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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I got this one since I have no use for pivot (which is only $22 more) and even people who ordered the perfect pixel still ended up with a stuck pixel occasionally, so with the way AW works with people I just went for the standard model.
The standard kit for development on UE4 at Epic is an i7/680/16gb ram so if you get an i7/670/8gb ram you will likely far exceed the specs of next gen consoles.
I'm really tempted to buy one, did you have to pay any customs charges?
The US has free trade with Korea, but if you live in Europe or anywhere else really you will have duty/custom charges.
I'm in Canada and I only paid $20.
The Bezels. they all share the same panel.
Naturally. Had to pay £34.
Typically SATA cables come with the motherboard. If your case doesn't have a 2.5" drive mount, you'll need a 3.5" tray adapter to mount that drive as one doesn't come bundled.
Are Gainward pretty well respected? I can't get a whiff of an EVGA 690 anywhere but I was offered Gainward in stock as an alternative so I bit. I figured as no-one's allowed to deviate from the 690 reference design it can't make too much of a difference, but it would be nice if it turns out they have a decent rep.
Wow that is super cheap, but are those brands reliable?
Here's a few mATX boards from Amazon in that range. What other features are you looking for (ports, slots, CF/SLI)?
ASRock Z77 Pro4-M - $124.99
Biostar TZ77MXE - $109.99
MSI Z77MA-G45 - $119.99
Asus P8Z77-M - $145.79
The Asus is most fully-featured, but the ASRock comes in a close second.
A lot of people like to use this one for them http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
With mATX overclocking, there is the ASUS Maximus Gene, and then everything else.
Because there are lots of better choices out there. Crucial M4, Samsung 830, Force GT.
OP. No one can predict the future.
I'd reduce the SSD size to get a better PSU for a system as nice as that. Seasonic X or Corsair AX.Any suggestions or advices to the following HTPC and gaming PC is welcomed:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Total: $1377.96 (Don't mind the price*)
- CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
- Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($195.99 @ NCIX US)
- Memory: G.Skill Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
- Hard Drive: Crucial M4 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($214.99 @ Newegg)
- Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($419.99 @ Newegg)
- Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($116.06 @ Newegg)
- Power Supply: Antec 550W ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Amazon)
- Optical Drive: Asus DVDE818A7T/BLK/B/GEN CD Reader, DVD Writer ($25.97 @ Newegg)
- Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
I've Already ordered the ASUS 670 TOP edition GPU and bought the case. It'll be mostly used on a 1080p LCD HDTV for couch gaming with a wireless 360 pad. I also have couple CM Hyper+ 212 laying around somewhere.
The SSD will be for games/OS/programs, while I have a 2TB external HDD for Media.
*Note: I don't live in the US or EU, but I can order some parts from Amazon (US/UK with fee based on weight) if needed (i.e. GPU), I'll try to look for the other parts in my country (found the TJ08B-E case). PC parts in my region are extremely overpriced with limited and short warranties. For example the build will cost me about $1700 compared to ~$1350 from US retailers.
Thanks. Did not even think to check Monoprice.
gutterboy44
Member
Do the new gen of GTX eg, GTX 670 still run into the same issues of massive power consumption when in SLI? I recall the OP with the 500 series cards mentioning that even in low GPU activities when running in SLI they just suck up a ton of power. That was a deterrent for every trying SLI, I don't want my PC to be a power hog.
had an asus card that was really good. started off flakely, but after a driver update ran like boss.
I still use it in my htpc, it was the older version of this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320074
I have no idea what you're talking about. The power consumption was linear.
'Wireless' and 'solid' do not belong in the same sentence together.
gutterboy44
Member
I could have sworn one of the "read before considering SLI" articles mentioned that all of the power saving features of a single GPU went out the window in the last gen. I know the power requirements at peak and required are linear but the just regular OS activities it drew more power than needed to both cards. Edit, as in you only needed one GPU running low for non GPU intensive things but it would always have both powered on when not needed. Something of that sort.
I can't find these PSUs in my country, I can order them from the US Amazon, but then I'd have to pay +$50 in shipping (depends on shipping weight) and customs fees. Also the warranty won't be useful, since It'd be really troublesome to RMA them with international shipping.
How about this PSU:
SilverStone Strider Gold 750W
Available in my country and Comes with 5 years warranty.
Costs about ~$190.
I guess that's why most of the reviews aren't great on any of the cards. It seems like either people have no problems or nothing but problems.
Krauser Kat
Member
Krauser Kat
Member
So a pc can last a long time the problem is can you deal with eventually running games at not the tip top of graphics. Much like a console, the GPU you buy will always have the same graphics power but games will look better but start to run worse over time.
LIke i bought a 4890 in 2009 it had been with me for awhile but did i ever imagine witcher 2 coming out and looking like that on my card no way. it runs at a playable rate but i get what i paid for back in 2009.
There's a reason why Tom's Hardware is not linked in the OP.
Sandisk should be the better drive. But it's not that much more for a full speed m4/830 SSD.
Jackben
bitch I'm taking calls.
I can weigh in and say that I definitely got a lot for the price with the 6870. It's got a mail-in rebate going right now as well.
Oh wow. I could've had 4 of these bad boys for what I paid for the U3011! That's an amazing price especially with the no dead pixel guarantee.
I look forward to others joining the elitist resolution camp
The Fractal Design XL looks really great for a quiet case, only problem is I see the power button is located on the top. Are there any cases that are optimised for quietness like this, but preferably have the power button inside the front door, so it can't be pressed accidentally?
Edvardelis
Member
I ended up using an Airport Express in bridge mode for a couple of years.
When I upgraded my computer, I made sure to get a motherboard that had wireless built in.
mkenyon said:
Sometimes you have no choice. My computer is maybe ten feet from where my cable connection comes in but due to the way my apartment is set up there's now way to run a cable without tripping over it.
I assume you like that one because of the # of HDDs it supports?
I´d just mod in another power button, all you need is a drill, a file, and 2 minutes of soldering.
Or even easier, just wire up the reset button (behind the door) to the power pins instead and don´t use the reset
How about under the carpet or along the wall? Zip ties + wall mounts = kind of ugly, but success. There's always a way, people just don't want to take the time to do it right.
Regarding silent case questions: Upcoming Bitfenix Ghost, Antec P280, Coolermaster Silencio 550, and Anidées AI-6B.
Regarding silent case questions: Upcoming Bitfenix Ghost, Antec P280, Coolermaster Silencio 550, and Anidées AI-6B.
Or that too.
Those cheap 2560x1440 monitors are making me drool, what kind of beast of a video card would you need to be able to play high settings on one of those though? And wouldn't it be a bitch to play older games that run at lower resolutions? (I suppose that can be fixed with scaling and patches for the games though)
KoruptData
Member
Im looking to upgrade my graphics card right now. Size is an issue. Right now according to Amazon.com, the card I have now is 8x2.5x10.5 and I have some room to spare. The card im looking at is 11.8x2.9x9.4. What do these numbers mean? Which one is the over all length?
Caesar III
Member
hm, you convinced me. Took a 670 superclocked instead. Now I can spent the saved 100 bucks on games in the summer sale ^^
Any specific reason why my second GPU seems to run like 10 - 15 C higher than my first GPU? As of right now in BF3, my first GTX 460 is at like 59 C and my second GPU is at 71 C, not scary temperatures but just wondering why. Same thing happens in Saint's Row The Third, haven't really noticed the issue in any other games lately. I'm just guessing that the game just picks one of the two video cards to stress more and in this case it's my second GPU?
Also, for whatever reason I had PhysX dedicated to my first GTX 460. Auto-reccomendation has placed it on my second GTX 460 now (temperature "issue" was the same with both PhsyX settings) and it seems like I can overclock higher than I was originally stonewalled at. I feel incredibly stupid right now. Also bumped my voltage up a bit, that may be another reason why it's overclocking a tad better.
Also, for whatever reason I had PhysX dedicated to my first GTX 460. Auto-reccomendation has placed it on my second GTX 460 now (temperature "issue" was the same with both PhsyX settings) and it seems like I can overclock higher than I was originally stonewalled at. I feel incredibly stupid right now. Also bumped my voltage up a bit, that may be another reason why it's overclocking a tad better.
You want a card with at least 2GB of VRAM, and you'd be looking at the higher end offerings from AMD/Nvidia. Single, high-end card can do it or mid-range cards in SLI/Xfire.
My single 570 is faring extremely well with the stuff I have installed right now until I get my 670 next week. (Diablo 3, Guild Wars 2 mainly)
HP_Wuvcraft
Banned
Installed the mobo Haz suggested to me at E3. BioStar TZ77A.
Same shit is happening, only less. Cold boot loop. Monitor going in and out.
Just now got a 'CMOS Fail'.
Same shit is happening, only less. Cold boot loop. Monitor going in and out.
Just now got a 'CMOS Fail'.
So, I've been looking to upgrade soon and I've only /just/ realised that z77 motherboards that I've been looking at (asus P8Z77-LX etc) have a 24 pin and 8 pin power connection. I was planning on keeping my PSU as it is a good quality (Corsair) 650W and I didn't see the need to upgrade. However, it only has a 24 pin and a 4 pin power connection.
Am I going to have to get a new PSU, or what? Are there adapters available (molex to ATX or whatever) or will it even matter, if it's the same voltage?
Am I going to have to get a new PSU, or what? Are there adapters available (molex to ATX or whatever) or will it even matter, if it's the same voltage?
Anyone buying the Korean IPS monitor(s), if you notice you didn't get the correct power plug and/or the provided power plug gets hot, get this one from ebay for $23. I thought I had received a bad Crossover 27Q monitor and was about to send it back. Before then, on a forum recommendation, I tried this ebay power plug and the monitor is working again.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280673899776?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280673899776?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
My Corsair TX 650 V2 arrived today as a replacement for the buggered OCZ 750 ZT.
Its louder than the OCZ but I can live with it. Really missed the modular cables when I was plugging everything back in.
Will save up for a nice mATX case (come on BitFenix!) and AX series PSU for my next upgrade cycle.
Its louder than the OCZ but I can live with it. Really missed the modular cables when I was plugging everything back in.
Will save up for a nice mATX case (come on BitFenix!) and AX series PSU for my next upgrade cycle.
I missed this one, but it really depends on your resolution and how the future console tech will pan out.
For the next week or two I am still on my system that I built in 2009 for 500 bucks. It still has a dual core AMD chip and a HD4870.
Now granted the monitor I actually play games on is only 1440X900, I can still play The Witcher II on High above 30FPS and pretty much any console port on high or close to max settings (Skyrim runs at about 45 fps on this one). Really the only thing keeping me from playing Battlefield 3 on this thing is the dual core CPU.
4 years of PC gaming for the price of a launch PS3 is a damn good deal in my book. My games STILL look better than the console versions as well. You can make even a modest gaming PC last years if you do not need to be bleeding edge.
Mine has a 24-pin and a 4-pin and it works fine on my Asus P8Z77-V. You just put the 4-pin one in at one end of the 8-pin connector.
Just don't plan on overclocking.
There should be an additional 4 pin plug somewhere that you can use. 8 pin has been standard for a long time.
Cool, thanks. I'm assuming 4pin to 8pin adapters are pointless?
Sanky Panky
Banned
If you guys had a choice for gaming, would you go for that 2560x1440 monitor or go for a cheaper smaller 120hz monitor?
I do some trading so I could see some value in having that large monitor as part of my set-up, but I want to use it also for gaming.
I do some trading so I could see some value in having that large monitor as part of my set-up, but I want to use it also for gaming.
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