It doesn't tell you anything about any of the components. CPU/GPU.
Much much better.
If you don't have a brand preference then the 7970's are fine. They are very good cards and the 3GB of memory might help you down the line.
What system specs are you coming from?
If I were buying I'd go with a mix of parts from the OP and the $1,700 build there.
Missed it.
Ok, thanks. I'm new to pc-building so why do I need a new motherboard exactly?
You need a motherboard that supports an intel CPU. There's no where you can really go with your current one, so it's totally necessary if you want to upgrade.
Max what? There's no 'customize' anywhere. Just going off what they list in specs, its not that great, though it's all pretty vague.
The thing about ivy/sb is that you don't need to control every aspect of the OC. You just need good phase VRM. You only adjust the multiplier and core voltage (or offset).Yeah i'm slowly building it. I bought a HAF 932 thinking on watercooling almost a year ago. I also didn't jump on ivy bridge but rather got a 2700k instead even if i'm gonna use a z77 chipset motherboard, since the Ivy bridge processors have that overheating problem due to thermal material and i'm just not ready to split the chip from the processor and re-paste it.
My intention is to try and achieve a good overclock. My first intention was to get a h100 corsair cooler. Well, you may be able to help me. I'd get a V gene but i'm planning on getting a second 5850 pretty cheap (like 70€to CF (I know they arent the best scaling cards, but i've seen good enough results)... And I also have a PCI device that wouldn't fit. So I have to choose.
I want a motherboard with good OC capabilities and they pretty much say that the ROG are pretty beasty and control every element of the overclock very well.
So yeah, dilemma. I'm still on time to step back to a non-z77 chipset.... but Maybe ivy bridge will prove to be worthwhile later on? What should I do???
Thanks! Everything I could find listed a P67 as the chipset, so I was assuming something totally different.
erformance ratio. I'm definitely considering dropping the 2TB HDD to a 1TB for example. In terms of the overall power of the machine though, I'm rather unwilling to suffer any marked reduction. Is the PSU too much? Is the heatsink really necessary (remembering that I'd like to fiddle with light OCing probably)?OEM means you are getting barebones. OEM Windows is just a disc and code, and only for one machine. OEM DVD means its just the DVD Burner. No box, no cables. Same with HDD. Cables come with your motherboard.I wanna make a PC! I'd love some advice, especially from anyone up to speed with the UK market.
I've spent a while getting my feet wet in introductory reading/videos etc. and, last night, I felt it was time I tried a first pass at a build. I'm basing it largely on the 'Excellent' PC build in the OP. I've struggled to find many of the components exactly as listed on UK websites, but I'll let that speak for itself when I get to the list.
First, a few of those questions in the OP -
Budget: ~£800, UK
Main Use: Gaming with pretty graphics for a few years; video/audio capture (direct from PC and perhaps sometimes console); Dolphin emulation; maaaaybe some light, tiny audience live streaming..?
Monitor Resolution: Hm.. current crappy monitor is 1680x1050. I'll be upgrading it eventually (though not necessarily in terms of resolution) and going dual monitor as soon as I can.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Tribes: Ascend, Guild Wars 2, FFXIV.
When will you build?: Would ideally like to purchase all parts on the 25th June.
Will you be overclocking?: I'm a complete beginner and even without any clocking I'm sure I'll be blown away by a 'modern' rig's output but, sure, I'm bound to give OCing a go. Is it simple enough to push a 3.4 to 4.0?
Build v1.0
(CPU) -- Intel Core i5-3570K, S1155, 3.4GHz, 6MB --- £180
(MB) -- Asus P8Z77-V LX, S1155, Intel Z77, DDR3, ATX --- £92
(GPU) -- Asus GeForce, GTX560Ti 448 Cores, 732MHz, 1GB, PCI-E, HDMI --- £190
(HEATSINK) -- Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus --- £30
(HDD) -- Seagate 2TB Barracuda, SATA, 6Gb/s, 64MB, 7200RPM --- £86
(PSU) -- Corsair Memory TX750 V2 750W ATX Enthusiast --- £80
(CASE) -- Fractal R3, Mid-Tower, USB 3.0 --- £69
(RAM) -- Whatever 2x4GB DDR3 w/ appropriate voltage I find. Will check to ensure compatibility of this after bigger decisions are made. ~£45
(DVD -- Whatever DVD-based optical drive I can find nearer to purchase date. Again, will check compatibility later. ~£15
(OS) -- Windows 7 Home Premium, SP1, 64-bit (OEM) --- £70
TOTAL (with -£40 online offer) = £820-ish
Questions that I have then (surely there'll be more to come as I get closer to pulling the trigger),
* I've ran across the term 'OEM' a few times. I think I gather what it refers to and what restrictions are in place for stuff to be sold as OEM, but is there anything else I should be wary of? The OEM Windows7 for example, all I need is the disc and a reg-code right? Manuals and packaging and etc aren't needed and there're no cables to miss. Similarly, I've seen a nice-looking OEM optical drive. If I were to buy that, do I need to carefully check fineprint to see if it's missing any proprietary cables or are optical drive cables standardised (or even included with something like the motherboard/PSU)?
* Reading some of the reviews of the Cooler Master 212+, many were saying that it's recommended to apply your own thermal paste. I've noticed that the paste is pretty dirt cheap but how does GAF feel about that advice? Does the 212+ come with its own paste? Is it pre-applied? Is removing and applying the paste the sort of crapshoot gamble that a complete beginner with no access to proper tools would be better off steering clear of?
* The motherboard! The one in the list above was chosen based on two things: a recommendation of Asus boards, coupled with the one listed in the OP (I think it was an 'LK' model). I can't an LK anywhere on the UK stores. To be honest the motherboard names are all so similar and yet distinctive in price that I'm finding them maddening. How is the one I've chosen (a Google of reviews for the specific model came up short). Is motherboard choice a thing I should put a lot of effort into? Is there a 'great choice' option that sits around or slightly above the pricepoint of the one listed? The one I've picked - and motherboard-knowledge in general - is the big unknown to me in this build.
* The case! Is the R3 complete overkill? I don't really care about prettiness. Just functionality and ease of build. This leads me on to the next question:
* Is any of the build overkill? I'm a little over budget on the build and I'm wondering if anything could be toned down for its price
* Is there any obvious reason I should be getting one of the other Windows7 versions?
* Plus the usual expert stuff that stands out like a sore thumb to you all (this is where you tell me that the video card I've chosen is actually for a laptop or that the motherboard won't fit in the case I've listed or that the OS is for an existing owner.)
Apologies if any of the above questions are outright dumb - I'm very much new to this stuff. Ignore the dumb bits as necessary and I'll understand that it doesn't warrant worrying about.
Advice and thoughts welcome on anything, especially considerations that I've plain old missed. Again, especially if it pertains to any particular quirks within the UK market.
Oh and yeah, sorry for the mammoth post! I write a lot when I get nervous and I get nervous a lot when I prepare to blow the better part of a grand on what amounts to a build-it-yourself toy.
I wanna make a PC! I'd love some advice, especially from anyone up to speed with the UK market.
I've spent a while getting my feet wet in introductory reading/videos etc. and, last night, I felt it was time I tried a first pass at a build. I'm basing it largely on the 'Excellent' PC build in the OP. I've struggled to find many of the components exactly as listed on UK websites, but I'll let that speak for itself when I get to the list.
First, a few of those questions in the OP -
Budget: ~£800, UK
Main Use: Gaming with pretty graphics for a few years; video/audio capture (direct from PC and perhaps sometimes console); Dolphin emulation; maaaaybe some light, tiny audience live streaming..?
Monitor Resolution: Hm.. current crappy monitor is 1680x1050. I'll be upgrading it eventually (though not necessarily in terms of resolution) and going dual monitor as soon as I can.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Tribes: Ascend, Guild Wars 2, FFXIV.
When will you build?: Would ideally like to purchase all parts on the 25th June.
Will you be overclocking?: I'm a complete beginner and even without any clocking I'm sure I'll be blown away by a 'modern' rig's output but, sure, I'm bound to give OCing a go. Is it simple enough to push a 3.4 to 4.0?
Build v1.0
(CPU) -- Intel Core i5-3570K, S1155, 3.4GHz, 6MB --- £180
(MB) -- Asus P8Z77-V LX, S1155, Intel Z77, DDR3, ATX --- £92
(GPU) -- Asus GeForce, GTX560Ti 448 Cores, 732MHz, 1GB, PCI-E, HDMI --- £190
(HEATSINK) -- Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus --- £30
(HDD) -- Seagate 2TB Barracuda, SATA, 6Gb/s, 64MB, 7200RPM --- £86
(PSU) -- Corsair Memory TX750 V2 750W ATX Enthusiast --- £80
(CASE) -- Fractal R3, Mid-Tower, USB 3.0 --- £69
(RAM) -- Whatever 2x4GB DDR3 w/ appropriate voltage I find. Will check to ensure compatibility of this after bigger decisions are made. ~£45
(DVD -- Whatever DVD-based optical drive I can find nearer to purchase date. Again, will check compatibility later. ~£15
(OS) -- Windows 7 Home Premium, SP1, 64-bit (OEM) --- £70
TOTAL (with -£40 online offer) = £820-ish
Questions that I have then (surely there'll be more to come as I get closer to pulling the trigger),
* I've ran across the term 'OEM' a few times. I think I gather what it refers to and what restrictions are in place for stuff to be sold as OEM, but is there anything else I should be wary of? The OEM Windows7 for example, all I need is the disc and a reg-code right? Manuals and packaging and etc aren't needed and there're no cables to miss. Similarly, I've seen a nice-looking OEM optical drive. If I were to buy that, do I need to carefully check fineprint to see if it's missing any proprietary cables or are optical drive cables standardised (or even included with something like the motherboard/PSU)?
* Reading some of the reviews of the Cooler Master 212+, many were saying that it's recommended to apply your own thermal paste. I've noticed that the paste is pretty dirt cheap but how does GAF feel about that advice? Does the 212+ come with its own paste? Is it pre-applied? Is removing and applying the paste the sort of crapshoot gamble that a complete beginner with no access to proper tools would be better off steering clear of?
* The motherboard! The one in the list above was chosen based on two things: a recommendation of Asus boards, coupled with the one listed in the OP (I think it was an 'LK' model). I can't an LK anywhere on the UK stores. To be honest the motherboard names are all so similar and yet distinctive in price that I'm finding them maddening. How is the one I've chosen (a Google of reviews for the specific model came up short). Is motherboard choice a thing I should put a lot of effort into? Is there a 'great choice' option that sits around or slightly above the pricepoint of the one listed? The one I've picked - and motherboard-knowledge in general - is the big unknown to me in this build.
* The case! Is the R3 complete overkill? I don't really care about prettiness. Just functionality and ease of build. This leads me on to the next question:
* Is any of the build overkill? I'm a little over budget on the build and I'm wondering if anything could be toned down for its price
* Is there any obvious reason I should be getting one of the other Windows7 versions?
* Plus the usual expert stuff that stands out like a sore thumb to you all (this is where you tell me that the video card I've chosen is actually for a laptop or that the motherboard won't fit in the case I've listed or that the OS is for an existing owner.)
Apologies if any of the above questions are outright dumb - I'm very much new to this stuff. Ignore the dumb bits as necessary and I'll understand that it doesn't warrant worrying about.
Advice and thoughts welcome on anything, especially considerations that I've plain old missed. Again, especially if it pertains to any particular quirks within the UK market.
Oh and yeah, sorry for the mammoth post! I write a lot when I get nervous and I get nervous a lot when I prepare to blow the better part of a grand on what amounts to a build-it-yourself toy.
Nothing out there for socket 775 really. Needs a mobo/cpu/RAM upgrade to go anywhere.
Do you:
The former doesn't really matter unless you want to max out AA and run at resolutions higher than 1080p. The latter doesn't matter at all.
I understand, much appreciated guys. I'll probably check back in a week or so when I have my plans finalized.
Might be. Though it's not apples to apples, I could swap out my 690 and put it in the P67 Sabertooth and see the difference in performance if you don't mind waiting a day or two.
Might be. Though it's not apples to apples, I could swap out my 690 and put it in the P67 Sabertooth and see the difference in performance if you don't mind waiting a day or two.
*EDIT* Nevermind!
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/626059-post25.html
Welp, that answers my question. Perfect chart too as that is my resolution. Thanks pal. Seems to be a different story for 1920x1200:
Still haven't OC'd the 690, although tbh I'm not really seeing a need to. At 120hz sure, since I need to get as close to 120fps as possible. But at 60hz? I'm already getting 60 fps in all of my games so it wouldn't help me. It would be more for benchmarking.
I also love the Frame Target feature in Precision X. I have found out over the previous days that SLI performance in BF3 MP is horrible. Many think it is a result of one of the recent patches by DICE. This doesn't occur in the SP, just MP. Utilization jumps everywhere resulting in a very choppy experience. I have read this on numerous forums where people are complaining with 600 series cards. Being able to limit the fps to 60 really helps in this area since the GPUs aren't bouncing all over the place when I'm playing.
