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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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O

Odrion

Banned
Hey guys.

I had the problem of a overheating CPU. It's a AMD Phenom II 965 3.4 Ghz. And it's been running at 60-70C during PC games. The "Danger Temp" as at 63C. Running on stock. I bought a new heat sink (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118047), and with that I redid the thermal paste.

It's still gets up to 65C during Skyrim. So I don't know anymore.

Also, the CPU and Core have different temperature readings. The Core is usually 10 degrees lower than the CPU. Is the core more important? Is this a sign of bad temperature readings?

Thanks.
 
·

·feist·

Member
Odrion said:
Hey guys.

I had the problem of a overheating CPU. It's a AMD Phenom II 965 3.4 Ghz. And it's been running at 60-70C during PC games. The "Danger Temp" as at 63C. Running on stock. I bought a new heat sink (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118047), and with that I redid the thermal paste.

It's still gets up to 65C during Skyrim. So I don't know anymore.

Also, the CPU and Core have different temperature readings. The Core is usually 10 degrees lower than the CPU. Is the core more important? Is this a sign of bad temperature readings?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Your HSF is ill-suited to that type of CPU, and the temps are high for stock. Get something better (like one of these, for cheap), and make sure to have good airflow in your case. CPU and core are always different for AMD, and Intel. AMD's max temp is ~62c.
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
Yeah, that Zalman is a very, very old cooler and isn't suited for new CPUs at all. It struggled to cool my old E6600. I didn't really know much about PC components at the time and the PC shop owner where I got my stuff kind of duped me into getting it. >_<
 
K

Karmum

Banned
Any ideas when perhaps prices for an EVGA GTX 460 may go down? If I find one (preferably new) for $140 or less I'm buying it.
 
O

Odrion

Banned
TheExodu5 said:
Yeah, that Zalman is a very, very old cooler and isn't suited for new CPUs at all. It struggled to cool my old E6600. I didn't really know much about PC components at the time and the PC shop owner where I got my stuff kind of duped me into getting it. >_<
Click to expand...
Wow. Yeah, same here.

fuckfuck. >;\
 
A

Arkaerial

Unconfirmed Member
Branson said:
-_-. You guys are killing me. I dont feel like waiting any longer haha. I finally have enough to get this setup and now its out of date. Great. First world problems and all that...
Click to expand...

Well I would say grab what you want since there is always something better just around the corner.
 
G

Glix

Member
Glix said:
CPU - Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) - $220

MoBo - ASRock P67 EXTREME4 GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX - $150

GPU - XFX Double D HD-695X-CDFC Radeon HD 6950 2GB - $250 (after $30 mail-in)

RAM - G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) - $44

Case - COOLER MASTER HAF 912 - $50 (after $10 mail-on)

Power - Antec BP550 Plus 550W- $70

Heatsink - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 - $30

Monitor - SAMSUNG S23A300B High Glossy Black 23" 5ms Full HD LED - $150
Click to expand...

There were some last minute changes in:

GPU - MSI Frozor III 2 GB R6950 - 300 (280 after mail-in)

RAM - 16 GB Corasair 1600 - $75

Case - Haf 922 - $100

I just finished getting Windows 7 installed and I couldn't be happier. I installed Skyrim real quick, and even though the part I was on wasn't blowing me away graphically, I couldn't believe how incredible it looked and how smooth it was. I'm super psyched about this, doubt I'm gonna sleep at all.
 
A

aznpxdd

Member
Slightly off-topic, but what are the best budget All-In-One (iMac like) PC currently? I'm looking to clean up all the messy cables at my office and looking to pick 3 up for the employees. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
aznpxdd said:
Slightly off-topic, but what are the best budget All-In-One (iMac like) PC currently? I'm looking to clean up all the messy cables at my office and looking to pick 3 up for the employees. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
I don't know of any. Too many downsides especially for a business imo. Just get some cable ties.
My 2cents. Should also list what part of the world you are in.
 
P

pseudocaesar

Member
I have a problem, hopefully someone can help me out. I built a PC for a friend, with an i5 2500k and P8P67 pro mobo. It worked fine for a few weeks, then all of a sudden lost power. Since then it would not turn back on. So after several months of warranty battles, they determined it was my mobo which I returned, and they "replaced" with another faulty one, so i returned the CPU and Mobo aswell, and they shipped back the same CPU and what they say is a new mobo. However, it still doesnt work. They (PCcasegear, where I bought everything), said they tested the CPU and it worked, so if it isnt the CPU, and its a new mobo... why isnt it booting up? All of the fans start up, ie case, GPU fans, CPU cooler fan etc, but it just doesnt boot. The CPU Led on the mobo is continuously flashing aswell. Any ideas on what might be the cause? I have a 700W PSU in there, so it shouldnt be power..
 
T

TGMIII

Member
Quick question for those of you who have overclocked your 2500K. With a noctua nh-d14 I get around 25-30c idle on a normal clock and anywhere from 40-60 on load. What's the recommended overclock and what temps should I be expecting?
 
A

AwesomeSauce

MagsMoonshine
scogoth said:
Where do you live? Alaska? My CPU is 25c when it's turned off.
Click to expand...

I live in SoCal and 25c +/- is what HWmonitor tells me while playing Skyrim.

Also i disabled 2 cores on my Phenom II to hit 4.0ghz because at all 6 cores the system is unstable.

This is after a 30min run of Skyrim. *the max temp that shows is what i average while in-game, so don't pay attention to the current value and the lowest value.
Afc8zl.jpg
 
G

gutterboy44

Member
Had to delete my planned build wishlist on newegg today :( Wedding budget gets the priority. I just keep telling myself that I will be able to get the new i5 and HDD prices will be lower by the time I get to build my new rig. Oh well, going to get a few new case fans and overclock my old 4850.
 
C

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
awwyeahgurrl said:
Quick question for those of you who have overclocked your 2500K. With a noctua nh-d14 I get around 25-30c idle on a normal clock and anywhere from 40-60 on load. What's the recommended overclock and what temps should I be expecting?
Click to expand...

On Intel Burn Test stock settings (since I have results right here) I get these temps on load at 1.34v, 4.5GHz:

C0: 46C
C1: 55C
C2: 51C
C3: 46C

Idle temps are in the mid 20s I think, room temp was probably in the 70s (F).

C1 and C2 are crappy. Nothing I can do about that. Got results like that before, tried reseating it with new thermal compound, and it didn't do anything.
 
S

Sethos

Banned
mkenyon said:
The reason why you get tears above 60FPS is *because* the monitors are only 60hz. The whole point of the 120hz is you don't have to enable vysnc to get smooth looking frames or get the terrible input lag because of it.

120hz is the solution to all of this.
Click to expand...

I'm not talking about tears, talking about smooth gaming, as in FPS. I'm running D3DOverider to lock my games at 60FPS, as that gives me the best power to quality ratio along with smoothness. Several games have been a problem uncapped, especially STALKER with certain texture mods become unplayable if it's allowed beyond 60FPS to wreck havoc with the Vram. I don't want 120FPS, I don't need it. I don't want my GPU to pump out 120 pictures a second either as that leaves no overhead and just causes unnecessary strain and heat.

Actual FPS caps don't seem to work very well for all games, some it doesn't work at all. I'd rather rely on Vsync.

So I'll ask again, what's the best 24" gaming monitor out there, colours are important too, that isn't 120hz
 
L

lastscapegoat

Neo Member
Hey guys. I'm building Hazard's Enthusiast build with the i7 2600k and a HD7970 whenever I can find them in stock on Newegg.

My question is whether or not it would be worth it to grab the Antec HCP-1200w power supply, with an eye towards doing HD7970 in Crossfire when I can afford a second card and 2560x1600 monitor later this year. My biggest concern is that I might see a CPU bottleneck.
 
S

Smokey

Member
lastscapegoat said:
Hey guys. I'm building Hazard's Enthusiast build with the i7 2600k and a HD7970 whenever I can find them in stock on Newegg.

My question is whether or not it would be worth it to grab the Antec HCP-1200w power supply, with an eye towards doing HD7970 in Crossfire when I can afford a second card and 2560x1600 monitor later this year. My biggest concern is that I might see a CPU bottleneck.
Click to expand...


You will not need a 1200 PSU with 2x 7970s. They are pretty power efficient. You would be fine with a 850w PSU.
 
R

RS4-

Member
awwyeahgurrl said:
Quick question for those of you who have overclocked your 2500K. With a noctua nh-d14 I get around 25-30c idle on a normal clock and anywhere from 40-60 on load. What's the recommended overclock and what temps should I be expecting?
Click to expand...

On my 2600k I do 4.5 at stock voltage (something like 1.28?) and I average around mid 50 to low 60s.

Recommended OC is just a matter of what you do with your PC. I personally didn't need or care about the difference between a 4.5 and 5.0, especially with the "huge" change in voltage.

So I can imagine that you can easily do 4.4-5 on stock voltage.
 
B

Beer Monkey

Member
Sanity check. A friend is building a new 2500k-based , SLI-upgradable system for SWTOR (primarily, and eventually other gaming). She was going to get 16GB of RAM and a 1GB video card. I said to get 8GB of RAM and a 2GB video card. I said I didn't think SWTOR would ever use >8GB of RAM, and that even if SWTOR never needed >1GB of VRAM that other games do and will. Not to mention that if she ever does SLI your VRAM per card basically gets cut in half.

How's my thinking?
 
F

FoolsRun

Member
Beer Monkey said:
Sanity check. A friend is building a new 2500k-based , SLI-upgradable system for SWTOR (primarily, and eventually other gaming). She was going to get 16GB of RAM and a 1GB video card. I said to get 8GB of RAM and a 2GB video card. I said I didn't think SWTOR would ever use >8GB of RAM, and that even if SWTOR never needed >1GB of VRAM that other games do and will. Not to mention that if she ever does SLI your VRAM per card basically gets cut in half.

How's my thinking?
Click to expand...
Before building a new Windows 7 system last fall, I rarely consumed above 2.5 GB on my previous Vista build. I have 8GB today and I don't expect to need more than that during my PC's lifetime.

Depending on the types of games you play and the resolution of your monitor, I think you're far more likely to take advantage of a 2GB video card than you are 16GB of RAM, at least for gaming. Rage consumed all the memory of my 1.2GB GTX 570 in a few outdoor areas, leading to texture pop-in if I turned 180 degrees.
 
C

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Beer Monkey said:
Sanity check. A friend is building a new 2500k-based , SLI-upgradable system for SWTOR (primarily, and eventually other gaming). She was going to get 16GB of RAM and a 1GB video card. I said to get 8GB of RAM and a 2GB video card. I said I didn't think SWTOR would ever use >8GB of RAM, and that even if SWTOR never needed >1GB of VRAM that other games do and will. Not to mention that if she ever does SLI your VRAM per card basically gets cut in half.

How's my thinking?
Click to expand...

I agree, you're right in your thinking on both counts. I think people get kind of blinded on the RAM issue because of what's available, pricing, and what's recommended. For somebody building a gaming PC, 8GB should last for the lifetime of that PC. 8GB isn't recommended as a baseline, it's recommended because it will last, and it's a good value right now.

By the time a nice PC built right now is going to be significantly upgraded/replaced, DDR4 will be making it's way in as the standard (unless you're the type that upgrades when pretty much every new GPU or CPU launches).
 
E

El_Victor

Member
I bought my last PC in 2005, and after 7 years of duty I decided it's time for the poor thing to retire. I'm actually flabbergasted it hasn't died yet, considering the fan on the power supply has not been running for the last 2 years. I've been waiting for it to die at any time, backing up whatever important thing I do, but it refuses to let go.

So anyway, based on this thread, and some googling, I ended up with the following PC:


  • ASRock Z68 Extreme3 GEN 3 ASRock Z68 Extreme3 GEN
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 560Ti 448 Core FTW EVGA GeForce GTX 560Ti 448 Core FTW
  • Intel Core i5 2500K 3,3GHz Intel Core i5 2500K 3,3GHz
  • Corsair 8GB (2x4096MB) CL9 1600Mhz VENGEANCE Corsair 8GB (2x4096MB) CL9 1600Mhz VENGEANCE
  • Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
  • Fractal Design Arc Svart Fractal Design Arc Svart
  • Corsair TX 750W M 80+ Bronze Modulär Corsair TX 750W M 80+ Bronze Modulär
  • Samsung SH-222AB, SATA Svart OEM Samsung SH-222AB, SATA Svart OEM
  • INTEL 320 Serie SSD 120GB SATA II 2.5inc

I removed the prices since they were in SEK anyway and probably wouldn't make sense to much of you, but it's slightly below 1 400 U.S. dollars. Sweden is a pricey place when it comes to building PC's I guess. There's some Swedish in the descriptions above, too, if you're wondering what the gibberish is all about.

I didn't include a harddrive since I figured I could use my old ones, but included a SSD for the OS and what not.

I'm also contemplating changing the GPU to an GTX 580, which would raise the praise with approximately 145$.

Anyway, how does it look? Any fatal flaws I should address before ordering?
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
For the 300R, they took a page from Fractal's book so you can offset the top mounted Rad. Very good design choice. Basically looks like an Arc Mini but *slightly* larger.
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
Holy shit at the 550D. We're getting close to a winner! Here's to hoping they bring out a smaller version in the future.

That 300R looks great for the money as well. I like the styling a lot more than the 400R.
 
·

·feist·

Member
Also, 550D vents, but done with an eye on minimum material for max profit. Corsair is just adding Fractal Design to their growing list of influences along with Cooler Master, Lian Li, Antec, and others. It is what it is.

Not fond of their pricing strategy, though. One of the reasons I've never recommended the 650D.

Waiting on hands on time with the 300R. As is, it's too close to the likes of the 690 II, and Arc.
 
S

Sethos

Banned
Thinking of getting a Dell U3011, yay or nay? any better 30" alternatives?

Hearing the HP ZR30w might be superior, especially when it comes to gaming?
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
·feist·;34165179 said:
Waiting on hands on time with the 300R. As is, it's too close to the likes of the 690 II, and Arc.
Click to expand...
I'd imagine I'll probably buy one to test it out. I'm a whore for Fractal and Corsair as of late.
 
S

Smokey

Member
So with the 550D...where the hell does the 500r fall in?

This is so lame. I'm motherboardless due to the RMA. Seriously trying to resist the temptation of going out and getting a Z68 motherboard and calling it a day.
 
P

Parl

Member
chaosblade said:
Great deal on that 5850 then, go for it.

And on the CPU front, well, I guess that's pretty much up to you and your friend. The 2120 will be a huge upgrade from that old CPU, but as a dual core it's also not a very forward-compatible buy.

If budget is an issue now, you may as well go for the 2120, but you'll save money in the long run and not miss out on much performance by getting Sandy Bridge now. If OCing is involved, a 2500k is anticipated to last at least 4 years or so before it starts bottlenecking. Given that he's still using that clunker from 2005-2006, he doesn't seem to be much of an upgrader, so the better CPU might be a better option for that reason.

Also depends on what games he plays. For big, intensive games a better CPU is going to be an improvement right off the bat. If he mostly plays smaller or less intensive stuff it wouldn't hurt to upgrade down the line.

Also keep in mind CPU prices don't usually drop too much, even after they've been replaced. High end Ivy Bridge CPUs will probably cost as much 2 years from now as they will at launch, if not a bit more.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the advice. Budget isn't a concern, the only concern is long-term value for money, and he's going to be a more frequent upgrader now, probably upgrading in 2 years or whenever it makes sense to. With that in mind, here's 2 tentative builds I've come up with:

CPU: i5-2500K - £167.99
Mobo: Gigabyte P67A-D3-B3 / ASUS P8Z68-V LX / Gigabyte Z68AP-D3 - £73.99 / £78.99 / £79.99
RAM: Corsair 2x 2GB Vengance 1600MHz - £23.01
GFX - ASUS HD5850 1GB - £90
Case - Undecided
HDD - WD5000AAKX - £65.99
PSU - Corsair CX500 - £44.98
DVD - Samsung DVD+-RW
Total: £477.94 - £483.94 (ex. case, more if higher priced mobo selected)

Or the same but with...
CPU: i3-2120 - £95.38
Mobo: Asus P8H61-M LE/USB3 - £48.99
PSU: Corsair CX430 - £35
Total: £380.33 (ex. case)

I'm not really clued up on motherboards, so I don't know if I'm being tight by picking out those 3. The MSI Z68A-G43 in Hazaro's 'Enhanced' build costs £89.43 - what are the advantages of that mobo? And would that SATAIII work on the mobo I selected in the i3-2120 build?

Top build would probably upgrade graphics in a couple of years, bottom would be cpu/mobo/graphics probably, and sell the parts. What are you thoughts on the choice between these configurations, and also what could do with being changed?
 
L

Lionel Mandrake

Member
I'm trying to remove my old graphics card right now. Unhooking from the motherboard seems easy enough, but it seems lodged into the back of the case, and I just can't seem to get it out. There's no screw or latch or anything that I can see.

A5hdW.jpg


Any ideas?
 
S

shahkur

Member
Like a fool, I made a whole thread just to ask this and was diverted here by the fine fellows at GAF.

I figured I'd ask Gaf since I aint exactly the most knowledgable on PCs to choose one myself. So, here goes. I really would like recommendations for a 32" HDTV that can be used as both a TV for console gaming as well as a monitor for the computer. I'm willing to spend up to £4-500 for it.

As for the tower/computer, it has to have atleast 8GB RAM and the Hard Drive at least 500GB. Basically a computer that can handle making music on software such as Fruity Loops and Pro Tools without any problems (e.g. Tearing/Slowdown like my current PC).

Oh, and an M-Audio Interface Sound Card for the music producing.

So, a £1000/$1500 spending limit with:

32" HDTV for both computer/games consoles
Computer/Tower with 8GB RAM and the Hard Drive at least 500GB.
M-Audio Interface Sound Card

I AM willing to build it up myself I suppose as its mainly for music producing and NOT gaming it should not require a high end graphics card.

Vik Vaughn pointed me towards THIS

Just for the record, I am based in the UK.

I hope I'm not asking for much, and it is possible within budget. I thank you all for the help in advance.
 
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