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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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xSL4INx

Member
PC GAF, I'm building my first computer and I've got a few parts for my PC already. I've got my power supply, harddrive, DVD drive and processor (AMD X4 Phenom II 955 Black Edition) and graphics card picked out (GTX 560). However, my dilemma is that I need help picking a motherboard and I'm needing some recommendations. Any help is appreciated!
 

Parl

Member
Haz doesnt even recommend HDDs right now cause of the prices.
Ah, okay. So he's basically just left in the Western Digital for the budget build because hard drive prices are fluctuating too much atm?

I think we might be going with the HD103SJ anyway as it's 'only' £24 more than the cheaper Western Digital 500GB. Thanks.
 

Velti

Neo Member
I'm not saavy or dedicated enough to build, but I was hoping you guys could give me some shopping tips.

Basically, I'd like to buy a desktop tower for general use, gaming (Portal 2, reduced Skyrim mebbe), and 2D graphics work. (Corel, Photoshop, large images) It'd be cool if I could run Skype, Chrome, and Corel at the same time, etc.

Any suggestions on the sort of specs I should be aiming for? How does this look?
 

creid

Member
For power supply, I'm deciding between an Antec TruePower (650W, 80% efficiency) and Seasonic X (560W, 90% efficiency, $20 more expensive.) I don't understand well enough how PC power supplies work - does the 90% efficiency mean I will be drawing less power from the wall, or is it irrelevant? I'm drawing an awful lot of power nearby for my TV & receiver etc, so I want to keep power usage for the machine down, and I've already finalized everything but the power supply. Peak usage for the machine is only going to be around 400W.
 

Geeker

Member
Hi guys hopefully someone can help me with my problem.

I was originally looking for a laptop that could handle a game like diablo 3 very well since im moving around a lot and cant drag with my a normal desktop machine. I then realized that a small formu factor pc might be a better choice for my requirements as you get more bang for your bucks and i still have a functional laptop.

In any case I looked at mITX finished computers from cyberpowerpc and ibuypower like these ones.

http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/system/LAN_Party_EVO_Mini/
http://www.ibuypower.com/Store/LAN_Warrior_II-67

They obviously charge a lot to build the computer for you so I did some googling to find alternatives and this guy on reddit recently made a build.

http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/related/o9e8a/build_complete_budget_600_matx_build/

Type Item Price
CPU AMD Phenom II X4 970 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor $137.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-880GMA-USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard $99.99 @ NCIX US
Memory Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory $35.99 @ Newegg
Video Card HIS Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card $167.55 @ Newegg
Case Inwin Dragon Slayer MicroATX Mini Tower Case $64.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply OCZ 500W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply $44.99 @ NCIX US

Total
Prices include shipping and discounts when available. $551.50
Generated 2012-01-09 12:00 EST-0500

It is missing cooling and hdd option, i guess ssd + hdd is the way to go?

Does anyone have experience with these kind of machines and could this setup run diablo 3, starcraft 2 etc in 1080p on high with a 30+ frame rate?

All comments appreciated!
 

Branson

Member
Why are you still trying to buy a GTX 580? Really dude? :p

Because I want a top of the line nvidia card. I said a few times already that I don't want AMD. Plus i'm going to have some financial changes this year and I need to buy right now, this month, what other card, from nvidia, would be better?
 

Hawk269

Member
I will be getting my SSD on Friday and need some help on how to install it into my existing rig.

I currently have 2 1 TB HDD's, with the C:/ drive having windows on it. Should I:

1.) Format my E:\ HDD first
2.) Format my C:\ drive 2nd
3.) Power down the system
4.) Install the SSD
5.) Reboot system

And that is where I am not sure or even if steps 1-5 are accurate. I would assume that when it boots it boots to the motherboard menu and i have to tell it to use the SSD as the main drive??? Then install windows to the SSD?

Thanks. I built this rig from the ground up, but having to add a new main c:\ drive is confusing me so any help would be appreciated.
 

creid

Member
For power supply, I'm deciding between an Antec TruePower (650W, 80% efficiency) and Seasonic X (560W, 90% efficiency, $20 more expensive.) I don't understand well enough how PC power supplies work - does the 90% efficiency mean I will be drawing less power from the wall, or is it irrelevant? I'm drawing an awful lot of power nearby for my TV & receiver etc, so I want to keep power usage for the machine down, and I've already finalized everything but the power supply. Peak usage for the machine is only going to be around 400W.

If I'm reading this right: if my PC needs 400W at the time, the 80% efficient PSU would pull 500W from the wall, and the 90% efficient one would pull 444W from the wall? So a 560W 90% efficient PSU is appropriate if my machine is never going to need more than 504W, and if I need 520W I would go for the 650W 80% eff one?
 
Because I want a top of the line nvidia card. I said a few times already that I don't want AMD. Plus i'm going to have some financial changes this year and I need to buy right now, this month, what other card, from nvidia, would be better?

GTX 570 2.5 GB or GTX 560 Ti 2 GB, alone or in SLI. The 580 is pretty much the WORST performance/$ card you can buy right now and utterly pointless. It's not even top of the line, the GTX 590 is but buying that is worse than SLI'd GTX 570's.
 

knitoe

Member
I will be getting my SSD on Friday and need some help on how to install it into my existing rig.

I currently have 2 1 TB HDD's, with the C:/ drive having windows on it. Should I:

1.) Format my E:\ HDD first
2.) Format my C:\ drive 2nd
3.) Power down the system
4.) Install the SSD
5.) Reboot system

And that is where I am not sure or even if steps 1-5 are accurate. I would assume that when it boots it boots to the motherboard menu and i have to tell it to use the SSD as the main drive??? Then install windows to the SSD?

Thanks. I built this rig from the ground up, but having to add a new main c:\ drive is confusing me so any help would be appreciated.
You don't have to format the drives unless you want to remove all the data. Go into the bios and select the device/drive that has Windows installation files to bootup first. Then, just follow Windows install and select SSD to install on.
 

Grayman

Member
EVGA is having a whatever length they do sale with a 560ti,

it was enough to get my interested in asking what is the deal with video ram right now? Games like BF3 are wanting at least 1.5gb at the high end so is getting a 1gb card a bad idea for the future? Will mid range cards next cycle likely have more ram?
 

Hawk269

Member
You don't have to format the drives unless you want to remove all the data. Go into the bios and select the device/drive that has Windows installation files to bootup first. Then, just follow Windows install and select SSD to install on.

Really? So, I should just power down, install the SSD and then boot the system and tell it to go to my media drive since I have the windows disk and then install windows to the SSD?

How does stuff like Steam work since it is on the C drive which will now be changed to something else since the SSD will be the new c drive?
 

Owensboro

Member
So I got all the parts in that I ordered (Thanks for the help!) and installed everything last night.... and somehow it worked the first time I hooked everything up!

I started installing everything that I used to have to my new SSD and gave it a go. SWTOR played fine for around 2 hours when all of a sudden my PC just turned off. It wasn't a crash, it wasn't a reset, it wasn't a BSOD, it just lost all power for around 3-5 seconds, and then turned back on.

I took the thing apart again and made sure I had all my in-case power connections firmly attached, checked the power cable attached to the back of the computer, and also checked the power strip it's connected to (just in case). I booted it back up and it ran fine until just 2 minutes ago when I booted up SWTOR in windowed mode and was browsing the internet on my other monitor with Steam running in the background.

It just lost power for 3-5 seconds (enough for fans to stop spinning), and then booted itself right back up (I never had to hit the power button or reset button). Anyone have an idea what could be causing this?

EDIT: Posting computer specs just in case. Intel i5-2500K, 8 Gigs RAM, GTX 560 Ti, 80GB SSD (Intel).
 

Branson

Member
GTX 570 2.5 GB or GTX 560 Ti 2 GB, alone or in SLI. The 580 is pretty much the WORST performance/$ card you can buy right now and utterly pointless. It's not even top of the line, the GTX 590 is but buying that is worse than SLI'd GTX 570's.

Ok. Thank you btw for helping lol. So if I get that 2.5gb 570 thats a better deal price to power ratio? I'm not planning on sli at this moment.

Also I was looking at the 7970s, and bear with me, I've always had nvidia, how are AMD drivers and support now? Do they have all of the features that nvidia does in regards to forcing AA and things like that?
 
In the need to buy a new GPU. This 4850 512mb is not cutting it anymore especially in 1080p. I would love to wait it out and get the 7950 when it comes out but I wouldn't feel comfortable spending $350+ on a video card. Should I just get a 6950 2gb?
 
EVGA is having a whatever length they do sale with a 560ti,

it was enough to get my interested in asking what is the deal with video ram right now? Games like BF3 are wanting at least 1.5gb at the high end so is getting a 1gb card a bad idea for the future? Will mid range cards next cycle likely have more ram?

I recommend 2 GB VRAM. And yes, mid-range cards will have more VRAM moving forward.

Ok. Thank you btw for helping lol. So if I get that 2.5gb 570 thats a better deal price to power ratio? I'm not planning on sli at this moment.

Also I was looking at the 7970s, and bear with me, I've always had nvidia, how are AMD drivers and support now? Do they have all of the features that nvidia does in regards to forcing AA and things like that?

AMD drivers and support are much improved (not that I had any problems with them). And yes, a GTX 570 2.5 GB (hell, even the 1.28 GB model) is a MUCH better price/performance ratio than a GTX 580. Also if you don't mind 1.28 GB VRAM (which I don't fully recommend), get a GTX 560 Ti 448 core. Confusing, I know.

AMD has different ways of forcing AA which are usually as effective as Nvidia, but Nvidia does have compatibility bits which means you can get better AA or AA in games that AMD can't.

If you want the best performance around, get a 7970. If you're unsure and want to force specialty antialiasing and don't mind a slower card, get a GTX 570 2.5 GB if you can find one, or something like a 560 Ti 2GB.
 

knitoe

Member
Really? So, I should just power down, install the SSD and then boot the system and tell it to go to my media drive since I have the windows disk and then install windows to the SSD?

How does stuff like Steam work since it is on the C drive which will now be changed to something else since the SSD will be the new c drive?

Unless you clone the HDD to SDD, you will need to reinstall every program and games because registry, shortcuts and etc would be missing.
 

Hawk269

Member
Unless you clone the HDD to SDD, you will need to reinstall every program and games because registry, shortcuts and etc would be missing.

So why not just reformat them then? I want to make this as simple as possible. I want the SSD to be the new C drive, then have my 2 HDD's as E & F drive or whatever.
 

Branson

Member
I recommend 2 GB VRAM. And yes, mid-range cards will have more VRAM moving forward.



AMD drivers and support are much improved (not that I had any problems with them). And yes, a GTX 570 2.5 GB (hell, even the 1.28 GB model) is a MUCH better price/performance ratio than a GTX 580. Also if you don't mind 1.28 GB VRAM (which I don't fully recommend), get a GTX 560 Ti 448 core. Confusing, I know.

AMD has different ways of forcing AA which are usually as effective as Nvidia, but Nvidia does have compatibility bits which means you can get better AA or AA in games that AMD can't.

If you want the best performance around, get a 7970. If you're unsure and want to force specialty antialiasing and don't mind a slower card, get a GTX 570 2.5 GB if you can find one, or something like a 560 Ti 2GB.

Ok sounds good. Looks like the 570 2.5 GB is a great purchase reading the reviews and stuff. Plus its a bit cheaper. I'm going to be getting a 700w power supply so I assume that would be ok?
 
So why not just reformat them then? I want to make this as simple as possible. I want the SSD to be the new C drive, then have my 2 HDD's as E & F drive or whatever.

Just reformat and reinstall. Use Ninite to speed that up.


Ok sounds good. Looks like the 570 2.5 GB is a great purchase reading the reviews and stuff. Plus its a bit cheaper. I'm going to be getting a 700w power supply so I assume that would be ok?

Yup, 700w is fine if it's a good PSU!

And if you decide to resell, the 570 2.5 GB will have a great resale value.
 

FoolsRun

Member
If I'm reading this right: if my PC needs 400W at the time, the 80% efficient PSU would pull 500W from the wall, and the 90% efficient one would pull 444W from the wall? So a 560W 90% efficient PSU is appropriate if my machine is never going to need more than 504W, and if I need 520W I would go for the 650W 80% eff one?

The wattage is based on the amount the PSU is able to deliver to your components, not what it draws from the wall. Two good quality 550W PSUs should be able to deliver 550W to your system regardless of their efficiency; the difference is how much extra they have to draw from the outlet.

It appears the Antec model is actually built by Seasonic, so both models are pretty good. And in tests the Antec delivers around 85% efficiency versus Seasonic's 90%, so there's not a huge difference in electricity saving. Seasonic's X series are nice, and since their fans only come on when they reach certain temperatures, they're fairly quiet (and completely silent when the fan is off).
 

Grayman

Member
I recommend 2 GB VRAM. And yes, mid-range cards will have more VRAM moving forward.



AMD drivers and support are much improved (not that I had any problems with them). And yes, a GTX 570 2.5 GB (hell, even the 1.28 GB model) is a MUCH better price/performance ratio than a GTX 580. Also if you don't mind 1.28 GB VRAM (which I don't fully recommend), get a GTX 560 Ti 448 core. Confusing, I know.

AMD has different ways of forcing AA which are usually as effective as Nvidia, but Nvidia does have compatibility bits which means you can get better AA or AA in games that AMD can't.

If you want the best performance around, get a 7970. If you're unsure and want to force specialty antialiasing and don't mind a slower card, get a GTX 570 2.5 GB if you can find one, or something like a 560 Ti 2GB.
Thanks, the ram is starting to seem like a bottleneck so I definitely am going to skip another generation because my gtx260 is still running.
 

knitoe

Member
So why not just reformat them then? I want to make this as simple as possible. I want the SSD to be the new C drive, then have my 2 HDD's as E & F drive or whatever.

Formatting them doesn't make it any more simple. It just removes all data on drive. You can do that before or after installing Windows. The SSD will be C drive after you install new Windows on it.

If you want simplest way, disconnect all drives except DVD/CD drive and SSD. Go into bios, have DVD drive as 1st boot, restart, run Windows setup and select SSD for Windows install location. Afterward, go into bios, setup SSD as 1st boot and reconnect all HDD drives. Some programs you can just reinstall to pointing to HDD location and you don't have to re-download again. But, if you want to format the drives, just go into Windows Disk Management and do it.
 

Hawk269

Member
Formatting them doesn't make it any more simple. It just removes all data on drive. You can do that before or after installing Windows. The SSD will be C drive after you install new Windows on it.

If you want simplest way, disconnect all drives except DVD/CD drive and SSD. Go into bios, have DVD drive as 1st boot, restart, run Windows setup and select SSD for Windows install location. Afterward, go into bios, setup SSD as 1st boot and reconnect all HDD drives. Some programs you can just reinstall to pointing to HDD location and you don't have to re-download again. But, if you want to format the drives, just go into Windows Disk Management and do it.

Thanks. I read about doing that as well, having the DVD/CD Drive and SSD only, then after installing windows put the HDD's back into the MB.

Thank you and that now makes it sound like the thing I will do. I did mistate that I will have the SSD on Friday...I intend to order it on Friday.

What is the best SSD to get now? I am looking for at minimum 240gb or so. Thanks!
 

knitoe

Member
Thanks. I read about doing that as well, having the DVD/CD Drive and SSD only, then after installing windows put the HDD's back into the MB.

Thank you and that now makes it sound like the thing I will do. I did mistate that I will have the SSD on Friday...I intend to order it on Friday.

What is the best SSD to get now? I am looking for at minimum 240gb or so. Thanks!

Samsung 830 SSD seems to be best currently, blazing speed and similar quality to Intel. 256GB goes for $390.
 

scogoth

Member
Number 225. Unfortunately I will need to redo my white and blue case motif to black.

20120112-1kyp2p93itu3yej6p9hui8buhy.medium.jpg
 

mmxzero

Member
In the need to buy a new GPU. This 4850 512mb is not cutting it anymore especially in 1080p. I would love to wait it out and get the 7950 when it comes out but I wouldn't feel comfortable spending $350+ on a video card. Should I just get a 6950 2gb?

If anyone can help out, I'm also considering a 6950 2GB. Is the extra GB worth the extra cash? Or will the difference ultimately be negligible? Using a 1080p monitor.

Here's the 2 I'm looking at.

EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB (Fermi) 1GB on sale for $210 after promo code and mir.

XFX Double D HD-695X-CDFC Radeon HD 6950 2GB currently $250 after mir.

The 560ti above is looking mighty good at that price, but still unsure which way to go. Guidance needed.
 

Lime

Member
In the need to buy a new GPU. This 4850 512mb is not cutting it anymore especially in 1080p. I would love to wait it out and get the 7950 when it comes out but I wouldn't feel comfortable spending $350+ on a video card. Should I just get a 6950 2gb?

Don't buy a 6950 immediately - wait for the prices to go down when the 7950 is released, whether it will be Nvidia or AMD you are buying.
 
I would definitely get the 2GB. Personally. A game like BF3 can already stress 1GB at 1080P.

I would also wait a couple months if possible for the 7800 series.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I don't have time (and will) to build myself a new PC. Question: how badly am I getting riped off on the following 1000EUR rig (US GAF assume it's 1000USD):

Acer Predator G3610

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600
GPU: GeForce GTX560Ti 1280MB
RAM: 12GB DDR3
HDD: 2TB

DVD-burner, Card Reader 8-in-1, USB 3.0, USB 2.0, Win7 HP, HDMI-out.

If it's so much it makes you cry inside - recommend me a place in Berlin I can build a nice rig.
Not too bad.
Samsung
How come Hazaro recommends the Western Digital one? Does it tend to be a lot cheaper in the US or something?
Cheaper in US tmk by about $15? Pricing are changing week by week by brand and model still.
So for a motherboard, would this be ok for a 2500k and 580? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130621
Any suggestions would be cool.
Yes
If I'm reading this right: if my PC needs 400W at the time, the 80% efficient PSU would pull 500W from the wall, and the 90% efficient one would pull 444W from the wall? So a 560W 90% efficient PSU is appropriate if my machine is never going to need more than 504W, and if I need 520W I would go for the 650W 80% eff one?
That X560W deliver 560W DC to the computer. PSUs are rated at max power THEY supply, not draw from the wall. THat said the X560W is a better PSU and can be overdrawn. No single card will use more than 550W stock right now.
So I got all the parts in that I ordered (Thanks for the help!) and installed everything last night.... and somehow it worked the first time I hooked everything up!

I started installing everything that I used to have to my new SSD and gave it a go. SWTOR played fine for around 2 hours when all of a sudden my PC just turned off. It wasn't a crash, it wasn't a reset, it wasn't a BSOD, it just lost all power for around 3-5 seconds, and then turned back on.

I took the thing apart again and made sure I had all my in-case power connections firmly attached, checked the power cable attached to the back of the computer, and also checked the power strip it's connected to (just in case). I booted it back up and it ran fine until just 2 minutes ago when I booted up SWTOR in windowed mode and was browsing the internet on my other monitor with Steam running in the background.

It just lost power for 3-5 seconds (enough for fans to stop spinning), and then booted itself right back up (I never had to hit the power button or reset button). Anyone have an idea what could be causing this?

EDIT: Posting computer specs just in case. Intel i5-2500K, 8 Gigs RAM, GTX 560 Ti, 80GB SSD (Intel).
I'd wager there is a short somewhere. Take it apart and see if theres a screw under the mobo or something. Also did you use mobo standoffs?
I would definitely get the 2GB. Personally. A game like BF3 can already stress 1GB at 1080P.

I would also wait a couple months if possible for the 7800 series.
I've lways heard BF3 sucks GPU memory, but doesn't it just use what is available to it? Like it scales to use it? iirc someone on GAF posted something like it. I don't play BF3 so I don't know.
 

Tsukiakari

Neo Member
Hey guys, I built my computer years ago and was looking to upgrade soon. I usually take a long time researching compatibility and the like, but thought the computer-buffs at gaf could help me!

Your Current Specs:
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 @ 2.66GHz
Conroe 65nm Technology

RAM
4.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 399MHz (5-5-5-18)

Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. P35-DS3L (Socket 775)

Graphics
512MB GeForce 8800GT (EVGA)

Budget:
$~400 + or - $100, US.

Monitor Resolution:
1440 x 900 and 1280x1024, will upgrade eventually to 1920 x 1080, but not a huge priority.

Main Use, and List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play:
Gaming, with current gen games like Starcraft 2, Skyrim, etc.

Are reusing any parts?:
Will probably reuse my 520W Corsair PSU if possible.

When will you build?:
Can wait a month or more, based on advice.

Thanks for any and all suggestions~
 

Owensboro

Member
Not too bad.
I'd wager there is a short somewhere. Take it apart and see if theres a screw under the mobo or something. Also did you use mobo standoffs?

I'm going to assume that "standoffs" means the little screws that go between the motherboard and case, thus setting up a sort of platform to screw the motherboard into. If so, then yes, I used those.

I'm doing a little more testing right now. It seems my computer crashes when I have Steam & SWTOR running at the same time, but not when I have each program on individually. I left the computer on last night with Steam running to make sure it's not just steam, but I won't be able to check until I get home from work today. Assuming it does reset itself, I'll check under the Mobo to see if it's a screw under the mobo.
 

FoolsRun

Member
Hey guys, I built my computer years ago and was looking to upgrade soon.

Main Use, and List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play:
Gaming, with current gen games like Starcraft 2, Skyrim, etc.

Are reusing any parts?:
Will probably reuse my 520W Corsair PSU if possible.
Take a look at the enhanced build in the OP. You'll need a new motherboard (the 775 socket is obsolete at this point), CPU, RAM, and probably another copy of Windows (Windows OEM is usually licensed to a particular motherboard; if you have the retail version you may be able to transfer it). I assume you'll want to upgrade your video card as well.

You should be able to reuse your PSU, hard drive (since they are so expensive at the moment), DVD player, and case.
 
To continue the GPU discussion, if I'm determined to go with Nvidia would it make more sense for me to go with a GTX 560 Ti 2048 MB for $280 or a GTX 570 2560MB for $400? Will it be possible for me to max (or nearly max) Battlefield 3 with either of these (CPU is i7 2600k, resolution 1920x1080)? I'd like to not have to upgrade for at least 2 years but still be able to run new releases are nearly maximum settings (too much to ask?). I was considering a 580 1.5GB or 3GB, but I don't want to do that if you all think it's a waste of money.

EDIT: Also, in the OP it mentions that "bigger custom coolers" are highly recommended, which I'm assuming means something like this. I don't know if I'll overclock, but is a card like this necessary if I plan to do so? Are there any alternative GPU cooling methods?
 

mkenyon

Banned
To continue the GPU discussion, if I'm determined to go with Nvidia would it make more sense for me to go with a GTX 560 Ti 2048 MB for $280 or a GTX 570 2560MB for $400? Will it be possible for me to max (or nearly max) Battlefield 3 with either of these (CPU is i7 2600k)? I'd like to not have to upgrade for at least 2 years but still be able to run new releases are nearly maximum settings (too much to ask?). I was considering a 580 1.5GB or 3GB, but I don't want to do that if you all think it's a waste of money.

EDIT: Also, in the OP it mentions that "bigger custom coolers" are highly recommended, which I'm assuming means something like this. I don't know if I'll overclock, but is a card like this necessary if I plan to do so? Are there any alternative GPU cooling methods?
Neither of those cards will max out BF3. A single 580 won't max out BF3 either, though. Personally, I think the 580 is still a great card. $:performance be damned, it still has better performance than any single Nvidia GPU. If you can afford it, by all means. No one can guarantee you max performance on new titles for 2 years though, don't ask for that kind of reassurance.

Per your edit question, yeah, that's the kind of cooler. There are a host of aftermarket coolers like Zalman VF or Arctic Cooling stuff that does an even better job (the prior of the two can be found on Zotac cards), but they generally require reference cards to be installed properly. MSI Twin Frozr and ASUS DCII are the best of the bunch otherwise.
 
Neither of those cards will max out BF3. A single 580 won't max out BF3 either, though. Personally, I think the 580 is still a great card. $:performance be damned, it still has better performance than any single Nvidia GPU. If you can afford it, by all means. No one can guarantee you max performance on new titles for 2 years though, don't ask for that kind of reassurance.

Per your edit question, yeah, that's the kind of cooler. There are a host of aftermarket coolers like Zalman VF or Arctic Cooling stuff that does an even better job (the prior of the two can be found on Zotac cards), but they generally require reference cards to be installed properly. MSI Twin Frozr and ASUS DCII are the best of the bunch otherwise.

Woohoo there a second bud. A single 580 will max out BF3 at 1920x1080. Will it be a constant 60fps, no, but it will be a fairly constant average of 45+.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Sorry, I forget that some people are okay with sub-60fps. Still adjusting to this GAF phenomenon.

You *certainly* would not want to max out BF3 in multiplayer with a 580. Even my SLI 560ti's struggle with it.
 

Cimarron

Member
Your Current Specs:
CPU
AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 4400+

RAM
Corsair Size 512 MBytes
Max bandwidth PC3200 (200 MHz)
(2x 1 gig of ram total)

Motherboard
A8V-E DELUXE

Graphics
RADEON X800 Series
Codename R430
Technology 0.11 um
Memory size 256 MB

Budget:
1,200 - 1,800 USD

Monitor Resolution:
I have an old CRT I need a suggestion for a good HD 3D monitor

Main Use, and List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play:
Gaming! Skyrim, Diablo 3, Witcher 2, Starcraft 2. I want to run these with all the bells and whistles going in 3D.

Are reusing any parts?:
I would like to use my NZXT TRINITY case and my Enermax EG565P-VE FMA(24P) power source if possible.

When will you build?:
I wish to start building my new rig within a month.

Basically I want to try to build a top of the line system so that I can run current games all out and not have to worry about upgrading for a LONG time. If I can cannibalize my current rig to cut costs to build a new rig I have to problem as long as I don't cripple (bottleneck) any new components I get. I built this baby back in 2005 so if it is just a better idea for me to start from scratch I am OK with it. If I can get a top of the line system within my budget that is premade and doesn't have significant bottle necks that will be a pain in the arse to upgrade I don't mind going that route. If not I am ok with building it from scratch myself. Thanks! =)
 
Sorry, I forget that some people are okay with sub-60fps. Still adjusting to this GAF phenomenon.

You *certainly* would not want to max out BF3 in multiplayer with a 580. Even my SLI 560ti's struggle with it.

Not to get into a BF3 discussion, but in your opinion would the settings needed for 60fps on a single 2GB 560 Ti (I'm assuming everything High with maybe Ultra textures) look significantly different than with everything maxed? And if I abandon all thoughts of a 580 then is a 2.5GB 570 $120 better than a 2GB 560 Ti?
 
Sorry, I forget that some people are okay with sub-60fps. Still adjusting to this GAF phenomenon.

You *certainly* would not want to max out BF3 in multiplayer with a 580. Even my SLI 560ti's struggle with it.

As I've showed Corky before, not true. I avg over 60 fps @ Ultra everything, Motion Blur off (not good for competitive play) @ 1080p on a single OC'd GTX 570. I am guessing your 560Ti's only have 1 GB VRAM, whicb is a bottleneck and will cause stuttering with Ultra textures.

Not to get into a BF3 discussion, but in your opinion would the settings needed for 60fps on a single 2GB 560 Ti (I'm assuming everything High with maybe Ultra textures) look significantly different than with everything maxed? And if I abandon all thoughts of a 580 then is a 2.5GB 570 $120 better than a 2GB 560 Ti?

It's not $120 better if OC'ing. A 560Ti can be OC'd to GTX 580 stock speeds, and 2 GB of VRAM is plenty.
 

Maaseru

Banned
So I was using my Pc today and started getting these weird graphical glitches, like red , blue or other color lines/dots messing my desktop. It's like if it was some kind of static, usually starts when seeing some video o something.

The thing is when it fixes itself it says nvidia driver stopped responding, when it doesn;t it just sort of freezes and the audio goes all slowmo like.

Any clues as to what could be my problem here? I have a evga nvidia gtx 560ti and it less than a year old, and lately i've been playing swtor too much and have left my pc on a long time if that affects the issues.
 
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