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[longdi]

review of rv02e casing, timeless classic

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/07/27/silverstone_raven_2_evolution_enthusiast_case_review

 

[Thraktor]

Budget: 850-900€ (buying from Italy, prices coming from Amazon.it)
I'm not going to overclock anything

CPU Intel Core i5-2500K €199,64

If you're not overclocking, you don't need a K model CPU. That said, with a CM 212 cooler, you'd have no problems overclocking. Change two settings in the BIOS, and you've got a 4GHz CPU. No risk of overheating with the cooler you've got.

In either case, though, you're probably better off going with the newer Ivy Bridge 3570/3570K rather than the Sandy Bridge 2500/2500K. Better performance for pretty much the same price.

MONITOR: Do I need a new one?

That's really a matter of preference. It would probably be worthwhile to look at reviews for the 7850 to see how it performs in different resolutions and decide whether the boost in resolution to 1080p is worth the drop in framerate and/or settings. If you do want to move up to 1080p, the 7850 shouldn't have too much trouble handling it, though.

My O.S. is installed on a 160GB Samsung SP1614C 7200 RPM: should I buy a SSD, install the O.S. and then use a 1TB HDD for programs/videogames (as install directory)?
Would I gain some speed?

Yes, all OS stuff should be a lot quicker. Games will obviously load at the same speed if they're on a hard-drive, but you could use Steam Mover or Steam Tool to put a couple of commonly played ones on the SSD.

 

[Corky]

Don't hit me if this suggestion is stupid, have you tried doing a manual windows installation? From within Device Manager, do the whole "Browse my Computer for driver software" on the unit before it's installed and then later install the software manually from the RAR

I haven't and by god do I keep my pc squeeky clean and trashfree, never have I used up more than 100gb of 1tb but if push comes to shove I might to a reinstall of w7.

Which "different" drivers did you try? Were they just older/newer versions of the ASUS driver? I doubt it's a hardware problem like bad PCI lanes or anything, so for the moment you don't need to worry about that.

However, in capital letters: ASUS DRIVERS SUCK. I hate them. If you've been using nothing but official ASUS drivers, forget about them. Download and install Xonar Unified Drivers (link). Unless you already tried them wrt "different" drivers.

I've tried :

7.12.8.1794 ( this is the latest one )
7.12.8.1792 ( this one was the one I had )

7.12.8.1780 ( this is the one I'm going to try this time )

Problem is I've heard that I shouldn't try to install the drivers unless the red light on my card lights up on the back and I can't for the life of me figure out "how to turn on the soundcard" without installing the drivers. What more can I do than plugging the shit in?

I've been looking at those asus xonar unified drivers but I've heard that they too have their issues like audio popping out and such.

Right now all I want is to go onto grooveshark, search for "tristram" play the shit out of it at volume "6" and that's crazy loud. Now... if I can even install the drivers, I have to crank it up to "20" to get the same volume.

 

[abunai]

I haven't and by god do I keep my pc squeeky clean and trashfree, never have I used up more than 100gb of 1tb but if push comes to shove I might to a reinstall of w7.



I've tried :

7.12.8.1794 ( this is the latest one )
7.12.8.1792 ( this one was the one I had )

7.12.8.1780 ( this is the one I'm going to try this time )

Problem is I've heard that I shouldn't try to install the drivers unless the red light on my card lights up on the back and I can't for the life of me figure out "how to turn on the soundcard" without installing the drivers. What more can I do than plugging the shit in?

I've been looking at those asus xonar unified drivers but I've heard that they too have their issues like audio popping out and such.

Right now all I want is to go onto grooveshark, search for "tristram" play the shit out of it at volume "6" and that's crazy loud. Now... if I can even install the drivers, I have to crank it up to "20" to get the same volume.

I wouldn't worry about installing drivers without a light on the card. When you've done a driver sweep is there any entries in Device Manager? Under sound card or even as unknown device?

I strongly recommend the unified xonar drivers. Strongly. I used to have sound popping with WASAPI and AISO sound environments, now it's gone. Audio latency is vastly decreased from the official drivers and I don't blue screen. It's worth a shot if you've tried everything else, at least.

 

[Corky]

I wouldn't worry about installing drivers without a light on the card. When you've done a driver sweep is there any entries in Device Manager? Under sound card or even as unknown device?

I strongly recommend the unified xonar drivers. Strongly. I used to have sound popping with WASAPI and AISO sound environments, now it's gone. Audio latency is vastly decreased from the official drivers and I don't blue screen. It's worth a shot if you've tried everything else, at least.

Just tried the unified drivers, setup wouldn't finish I had to manually exit the setup ( it said something along the lines of : this part should not take more than 60 sec and it took roughly 10 min so I closed it )

Rebooted, have audio, same issue as before, volume is drastically lower than it was before all of this I honestly don't know what to do and I'm really getting genuinely frustrated.


edit :


I ..... ugh....

why....


how?

How?

How can audio drivers fuck things up so bad that my windows validation just disappears?!

WTF IS GOING ON!?!?!??!?!?!?

 

[abunai]

Just tried the unified drivers, setup wouldn't finish I had to manually exit the setup ( it said something along the lines of : this part should not take more than 60 sec and it took roughly 10 min so I closed it )

Rebooted, have audio, same issue as before, volume is drastically lower than it was before all of this I honestly don't know what to do and I'm really getting genuinely frustrated.

I just tried wiping my drivers and installing the latest version of unified and the setup did the same thing to me. Try version 1.41 (installs fine for me with admin) with the C-Media audio panel option in the setup.

 

[Corky]

I just tried wiping my drivers and installing the latest version of unified and the setup did the same thing to me. Try version 1.41 (installs fine for me with admin) with the C-Media audio panel option in the setup.

My problem is no longer to get the drivers to install. For some reason they install. What I can't wrap my god damn head around is the drastic decrease in volume output. Something is wrong and I have no fucking idea what, """""""luckily"""""" I'm not crazy since there seem to be a handful of people out there with the same issues and I didn't expect anything else than none of them having fixed it... which they obviously didn't.

I give up.

edit : these small problems... they just won't go away, how do I disable xonar dx audio center from starting up on boot? I went and checked msconfig but there's no reference to that software, so either I've forgotten how I turned it off in the past or this is just another one of these amazing gifts that these drivers are giving me.

 

[kennah]

Quick question. I have a Q6600 and 6850 currently. A gaffer has a hell of a deal on a 570 in the buy sell trade. Would my cpu bottleneck the card much or would I still see a good improvement.

 

[eso76]

So i guess i'm the only one having issues with the 1TB Samsung F3 appearing as 33MB and apparently impossible to get back to its native size with Samsung, Seagate and a dozen other tools ?
Should i assume it's just damaged at this point ?

 

[Jburton]

So guys, looking a recommendation for a cooler for my gtx 670 (reference) ...... more for silence and capacity for overclocking.

 

[Corky]

I want to avoid this software to boot on startup.

AsusAudiocenter.exe*32


As you can see, it's nowhere to be found in the msconfig startup... so why does it still boot on start up and how to I stop it?

 

[Darkatomz]

I want to avoid this software to boot on startup.

AsusAudiocenter.exe*32


As you can see, it's nowhere to be found in the msconfig startup... so why does it still boot on start up and how to I stop it?

I don't know why you ran into the problems you ran into, as Asus' audio drivers are pretty good.

Before you do anything crazy like disable the service that actually makes you soundcard work, can you try something for me first?

Go into your BIOS and disable onboard sound.

 

[mkenyon]

You try using CCleaner to get rid of everything?

 

[CoachKevin]

(caring over from the last page with some more tests)

I have a few questions in regards to the GTX 570 (EVGA brand)

I seem to have run into some issues with a few games and I don't know if is the game's problem or the video card. All drivers are up to date.

Here are some examples:

• After getting 15 hours into saints row the third, the game crashes after getting 5-10 minutes into gameplay.
• In Darksiders, the screen will go black for 3-5 seconds every couple minutes with V-sync on, when it is off everything is fine.
• In Metro 2033 the game will freeze for a second, then keep going (not while it is saving)

With that being said, Dead Space 2 runs fantastically. Crysis seems to as well.

So do you think these issues are coming from the GTX 570? The drivers are all up to date. I swapped out the bad ram I had and ran memtester on it and everything checked out.

Would updating my motherboard's bios help?

Some more info just in case:
Asus P8Z77-V Motherboard
16GB Corsair Vengance Ram
Core i5 2500k

Thanks for your help in advance!

 

[LightofRohan]

So I've just built my computer (thanks again for the help!) and have been going about installing all the stuff I need. But it doesn't seem as fast as it should be (just idle/installing/websurfing) and my cores seem to be running a little high.

Here's my computer after just turning it on and doing nothing, just sitting there:

Does that seem right? And also, I keep hearing like my HDD(?) reading stuff constantly, like my old computer when it would do something extensive with the hdd. This is my first computer build in a while, not sure if I did anything wrong.

**Right after I type this, my cores went down to about 3% and the HDD noise is less. There is something that is booting up w/ my computer I think that's really excessive...

Looking at my startup, I have some things I dunno if I should keep/delete; VirtuControlPanel, the THX Audio program, THXC, XFastUSB. A lot came w/ my Asrock MOBO and I installed them all, should I unistall them all?

 

[RibbedHero]

Quick question, Precision-X or MSI Afterburner or another program for OCing? I've been using MSI Afterburner for while, but I was told that Precision-X might be better for a GTX 670.

 

[mkenyon]

Looking at my startup, I have some things I dunno if I should keep/delete; VirtuControlPanel, the THX Audio program, THXC, XFastUSB. A lot came w/ my Asrock MOBO and I installed them all, should I unistall them all?

Pretty much, yeah.

I never ever install the drivers from the CD/DVD. Download chipset, LAN, USB 3.0, and anything extra special (like some fancy onboard sound driver), AMD/NVIDIA drivers and no applications. Just the drivers. Put those on a USB stick, and install them after a fresh Windows install. Then run windows update. Go into device manager and see if anything is missing. If not, you're done. If so, grab the appropriate one again from the download page.

Quick question, Precision-X or MSI Afterburner or another program for OCing? I've been using MSI Afterburner for while, but I was told that Precision-X might be better for a GTX 670.

They're both using the same foundation, so the differences are in aesthetics and extra tools. I like EVGA Precision X for the HUD while running benches or first getting games optimized. Totally subjective though.

 

[abunai]

Quick question, Precision-X or MSI Afterburner or another program for OCing? I've been using MSI Afterburner for while, but I was told that Precision-X might be better for a GTX 670.

I've always used Precision-X, but they're all essentially Rivatuner with different skins. Unless I'm being painfully ignorant there won't be much difference.

I want to avoid this software to boot on startup.

AsusAudiocenter.exe*32


As you can see, it's nowhere to be found in the msconfig startup... so why does it still boot on start up and how to I stop it?

Since there's no startup entry in cfg, try running the CCleaner registry cleaner, and check it didn't dump anything in the Startup folder.

Quick question. I have a Q6600 and 6850 currently. A gaffer has a hell of a deal on a 570 in the buy sell trade. Would my cpu bottleneck the card much or would I still see a good improvement.

Is your Q6600 overclocked? Either way, you'll still see a significant improvement by switching to a 570.

So i guess i'm the only one having issues with the 1TB Samsung F3 appearing as 33MB and apparently impossible to get back to its native size with Samsung, Seagate and a dozen other tools ?
Should i assume it's just damaged at this point ?

Does it pass the tests in seatools etc? It could just be a table error that might need a reformat to fix. Try booting into a linux usb stick and seeing what size it reads as there. This might be worth a read.

(caring over from the last page with some more tests)

I have a few questions in regards to the GTX 570 (EVGA brand)

I seem to have run into some issues with a few games and I don't know if is the game's problem or the video card. All drivers are up to date.

Here are some examples:

• After getting 15 hours into saints row the third, the game crashes after getting 5-10 minutes into gameplay.
• In Darksiders, the screen will go black for 3-5 seconds every couple minutes with V-sync on, when it is off everything is fine.
• In Metro 2033 the game will freeze for a second, then keep going (not while it is saving)

With that being said, Dead Space 2 runs fantastically. Crysis seems to as well.

So do you think these issues are coming from the GTX 570? The drivers are all up to date. I swapped out the bad ram I had and ran memtester on it and everything checked out.

Would updating my motherboard's bios help?

Some more info just in case:
Asus P8Z77-V Motherboard
16GB Corsair Vengance Ram
Core i5 2500k

Thanks for your help in advance!

While updating your BIOS wouldn't help, I doubt it will be the cause of the problem. What sort of temperatures is your graphics card playing at under load? Any overclocking? Reduce/turn off if that is the case. It's strange that Dead Space 2/Crysis works, though. If you already answered these questions on previous pages, sorry. Don't have time to check every post in this thread.

So I've just built my computer (thanks again for the help!) and have been going about installing all the stuff I need. But it doesn't seem as fast as it should be (just idle/installing/websurfing) and my cores seem to be running a little high.

Here's my computer after just turning it on and doing nothing, just sitting there:

Does that seem right? And also, I keep hearing like my HDD(?) reading stuff constantly, like my old computer when it would do something extensive with the hdd. This is my first computer build in a while, not sure if I did anything wrong.

**Right after I type this, my cores went down to about 3% and the HDD noise is less. There is something that is booting up w/ my computer I think that's really excessive...

Looking at my startup, I have some things I dunno if I should keep/delete; VirtuControlPanel, the THX Audio program, THXC, XFastUSB. A lot came w/ my Asrock MOBO and I installed them all, should I unistall them all?

If you're installed to a HDD it's probably caching or something. HDDs are slow (however there is a bunch of junk installed like VirtuMVP etc). Next time it occurs you could check Resource Monitor to see what is using your CPU up. You can get to Resource Monitor by opening task manager, going to the performance tab and pressing the Resource Monitor button at the bottom. Sort the CPU tab by average CPU usage. Same for HDD usage.

 

[Oxn]

One more question.

I plan on getting a SSD really soon. I do not have an internal DVD drive, but i do have a external one.

When installing a fresh OS on a blank drive, can i run Win7 install through a USB DVD drive and install?

Any answers?

 

[Thraktor]

Any answers?

Not 100% sure on whether you can install from a USB DVD drive, but you can definitely install from a standard USB stick.

 

[kennah]

I usually run my q6600 stock. There was only a few percent difference in benches when I did testing.

But this might give me good reason to OC.

Thanks!

 

[crimsonheadGCN]

I'm looking to build a new computer soon and wanted to see what everyone things about the parts that I put together.

The computer I would be interested in building for less than $850 is:


CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K Quad Core Unlocked Processor LGA1155 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB for $199.99
OR AMD FX-6100 Zambezi 3.3GHz Socket AM3+ 95W Six-Core Desktop Processor FD6100WMGUSBX for $124.99

Motherboard: ASRock Z68 PRO3 GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard for $104.99
OR GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3 AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard for $109.99

PSU: Seasonic M12II 620W EPS12V 20/24PIN ATX PFC 80+ Bronze Modular 6PIN PCI-E 120MM Fan P *IR-$20* for $69.99

Video Card:
XFX Radeon HD 6850 Fansink 775MHZ 1GB 4.0GHZ GDDR5 2XDVI Display Port HDMI PCI-E Video Card for $139.99

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL for $43.99

Case:
Coolermaster Haf 912 Black Mid Tower ATX Case 4X5.25 1X3.5 6X3.5INT No PS Front USB S *IR-$15* for $54.99

Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel ... for $19.99

DVD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM for $16.99

OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Edition 64BIT SP1 DVD OEM *IR-$10* for $88.99

I want to overclock my PC this time around, but I'm still hesitant about spending so much for the Intel CPU.

 

[abunai]

Not 100% sure on whether you can install from a USB DVD drive, but you can definitely install from a standard USB stick.

You can install from a USB DVD drive yep, but it's easier just to make a USB stick for sure.

 

[Corky]

I don't know why you ran into the problems you ran into, as Asus' audio drivers are pretty good.

Before you do anything crazy like disable the service that actually makes you soundcard work, can you try something for me first?

Go into your BIOS and disable onboard sound.

No idea how it happened either...

Yeah turned off the onboard realtek sound.

You try using CCleaner to get rid of everything?

Yup use it everytime.

Since there's no startup entry in cfg, try running the CCleaner registry cleaner, and check it didn't dump anything in the Startup folder.

I ran it but ccleaner didn't find any errors so I'm at a loss right now. Really don't need asus xonar center to start everytime I boot my pc... I didn't have to put up with it before but now I can't stop it for the life of me ( and it's not needed for my sound to work either so it's really superfluous atm )

 

[lostsupper]

Any answers?

That's exactly what I did. Bought and returned a usb dvd drive from Staples. Worked like a charm. And the cashier girl had awesome cleavage.

 

[Oxn]

You can install from a USB DVD drive yep, but it's easier just to make a USB stick for sure.

how?

 

[abunai]

how?

shazam

 

[MrBig]

how?

shazam

Or the much easier official tool for it

Get the W7 ISO you need from MS if you need it as well.

 

[Sethos]

Or the much easier official tool for it

Yeah, I use this all the time, much better.

 

[Hazaro]

Will the GTX 670 drop in price around a month from now? That's when I'm off vacation. Or should I wait for the rumored 660 Ti?

Wait for sure.

If you are 100% sure you'll never be overclocking, you don't need a K-model CPU. (But you can't overclock without one, so if you think you might change your mind later...)

This is true, but opinions often change and resale value is less on other chips. I still rec the K models for just a touch more if possible.

So I've just built my computer (thanks again for the help!) and have been going about installing all the stuff I need. But it doesn't seem as fast as it should be (just idle/installing/websurfing) and my cores seem to be running a little high.

Here's my computer after just turning it on and doing nothing, just sitting there:

Does that seem right? And also, I keep hearing like my HDD(?) reading stuff constantly, like my old computer when it would do something extensive with the hdd. This is my first computer build in a while, not sure if I did anything wrong.

**Right after I type this, my cores went down to about 3% and the HDD noise is less. There is something that is booting up w/ my computer I think that's really excessive...

Looking at my startup, I have some things I dunno if I should keep/delete; VirtuControlPanel, the THX Audio program, THXC, XFastUSB. A lot came w/ my Asrock MOBO and I installed them all, should I unistall them all?

Probably just caching/indexing.

I'm looking to build a new computer soon and wanted to see what everyone things about the parts that I put together.

The computer I would be interested in building for less than $850 is:


CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K Quad Core Unlocked Processor LGA1155 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB for $199.99
OR AMD FX-6100 Zambezi 3.3GHz Socket AM3+ 95W Six-Core Desktop Processor FD6100WMGUSBX for $124.99

Motherboard: ASRock Z68 PRO3 GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard for $104.99
OR GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3 AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard for $109.99

PSU: Seasonic M12II 620W EPS12V 20/24PIN ATX PFC 80+ Bronze Modular 6PIN PCI-E 120MM Fan P *IR-$20* for $69.99

Video Card:
XFX Radeon HD 6850 Fansink 775MHZ 1GB 4.0GHZ GDDR5 2XDVI Display Port HDMI PCI-E Video Card for $139.99

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL for $43.99

Case:
Coolermaster Haf 912 Black Mid Tower ATX Case 4X5.25 1X3.5 6X3.5INT No PS Front USB S *IR-$15* for $54.99

Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel ... for $19.99

DVD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM for $16.99

OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Edition 64BIT SP1 DVD OEM *IR-$10* for $88.99

I want to overclock my PC this time around, but I'm still hesitant about spending so much for the Intel CPU.

Looks good. Go Intel. Should be able to get a 6870 for that price.

 

[Chittagong]

I have this weird audio drop off problem with my PC. Whenever I watch a video on Plex or listen to Spotify, the audio drops off for less than a second once every few minutes. The AV receiver input display flashes like when changing input, but picture is never dropped. Also, bizarrely this problem does NOT happen during gameplay, the audio is fine then.

I have tried to replace the HDMI cable, and have run DPC Latency Check (average latency 100ms, absolute max 213ms). I have a i5 & 7870 PC hooked up with HDMI to a Sony 5300ES.

Any ideas?

 

[Ocho]

What's the best way to clean the dust on top of my video card? I've tried canned air and it doesn't seem to get the job done.

 

[Azzurri]

I have a ssd as my main hdd and a mechanical as the space hdd. If I were to buy another ssd could I just install that as a secondary and run games off of that with no os install on it

 

[MrBig]

I have a ssd as my main hdd and a mechanical as the space hdd. If I were to buy another ssd could I just install that as a secondary and run games off of that with no os install on it

It will be treated like any storage device, yes.

 

[DarkChronic]

Have a super strange problem, hope this is the place to post it:

Recently bought new RAM (4Gx2, Gskill Ripjaw series) to replace my current 2Gx2 Gskill sticks. Installed the new RAM fine (computer recognized it, read 8 GIGS in the control panel.) However, it made my WIFI not work. I literally could not connect to my home WIFI signal. It picked up the signal, but it could not connect.

I installed my old RAM, and presto, the WIFI worked again. So it really was an issue with the RAM.

Has anyone ever heard of such an issue? Is there a fix for this? Did I receive faulty RAM? Not sure if I should return them for a different set, or what.

Thanks guys..

Anyone? Still waiting for an answer from Gskill team.

 

[LightofRohan]

If you're installed to a HDD it's probably caching or something. HDDs are slow (however there is a bunch of junk installed like VirtuMVP etc). Next time it occurs you could check Resource Monitor to see what is using your CPU up. You can get to Resource Monitor by opening task manager, going to the performance tab and pressing the Resource Monitor button at the bottom. Sort the CPU tab by average CPU usage. Same for HDD usage.

Pretty much, yeah.

I never ever install the drivers from the CD/DVD. Download chipset, LAN, USB 3.0, and anything extra special (like some fancy onboard sound driver), AMD/NVIDIA drivers and no applications. Just the drivers. Put those on a USB stick, and install them after a fresh Windows install. Then run windows update. Go into device manager and see if anything is missing. If not, you're done. If so, grab the appropriate one again from the download page..

Ah, thanks for the info. It seems to be doing better now for some reason, I'll try to uninstall all that other crap.

But goddam! Dem graphics! Just played Max Payne 3 max (hehe) settings and it ran silky smooth. I didn't even realize when I got out of a cutscene, it was all so perfect!

 

[Darkatomz]

No idea how it happened either...

Yeah turned off the onboard realtek sound.

So do you still have the volume issues then?

 

[Azzurri]

It will be treated like any storage device, yes.

Does it take a performance hit at all?

 

[teh_pwn]

If you are 100% sure you'll never be overclocking, you don't need a K-model CPU. (But you can't overclock without one, so if you think you might change your mind later...)

You can sort of OC with non-K, at least with Sandy bridge. I forget what it is, but you can modify the turbo-boost frequency to go to 4.0 GHz and set RAM to 1600 MHz (if it's rated for that).

But yeah, the cost difference is so small, might as well go for K.

I'd encourage going for K and OC because an overpowered CPU today will improve your odds of upgrading to a 2014 GPU without hitting CPU performance bottlenecks much (which can reduce minimum FPS in many games by a ton). That's what I plan on doing with my 2011 PC. If next gen console ports don't play well on a 6950 x2 setup, I'll upgrade to a 2013/4 GPU and use it as my console port & living room HTPC and build a new PC for my office/PC games.

 

[hitmon]

Is 90-97 degrees C an acceptable temp for CPU when playing games?

 

[abunai]

Is 90-97 degrees C an acceptable temp for CPU when playing games?

Very no

 

[MrBig]

Does it take a performance hit at all?

No, just make sure you have it on a Sata 3.0 port.

Is 90-97 degrees C an acceptable temp for CPU when playing games?

Way too high. What are your doing with it?

 

[hitmon]

No, just make sure you have it on a Sata 3.0 port.


Way too high. What are your doing with it?

Was playing Witcher 2...

The CPU is currently at 52 C while just browsing. Any advice on how to lower the temp without liquid cooling?

 

[abunai]

Was playing Witcher 2...

The CPU is currently at 52 C while just browsing. Any advice on how to lower the temp without liquid cooling?

You're gonna have to give us more info than that. CPU? Which heatsink? Case? How many fans? Overclocked? What voltage?

etc.

 

[hitmon]

You're gonna have to give us more info than that. CPU? Which heatsink? Case? How many fans? Overclocked? What voltage?

etc.

i7 920 2.6 not overclocked. There is a non-stock heatsink on it, but I dont remember what brand. Case is ATCS 840. All stock fans.

Not sure if its just witcher 2 as i was switching between Witcher 2 and Binary Domain. HWMonitor reported the cores were going around the 90-97 C temp range.

CPUz reports core voltage around .936-1.104V

 

[MrBig]

i7 920 2.6 not overclocked. There is a non-stock heatsink on it, but I dont remember what brand. Case is ATCS 840. All stock fans.

Not sure if its just witcher 2 as i was switching between Witcher 2 and Binary Domain. HWMonitor reported the cores were going around the 90-97 C temp range.

CPUz reports core voltage around .936-1.104V

May want to clean it all up, make sure you fans are working properly, and reapply your heatsink.

 

[hitmon]

May want to clean it all up, make sure you fans are working properly, and reapply your heatsink.

Whats the highest temp ceiling to aim for?

 

[Oxn]

i7 920 2.6 not overclocked. There is a non-stock heatsink on it, but I dont remember what brand. Case is ATCS 840. All stock fans.

Not sure if its just witcher 2 as i was switching between Witcher 2 and Binary Domain. HWMonitor reported the cores were going around the 90-97 C temp range.

CPUz reports core voltage around .936-1.104V

I got a cheap rose will heat sink and was playing witcher 2 today on a 3570k at 55c. so yes ur 95c is wayyy too high

 

[Pandaman]

Whats the highest temp ceiling to aim for?

not overclocked with an aftermarket heatsink? you have no business breaking 60C outside of a stress test.

 

[hitmon]

Now I'm worried. Thanks all. I'll see if I can clean it some.