Ok GAF, I need your help! The EVGA gtx 460 1gb I bought a year ago broke and is now drawing too much power from my PSU for the computer to even turn on. I can send it into EVGA and they will repair/replace it for me. I've been kind wanting to get a new one soon though. Budget is around $220 and I've been looking at this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814129230&Tpk=visiontek 7850 So question is, is there something better/similar I could get or should I send my card in?
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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disclaimer: bare with me with these prices. I know they are insane compared to what you guys get but it's the sad reality of what videocards cost around here and the only way to get one, so:
A guy on a PC forum I frequent is selling an EVGA gtx680 SC for 770usd. Regular cost is $875.
Apparently it has 2 months of use, 10 left on the warranty, bought from the same hardware store I buy all my stuff.
Dude is selling it cause he's gonna do SLI with two 670's.
you guys think I should go for it? i'd be saving quite a bit of money and having warranty gives me some peace of mind. Could the card have any sort of issue that isnt covered by this warranty and couldnt go through the RMA process that I should know of? as far as I know something as random as coil whine should be enough to be able to change it..
A guy on a PC forum I frequent is selling an EVGA gtx680 SC for 770usd. Regular cost is $875.
Apparently it has 2 months of use, 10 left on the warranty, bought from the same hardware store I buy all my stuff.
Dude is selling it cause he's gonna do SLI with two 670's.
you guys think I should go for it? i'd be saving quite a bit of money and having warranty gives me some peace of mind. Could the card have any sort of issue that isnt covered by this warranty and couldnt go through the RMA process that I should know of? as far as I know something as random as coil whine should be enough to be able to change it..
Get a 670 or wait and get a 660Ti for way less. Do you really need a 680?
Sounds more like a mobo issue to me. Verify the timings and voltages are the same in BIOS, change them if they are not.
Hopefully this isn't too silly a question. Just did my fresh Windows install on my new SSD, but now when I boot my PC, it goes to a screen where I have to select between 2 Windows 7 installations, and Readydriver. I'd like to get rid of this and have it boot straight to Windows. Help?
the 670's here are not the FTW model, and even then (apparently a store recieved a small batch and they sold out QUICK) they're $720, at wich point I might as well get this 680 for the bit of extra money I guess, futureproofing. Although i'll probably jump on a FTW if it re-appears.
and I dont really feel like waiting for the 660. Between them coming out, then importing them to this region, etc. I just wont have the money anymore.
DL EasyBCD and remove the other entries.
Fair enough. If it's a good relative price then go for it.
Does the eVGA CARD warranty apply to where you are or no?
it does
I sent the hardware store an email. If they have another batch of 670 FTW coming i'll probably get that, since the jump in performance isnt really worth getting the 680 (IMO), otherwise i'll go with the used 680 I guess. Just heard really bad things about the ref, non-FTW 670.
CoachKevin
Member
Ya it only seems to really be SR3. I put in a replacement with Amazon, will be here Monday.
Is there any chance it is just the GTX 570? I will try to play another game or two tonight to see if there are any more issues.
I did get about 45 minute into playing SR3 today with v-sync off. When I turned it back on the game crashed 15 minutes later.
Also is there anything like memtester for video cards?
Nehalem is a lot toastier than SB though.
But yeah, you should pull off your heatsink, clean off TIM, clean heatsink of all dust, apply new TIM, reseat heatsink.
Lovely Salsa
Banned
Did all that....now I'm sitting on a windows 7 without any graphics drivers....giving me the same error when I try to install a nvidia driver
just effing great
Is it possible you are using 64bit drivers on a 32bit install or something?Did all that....now I'm sitting on a windows 7 without any graphics drivers....giving me the same error when I try to install a nvidia driver
just effing great
You should just be able to install the driver package downloaded from nvidia for your card and OS.
If you can see the card in device manager try finding drivers that way as well.
*Quick answer, google the error it gives you.
If you go into disk management and try to format it won't let you? Did you restart yet?
Restarted repeatedly, and it tells me it can't format this drive.
Reference card is fine, a little warmer and a little louder (although a fancy cooler edition does not guarantee quiet) ...... Apart from that it still kicks ass as much as the more expensive versions.
Lovely Salsa
Banned
Well, my device manager shows a blank page?? Now how do I solve this?
Dont sweat it. Front connectors are really really really bad. Tons of interference and all sorts of audio degradation. I've never understood the inclusion of these as a standard for cases. It's not like headphones are being constantly swapped out.
Is this a *store bought copy* of Windows or a 'digital' version? If you know what I mean.
Seconded. Nehalem shouldnt be that hot. Especially at such low voltage. Im surprised its even stable at <1v, then again i havent run stock for awhile.
but if u want to have both the headphone and speakers connected that may be a problem.
which brings me to the question. can you have headphone and speakers connected at the same time through the back?
because right now i bought a splitter so that the computer is going through the speaker and headphones at the same port, and it looks ugly.
crimsonheadGCN
Banned
Is there much of a difference between Z68 and Z77?
That's what I suspected. Thanks for the Sanity Check.
My avatar is geek-girl Cali Lewis.
Your right index finger is the most powerful antivirus.
Depends on what you want to take your processor to, and how quiet you want your heatsink to be.
Off the top of my head, the best performing coolers without ridiculous noise are the D14, TPC 812, Thermalright Macho, NZXT Havik 140, and that huge Phanteks one.
If you aren't trying to hit super high clocks, there isn't much reason to go above the Coolermaster Hyper 212+ (non EVO).
I was thinking of overclocking the i7 920 to around 3.2 Ghz. I think that's reasonably doable despite my lack of experience with overclocking. I'm not really sure how high it can go. I'd like to get it as cool as possible without any additional stuff.
BudokaiMR2
Member
So my good ole dependable HD4870 has started throwing up VRAM errors and seems to be overheating quite regularly.
Thankfully I just got a raise and a new GPU was on my list of things to buy soon.
I got this computer with a 4870 about 2 years ago and of course it was still out-dated at this time.
I play on my 32in tv tho so it always did fairly well running at 720p(tv is not 1080p)
However this time I want to make sure the card goes for the long haul.
I looked at some cards today and am thinking about picking this one up:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2#scrollFullInfo
There was also a HIS 6870 with 1gb VRAM for about 100 dollars less. Kind of torn on saving a bit of money or going all out.
Also this is going into a pre bought computer (aspire m7720) and I am a bit worried about putting in a pci x 3.0 card as I have heard that sometimes you will need an updated bios to support 3.0 on older machines. Any idea how common these problems happen? The bios is locked so I would be screwed if it doesn't work.
Thankfully I just got a raise and a new GPU was on my list of things to buy soon.
I got this computer with a 4870 about 2 years ago and of course it was still out-dated at this time.
I play on my 32in tv tho so it always did fairly well running at 720p(tv is not 1080p)
However this time I want to make sure the card goes for the long haul.
I looked at some cards today and am thinking about picking this one up:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2#scrollFullInfo
There was also a HIS 6870 with 1gb VRAM for about 100 dollars less. Kind of torn on saving a bit of money or going all out.
Also this is going into a pre bought computer (aspire m7720) and I am a bit worried about putting in a pci x 3.0 card as I have heard that sometimes you will need an updated bios to support 3.0 on older machines. Any idea how common these problems happen? The bios is locked so I would be screwed if it doesn't work.
PCI-E is backwards and forwards compatible. 690 only card that is currently bottlenecked by 2.0 speeds. Processor controls PCI-E lanes, so only Ivy and *some* socket 2011 support it.
What kind of PSU do you have in your pre-built? Proc? Actually, just fill out the template in the OP.
What kind of PSU do you have in your pre-built? Proc? Actually, just fill out the template in the OP.
gutterboy44
Member
So I decided to do a bit of experimenting with my TIM application tonight. When I took off my heatsink (Noctua NH-D14) it looked like a gooey mess with some spillage of TIM over the edges of the CPU and just over all sloppy looking. It covered the entire CPU but looked a little too thick. This application was the recommended amount suggested in my heatsink instructions, a 5-7mm size blob. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink I then tried a smaller dab of TIM. This resulted in the same uneven spread but not quite to the edges of the CPU. At this point I decided to give the spread method a try. I put some plastic wrap on my finger and spread the TIM very thin on both the CPU and heatsink. Upon fastening the heatsink I gave it a little rotate wiggle and this method seems way better than the others. I don't see how the pea sized drop has gained so much popularity, it is wildly inconsistent. I think a lot of people forget TIM is to "fill in the gaps" of the unevenness of CPU to heatsink contact. With two super smooth surfaces, my NH-D14 and CPU, it is easy to apply too much TIM. The whole air bubble threat from doing the spread method seems like bullshit to me. You would have to spread it like a dumb ass or have a lumpy heatsink plate to get air trapped.
With the spread method my i5 3570k @ 4.0ghz was stable at 60-62c after an hour of prime 95. With the old 5-7mm dot method of TIM it was 64-66c under the same load. Not a huge difference but I felt more in control of the TIM when I spread it myself instead of rolling the dice with the dot method.
With the spread method my i5 3570k @ 4.0ghz was stable at 60-62c after an hour of prime 95. With the old 5-7mm dot method of TIM it was 64-66c under the same load. Not a huge difference but I felt more in control of the TIM when I spread it myself instead of rolling the dice with the dot method.
BudokaiMR2
Member
Yeah I knew they are backwards and forwards compatible but I have heard that sometimes jumping from PCI-E 2.0 to 3.0 requires a bios update in rare cases. I just heard this from a friend who says he ran into that problem.
my Current Specs:
Aspire m7720
Intel i7 920 / 6gbRAM (DDR3) / Intel x58 / HD4870 1GB/ delta GPS-750AB
I'm honestly not sure exactly what motherboard it is. Surprisingly enough the PSU it came with seems to be 750w.
If you haven't already gotten your answer, the only one I'm aware of is the Accelero Mono Plus granted you'll have to get creative with the spacer application a bit because it doesn't come with the correct sized black ones that the Accelero Twin Turbo II has.
You can tell the 670 FTW is built much better just from pulling the plastic enclosure out of the box. Spinning the FTW's blower fan a litte, I could tell the blower fan itself was much better than those short card ones. Unfortunately if you run above 65% or so fan speed it get's pretty obvious which fan is making the noise.
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In other news, I'm going to be really put off if the 660ti ventures into 670 OC territory. The two cards I have are so average that it's highly likely I'll have buyer's remorse.
I have always done the spread method, but tried the pea drop method on my D14. I have not had to reseat it yet, so I can't say how mine fared. It seems to me that the pea method has a bigger risk of not getting full coverage if you don't use enough in the first place.
I just do not see it. No way they would alienate and piss off the early adopters and high end customers that buy their 400+ dollar cards. The margins on those have to be fantastic, and to jeopardize that would be crazy.
Hopefully.
Won't know til the day it comes out but what's done is done on my end. I'm already put off by the fact that my 670SC stays stable slightly higher than my FTW.
You mean like what they did to the 680 folks?
I can actually see it coming, because the people who bought it already bought it and the money's been made. But yes, a second slap in the face for 680 guys though.
At this point, I think the 650Ti renders the 690 useless really.
Pretty much
You are forgetting Haswell's IGP will put quad SLI to shame
How does upgrading RAM work? Say if you have 8GB and four years later you want to upgrade and let's pretend 8GB doesn't exist. Can I use two 12GB sticks in conjunction with the 8GB or do I have to remove them? Also if it works, does it have to be the same brand and speed/Mhz?
BudokaiMR2
Member
Alright I guess I will put up with this half dead video card for another week while I do some research.
I am not really sire if i will really push the 7850 hard enough to justify the extra money. I don't think my tv will support the really crazy resolutions(I think it will do 1900x1200 at least but that is probably the max.
Might be best to save some money and get the 6850.
Ahhhhh decisions!!!!
Is there a good card with a price range in-between these two?(roughly $160 and $260 in usd)
I am not really sire if i will really push the 7850 hard enough to justify the extra money. I don't think my tv will support the really crazy resolutions(I think it will do 1900x1200 at least but that is probably the max.
Might be best to save some money and get the 6850.
Ahhhhh decisions!!!!
Is there a good card with a price range in-between these two?(roughly $160 and $260 in usd)
What TV is it? 1900x1200 is a monitor resolution. If it's a 1080p TV the 7850 is a great card to pair up with it.
If you're not sure you want to spend as much on a 7850 you could get a 6950
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102987
$189.99 with Rebate which is a good price, it's pretty much on a par with the 7850 at stock clock speeds.
Assuming the newer RAM is faster, it'll be bottlenecked by your older RAM and only run at that speed. As such, the RAM doesn't need to be the same Mhz, but it does have to be the same type (ie. DDR3). Each pair of RAM needs to be the same size (ie 2x4 and 2x6 = ok, but 2x2 and 1x4, 1x2 = no). I still wouldn't recommend mixing and matching RAM though, as in my experience it has caused instability, and you cannot keep tight timings with mismatched RAM pairs. I would suggest just getting all new RAM if you were to upgrade.
Not really. Buy 8GB (2x 4GB) of 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 now, then buy another 8GB (2x 4GB) of 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 in a couple of years. So long as the RAM you're adding has the same specs as the existing RAM, you should be fine.
Edit: If possible, go with the same make and model of RAM for the upgrade.
That'd be stupid, in a "couple of years" DDR3 will just be like DDR2 now, harder to find and more overpriced - By then DDR4 will have taken over.
Always buy the RAM when it's in mass production.
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