Logitech illuminated. The type of switch you are looking for is 'scissor switch'. Google should give you a number of good options.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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RibbedHero
Member
I've got a Herman Miller Aeron at work, I swear its the comfiest chair in the world. Can't quite justify spending 900 quid on a chair for home right now, but hopefully in a few months.
Thanks. Is there any difference between 'chiclet' and 'scissor switch'?
Logitech has this solar-powered (well, more like 'any-lightsource-powered') ultra-thin K750 keyboard. Is that any good?
Dark Octave
Banned
Ok Gaf I need your help. I've got $1,000 to spend on a PC I intend to build. The PC will mainly be for work which involves gaming. What is the absolute best I can get for around that price? It's been about 6 years since I built a PC so I have no clue what is compatible with what nowadays. I appreciate it.
I likey
Dark Octave
Banned
This thread is so old the thought never crossed my mind to go to the OP. Had no idea they updared it so regularly or even at all. So much good info on it. Thank you.Read the OP
In the OP there's a build marked "Excellent", it's pretty much what you're looking for. Might want to wait for the GeForce 660Ti, though, looks to be good value in that price range.
This is the chair I like after checking out Staples
http://www.staples.com/Comfort-Prod...ve-High-Back-Chair-Mocha-Brown/product_864144
Never thought i would consider purchasing a chair for 200bucks. Im using a $40 one right now.
But after seeing some of these chairs, I want to splurge.
http://www.staples.com/Comfort-Prod...ve-High-Back-Chair-Mocha-Brown/product_864144
Never thought i would consider purchasing a chair for 200bucks. Im using a $40 one right now.
But after seeing some of these chairs, I want to splurge.
Dark Octave
Banned
Awesome, thanks for the tip. I'll wait for that. I just read an article saying it comes out this month.
This thread is so amazing. I wish I had something like this when I built my first three PCs. Back then it was a mixture of reading reviews online and picking out parts almost at random at the store.
I keep reading how ATI drivers are unreliable and games tend to be optimized for Nvidia GPUs, so here's my question: is there a good alternative (same price range, same overall performance) to the HD 6870? Looking at the guide I'd have to shoot either lower or higher...
Failing that, are ATI GPUs that much of a hassle?
Failing that, are ATI GPUs that much of a hassle?
Kind of sort of related question here but what kind of chair do you guys use? I have some old basic one from staples but I never really used my desk much before. Now that I have a PC to game on I'm obviously using it more. The chair doesn't recline so I end up slouching which is terrible for my back. I don't want to spend too much but obviously it's going to be used often.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Even though the thread title says "read the OP"? :|
What ever happened to tri-channel memory? editrhetorical question)
Here's my mobo specs:
I am looking into upgrading my RAM on this board. Any suggestions for a ram upgrade?
I do video work on the side and I'm downloading DayZ as we speak.
Also looking for a good SSD if there are any on flash-type deals today.
rhetorical question)Here's my mobo specs:
I am looking into upgrading my RAM on this board. Any suggestions for a ram upgrade?
I do video work on the side and I'm downloading DayZ as we speak.
Also looking for a good SSD if there are any on flash-type deals today.
1) ATi hasn't been around for 3+ years.
2) It's FUD, and mostly wrong.
3) 6870 is still the best part for price
erformance.Some discussion above about this. My best suggestion is to go to a few stores and sit in a ton of chairs. The one that is the most comfortable is the one you should get. Everyone's body is different. However....
Found this exact chair on sale for $120 a year ago. I'm not kidding when I say I'm more comfortable in this than I am my really nice couch. Screw comfy couch gaming, comfy chair is where it's at.
It's not that old. 8 months? But yeah, tons of effort into the OP on Haz's part. Dude is a Saint.
I'm not sure I understand. You slouch because the chair doesn't recline? What does one have to do with the other?
Stomach muscles can't support sitting properly. Has to lean his weight back or sit forward and slouch. I used to have the same problem when I was fat.
1) ATi hasn't been around for 3+ years.
2) It's FUD, and mostly wrong.
3) 6870 is still the best part for price
Holy heck I meant to say AMD. Thank you. 6870 it is then.
Where you got it at. I know it was a sale but Im finding it for 140ish right now.
Are you sure its this exact chair though? Considering most of them look alike.
And to the other guy, I got a 6870, and I agree its the best bang for the buck.
Quick update, just in case someone else has the same issue.
IDE drives do work in AHCI mode, just have to use a Sata converter. Only reason it didn't work for me was that, I plugged in the converter with 2 pins on the side not connected. Now it works perfect. :$
A couple years back I bought an (XFX) HD 5870. I had nothing but problems. Artifacts to begin with but eventually, the entire card would shut down as if it had overheated. I bought a PCI cooling fan and installed it. No dice. I monitored the temperatures and there were no spikes and it ran at normal temps.
Fast-forward through two RMAs. I receive my second RMA-replacement and assume the same issues will crop up as it had with the previous two cards (one retail, one RMA-replacement). At this point, I've given up on AMD/ATi entirely.
To my surprise, the RMA department at XFX sent me a brand new HD 6870. The issues completely disappeared and I obviously got a "free" upgrade. Turned me from an AMD hater to a fanboy in an instant. Couldn't be happer with the HD 6870.
In other words, the HD 6870 is good enough to transform even the staunchest AMD opponent. At least it was in my case.
Edvardelis
Member
Last AMD/ATI driver problem I had was way back with 11.1 and the gray screen of doom. Haven't had issues since, though there was a driver update that caused weird transparency issues in Skyrim (had to change the AA setting for that game).
I did see a problem with my flashed XFX 6950, but I blame that more on ASUS (motherboard refuses to boot with the flashed ROM) than AMD/ATI.
What ever happened to tri-channel memory? edit
Here's my mobo specs:
I am looking into upgrading my RAM on this board. Any suggestions for a ram upgrade?
I do video work on the side and I'm downloading DayZ as we speak.
Also looking for a good SSD if there are any on flash-type deals today.
For gaming 4GB/8GB is fine. For video work, 16GB or 24GB. What CPU have you got in there?
Also, SSD is a huge benefit for video work, you'll be amazed at how much it improves things.
Thanks for the additional impressions guys. Much appreciated.
I don't know much about motherboards, and I'm scratching my head at these 2 models:
- ASRock Z77 Pro3 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...rue&Keywords=(keywords)&Page=1#scrollFullInfo
- ASRock Z77 Pro4 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157296
The Pro3 is obviously cheaper and has fewer features, but other than that what are the main differences between the two? What sort of advantage can I expect if I go for a Pro4 over a Pro3?
Heh, I also got the Pro 4. Bought it on sale so it was $70 I believe.
Can't give you a comparison, but I can say it has exceeded my expectations. Havent had a problem, and ASRock rocks.
More ports on the back of the Pro 4. Like, optical out, some additional video connectors, etc. It might have better VRM design/capacitors too, but I'd imagine that's saved for the Extreme series.
I've got 6GB now (3 x 2GB Tri-channel). To be honest I've fallen out of the loop with hardware options and it looks like they don't produce tri-channel too much anymore. What are my options here, if any?
Here's my CPU: Intel Core i7-920 Bloomfield 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor BX80601920
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
1) ATi hasn't been around for 3+ years.
2) It's FUD, and mostly wrong.
3) 6870 is still the best part for price
Some discussion above about this. My best suggestion is to go to a few stores and sit in a ton of chairs. The one that is the most comfortable is the one you should get. Everyone's body is different. However....
Found this exact chair on sale for $120 a year ago. I'm not kidding when I say I'm more comfortable in this than I am my really nice couch. Screw comfy couch gaming, comfy chair is where it's at.
It's not that old. 8 months? But yeah, tons of effort into the OP on Haz's part. Dude is a Saint.
Drivers aren't really FUD. I'm not saying they're terrible but anytime there have been problems it's an ATI exclusive thing. I've never seen a game that's had problems with nvidia drivers around launch and there is a bug because of nvidia. Pretty uncommon but it's still usually just them. The lack of physx also kind of sucks but not much they can do since Nvidia bought the technology. They're definitely not bad cards but for the same exact price I would definitely take Nvidia.
I just bought a Pro3 a few weeks ago. I believe it has a 4+1 power multiplier which is supposedly less than ideal for overclocking. I don't really know much about that. It also has one 16x PCIE slot and one 4X, so you will suffer about a 20% performance hit if you ever decide to crossfire.
It's hard to find anyone talking about hardware that's more on the budget side, but it seems fine for my purposes. May even add a second 6870 to it someday despite the supposed performance hit.
If someone could clear the air about what a 4+1 power multiplier is I would appreciate it, since I have a 3570k
Keep in mind that you don't have to buy "tri-channel RAM", the motherboard is just set up to work in tri-channel mode when you have 3 (or 6) sticks of RAM installed. It should also run in dual-channel mode when you have 2 or 4 sticks installed, and single-channel when you've got 1 or 5 sticks installed (all of these depend on using the correct RAM slots, something which you should check your motherboard's manual to be sure of).
If you want to go the whole hog on 24GB of RAM, you can buy this and this, which will work in full tri-channel mode. Alternatively, you could just pick up the former if you don't feel the need for more than 16GB and you're okay with the decrease in bandwidth. You could also pair the latter with one of these for 12 GB working at tri-channel speeds.
Infinite Justice
Member
Got in my Power supply and CPU cooler and there is one word to cover both of them: HUGE :O
Maybe its just me being away from Computer Parts/Repairs stuff for a long while now but the power supply looks larger than i remember. Could just be dem mind games.
My quest is going slowly but surely and i still have some stuff to get.
Maybe its just me being away from Computer Parts/Repairs stuff for a long while now but the power supply looks larger than i remember. Could just be dem mind games.
My quest is going slowly but surely and i still have some stuff to get.
Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure about the dual-channel compatibility. I naively thought it was tri-or-nothing.
I'll look into the options you posted, but I'm leaning towards the 24GB.
Thanks. The 4+1 multiplier thing is the first thing that caught my eye, figured it had an impact on overclocking. In that case I'll go with the Pro4.
I'm just lost here. I look at the overclocking guide and feel overwhelmed. All these things to configure there, and yet another video I watch says don't touch a bunch of that stuff, just 3 to 4 main things. Only problem is that in that video, the guy is using a different mobo than my Asus P8 Z77. So things are titled differently. I'm just afraid to screw anything up here. Anyone just able to tell me what I should be comfy setting it to with that mobo and a 3570 k?
There's a couple of 'sales-ey' videos on Youtube with an Asus guy selling how to OC on an Asus Z77 board on IvyBridge (like your 3570K).
Here's one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mkGQhE1o2w
I think there's at least one other video by the same Asus rep sitting down with a different store (PCParts or something).
It might get you frequented with what the important bits of the UEFI look like, what buttons to press or look out for. I don't know how advisable their approach is (let the system clock itself first, then go in an tweak those numbers). Someone who knows their shit should comment on that.
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I have a quick question! I want to plug my unfinished build in and look at pretty lights (also see if I've hooked the fans up properly).
It is a full build minus HDD, SSD and Operating System. If I bang a mouse/keyboard in there and hook up my monitor, should I be able to boot to BIOS okay? Is this a pointless idea or is there anything useful I could look at/test?
Here's one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mkGQhE1o2w
I think there's at least one other video by the same Asus rep sitting down with a different store (PCParts or something).
It might get you frequented with what the important bits of the UEFI look like, what buttons to press or look out for. I don't know how advisable their approach is (let the system clock itself first, then go in an tweak those numbers). Someone who knows their shit should comment on that.
###
I have a quick question! I want to plug my unfinished build in and look at pretty lights (also see if I've hooked the fans up properly).
It is a full build minus HDD, SSD and Operating System. If I bang a mouse/keyboard in there and hook up my monitor, should I be able to boot to BIOS okay? Is this a pointless idea or is there anything useful I could look at/test?
If you have a decent aftermarket cooler, start at 43 multiplier and 1.2V. If not stable, increase volts. If stable, decrease volts until no longer stable, then go one back.
This looks like a pretty good guide too.
If you don't want to learn about the process, just skip down to Step #1 in that guide, and go from there.
Well then thank goodness they're not around anymore!
As said above, kits are simply three or six sticks of the same RAM they package in dual or quad channel packages.
The only things you should have to worry about are the multiplier, core voltage, load line calibration, and temps/stability. Leave base clock alone at 100mhz. Also make sure your ram is set to it's specified clock/volts.
There should be an option for CPU Ratio or Multiplier. Look in your manual if you can't find it.
RibbedHero
Member
Another thing that's worth looking into: your CPU and motherboard may actually support 48GB of RAM. The specs of both will list a 24GB maximum, but that was probably because consumer 8GB sticks weren't around at the time. I did a quick google search, and it seems people have got 48GB working on X58 motherboards, but it would probably be worth checking if anyone's tried it on your particular model.
Anyway, even if you don't want or need 48GB now, you could go with three 8GB sticks, so that you still have three slots free for another upgrade later on.
Did a search for a thread, but I can't find it. I need some help with a couple of 2.5" SATA drives.
They both work on OS X just fine, but when I hook it up to my Windows machine, one of the drives starts clicking. The other drive is silent, but it's not showing up at all, even on Disk Management. The data light blinks on occasion on the external drive shell, so there's some communication going on. The hell is going on?
They both work on OS X just fine, but when I hook it up to my Windows machine, one of the drives starts clicking. The other drive is silent, but it's not showing up at all, even on Disk Management. The data light blinks on occasion on the external drive shell, so there's some communication going on. The hell is going on?
Well guys, I must have goofed up something because it crashed. Had to restart and when did, it said overclock failed and to go to Setup. Set the cores to 43 and the voltage to 1.2. That was the first crash after going to the desktop. Then I lowered it to 0.800 and that's when it didn't even try to go anywhere, just black screened on me. Load line was set to "regular". I'm sure I'm doing and or missing something being so new/dumb at this.
The clicking one is FAT, the silent one is ExFAT. And yes, I checked Disk Management, and used it on the three ports on the front of my PC.
However, having just thought of it, I tried it on the USB ports on the back and both work on those. Correct me if I'm wrong, but does that mean there isn't enough power on the front to support those drives, or is there more to it?
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