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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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I recently just built my computer (like some of ya know) and I'm kind of feeling that around startup it's kind of slow.

When I made my computer and started it up, I never made a partition on my drive... Could that have any effect?

Also, my computer is technically faster than my school computers, but it seems to be running maya slower -- I'm not sure why. Is there a way to check if my ram/cpu/ect is running at what it should be and I didn't install it wrong?
 

MrBig

Member
So I did a little looking tonight, and here's a build I came up with, based somewhat off of the Standard setup in the OP...



I mean, I didn't plan on spending $900...

Is there anything I could do to knock a few hundred bucks off that sticker, and still manage to play Skyrim at a decent clip?

Thanks in advance.

PS - thanks Thraktor for the earlier advice.

Check the OP. You can do much better with less money.
 

knitoe

Member
I recently just built my computer (like some of ya know) and I'm kind of feeling that around startup it's kind of slow.

When I made my computer and started it up, I never made a partition on my drive... Could that have any effect?

Also, my computer is technically faster than my school computers, but it seems to be running maya slower -- I'm not sure why. Is there a way to check if my ram/cpu/ect is running at what it should be and I didn't install it wrong?

Boot time shouldn't really be affected by not having the OS on seperate partition. When you say slow are you talking from pushing power button to Windows desktop or from Windows start logo to desktop?

If first, your MB could be running checks and/or displaying info which would slow down the bootup. Go into the bios, select fast boot/display less info and disable any pheriphals you aren't using, like a second storage controller, onboard sound and etc.

If its the later, could be driver and/or hardware conflict. Check in device manager and see if Windows show any problems. Try reinstalling MB and graphic card drivers.

As for you maya issue, tell us your school and your home computer spec. Wihout that info, I can only guess that the school computer has more ram, a more core/thread CPU, professional graphic card and/or faster storage device
 

eso76

Member
Finally, it's alive !

Case: Cooler Master Stacker
PSU: Cooler Master 500W Modular 80plus (not the best i've heard but it was a deal)
Mobo: Asus P6T WS Pro
CPU: Intel i7 940 (with bonus huge extreme heatsink, so maybe i could try to OC)
Ram: 6GB DDR3 (soon to be 12)
Storege: Hitachi 2TB (waiting for a replacement to a faulty Samsung F3) + 1TB WD
GPU: Nvidia GTX 460 1GB DDR5 (mostly interested in Adobe suite products and motion graphics apps, no gaming so should be good enough)
Wireless 300N PCI Card

Consisting in new and used parts, for the amount of 450 €
 

Thraktor

Member
So I did a little looking tonight, and here's a build I came up with, based somewhat off of the Standard setup in the OP...



I mean, I didn't plan on spending $900...

Is there anything I could do to knock a few hundred bucks off that sticker, and still manage to play Skyrim at a decent clip?

Thanks in advance.

PS - thanks Thraktor for the earlier advice.

Do you have a specific reason for needing a DVD drive? If not then drop it.

On the graphics card front, NCIX have a Radeon 6850 for $129.99, which will actually get you slightly better performance in Skyrim, and save you some money at the same time.

You might also be able to drop down to 4GB of RAM. Should be fine for Skyrim (the game could actually only use 2GB on release).

Might be worth looking at motherboard prices as well, if you're not overclocking then motherboards from decent manufacturers all do pretty much the same thing, unless you particularly need loads of PCIe slots and/or USB ports.

Edit: This motherboard should do the job for less.

Edit 2: So should this PSU.

Edit 3: For cases, look at this and this. Cases are really going to be a matter of preference on your part. With a micro ATX motherboard (like the one you have in your list, or the one I linked to) you can go with a smaller mATX case as well if you want (eg. the second case I just linked to).

Check the OP. You can do much better with less money.

Canadian prices. Those of us outside the US have to pay more for things.
 

Noaloha

Member
I was titting around in the BIOS of a half-built machine last night and I saw something puzzling in the DRAM information. It stated that the speed-thingy of the RAM was 1333MHz, yet the RAM is (should be!) 1600MHz. Then there was another bit of information to the side which said something like +XMP1 = 1600MHz, as if it was an option that needed to enabled to reach the 1600.

Is this normal? Like, the board will be defaulting to a 1333 value for some reason but can allow the 1600 to come through if selected? Or does it imply that the RAM itself is actually 1333 and I got a mispackaged pair of sticks? The product I purchased and the packaging itself definitely states that it is 1600 RAM.

I can't provide a screenshot unfortunately since there's no actual OS or storage.


As an aside, is boosting that RAM speed thingy worthwhile? Tutorials seem to make it look very easy, taking a speed of 1600 up to around 2000-2133 with just a button press. But is there much point to it simply from a gaming perspective with 8 gigs of the stuff?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Anything over 1333 on SB/IB is an overclock. You need to select XMP in order to run at the supposed speeds. If you're looking at ram over 1600MHz, you even have to manually overclock it at times to get the advertised speeds.

It's also unlikely that RAM will be able to go over advertised speeds unless you're talking about the Samsung 30nm god-tier RAM. The memory controller on SB/IB is a pile of garbage, so it can't really handle that kind of overclocking. It's the same reason you don't touch your BUS and only use the multiplier to overclock.
 

Noaloha

Member
Phew! I was hoping it was something like that. And what about OCing it even beyond 1600. I see people talking about doing on other forums but is that just an enthusiast sort of thing for getting pretty benchmark numbers?
 

Ultrabum

Member
Got me a Samsung 830 SSD at that price. Is 128gb ssd and 1tb enough for a gamer?

It's plenty of space, just make sure to put os and the games you play the most on the ssd, and music and movies on the hdd.

Also maybe read up on symbolic links if you start to run out of space.
 
I'm hearing the Corsair HX v2 series is good but it's pretty much the same as the first version. The main difference is that its now Gold rated instead of Silver, but the old HX series achieved Gold standards too.

My main question is this: is it worth it spending £115 instead of £100 on the newer version of the HX750 instead of the older version? I'm thinking no, seeing as by and large their the same product, it's just that Corsair has made a few minor alterations and bumped up the price.
 

Noaloha

Member
jSC6MoCcgfZ8j.jpg


This feels like a reeeally stupid question but,

My card has those power inputs, 2x8-pin. My PSU has two PCI-E power leads. Do I connect both so that all 16 pinsockets on the card are used?

If so, and more out of interest than anything, what would I do if I was running two cards (since the PSU only has the two power leads, each with an 8-pin)?

Incidentally, that white rectangle in the photo is an intensely annoying and ugly non-peelable barcode sticker.
 

mkenyon

Banned
This feels like a reeeally stupid question but,

My card has those power inputs, 2x8-pin. My PSU has two PCI-E power leads. Do I connect both so that all 16 pinsockets on the card are used?

If so, and more out of interest than anything, what would I do if I was running two cards (since the PSU only has the two power leads, each with an 8-pin)?

Incidentally, that white rectangle in the photo is an intensely annoying and ugly non-peelable barcode sticker.
1) Yes
2) You would need a different PSU.
Phew! I was hoping it was something like that. And what about OCing it even beyond 1600. I see people talking about doing on other forums but is that just an enthusiast sort of thing for getting pretty benchmark numbers?
Yep, benches only.
I'm hearing the Corsair HX v2 series is good but it's pretty much the same as the first version. The main difference is that its now Gold rated instead of Silver, but the old HX series achieved Gold standards too.

My main question is this: is it worth it spending £115 instead of £100 on the newer version of the HX750 instead of the older version? I'm thinking no, seeing as by and large their the same product, it's just that Corsair has made a few minor alterations and bumped up the price.
Previous HX series was Bronze. It's only worth it if power efficiency is worth it. The previous version is a stupid amazing model. I have one that I bought on launch week that's been used extremely heavily for a long while. Still kickin ass and taking names.
 
Can I connect a USB 3.0 front port to a USB 2 port on my motherboard? Are they pinned out the same?

Edit: Nvm, completely different connector, I was looking at the wrong wire.
 
Previous HX series was Bronze. It's only worth it if power efficiency is worth it. The previous version is a stupid amazing model. I have one that I bought on launch week that's been used extremely heavily for a long while. Still kickin ass and taking names.

Old version (it might be different here in the UK/Europe) was Silver rated, in which case the difference is even smaller. I'm going for the older version then. Cheers.
 
This feels like a reeeally stupid question but,

My card has those power inputs, 2x8-pin. My PSU has two PCI-E power leads. Do I connect both so that all 16 pinsockets on the card are used?

If so, and more out of interest than anything, what would I do if I was running two cards (since the PSU only has the two power leads, each with an 8-pin)?

Incidentally, that white rectangle in the photo is an intensely annoying and ugly non-peelable barcode sticker.

Yes, connect them both to the card.

Most cards come with Molex-PCI-E power adaptors for SLI setups. They look like this:

RDGy4.jpg
 
I have an NZXT Hades case (a mistaken purchase I now see) with CPU clearance of 165mm without the 200mm side fan, and 131.5mm with the side fan. Any idea if it'd be better to use a Hyper 212 EVO sans fan, or use a shorter heatsink while keeping the fan on?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Depends mostly. Those side fans are really good for the open-style non-reference video cards. If you are just running one card, or even two reference style cards in SLI, there's no real need for it.
 

Smokey

Member
mkenyon said:
Heads up on two ridiculous deals.

Samsung 830 128GB for $99 - promo code EMCNBNH45

I'm using the Intel 320 160GB SSD. It's Sata II and there's better SSDs out now. So I'm thinking of replacing the boot drive and replacing my 2TB HDD with SSD and going solid all the way.

Probably something along the lines of

90GB - Boot drive
512GB - Game Drive
512GB - Media Drive

or the boot drive and only 1 512GB for both games and media and see how far that gets me. Samsung 830 or Corsair GT/GS? Or are they both fast enough to the point that there isn't really a difference?
 

Spl1nter

Member
Is it normal for your hd to be the loudest part of your computer? Can barely hear any of the CPU/GPU or case fans but can always hear the hd. I almost want to buy a ssd just so I dont have to hear it.
 

Mr Swine

Banned
So guys I need to retire (or rather give away) my old laptop that has an old dual core CPU, I think it's called Intel Centrino or something similar. I can surf on it but it's so slow when I need to do stuff for school on it. Having more than 10 tabs on chrome will slow the laptop down so it becomes bothersome for me.

So I wonder what is best to buy, a Dual Core Ivy Bridge Laptop or a Quad Core Ivy Bridge Laptop?
 

mkenyon

Banned
So guys I need to retire (or rather give away) my old laptop that has an old dual core CPU, I think it's called Intel Centrino or something similar. I can surf on it but it's so slow when I need to do stuff for school on it. Having more than 10 tabs on chrome will slow the laptop down so it becomes bothersome for me.

So I wonder what is best to buy, a Dual Core Ivy Bridge Laptop or a Quad Core Ivy Bridge Laptop?
Laptop thread, top of the OP there's a link.
Just finished moving everything to my new case. So much nicer now! :D
Grats! 690II, right?

I'm using the Intel 320 160GB SSD. It's Sata II and there's better SSDs out now. So I'm thinking of replacing the boot drive and replacing my 2TB HDD with SSD and going solid all the way.

Probably something along the lines of

90GB - Boot drive
512GB - Game Drive
512GB - Media Drive

or the boot drive and only 1 512GB for both games and media and see how far that gets me. Samsung 830 or Corsair GT/GS? Or are they both fast enough to the point that there isn't really a difference?
I can't tell a difference between the two.

Have you though about moving your storage drives to a NAS box?

Is it normal for your hd to be the loudest part of your computer? Can barely hear any of the CPU/GPU or case fans but can always hear the hd. I almost want to buy a ssd just so I dont have to hear it.
Depends, but yeah, they can be annoying. You might want to check your mounting system to see if you can improve it.
 

kilongs

Member
I understand the reason for seperating data(docs, pics, vids, etc) onto a seperate drive, but what is the reason for installing games and/or applications on a seperate hard drive than the OS? If you have to rebuild the OS, won't you have to reinstall the games and apps again anyway?
 

Jburton

Banned
Running real temp I have noticed my i5-2500k has idle temp spikes from the average 32c up to 40c on one of the cores (32 to 35 on another and up to 33 on the other two).

I have spy bot and MSSE running actively and that's it.

Is this normal?
 
Laptop thread, top of the OP there's a link.

Grats! 690II, right?


I can't tell a difference between the two.

Have you though about moving your storage drives to a NAS box?


Depends, but yeah, they can be annoying. You might want to check your mounting system to see if you can improve it.

Yup! So much nicer than my old case, I should have done this a while ago.
 

cametall

Member
Got me a Samsung 830 SSD at that price. Is 128gb ssd and 1tb enough for a gamer?

More than enough.

Look up Steam Mover (you can use it on other games/programs than Steam games too). It can easily move programs from the SSD to the mechanical and back for you.
 
Need quick insight on an internal SATA card for my WHS:

I'm looking for a SATA card with at least 1 esata external port and 2 internal SATA ports, that doesn't run on a Silicon Image 3114 chip (WHS v1 doesn't like it).

Will the following card (SYBA SD-SATA2-2E2I) allow me to connect 2 internal sata devices and 2 esata devices at the same time, or am I only allowed a maximum of any 2 ports at one time?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124003

Here's the card's manual:

http://www.sybausa.com/resource/SD-SATA2-2E2I/SD-SATA2-2E2I Manual.JPG

Any ideas?
 

MrBig

Member
More than enough.

Look up Steam Mover (you can use it on other games/programs than Steam games too). It can easily move programs from the SSD to the mechanical and back for you.

Best to install Steam to the HDD so that you only have stuff you really want on the SSD.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I have not. What would bf the benefits of doing so? This all kind of came to me today when I saw the 830 on sale.
You can stick multiple HDD's in a redundant array (RAID5) that all gets automated and handled by some pretty slick software, such as FREENAS. Assuming you have some fancy wireless card like the Apple TV or wired gigabit, it's essentially an external HDD attached to every device in your house.

FREENAS alllows you to do some pretty cool stuff, such as streaming to tablets/phones, automated .nbz downloading based on bookmarks, and even notifies you if it detects errors with one of the drives.

This allows you to remove HDD's from any sort of build, which really frees up the space in a computer case as well as removes a fairly loud part from it.
 
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