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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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knitoe

Member
A few days ago I sought advices and now I finished building my new rig:

Total spent: ~820€

  • CPU Intel Core i5-2500K €199,64
  • RAM Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9 2x4GB €54,90
  • MOBO Asus P8Z77-V LE €128,25
  • GPU Sapphire HD7850 2GB €216,13
  • PSU Antec VP 450W € 47,21
  • CASE Cooler Master Elite 430 € 48,50
  • SSD Samsung 830 128GB € 122,84




I'm very happy: I'm playing Battlefield 3 on MAX settings at 1440x900 at solid 60fps and the OS starts in 30 seconds or less.
Thanks everyone!

I have one last question: air from fans should be taken from outside and pumped into the case or the opposite is a better solution?
I have one fan in the front of the case (the one with the LED) that pumps air inside and one other cheap fan at the top of the case (the first hole in the third image) that sucks the heat from the CPU: what solution is better?

Should I move the LED fan to the side?
Generally, you want is to create airflow from front/bottom to top/back. Thus, what you current have is correct.

And, you might want to get an 3rd CPU cooler and overclock the CPU to ~4.5GHz. It does make a huge difference from stock speed.
 

Ledsen

Member
A few days ago I sought advices and now I finished building my new rig:

Total spent: ~820€

  • CPU Intel Core i5-2500K €199,64
  • RAM Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9 2x4GB €54,90
  • MOBO Asus P8Z77-V LE €128,25
  • GPU Sapphire HD7850 2GB €216,13
  • PSU Antec VP 450W € 47,21
  • CASE Cooler Master Elite 430 € 48,50
  • SSD Samsung 830 128GB € 122,84


jjmW9m.jpg
bJOyUm.jpg
mGPqnm.jpg


I'm very happy: I'm playing Battlefield 3 on MAX settings at 1440x900 at solid 60fps and the OS starts in 30 seconds or less.
Thanks everyone!

I have one last question: air from fans should be taken from outside and pumped into the case or the opposite is a better solution?
I have one fan in the front of the case (the one with the LED) that pumps air inside and one other cheap fan at the top of the case (the first hole in the third image) that sucks the heat from the CPU: what solution is better?

Should I move the LED fan to the side?

If you don't have a normal hdd that needs cooling, it's better to put the intake fan on the side since thatll be closer to the rear exhaust and the airflows will interact better.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
A few questions.

1. Is the BIOSTAR TZ77B overkill for an i5-2400 if I don't plan to overclock? I was interested in the ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM, but only two ram slots is a big negative. Maybe something in between these two boards?

2. I'm finally upgrading to Windows 7 from XP and seems authentication is more picky with hardware changes not just tied to the motherboard. Will I have trouble installing OEM copy on a different hard drive if I plan to upgrade my hard drive in the future? So OEM, Upgrade or Full windows 7? 32 or 64bit Windows 7?
I'd go with the Biostar and a used 2500K if you a bit thin on cash. It's a much better board and a 2500K has a lot more resale value and you'll be able to overclock to 4.2Ghz later if/when you want to.

I think you can always do a double install with upgrade copies (i.e. Upgrade your unverified upgrade install). But don't quote me on that.
I definitely need a NEW pc as well.

My current set up. (Weak Sauce 101)

Win 7 home 64 bit
Gigabyte M68MT-D3 Motherboard
AMD Athlon II X3 445 3.0 Ghz
4 Gb DDR3 ram
Nvidia Geforce GTX 460 1 Gb

Without doing a complete new set up where should I start first?
That should be a pretty solid rig. What are you having issues with?
I'd start by seeing if you can unlock the 4th core on your CPU, then overclocking your CPU and GPU.
Dropping in a 650/660 in the next month probably is your best bet if you aren't being CPU limited in anything.
A few days ago I sought advices and now I finished building my new rig:

I'm very happy: I'm playing Battlefield 3 on MAX settings at 1440x900 at solid 60fps and the OS starts in 30 seconds or less.
Thanks everyone!

I have one last question: air from fans should be taken from outside and pumped into the case or the opposite is a better solution?
I have one fan in the front of the case (the one with the LED) that pumps air inside and one other cheap fan at the top of the case (the first hole in the third image) that sucks the heat from the CPU: what solution is better?

Should I move the LED fan to the side?
:)
If you only have 2 fans, run a side intake and a rear or top exhaust.
 

ReaperXL7

Member
Ok Gaf, here is the situation. I am currently planning on selling my PS3 and games for a variety of reasons. I find myself playing games on it less, and less, and in many ways it just does not feel like it's worth it to own a dedicated console anymore.

I want to pick up a PC for many things. I need something for music editing, gaming, streaming, and general uses primarily. It also helps when I see the PC screenshots thread and realise how much better performance side stuff in gaming is altogether. With the combination of free games, services like GOG, Steam, emulation, and similar pricing seems like it would overall be better aswell on the gaming side. I have low knowledge on the Tech side when it comes to building a PC, I don't know what things like Benchmarks are, or Overclocking is. So hopefully someone can help me out here as there seems to be alot of information here to go through.

( I am currently reading through the OP, and the thread in general), but here is what my plan is as per the OPs suggestion.

Build plan:

Your Current Specs: Currently I only have my laptop, it can run WOW, an EVE but struggles at times.

Budget: around $1000/$1500, and I live in the US.

Main Use:
Music Editing 5
Gaming 5,
Emulation (PS2/Wii) 3,
Video Editing 2,
HD Streaming 3,
General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 4.

Monitor Resolution: Don't currently have a monitor as I don't have a desktop, My preference would be to hook up my new PC to my plasma, If I buy a monitor it will probably be 1080p.

List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: I figure Skyrim will be much more worth it to the PS3 version, and the Mods of course will help things allot in terms of things Beth did not get right. Eve Online (Preferably at Max settings), Witcher 2, Just Cause 2, Assassins Creed 3, Borderlands 2, Farcry 3, Ultima VII, etc. I love Openworld sandbox games, and RPGs the most so those will be my primary pick ups in most cases.

Does anyone know off hand if Skies of Arcadia compatible with the Dolphin emulator?

Looking to reuse any parts?: No, don't currently have a desktop

What time frames are doable? I will most likely be scouting for parts for awhile as I won't be buying everything until income tax season next year (probably feburary), it is possible I could make it happen around chirstmas time depending on a few things.

Will you be overclocking?: Maybe i'm not really sure what overclocking is....

Any help in this reguard is much appreciated, i'm still searching through newegg to get an idea of pricing, but I thought Gaf would be a good resource for this.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
If you aren't building for 4-6 months then stop by then.

However the parts shouldn't change much (if at all) for the Enthusiast Build (Possibly with a 3570K instead of a 3770K).
 

psy18

Member
Quick question about monitor:

Is there any drawback using 1080p LED/LCD TV as your monitor compared to "dedicated" monitors?
 

Thraktor

Member
Quick question about monitor:

Is there any drawback using 1080p LED/LCD TV as your monitor compared to "dedicated" monitors?

Not really. Of course, it depends on what TV you're comparing to what monitor, but a lot of the time they're pretty much the same thing, and some of the time (eg many Samsung monitors), they're literally the same thing.
 

CatPee

Member
Quick question about monitor:

Is there any drawback using 1080p LED/LCD TV as your monitor compared to "dedicated" monitors?

Not usually. If you're unlucky though, your TV might have overscan issues that aren't fixable like mine and make HDMI unusable.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Quick question about monitor:

Is there any drawback using 1080p LED/LCD TV as your monitor compared to "dedicated" monitors?
Yes. They don't make 120hz TVs. :)

But really, the only disadvantage is viewing distance and needing to increase font/icon/UI size. Despite being a 46" 1080p TV, I think the real estate is more like 700p on my HTPC. Playing some games where you would want larger text/UI can be difficult as well.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Just a question: any advantage to playing pC games on a 120Hz TV? Or ones with a "120Hz mode" or whatever? I'm talking about games you can actually run at that framerate.
 

mkenyon

Banned
There is no TV that can display a 120hz image. Its marketing bullshit, and the TV uses post processing to alter the image in order to mimic 120hz. All it does is blur the image and add input lag.
 

meganova

Neo Member
Hi,

I have to make a "tough" decision, I currently have a 4870 i5-750 4gbram. I play at 1650x1080.

And i want to know what is better: upgrade for the current year releases (Dark souls, Borderlands 2, Sleeping dogs...) buying a 560ti, and then when watch_dogs releases, upgrade the graphic card, or buy a 660ti, then maybe upgrade the cpu + mobo next year, when the game releases.

What do you think? Will the 660ti bottleneck my current system?

Thanks in advance.
 

Akkad

Banned
There is no TV that can display a 120hz image. Its marketing bullshit, and the TV uses post processing to alter the image in order to mimic 120hz. All it does is blur the image and add input lag.

You love killing hopes and dreams, don't you? LOL.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
There is no TV that can display a 120hz image. Its marketing bullshit, and the TV uses post processing to alter the image in order to mimic 120hz. All it does is blur the image and add input lag.

So that's why the modes make movies look like cheap video productions and not like, y'know, cinema?
 

sgi02

Banned
Hi,

I have to make a "tough" decision, I currently have a 4870 i5-750 4gbram. I play at 1650x1080.

And i want to know what is better: upgrade for the current year releases (Dark souls, Borderlands 2, Sleeping dogs...) buying a 560ti, and then when watch_dogs releases, upgrade the graphic card, or buy a 660ti, then maybe upgrade the cpu + mobo next year, when the game releases.

What do you think? Will the 660ti bottleneck my current system?

Thanks in advance.

We cant really provide any useful insight to the 660Ti as its not out yet. The early review of the 660 from Tweaktown leaves a lot to be desired, however, with that being said it looks to be a very capable midrange option. More reviews will be out in a week or two. Wait for the official reviews, watch the market change and make your decision from there.

Postscript - Judging from the performance of the 670 on older hardware, your i5 might prove to be a slight bottleneck, but in my opinion not enough to negate the performance benefits it would bring you.
 

mkenyon

Banned
You love killing hopes and dreams, don't you? LOL.
Well, before I did my research and knew this, I bought a 120hz TV and brought it home all excited to be rocking a 46" 120hz display. I tried for three days to get it to work. Then I found out the truth.

That heartbreak created a lot of bitterness and resentment. I'm trying to save people from the pain I felt.

When there is a display port enabled 120hz TV, day one perch. As it is, HDMI can not display 120hz images.
 
So, my relatively new GPU (Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Ti, not OC'd) has been regularly crashing my games when it reaches around 55 - 59°C under a full load. I've gone back to older drivers, newer drivers, etc. Also, I've tried adjusting the fan speed via MSi Afterburner to try to curb the temps, but it's still happening.

Is this something I'm going to have to RMA?
 
So, my relatively new GPU (Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Ti, not OC'd) has been regularly crashing my games when it reaches around 55 - 59°C under a full load. I've gone back to older drivers, newer drivers, etc. Also, I've tried adjusting the fan speed via MSi Afterburner to try to curb the temps, but it's still happening.

Is this something I'm going to have to RMA?

59 degrees is an extremely acceptable temp to have. Time to start sending some emails.
 

Sid

Member
So, my relatively new GPU (Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Ti, not OC'd) has been regularly crashing my games when it reaches around 55 - 59°C under a full load. I've gone back to older drivers, newer drivers, etc. Also, I've tried adjusting the fan speed via MSi Afterburner to try to curb the temps, but it's still happening.

Is this something I'm going to have to RMA?

My 580 runs as hot as 85°c in various games,i think you have a faulty card
 
Thanks for the responses. I would think going through Amazon would be better for a faster turnaround, rather than trying to RMA directly with Gigabyte, right?

If amazon lets you, I would definitely go for that option. When I RMA videocards to manufacturers, it usually takes about 3 weeks (though I'm in Canada).
 
So, my relatively new GPU (Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Ti, not OC'd) has been regularly crashing my games when it reaches around 55 - 59°C under a full load. I've gone back to older drivers, newer drivers, etc. Also, I've tried adjusting the fan speed via MSi Afterburner to try to curb the temps, but it's still happening.

Is this something I'm going to have to RMA?
Check if there are any BIOS updates available first. Fixed issues with both my previous cards.
 

Veal

Member
Someone please tell me if this is a bad/useless idea: Using a SP fan to push air through a radiator, then using an airflow fan to for exhaust. Push/pull config.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Someone please tell me if this is a bad/useless idea: Using a SP fan to push air through a radiator, then using an airflow fan to for exhaust. Push/pull config.

Bad bad. Always want the exact same fan running the exact same speeds on push/pull. Also, it doesn't have any noticeable effect on temperatures unless you're talking about a really high FPI (fins per inch) radiator that is 35+mm, or a really thick radiator in the range of 60-80mm. Mostly, the reason why you do push:pull is to be able to spin down both sets of fans to low RPM and maintain a similar pressure rating to one high speed fan. The effect quickly diminishes, which is why two high speed fans aren't really that helpful.
 
Check if there are any BIOS updates available first. Fixed issues with both my previous cards.
Thanks! This seems to have alleviated the issues. I tried a Just Cause 2 benchmark and played an hour of Saints Row (biggest offender), and the max load hovered around 80% instead of 99%. Never crashed.

I may still try a replacement through Amazon, just to be safe.
 

Prodigal

Banned
So when removing the sata cable from one of my hdds it appears as though part of the slot thing on the hdd came with it. Now just the pins are exposed on the sata slot...am I screwed?

Edit: Looks like I can still slide the cable onto the pins and have it work but it's real loose. Electrical tape perhaps?
 

kennah

Member
Took my first ever trip to a Microcenter today (I'm Canadian).

Bought some of that sweet sweet 30nm Samsung RAM for about 15$ less than I'd get it for back home.

Was really realllly tempted by the 2500k for $159, but holding out for a used one.

mkenyon, yeah, buying your motherboard I guess, since I got the RAM for it :)
 
Has anyone managed to run UT2004 at 120Hz? Regardless of settings I keep getting a 90 fps lock in multiplayer games, even though the menus give me proper 120 fps. I changed the settings in two of my ini files, but that didn't help.
 

Stumpokapow

listen to the mad man
My old 4850 got the shit kicked out of it during a cross-country move. Now anything using the GPU has artifacting like crazy. Popped on a few episodes of TV and got red dancing dots all over the monitor. Doesn't seem to e the monitor. GPU has always been dusty but I cleared out the bulk of the dust web I set up up here.

1) Does it sound like the GPU is dying?

2) what's the cheapest GPU that is at least as powerful as a 4850? I'm assuming there's a newer card that's more budget but comparably powerful after all this time. Don't care about ATI/nVidia

3) what's the video card sweet spot right now? I'm willing to entertain upgrading but to be honest I'm pretty broke.
 

kennah

Member
My old 4850 got the shit kicked out of it during a cross-country move. Now anything using the GPU has artifacting like crazy. Popped on a few episodes of TV and got red dancing dots all over the monitor. Doesn't seem to e the monitor. GPU has always been dusty but I cleared out the bulk of the dust web I set up up here.

1) Does it sound like the GPU is dying?

2) what's the cheapest GPU that is at least as powerful as a 4850? I'm assuming there's a newer card that's more budget but comparably powerful after all this time. Don't care about ATI/nVidia

3) what's the video card sweet spot right now? I'm willing to entertain upgrading but to be honest I'm pretty broke.

Want my 6850 for $100 shipped? I'm also in Canadia. It's the kinda same class as the 4850, does DX11 and is generally recommended as the best price/performance these days for the cheap cards. Just got one of g35twinturbo's 570s, so I haven't even put mine up on the kijijis yet.
 

Veal

Member
Bad bad. Always want the exact same fan running the exact same speeds on push/pull. Also, it doesn't have any noticeable effect on temperatures unless you're talking about a really high FPI (fins per inch) radiator that is 35+mm, or a really thick radiator in the range of 60-80mm. Mostly, the reason why you do push:pull is to be able to spin down both sets of fans to low RPM and maintain a similar pressure rating to one high speed fan. The effect quickly diminishes, which is why two high speed fans aren't really that helpful.

Thanks for the explanation!
 

Caramuru

Neo Member
Guys, I have some doubts about temps in my first build ever.

Specs:
CPU: i5 3570K @ 3.8 GHz
CPU Heatsink: CM Hyper 212 EVO
GPU: EVGA GTX 670 FTW (no over)
Case: Corsair 500R (no opitional fans installed yet)

HWMonitor Temps:

(Idle)
Core1: 34º-36º (jumps to 44º-47º sometimes for a few seconds)
Core2-4: 30º-34º
GPU: 38º-43º (Usually 39º-40º at 30% speed fan)

(After an hour of gaming)
Core1: 68º
GPU: 82º (at 59% speed fan)

Are these temps normal? Well, I can change the GPU's stock speed fan by software, but what about the CPU temps?
 

MrBig

Member
Guys, I have some doubts about temps in my first build ever.

Specs:
CPU: i5 3570K @ 3.8 GHz
CPU Heatsink: CM Hyper 212 EVO
GPU: EVGA GTX 670 FTW (no over)
Case: Corsair 500R (no opitional fans installed yet)

HWMonitor Temps:

(Idle)
Core1: 34º-36º (jumps to 44º-47º sometimes for a few seconds)
Core2-4: 30º-34º
GPU: 38º-43º (Usually 39º-40º at 30% speed fan)

(After an hour of gaming)
Core1: 68º
GPU: 82º (at 59% speed fan)

Are these temps normal? Well, I can change the GPU's stock speed fan by software, but what about the CPU temps?

CPU is OK. Try not to let the 670 above 70c (first downclock point) but 80c is still safe.

CPU are a little high for 3.8 though, what is the vcore set to? My 4.4ghz at 1.14v gets a max of 65c.
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
I'm surprised that the new 7700 series Radeons aren't outperforming my 6970. I was talking to Drizzle last night and his 7750 has less Stream processors and lower clocks. Relatively speaking, I'm getting 580 levels of performance on lots of games or a little lower in some.

That being said, we talked for about 45 minutes on just PC tech and told him I'm eyeing a 680 or better GPU by next Feb.
 

Salsa

Member
I really should wait for the 660ti to come out and be imported to my country, but it looks like im getting an offer to sell my 560ti soon and I know I wont be able to be more than a week without a card :( lol

gonna end up spending a lot more on a 670 or 680 out of anxiousness
 

CatPee

Member
I'm surprised that the new 7700 series Radeons aren't outperforming my 6970. I was talking to Drizzle last night and his 7750 has less Stream processors and lower clocks. Relatively speaking, I'm getting 580 levels of performance on lots of games or a little lower in some.

That being said, we talked for about 45 minutes on just PC tech and told him I'm eyeing a 680 or better GPU by next Feb.

Been like that for AMD for a long time, if I recall. Anything below x8xx is just mainstream-level graphics.
 

cametall

Member
I'm getting a BSOD on my new PC. Afraid it might be related to the few week old SSD (M4).

I'm receiving a stop code 0x00000024. My Google searches take me to threads about running chkdsk, which I understand is a "no no" with SSDs.

Over the past 30 minutes applications (Skype, Steam, eventually gadgets) stopped working properly, now the PC hardlocks once Windows loads.

Of the 3 BSODs that came up one had stop code 0x0000007E.

EDIT: I am able to boot into Safe Mode though.
 

kennah

Member
Does anyone know of a good(hopefully inexpensive) cpu cooler for a 1366 socket? I'm looking to do a little overclocking to my i7 920.

EDIT: This is looking like the one to get. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I noticed theres one called, evo, any difference?

EVO has a slightly newer, slightly quieter fan, if I'm looking at the details correctly. Discussion here seems to go along 'it doesn't matter which one you get, get whichever is cheaper'
 
I have some Klipsch 2.1 speakers and want to move to 2.0. What are some good speakers? I saw Audio Engine somewhere. Are there any others?

And I don't think I want to get a receiver or DAC.
 
EVO has a slightly newer, slightly quieter fan, if I'm looking at the details correctly. Discussion here seems to go along 'it doesn't matter which one you get, get whichever is cheaper'

Thermal paste spreads a little more evenly on the Evo, but that is literally the only difference.

That is only because the bottom is flat on the EVO:

b682829b_coolermaster_hyper212evo_9.jpeg
 

dskillzhtown

keep your strippers out of my American football
I'm getting a BSOD on my new PC. Afraid it might be related to the few week old SSD (M4).

I'm receiving a stop code 0x00000024. My Google searches take me to threads about running chkdsk, which I understand is a "no no" with SSDs.

Over the past 30 minutes applications (Skype, Steam, eventually gadgets) stopped working properly, now the PC hardlocks once Windows loads.

Of the 3 BSODs that came up one had stop code 0x0000007E.

EDIT: I am able to boot into Safe Mode though.

I had the same thing happen to my old SSD. I recommend backing up everything on that SSD if you can. I ignored the BSODs (which I was getting like once a week after I finished my build) until my PC just stopped booting completely.
 

cametall

Member
I had the same thing happen to my old SSD. I recommend backing up everything on that SSD if you can. I ignored the BSODs (which I was getting like once a week after I finished my build) until my PC just stopped booting completely.

Edit: I can't install Windows 7 on my mechanical HDD now. I have no idea what to do. I get error 0x80070570 while reinstalling. I'm at a complete loss on what to do now.

EDIT 2: It appears to have been a bad stick of RAM. I have a single stick of DDR3 4GB in there now, but my PC feels really choppy and much slower. The SSD doesn't seem to be booting up and operating as fast before.

Did the bad stick do something to Windows?
 
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