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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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It was memory. Memtest cleared one stick, the other failed.
I have no BSODs as of now with just the one stick, just poor PC performance. I don't know why my SSD is moving so slowly though.
There is definitely a performance drop according to AS SSD... could the single stick (supposed to have two sticks) of 4GB slow the SSD down?
EDIT: I figured it out. Windows Driver Verifier was dragging it down. SSD speeds back to normal now
lastplayed
Member
Question about upgrading video cards...
I currently have a 420w PSU and want to upgrade my video card to something more recent (currently a HD5770). Would I need a power boost for something like a HD7770?
I currently have a 420w PSU and want to upgrade my video card to something more recent (currently a HD5770). Would I need a power boost for something like a HD7770?
AMD's site recommends 500w for a single card, 600w for Crossfire.
http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/7000/7770/pages/radeon-7770.aspx#3
http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/7000/7770/pages/radeon-7770.aspx#3
lastplayed
Member
Cool, just what I was looking for, thanks!
just wondering, no real intention behind this question at all but:
single gtx 670 not even near enough to make a 120hz monitor purchase worth it right? talking about newest games here.
should you even go for it with a 680? or is it best to go directly SLI?
and by worth it I of course mean running your games at at least constant 120fps on the highest possible settings at at least 1080p
single gtx 670 not even near enough to make a 120hz monitor purchase worth it right? talking about newest games here.
should you even go for it with a 680? or is it best to go directly SLI?
and by worth it I of course mean running your games at at least constant 120fps on the highest possible settings at at least 1080p
I think AMD is just covering their asses with that sort of requirement. (In short, probably because there are bad PSUs with a high power rating that don't do that well.) The HD7770 has a lower TDP than your old card. (According to Wikipedia.) Also, it has only one PCI-E connector, like your old card. So I wouldn't worry about it.
eso76
Member
that's what i think everyone is doing.
Asus too reports ridiculous requirements for my configuration, like 750w minimum while it appears a 500w 80+ certified is more than enough.
First of all, sorry my english and my poor pc hardware knowledge.
My system:
CPU: QuadCore Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600, 2400 MHz
Motherboard: Asus P5KC
Memory: 4096 MB (DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM)
Video Card: AMD Radeon HD 6700 Series (1024 MB)
Power Supply: Don´t know...
Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster T240HD/MD 24" LCD
Case: Thermaltake Xaser III
What I need to change to play fluidly Guild Wars 2?
May I really need to buy a new computer...
My system:
CPU: QuadCore Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600, 2400 MHz
Motherboard: Asus P5KC
Memory: 4096 MB (DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM)
Video Card: AMD Radeon HD 6700 Series (1024 MB)
Power Supply: Don´t know...
Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster T240HD/MD 24" LCD
Case: Thermaltake Xaser III
What I need to change to play fluidly Guild Wars 2?
May I really need to buy a new computer...
TyrantGuardian
Member
I'm pretty sure well-optimized games should work if you don't run them with massive amounts of non post-processed AA. Personally, I've got a 670 lined up for my new build and I'm planning on playing everything at 120 fps even if it requires lowering some settings. I'd rather have a game with fewer post effects at double the framerate, but that's just me.
SLI for 120hz gaming + highest settings.
MechaGodzilla
Neo Member
So do I need to purchase a CPU cooler? I'm using the OP's parts pick thing and the only thing I wasn't sure about was the. CPU cooler. Also if I want to run my cable to my pc do I need a separate card off is tha something that would be on the motherboard? Thanks guys!
CambriaRising
Member
I coud listen to this guy for hours. DEM FRAMES
Unless you're going to overclock or are buying an OEM CPU you won't have to buy one, you'll get one in the box when you buy your CPU.
RibbedHero
Member
Its your personal preference. I prefer 60fps at ultra, but if a few minor sacrifices bring 120fps then I'll implement them.
60fps at ultra or 120 at low/med? Ultra any day of the week for me.
Infinite Justice
Member
If you are gonna overclock you're CPU then yes it will be really handy. If not the processor package comes with a cooler so you can use that.
As for the cable question: what kinda of cable are you talking? cable as in the coaxial one from your box/TV, HDMI, ethernet, etc.
HWMonitor says VCore's at 1.06V. I've not changed anything on BIOS but XMP Profile. This slight overclock (3.8) is due my mobo (GB Z77X-UD5H), by default.
If we are talking about competitive games, I will drop anything to get to 120fps.
I loaded up Skyrim yesterday with the high res texture pack and settings on ultra. Just so happens it was playing at 130-140fps, but I would have been happy with 80-90.
Hey guys, any major differences between the HAF 912, 300R and 400R? I want to get one of the three, but is there something on either of these that would hurt me in the future?
I'm planning to pick up a new case + PSU (Either 650 or 750) for now.
Later upgrades would include a new SSD probably but I'm happy with my current other hardware (AMD Phenom X4 965, GTX 460). Way down the line I'd probably do a full Mobo/CPU upgrade.
I'm planning to pick up a new case + PSU (Either 650 or 750) for now.
Later upgrades would include a new SSD probably but I'm happy with my current other hardware (AMD Phenom X4 965, GTX 460). Way down the line I'd probably do a full Mobo/CPU upgrade.
Not going to find used for better than that.Took my first ever trip to a Microcenter today (I'm Canadian).
Bought some of that sweet sweet 30nm Samsung RAM for about 15$ less than I'd get it for back home.
Was really realllly tempted by the 2500k for $159, but holding out for a used one.
mkenyon, yeah, buying your motherboard I guess, since I got the RAM for it
If you are running a 5770 you are fine, but I'd suggest a PSU upgrade to something cheap like a VP450 and getting a newer more powerful card. 7770 is not a big jump.
The Evga versions? The GTX 670 is a reference 670, and the GTX 670 FTW is on a 680 PCB. Get the FTW if you need the ref cooler but if you want it to be quieter and cooler get a non reference Asus/Gigabyte/MSI 670.
What's the difference between a reference and a non-reference? Thanks for answering my question previously btw!
So, from what I read is that the cooling design is different. Is that about right?
It's just highly sought after.
Yep. Reference cooling isn't as good for the most part. There are some cases that require it, namely the ones from Silverstone. Some other cases that are restrictive would also do much better with a reference design.
So once I buy this SSD -
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007P71J9W/?tag=neogaf0e-20
How do I put my Windows 7 on it and the 1 MMORPG I play? Will I have to do a fresh windows install.. At this point I don't even know how I got my windows 7. It was an upgrade from a student version and right now I have no key / CD. I think this has stopped me from going SSD.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007P71J9W/?tag=neogaf0e-20
How do I put my Windows 7 on it and the 1 MMORPG I play? Will I have to do a fresh windows install.. At this point I don't even know how I got my windows 7. It was an upgrade from a student version and right now I have no key / CD. I think this has stopped me from going SSD.
RibbedHero
Member
They're definitely still in production, quite readily available here in the UK.
A quick google revealed that you can look up your product key on your current install. That will help you get going.
Yes, you need to reformat.
---------------------------------------------------------
Heads up - Tiger Direct selling Samsung 830 128GB for $90.
Awesome, didn't know you could do that.. I just gotta find my disk or make a disk.
You can install with a USB key too. Takes about 8 minutes when going from USB -> SSD.
Nice. I just moved to a place with a Tiger Direct around me. Do you know if I could purchase in store? This seems like a decent deal
Tell windows to output the sound to your soundcard instead of HDMI in control panel.
There are a bunch of different ways to do it but this is how I have it set up
Headphones are on my Xonar DG, TV is on my 670 so sound is handled via nvidia drivers over HDMI, desk speakers are on the Asus Z77 onboard sound. I have the sound menu pinned to the taskbar and just hit "set default" to quickly switch between them. If you're sending sound to a TV via HDMI and then send the TV sound to a receiver system it is likely that you will not get a 5.1 signal but a stereo signal as the HDMI connection only sees the TV. If you want to run sound directly to the receiver you can use an optical cable (which you would just need onboard sound for since it's digital) or run the HDMI cable through it if it supports video passthrough.
CambriaRising
Member
I use a program called DisplayFusion.
I had this same issue where I had a student upgrade version of Windows 7. I used a program to strip my key off of my current install but Windows wouldn't activate with this key since it was just an upgrade key. I think I would have went back to Vista and then used that key to upgrade to 7.
I ended up just getting another student key for 7 ultimate so I'm not sure if you'll get it to work out. Do you still have your Vista or XP key?
This has not been a part of windows until Windows 8, in which you just right click the image and select the monitor number.
Double install to make upgrade keys work.
You do one without a key, then upgrade/repair (I'm not certain on which - hopefully someone will speak up) with the upgrade key. It's legit too, not a 'sneaky' way of doing things.
Well.
Apparently anytime I touch a PC it breaks. Swapped my old stuff into my new case (400R) with a new CPU (TX650) andddddd I got nothing.
Powers on just fine, all the fans are going but nothing is being outputted. Tried the onboard out put, swapped in the old PSU and nothing.
Apparently anytime I touch a PC it breaks. Swapped my old stuff into my new case (400R) with a new CPU (TX650) andddddd I got nothing.
Powers on just fine, all the fans are going but nothing is being outputted. Tried the onboard out put, swapped in the old PSU and nothing.
There are a bunch of different ways to do it but this is how I have it set up
Headphones are on my Xonar DG, TV is on my 670 so sound is handled via nvidia drivers over HDMI, desk speakers are on the Asus Z77 onboard sound. I have the sound menu pinned to the taskbar and just hit "set default" to quickly switch between them. If you're sending sound to a TV via HDMI and then send the TV sound to a receiver system it is likely that you will not get a 5.1 signal but a stereo signal as the HDMI connection only sees the TV. If you want to run sound directly to the receiver you can use an optical cable (which you would just need onboard sound for since it's digital) or run the HDMI cable through it if it supports video passthrough.
What if you don't have a reciever?
Plug in the 4/8 pin power?
Recheck your CPU seating and that memory is securely in.
Unplug and replug all your connections.
Then it will just play through your TV if you plug in your TV to your card via HDMI.
So basically you need a receiver to get Dolby HD 5.1 if you play on a HDTV correct?
Goddamnit.
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