I_D
Member
Windows XP only supports 4gb. The price of the 6850 is a bit more, but it seems worthwhile.
If Windows 7 supports older games without issue, I'll definitely pick up more RAM.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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Windows XP only supports 4gb. The price of the 6850 is a bit more, but it seems worthwhile.
If Windows 7 supports older games without issue, I'll definitely pick up more RAM.
My cheap, overworked Rosewill PSU finally crapped outAny recommendations for a PSU that can power a Phenom II X4 and a 560ti? Kind of want to get a good quality one this time around so I'm looking to spend up to $100.
Im curious as to the problems you had with the psu. Did it simply not work anymore? Or did it slowly die and randomly cause glitches while the machine was running? Im asking cause im trying to troubleshoot a problem with my machine and i dont know if its my video card or psu.
It just stopped working suddenly, although since I installed the 560ti last fall (a card which it had no business running), it would sometimes shut off if I plugged in too many USB devices.
AwesomeSauce
MagsMoonshine
My cheap, overworked Rosewill PSU finally crapped out
At least it didn't go out in a blaze of glory and take some other components with it.
Which exact model was it?
RP500-2, which, now that I look at the label, should have been enough to power a 560ti I think...
But it won't start manually so I'm holding out hope it's the only thing that died.
My cheap, overworked Rosewill PSU finally crapped out
A SeaSonic 620W should be fine. Comes out to $74 if you use the discount code.
Looks pretty nice, thanks!
PSUs should last quite a while. Warranties are usually rated for 5-7 years, but they can last for longer.
RibbedHero
Member
Budget?
dunno i guess $80 and under.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Anybody own the 120hz Samsung S27A950D?
I'm considering making it my luxury purchase from my tax return. Reviews are very positive, praising the 120hz performance and the picture quality. I mainly want it because I'm extremely sensitive to LCD blur, especially in fast moving first person games. Reports I've read indicate blur on this monitor is minimal. It's very precise.
I do have a couple of concerns though. Running a single GTX 570, maxing out modern games at 1080p results in 60fps at best, and depending on the game usually a little under (~45fps). It doesn't bother me, but I'm thinking that probably wont take advantage of a monitor with a 120hz refresh rate would it? Am I basically required to play 60fps+ in order to get the most out of the 120hz?
I'm considering making it my luxury purchase from my tax return. Reviews are very positive, praising the 120hz performance and the picture quality. I mainly want it because I'm extremely sensitive to LCD blur, especially in fast moving first person games. Reports I've read indicate blur on this monitor is minimal. It's very precise.
I do have a couple of concerns though. Running a single GTX 570, maxing out modern games at 1080p results in 60fps at best, and depending on the game usually a little under (~45fps). It doesn't bother me, but I'm thinking that probably wont take advantage of a monitor with a 120hz refresh rate would it? Am I basically required to play 60fps+ in order to get the most out of the 120hz?
Building a new PC, got most of my components sorted, but ran into a problem with software.
I should buy a new key for either Win7 Pro or Ultimate, but the local prices are... well, they aren't good. Since I haven't been dealing in purchasing operating systems for a long time (last PC came with a key that I cannot keep, all others have been the regular 15 Mac OS X updates), I cannot find a good place to buy either the boxed copy of Win7 or just the key.
Any advice?
I should buy a new key for either Win7 Pro or Ultimate, but the local prices are... well, they aren't good. Since I haven't been dealing in purchasing operating systems for a long time (last PC came with a key that I cannot keep, all others have been the regular 15 Mac OS X updates), I cannot find a good place to buy either the boxed copy of Win7 or just the key.
Any advice?
You can't just get an OEM copy so you don't have to pay retail?
Still expensive as f###. Guess I'll need to go an an instant ramen diet again.
Even if you add another 680 you're still at 2GB of VRAM...you'll just be 3LITE. You will be fine with 2GB @ 1440. Unless you play alot of Skyrim with mods then it could become an issue but for everything else you are fine.
FanTomasas
Banned
I can't seem to find any Kepler graphics card for 200$ price range. Any idea when 650/650Ti/660 launches?
RibbedHero
Member
All talk seems to be on the 660Ti which will launch at 300 most likely. No recent mention of the 660 that I know of.
Mithos
Gold Member
Code:
Mobo: P6T Deluxe v2 x58 s-1366
Cpu : Intel Core i7 930 @ 2.8Ghz (Bloomfield)
Mem : Corsair 6GB DDR3 XMS3 (Intel i7 9xx PC10666 1333Mhz)
Gpu : Asus Radeon HD5770 1GB DDR5 PCI-E (EAH5770 CUCore/2DI/1GD5)
Case: ACE Miditower Game Edge 990 ATX - Cooler Master 850W Silent ProSo I'm looking into possibly improve my rig some, I'm kinda stuck with the Mobo/cpu since there really aren't any 1366 socket CPU's that's way way better then what I have for low cost.
So what I'm thinking is improve the GPU, BUT I don't fully follow the numbering/versions of today, before you know a x500 was crappier then a x 700 etc, but today a 5770 might be the same damn card as a x770 and you just would have wasted money on nothing.
And then there is money, tops 150-175 (~$200), what can I get that's better then my 5770 for that kind of low money, that actually is not also a waste of money even if its better.
Anybody own the 120hz Samsung S27A950D?
I'm considering making it my luxury purchase from my tax return. Reviews are very positive, praising the 120hz performance and the picture quality. I mainly want it because I'm extremely sensitive to LCD blur, especially in fast moving first person games. Reports I've read indicate blur on this monitor is minimal. It's very precise.
I do have a couple of concerns though. Running a single GTX 570, maxing out modern games at 1080p results in 60fps at best, and depending on the game usually a little under (~45fps). It doesn't bother me, but I'm thinking that probably wont take advantage of a monitor with a 120hz refresh rate would it? Am I basically required to play 60fps+ in order to get the most out of the 120hz?
Well, 120 Hz is great for general Windows work as well. Extremely responsive and easy on the eyes. But I don't think I could recommend a 120Hz monitor unless you were running games over 75fps, which is where most LCDs top out. For most multiplayer games, I'm comfortable dropping the graphical settings to hit 100-120 fps. (Whereas most recent games run at 50-70 on max settings with no AA)
Get an aftermarket cooler and over clock to 3.8-4.2GHz.
Best card in that price range is a 6870 or 560Ti. You can find great used deals for 570s, 6950s, and 560Ti 448 Cores on overclock.net, Hard forum, or even eBay.
I have the S23A and I love it. Colors are right there with good IPS panels and blur is non-existent.Anybody own the 120hz Samsung S27A950D?
I'm considering making it my luxury purchase from my tax return. Reviews are very positive, praising the 120hz performance and the picture quality. I mainly want it because I'm extremely sensitive to LCD blur, especially in fast moving first person games. Reports I've read indicate blur on this monitor is minimal. It's very precise.
I do have a couple of concerns though. Running a single GTX 570, maxing out modern games at 1080p results in 60fps at best, and depending on the game usually a little under (~45fps). It doesn't bother me, but I'm thinking that probably wont take advantage of a monitor with a 120hz refresh rate would it? Am I basically required to play 60fps+ in order to get the most out of the 120hz?
To be honest, I'd have to run some tests on how it looks at 45-70 fps. I always try to keep it at 100+.
Before you buy one, I'd really suggest looking closely at 27" 1080p monitors. The pixel density gives them a less sharp look. I think the S23A is a better pick if this is on a desk close to your face. Its subjective though.
Most non-intense (graphically) games run at 120fps on my OC'd 6950 rig. Dota 2, CS:GO, APB, T:A, Source games, etc.
Even if you aren't playing games though, the 120hz benefit is always felt. Even your desktop/web use feels better.
We got our new PC last night and spent a while setting it up, I set Steam to download some games during the day and can't wait to see it when I get home. Going from an old Q6600 with 4G of RAM (Win7 32bit) and a GTX 460 to an i7-3770 with 12G and a 2gb 7770. Yeah I wish there had been a better option than the 7770 which is only a marginal update over the 460 I think but this way I can get a new nVidia card in a few months when the GTX 661ti shakes out the midrange market.
As much as the PC itself, going from 10+ year old speakers to a logitech 5.1 set and going from a 20" 16:10 LCD with a 19" 4:3 secondary monitor to matching 24" monitors has been amazing.
So yeah, it's 10:30 at work and I'm counting the hours till I can go home and actually play a game. It'll have Arma II (well, DayZ), Rage, SC2, Crysis 2 and some others ready when I get home.
As much as the PC itself, going from 10+ year old speakers to a logitech 5.1 set and going from a 20" 16:10 LCD with a 19" 4:3 secondary monitor to matching 24" monitors has been amazing.
So yeah, it's 10:30 at work and I'm counting the hours till I can go home and actually play a game. It'll have Arma II (well, DayZ), Rage, SC2, Crysis 2 and some others ready when I get home.
Should have gone with the 3570 and 8GB RAM, use the extra money for a better GPU.
Glad its working out though. After you get a vid card upgrade, that thing will scream. The proc will leave you with tons of overhead for many years. If you are interested, I do have a 6950 2GB that clocks to 570/580/660Ti levels. Selling for cheap.
Out of curiosity, how'd you get 12GB of RAM with dual channel? 3x4GB?
Glad its working out though. After you get a vid card upgrade, that thing will scream. The proc will leave you with tons of overhead for many years. If you are interested, I do have a 6950 2GB that clocks to 570/580/660Ti levels. Selling for cheap.
Out of curiosity, how'd you get 12GB of RAM with dual channel? 3x4GB?
Alright so in doing some looking this is what where I am at
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770K http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116501 $340
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V DELUXE LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131818
$270
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233143 $95
Graphics:EVGA SuperClocked 02G-P4-2682-KR GeForce GTX 680 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130769 $510
Storage: SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 ST2000DL004 2TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drivehttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152245&Tpk=samsung f4 2tb $120
Power Supply: COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RS800-80GAD3-US 800W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supplyhttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171057 $160
Case:COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case with USB 3.0, Black Interior and Four Fans-1x 230mm front RED LED fan, 1x 140mm rear fan, 1x 230mm top fan, and 1x 230mm side http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160 $150
Optical Drive: LITE-ON Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Internal 12X Blu-ray Combo Model ihes112-04 - OEM http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106374 $50
Heatsink: Thermaltake CLW0217 Water 2.0 Extreme/All-In-One Liquid Cooling System http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106190 $130
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar Essence ST 24-bit 192KHz PCI Interface Audio Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132014&Tpk=xonar st $205
Anything here that I am wasting money on, or that i'm not spending enough on? Any recommendations on changes is much appreciated if anyone has any insight they feel would be useful.
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770K http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116501 $340
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V DELUXE LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131818
$270
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233143 $95
Graphics:EVGA SuperClocked 02G-P4-2682-KR GeForce GTX 680 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130769 $510
Storage: SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 ST2000DL004 2TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drivehttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152245&Tpk=samsung f4 2tb $120
Power Supply: COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RS800-80GAD3-US 800W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supplyhttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171057 $160
Case:COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case with USB 3.0, Black Interior and Four Fans-1x 230mm front RED LED fan, 1x 140mm rear fan, 1x 230mm top fan, and 1x 230mm side http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160 $150
Optical Drive: LITE-ON Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Internal 12X Blu-ray Combo Model ihes112-04 - OEM http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106374 $50
Heatsink: Thermaltake CLW0217 Water 2.0 Extreme/All-In-One Liquid Cooling System http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106190 $130
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar Essence ST 24-bit 192KHz PCI Interface Audio Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132014&Tpk=xonar st $205
Anything here that I am wasting money on, or that i'm not spending enough on? Any recommendations on changes is much appreciated if anyone has any insight they feel would be useful.
Listing names is insanely more helpful, as it makes it easier to reference when quoting. Item by item -
CPU - Swap for 3570K if you aren't doing multimedia work.
RAM - 8GB is already overkill, go for an 8GB kit of low profile RAM. Vengeance LP or Samsung 30nm is the way to go.
Motherboard - If you're using a sound card, there isn't much reason to go for a Deluxe. Go for the V-LK.
Storage - 120/128GB SSD for OS and games. Crucial M4, Samsung 830, and Corsair Force GT are the best choices.
Graphics - Get a better 680 such as the MSI Twin Frozr or ASUS DCII. MSI Lightning if you want to overclock. Get a 4GB card if you will be playing at 1440p.
PSU - Get a Corsair AX650 or Seasonic X650 (the latter is 15% off on the egg right now), or an 850 of either if you are planning on SLI down the line.
Heatsink - Coolermaster TPC 812, Noctua NH-D14, and NZXT Havik will give you similar performance. If you are set on a 240mm closed loop watercooling system, get the H100 and a pair of Corsair SP Quiet Edition 120mm fans.
Case - Tons of better options out there. Switch 810, Shinobi XL, Fractal Arc Midi, Corsair 500R, Coolermaster Trooper/Stryker, Fractal Define R4 to name a few. If you like aggressive styling, the CM Trooper/Stryker is the best choice. If you like something more subdued, I'd lean towards the Arc Midi, Define R4, and Shinobi XL.
Thanks for taking the time to click the links. I added the descriptions into the post, but I'm not always sure which bits are the important pieces so I figured it would be easier to just link to the parts directly.
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm not going to start building for alittle while so i'm probably just going to be buying piece by piece when I have the extra cash. Still doing allot of research on whats important, and whats not. My last PC the motherboard melted, so making sure my new rig will run cool enough to not have issues is a big one for me, and being able to run stuff like Oblivion, Skyrim, JC2 with the ability for full mod support is also important to me. If i'm going to build a PC I just want to do it the right way.
anyone?
Noctua NH-D14, NZXT Havik 140, or Coolermaster TPC 812 w/ a Corsair SP 120 Quiet Edition or two.
Heatsink is more about the fans included for reduced noise than anything. You could get a Hyper 212+ and grab a pair of good fans to go along with it like the Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120s, Corsair SP Quiet Edition 120s, or Noctua NF-F12s.
Haven't used one, but the Noctua NH-D14 gets good reviews on both counts. It's huge, though, so make sure it fits your case and doesn't obstruct your RAM.
No console can put out 120hz or those resolutions. They require dual link DVI or displayport.
Most console games are 720p and 30fps, so higher framerates are useless in that regard, and higher resolutions can actually be worse (due to the need to upscale). My advice would be to just go with a 1080p monitor (120Hz if you want for PC games) as both XBox360 and PS3 scale internally to 1080p (and I'll assume WiiU will as well), unless you can find a 1440p/1600p monitor which upscales from 1080p very well.
RibbedHero
Member
My P8Z77-V PREMIUM finally arrived. Can't wait to get this beast installed.
Nope. Going up a resolution degrades quality.
BenQ XL2420T or Samsung S23A950D would be what you're looking for if you want 120hz for the PC and decent scaling for PS360.
What's your current computer right now?
Dont think this is new thready worthy but am hoping someone here can help.
I want to run an HDMI cable from my PC to my HDTV for those comfy couch kinda days but am wondering about HDMI signal degradation. I googled a bit and have seen numbers as low as 15ft and as high as 50ft. Im probably looking at roughly 20-25ft.
Anyone have any experience with this? Do I need to worry?
I want to run an HDMI cable from my PC to my HDTV for those comfy couch kinda days but am wondering about HDMI signal degradation. I googled a bit and have seen numbers as low as 15ft and as high as 50ft. Im probably looking at roughly 20-25ft.
Anyone have any experience with this? Do I need to worry?
Thought the VG278HE was all the rave?
Depends on the market really. In the states, I'm seeing 560Tis go in the $150-190 range. No clue on Sweden though. Any big swedish hardware forums? You'll generally find a buy/sell thread or subforum.
It's pricey and unavailable.
If you like huge pixels sure. No one should want to subject themselves to a 80dpi screen
Hmm, just saw it in stock with a few Danish stores at a "reasonable" price. Just thought it'd be the number one recommended high-hz monitor.
Sounds awful
Used prices on older cards are very low. 470s and 560 tis ( rough currency conversion excluding massive Sweden TM-tax ) go for the equivalent of $100, new price is around $190-200 ( again these aren't the actual prices, they're adjusted in a way to reflect us prices )
ColonelSkills
Member
Without getting super technical, at 25 feet I wouldn't worry at all.
Sorry for asking this again but here we go.
First things first, I'm no Hazaro and my 2500K SB chip is a total bitch regarding OC, it neeeeeeds juice to maintain high clocks.
And the general rule of thumb is to avoid going past 1.35v for aircooling systems, right ?
But what if, after reading the link someone provided about case cooling, @1.385v (for 4.6Ghz) my chip is running at 75° absolute max at load (1h prime95)?
Should I step back a bit to prevent eventual damages I don't know of or is that ok since the temps are good ?
Also, a 100Mhz boost is worth it in practical use (mostly gaming) ?
First things first, I'm no Hazaro and my 2500K SB chip is a total bitch regarding OC, it neeeeeeds juice to maintain high clocks.
And the general rule of thumb is to avoid going past 1.35v for aircooling systems, right ?
But what if, after reading the link someone provided about case cooling, @1.385v (for 4.6Ghz) my chip is running at 75° absolute max at load (1h prime95)?
Should I step back a bit to prevent eventual damages I don't know of or is that ok since the temps are good ?
Also, a 100Mhz boost is worth it in practical use (mostly gaming) ?
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