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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Windows 8 preview is free. It is super stable and fast, and when it's released it'll be much cheaper than 7.
You'll find plenty of detractors around but I'm personally a big fan, I think it's a work of genius. My only complaint is it won't install on Pentium Ms so I can't run it on every PC in my home.
Thank you sir.
I'll do some benchs when my 670 arrives but I think I'll end up downclock it to 4.5Ghz because of the heat generated by the gpu.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Thanks guys. The lower pixel density could be a bit of a problem given how close I sit to the screen, so I'm thinking the S23A950D might be a better option. Looking at the specs its almost identical to the S27A950D, simply smaller, and with a 250 brightness verses 300.
My current monitor is a BenQ G22220HD with 300 brightness at 22". I like it, but this 120hz 23" might be a nice investment with my tax return, even if I wont be able to take full advantage of it with my GTX 570.
Any thoughts? Blurring really is the big thing for me. Even at current framerates if the 120hz Samsung will reduce LCD blur that alone is almost enough for me to purchase it.
It does.
A guy on my team has been gaming on CRTs to avoid the blurring and crappy refresh rates. He then played on my S23A750D, ended up buying the BenQ, but the Samsung convinced him it was the way to go.
XL2420T is a bit better on input lag, but can't match the Samsung's colors.
*edit*
Just so you know, 700D, 750D, and 950D are all the same panel. The only difference is the stand and the input. 700D = dual link DVI only, 750D = Displayport only, 950D = both. The stand gets better with each one. No options for VESA mounts either.
A guy on my team has been gaming on CRTs to avoid the blurring and crappy refresh rates. He then played on my S23A750D, ended up buying the BenQ, but the Samsung convinced him it was the way to go.
XL2420T is a bit better on input lag, but can't match the Samsung's colors.
*edit*
Just so you know, 700D, 750D, and 950D are all the same panel. The only difference is the stand and the input. 700D = dual link DVI only, 750D = Displayport only, 950D = both. The stand gets better with each one. No options for VESA mounts either.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Cool, cheers for the info. Given I only need HDMI and DVI, the 700D might be the better option. And though I own an nVidia card, 3D hurts my framerates too much, so I won't be using it. I mean, I might plug in the PS3 every once in awhile to try it out, but eh. Mostly it will be used for standard PC gaming.
AwesomeSauce
MagsMoonshine
Freaking MSI sent me back a busted MoBo. After calling them up pissed off, they offered an upgrade.
Now to wait another week without my PC :-(
Now to wait another week without my PC :-(
Well Gaf, Day 1 of Pc building went pretty fucking terrible. Spent a hour and a half just trying to install the Noctua NH-D14 cooler, took forever to fasten that thing to the motherboard, and it's so huge, its hard to connect my CPU power connectors. May just return it for some simpler but still effective. Then try to do a test boot, and I get absolutely nothing. Checked all my connections, everything is plugged in, but still no good. At that point, me and my brother called it a night. Gonna see if my brother's Computer teacher can help build it on Monday, see what went wrong. Just feels fucking terrible spending so much money, only to see nothing work. *Deep Sigh* Ok I'm done venting now.
What was giving you trouble with the Noctua? It's actually a very simple cooler to install. The hardest part is just getting the mounting bracket on.
Double check all your connections again, and make sure the power switch on the PSU is in the right position. (I freaked myself out once thinking I fucked something up and just forgot to turn the PSU back on.)
That's what it was, mounting it on the motherboard with the final two screws. Took forever, to get them both down, just hope I have it in a good position. I'll go back again tomorrow, see if I can start from scratch, with the connections to the psu that is and hopefully get a successful test boot. But damn man, I feel as though I doubled checked them all, who knows though, I was tired, hungry, and frustrated, so maybe I'll get lucky tomorrow.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
The S23A950D has been discontinued. As has the S23A700D by the looks of things. I'm starting to think Samsung's 23" line is kaput in order to lure customers towards their larger, more expensive models.
God damn it.
God damn it.
We need a monitor thread! Keep us updated on what you're looking at, I'm probably buying a new monitor soon.
I'm about to build a new PC and purchased a copy of Windows 7 Home 64-bit OEM. Have not opened it yet. Am I better off returning Windows 7 and using Windows 8 preview till the full version is released? I'm coming from Windows XP.
If it can be returned yeah. You can use the WinXP key to get W8 for $40 when it's released.
Hey GAF my Power Supply has 1 6pin PCI slot and 1 8pin PCI slot available, im adding a new HDD and ive got my cable connected to the MB but i dont know what cable i need to use for the power supply that would let me connect to the power supple into the HDD.
Someone please show help me out :/
Someone please show help me out :/
also try and avoid the rest of your system rattles and hums. No real way around having a loud GPU when gaming, but you can fit quiet/large case fans, rubber grommets to avoid rattling etc. Doesn't cost a lot to go round your case quietening it.
generally, yes
Thanks. I just realized that my HDD comes with screws but no SATA cable. Does that come with the motherboard?
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
As JaseC said, I'm in Australia unfortunately
.The S23A700D doesn't seem quite discontinued. I've found a few places that have them, but they're all interstate. For monitors I like to buy locally in case I need to return them (horrendous experience with a Viewsonic a few years back), but eh. In this case I guess I'll have to order, if I really want to.
Charmicarmicat
Banned
I've been considering putting together a HTPC, I was browsing Overclockers and saw this: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MB-499-AS&groupid=701&catid=1903&subcat=2230. Would this be good for my needs? I'll just be wanting to watch HD movies, do some classic gaming (nothing more demanding than MAME etc), and do some browser-based web streaming.
Edit: also, if I have 3 HDDs attatched, what's the lowest PSU power I could safely use?
Edit: also, if I have 3 HDDs attatched, what's the lowest PSU power I could safely use?
Yes
Again, thanks. It shows that it's my first time building a PC, doesn't it?
Laptop thread. Link is first or second line in OP.
100W will leave you with a good amount of headroom. For maximum power efficiency, you want to draw less than 50% of total capacity. You could get away with 75W no prob though.
So, in a month or so I'm going to build a PC for the first time and I'm trying to figure out what components I want in it, hopefully y'all can help!
Here's an Ebuyer list of all the stuff I've been considering
CPU: Intel G840 2.8GHz
GPU: GTX 560 1GB
Power: Corsair 430W
Board: Asus P8H61-M LE
Then I was gonna stick 8GB of RAM in it and an HDD of some size (I have a 2TB one in the Ebuyer list, but i'll probably go cheaper.)
I'm trying to keep the overall build under £500 - So ignore the cheapo monitor/mouse/keyboard in the list I'll be replacing those at a later date - and that list comes to £494.83.
Are there any changes Gaf would recommend to help me build a decent PC in this price range?
Here's an Ebuyer list of all the stuff I've been considering
CPU: Intel G840 2.8GHz
GPU: GTX 560 1GB
Power: Corsair 430W
Board: Asus P8H61-M LE
Then I was gonna stick 8GB of RAM in it and an HDD of some size (I have a 2TB one in the Ebuyer list, but i'll probably go cheaper.)
I'm trying to keep the overall build under £500 - So ignore the cheapo monitor/mouse/keyboard in the list I'll be replacing those at a later date - and that list comes to £494.83.
Are there any changes Gaf would recommend to help me build a decent PC in this price range?
Dark Octave
Banned
I have a silly question about the Excellent-Best Overall described PC in the OP. What is this thing capable of? I'll just go with a classic. lol I'm really sorry for this but can it run Crysis at max settings at 60fps? Is it beyond that or below? I'm just trying to gauge what I can do with it.
The CPU is ok for now as long as you plan on upgrading it down the line. However, I really recommend a newer motherboard with at least the H77 chipset.
Edit -- here's an alternative:
http://www.ebuyer.com/366091-biostar-h77mu3-h77-socket-1155-vga-dvi-hdmi-6-channel-audio-matx-h77mu3
Avoid WD Green drives like the plague. Swap 560 for 560Ti or 6870. 560 is a really bad card that they trick people with by giving it a name that is very similar to a good card.
At what resolution? But, probably not, no. That's not a good indicator of performance.
Here's basically what one would be doing in a variety of games.
If you're trying to save money everywhere you can, there's no real reason to. PCI-E 3.0 won't even help unless he randomly decides to drop $1000 on a videocard.
I'm just trying to help with futureproofing the build. He might want to upgrade the gpu/cpu down the road or get a new case with front usb3.
hey_it's_that_dog
benevolent sexism
Out of curiosity, what makes RAM the "best"?
I bought 8GB of Mushkin Essentials normal looking ram with no fancy heat spreaders or anything for about $42.
What makes this RAM superior, especially if the specs are the same?
I swapped out the motherboard on my list for the one you recommended, thanks
And yeah, I'll be upgrading that CPU first chance I get.
Swapped it out for a 560Ti and ditched the Green drive for a Samsung one (They any better? I really know nothing about HDDs.)
That brings my new estimate to £520.68, which is a little overbudget, but doable!
Edit:
In this case, I'll switch back to the other motherboard to stay in budget! Or at least closer to it.
But it doesn't do anything with futureproofing. IB is the last chip that will be supported on the socket. IB chips can be used on H67. So it literally does nothing.
It can be clocked to 2200mhz+ if you're into that, outclassing $300-400 kits of ram for a fraction of the price. It's made on a new 30nm process, and the only one of its kind.
I'm in Australia unfortunately
I'm so sorry man.
You're welcome everyone (I bought some two days ago)
I don't think there's a single-card machine in existence that can run Crysis unmodded at Very High at a stable 60. It's just poorly optimized. It'll run everything else imaginable at 1080p/60 though.
I put my receiver higher than the couch I'm sitting on. How do you do couch PC gaming? I can't sit on a couch comfortably and play long sessions...
A good laptop knee tray for the keyboard, then use the mouse on the arm rest beside you with a sturdy notebook or something.
Super comfy for long periods of time. If you aren't sitting next to an armrest it gets awkward though as you need to find a way to elevate your mouse.
Could someone tell me if there are specific cables for ESATAP (powered) ? I just ordered an external hard drive enclosure and I'm trying to use the eSATAP port on my motherboard but it isn't sending power. The port works because when I plug in the ac adapter it works, but I shouldn't need to use the ac adapter with powered esata. The case came with a esata plug but I'm wondering if it's not esataP which is my problem.
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