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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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2San

Member
Quick, probably silly, question:

I'm considering not getting both SSD + HDD to finish my build this month. Rather, I think I'm just going to put in the SSD, then add in a HDD a month or two later once I want to start adding my music library.

If I do this, at the point where I eventually install the HDD as additional storage, will I be fine simply plug-and-playing it? That is to say, I won't have to also fanny around reinstalling everything again on the SSD right?

I don't think I will (I can't think of any reason why it would be necessary) but I don't want to take that assumption for granted.
Yeah you have that right. Adding a HDD is nothing more then adding an HDD. If you have hotswap on in your Bios setting you can even plug in the HDD in and out like an USB stick while the PC is on.
 

Noaloha

Member
Cheers fella! Unless I change my mind, I'll be getting a Crucial M4 256GB I think. Comes in at £150.

I think 256GB will be absolutely plenty for me to play around with for a while. Shit, my current PC's only 160GB and I've managed just fine with that. The storage overhead once I add in TB-size HDDs will be dizzying.
 

2San

Member
Cheers fella! Unless I change my mind, I'll be getting a Crucial M4 256GB I think. Comes in at £150.

I think 256GB will be absolutely plenty for me to play around with for a while. Shit, my current PC's only 160GB and I've managed just fine with that. The storage overhead once I add in TB-size HDDs will be dizzying.
Good stuff, remember to change the BIOS setting to AHCI mode or Raid 0. Before installing Windows.
 

2San

Member
If I've read my manual correctly (that's a big 'if'), my motherboard - Z77 Sabertooth - defaults to running in AHCI. :]
Should be fine then. :) You can check in the BIOS settings. These newer MOBO's have a pretty sweet interface it should be easy enough to find if it's set to AHCI.
 
Every part you have mentioned, including the SS Sensei, have my 100% recommendation as the best thing to go with. Pics or GTFO!

Also, just get yourself a dremel/jigsaw, some plastic u-channel, and a piece of acrylic. Make your own window!

I use an xtrac ripper XXL, which allows me to have a continuous mouse pad wherever I go. Most of the pros I know either use a giant mousepad like myself with low sens, or mid-low sens with the Steelseries 9HD. If you like a bit of a grippier surface, 9HD is the way to go. If you play lots of FPS and therefore have low sens, a big soft mat is where its at. (old pic)

Thanks for the suggestions man. I didn't even think about making my own window, that's a great idea. I'll hopefully do that soon and get some pics of it. There's a jigsaw around this house somewhere I think.

Can't believe I didn't know those large mats existed, especially considering FPS is my jam with DOTA/RTS on the side. The xtrac specifically doesn't seem to exist in the UK but this looks to be a good equivalent: Boogie Bug AimB.Pad XL. They even do an extreme XL which is 60cm x 120cm ha! That's basically an entire desk. I love it.
 

Trojita

Rapid Response Threadmaker
Where's the cheapest place to get a copy of Windows 7? My coworker was supposed to give me a copy but then he ended up canceling his technet subscription.
 

Xdrive05

Member
Gaf, would an SSD be a worthwhile upgrade for an old budget 2009 motherboard that's SATA II (3.0gb)? Rest of my specs:

Phenom II 940BE @ 3.6ghz
ECS A780GM-A Ultra motherboard
8GB G.SKILL 1066 ram
WD Caviar Black 1TB 7200rpm
Evga superclocked gtx 560 Ti 1GB

My WD caviar black is starting to lag after two years, so I was thinking of a reformat anyway. Would a modern SSD be noticeably faster on my older system? Thanks much for your opinions.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
So I have like 8 enclosures with different sizes of HDDs inside, I think in total I have like 10TB of data. All connected to my game rig.

I find myself in the need to connected them to small factor PC that doesnt use too much energy so that I can leave it on all day every day.

What is the cheapest PC (must run Windows so I can Remote Desktop to it) that I can buy that will let me connect more than 10 USB devices?

Please dont recomment me Drobos or other NAS devices, they are still too expensive :(

Consider a HP microserver. Mine has 5 2TB drives plus the OS drive, and has USB ports if you wanted to add more. I run mine 24/7 attached to a UPS just in case. Mine is running Linux but you can install windows no problem.
 

mike23

Member
server.jpg


I know it's not the regular type of builds that we see here, but I thought I would share it anyway. So I went ahead and built my own NAS. I decided to not go with a prebuilt NAS cause non of them offered all the options I wanted. Plus for how much they cost I was impressed with how much storage they offered. What I wanted was something with a ton of storage. It needed a ton of space to hold my girlfriend and mines Animation files/Demo Reel files, her photos and videos she takes, music, our movie files etc etc. Plus I wanted some redundancy, I had a hard drive die not to long ago and unfortunately I didn't have some stuff backed up. I was luckily able to rebuild with out too much effort the important stuff, but it made me crave redundancy. So along with that I wanted a RAID 1 (mirrors one drive to the other) for onsite backup of the really important stuff. With out further wait here is the list of parts.


PSU Seasonic SS-460FL 460W Fanless 80Plus Gold
Motherboard/CPU/GPU ASUS E35M1-M PRO (1.6 dual core AMD E-350)
CASE Fractal Design Define R3
RAM G.Skill Ripjaw sieres 1066 DDR3 8GB (2x4)
OS Drive OCZ Agility 3 180GB SATA III
Hardware RAID card Areca ARC-1223-8I 8 port SAS/SATA Raid card
RAID 1 drives Seagate Barracuda 7200 RPM 3TB (x2)
RAID 6 drives Western Digital Red NAS Drive 3TB (x6)

Just got the WD Reds in today, so the RAID 6 is building now. Holy shit is it going fast, only looking to be taking about 5 hours for it. Which is about how long the Barracuda's took to build just their RAID 1.

I'm most impressed with the cable job. I made my NAS a year and a half ago and it's fairly similar. I reused my old gaming pc, so it has a nicer cpu and 12 gigs or ram (which raises my power bill a bit, I'm sure). You have much nicer drives than mine though, mine are all 5400 RPM 3TB Hitachis. My motherboard also has 8 SATA2 so I didn't get a raid card and went with ZFS RAID-Z.

I was going to use an R3 as well, but I decided to reuse my old pc and used the R3 to build my main desktop.

Two of my Hitachi drives showed up making a horrible clicking noise and I had to send them back. I've also had 2 sata cables go bad somehow over the past year.

As you can see, my cable job is absolute crap.

oYFOU.png


700W Silverstone PSU (extreme overkill. makes a clicking noise because it runs so low all the time)
Gigabyte EP45-UD3R
Q6600
12GB Ram
6x Hitachi 3TB 5400 RPM in Raid-z
2x old ass OCZ 30GB ssds
2x Intel gigabit nics (not shown)
 

2San

Member
Btw guys for those who remember the issue's I had with my brothers PC with the clock not working. I got it to work by hard reseting the CMOS(pulling that jumper and placing it on the other pins). Just a heads up for those who might get the same problem.

Gaf, would an SSD be a worthwhile upgrade for an old budget 2009 motherboard that's SATA II (3.0gb)? Rest of my specs:

Phenom II 940BE @ 3.6ghz
ECS A780GM-A Ultra motherboard
8GB G.SKILL 1066 ram
WD Caviar Black 1TB 7200rpm
Evga superclocked gtx 560 Ti 1GB

My WD caviar black is starting to lag after two years, so I was thinking of a reformat anyway. Would a modern SSD be noticeably faster on my older system? Thanks much for your opinions.
It's a lot faster. The biggest problem with HDD's isn't really the read/write speeds, but the access speed which the SSD delivers(which is the same for SATA II or III). It also delivers a more consistent and higer read/write speeds, but going SATAIII definitely offers a big boost. I highly recommend getting a SATA III SSD though, the Samsung 830 and Crucial M4 work good on Sata II pc's in my experience. So you can take it with you if you ever build a new PC. It'll feel like you have a new pc for a while. Windows without a SSD sucks, it's also a great deal quiter(Dunno how loud your old HDD is though).
 
So any other recommendations for AMD CPUs?

Someone will give you a better answer but, I've been looking at CPUs lateley and no Intel chips are much better at every price point at the moment. The new AMD APUs would seem to be a good deal but aren't compatible with am3 so you'd have to upgrade the motherboard.

Yeah, I'm looking at the APUs and while they're decent at graphics, not sure about the CPU end of things. If I get their highest end APU, what should I crossfire it with for the best bang for a buck?
 

turnbuckle

Member
Think I may have gotten a doa motherboard. Turn on computer, fans all start up but the computer won't boot and it shuts itself off after a minute or so. Brother and I all spent hours last night troubleshooting and never got anywhere.
 

Xdrive05

Member
Btw guys for those who remember the issue's I had with my brothers PC with the clock not working. I got it to work by hard reseting the CMOS(pulling that jumper and placing it on the other pins). Just a heads up for those who might get the same problem.


It's a lot faster. The biggest problem with HDD's isn't really the read/write speeds, but the access speed which the SSD delivers(which is the same for SATA II or III). It also delivers a more consistent and higer read/write speeds, but going SATAIII definitely offers a big boost. I highly recommend getting a SATA III SSD though, the Samsung 830 and Crucial M4 work good on Sata II pc's in my experience. So you can take it with you if you ever build a new PC. It'll feel like you have a new pc for a while. Windows without a SSD sucks, it's also a great deal quiter(Dunno how loud your old HDD is though).

Thanks much. I'll keep my eye on sales for those models.
 
Ok, been looking around and I got some question on building a relatively cheap rig while salvaging parts from my old PC.

Here's the thing, I bought a PC from HP a few years ago for 300 dollars. It is NOT top of the line to say the least. The reason was back then, I lost my job, but my PC also died and out of warranty. Now I'm ready to upgrade and I think I have an idea on what I want, but still need to figure out CPU.

Here's the thing, while that PC isn't top of the line, it's still in very decent condition. I have at least 2 fully functioning 500GB hardrives that I can use. the thing is, I heard companies like HP and crap locked the hardware so you can't reuse for parts for other systems. Is that true? If not, I can save myself some money and go for a OCZ 90 GB Agility 3 SSD.

Now I just need to figure out what to do with CPU. I read from ONE place that the bulldozer CPUs at least overclocks really well, but not sure if I want to do that to save some money.
 

2San

Member
Think I may have gotten a doa motherboard. Turn on computer, fans all start up but the computer won't boot and it shuts itself off after a minute or so. Brother and I all spent hours last night troubleshooting and never got anywhere.
There should be 2 slots on the mobo that needs power from the PSU(this obviously dependent on the mobo). There's the big slot, but there's a smaller one as well. At least that's what drove me crazy once, when I had the exact same symptom.
Here's the thing, while that PC isn't top of the line, it's still in very decent condition. I have at least 2 fully functioning 500GB hardrives that I can use. the thing is, I heard companies like HP and crap locked the hardware so you can't reuse for parts for other systems. Is that true? If not, I can save myself some money and go for a OCZ 90 GB Agility 3 SSD.
Is that even possible with harddrives? I have no idea tbh, but can't you take it to a friend to try it out?
 

turnbuckle

Member
Yeah, have both power cables connected to mobo. Think I'm gonna run to best buy and buy a new mobo to see if that helps. Worried trouble shooting is going to be as expensive as the initial upgrade. I mean, I don't know how I can tell if it's my mobo or if it's my processor, and sure of newegg or best buys return policy on open products. Say I go buy a different mobo and that also doesn't work, then I buy a new processor etc etc . Sigh

My cpu and gpu fans come on, led on front power comes on, monitor won't display anything. When I turn computer on, my monitor and keyboard behave as if it was still off. Computer isn't shutting down anymore though, but still won't boot.
 
I'm running my 2500K at 4,5GHz now with Offset Voltage, getting max temps of 78C according to HW Monitor. Is that risky if it's going to be a 24/7 overclock, or should I not worry about it? It idles around 50C.
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
I'm running my 2500K at 4,5GHz now with Offset Voltage, getting max temps of 78C according to HW Monitor. Is that risky if it's going to be a 24/7 overclock, or should I not worry about it? It idles around 50C.

Stock cooling? Mine idles at 34~ on core 2 in summers and around 28~ during winters. I run a 4.8ghz 24/7 but I assume you mean you have speedstep on right? No way I would run it 24/7 at 4.8ghz. I run offset to with about a +0.12 setting that I always tinker with to ease my stop 0x124 BSOD's at times. I occasionally hit 71~ but only during long gaming sessions. I have the Hyper 212 from the OP. This is at 4.8ghz, as I stated.
 
I'm most impressed with the cable job. I made my NAS a year and a half ago and it's fairly similar. I reused my old gaming pc, so it has a nicer cpu and 12 gigs or ram (which raises my power bill a bit, I'm sure). You have much nicer drives than mine though, mine are all 5400 RPM 3TB Hitachis. My motherboard also has 8 SATA2 so I didn't get a raid card and went with ZFS RAID-Z.

Thanks! Cable management to me is so influenced by the case. I've seen some amazing cable management in some shitty cases but it's such work. It's nice when it's case like the R3 and it just gives you so many ways to send the cables behind everything. Type of cables helps too. Since I'm using a raid card I use 2 of these

81881.jpg


which definitely makes a huge difference compared to 8 sata cables.

How are you liking ZFS Raid-Z?


I was going to use an R3 as well, but I decided to reuse my old pc and used the R3 to build my main desktop.

After doing this build the R3 has easily become my favorite case, understandable why you used it for your main desktop.

Two of my Hitachi drives showed up making a horrible clicking noise and I had to send them back. I've also had 2 sata cables go bad somehow over the past year.
That sucks about the drives and the Sata cables, just bad luck it sounds like.


700W Silverstone PSU (extreme overkill. makes a clicking noise because it runs so low all the time)
Gigabyte EP45-UD3R
Q6600
12GB Ram
6x Hitachi 3TB 5400 RPM in Raid-z
2x old ass OCZ 30GB ssds
2x Intel gigabit nics (not shown)

That's a nice set up there, how do you like having 2 nics onit, or well technically 3 I would assume the motherboard has one as well? I thought about buying a second gigabit nic for this, but it's just my girlfriend and myself using it.
 

Enlil

Member
Is it safe to use a 8 pin (from PSU) on a 4pin (to motherboard)?

I have the cooler master 850W silent pro that has no 4pin power cable.

As always...thanks
 

mike23

Member
Thanks! Cable management to me is so influenced by the case. I've seen some amazing cable management in some shitty cases but it's such work. It's nice when it's case like the R3 and it just gives you so many ways to send the cables behind everything. Type of cables helps too. Since I'm using a raid card I use 2 of these

81881.jpg


which definitely makes a huge difference compared to 8 sata cables.

How are you liking ZFS Raid-Z?

It's excellent. It saved my ass a few times when the cables were dying. Really simple to scrub and resilver it when something goes wrong. It's fast too. I had some issues optimizing it for top speed, but I think that's more of a FreeNAS/nas4free issue rather than ZFS. I just wish I had enough ram so I could dedupe the entire pool without getting killed on speed. As it is, I have a single dataset with dedupe enabled that I put my backups into.

After doing this build the R3 has easily become my favorite case, understandable why you used it for your main desktop.

Two of my Hitachi drives showed up making a horrible clicking noise and I had to send them back. I've also had 2 sata cables go bad somehow over the past year.

That sucks about the drives and the Sata cables, just bad luck it sounds like.




That's a nice set up there, how do you like having 2 nics onit, or well technically 3 I would assume the motherboard has one as well? I thought about buying a second gigabit nic for this, but it's just my girlfriend and myself using it.

Eventually I'm going to get a good switch so I can link the two and have a 2gb connection to my desktop. Right now, one is connected to a switch that my laptop/desktop are connected to that I use for everything on my laptop and ftp transfers from my desktop. The second nic is connected directly to my desktop and I use it for cifs/smb. That way I can ftp and still have bandwidth for cifs/smb on my desktop.

The motherboard does have a gigabit nic, but isn't Intel. I read that speed is better intel<->intel rather than mixing manufacturers. I don't know if it's actually true or not, but the cards were cheap enough, so why not.
 
How flexible are motherboards suppose to be? The reason why I ask is because I completed my build with an Asrock Extreme4, which isn't a full atx board, and I had to put pressure on the board to get the 24 pin line from the PSU connected. I'm worried that I could have cracked it.
 

Akkad

Banned
How flexible are motherboards suppose to be? The reason why I ask is because I completed my build with an Asrock Extreme4, which isn't a full atx board, and I had to put pressure on the board to get the 24 pin line from the PSU connected. I'm worried that I could have cracked it.

You'll be fine, I've done that many times with no damage. They are pretty flexible. Did you turn it on?
 
You'll be fine, I've done that many times with no damage. They are pretty flexible. Did you turn it on?

Yes, turned it on and worked fine for 12 hours. Then I decided to reformat and install Windows again. This all went well until i installed the latest version of catalyst. It blue screened while the calayst install manager was installing the graphics driver.

I'm running Windows Memory Diagnostic right now and it has gone through 4 extended passes in 8 hours without error. It could just have been a weird bug with calayst install. Maybe there were problems with replacing the drivers that Windows Update decided to install prior to my installation of the latest version of ATi's drivers.

Sorry for the spelling error but I'm typing from my phone right now.
 

Mordeccai

Member
Is a price drop in three months forseeable for the GTX 670? I will be able to order a build in late November, and its my first jump back into PC gaming for a good six years and I want to make sure I can run everything at 60 fps 1080p and maybe even 120 Hz. I know for all of that, I should be expecting to drop 400$ for the card, but is it feasible to expect a 50$ price drop on it within the next three months?
 
Is a price drop in three months forseeable for the GTX 670? I will be able to order a build in late November, and its my first jump back into PC gaming for a good six years and I want to make sure I can run everything at 60 fps 1080p and maybe even 120 Hz. I know for all of that, I should be expecting to drop 400$ for the card, but is it feasible to expect a 50$ price drop on it within the next three months?

Not so sure about the US market, but Nvidia doesn't do price cuts in the UK all that often. The prices may eventually drop (though probably not before November), but with the release of the 660Ti a drop on the 670 is looking unlikely, especially given its limited competition in its price bracket. You might find a deal, but a price cut across the board is not going to happen in all likelihood.
 

Enlil

Member
I don't understand why these big company's like Cooler Master bring something on the market and don't include all cables. The 4pin connector on the motherboard is mounted on almost every motherboard out there.

I have been reading I can use the 4+4 pin. But i don't have that one. i only have the 8 pin EPS +12 volt power cable. Does anyone know if i can use this one. I tried fitting it in, but I don't think it fits and I also didn't wanted to force it.

Also my gtx 680 has 2 6 pin connectors . does this means they should both be powered? In the manual you see 2 cables drawn, but is this really necessary?

p.s (had no idea these cards are so HUGE).

p.s.s the motherboard I have only has 1 PCI 16PCI 3.0 slot while the website were i bought it from said it had three. a real bummer. While the motherboard says it supports sli I don;t think it will run at full speed now.

p.s.s.s Have my pc parts for 2 day's now and still haven't done anything with it. my music gear has arrived as well and this weekend was really frustrating assembling the H70..OMG!!!
 
I don't understand why these big company's like Cooler Master bring something on the market and don't include all cables. The 4pin connector on the motherboard is mounted on almost every motherboard out there.

I have been reading I can use the 4+4 pin. But i don't have that one. i only have the 8 pin EPS +12 volt power cable. Does anyone know if i can use this one. I tried fitting it in, but I don't think it fits and I also didn't wanted to force it.

Also my gtx 680 has 2 6 pin connectors . does this means they should both be powered? In the manual you see 2 cables drawn, but is this really necessary?

p.s (had no idea these cards are so HUGE).

p.s.s the motherboard I have only has 1 PCI 16PCI 3.0 slot while the website were i bought it from said it had three. a real bummer. While the motherboard says it supports sli I don;t think it will run at full speed now.

p.s.s.s Have my pc parts for 2 day's now and still haven't done anything with it. my music gear has arrived as well and this weekend was really frustrating assembling the H70..OMG!!!

sounds like one of them might have to be replaced due to this mismatch. wait on better advice though.

as for the 680 both has to be connected since they more likely supply the power needed for the huge board and its accompanying cooler.
 
Yes, turned it on and worked fine for 12 hours. Then I decided to reformat and install Windows again. This all went well until i installed the latest version of catalyst. It blue screened while the calayst install manager was installing the graphics driver.

I'm running Windows Memory Diagnostic right now and it has gone through 4 extended passes in 8 hours without error. It could just have been a weird bug with calayst install. Maybe there were problems with replacing the drivers that Windows Update decided to install prior to my installation of the latest version of ATi's drivers.

Sorry for the spelling error but I'm typing from my phone right now.

So I checked the event viewer and it said the following: The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x00000116 (0xfffffa800b37d4e0, 0xfffff880030c46cc, 0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000002). A dump was saved in: C:\Windows\MEMORY.DMP. Report Id: .

So am I right to assume that it was the driver that did it because of error code: 0x00000116?
 
Stock cooling? Mine idles at 34~ on core 2 in summers and around 28~ during winters. I run a 4.8ghz 24/7 but I assume you mean you have speedstep on right? No way I would run it 24/7 at 4.8ghz. I run offset to with about a +0.12 setting that I always tinker with to ease my stop 0x124 BSOD's at times. I occasionally hit 71~ but only during long gaming sessions. I have the Hyper 212 from the OP. This is at 4.8ghz, as I stated.

I have a Cooler Master TX3 EVO. I am using SpeedStep. Definitely worse temps than you, but you didn't really answer my question. Are my temps safe or should I be downclocking and/or giving up some stability for a lower offset?
 

CatPee

Member
I have a Cooler Master TX3 EVO. I am using SpeedStep. Definitely worse temps than you, but you didn't really answer my question. Are my temps safe or should I be downclocking and/or giving up some stability for a lower offset?

You really should try and keep everything under 70C to be safe.
 
I'm building a new PC in mid-September and I really don't know whether I should go with an HD7950 or a GTX 670. Since my last card was an HD3850 (RIP) I have no idea how the driver situation for ATi/AMD has changed over the years. Anybody willing to share their opinion?
 

Dipswitch

Member
So I checked the event viewer and it said the following: The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x00000116 (0xfffffa800b37d4e0, 0xfffff880030c46cc, 0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000002). A dump was saved in: C:\Windows\MEMORY.DMP. Report Id: .

So am I right to assume that it was the driver that did it because of error code: 0x00000116?

You may have to install the Windows debugging tools and/or change your dump file settings to truly figure out which driver/app is causing the problem. I've done this in the past and it's pretty useful in narrowing things down.

This link should help: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/315263
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
I'm kind of behind on the latest videocard hardware rumors. What are the chances of nvidia releasing a gtx 685 by the end of the year?
 
I'm kind of behind on the latest videocard hardware rumors. What are the chances of nvidia releasing a gtx 685 by the end of the year?

Are you talking about the GK110 chip? With the way the GK104 is still dominating (maybe too strong a word) the high-end, I don't see them releasing the GK110 anytime soon. Next year I imagine.
 

Razek

Banned
EDIT: NEVER MIND, I can still RMA the drive apparently.

Not exactly for this thread but I didn't want to start a new one.

I have the worst luck with hard drives, I swear.

As feared, my second hard drive that has been acting up is seriously starting to run into issues. When copying files over to my SSD, it goes from ~300mb/s to ~5mb/s and just keeps dropping to oblivion. Games lock up during load screens unless I use steam mover to move them to my SSD. I'm assuming this is probably time to give up on it huh? Any advice? Should I just get a new one?

Luckily, I bought my backup drive just a week ago and have everything saved (phew).

Assuming yes to a new one, what is a decent and reliable 500gb-1tb HDD to buy that isn't going to cost me an arm and a leg. I just blew 100 on my backup drive and this is getting ridiculous now.
 

Sky Chief

Member
I haven't used my laptop for a while so I installed XBMC on it and have it connected to my TV and it is amazing.

Now I'm thinking about building a dedicated HTPC for XBMC and gaming. Of the builds in the OP what is the bare minimum that I need for good Dolphin and PCSX2 performance at 1080p?

I assume such a PC would be powerful enough to run current games at 1080p and a good framerate is well, is this correct?

Thanks
 

mkenyon

Banned
I haven't used my laptop for a while so I installed XBMC on it and have it connected to my TV and it is amazing.

Now I'm thinking about building a dedicated HTPC for XBMC and gaming. Of the builds in the OP what is the bare minimum that I need for good Dolphin and PCSX2 performance at 1080p?

I assume such a PC would be powerful enough to run current games at 1080p and a good framerate is well, is this correct?

Thanks
2500K, don't need anything extravagant for the GPU. I'd go for the ASRock Z77 ITX, 2500K, 8GB of whatever 1600 DDR3, decent heatsink, and a Bitfenix Prodigy.
My budget for a graphics card is around 150€. Shalli i go for a geforce 550 ti or a radeon 6870?
6870 no question. 6850 will spank the 550Ti.
 
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