That's a conflict with the ASRock in specific. Just requires a little bit of cutting on the motherboard tray, which is completely hidden by being sandwiched between the motherboard and PSU.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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Solideliquid
Member
The 670 is great, this is almost identical to the machine I just built. However, I had trouble installing the cooler master evo on my motherboard. It seemed very tricky so I went with the stock cooler.
CambriaRising
Member
As an aside, the Asrock Z77 Extreme 4 mobo accomadates the Evo 212 nicely.
Curious what others think of this OC of my 660ti:
http://i.imgur.com/kbLBk.jpg
Think I can push it further?
OCCT reports no errors after 20 mins. Kombuster test loads it to 70% and the temp hits 69C. Is this enough to test stability?
http://i.imgur.com/kbLBk.jpg
Think I can push it further?
OCCT reports no errors after 20 mins. Kombuster test loads it to 70% and the temp hits 69C. Is this enough to test stability?
Ah ha! So if I were disinclined to cut on the tray, and got the ASUS mobo, I'd be okay?
So I finished my build about 2 weeks ago while my video card was out due to a dead fan RMA.
With the 660ti being released contemplating just getting one of those and doing away with my current card being a 2GB 6870.
Should I go for the upgrade now or stick it out awhile longer with this card.
With the 660ti being released contemplating just getting one of those and doing away with my current card being a 2GB 6870.
Should I go for the upgrade now or stick it out awhile longer with this card.
I'm *almost* positive. Don't have one on hand to double check though.
Alternatively, you could buy some larger standoffs.
I doubt those kinds of test give any kind of insight into how the card will perform/how stable it is. Heaven Benchmark for 3D engine testing. Then actual games you'll be playing.
hey dudes looking to order my first build just wanted to make sure its all going to fit/be compatible.
Case Silverstone TJ08-E
CPU Intel Core i5 3570K
RAM Corsair Vengeance CML8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB (2x4GB)
SSD Samsung 830 Series 128GB SSD
HD Seagate Barracuda 500GB
GPU Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 Overclocked 2GB
Optical Samsung SH-222BB SATA DVDRW
Mobo ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M Motherboard
Cooler CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler
PSU Silverstone Strider Plus 750W ST75F-P
Case Silverstone TJ08-E
CPU Intel Core i5 3570K
RAM Corsair Vengeance CML8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB (2x4GB)
SSD Samsung 830 Series 128GB SSD
HD Seagate Barracuda 500GB
GPU Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 Overclocked 2GB
Optical Samsung SH-222BB SATA DVDRW
Mobo ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M Motherboard
Cooler CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler
PSU Silverstone Strider Plus 750W ST75F-P
BolognaSoup
Member
Thanks for the input. I do have an SSD and I just tried disabling PLL Overvoltage. Set my sleep timer to 1 minute and it still happened. It gives a beep similar to a POST beep when crashing but slightly longer and uglier sounding.
HOWEVER, I just tried turning my monitor off and THEN letting the PC fall asleep after 1 minute and it did not crash. So it has something to do with the monitor. I changed my setting to never put the monitor to sleep and I'll just manually turn it off for now, but any ideas what would cause this??
Quick question for corporate IT GAF: I recently came into a few rack mounted servers (circa 2009) that my fathers boss no longer wanted. These servers have two PSU's each, and my question is whether the servers will be okay with just one PSU plugged in each.
Check your TV against the list of supported TV's on this site.
Know that you'll need 3DTV Play from Nvidia (which isn't free, though it does have a 14 day free trial) for games. The glasses you get with your set should work with 3DTV Play (mine do anyway, with my Panny ST30).
Check your TV against the list of supported TV's on this site.
Know that you'll need 3DTV Play from Nvidia (which isn't free, though it does have a 14 day free trial) for games. The glasses you get with your set should work with 3DTV Play (mine do anyway, with my Panny ST30).
Oh, that's convenient. lol. Thank you.
Should be. The second PSU is there for redundancy purposes.
Thank you.
No problem. If you're looking for a cheap (well, free in this case) 3D player, I suggest Media Player Home Cinema. It seems to handle any SBS 3D content I throw at it.
Edit: This goes without saying (hopefully) but you'll need a 3D capable graphics card.
Yeah. Im going back and forth on whether 3D is worth it. How is it? Should I just get a nice 42 inch 1080p 120hz tv without 3d instead?
I have a GTX580 3gb currently.
You can't get true 120hz on a 42 inch TV (that I know of). What TV manufacturers call "120hz" is really just a post processing technique that (in my opinion) ruins most content. True 120hz is only available on TN Panels these days (20-27ish inches) as far as I know.
3D isn't really worth it (in my opinion) until 50+ inches or so, unless you're going to be sitting really close. How good the 3D is depends on the game (I like the depth from games like Shadow of the Colossus, where you really get a sense of vertigo at times) or the movie.
I'd pay maybe 10%-20% more to have 3D. When I got my 55" Panny ST30, it was discounted down to $900, which made the decision a no-brainer for me. I may upgrade to a 3D projector in the near future, though sitting a few feet from the 55" provides a pretty good wide field of view 3D experience.
Cannon Goose
Member
My hard drive (WD Caviar Blue 1TB) sometimes makes a bunch of sound when it's not in use. I was streaming a video to my Apple TV from my external drive, so the internal HDD was not being accessed, nor was the actual computer itself being used. Despite that I hear this loud whirring and clicking sound like the drive is working real hard, only I'm not using it at all.
Is this normal?
Is this normal?
RibbedHero
Member
I don't think that TV (or any TV for that matter) can accept a 120Hz signal. The TV you linked to does not have a DVI connection, and HDMI cannot carry a 120Hz signal.
That's my understanding of the issue. The TV may very well refresh at 120hz natively, but you can't drive it at 120hz over HDMI, because the spec doesn't allow for it yet. Not at 1080p anyway. It's like that TV is a Ferrari, but someone put a speed limiter on it.
If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will let me have it.
TyrantGuardian
Member
C1 was enough and fixed it. Thanks!
Made a thread about this yesterday, but someone recommended this thread so ii figured I would ask here before pulling the trigger. So, is there any reason not to get an IPS over a TN panel display in the ~$200 price range? There are a few that seem fairly highly rated, such as http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236288 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B007SIC6TA/ref=aw_d_crstars_pc . I'm currently leading towards the Asus. Thank you for any help!
Can someone help me? I recently just moved and was using my PC on a different HDTV for a bit and just recently switched them back. Everything is now stretched on the TV I want to use. Both of the TVs are at 1080p resolution, but the one I am not currently using was physically bigger if that makes a difference.
The only way I can view everything on the screen properly is by uninstalling my Nvidia display drivers. I tried using different versions, but it remains stretched. Has anyone else had this problem?
The only way I can view everything on the screen properly is by uninstalling my Nvidia display drivers. I tried using different versions, but it remains stretched. Has anyone else had this problem?
Well that makes more sense. 120Hz has been a pretty big deal in TVs for a long time and it would be a big surprise if they weren't really native 120Hz.
Not really. There's been nothing to upsell people to for a while.
As explained above it cant display 120 content.
Fair Trial
Member
Go mini ITX. Both ASUS's and ASRock's Z77 ITX boards are phenomenal, and offer great overclocking potential. Pair with a Silverstone FT03 mini if you want a fancy case, or a BitFenix Prodigy if you want a hassle-free build that can run super cool and quiet. The included fans in the Prodigy are silent operating, and you can fit any cooler you want in it. Still modding one that I received from BitFenix a little while ago, and it's one of my most favorite cases I've ever tinkered with.
If you want more than one expansion slot though and therefore want to stick with mATX, Fractal Arc Mini, Define Mini, Lian Li PC-A04, PC-V600, PC-V354, Silverstone FT03, TJ08E, and PS07 are all great cases. TJ08E, A04, V600, and Arc Mini are the most hassle free in terms of not needing to choose parts carefully.
Slacker!
(throwin' stones in a glass house here)
Thanks, actually i have no reason to stick to micro-atx instead of mini-itx.
Do corsair watercooling kits fit the prodigy?
What cpu cooler are you using on your prodigy build?
You still get the benefit of 24 fps films without the judder. Plus some reduction in motion blur.
Rawket Lawnchair
Member
Sorry for posting here, but I don't know where else to ask and I figured that a topic where people with knowledge on builds, is a good topic:
My laptop's monitor went black a while ago and refuses to work. What can I do to fix it?
My laptop's monitor went black a while ago and refuses to work. What can I do to fix it?
General consensus is to skip that stuff, and build something equal or better for hundreds of dollars less. Lots of great info in the OP and we're here to help, as well...
They're all overpriced and weaker than building it yourself. It's really easy, we'll walk you through it and you'll get so much more performance for your dollar/pound/euro/whatever.
Wolf Akela
Member
How does Sandisk fare when it comes to SSDs?
Anyone? I really don't know a whole lot about monitor quality.
Can a new graphics card trip a breaker in my house?
Im having some issues with this now and trying to nail down the problem. I got a new GPU (660ti) to replace my old 6870 on Friday and started having issues yesterday afternoon. Theyre both 150W cards, though and the 660ti actually requires a smaller PSU than the 6870 but Im not an electrician and have no idea if these numbers Im looking at mean anything.
Im having some issues with this now and trying to nail down the problem. I got a new GPU (660ti) to replace my old 6870 on Friday and started having issues yesterday afternoon. Theyre both 150W cards, though and the 660ti actually requires a smaller PSU than the 6870 but Im not an electrician and have no idea if these numbers Im looking at mean anything.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
I wish I could say but knowing the issues I've had with breakers, I would almost argue it not being your PC. I'm not an expert but make sure things that normally aren't running are normal. How much are you running from that one section of your house? It will trip if you have PC's, TV's, fans, AC, or too much running to that one section.
This is only speaking from my experiences from basically ruining part of my grid since the wiring in the house I used to live in was all messed up.
You know, its actually strange. I said "trip a breaker" but its not actually that. The breakers are all fine but there are just sections of the house where the power will go out or the receptacles will die. Yesterday, it was a receptacle in the bathroom upstairs that died when a hairdryer was running from it. This morning, it was the bathroom lights downstairs that died when nothing was really going on.
Its really worrying so someone is going to be over to look at it. In the meantime, Im just trying to narrow down any changes or anything that might be a problem.
RibbedHero
Member
Where the hell is this?
Check out the Alienware X51 thread. If you follow the guide in getting the right model, you can replace the GPU and have a fairly competent gaming rig for a decent price. The only downside to it is a CPU bottleneck in some games due to the limited frequency and inability to overclock.
As pointed out above, it's impossible for HDMI to display 120hz. The TV's use post processing to achieve the same kind of effect you get from true 120hz, but it's not even comparable. Not only that, but it actually adds input lag by increasing post processing time and having a ton of inputs. It's not even like a Ferrari with a speed limiter. The whole thing is just really horrible for gaming purposes.
It really pisses me off that these companies are pushing their products as 120/240hz when it's not even close to the same thing.
Alexios
Cores, shaders and BIOS oh my!
What the? The price is 314 shipped in the Netherlands and I'm sure the demand here is far bigger than in Greece. No cheaper sites available?
RibbedHero
Member
Hmmm? Greater demand normally equals cheaper prices once you factor in the larger market , competition between retailers, etc.
Hi, guys. I'm building 3 office computers for the charity I work for. We've just gotten a grant of £1590 for 3 computers including monitors, peripherals, OS. So it gives me £530 for each one. And whatever we don't use will have to be refunded 
I'm looking at going i3-2120 with integrated graphics and SSD as we certainly don't need much capacity, but don't know what motherboard to get. We will be using Photoshop on the machines but nothing too serious so it'll manage well anyway.
I'm considering going mini-ITX, but whatever the case we want a relatively small form factor.
Any help with the mobo choice would be much appreciated as I'm out of the loop and I find researching this stuff exhausting.
I'm looking at going i3-2120 with integrated graphics and SSD as we certainly don't need much capacity, but don't know what motherboard to get. We will be using Photoshop on the machines but nothing too serious so it'll manage well anyway.
I'm considering going mini-ITX, but whatever the case we want a relatively small form factor.
Any help with the mobo choice would be much appreciated as I'm out of the loop and I find researching this stuff exhausting.
turnbuckle
Member
Figured out what was wrong - there were some bent pins on the cpu socket in the mobo. Everything works perfectly now
iSurvivedTheOutage
Member
PCGaf I have some serious problems with my PC. As of lately It has been acting up really bad ausing me to restore (Mouse jumping around everywhere, certain mouse buttons not responding, Windows not responding and Windows getting stuck at login screen after failing to get it to respond). After The restore, I was able to boot successfully but now every time I put my Computer too sleep....It ceases to wake up. I have to manually power off. The weird part is-that once I manually power down (pressing power button on tower) the PC starts and at the Windows logo it says (resuming Windows) like nothing happened at all. As a side note-when I click my mouse to resume Windows from sleep, the fans speed up and it acts if it is resuming, but no video. I also noticed that during this time that if I hold a key on my Keyboard the LED backlights (as well as other lights on the keyboard) flicker endlessly until I release that key. Also during this time I notice that no lights illuminate on my mouse.
Here are my specs
Asus Maximus Gene-Z Z68 MOBO
Intel I5 2500k Over clocked to 4.3 GHz
EVGA GTX 570 sc
8 gb Ripjaws ddr3
Corsair TX 750w power supply
Windows 7 Professional
Could my Power Supply be going out? Lightning outage maybe quirked with bios and screwed up my settings?
I forget what a good Voltage is supposed to be set at for that overclock. It's been a while since I've been in here.
Any help would be more than appreciated.
Here are my specs
Asus Maximus Gene-Z Z68 MOBO
Intel I5 2500k Over clocked to 4.3 GHz
EVGA GTX 570 sc
8 gb Ripjaws ddr3
Corsair TX 750w power supply
Windows 7 Professional
Could my Power Supply be going out? Lightning outage maybe quirked with bios and screwed up my settings?
I forget what a good Voltage is supposed to be set at for that overclock. It's been a while since I've been in here.
Any help would be more than appreciated.
Hi, guys. I'm building 3 office computers for the charity I work for. We've just gotten a grant of £1590 for 3 computers including monitors, peripherals, OS. So it gives me £530 for each one. And whatever we don't use will have to be refunded
I'm looking at going i3-2120 with integrated graphics and SSD as we certainly don't need much capacity, but don't know what motherboard to get. We will be using Photoshop on the machines but nothing too serious so it'll manage well anyway.
I'm considering going mini-ITX, but whatever the case we want a relatively small form factor.
Any help with the mobo choice would be much appreciated as I'm out of the loop and I find researching this stuff exhausting.
Any of these look great, unless you need specific features like WiFi.
Almost all high-end motherboards hate sleep state. Lots of random conflicts, complex to troubleshoot. Just avoid it. Make sure that the power button is set to turn the computer off rather than hibernate.
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