Yes.
This guy used EK's Universal block and they don't look half bad. I might get different VRM heatsinks though. Don't like the bare copper look.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Yes.
This guy used EK's Universal block and they don't look half bad. I might get different VRM heatsinks though. Don't like the bare copper look.
No no, keep it away from hot air being EXPELLED from the case. As in, you would not want an intake on the back of your case if you have a non-reference videocard, as the hot air being expelled out of the back would be drawn right back in the case.
Awww man. I'm vain though, so that would be a deal killer for me. You should just step up to the classy's.
Awww man. I'm vain though, so that would be a deal killer for me. You should just step up to the classy's.
Read those TOS, can't step up to the same GPU
I will step up if the GK110 is out in the next 6 months.
No no, keep it away from hot air being EXPELLED from the case. As in, you would not want an intake on the back of your case if you have a non-reference videocard, as the hot air being expelled out of the back would be drawn right back in the case.
Awww man. I'm vain though, so that would be a deal killer for me. You should just step up to the classy's.
Ahh, gotcha. Re-read your last post and it makes sense now. Thanks for the clarification.
dragonlife
Member
Thanks for the help. One thing I forgot to mention is that my sister says she wanted something small, so I told her about those little small square cases. What are those called, and would I be able to put regular parts in there (like some from above) or do I need more specific parts for them to fit?
CPU and SSD will probably be OK
Check whether the chassis of the case is still straight, and check that the panels aren't damaged and properly fit
Mini-ITX. You need an ITX motherboard and probably a different powersupply that works with the case.
Found this GTX560 for $140 after rebates, good deal?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I1PGU/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I now have about 60-70$ to play with, and maybe add in an SSD. Is 60-80gb SSD enough for the OS and programs?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I1PGU/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I now have about 60-70$ to play with, and maybe add in an SSD. Is 60-80gb SSD enough for the OS and programs?
legacyzero
Banned
Which 670 would you recommend over the EVGA in my new NXZT Switch 810 case?
Rand0m TAG
Member
is it beneficial to overclock a video card? can anyone give me pointers
I don't think I could see myself with just one (excluding 690)!
So after 4 hours building my first PC, it did not POST.
Cable management alone took me about ~2.5 hrs trying to figure the best way to do it in my TJ08-E.
Anyway my MB Maximus V Gene Q LEDs indicate it is a boot device problem while the Q code 7-segment display shows the code "67" which has something to do with CPU initialization.
At the start-up the Q LEDs which light up in a sequence testing CPU first, then DIMMs, Then VGA, and finally the Boot device. The Q LEDs passes all the first three without any problems but then it hangs on the Boot device LED, the manual says that means there is a problem with it.
I double checked all my connections, the SATA data cables and SATA power are connected properly, tried different SATA ports etc. Seems my Samsung 830 SSD 256GB is broken. It is gonna be hard to return it since I've imported from Amazon US because its not available in my country.
I need to find some other PC/laptop to test the SSD on.
Here is my spec:
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic 560W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit)
Cable management alone took me about ~2.5 hrs trying to figure the best way to do it in my TJ08-E.
Anyway my MB Maximus V Gene Q LEDs indicate it is a boot device problem while the Q code 7-segment display shows the code "67" which has something to do with CPU initialization.
At the start-up the Q LEDs which light up in a sequence testing CPU first, then DIMMs, Then VGA, and finally the Boot device. The Q LEDs passes all the first three without any problems but then it hangs on the Boot device LED, the manual says that means there is a problem with it.
I double checked all my connections, the SATA data cables and SATA power are connected properly, tried different SATA ports etc. Seems my Samsung 830 SSD 256GB is broken. It is gonna be hard to return it since I've imported from Amazon US because its not available in my country.
I need to find some other PC/laptop to test the SSD on.
Here is my spec:
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic 560W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit)
Rand0m TAG
Member
So after 4 hours building my first PC, it did not POST.
Cable management alone took me about ~2.5 hrs trying to figure the best way to do it in my TJ08-E.
Anyway my MB Maximus V Gene Q LEDs indicate it is a boot device problem while the Q code 7-segment display shows the code "67" which has something to do with CPU initialization.
At the start-up the Q LEDs which light up in a sequence testing CPU first, then DIMMs, Then VGA, and finally the Boot device. The Q LEDs passes all the first three without any problems but then it hangs on the Boot device LED, the manual says that means there is a problem with it.
I double checked all my connections, the SATA data cables and SATA power are connected properly, tried different SATA ports etc. Seems my Samsung 830 SSD 256GB is broken. It is gonna be hard to return it since I've imported from Amazon US because its not available in my country.
I need to find some other PC/laptop to test the SSD on.
Here is my spec:
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic 560W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit)
did you try a regular harddrive?
I don't have any atm, but I was planning to add a 3TB HDD to the build soon. Guess I'm off to the PC shops first thing tomorrow.
I honestly don't know what it does for me if I got two (not that I could afford it right now) 670s instead of one going. Just ensuring the highest of frame rates at big resolutions? I don't plan on going over 1080 for my next monitor even.
Alright finalized my friend's build, I think
Core i5 3570K
ASRock Z77 Pro3
ASUS 24X DVD Burner
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Superclocked 1024 MB
NZXT Technologies Source 210
Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus 500w
Patriot DDR3 8GB 1600MHz DUAL G2
Kingston HyperX 3K 120 GB
Total is $590. Pretty good? Making me reallllly want to upgrade from my current build of
E7400 + 512mb 4870. Tempted to buy the 560 for myself now, and use it when I upgrade CPU and all that probably next year. Is it worth it to buy now? It's $140. Or would my CPU be bottlenecking me anyway
Core i5 3570K
ASRock Z77 Pro3
ASUS 24X DVD Burner
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Superclocked 1024 MB
NZXT Technologies Source 210
Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus 500w
Patriot DDR3 8GB 1600MHz DUAL G2
Kingston HyperX 3K 120 GB
Total is $590. Pretty good? Making me reallllly want to upgrade from my current build of
E7400 + 512mb 4870. Tempted to buy the 560 for myself now, and use it when I upgrade CPU and all that probably next year. Is it worth it to buy now? It's $140. Or would my CPU be bottlenecking me anyway
There isn't much point for 1080p. I game at 5760x1080 on 120Hz monitors and so do a couple other gaffers so thats where there is a need for multi-GPU setups.
Yeah, that's what I figured. If I had money to burn, maybe.
Ok, computers put together for the most part. Power came on, dvd drive works, RAM shows up, CPU shows up, SSD shows up, all fans are running, Vid card is installed, but test monitor is old vga monitor, which is running through integrated, but shows up. Bios showed up, don't see issues. Windows 7 seems to be installing. Front power and reset buttons work, HDD and power light are on. Haven't tested front USB, but back USB work (Mouse and Keyboard Work).
Biostar TZ77XE3, the digital readout gives me an A6, which the book skips.
Any suggestions of where I'm at?
Actually, A6 is gone, now flashing numbers, which I believe is the CPU temperture, which is boucning between 30 and 40.
Biostar TZ77XE3, the digital readout gives me an A6, which the book skips.
Any suggestions of where I'm at?
Actually, A6 is gone, now flashing numbers, which I believe is the CPU temperture, which is boucning between 30 and 40.
MagicWithEarvin
Member
A good PSU would be more than enough to power a single 7970, but if you plan to CrossFire in the future then a 650W is what I'd recommend.
IMACOMPUTA
Member
Here's my updated build..
Does anybody have any ideas on how to get the price down a little? I'm trying to get into the $600s.
My client doesn't play a lot of PC games, but said he'd like to be able to if he wanted to..
What is a good GPU in this situation? The 560 might be a little more than he needs...
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. Currently there are $30 in newegg gift cards and $50 in mail in rebates (GPU/MOBO) so I'm considering that -$80 from the final price.
Does anybody have any ideas on how to get the price down a little? I'm trying to get into the $600s.
My client doesn't play a lot of PC games, but said he'd like to be able to if he wanted to..
What is a good GPU in this situation? The 560 might be a little more than he needs...
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. Currently there are $30 in newegg gift cards and $50 in mail in rebates (GPU/MOBO) so I'm considering that -$80 from the final price.
MagicWithEarvin
Member
Here's my updated build..
Does anybody have any ideas on how to get the price down a little? I'm trying to get into the $600s.
My client doesn't play a lot of PC games, but said he'd like to be able to if he wanted to..
What is a good GPU in this situation? The 560 might be a little more than he needs...
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. Currently there are $30 in newegg gift cards and $50 in mail in rebates (GPU/MOBO) so I'm considering that -$80 from the final price.
http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/The_FalconO6/CurrentLogicalPCBuyingGuide/Guide.png
So after 4 hours building my first PC, it did not POST.
Cable management alone took me about ~2.5 hrs trying to figure the best way to do it in my TJ08-E.
Anyway my MB Maximus V Gene Q LEDs indicate it is a boot device problem while the Q code 7-segment display shows the code "67" which has something to do with CPU initialization.
At the start-up the Q LEDs which light up in a sequence testing CPU first, then DIMMs, Then VGA, and finally the Boot device. The Q LEDs passes all the first three without any problems but then it hangs on the Boot device LED, the manual says that means there is a problem with it.
I double checked all my connections, the SATA data cables and SATA power are connected properly, tried different SATA ports etc. Seems my Samsung 830 SSD 256GB is broken. It is gonna be hard to return it since I've imported from Amazon US because its not available in my country.
I need to find some other PC/laptop to test the SSD on.
Here is my spec:
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic 560W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit)
Err, you don't need a boot device to POST
Just the CPU, RAM and a video card (or the onboard display output) should be enough to get you into the bios
If that doesn't work, try with only one stick of RAM and put it into other slots. Also try the mem-ok button if the gene has one
If you still get the CPU initialization error, I'd take out the CPU, grab a magnifying glass and inspect the socket pins really close...
I have a question about temperature using HWmonitor:
which temp should I focus on? When I test using IBT @ Very High, my 2500k@4,5GHz with a CM 212 EVO with a Noctua F12 fan, reaches a maxium of 82 C if I look at the "package" temp. However, if I look at the different "core" temps, none of them go above 76. Are my temps too high? Is "package" the one I should be looking at? Is IBT so unrealistic in the load it puts on the proc that I shouldn't even care about its temps?
edit: got a bit worried so I lowered to 4.0 GHz, now "package" maxes out at 76 C... would you recommend this instead? I want to run it @ 4.5 >_<
which temp should I focus on? When I test using IBT @ Very High, my 2500k@4,5GHz with a CM 212 EVO with a Noctua F12 fan, reaches a maxium of 82 C if I look at the "package" temp. However, if I look at the different "core" temps, none of them go above 76. Are my temps too high? Is "package" the one I should be looking at? Is IBT so unrealistic in the load it puts on the proc that I shouldn't even care about its temps?
edit: got a bit worried so I lowered to 4.0 GHz, now "package" maxes out at 76 C... would you recommend this instead? I want to run it @ 4.5 >_<
Shadowhaxor
Member
Just throwing out there that Compusa / Tigerdirect are selling OCZ Vertex III 120GB drives for $59.99 with rebate / $79.99 without rebate. This is only valid for today and ends at midnight!
If anything that's a cheap raid 0!
http://www.compusa.com/applications...&utm_medium=main&utm_campaign=CUEM1208&cm_lm=
If anything that's a cheap raid 0!
http://www.compusa.com/applications...&utm_medium=main&utm_campaign=CUEM1208&cm_lm=
Man, I really hope it is not the CPU, while installing it made few creaking noises when closing the lever handle...
Trying the mem-Ok button now and one DIMM at a time.
Yeah that sound is normal. I was worried myself but after some research it turned out to be standard.
I like my CM 212 evo. + it is dirt cheap.
ss_lemonade
Member
Closing the cpu lever on my p67 board felt like I was snapping my cpu in half so I guess that's normal.
Just try to keep things simple and plug stuff one after the other, booting in between (starting with a stick of ram and your gpu). Its what I do
Won't fit with my mobo: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA
So after 4 hours building my first PC, it did not POST.
Cable management alone took me about ~2.5 hrs trying to figure the best way to do it in my TJ08-E.
Anyway my MB Maximus V Gene Q LEDs indicate it is a boot device problem while the Q code 7-segment display shows the code "67" which has something to do with CPU initialization.
At the start-up the Q LEDs which light up in a sequence testing CPU first, then DIMMs, Then VGA, and finally the Boot device. The Q LEDs passes all the first three without any problems but then it hangs on the Boot device LED, the manual says that means there is a problem with it.
I double checked all my connections, the SATA data cables and SATA power are connected properly, tried different SATA ports etc. Seems my Samsung 830 SSD 256GB is broken. It is gonna be hard to return it since I've imported from Amazon US because its not available in my country.
I need to find some other PC/laptop to test the SSD on.
Here is my spec:
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic 560W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit)
I'm fucking stupid. I assumed that my MB has onboard speaker so I was waiting for that glorious POST sound, and I didn't hook any speakers or a monitor to the PC because of that.
and when the MB leds were showing a problem with boot device I freaked out, but that led was only telling me that my SSD is not initialized and doesn't have anything on it to boot from!
After hooking a monitor, it was simply hanging on the BIOS screen...
Now Installing Win7 on the SSD.
Hello!
As I was moving out of my family home, I had to take my current PC with me. I shared my room with my brother and we (me with my fresh wife) gave him her old computer. It's pretty shitty and my bro can't play his Diablo 3 on it. I would like to ask for an advice how could I power it up a bit with a very tight budget (really tight, as in the 'lowest modern parts' tight).
It's Current Specs: CPU: Intel Core Duo E6550 Conroe 2,33 GHz / RAM DDR2: Kingston 2 GB (1GB + 1GB) PC2-6400 / Motherboard: ASUS P5KC / GPU: GeForce 210 / Windows 7 64bit
Main Use: Light Gaming (importance: mainly Diablo 3, some Quake Live, maybe a few newer games on low details), General Usage (Word, Web).
Monitor Resolution: It's a pretty new Samsung monitor at 1680x1050
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Diablo 3.
When will you build?: ASAP
Will you be overclocking?: don't think the current processor is overclockable.
I thought of buying 2x2GB of RAM and a GeForce GT 630. Will this set run D3 without changing the processor?
As I was moving out of my family home, I had to take my current PC with me. I shared my room with my brother and we (me with my fresh wife) gave him her old computer. It's pretty shitty and my bro can't play his Diablo 3 on it. I would like to ask for an advice how could I power it up a bit with a very tight budget (really tight, as in the 'lowest modern parts' tight).
It's Current Specs: CPU: Intel Core Duo E6550 Conroe 2,33 GHz / RAM DDR2: Kingston 2 GB (1GB + 1GB) PC2-6400 / Motherboard: ASUS P5KC / GPU: GeForce 210 / Windows 7 64bit
Main Use: Light Gaming (importance: mainly Diablo 3, some Quake Live, maybe a few newer games on low details), General Usage (Word, Web).
Monitor Resolution: It's a pretty new Samsung monitor at 1680x1050
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Diablo 3.
When will you build?: ASAP
Will you be overclocking?: don't think the current processor is overclockable.
I thought of buying 2x2GB of RAM and a GeForce GT 630. Will this set run D3 without changing the processor?
Just wanted to thank whoever made the previous thread. Finally got my account approved so I can send out my gratitude. Made myself my first desktop last year using the guide and absolutely love it.
i5 2500k, 8GB Ram, GTX 570, Define R3, etc
Seems like I'll be making a few upgrades soon
i5 2500k, 8GB Ram, GTX 570, Define R3, etc
Seems like I'll be making a few upgrades soon
When I did my board last year I'd seen gaf say that the 2500k made one hell of a noise being fitted into the board I bought so I didn't worry overly much that mine made some noise.
Turned out I bent a couple pins and it took me quite some time with several magnifying glasses taped together and an insulin needle (that looked like a tree compared to the pins) to fix it.
Moral is noise/no noise, hard/easy - be careful :/
Had problems with my OS.
Copy of Windows 7 Upgrade, Did a fresh install (should have worked as a full install), but the Product ID key I have was coming up invalid.
So, in the meantime (while I wait to get back with the seller) I installed this old Vista release I had. Except it's an old 32 bit OS.
It:
1. Only sees 4 GB of RAM, which is half of whats in there.
2. Won't upgrade to the prementioned Windows 7 upgrade.
3. Things are buggy after getting most of it's relevant updates. Most programs error out (IE specifically, but also vid card catelog suite too). Also came across a "Load MMdriver" that also cancels out.
One thing that I'm seeing at various places, it sounds like I might need to reinstall the graphic drivers. Might try that when I get home, but I also might go grab a full version of Windows 7 and just format what I did last night.
Copy of Windows 7 Upgrade, Did a fresh install (should have worked as a full install), but the Product ID key I have was coming up invalid.
So, in the meantime (while I wait to get back with the seller) I installed this old Vista release I had. Except it's an old 32 bit OS.
It:
1. Only sees 4 GB of RAM, which is half of whats in there.
2. Won't upgrade to the prementioned Windows 7 upgrade.
3. Things are buggy after getting most of it's relevant updates. Most programs error out (IE specifically, but also vid card catelog suite too). Also came across a "Load MMdriver" that also cancels out.
One thing that I'm seeing at various places, it sounds like I might need to reinstall the graphic drivers. Might try that when I get home, but I also might go grab a full version of Windows 7 and just format what I did last night.
Gigabyte.
Can anyone recommend me some reliable, cheap 2TB external drives? Looked a bit at the WD offers but I just have so many bad experiences, my colleague at work even had TWO WD fail on him, our work discs and I saw it myself. I have little faith in WD now.
So I was looking for some recommendations.
EDIT: Never mind, found some dirt cheap Samsung USB 3.0 ones, that'll do. Love Samsung.
So I was looking for some recommendations.
EDIT: Never mind, found some dirt cheap Samsung USB 3.0 ones, that'll do. Love Samsung.
Start -> rightclick "Computer", select "manage" -> in the new Computer Management window, go to "Disk Management" -> select the new disk in the bottom half of the screen, rightclick and format or something like that
Can't believe I forgot to do this, haha, long day at work! Thanks!
Lone_Prodigy
Member
Does anyone have an opinion on this bundle: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=75433&vpn=systembundle9&manufacture=Bundle Deals&promoid=1084
$409.99. Just needs a video card.
How does it compare to these two from Tiger Direct. More rebates but cheaper:
$369.99 AR: http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4238111&CatId=333
$349.99 AR: http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3990672&CatId=333
$409.99. Just needs a video card.
How does it compare to these two from Tiger Direct. More rebates but cheaper:
$369.99 AR: http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4238111&CatId=333
$349.99 AR: http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3990672&CatId=333
JustAnotherOtaku
Member
I come seeking help, GAF. Looking to buy a new PC to replace my laptop in a month or so. Main use will be split between every day browsing and gaming, with some PS2/Wii emulation also planned. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to individual parts etc, but I've started to try to narrow down what I want and have come up with the following.
Intel® Corei5 Quad Core Processor i5-3470 (3.2GHz) 6MB Cache
ASUS® P8H61-MX USB3/SI: uATX, USB 3.0, SATA 3.0Gb/s
16GB SAMSUNG DUAL-DDR3 1333MHz (2 X 8GB)
1GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 550 Ti - DVI, HDMI, VGA - 3D Vision Ready
1TB 3.5" SATA-III 6GB/s HDD 7200RPM 32MB CACHE
WIRELESS 802.11N 300Mbps PCI-E CARD
Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit w/SP1 - inc DVD & Licence
I was hoping to spend £600 max, but the above + postage and keyboard/mouse is ~£700. I basically want something as future proof as possible for that price. Will still be playing most games that make it to PC on PS3/360, but definitely want to start playing more stuff on PC - Skyrim, Battlefield 3, Sleeping Dogs etc and would want it to be able to play games on a decent/high setting for a few years if possible.
Don't need Blu-ray, 3D or a monitor. I'm also not that fussed in having everything on max setting or whatever, as long as it looks/runs equal to or slightly better than on PS3/360 I'm happy.
Anyway, the above stuff may be unrealistic or whatever, but if I can get opinions and narrow things down it would be greatly appreciated!
Intel® Corei5 Quad Core Processor i5-3470 (3.2GHz) 6MB Cache
ASUS® P8H61-MX USB3/SI: uATX, USB 3.0, SATA 3.0Gb/s
16GB SAMSUNG DUAL-DDR3 1333MHz (2 X 8GB)
1GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 550 Ti - DVI, HDMI, VGA - 3D Vision Ready
1TB 3.5" SATA-III 6GB/s HDD 7200RPM 32MB CACHE
WIRELESS 802.11N 300Mbps PCI-E CARD
Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit w/SP1 - inc DVD & Licence
I was hoping to spend £600 max, but the above + postage and keyboard/mouse is ~£700. I basically want something as future proof as possible for that price. Will still be playing most games that make it to PC on PS3/360, but definitely want to start playing more stuff on PC - Skyrim, Battlefield 3, Sleeping Dogs etc and would want it to be able to play games on a decent/high setting for a few years if possible.
Don't need Blu-ray, 3D or a monitor. I'm also not that fussed in having everything on max setting or whatever, as long as it looks/runs equal to or slightly better than on PS3/360 I'm happy.
Anyway, the above stuff may be unrealistic or whatever, but if I can get opinions and narrow things down it would be greatly appreciated!
- Status