Please don't use auto OC. It hurts me
Whats wrong with Auto OC?
Please don't use auto OC. It hurts me
Whats wrong with Auto OC?
CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX750 (CMPSU-750AX) 750W ATX12V v2.31 / EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
FYI--The Seasonic 750 Gold has a $40 off promo code through 2/1 that brings the cost down to $120, and you don't have to futz with rebates like you do with the Corsair.
Both PSUs are made by Seasonic. The Corsair has a longer warranty (7 versus 5), however.
Auto OC is crap in most cases. It tends to up the voltage without needing it, thus creating more heat and can hurt components in the long run. It also tend to use some terrible settings.
Best advice is, always manually OC.
depends on which auto oc settings you use. Safe OC nets you .5 GHz more with an increase in temp of about 1 degree which is small.Auto OC is crap in most cases. It tends to up the voltage without needing it, thus creating more heat and can hurt components in the long run. It also tend to use some terrible settings.
Best advice is, always manually OC.
Been out of the PC Game for about 6 years and I'm ready to jump back in and quite a bit has changed.
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Asus UL30V Netbook
Budget: $1400 - $1600
Main Use: Gaming - 5, General usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback). - 5
Monitor Resolution: Will connect to a Pioneer Plasma 5020FD to play games in 1080P.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, Crysis, Skyrim, Dirt 3
Are reusing any parts?: Just a Pioneer DVD Burner
When will you build?: I'd like to build over the next month.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe
I'd like to use this primarily for gaming and want to be able to play games such as Battlefield 3 with full settings and at a stable frame rate. This will also double as my htpc. I will be hooking the pc up to my home theater so, I don't think I'll need a sound card. One concern of mine is I'd like the computer to be discrete and to blend in with my av rack. It is important to me for the pc to be as silent as possible. Based on the first post and after reading this thread, here is what I've come up with. I listed the full sized case but if I can fit this into a mid size, I'd be really happy. I'm not sure if I can get away with a 650 watt power supply. Also, how much of a difference is the 7950 from the 7970? I see that I can save a little money there if I need to. I don't plan on upgrading for a few years but would like to have the freedom to do so. Feel free to critique as I'm still new at this. If there is anything else I need to add please let me know. Kudos to the OP as this thread has been a tremendous help.
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
Processor: Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
Ram: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model
GPU: MSI R7970-2PMD3GD5/OC Radeon HD 7970 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
Power Supply: CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX750 (CMPSU-750AX) 750W ATX12V v2.31 / EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Storage: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Case: Fractal Design Define XL Black Pearl w/ USB 3.0 ATX Full Tower Silent PC Computer Case
Total comes to $1679.93 with $75 in rebates.
Auto OC is crap in most cases. It tends to up the voltage without needing it, thus creating more heat and can hurt components in the long run. It also tend to use some terrible settings.
Best advice is, always manually OC.
Its spot on with my Asrock board, Ram set to XMP profile by default (4x4GB ram.) and 2700K set to 4.6ghz with voltage of 1.3 and temps of 55c under load.
1) Drop the CPU down to a 2500K. Based on your needs, you don't need the 2600K. It just adds hyperthreading, which will provide a ~20% performance in applications that support 8 cores (games usually don't).
2) Get cheaper RAM without heatsinks. This will give you better compatibility with CPU coolers. RAM speed barely affects performance. My recommendation: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231422 edit: on the other hand, looking at that Corsair RAM, the heatsink is not high at all, so you could stick with it if you want.
3) Get yourself a CPU cooler. This will make your PC much quieter. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099
4) Get the regular Fractal Define R3. No reason to get the XL...especially since you want a smaller case in the first place.
One thing to note: you're getting a top of the line video card and it's going to push a lot of heat. Your rig won't be terribly quiet under full load (though it might not be too bad if the PC is far enough away). The only way to avoid that is to get a case with better airflow along with a video card that comes with a nicer aftermarket cooler. Sadly, none of the 7970s released have really nice coolers...at least not from what I can tell, so your options are limited at this point.
@Keldor, also, if you want something even smaller than a Fractal R3, you could consider something like this:
Silverstone FT03:
You'll need a microATX board like the Asus Maximus Gene IV. Also, it will definitely be harder to put together than a standard build, though apparently this is one of the better designed mATX cases.
So, with that Silverstone case can I still use the rest of the parts I picked out except for the motherboard?
Thanks again. This board is the best.
1. Done. Switching out to a i5 2500 K
2. Cool. I'll stick with this ram then.
3. Added CPU cooler.
4. Switched to the Fractal Define Mid Tower.
5. Noted. Which case would you recommend? I also saw that the 7950s have more fans on them. Should I just go with one of those?
The 7950 Powercolour PCS + model is looking pretty good IMO.
Why not go for a 7970 for about 50 extra bucks?
3) Get yourself a CPU cooler. This will make your PC much quieter. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099
lolnoheatpipes nevermind5. Noted. Which case would you recommend? I also saw that the 7950s have more fans on them. Should I just go with one of those?
Stock coolers on high end cards I don't even bother with.Why not go for a 7970 for about 50 extra bucks?
Personal choice would be the XFX Right now:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150588
I like the double lifetime warranty, helps resale.
I just... kind of assumed it would have heatpipes.I mean why wouldn't it?I'd wait on specific reviews on that one. Previous XFX dual-fan designs have reportedly been poor. Doesn't look like it has any heatpipes either.
I'd go with the tri-slot Asus:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121489
It's the only proven non-reference 7950 cooler. I'd recommend the MSI TwinFrozr as well...but it doesn't appear to be out yet. A bit overpriced, but what can you do.
I'd wait on specific reviews on that one. Previous XFX dual-fan designs have reportedly been poor. Doesn't look like it has any heatpipes either.
I'd go with the tri-slot Asus:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121489
It's the only proven non-reference 7950 cooler. I'd recommend the MSI TwinFrozr as well...but it doesn't appear to be out yet. A bit overpriced, but what can you do.
Ugh.Looking at the Anandtech review the Sapphire HD 7950 Overclock Edition seems like an awesome buy.
I just... kind of assumed it would have heatpipes.I mean why wouldn't it?
Looks like a copper block. XFX I am disappointed.
I'd probably go with the Sapphire then as it is the cheapest with dualfans and heatpipes.
Ugh.
The need for DP (for 120hz monitor) is killing my wallet. Damn you Sapphire with your awesome cards!
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5476/amd-radeon-7950-review/16
Specific page on noise. Dat low dB.
It's XFX. For all the good decisions they've generally made with PSU OEM, they've seemingly made just as many unfortunate (and often cheap) ones with their GPUs. Cutting corners on PCBs, components, warranties, etc. Not that they're alone in this.Still would go with Sapphire, not sure why XFX would make a less effective heatsink for the 7950 and not change any of the dimensions or the design.
Already did, and it is. My issue is that my big (quiet) rig where I record games has dual 560Tis. Switching back and forth between rigs for playing and recording isn't good for muscle memory.
I'm hoping I can hold out to see if the next nvidia cards will have displayport. Knowing me, doubtful.
I am honestly now on the 'wait and see' bandwagon. I think the 7970 and 7950 have taken over the high end marketspace... but I'm a bang for the buck guy and so that doesn't appeal to me until prices drop and competition is heated. My OC'd GTX 570 2.5 GB is about as fast as a stock 7970 and right now that feels like more than enough power.
If nvidia can drop a $300-400 Kepler card with 2GB+ VRAM, awesome OC'ing ability and near 7970 stock performance, I will probably pick that up instead.
I just want a card that can OC to 1.2-1.3Ghz core with high RAM clocks + bandwidth and will be about 30-50% faster than my 570. For $400 or less.
It's called a process and architecture revamp, so yeah, I'd actually expect that.Keep dreaming, a $300-400 card matching a $550 card?
Don't eat for a month and drop that extra $150!
Give me another 8800GT nVidia.
Oh youAlready done. It's called the 9800 GT and the GTS 250.
Anything similar heat/noise wise that doesn't require a backplate? Really don't want to pull my mobo.
I just put together my first PC build. It starts up for 2 seconds and then shuts down. I can seriously cry right now. Any advice?
I'm going to get to adding this eventually:I just put together my first PC build. It starts up for 2 seconds and then shuts down. I can seriously cry right now. Any advice?
I just put together my first PC build. It starts up for 2 seconds and then shuts down. I can seriously cry right now. Any advice?
So get this, i bought new stuff for my pc 2 months ago. Out of all the things i purchased and changed, you would expect headphones to last. Well no these corsair headphones broke. 1st the mic went 3 weeks in, now the left side doesn't play sound. i am rma'ing them this weekend, but man i'm never buying a headset from then again!
Its the corsair hs1a if your wondering what the headset is.
I went through an Astro A40 and a Razer Banshee then just said fuck it and bought a pair of Sennheiser PC350s. I will never "cheap out" on headphones again.
Auto OC is great for those who would otherwise have no intention of overclocking. I have not heard of one case where an auto-OC has hurt components. Systems are more than capable with dealing with extra heat, that's why every piece of hardware has a plethora of thermal sensors in it now. Just because manual overclocking is better doesn't make auto OC any worse. That's like saying aftermarket air coolers are crap, only water cooling will protect your system from overheating.