This is very very interesting. 7200RPM cav green, definitely a new model. Thanks for the heads up!
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
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Lionel Mandrake
Member
Alright, I don't know shit about PCs and want to build my own, mostly as an attempt to learn about them.
I know the OP says to start with the case so you know what components will fit, but I've got caught up in the whole black friday thing and the next thing I know, I have a 3TB hard drive on the way.
In a couple hours they're going to have 16GB RAM go on sale.
I don't have a motherboard yet, but would this be worth grabbing? I mean is it compatible with most boards and is there a reason I shouldn't get it?
I know the OP says to start with the case so you know what components will fit, but I've got caught up in the whole black friday thing and the next thing I know, I have a 3TB hard drive on the way.
In a couple hours they're going to have 16GB RAM go on sale.
I don't have a motherboard yet, but would this be worth grabbing? I mean is it compatible with most boards and is there a reason I shouldn't get it?
Jackben
bitch I'm taking calls.
I'll let someone else pick up the more technical questions but I just want to de-intimidate you if you have any reservations whatsoever: it really is a ton easier than it looks and you'll be reaping the benefits hand over fist from what you would get if you went pre-built. It's fun, informative and fulfilling to put together a rig yourself for the first time.
Only downside is you become turned on to things you didn't before and your wallet gets a beating when SSDs and graphics cards go on sale.
atomic moth
Member
I'm comparing prices between amazon and newegg. I was going by the first guide mentioned in the OP, but it looks like the second guide is more in line with what is common.
Neither is a good buy, unless you're cool with 1080P and no AA with a fairly quick demise in terms of performance capability over the next 2 years.
The new AMD drivers made this situation even worse. The 7950, which is the same price as the 660Ti, is outperforming the 670 right now.
So, 7850->7950->670 (still an option thanks to low power and NVIDIA features)->7970 is the only buying order that makes sense right now.
This x1000.
RumblingRosco
Member
Any suggestions for keyboards that cost less than $20? Only use is for basic internet browsing, Office programs, etc. No gaming or special function keys are needed. I'd ideally like something that has a full keyboard, including numpad, but if it is slim/has chiclet keys/isn't bulky, that would be preferred. Any suggestions? I was looking at an inexpensive Rosewill, but I also want one that can be elevated; the Rosewill I was looking at is totally flat and doesn't have any fold out feet to give it some elevation.
The Frankman
Banned
This is where I'm at:
Case: ($49.99, NCIX.com) Cooler Master HAF 912 Black Mid Tower ATX Case 4X5.25 1X3.5 6X3.5INT No PS Front USB Sound
Motherboard: ($89.99, 69.99 w/ rebate - NewEgg) BIOSTAR TZ77B LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
CPU: ($129.99, NewEgg) Intel Core i3-3220 Ivy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA 1155 55W Dual-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2500 BX80637i33220
GPU: (FREE?) EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) FPB 1GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card * - I have a couple, I can plugin one and see if it works.
RAM: ($34.99, Amazon.com) Samsung Extreme Low Voltage 30nm UDIMM 8 Dual Channel Kit DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM MV-3V4G3D/US
HDD: (FREE) Western Digital WD Black WD7501AALS 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Hard Drive * - Will put it in new build, 750 GB is enough for me... for now.
PSU: ($39.99, NewEgg) Antec VP-450 450 Watt Energy Star Certified Power Supply
PartPicker
I'm reading alot of posts talking about how the Antec VP-450 Power supply isn't ideal for gaming. All I plan to play is Guild Wars 2, Doom 3, Dragon Age: Origins (which I play on a much weaker computer), and maybe Diablo 3 if I buy it within 6 months. Should I back off on getting that power supply? If so, any suggestions? I plan to start buying stuff tonight, HALP!
EDIT: Also should I look into getting a good CPU cooler?
Case: ($49.99, NCIX.com) Cooler Master HAF 912 Black Mid Tower ATX Case 4X5.25 1X3.5 6X3.5INT No PS Front USB Sound
Motherboard: ($89.99, 69.99 w/ rebate - NewEgg) BIOSTAR TZ77B LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
CPU: ($129.99, NewEgg) Intel Core i3-3220 Ivy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA 1155 55W Dual-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2500 BX80637i33220
GPU: (FREE?) EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) FPB 1GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card * - I have a couple, I can plugin one and see if it works.
RAM: ($34.99, Amazon.com) Samsung Extreme Low Voltage 30nm UDIMM 8 Dual Channel Kit DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM MV-3V4G3D/US
HDD: (FREE) Western Digital WD Black WD7501AALS 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Hard Drive * - Will put it in new build, 750 GB is enough for me... for now.
PSU: ($39.99, NewEgg) Antec VP-450 450 Watt Energy Star Certified Power Supply
PartPicker
I'm reading alot of posts talking about how the Antec VP-450 Power supply isn't ideal for gaming. All I plan to play is Guild Wars 2, Doom 3, Dragon Age: Origins (which I play on a much weaker computer), and maybe Diablo 3 if I buy it within 6 months. Should I back off on getting that power supply? If so, any suggestions? I plan to start buying stuff tonight, HALP!
EDIT: Also should I look into getting a good CPU cooler?
Could you elaborate? Is it a huge difference? I'm a noob at current pc builds.
Before I discovered this thread I decided to build a new pc and the parts are on the way. I had not upgraded for 6 years here is what I ordered:
CPU: AMD FX 8350 eight core
RAM: GSKILL RIPJAW DDR3 1600
MOBO: ASRock 970 extreme 3
SSD: Samsung 830
CD Drive: LiteOn
CPU Cooler: Zalman cnps5x performa
CASE: cooler master haf 912
I notice in this thread there are a lot of recommendations for intel chips but I'm stubborn and stuck with AMD.
Jackben
bitch I'm taking calls.
The answer here is no unless you plan to overclock.
I ended up getting an aftermarket cooler but I haven't gotten into overclocking and it's probably overkill for what my CPU needs.
Lionel Mandrake
Member
Thank you.
Yeah. I think I should be able to figure it out. If not, there's GAF.
There's no point being stubborn, the Intel's are just far superior in that price range and are a much, much better buy.
About 15-20% lower performance than the Ti.
If you want to know why we are avoiding recommending AMD processors, read this for more detail. Basically, in gaming performance, Bulldozer is actually worse than Phenom II X4s, which are worse than Lynnfield, which are worse than Nehalem, which are worse than Sandy, which are worse than Ivy. Vishera/Piledriver is better, but still not even close to Intel.
I was an AMD loyalist for ages, but there's no sense in putting your money towards worse hardware. That just encourages bad market behavior.
March-June 2013 is all we know as a best guess. Chances are it won't be huge unless power draw is really important to you.
The Frankman
Banned
This kinda happened to me with my other board, I planned to overclock it from 2 Ghz (lol 6 years ago) but never did.
It's a lot easier with IVB/SB. Two values in BIOS nets you 15-30% increased linear performance.
You would need to add a 'K' model processor to your build in order to do so. You could swap out the motherboard with a H77 model as well, if there is one from the OP on sale, if you plan on keeping the i3 and not overclocking.
Picked up a
3TB HD for 89.99 and a 7850 2GB for 139.99.
Finally finished my PC (Started in June LOL) in terms of hardware
Now I gotta decide how to manage the software.
I have 3 drives right now.
A 128gb 830 Samsung.
A 1 TB WD Black.
A 3 TB Seagate.
I have the OS on the SSD. I plan to use the 1 TB WD installed as my installed games/apps drive.
The 3 TB will be mainly storage. How should I partician this? I was think 3 1 TB parts. Games/Media/Misc(Virtual Machines ect).
My main question is what to do with 3 applications and whether to install them on the WD black or the SSD.
Visual Studio
Sql Server
Office
I'm pretty sure the SQL Servers gonna end up on the WD Black but not sure if Office and VS will see major improvements on the SSD.
3TB HD for 89.99 and a 7850 2GB for 139.99.
Finally finished my PC (Started in June LOL) in terms of hardware
Now I gotta decide how to manage the software.
I have 3 drives right now.
A 128gb 830 Samsung.
A 1 TB WD Black.
A 3 TB Seagate.
I have the OS on the SSD. I plan to use the 1 TB WD installed as my installed games/apps drive.
The 3 TB will be mainly storage. How should I partician this? I was think 3 1 TB parts. Games/Media/Misc(Virtual Machines ect).
My main question is what to do with 3 applications and whether to install them on the WD black or the SSD.
Visual Studio
Sql Server
Office
I'm pretty sure the SQL Servers gonna end up on the WD Black but not sure if Office and VS will see major improvements on the SSD.
atomic moth
Member
So here's a question:
If I got this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227442
And added in a 7850 GPU, would that work? I could add a 450W power supply as well, and it would still be cheaper than the recommended build I have been coming up with in my last few posts, keeping in mind that I would have to buy windows.
I appreciate everyone's patience with what are probably dumb questions
If I got this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227442
And added in a 7850 GPU, would that work? I could add a 450W power supply as well, and it would still be cheaper than the recommended build I have been coming up with in my last few posts, keeping in mind that I would have to buy windows.
I appreciate everyone's patience with what are probably dumb questions
That has an H61 motherboard too, which will become a bottleneck over the next two years in terms of upgrading your videocard, as it is PCI-E 2.0. I'd avoid it, but if the bit of savings is worth it to you, it seems like an okay deal (outside of crappy PSU and motherboard).
No doubt, it will certainly feel snappy. On the positive side of things, it does have really good multithreaded performance, like encoding/rendering if you do any of that.
So after much debate I pulled the trigger on a long overdue upgrade. Despite everyone's advice to go Intel, my fondness for underdogs drove me to go AMD and I've been pleasantly suprised.
CPU: FX 6300
Mobo: ASUS m5a97 r2.0
RAM: 8GB GSkill Ripjaw DDR3 1600
SSD: 128GB Samsung 840 (Yeah, I know... should've gone 830)
All in ~$350.
I'm running an old 5830 that's going to bottleneck me for now, but I'd like to play with overclocking anyway. So far I've just done a straight multiplier increase to hit 4.0 ghz and I'm hitting about 41 degrees under full load in prime95. I figure I can easily get a stable 4.4-4.6 with my Hyper 212+ but I have no idea what I'm doing with AMDs and it's going to be more involved than simple multiplier/voltage tweaking. Anyone have any advice or guide recommendations?
CPU: FX 6300
Mobo: ASUS m5a97 r2.0
RAM: 8GB GSkill Ripjaw DDR3 1600
SSD: 128GB Samsung 840 (Yeah, I know... should've gone 830)
All in ~$350.
I'm running an old 5830 that's going to bottleneck me for now, but I'd like to play with overclocking anyway. So far I've just done a straight multiplier increase to hit 4.0 ghz and I'm hitting about 41 degrees under full load in prime95. I figure I can easily get a stable 4.4-4.6 with my Hyper 212+ but I have no idea what I'm doing with AMDs and it's going to be more involved than simple multiplier/voltage tweaking. Anyone have any advice or guide recommendations?
HarryDemeanor
Member
So... 2025. Got it.
Soon...
Your CPU will be bottlenecking you in a lot of instances, notably Blizzard and UE3 titles.
These were the best BD OC articles I could dig up awhile back:
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyt...caling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming.html
http://www.techinstyle.tv/201113191...-formula-amd-fx-bulldozer-overclocking-guide/
Azzurri
Gold Member
I have a p68 board with a i2500k so I figured I'd wait for Haswell in 6 month then upgrade now. I know I don't need to but I just love updating every two years
HarryDemeanor
Member
The power supply is fine so there's no need for concern there. Also since you have an i3 in your build there is no need for an aftermarket CPU cooler because it can't be overclocked. It'll be fine with the stock cooler it comes with.
atomic moth
Member
Has anyone successfully kept their copy of windows intact through a motherboard replacement? Certain places I read say its difficult and doesn't always work, others say its not a problem.
I don't want to buy another copy of windows when upgrading.
I don't want to buy another copy of windows when upgrading.
You mean installation? You want to reformat. MS should okay it after a phone call.
Unless you want it to run more quiet, which is the other reason why folks want to ditch the stock solution.
My copy of win7 pro worked fine after my cpu/mobo upgrade. Had to use the phone activation though. Scared me with an invalid key message first.
atomic moth
Member
Yea. I would eventually change the GPU, power supply, and motherboard on that as-built unit I mentioned earlier. But if windows will not carry over than it wouldn't be worth the price.
MrCunningham
Member
It's a lot easier with IVB/SB. Two values in BIOS nets you 15-30% increased linear performance.
You would need to add a 'K' model processor to your build in order to do so. You could swap out the motherboard with a H77 model as well, if there is one from the OP on sale, if you plan on keeping the i3 and not overclocking.
Reading all this chat about overclocking has got me interested.
My PC specs:
CPU: i5-2500K with the stock cooler
Motherboard: Biostar TZ77B with the latest BIOS installed.
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600
PSU: 630Watt Rosewill 80+ certified ( this model )
GPU: Gigabyte 660ti Windforce (not like this matters)
I have never overclocked anything in my life. I don't really want to attempt overclocking anything until I have enough knowledge to know what I am doing. So I have a few questions to ask:
- With this motherboard/ CPU combination, what would it take to overclock my system?
- Does anybody have any experience with this motherboard? What would be the limitations on this particular motherboard? Does anyone know?
- Would I need to replace the stock cooler with something better?
- Are there any particular overclocking tutorials for the motherboard/ BIOS that I am using?
Sigh. Here's hoping for better multi-threaded support in future games. Thanks for the links. Looks like I have a fair bit of reading to do.
DeuceGamer
Member
I posted about a month ago that I planned on starting my first Gaming PC build after the New Year. I've been monitoring the Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales. Anything I should know about the Rosewill Challenger at the link below before purchasing it?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147153
Is that a good price (according to OP it's ~$15 off)? Any reason to pick the case below instead?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17C-0007-00002
I plan on going with an i5 3570K CPU and either an HD7970 or GTX 680 GPU after the New Year but haven't bought any components yet. I plan on picking up parts when finding them on sale over the next ~2 months and then picking up whatever I haven't purchased. Any reason to wait on either of the cases above?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147153
Is that a good price (according to OP it's ~$15 off)? Any reason to pick the case below instead?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17C-0007-00002
I plan on going with an i5 3570K CPU and either an HD7970 or GTX 680 GPU after the New Year but haven't bought any components yet. I plan on picking up parts when finding them on sale over the next ~2 months and then picking up whatever I haven't purchased. Any reason to wait on either of the cases above?
Even with n-threaded games, the major issue is frame latency, which won't be fixed.
1) Nothing outside of altering two values in BIOS.
2) Shouldn't be any.
3) If you want to go past 3.9-4.0ish range.
4) OP, BIOS might be different, but it's all the same procedure. Google might turn up a few results for you if you need help finding specifics.
MrCunningham
Member
I don't have any hands on experience with the Thermaltake Versa II, but I do own that same Rosewill CHALLENGER Black case. The Rosewill case is pretty good for the price. It comes with a lot of cooling options and sufficient amount of room. The two 4 pin default fans can be a little noisy on the system though, but they can be easily replaced with fans that are a lot quieter. I haven't had any problems with the case in general, it's really solid if you are on a budget.
That Thermaltake Versa II looks similar but lacks the extra fans that are included with the Rosewill case. Though all that is really needed is one 120MM exhaust fan anyway. But it does have two USB 3.0 connections at the front, which makes up for it. There is also a version of the Rosewill CHALLENGER Black case with USB 3.0 on the front as well, but that one does cost a little more.
Choosing between these two cases, I think it really comes down to what you think looks better, and if you prefer to have USB 3.0 ports on the front or not.
I don't have any plans of overclocking beyond 4.0GHZ, I am not even sure if I want to push it up past 3.8. I am mostly curious at this point and would probably overclock in smaller increments until I feel confident enough to push the clock speeds higher. I have Googled for this motherboard model with very little results, but I assume it isn't much different from overclocking any other brands of motherboard that are in the same specs range.
Gaming mostly oh well I can always return the MOBO and CPU if I don't feel it's up to snuff. GPU I'm stuck with however.
If you can return it, I definitely would right away.
Yeah, it's just multiplier and Vcore/CPU Voltage that you are looking to change. Where they are in BIOS would be the only thing that's different. With 3.9-4.0, you probably won't even need to change your voltage.
It's super safe. I tried booting up my computer probably like 15 times, with it turning on for small portions, running it at near 5.0GHz and 1.45V before realizing I had put the wrong standoffs on my waterblock, so it was sitting a CM above the CPU surface. You can't really screw anything up with the number of failsafes they have unless you go to crazy high volts, which most motherboards even prevent in the first place.
Hmm. That's unfortunate. I thought piledriver addressed some of the latency issues.
A little bit. In CPU bottlenecked games, it's behind Lynnfield in FPS (first gen Core processors), but ahead of Lynnfield in frame latency. Still behind SB and IB in both.
http://techreport.com/review/23750/amd-fx-8350-processor-reviewed/6
http://techreport.com/review/23750/amd-fx-8350-processor-reviewed/6
DeuceGamer
Member
Great feedback on the case. With the Rosewill Challengar I can always add USB 3.0 using a modular front panel, right? Anything I should know about that?
That's a really interesting article. Looks like vishera gets hammered in all the latency tests except for BF3 where it comes in on top. I don't have any idea why that would be.
I wish the test included the 6300. Even considering the latency issues it seems like it would compare favorably with similarly priced i3s. Oh well. At least piledriver seems somewhat competitive value-wise if you're willing to overlook the poor power consumption.
tiger direct just had it for $250, so hopefully they match it.
So I decided to hook up my PC to my old Samsung LA32M61B through HDMI. I have both displays working, however I can't seem to get games running on it. The TV apparently has a resolution of 1366x768, but I ran Chivalry at 800x600 and nothing happens. However if I run Hotline Miami it runs fine. What's the issue?
The Frankman
Banned
Yeah, you guys are right. I was just wondering because I'm kinda a tweaker and it would mean I'd have to overhaul everything. I need to stop being greedy, I'm coming from a AMD Athlon 2 Ghz processor w/ 2 GB of memory here.
When I said earlier this is my computer/board for the next 5-6 years, I wasn't kidding. The computer I use now I built in 2006!
HarryDemeanor
Member
I hear ya. My PC was built in 2007 so it's about time I get current tech.Yeah, you guys are right. I was just wondering because I'm kinda a tweaker and it would mean I'd have to overhaul everything. I need to stop being greedy, I'm coming from a AMD Athlon 2 Ghz processor w/ 2 GB of memory here.
When I said earlier this is my computer/board for the next 5-6 years, I wasn't kidding. The computer I use now I built in 2006!
I'll take your word for it since I don't personally know how loud the stock coolers are these days. Though for me I just find it a waste of cash if it wasn't going to be used for overclocking, especially in a budget build.
No reason, unless you have a Z77 board and need PCI-E 3.0 for multiple high end cards at large format resolutions (1440p or multi-monitor).
If you have the PSU to support it, yeah. I'd actually snag a used one if I were in your shoes. Sk3tch might have his 580 around.
This is all dependent upon whether or not you are unhappy with your performance.
I mean, I upgraded from (on my main rig) 5870 -> CF 5870 -> SLI 560Tis -> 7970 -> 690 -> 3xSLI 670s, so I certainly understand the urge to upgrade.
Have you thought about going socket 2011? The 3820 is on sale today for like $260. Leaves you room to go Ivy-E when it's released sometime next summer/fall.
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