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[JJBro One]

will oc'ing a 2500k to 4.5 and a 3770k to 4.5 result in the same performance? If not what's the difference? I also have a z68 mobo, is it unwise to use an ivy bridge with it?

 

[Azzurri]

No reason, unless you have a Z77 board and need PCI-E 3.0 for multiple high end cards at large format resolutions (1440p or multi-monitor).

If you have the PSU to support it, yeah. I'd actually snag a used one if I were in your shoes. Sk3tch might have his 580 around.

Cool, yea I have 1000KW SIlverstone PSU

 

[Lkr]

will oc'ing a 2500k to 4.5 and a 3770k to 4.5 result in the same performance? If not what's the difference?

i5 is 4 cores/4 threads while i7 is 4 cores/8 threads. you'll get better performance from the i7 in CPU intensive applications like encoding media or rendering graphics. if it is just for gaming, go with the i5.

is there any reason to upgrade ram with a new build? i took care of my build, and i'm doing a similar one for my brother. he already has 4gb of ddr3-1300 ram. any real reason to swap it out for ddr3-1600?

 

[JJBro One]

i5 is 4 cores/4 threads while i7 is 4 cores/8 threads. you'll get better performance from the i7 in CPU intensive applications like encoding media or rendering graphics. if it is just for gaming, go with the i5.

is there any reason to upgrade ram with a new build? i took care of my build, and i'm doing a similar one for my brother. he already has 4gb of ddr3-1300 ram. any real reason to swap it out for ddr3-1600?

so if it's just for gaming I will see no difference with the i7 at all? Even for cpu intensive games?

 

[mkenyon]

so if it's just for gaming I will see no difference with the i7 at all? Even for cpu intensive games?

Correct. Single threaded performance is all that matters in the CPU-bound games. (meaning how much each core/thread kicks ass, and only up to two of them)

is there any reason to upgrade ram with a new build? i took care of my build, and i'm doing a similar one for my brother. he already has 4gb of ddr3-1300 ram. any real reason to swap it out for ddr3-1600?

Eh, not really.

 

[MrCunningham]

Great feedback on the case. With the Rosewill Challengar I can always add USB 3.0 using a modular front panel, right? Anything I should know about that?

If your planned motherboard supports USB 3.0 headers (and any new motherboard should support this now) then it should be easy to plug in a USB 3.0 front panel.

If you can return it, I definitely would right away.

Yeah, it's just multiplier and Vcore/CPU Voltage that you are looking to change. Where they are in BIOS would be the only thing that's different. With 3.9-4.0, you probably won't even need to change your voltage.

It's super safe. I tried booting up my computer probably like 15 times, with it turning on for small portions, running it at near 5.0GHz and 1.45V before realizing I had put the wrong standoffs on my waterblock, so it was sitting a CM above the CPU surface. You can't really screw anything up with the number of failsafes they have unless you go to crazy high volts, which most motherboards even prevent in the first place.

Alright, thanks for the info. This site here suggests that I could overclock up to 4.6GHZ with an ivy core :

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1998/13/

So I guess anywhere from 3.8-4.0 with a Sandy bridge should be doable. The reviewer also suggests that it is just a turbo multiplier/ vcore setting (like you just said). It is good to know that I can actually see some images on what Bios settings I should change. But since I will not push the multiplier here past 4.0, then leaving the vcore as it is will be alright? What is a good indicator in knowing when I should turn the vcore settings up higher?

 

[Lkr]

Correct. Single threaded performance is all that matters in the CPU-bound games. (meaning how much each core/thread kicks ass, and only up to two of them)

Eh, not really.

ok. i just always see new ram speeds and all, and i actually went and looked at some benchmarks to see if there really is a big difference even between ddr to ddr2 to ddr3, and it really wasn't that impressive. just wondering if anything has really changed. the only thing i am impressed by is the fact that each generation is much cheaper than the previous

 

[TheD]

Correct. Single threaded performance is all that matters in the CPU-bound games. (meaning how much each core/thread kicks ass, and only up to two of them)

Lots of games have more than 2 threads.

It is just that most don't have more than 4 heavy threads (and that Hyperthreading is not like an extra set of cores, just an optimization)

 

[DTKT]

Well, fuck

http://semiaccurate.com/2012/11/26/intel-kills-off-the-desktop-pcs-go-with-it/

 

[arab]

so i was in the process of ordering parts to build my PC when an hp computer fell into my possession...

cpu: i7 3770
ram: 12gb
storage: 2 TB
gpu: ati radeon 7450 HD

now, i know the gpu is utter garbage. i must ask, what would be a good replacement that will complement the current specs? I'm looking to spend between 150-250 but that's flexible.

 

[mkenyon]

If your planned motherboard supports USB 3.0 headers (and any new motherboard should support this now) then it should be easy to plug in a USB 3.0 front panel.



Alright, thanks for the info. This site here suggests that I could overclock up to 4.6GHZ with an ivy core :

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1998/13/

So I guess anywhere from 3.8-4.0 with a Sandy bridge should be doable. The reviewer also suggests that it is just a turbo multiplier/ vcore setting (like you just said). It is good to know that I can actually see some images on what Bios settings I should change. But since I will not push the multiplier here past 4.0, then leaving the vcore as it is will be alright? What is a good indicator in knowing when I should turn the vcore settings up higher?

I'm sorry I didn't make this more clear, there is an OC guide from the OP for 1155 processors.

http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html

Here's what I would do, increase to 4.0 GHz. Run Prime 95 Small FFT for 10 minutes. If it does not crash, you're good to go. If it does, increase by .01 (or closest number to .01), run P95 Small FFT again and repeat that process until stable. It should be stable without adjusting voltage though. Make sure you have hardware monitor running to monitor temps during the process. Keep away from high 70s.

Links to programs here: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=33171163&postcount=5

If you want to stick an aftermarket heatsink on there, then you could start at 4.5/1.38V and work your way back/forward.

Well, fuck

http://semiaccurate.com/2012/11/26/intel-kills-off-the-desktop-pcs-go-with-it/

Terrible article.

That brings us to the next issue at hand, enthusiasts. They are pretty much dead, not that Intel seems to care. Since they nearly destroyed that nascent market with Nehalem, and have since progressively removed any features the enthusiast cares about while jacking the cost to buy them back to untenable levels, enthusiasts have become an endangered species. Unfortunately Intel doesn’t care about the enthusiast, and unsurprisingly they have moved on. ARM chips are now the focus for that crowd, and they are taking the mainstream geeks with them. Broadwell will end it for good, but….

I mean really? What the hell is this garbage?

I think, what *might* happen if any of this is actually true is that enthusiasts will have to stick to the ENTHUSIAST socket. This is for tinkerers of course. Their two tiered system does seem to fit into that, like Ivy and Ivy-E, Sandy and Sandy-E.

For people who aren't tinkerers, it will mean you get a totally rocking system on a board you know is going to work. What is bad about that?

Lots of games have more than 2 threads.

It is just that most don't have more than 4 heavy threads (and that Hyperthreading is not like an extra set of cores, just an optimization)

Yes, but those games traditionally do not place the bottleneck on the CPU. Efficiently coded games like BF3 and Civ V place the bottleneck entirely on the GPU. Games/Engines where FPS is highly tied to CPU performance are single and dual threaded. Starcraft 2 and UE3 are the main culprits.

 

[beje]

so i was in the process of ordering parts to build my PC when an hp computer fell into my possession...

cpu: i7 3770
ram: 12gb
storage: 2 TB
gpu: ati radeon 7450 HD

now, i know the gpu is utter garbage. i must ask, what would be a good replacement that will complement the current specs? I'm looking to spend between 150-250 but that's flexible.

You can get a 7850 or 7870. Both are great value on that budget.

 

[Ceebs]

Ok, troubleshooting time.

Does this sound like a PSU problem to anyone?

2 weeks ago my GPU froze and gave me a black screen. Never managed to get it to display again so I sent it off for a RMA.

Just now it happened again with my old GPU. Same problem.

I am thinking something is up with the PSU causing it to kill these cards.

 

[DTKT]

At the same time, the desktop market is shrinking while the mobile/Tablet is booming. There is a point where manufacturers will have to make a choice between focusing on one of the two markets.

It might not be next year, but it's bound to happen.

 

[FinKL]

Definitely could be PSU. It's really hard to tell unless you individually test the PSU and other parts to narrow it down.

I had replaced my GPU (wouldn't display) with a brand new 1 and it would still lock up. Pretty much pulled my hair out until I replaced it with a new PSU and low and behold, no lock ups.

 

[mkenyon]

At the same time, the desktop market is shrinking while the mobile/Tablet is booming. There is a point where manufacturers will have to make a choice between focusing on one of the two markets.

It might not be next year, but it's bound to happen.

Hardware sales actually increase every year pretty regularly for like 5+ now. Desktop sales =/= health of PC Market.

Here's a better article: http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/cpu/di...hangeable_Desktop_Microprocessors_Report.html

It is likely that high-end desktop (HEDT) platforms will still be supplied in LGA packaging.

Called it.

Ok, troubleshooting time.

Does this sound like a PSU problem to anyone?

2 weeks ago my GPU froze and gave me a black screen. Never managed to get it to display again so I sent it off for a RMA.

Just now it happened again with my old GPU. Same problem.

I am thinking something is up with the PSU causing it to kill these cards.

Yeah, I'd try out a different PSU first.

 

[JJBro One]

Correct. Single threaded performance is all that matters in the CPU-bound games. (meaning how much each core/thread kicks ass, and only up to two of them)

Eh, not really.

So what would I need a 3770k for?

 

[mkenyon]

So what would I need a 3770k for?

Multithreaded performance in multimedia creation, hosting lots of virtual machines, other network/systems stuff that is over my head

 

[Trojita]

So is the R4 case still the one to buy?

Budget is $100-$250

 

[Shambles]

Did my first Windows 8 install last night and what a piece of shit it is. After the failure of UNetBootin caused me to lose a couple hours of absolute bullshit in the first place I didn't have much patience.

Started the install, everything goes smoothly at first. Punch in my serial from the upgrade version I bought from the microsoft website and it starts installing. Once I get into the actual system is when the garbage starts. The damn OS stonewalls you from finishing your operating install until you buckle down and create a Microsoft Store account. Why the hell would I ever want a microsoft store account and why the hell is a god damn operating system trying to literally force me into their store. Not only do they want an account but they ask for every bit of personal information they can except your blood type, this is exactly the evil type of Microsoft stereotype that they were made fun of for in the 90's. I end up getting around it by physically having to unplug my ethernet connection before Windows will let me bypass that screen. I go to add additional users and it forces every single user on the computer to have a microsoft store account. Unbelievable, at least I've gone through this once already and quickly yank out the ethernet again. I've had to do less trouble shooting installing linux ten years ago.

Now I get home today and the computer is bitching that I need to activate windows. Activate windows? I punched in my legal serial yesterday? Searching around it seems that even though Microsoft gives you an ISO to do a clean install you can't actually do a clean install of an upgrade version. Now in order to get my Windows 8 legit I have to wipe my entire install, install my old XP copy that I still have a retail copy of kicking around, and do a dirty ass upgrade install over XP giving me who knows how much garbage left over from the old operating system.

Farewell Microsoft. I'll leech onto 7 for as long as it takes for Valve to making gaming on linux a reality. You've seen your last dime from me and I certainly won't be "upgrading" my other computers in the house to 8.

 

[Jzero]

Did my first Windows 8 install last night and what a piece of shit it is. After the failure of UNetBootin caused me to lose a couple hours of absolute bullshit in the first place I didn't have much patience.

Started the install, everything goes smoothly at first. Punch in my serial from the upgrade version I bought from the microsoft website and it starts installing. Once I get into the actual system is when the garbage starts. The damn OS stonewalls you from finishing your operating install until you buckle down and create a Microsoft Store account. Why the hell would I ever want a microsoft store account and why the hell is a god damn operating system trying to literally force me into their store. Not only do they want an account but they ask for every bit of personal information they can except your blood type, this is exactly the evil type of Microsoft stereotype that they were made fun of for in the 90's. I end up getting around it by physically having to unplug my ethernet connection before Windows will let me bypass that screen. I go to add additional users and it forces every single user on the computer to have a microsoft store account. Unbelievable, at least I've gone through this once already and quickly yank out the ethernet again. I've had to do less trouble shooting installing linux ten years ago.

Now I get home today and the computer is bitching that I need to activate windows. Activate windows? I punched in my legal serial yesterday? Searching around it seems that even though Microsoft gives you an ISO to do a clean install you can't actually do a clean install of an upgrade version. Now in order to get my Windows 8 legit I have to wipe my entire install, install my old XP copy that I still have a retail copy of kicking around, and do a dirty ass upgrade install over XP giving me who knows how much garbage left over from the old operating system.

Farewell Microsoft. I'll leech onto 7 for as long as it takes for Valve to making gaming on linux a reality. You've seen your last dime from me and I certainly won't be "upgrading" my other computers in the house to 8.

This is complete bullshit and you know it. You can always create a local account and are not forced to use a Microsoft account.

 

[mkenyon]

So is the R4 case still the one to buy?

Budget is $100-$250

It's my favorite.

There's some recent releases that are pretty nice too. Lian Li PC-7HX, and this V700X is $170 right now with a promo code. Pretty rad little case, but not the best on noise and you can only fit in a single large card.

This is complete bullshit and you know it. You can always create a local account and are not forced to use a Microsoft account.

Maybe he didn't know it? Benefit of the doubt mang.

 

[sorijealut]

So guys, I'm a COMPLETELY new to building.

I'm thinking of building a ~$700-800 computer.

So far I have ASUS 23.6" VS247H-S $120 monitor
from black friday.

I'm thinking about getting an Antec 300, should I buy the newer or the older?
also looking at Microcenter's 3570K + mobo combos.

All I have in mind so far, lol.

 

[RedSwirl]

Why are motherboard prices so much higher on Amazon? I was told by the OP that I should look for them around $120 or $130, but most of the ones I'm seeing there are at least $150.

I'm trying to find something comparable to this, but I strongly prefer Amazon when getting my parts.

 

[mkenyon]

So guys, I'm a COMPLETELY new to building.

I'm thinking of building a ~$700-800 computer.

So far I have ASUS 23.6" VS247H-S $120 monitor
from black friday.

I'm thinking about getting an Antec 300, should I buy the newer or the older?
also looking at Microcenter's 3570K + mobo combos.

All I have in mind so far, lol.

Follow the OP. Antec 300 is not a good choice.

Why are motherboard prices so much higher on Amazon? I was told by the OP that I should look for them around $120 or $130, but most of the ones I'm seeing there are at least $150.

I'm trying to find something comparable to this, but I strongly prefer Amazon when getting my parts.

In my experience, Amazon prices are almost always higher on PC parts.

 

[GK86]

My question got lost in the shuffle. What would you guys recommend for a wireless kb/m, that will be used for pc couch gaming? Thanks.

 

[Akkad]

Why are motherboard prices so much higher on Amazon? I was told by the OP that I should look for them around $120 or $130, but most of the ones I'm seeing there are at least $150.

I'm trying to find something comparable to this, but I strongly prefer Amazon when getting my parts.

This one is recommended in the OP and it's pretty good price at Amazon.

 

[mkenyon]

My question got lost in the shuffle. What would you guys recommend for a wireless kb/m, that will be used for pc couch gaming? Thanks.

G700 and the K750.

This one is recommended in the OP and it's pretty good price at Amazon.

Good find. Not quite as nice as the Extreme 4, but will definitely get the job done.

 

[Rand0m TAG]

can someone help me? I got a strange problem. my pc boots up but the screen goes black when windows loads. a fix I discovered is by removing my dvi cable from my video card and connecting an hdmi cable from my motherboard to my monitor.

do you think its a video card problem or cable problem?

 

[mkenyon]

Test the inverse to see.

 

[Rand0m TAG]

Test the inverse to see.

cant do. my tower is built in a strange way where I cant plug in my hdmi cable into my videocard. will probably buy a new cable tmrw but was curious if anyone has any knowledge as to what happened.

 

[sorijealut]

Follow the OP. Antec 300 is not a good choice.

*whimper*

bu-but... the reviews! the friend who said it has nice airflow!

(so is the CM HAF912 da best top dog choice?)

 

[RedSwirl]

Okay this is what I have so far which should, for the most part, be my final system save Windows which I might be able to get elsewhere. I've never built a PC before so I don't really know how good this price is. I'll probably take a look at a comparable system at Dell.com or something just to see the difference.

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/RedSwirl/saved/#savedbuild_201863

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core
Mobo: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155
RAM: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" SSD
GPU: Asus Radeon HD 7850 2GB
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (White) ATX Mid Tower
PSU: Antec 550W ATX12V
Optical Drive: Sony DDU1681S-0B DVD/CD Drive
Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Quick Fire Pro
Mouse: Logitech SBF-96 Wired Optical
And a couple of USB extension cords.

I'm not buying a monitor because I intend for this to be an HTPC.

Combined Estimate Price: $985.86

Would this be a good base system for the next four years of gaming (assuming I upgrade the GPU sometime down the line)?

Below is my current system. It's a pre-built Dell:
CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4GHz
RAM: 3GB DDR2 (I think)
GPU: HD 6850 1GB
OS: Windows Vista Home Premium 32bit

How much of an upgrade would my proposed new system be in terms of overall performance?

 

[Hazaro]

Okay this is what I have so far which should, for the most part, be my final system save Windows which I might be able to get elsewhere. I've never built a PC before so I don't really know how good this price is. I'll probably take a look at a comparable system at Dell.com or something just to see the difference.

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/RedSwirl/saved/#savedbuild_201863

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core
Mobo: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155
RAM: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
GPU: Asus Radeon HD 7850 2GB
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (White) ATX Mid Tower
PSU: Antec 550W ATX12V
Optical Drive: Sony DDU1681S-0B DVD/CD Drive
Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Quick Fire Pro
Mouse: Logitech SBF-96 Wired Optical
And a couple of USB extension cords.

I'm not buying a monitor because I intend for this to be an HTPC.

Combined Estimate Price: $985.86

Would this be a good base system for the next four years of gaming (assuming I upgrade the GPU sometime down the line)?

Below is my current system. It's a pre-built Dell:
CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4GHz
RAM: 3GB DDR2 (I think)
GPU: HD 6850 1GB
OS: Windows Vista Home Premium 32bit

How much of an upgrade would my proposed new system be in terms of overall performance?

Absolutely a good base.
Might as well nab a real gaming mouse: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TEPB74/?tag=neogaf0e-20

A damn good upgrade. Enjoy your 1080p 60fps

 

[mkenyon]

*whimper*

bu-but... the reviews! the friend who said it has nice airflow!

(so is the CM HAF912 da best top dog choice?)

For what price range?

 

[sorijealut]

Absolutely a good base.
Might as well nab a real gaming mouse: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TEPB74/?tag=neogaf0e-20

A damn good upgrade. Enjoy your 1080p 60fps

Omg! I love this mouse and I'm using that mouse at this exact moment!
Never knew it was Hazaro-approved. Nice! btw the mouse is excellent, lets you click super fast and has rubber sidegrips.

Spoiler

I'm actually the writer of the top review you see on Amazon...

For what price range?

Hopefully 50-80 Also looking for a noob-friendly, safe choice

 

[GK86]

G700 and the K750.

Thank you! I will look into those.

Edit- The K800 is better I'm assuming? It's only a $1 more on Amazon right now.

 

[Hazaro]

Omg! I love this mouse and I'm using that mouse at this exact moment!
Never knew it was Hazaro-approved. Nice! btw the mouse is excellent, lets you click super fast and has rubber sidegrips.

mkenyon was on about it first.

I got to try one of them and it seemed fine. I talked to the CM Gaming rep and he gave me a bit more info.

Basically it's all you need in a solid gaming mouse at a very low price. Solid buttons. Solid sensor. Nice grip if it fits well with you. And it's stupidly low priced.

 

[harrytang]

No reason, unless you have a Z77 board and need PCI-E 3.0 for multiple high end cards at large format resolutions (1440p or multi-monitor).

Well I have a z77 pro and 120hz monitor with a 680. Feel like I should have done 3770 with the pci e. hmmmmm. I'll wait till I see the price. Thanks for response.

Don't know if I should have but picked up the "Creative Sound Blaster Recon3D THX PCIE Fatal1ty Pro Sound Card" already from flash sale. Pretty much half off. Reviews on amazon are all over the board. Hope it sounds better than my on board.

 

[Shambles]

This is complete bullshit and you know it. You can always create a local account and are not forced to use a Microsoft account.

Sorry bro but it's the truth. If by 'being able to make a local account' means you have to figure out that disabling your internet allows you to make a local account than that's pure bullshit. It's what happens when you try to do a clean upgrade installation, it also was the case with a friends windows 8 laptop OEM setup. When I say this I say this ignoring anything to do with Metro, this is with the system on it's own... Fuck Windows 8.

 

[RedSwirl]

Absolutely a good base.
Might as well nab a real gaming mouse: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TEPB74/?tag=neogaf0e-20

A damn good upgrade. Enjoy your 1080p 60fps

Trying to see what a comparable system at Dell.com would cost me and I actually can't find one. I remember having a lot more customization options when I ordered my current system five years ago. On most of these I can't even really choose the GPU anymore outside of a GT640 1GB, and they're making Windows 8 pretty much my only option. The only way I can even begin to approach what I've set up above is to look at the $1500 Dell systems or the high-end Alienware.

Well, that said, I did end up paying something like $2,000 for my current rig.

 

[Irobot82]

Anyone know of a software like the steam mover tool that can be used on other files? I want to move my Diablo 3 off my SSD and onto my HDD.

 

[atomic moth]

Checked the OP but still not sure what i should use to pick up wireless Internet in the house. Most of the adapters on amazon take up a USB slot but are cheap (~$10).

 

[MrCunningham]

I'm sorry I didn't make this more clear, there is an OC guide from the OP for 1155 processors.

http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html

Here's what I would do, increase to 4.0 GHz. Run Prime 95 Small FFT for 10 minutes. If it does not crash, you're good to go. If it does, increase by .01 (or closest number to .01), run P95 Small FFT again and repeat that process until stable. It should be stable without adjusting voltage though. Make sure you have hardware monitor running to monitor temps during the process. Keep away from high 70s.

Links to programs here: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=33171163&postcount=5

If you want to stick an aftermarket heatsink on there, then you could start at 4.5/1.38V and work your way back/forward.

OK thanks, the information in that tutorial thread and here both clears up a lot of things. I'm still reading up on the tutorial, so I am not going to try overclocking just yet, but if something goes wrong when I do attempt it, I will contact you with the gmail address you provided for me.

I don't want to push things too high on the stock intel cooler. I will try clocking my CPU to 3.8 to see how the temps look. But if things go well enough I may have to invest in an aftermarket cooler.

 

[NervousXtian]

Are people saying to get a 3570k over the 3770k, even if the 3770k is just a few bucks more on sale?

 

[Felix Lighter]

Does anyone know how the CM Storm Xornet compares to the Logitech G9x sizewise?

I can never find a perfect mouse. The G9x is nice but I dislike the middle mouse button and I wish it was a little narrower. The MX518 wasn't quite right either. I have a wireless mouse that I use in my living room (Logitech Wireless Anywhere Mouse MX) that I like the size of but it doesn't have a proper middle mouse button, is wireless and lacks features.

 

[Jzero]

Sorry bro but it's the truth. If by 'being able to make a local account' means you have to figure out that disabling your internet allows you to make a local account than that's pure bullshit. It's what happens when you try to do a clean upgrade installation, it also was the case with a friends windows 8 laptop OEM setup. When I say this I say this ignoring anything to do with Metro, this is with the system on it's own... Fuck Windows 8.

I think you just didn't take the time to read everything. You can say Windows 8 is shit all you want but your previous statement regarding accounts is invalid.

 

[Ceebs]

side note: Since I am all out of working video cards now I am using the integrated GPU.

Problem is my Crossover will not display a signal despite windows making the new monitor attached chime.

Could it be the cable?

 

[Lunar15]

Hey can anyone give some more good headset opinions? I tried the Plantronics one listed in the OP, but they were horrible. Constant squeaking noise, and my teammates kept saying they could hear themselves through them.

 

[sorijealut]

Does anyone know how the CM Storm Xornet compares to the Logitech G9x sizewise?

I can never find a perfect mouse. The G9x is nice but I dislike the middle mouse button and I wish it was a little narrower. The MX518 wasn't quite right either. I have a wireless mouse that I use in my living room (Logitech Wireless Anywhere Mouse MX) that I like the size of but it doesn't have a proper middle mouse button, is wireless and lacks features.

I definitely share your feelings, as well.

My roommate has the G9x and I have the Xornet, and it's shorter and flatter than G9x. (iirc)
Also, you can't ignore the ring finger holder groove - it's very much a make or break deal depending on what you prefer.

Me personally, I wish the ring finger had more freedom.
But you do kind of forget about it once you start playing and get used to it. comparison picture I found online