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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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mkenyon

Banned
So I suppose HIS 7970 IceQ X2 is where all the craze is at, or am I overhyped by the reviews? It's available at newegg for $360, which is the least expensive I've ever seen it being.

I'm planning to go all out in a month or so. Thinking of it as a personal Christmas gift. Any recommendations? (For the fun of it, expect that money is no object!)
It actually runs a bit loud. I haven't looked at prices, but I'd prefer the RoG Matrix 7970, or the DCII 7970 if there aren't plans of extreme overclocking.
 

Ledsen

Member
I've been trying to overclock my GPU... it's a Twin Frozr II 1024 MB GTX560Ti.
I have no experience overclocking GPUs. Could anyone give me some tips?

Stock is 1.00v, 880/1100. I tried going up to 950/1200, but it crashed. I upped the voltage to 1.05 with clocks @950/1200, and it seemed to work fine. Haven't done stability testing yet though so I'm still running everything @ stock speeds when gaming. Where do I go from here? Should I not have upped the voltage that much? I don't really know what my next step should be and how I go about it to get max stable clocks. Is the prestanda boost even worth it?

Anyone? No one OC:d their GPU?
 
I have installed my new PC today.

In Chrome, it seems like HTML5 videos crash after one second. It doesn't stop the page or the browser from working, just the video. It seems to happen on any website with HTML5 video. The videos do work in Internet Explorer 10. I haven't tried any other browsers. I've searched Google and haven't found anyone with this specific issue. I have uninstalled and reinstalled Chrome.

Can someone suggest something I can do to fix this? Is there another thread which may be better to post this in?

Thanks!
 

mkenyon

Banned
Anyone? No one OC:d their GPU?
Every single one is different. Whereas with Intel CPUs, the differences are in minor voltage tweaks across the 4.0GHz spectrum, and then extreme rare cases being able to hit above 5.0 with air/water. You could have two 560Tis, and one could go to +500MHz, one can't OC at all. It's a lot more dependent upon silicon lottery.

Since the differences are so vast, there aren't really any guides per se, you just need to work through it. In general, this is how I do it.

1) Increase core clock until unstable.
2) Increase voltage until stable
3a) If just benching, not trying to get a 24/7 clock, continue Steps 1 and 2 until you can't go any higher.
3b) For 24/7 clocks, Repeat step 1 and 2 until temps/noise are not enjoyable.
4) Increase memory clock until unstable.
5) Once unstable again, scale back until it is stable.

I use a single run on 3DMark11 to determine these steps. Once complete, I run Uniengine Heaven on loop for a few hours to check for rock solid stability.
 

teiresias

Member
Does anyone have an opinion on the ASUS Sabertooth Z77 mobo? I like the way it looks, but am being tempted by the MSI Z77 MPower as well.

Of course, this is assuming I give in to my want to upgrade my i7-870 to Ivy.
 

Xdrive05

Member
Woohoo! Got my ASUS GTX 660 TI OC today and it works great. At 1050p, huge upgrade from even my 560 TI.

Assissins Creed 3 promo code let me checkout with the game in Uplay, but the game does not exist with my account and now the promo code is spent. Hopefully just a temporary snafu.
 

DagsJT

Member
Can anyone recommend some good 4-pin case fans? I've just built my new PC but the two 3-pin case fans are running at 1200rpm and it's annoying me already. I believe I can replace them with 4 pin fans and I could adjust the speed then?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Should Canadians wait till Boxing Day if they are planning on buying a new computer?
Get your list of parts you want to buy, and buy them as they come on sale. Typical holiday discounts are similar or worse to typical weekly/monthly discounts, and there's no way of knowing whether the part you want in specific will be on sale. Third Black Friday/Cyber Monday in a row where I've set aside more than $1K for who knows what, and I've yet to see anything heavily discounted similar to sales that have already existed.

NCIX runs weekly sales that are almost always awesome though.
Does anyone have an opinion on the ASUS Sabertooth Z77 mobo? I like the way it looks, but am being tempted by the MSI Z77 MPower as well.

Of course, this is assuming I give in to my want to upgrade my i7-870 to Ivy.
It's good, much better than the MPower. MSI Z77 boards aren't great in comparison. In that price range, the ASRock OC Formula, Gigabyte G1.Sniper 3, and Gigabyte UP5-TH are the boards to beat. That's only if you want to push the boundaries of an OC though.

But, 870->Ivy isn't anything to write home about. Clock per clock, it'd be about a 5-8% increase in performance. So if you can get that 870 to 4.0-4.2, there is zero reason really.
 

KungFucius

King Snowflake
Trying to decide if a complete upgrade is better suited, or just a video card. I have a 1920x1200 display, and I want to play Far Cry 3 decently, and plan on playing Bioshock in February.

This is what I have right now (built in Feb 2010)

i7-920@4.0Ghz
XFX AMD 5850 1GB GPU
6GB DDR3
Gigabyte GA-X58A-UDR3
Corsair 650W-TX PSU
Samsung Spinpoint S3 500GB system drive

Am I better off just waiting until next year to replace everything, what with the new Intel processors and AMD 8xxx GPUs coming out in Q1, upgrade everything now, or just go with a video card upgrade? I don't plan on going with a anything higher than the resolution I have now, so not even sure what card is best suited anyway.

Any help and advice would be most appreciated.

I actually upgraded from a nearly identical unit. I notice a slight change in "snappiness" but it's really not worth it. I was having an audio glitch that just drove me nuts so I freaked out and "upgraded" to an i5 rig with the same GPU.

My rig was also a year older than yours and had the rev1 version of the Motherboard. I moved from a radeon 4870 to a 6970 and also upgraded to SSD storage for the OS. I use it as an HTPC/ Console replacement so having random pops in the audio was annoying. This disappeared in the new build so luckily it was just some weird GPU/Mobo issue probably due to having a rev1 board on a completely new socket type. Your best upgrade path is SSD and new GPU and wait.

The new rig does boot faster and will certainly last for a GPU upgrade or 2, it just might not be as good at crunching numbers and multitasking. If you look at Intel's leaked desktop CPU roadmap you will see that they are not planning anything new for about a year. They will launch mobile first and may ignore the desktop for several quarters. Even now there are more Sandy Bridge desktop units being sold than IB and IB is about 1 year old. There is no reason to wait and also no reason to upgrade.
 

mkenyon

Banned
There is no reason to wait and also no reason to upgrade.
Unless power savings is a big deal to you, I have a feeling this sentiment is going to become pretty standard in the next few years.

The only thing I forsee forcing Nehalem/Lynnfield people to finally upgrade is the eventual PCI-E 2.0 bottleneck, which I think will be happening on single cards next gen.
 

Mikeside

Member
Anyone interested in a 512GB Samsung SSD? I have a spare which I'm not going to use and I'm trying to sell it for about £320.

Model number: MZ7PC512HAGH

It's a Dell part (the company I work for is a Dell partner so I got a good deal on it), but it's just a Samsung 830 512GB SSD rebranded.

Unused in a sealed static bag.
 

winstano

Member
I'm thinking about joining the PC master race going all-in with a (first ever!) rig, but I really fancy going down the small form factor route with it all. I'm seriously eyeing up the Cooler Master elite 120 case, with a Z77 chipset board, sandy bridge i7 (legacy) and throwing a GTX 680 in there too.

Anyone any thoughts/persuasions/tips on going down sff for gaming?

Edit: will be mostly playing through a 1080p tv, and possibly doubling up as an htpc as well (hence wanting to keep it in small form factor. I did consider an x51, but its just ever so slightly out of reach for the spec I want)
 

mkenyon

Banned
There is a small form factor guide in the OP. I'd advise against that case with higher end hardware. It just can't keep up with the cooling.
Can someone help me with my build? Any suggetions are welcome. I am a little iffy on the power supply, motherboard, and monitor. Also Windows 7 or 8?
http://pcpartpicker.com/ca/p/r6kp
This seasonic PSU is on sale right now, saves you $25. With that, I'd add an extra fan or two. I think that Shinobi only comes with a single fan. Grab two Spectre Pro 120s. Put another one in the front, and then one in the rear or top.

Otherwise, looks good.
 
Winstano, edit that quick, the term you are using is a banned phrase.

There is a small form factor guide in the OP. I'd advise against that case with higher end hardware. It just can't keep up with the cooling.

This seasonic PSU is on sale right now, saves you $25. With that, I'd add an extra fan or two. I think that Shinobi only comes with a single fan. Grab two Spectre Pro 120s. Put another one in the front, and then one in the rear or top.

Otherwise, looks good.
550w is good enough?
 

ghibli99

Member
Been away from this thread for a while. Haven't done much of anything for the past month and a half. Just enjoying gaming... although there is a part of me that misses the overclocking journey.

Upgrading our router to an Asus N56U this week, and over the holidays, I'll likely replace some of my way noisy case fans. Other than that, it's been smooth sailing... except NFS:MW, which is a choppy mess on my rig.
 
Posted a few days ago and a couple of people tried to help me with my issue (thanks!) which I have yet to resolve, but I didn't really have a whole lot of time to spend trying to figure it out so I just waited until a little later.

I'm getting startup errors on bootups (such as CHDSK, disk read error occurred, Windows did not start properly, and so on) and occasional lockups on the windows starting screen. Occasionally, I actually make it to the desktop, jump on Steam, and it completely locks up 30 minutes or so after. Is this is a HDD issue or is it something else?

I also had two blue screens initially: C00021a (that's when the problems started and I just got a third BSOD seconds ago) What's the deal? Is it a HDD and something else? Memory maybe?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Posted a few days ago and a couple of people tried to help me with my issue (thanks!) which I have yet to resolve, but I didn't really have a whole lot of time to spend trying to figure it out so I just waited until a little later.

I'm getting startup errors on bootups (such as CHDSK, disk read error occurred, Windows did not start properly, and so on) and occasional lockups on the windows starting screen. Occasionally, I actually make it to the desktop, jump on Steam, and it completely locks up 30 minutes or so after. Is this is a HDD issue or is it something else?

I also had two blue screens initially: C00021a (that's when the problems started and I just got a third BSOD seconds ago) What's the deal? Is it a HDD and something else? Memory maybe?
You can burn a copy of memtest 86+ 4.20 for free and use it to test your memory, but it sounds like a dying HDD. Get your data off of it ASAP.
 
You can burn a copy of memtest 86+ 4.20 for free and use it to test your memory, but it sounds like a dying HDD. Get your data off of it ASAP.

Thanks for the quick response. Now my question is whether or not to get an SSD or just get a an HDD to replace the old one.
 

t-ramp

Member
Can anyone recommend some good 4-pin case fans? I've just built my new PC but the two 3-pin case fans are running at 1200rpm and it's annoying me already. I believe I can replace them with 4 pin fans and I could adjust the speed then?
The speed of both 3- and 4-pin fans can be adjusted. 3-pin fans are regulated using voltage control, while 4-pin fans support PWM, a different technology. However, if your motherboard only supports PWM-based adjustment, then I guess that's that. I don't have any particular recommendations on specific fans.
 

Haly

One day I realized that sadness is just another word for not enough coffee.
I'm installing a 3570 right now and it feels like there is a LOT of resistance coming from the retention lever. Is this normal or is something wrong? My motherboard.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Can anyone recommend some good 4-pin case fans? I've just built my new PC but the two 3-pin case fans are running at 1200rpm and it's annoying me already. I believe I can replace them with 4 pin fans and I could adjust the speed then?
How much are you looking to spend? Noctua and Noiseblocker eloops are the best, but the Arctic F12 PWM is great on a budget.

Whenever you see PWM in a fan description, that means 4 pin. PWM = pulse width modulation (I think), and it controls speed by telling a fan to turn on and off repeatedly to reach the exact RPM.
 

t-ramp

Member
How much are you looking to spend? Noctua and Noiseblocker eloops are the best, but the Arctic F12 PWM is great on a budget.
I've used a couple of Arctic's F9s and have been impressed, aside from the woefully thin cables. Not sure if this is a trait of the whole line or if they've refreshed their fans since a year or two ago. Otherwise, they produced great airflow and were quiet.
 
Ok, how about this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Biostar H61MGC Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: XFX Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Rosewill FBM-02 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply ($31.64 @ NCIX US)
Total: $546.58
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-12-05 21:27 EST-0500)

Two questions though:
1. Will a micro-atx mini tower work with this build (read: video card)? I went with it because it was a combo discount.
2. There is a compatibility warning due to MB/Chip because: "Some Intel H61 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Ivy Bridge CPUs." Should I be concerned?
 
Hey PC GAF, I posted here yesterday regarding my first ever PC rig. Here was my final build for reference:
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Biostar TZ77XE3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: SAPPHIRE 100352-2L Radeon HD 7950 3GB
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer
Monitor: Asus VH236H 23.0" Monitor
Keyboard: Logitech K800 Wireless Slim Keyboard
Thanks again for the help!

But yeah, I'm posting here again because a friend of mine offered to lend me their power supply in the hopes that it would save me some money:

http://min.us/l6rH8VdDn5AhQ

Thing is, I have no idea if that's sufficient or good enough for my projected rig. I mean, 600W sounds great, and I have no doubt that'll do what its meant to do and power the computer, but I honestly have never heard of Thermaltake. Are their power supplies generally reliable?
 

Niks

Member
5850 -> 7950 is a pretty huge jump. Agree with Kharma on the other stuff though.

*edit* Also, the AMD 8xxx series has been delayed to Q2.

Goddammit, I am in the exact same situation, I have a 5850 and was waiting for the 8xxx series to come out.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Hey PC GAF, I posted here yesterday regarding my first ever PC rig. Here was my final build for reference:

Thanks again for the help!

But yeah, I'm posting here again because a friend of mine offered to lend me their power supply in the hopes that it would save me some money:

http://min.us/l6rH8VdDn5AhQ

Thing is, I have no idea if that's sufficient or good enough for my projected rig. I mean, 600W sounds great, and I have no doubt that'll do what its meant to do and power the computer, but I honestly have never heard of Thermaltake. Are their power supplies generally reliable?
Should be fine. Not the best quality, but if he's been using it for awhile then chances are good it's not going to blow up.
Ok, how about this:


Two questions though:
1. Will a micro-atx mini tower work with this build (read: video card)? I went with it because it was a combo discount.
2. There is a compatibility warning due to MB/Chip because: "Some Intel H61 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Ivy Bridge CPUs." Should I be concerned?
1) Yes, that case has a ton of room for large video cards. Take a look at the picture with the door off.
2) Yeah, go with an H77.
 
Bah, I decided to go back through and just start from scratch and I ended up with:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($41.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($194.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Xigmatek ASGARD PRO (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $630.93
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-12-05 22:38 EST-0500)

Any obvious flaws in the build? I really want to stay closer to $500, but I am worried I'd have to give up too much.
 
Either of the i3's that are clocked higher (3.3 and 3.4) will give you better gaming performance than that i5.

Awesome! Thanks. =D That could save a few bucks easily.

Ok, updated it a bit:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i3-3220 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($41.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($194.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Rosewill FBM-02 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $550.93
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-12-05 23:25 EST-0500)

Note that I put that mini tower in. Is there any way to validate sizes on these things? Or should I just relax and trust that it will fit?
 

Haly

One day I realized that sadness is just another word for not enough coffee.
I installed a 2500k last week and I really had to apply force to it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nki1LSSGFXQ

This was the video that gave me the courage to press down harder. Skip to :40
Thanks, I had already locked it but this soothes my insecurities.

Cabling this Temjin TJ08B-E is the biggest pain in the butt ever. Should've went with the Fractal Arc Mini.
 

DTKT

Member
Any safety tips for a first time overclocker?

It looks like my trusty i5-750 is bottle-necking my 670 in Saints Row and Far Cry and probably a few other games. I have an Hyper 212+ and temps never go above 45C so I should be okay with a 3.8-4.0 OC.

I'm following this guide. It's using my board (I have the P55a-UD4p) and an i5-750 as reference.

Specifically, these settings:

3.8GHz:
Load-Line Calibration: Disabled
Vcore= 1.264V (CPU-Z idle)
QPI/Vtt/IMC= 1.149V
PCH= 1.10V
PLL= 1.85V
RAM= Specified voltage for your RAM

4.0GHz:
Load-Line Calibration: Disabled
Vcore= 1.38V (CPU-Z idle)
QPI/Vtt/IMC= 1.25V <- Higher than absolute maximum Vtt
PCH= 1.10V
PLL= 1.88V
RAM= Specified voltage for your RAM
 

Mordeccai

Member
So I finally get my case tomorrow and have a question about where to build my PC.

My whole apartment is carpeted save for my bathroom which is tiled and a concrete patio. Would it be safest to build in one of those areas? From what I've read, I should be fine as long as I keep a hand on the case to keep myself grounded but it would suck to fry any of my components.

Also, my ram sticks came today and one of them cut through the bottom of the plastic packaging. When I opened the box the bottom 1/4th was exposed, really hoping it works when I install it tomorrow. Would you guys RMA it to amazon or take your chances opening the packaging?
 

NervousXtian

Thought Emoji Movie was good. Take that as you will.
Well, got this thing together with my brothers help.

Ended up grabbing a Dell S2340M from Best Buy as it was pretty much the same price as online.

Pics up later, I'm exhausted.
 

Unity2012

Member
I would like to receive some advice from PC experts, experienced or avid fans of the hardware.

This year i finally bought a new desktop after 5 yrs using the same rig. The new one works great but I really want to upgrade the GT 530 that came with it. I am looking for a decent upgrade that keeps my wallet home for Christmas, LOL; and I can play games at least at high settings.

I am open to your suggestions. My gratitude beforehand.

The PC is an HP Pavilion HPE
Model H8-1260t
Processor: Intel (R) Core (TM) i7 -2600 CPU @ 3.40 GHz
RAM 8GB
System 64bit
Windows 7
 

MrBig

Member
Going to be doing a move soon, cross country via ground. What should I do to prep my PC?
Take off the heatsink and GPU, anything that's hanging, I assume. I have all of the boxes from the build about ~6 months ago.
 

Momentary

Banned
I'm not very computer savvy... So what's the benefits of overclocking RAM and is there a gain from putting a water-cooling block on your chipset to cool down the MOSFET and southbridge other than just for high numbers on a benchmark.

Decided that I'm going to go ahead and do a major enthusiast build using Tri-SLI since I got the thumbs up finally from my significant other. I'm about to make my first purchase towards my project from CaseLabs. I'm just waiting on a response to my e-mail about their STH10 tower being able to utilize EATX form factor on top of their stated XL ATX form factor. I just want to make sure I have options. If anyone on here knows the answer to this I'd appreciate it if you'd share your knowledge on the matter.

Been visiting a lot of forums lately and some have said since it's so close to wait for Haswell and GTX700 and others have said since Maxwell is not that far away to wait for that. If it wasn't for the fact that people are hyping the shit out of Maxwell I would just go ahead and attack this project once the new CPUs and GPUs hit next year.

I'm looking at spending close to $6000 now since I cancelled my plans to do a build from this summer and decided to keep saving up since I got sent off on deployment. I just think maybe since I don't have a high income that I should just wait for Maxwell since it's supposedly a ridiculous leap from Kepler and I want to get the biggest bang for my buck.

I'm also hoping that Tri-SLI scales better than what it does now. I know that the only boost it offers is in benchmarking, but hopefully that won't be the case with future hardware releases and having software that takes advantage of that.

I'm just rambling on now. I know people say screw waiting, but I want to see if waiting now would be the logical thing to do with so much money on the line.
 

Ledsen

Member
Every single one is different. Whereas with Intel CPUs, the differences are in minor voltage tweaks across the 4.0GHz spectrum, and then extreme rare cases being able to hit above 5.0 with air/water. You could have two 560Tis, and one could go to +500MHz, one can't OC at all. It's a lot more dependent upon silicon lottery.

Since the differences are so vast, there aren't really any guides per se, you just need to work through it. In general, this is how I do it.

1) Increase core clock until unstable.
2) Increase voltage until stable
3a) If just benching, not trying to get a 24/7 clock, continue Steps 1 and 2 until you can't go any higher.
3b) For 24/7 clocks, Repeat step 1 and 2 until temps/noise are not enjoyable.
4) Increase memory clock until unstable.
5) Once unstable again, scale back until it is stable.

I use a single run on 3DMark11 to determine these steps. Once complete, I run Uniengine Heaven on loop for a few hours to check for rock solid stability.

Thanks, that helps a lot!
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I'm not very computer savvy... So what's the benefits of overclocking RAM and is there a gain from putting a water-cooling block on your chipset to cool down the MOSFET and southbridge other than just for high numbers on a benchmark.

Decided that I'm going to go ahead and do a major enthusiast build using Tri-SLI since I got the thumbs up finally from my significant other. I'm about to make my first purchase towards my project from CaseLabs. I'm just waiting on a response to my e-mail about their STH10 tower being able to utilize EATX form factor on top of their stated XL ATX form factor. I just want to make sure I have options. If anyone on here knows the answer to this I'd appreciate it if you'd share your knowledge on the matter.

Been visiting a lot of forums lately and some have said since it's so close to wait for Haswell and GTX700 and others have said since Maxwell is not that far away to wait for that. If it wasn't for the fact that people are hyping the shit out of Maxwell I would just go ahead and attack this project once the new CPUs and GPUs hit next year.

I'm looking at spending close to $6000 now since I cancelled my plans to do a build from this summer and decided to keep saving up since I got sent off on deployment. I just think maybe since I don't have a high income that I should just wait for Maxwell since it's supposedly a ridiculous leap from Kepler and I want to get the biggest bang for my buck.

I'm also hoping that Tri-SLI scales better than what it does now. I know that the only boost it offers is in benchmarking, but hopefully that won't be the case with future hardware releases and having software that takes advantage of that.

I'm just rambling on now. I know people say screw waiting, but I want to see if waiting now would be the logical thing to do with so much money on the line.
Oc'ing RAM and putting a water block on your stuff has low practical use imo, but others can chime in.

I would wait for Haswell and the new GPU lines for sure if you are dropping that much money down.

You can get your SSD and monitor stuff sorted out now and use them in the mean time.
 
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