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[BronsonLee]

Do it. You have a lot more room for future upgrades on the new one.

Definitely true; the case is bigger too, has more case fans, and probably front audio that isn't broken (for some reason the front audio ports on my case aren't HD Audio). The specs on the other one, especially hd wise, blow mine away.

It's just the sentimental thing, really (beyond the pain of having to set stuff up again). I was waffling for ages on whether to build my own, bought the parts for myself for Christmas, and did it Christmas Eve. A lot of the parts came from friends who had spares too. Then the bag containing the PC was lost on my way home, and I only got it back a week ago. It's been on a trip!

But definitely worth the upgrade? How would it be gaming wise? I can play Hitman and Far Cry on medium-high at 1080p, but it does eventually conk out/bsod on me if I try to do a marathon session. Would there be a noticeable improvement?

Edit: The fact that I have no idea what I would do with the one I built also complicates it. It's custom, so hard to sell, and I wouldn't really need the parts...

 

[DJ_Lae]

Just wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions and help the past week or so. All my parts are ordered, now I get the painful process of waiting for them so I can put it together.

I also ordered an anti-static wrist strap. I've never needed one before, but I've also never worked on a PC in a place as dry as Edmonton before either: I fart in the winter and I generate a static charge. I realize I could just touch my case periodically but I figure for a couple of bucks it's worth peace of mind (if little else).

I nabbed the $40 upgrade version of Windows 8, too, and will do a clean install on the SSD I'm taking out of my current computer.

 

[Zeliard]

Looking for a relatively cheap (~$150) but solid pair of 2.1 speakers. Anyone have any recommendations? Room size for where those will go is relatively small.

I've had my eye on these but the lack of sub is what's keeping me from jumping on it. Still, 2.0 could be fine - are the Creative T40s solid?

 

[mkenyon]

Edit: The fact that I have no idea what I would do with the one I built also complicates it. It's custom, so hard to sell, and I wouldn't really need the parts...

I'd most definitely buy the Proc and RAM off of you, and possibly the case/PSU. I thought you were trading yours for the new one.

Are you just straight up buying the new one? If so, how much is the asking price?

 

[BronsonLee]

I'd most definitely buy the Proc and RAM off of you, and possibly the case/PSU. I thought you were trading yours for the new one.

Are you just straight up buying the new one? If so, how much is the asking price?

Nope, I'm trading other stuff for it. Without getting into it, it's a very good deal.

The case/psu is that XION XON one that was 30 bucks after rebate at Newegg. It's shockingly decent, but the case on the other is much better. I like the front on mine better though.

If you want it after I get the new one, let me know and we can try and work something out. Beyond the overheating for marathon gaming, I love the setup. Nothing is out of reach with the thing.

 

[tafer]

I nabbed the $40 upgrade version of Windows 8, too, and will do a clean install on the SSD I'm taking out of my current computer.

I had problems with that. The update version requires to be installed on a machine with a previews installation of windows. And for some extremely fuck up reason, it will let you install and do everything fine until it decides to let you know that your copy isn't activated and your code doesn't work because you clean installed.

Naturally, there are ways to work around this issue, but the "legality" of said methods is questionable.

Personally, Windows 8 activation process for certain machines is the single biggest issue why I hate it and don't recommend it.

 

[mkenyon]

I have a waterblock, FM2 itx board, and a radiator waiting to make a silent HTPC capable of playing games at a decent rate.

The only deals I've seen on the A series CPUs have been on the A8, where I want the A10.

 

[BronsonLee]

I have a waterblock, FM2 itx board, and a radiator waiting to make a silent HTPC capable of playing games at a decent rate.

The only deals I've seen on the A series CPUs have been on the A8, where I want the A10.

Then yeah, A10's your bet. The research I did told me faster RAM the better, so I got 2133 RAM and a MB that could handle it. The only deals I saw on the A10 were either a combo deal or like 10 bucks off.

 

[Ty4on]

Then yeah, A10's your bet. The research I did told me faster RAM the better, so I got 2133 RAM and a MB that could handle it. The only deals I saw on the A10 were either a combo deal or like 10 bucks off.

He could watercool the memory and maybe for once it wouldn't be useless

 

[BronsonLee]

He could watercool the memory and maybe for once it wouldn't be useless

? I don't follow... It's far for useless in my use case. I don't know what he wants to play though, so mileage may vary

 

[NoRéN]

NO!!! never do that!

have the box it came in? wood cutting board?

How come you can't do that?

 

[Anton668]

short answer, its only anti static on the inside

 

[iavi]

This may sound like the dumbest question ever, but: Does anyone with the Corsair 550D know if I can run the case with the front panel door closed? I've installed 2 AF120's in there as front-intake--performance editions, but the panel door blocking them when closed just doesn't make any sense. It looks a ton better, though.

The press-button cover I'm sure has to be taken off, leaving only the magnetic dust cover.

 

[NoRéN]

short answer, its only anti static on the inside

lol. Good to know. I swear I almost did that when I did my build.

 

[plasticpassion]

How feasible is it to use my liquid cooking system that's ~4 years old in a new build? I can't link the name of it right now as I'm at work, but it was definitely a decent one back then.

 

[garath]

This may sound like the dumbest question ever, but: Does anyone with the Corsair 550D know if I can run the case with the front panel door closed? I've installed 2 AF120's in there as front-intake--performance editions, but the panel door blocking them when closed just doesn't make any sense. It looks a ton better, though.

The press-button cover I'm sure has to be taken off, leaving only the magnetic dust cover.

Isn't there a vent on each side of the door that allows for airflow?

 

[Credo]

I need some help, PC GAF. I bought this Corsair SSD from Newegg and got it today. I opened my PC, plugged the SATA cable and power supply cable into it, and booted up the system.

For some reason, my system doesn't show the SSD in this window:

However, when I enter the Device Manager, it appears above my current HDD:

After that, I put my Windows 7 disc in the drive to see if it would give me an option to install to the SSD, but the only drive that appeared was my current 1 TB HDD.

I planned to do a clean install on the SSD, but I'm a bit worried now. I thought about removing my current HDD and starting the system with only my SSD and Windows 7 disc, but I don't know what will happen. Even if I were able to do a clean install onto my SSD from there, would there still be the issue of my product key existing on the HDD? I don't know how Microsoft monitors that.

Any helpful answers from you all will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[scogoth]

I need some help, PC GAF. I bought this Corsair SSD from Newegg and got it today. I opened my PC, plugged the SATA cable and power supply cable into it, and booted up the system.

For some reason, my system doesn't show the SSD in this window:

However, when I enter the Device Manager, it appears above my current HDD:

After that, I put my Windows 7 disc in the drive to see if it would give me an option to install to the SSD, but the only drive that appeared was my current 1 TB HDD.

I planned to do a clean install on the SSD, but I'm a bit worried now. I thought about removing my current HDD and starting the system with only my SSD and Windows 7 disc, but I don't know what will happen. Even if I were able to do a clean install onto my SSD from there, would there still be the issue of my product key existing on the HDD? I don't know how Microsoft monitors that.

Any helpful answers from you all will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

You have to initialize the drive in disk management. It's in the left side below device manager of the MMC window.

 

[Infinite Justice]

I need some help, PC GAF. I bought this Corsair SSD from Newegg and got it today. I opened my PC, plugged the SATA cable and power supply cable into it, and booted up the system.

For some reason, my system doesn't show the SSD in this window:

However, when I enter the Device Manager, it appears above my current HDD:

After that, I put my Windows 7 disc in the drive to see if it would give me an option to install to the SSD, but the only drive that appeared was my current 1 TB HDD.

I planned to do a clean install on the SSD, but I'm a bit worried now. I thought about removing my current HDD and starting the system with only my SSD and Windows 7 disc, but I don't know what will happen. Even if I were able to do a clean install onto my SSD from there, would there still be the issue of my product key existing on the HDD? I don't know how Microsoft monitors that.

Any helpful answers from you all will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Go to Disk Management (had to do it with my 1TB HDD and it also made win 8 annoying at first since i didn't know how to reach DM on that thing)

 

[Credo]

Thank you, scogoth and Infinite Justice! I found it and got it all set up. PC GAF saves me yet again!

 

[mkenyon]

How feasible is it to use my liquid cooking system that's ~4 years old in a new build? I can't link the name of it right now as I'm at work, but it was definitely a decent one back then.

H50 probably? Totally fine.

This may sound like the dumbest question ever, but: Does anyone with the Corsair 550D know if I can run the case with the front panel door closed? I've installed 2 AF120's in there as front-intake--performance editions, but the panel door blocking them when closed just doesn't make any sense. It looks a ton better, though.

The press-button cover I'm sure has to be taken off, leaving only the magnetic dust cover.

Yeah, it's designed to work with the door closed.

 

[kadab]

guys i have a question.want to buy a new videocard (nvidia)
have like 150 euros to spend what should i get? want the best bang for my bucks

sorry bump

 

[mkenyon]

sorry bump

A used 560Ti maybe? 570 maybe?

No Kepler card in that price range is really worth buying.

 

[kadab]

A used 560Ti maybe? 570 maybe?

No Kepler card in that price range is really worth buying.

was looking at a gtx 650ti oc
is there a big gap between a 560ti and a 650ti

 

[Couchaddict]

@Credo : Microsoft monitors mainly the motherboard.

 

[sorijealut]

IT IS DONE.

My build

I've decided to use blue rings on my af120s, as the motherboard was looking lonely
Runs quiet as a mouse, barely audible even with 12V to the exposed fans.

Back (cables)
Let me just say, I will appreciate modular technology a lot more now ;_; haha

YES! EVERYTHING SEEMS TO WORK
I can't believe it.
A big sigh of relief, and another HUGE thank you to PCGAF!

 

[opticalmace]

So I guess I'm part of comfy couch GAF now.

Any recommendations for a cheap wireless KB/mouse?

 

[Credo]

@Credo : Microsoft monitors mainly the motherboard.

Thanks, couchaddict. Now that my PC recognizes the SSD, I shouldn't have an issue. I have everything I need from my current installation on an external HDD, so I'll just wipe my internal HDD and do a clean install of Win 7 on the SSD. Then, there shouldn't be a problem with the product key.

By the way, since my PC is used to booting up on my HDD, is there some way to designate the SSD as my boot drive and my HDD as a secondary drive?

 

[kharma45]

was looking at a gtx 650ti oc
is there a big gap between a 560ti and a 650ti

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/680?vs=547

 

[kennah]

Haha. Not the gap you'd expect

 

[mkenyon]

IT IS DONE.


YES! EVERYTHING SEEMS TO WORK
I can't believe it.
A big sigh of relief, and another HUGE thank you to PCGAF!

Looks great man. Enjoy the silence.

 

[sorijealut]

Looks great man. Enjoy the silence.

Thanks heh heh. Fan layout inspiration from you!

Btw guys, so I've no Windows in the mail still,
and checknig the BIOs screen, I noticed my CHA_FAN3 (front bottom fan) kept blinking red and blue with low rpm. What is the matter?

Also, I exited out of that screen and it keeps telling me to choose a boot device or something . I kept pressing reset and power buttons to retry, which I can't imagine being good for my HDD.

Haven't watched any videos about BIOs OR Windows yet... better start now.

 

[Echoplx]

You can't do anything past BIOS without some form of bootable media (ie Windows disk or bootable USB) also, installing Windows is very straightforward, shouldn't have any troubles there

 

[LiquidMetal14]

mkenyon already gave me solid gold advice but now I'm actually contmeplating water cooling for the first time. I am looking at the 3930k based on earlier advice and ran into this CPU water solution.

So I'm understanding right, this water solution will beat any air solution? I want the best temps and am taking this particular build quite serious and to be honest, it looks really easy to set up.

I'm not looking to spend 100 on this solution so the Coolermaster I linked for 55 is right up my alley. This would be the first time I have ever used water cooling so I want to get it right.

 

[Smokey]

mkenyon already gave me solid gold advice but now I'm actually contmeplating water cooling for the first time. I am looking at the 3930k based on earlier advice and ran into this CPU water solution.

So I'm understanding right, this water solution will beat any air solution? I want the best temps and am taking this particular build quite serious and to be honest, it looks really easy to set up.

I'm not looking to spend 100 on this solution so the Coolermaster I linked for 55 is right up my alley. This would be the first time I have ever used water cooling so I want to get it right.

No

He was most likely talking about true water cooling. The units like the one you linked to aren't that much better than air coolers (worse than some actually). The benefit of using a closed water system like that is it takes up less space in your system and is more aesthetically pleasing IMO (compared to the air coolers out there).

 

[LiquidMetal14]

No

He was most likely talking about true water cooling. The units like the one you linked to aren't that much better than air coolers (worse than some actually). The benefit of using a closed water system like that is it takes up less space in your system and is more aesthetically pleasing IMO (compared to the air coolers out there).

I am thinking about using the Corsair Hydro H80. I'm actually going to lower my GPU cost a little and go with the ASUS gtx670 to offset this cost. And I do agree on your preference. I am tired of dealing with a huge heatsink and fan assembly. Reading the reviews has almost sold me on the H80.

 

[Smokey]

I am thinking about using the Corsair Hydro H80. I'm actually going to lower my GPU cost a little and go with the ASUS gtx670 to offset this cost. And I do agree on your preference. I am tired of dealing with a huge heatsink and fan assembly. Reading the reviews has almost sold me on the H80.

Read this article my friend

The H80i (the refreshed model) does better than the H100i and I think all but one other in the comparison above. Cost quite a bit though.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

Read this article my friend

The H80i (the refreshed model) does better than the H100i and I think all but one other in the comparison above. Cost quite a bit though.

I think I like my choice in the H80 after reading that. I can't break the bank and get the Kraken x60 as it's 140USD but it certainly looks and benches nice based on your link.

H80i seems to be to dollars more, may look into that.

 

[sorijealut]

No

He was most likely talking about true water cooling. The units like the one you linked to aren't that much better than air coolers (worse than some actually). The benefit of using a closed water system like that is it takes up less space in your system and is more aesthetically pleasing IMO (compared to the air coolers out there).

Ahh, I think I understand that closed-loop business now.

You can't do anything past BIOS without some form of bootable media (ie Windows disk or bootable USB) also, installing Windows is very straightforward, shouldn't have any troubles there

lol, um I'm so noob
alright, I'm so ready. I will try USB approach, since I have no disk drive.

 

[mkenyon]

H80i>>>>>>H80 because of the fans.

This guy is pretty close in performance with the H100 as well, and is a pretty penny less.

But yeah, when I meant watercooling, I mean full on watercooling. Like this kit.

 

[Smokey]

H80i>>>>>>H80 because of the fans.

This guy is pretty close in performance with the H100 as well, and is a pretty penny less.

dat heatsink

 

[Irobot82]

IT IS DONE.


YES! EVERYTHING SEEMS TO WORK
I can't believe it.
A big sigh of relief, and another HUGE thank you to PCGAF!

You know if you buy a sata externder and a sata molex converter you can get away with just one modular cable for your GPU and one for your SSD, HDD, DVD, Fan Controller. Having just those two connected to the PSU really cleans up the case.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

H80i>>>>>>H80 because of the fans.

This guy is pretty close in performance with the H100 as well, and is a pretty penny less.

But yeah, when I meant watercooling, I mean full on watercooling. Like this kit.

I got your PM but I just saw this. The h80i has bigger fans correct? As long as I can get dual fans in the h80i then I will be a happy camper.

 

[mkenyon]

Nah, H80 is 120mm fans. But fan size is only part of the equation when you are talking about radiator/heatsink fans. The #1 stat you need to look at is static pressure, as it needs to force air through a restrictive metal device. The fans that come on the H80i are basically versions of the SP120s which can spin up or down from 700-2400RPM. They are super super quiet too, besting Noctua at similar RPMs. The fans that come on the H80 are loud and not as good.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

Reading some of the things on the h80i and the FW is sort of troubling. Some people are having issues and note that it's a negative to have to have SATA connectivity for the fan control via the app you get to manage things.

 

[mkenyon]

Reading some of the things on the h80i and the FW is sort of troubling. Some people are having issues and note that it's a negative to have to have SATA connectivity for the fan control via the app you get to manage things.

Strange...

Well, you could always get the H80 and a pair of SP120s, or something like the Switech Helix, Cougar Vortex, Arctic Cooling F12.

 

[theytookourjobz]

Thinking about buying a EVGA 670 FTW 2GB card to replace my Sapphire 6870. Will it be a pretty noticeable upgrade? I'm looking at about $320 for the 670 through the Amazon Warehouse and I've got some Amazon credit so it's not going to cost too much out of pocket. I'm running a 2500k at stock speeds as well.

 

[mkenyon]

Thinking about buying a EVGA 670 FTW 2GB card to replace my Sapphire 6870. Will it be a pretty noticeable upgrade? I'm looking at about $320 for the 670 through the Amazon Warehouse and I've got some Amazon credit so it's not going to cost too much out of pocket. I'm running a 2500k at stock speeds as well.

OC the processor first, see how you like the increase.

But, yeah, that'll be noticeable. Just don't get the EVGA card. It's literally twice as loud as cards like the Gigabyte Windforce and ASUS DCII.

 

[Horse Detective]

Can you guys educate me on why samsung ram is preferred

 

[Shambles]

Can you guys educate me on why samsung ram is preferred

A little bit lower voltage and a little bit lower profile. In the end it doesn't matter. Get whatever is cheapest for you at the time.