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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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B

BronsonLee

Member
mkenyon said:
Do it. You have a lot more room for future upgrades on the new one.
Click to expand...

Definitely true; the case is bigger too, has more case fans, and probably front audio that isn't broken (for some reason the front audio ports on my case aren't HD Audio). The specs on the other one, especially hd wise, blow mine away.

It's just the sentimental thing, really (beyond the pain of having to set stuff up again). I was waffling for ages on whether to build my own, bought the parts for myself for Christmas, and did it Christmas Eve. A lot of the parts came from friends who had spares too. Then the bag containing the PC was lost on my way home, and I only got it back a week ago. It's been on a trip! :p

But definitely worth the upgrade? How would it be gaming wise? I can play Hitman and Far Cry on medium-high at 1080p, but it does eventually conk out/bsod on me if I try to do a marathon session. Would there be a noticeable improvement?

Edit: The fact that I have no idea what I would do with the one I built also complicates it. It's custom, so hard to sell, and I wouldn't really need the parts...
 
DJ_Lae

DJ_Lae

Member
Just wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions and help the past week or so. All my parts are ordered, now I get the painful process of waiting for them so I can put it together.

I also ordered an anti-static wrist strap. I've never needed one before, but I've also never worked on a PC in a place as dry as Edmonton before either: I fart in the winter and I generate a static charge. I realize I could just touch my case periodically but I figure for a couple of bucks it's worth peace of mind (if little else).

I nabbed the $40 upgrade version of Windows 8, too, and will do a clean install on the SSD I'm taking out of my current computer.
 
Z

Zeliard

Member
Looking for a relatively cheap (~$150) but solid pair of 2.1 speakers. Anyone have any recommendations? Room size for where those will go is relatively small.

I've had my eye on these but the lack of sub is what's keeping me from jumping on it. Still, 2.0 could be fine - are the Creative T40s solid?
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
BronsonLee said:
Edit: The fact that I have no idea what I would do with the one I built also complicates it. It's custom, so hard to sell, and I wouldn't really need the parts...
Click to expand...
I'd most definitely buy the Proc and RAM off of you, and possibly the case/PSU. I thought you were trading yours for the new one.

Are you just straight up buying the new one? If so, how much is the asking price?
 
B

BronsonLee

Member
mkenyon said:
I'd most definitely buy the Proc and RAM off of you, and possibly the case/PSU. I thought you were trading yours for the new one.

Are you just straight up buying the new one? If so, how much is the asking price?
Click to expand...

Nope, I'm trading other stuff for it. Without getting into it, it's a very good deal.

The case/psu is that XION XON one that was 30 bucks after rebate at Newegg. It's shockingly decent, but the case on the other is much better. I like the front on mine better though.

If you want it after I get the new one, let me know and we can try and work something out. Beyond the overheating for marathon gaming, I love the setup. Nothing is out of reach with the thing.
 
T

tafer

Member
DJ_Lae said:
I nabbed the $40 upgrade version of Windows 8, too, and will do a clean install on the SSD I'm taking out of my current computer.
Click to expand...

I had problems with that. The update version requires to be installed on a machine with a previews installation of windows. And for some extremely fuck up reason, it will let you install and do everything fine until it decides to let you know that your copy isn't activated and your code doesn't work because you clean installed.

Naturally, there are ways to work around this issue, but the "legality" of said methods is questionable.

Personally, Windows 8 activation process for certain machines is the single biggest issue why I hate it and don't recommend it.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
I have a waterblock, FM2 itx board, and a radiator waiting to make a silent HTPC capable of playing games at a decent rate.

The only deals I've seen on the A series CPUs have been on the A8, where I want the A10.
 
B

BronsonLee

Member
mkenyon said:
I have a waterblock, FM2 itx board, and a radiator waiting to make a silent HTPC capable of playing games at a decent rate.

The only deals I've seen on the A series CPUs have been on the A8, where I want the A10.
Click to expand...

Then yeah, A10's your bet. The research I did told me faster RAM the better, so I got 2133 RAM and a MB that could handle it. The only deals I saw on the A10 were either a combo deal or like 10 bucks off.
 
T

Ty4on

Member
BronsonLee said:
Then yeah, A10's your bet. The research I did told me faster RAM the better, so I got 2133 RAM and a MB that could handle it. The only deals I saw on the A10 were either a combo deal or like 10 bucks off.
Click to expand...

He could watercool the memory and maybe for once it wouldn't be useless :p
 
I

iavi

Member
This may sound like the dumbest question ever, but: Does anyone with the Corsair 550D know if I can run the case with the front panel door closed? I've installed 2 AF120's in there as front-intake--performance editions, but the panel door blocking them when closed just doesn't make any sense. It looks a ton better, though.

The press-button cover I'm sure has to be taken off, leaving only the magnetic dust cover.
 
P

plasticpassion

Member
How feasible is it to use my liquid cooking system that's ~4 years old in a new build? I can't link the name of it right now as I'm at work, but it was definitely a decent one back then.
 
G

garath

Member
Miizy F Baby said:
This may sound like the dumbest question ever, but: Does anyone with the Corsair 550D know if I can run the case with the front panel door closed? I've installed 2 AF120's in there as front-intake--performance editions, but the panel door blocking them when closed just doesn't make any sense. It looks a ton better, though.

The press-button cover I'm sure has to be taken off, leaving only the magnetic dust cover.
Click to expand...

Isn't there a vent on each side of the door that allows for airflow?
 
C

Credo

Member
I need some help, PC GAF. I bought this Corsair SSD from Newegg and got it today. I opened my PC, plugged the SATA cable and power supply cable into it, and booted up the system.

For some reason, my system doesn't show the SSD in this window:

rm7IT.jpg


However, when I enter the Device Manager, it appears above my current HDD:

dEaYj.jpg


After that, I put my Windows 7 disc in the drive to see if it would give me an option to install to the SSD, but the only drive that appeared was my current 1 TB HDD.

I planned to do a clean install on the SSD, but I'm a bit worried now. I thought about removing my current HDD and starting the system with only my SSD and Windows 7 disc, but I don't know what will happen. Even if I were able to do a clean install onto my SSD from there, would there still be the issue of my product key existing on the HDD? I don't know how Microsoft monitors that.

Any helpful answers from you all will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
S

scogoth

Member
Credo said:
I need some help, PC GAF. I bought this Corsair SSD from Newegg and got it today. I opened my PC, plugged the SATA cable and power supply cable into it, and booted up the system.

For some reason, my system doesn't show the SSD in this window:

rm7IT.jpg


However, when I enter the Device Manager, it appears above my current HDD:

dEaYj.jpg


After that, I put my Windows 7 disc in the drive to see if it would give me an option to install to the SSD, but the only drive that appeared was my current 1 TB HDD.

I planned to do a clean install on the SSD, but I'm a bit worried now. I thought about removing my current HDD and starting the system with only my SSD and Windows 7 disc, but I don't know what will happen. Even if I were able to do a clean install onto my SSD from there, would there still be the issue of my product key existing on the HDD? I don't know how Microsoft monitors that.

Any helpful answers from you all will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

You have to initialize the drive in disk management. It's in the left side below device manager of the MMC window.
 
I

Infinite Justice

Member
Credo said:
I need some help, PC GAF. I bought this Corsair SSD from Newegg and got it today. I opened my PC, plugged the SATA cable and power supply cable into it, and booted up the system.

For some reason, my system doesn't show the SSD in this window:

rm7IT.jpg


However, when I enter the Device Manager, it appears above my current HDD:

dEaYj.jpg


After that, I put my Windows 7 disc in the drive to see if it would give me an option to install to the SSD, but the only drive that appeared was my current 1 TB HDD.

I planned to do a clean install on the SSD, but I'm a bit worried now. I thought about removing my current HDD and starting the system with only my SSD and Windows 7 disc, but I don't know what will happen. Even if I were able to do a clean install onto my SSD from there, would there still be the issue of my product key existing on the HDD? I don't know how Microsoft monitors that.

Any helpful answers from you all will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Go to Disk Management (had to do it with my 1TB HDD and it also made win 8 annoying at first since i didn't know how to reach DM on that thing)
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
plasticpassion said:
How feasible is it to use my liquid cooking system that's ~4 years old in a new build? I can't link the name of it right now as I'm at work, but it was definitely a decent one back then.
Click to expand...
H50 probably? Totally fine.
Miizy F Baby said:
This may sound like the dumbest question ever, but: Does anyone with the Corsair 550D know if I can run the case with the front panel door closed? I've installed 2 AF120's in there as front-intake--performance editions, but the panel door blocking them when closed just doesn't make any sense. It looks a ton better, though.

The press-button cover I'm sure has to be taken off, leaving only the magnetic dust cover.
Click to expand...
Yeah, it's designed to work with the door closed.
 
S

sorijealut

Member
IT IS DONE.

My build
gtUjk.jpgFront


I've decided to use blue rings on my af120s, as the motherboard was looking lonely :)
Runs quiet as a mouse, barely audible even with 12V to the exposed fans.

AeEhv.jpg

Back (cables)
Let me just say, I will appreciate modular technology a lot more now ;_; haha
Click to expand...
YES! EVERYTHING SEEMS TO WORK
I can't believe it.
A big sigh of relief, and another HUGE thank you to PCGAF!
 
C

Credo

Member
Couchaddict said:
@Credo : Microsoft monitors mainly the motherboard.
Click to expand...

Thanks, couchaddict. Now that my PC recognizes the SSD, I shouldn't have an issue. I have everything I need from my current installation on an external HDD, so I'll just wipe my internal HDD and do a clean install of Win 7 on the SSD. Then, there shouldn't be a problem with the product key.

By the way, since my PC is used to booting up on my HDD, is there some way to designate the SSD as my boot drive and my HDD as a secondary drive?
 
S

sorijealut

Member
mkenyon said:
Looks great man. Enjoy the silence.
Click to expand...

Thanks heh heh. Fan layout inspiration from you!

Btw guys, so I've no Windows in the mail still,
and checknig the BIOs screen, I noticed my CHA_FAN3 (front bottom fan) kept blinking red and blue with low rpm. What is the matter?

Also, I exited out of that screen and it keeps telling me to choose a boot device or something :(. I kept pressing reset and power buttons to retry, which I can't imagine being good for my HDD.

Haven't watched any videos about BIOs OR Windows yet... better start now.
 
E

Echoplx

Member
You can't do anything past BIOS without some form of bootable media (ie Windows disk or bootable USB) also, installing Windows is very straightforward, shouldn't have any troubles there :p
 
LiquidMetal14

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
mkenyon already gave me solid gold advice but now I'm actually contmeplating water cooling for the first time. I am looking at the 3930k based on earlier advice and ran into this CPU water solution.

So I'm understanding right, this water solution will beat any air solution? I want the best temps and am taking this particular build quite serious and to be honest, it looks really easy to set up.

I'm not looking to spend 100 on this solution so the Coolermaster I linked for 55 is right up my alley. This would be the first time I have ever used water cooling so I want to get it right.
 
S

Smokey

Member
LiquidMetal14 said:
mkenyon already gave me solid gold advice but now I'm actually contmeplating water cooling for the first time. I am looking at the 3930k based on earlier advice and ran into this CPU water solution.

So I'm understanding right, this water solution will beat any air solution? I want the best temps and am taking this particular build quite serious and to be honest, it looks really easy to set up.

I'm not looking to spend 100 on this solution so the Coolermaster I linked for 55 is right up my alley. This would be the first time I have ever used water cooling so I want to get it right.
Click to expand...

No

He was most likely talking about true water cooling. The units like the one you linked to aren't that much better than air coolers (worse than some actually). The benefit of using a closed water system like that is it takes up less space in your system and is more aesthetically pleasing IMO (compared to the air coolers out there).
 
LiquidMetal14

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Smokey said:
No

He was most likely talking about true water cooling. The units like the one you linked to aren't that much better than air coolers (worse than some actually). The benefit of using a closed water system like that is it takes up less space in your system and is more aesthetically pleasing IMO (compared to the air coolers out there).
Click to expand...

I am thinking about using the Corsair Hydro H80. I'm actually going to lower my GPU cost a little and go with the ASUS gtx670 to offset this cost. And I do agree on your preference. I am tired of dealing with a huge heatsink and fan assembly. Reading the reviews has almost sold me on the H80.
 
S

Smokey

Member
LiquidMetal14 said:
I am thinking about using the Corsair Hydro H80. I'm actually going to lower my GPU cost a little and go with the ASUS gtx670 to offset this cost. And I do agree on your preference. I am tired of dealing with a huge heatsink and fan assembly. Reading the reviews has almost sold me on the H80.
Click to expand...

Read this article my friend

The H80i (the refreshed model) does better than the H100i and I think all but one other in the comparison above. Cost quite a bit though.
 
LiquidMetal14

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Smokey said:
Read this article my friend

The H80i (the refreshed model) does better than the H100i and I think all but one other in the comparison above. Cost quite a bit though.
Click to expand...

I think I like my choice in the H80 after reading that. I can't break the bank and get the Kraken x60 as it's 140USD but it certainly looks and benches nice based on your link.

H80i seems to be to dollars more, may look into that.
 
S

sorijealut

Member
Smokey said:
No

He was most likely talking about true water cooling. The units like the one you linked to aren't that much better than air coolers (worse than some actually). The benefit of using a closed water system like that is it takes up less space in your system and is more aesthetically pleasing IMO (compared to the air coolers out there).
Click to expand...

Ahh, I think I understand that closed-loop business now.

3chopl0x said:
You can't do anything past BIOS without some form of bootable media (ie Windows disk or bootable USB) also, installing Windows is very straightforward, shouldn't have any troubles there :p
Click to expand...

lol, um I'm so noob :)
alright, I'm so ready. I will try USB approach, since I have no disk drive.
 
Irobot82

Irobot82

Member
sorijealut said:
IT IS DONE.


YES! EVERYTHING SEEMS TO WORK
I can't believe it.
A big sigh of relief, and another HUGE thank you to PCGAF!
Click to expand...

You know if you buy a sata externder and a sata molex converter you can get away with just one modular cable for your GPU and one for your SSD, HDD, DVD, Fan Controller. Having just those two connected to the PSU really cleans up the case.
 
LiquidMetal14

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
mkenyon said:
H80i>>>>>>H80 because of the fans.

This guy is pretty close in performance with the H100 as well, and is a pretty penny less.

But yeah, when I meant watercooling, I mean full on watercooling. Like this kit.
Click to expand...

I got your PM but I just saw this. The h80i has bigger fans correct? As long as I can get dual fans in the h80i then I will be a happy camper.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Nah, H80 is 120mm fans. But fan size is only part of the equation when you are talking about radiator/heatsink fans. The #1 stat you need to look at is static pressure, as it needs to force air through a restrictive metal device. The fans that come on the H80i are basically versions of the SP120s which can spin up or down from 700-2400RPM. They are super super quiet too, besting Noctua at similar RPMs. The fans that come on the H80 are loud and not as good.
 
LiquidMetal14

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Reading some of the things on the h80i and the FW is sort of troubling. Some people are having issues and note that it's a negative to have to have SATA connectivity for the fan control via the app you get to manage things.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
LiquidMetal14 said:
Reading some of the things on the h80i and the FW is sort of troubling. Some people are having issues and note that it's a negative to have to have SATA connectivity for the fan control via the app you get to manage things.
Click to expand...
Strange...

Well, you could always get the H80 and a pair of SP120s, or something like the Switech Helix, Cougar Vortex, Arctic Cooling F12.
 
T

theytookourjobz

Junior Member
Thinking about buying a EVGA 670 FTW 2GB card to replace my Sapphire 6870. Will it be a pretty noticeable upgrade? I'm looking at about $320 for the 670 through the Amazon Warehouse and I've got some Amazon credit so it's not going to cost too much out of pocket. I'm running a 2500k at stock speeds as well.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
theytookourjobz said:
Thinking about buying a EVGA 670 FTW 2GB card to replace my Sapphire 6870. Will it be a pretty noticeable upgrade? I'm looking at about $320 for the 670 through the Amazon Warehouse and I've got some Amazon credit so it's not going to cost too much out of pocket. I'm running a 2500k at stock speeds as well.
Click to expand...
OC the processor first, see how you like the increase.

But, yeah, that'll be noticeable. Just don't get the EVGA card. It's literally twice as loud as cards like the Gigabyte Windforce and ASUS DCII.
 
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