Here is what it currently looks like on my screen:
That means something is wrong, right?
Yeah, that's some busted memory right there. Definitely the cause of your random bluescreens. Get it replaced and you should be ok.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
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Yeah, that's some busted memory right there. Definitely the cause of your random bluescreens. Get it replaced and you should be ok.
I'm looking at a similar setup, but considering holding off on the GPU for something more powerful like a 670, unless that will necessitate a considerably more expensive power supply.
Anyone have opinions on the PC part picker power usage tool? I'm using it to get a general idea.
Aquaero can be done through the PC and automatically as well. The front screen is more for HUD info than it is anything else.
You also get the benefit of adding all sorts of goodies to it that you can't really find anywhere else. Flow sensor, pressure sensor, water temp at multiple stages, res fill level, pump RPM/speed, etc. Read more about it here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/12/20/ac-aquaero-5-review-guide-wip/
EVGA cards are twice as loud as the ASUS or Gigabyte versions, and run much warmer.
Otherwise looks good.
I am very much a proponent of 670>>>>>>>>660Ti if you can budget it. Otherwise, go for it.
just remembered this
http://mrarmageddon.blogspot.nl/2012/10/project-bright-panel-battle-of-fan.html
Aquacomputer aquaero vs Corsair Link review/comparison/Pros&Cons
http://mrarmageddon.blogspot.nl/2012/10/project-bright-panel-battle-of-fan.html
Aquacomputer aquaero vs Corsair Link review/comparison/Pros&Cons
I'm leaning toward the 670 but I don't know if that will require a bump to the PSU. Is that Antec 550w closer to the low end of acceptable or would you upgrade it?
Just noticed the new Corsair ACTS 710. Room for a rad in the top and the front. All front HDD cages are removable. Roomy ATX, but not full size, which is just right for someone like me.
Can't wait to see more on this guy, the beautiful aluminum exterior fits perfectly with a design scheme I've been mulling around with.
Can't wait to see more on this guy, the beautiful aluminum exterior fits perfectly with a design scheme I've been mulling around with.
That's totally fine. The system linked would only use about 225-250W at load.
Hey guys I'm new to PC.gaming and I'm looking into building myself my first gaming PC. What do you guys think about these parts?
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($127.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($112.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: XFX Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($55.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer ($20.68 @ Amazon)
Total: $832.60
My roommate is giving me 8 gigs of ram and a power supply so that's why those aren't on the list. I wanna be able to play all current games on highest settings available at 1080p, 60fps
Also should I go with windows 7 or 8?
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($127.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($112.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: XFX Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($55.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer ($20.68 @ Amazon)
Total: $832.60
My roommate is giving me 8 gigs of ram and a power supply so that's why those aren't on the list. I wanna be able to play all current games on highest settings available at 1080p, 60fps
Also should I go with windows 7 or 8?
Quick question.
Current specs:
So I got an i7-3770k for $105 dollars. If I do keep it, what else should I be looking to upgrade from my current specs? Was thinking of getting a newer GPU also, but I'm not sure if now is a good time to upgrade or if something newer is coming out soon.
I only really do gaming, so I'm not sure if the i7-3770k is overkill for that. I was thinking of selling it, but if it's worth it to upgrade over what I have, I'd rather do that.
Any input is appreciated.
Current specs:
So I got an i7-3770k for $105 dollars. If I do keep it, what else should I be looking to upgrade from my current specs? Was thinking of getting a newer GPU also, but I'm not sure if now is a good time to upgrade or if something newer is coming out soon.
I only really do gaming, so I'm not sure if the i7-3770k is overkill for that. I was thinking of selling it, but if it's worth it to upgrade over what I have, I'd rather do that.
Any input is appreciated.
ShinobiFist
Banned
No such thing as overkill. You're not building for now, but for tomorrow.
What PSU is it out of interest?
Rest of the build looks solid though. Only thing I'd look at is your GPU, for the same money you could have a Tahiti LE 7870 which is basically the power of the 7950 at 7870 prices http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131484&Tpk=tahiti le Can't see any other versions of it anywhere else on US sites but Sapphire and Club3D also do variants of it.
I'd sell on the 3770K and make a nice profit that can go towards a new GPU, if you're just gaming the 2500K is still a perfect CPU for it especially when overclocked.
I'd also go W7 unless you can get 8 crazy cheap/free.
Hi all. I'm having a startup issue. I asked this in the TechSupport GAF Thread, but received no help. Maybe someone here can shed some light.
When I startup my pc it hangs on the Windows startup screen for 15-20 seconds, sometimes longer. This only started to happen after I reformatted my ssd after I updated the firmware. Before I reformatted and using stock firmware, I had no issues. Here are my specs
i7 2700k oc'd to 4.5ghz
Asus Maximus extreme-iv
OCZ Vertex 4 Ssd
Msi 680
16 gb ram
850w psu
Windows 7
Any ideas why this is happening? Makes no sense. Could it be the updated firmware causing this? I'm oc'ing the same as before the reformat.
When I startup my pc it hangs on the Windows startup screen for 15-20 seconds, sometimes longer. This only started to happen after I reformatted my ssd after I updated the firmware. Before I reformatted and using stock firmware, I had no issues. Here are my specs
i7 2700k oc'd to 4.5ghz
Asus Maximus extreme-iv
OCZ Vertex 4 Ssd
Msi 680
16 gb ram
850w psu
Windows 7
Any ideas why this is happening? Makes no sense. Could it be the updated firmware causing this? I'm oc'ing the same as before the reformat.
Sell it and wait for Haswell.
Go to the OCZ support forums, as that is clearly the source of the issue.
Club3D and Powercolor are literally the same business. From what I understand, Club3D sells binned cards. Wish they would start selling in the US.
Good job, welcome to the future and 20 second start up times(read somewhere on the internet that's what W8+SSD does). I'm not familiar with that SSD though.
didn't know that. Overclock3D had their review of the Club3D one up earlier and Tom seemed to absolutely adore the card, Gold award and the value for money award
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/gpu_displays/club_3d_7870_joker_xt_edition_review/1
There is his usual lengthy video on YouTube to go along with the review too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiM10G7UyOg
So, I've been playing around with the idea of putting together a gaming PC for 3D gaming on my TV. This would be the first time I build a PC, any thoughts on the below build? I would prefer the total to be closer to 1K, but it seems ok where it is now.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xAA5
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($289.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1102.89
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xAA5
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($289.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1102.89
So do Club3D typically get the lesser silicon?
thanks for the input! i go ahead and get thqt card instead. btw the power supply is a 750 watt hale 90. and the ram is 8gb Mushkin enhanced redline 1600mhz
Koroviev
Member
Good job, welcome to the future and 20 second start up times(read somewhere on the internet that's what W8+SSD does). I'm not familiar with that SSD though.
I could have picked up one from Amazon or Newegg, but buying one from work means immediate gratification. So, it will be my project when I'm off in a few hours. Reinstalling an upgrade copy of Windows 8 is kind of a chore, but it should be pretty straight forward.
Just the opposite! Stuff overclocks like a dream. This is anecdotal, but both PowerColor and Club3D are owned by the same guy. He started Club3D as the performance brand focused on delivering binned GPUs that can OC consistently higher than the competition. The only comparable situation to this is EVGA's Classified cards, which are sold at a huge premium.
I'm looking to get a desktop computer that's capable of running hd video smoothly, streaming it to other devices, and running silently for long periods of time without heating issues. I imagine that this wouldn't require anything particularly strong, and would like to keep the price low, but I don't really know. Ability to run modern office programs is probably a must as well.
I don't have the expertise to build one myself, so I'm looking for a pre-made one. Dell has a 48-hour sale going on right now (http://www.dell.com/ca/p/weekly-dea...25844&acd=RAN6IX-6WABT-OL5DA0-KEKEYV-L0HF4-v1) - would any of those work well? Should I be waiting for prices to drop now because of CES?
Any suggestions?
Edit: I may want to note that my intended purpose is to use the desktop, aside from regular PC use, to stream Internet videos (shows and stuff that aren't necessarily on Netflix, etc.) to a tv in lieu of paying for both Internet and cable tv. I have a blu-ray player that is dlna certified, so I guess it would be possible to stream wirelessly to the tv through the player? Not sure how well that would work.
I don't have the expertise to build one myself, so I'm looking for a pre-made one. Dell has a 48-hour sale going on right now (http://www.dell.com/ca/p/weekly-dea...25844&acd=RAN6IX-6WABT-OL5DA0-KEKEYV-L0HF4-v1) - would any of those work well? Should I be waiting for prices to drop now because of CES?
Any suggestions?
Edit: I may want to note that my intended purpose is to use the desktop, aside from regular PC use, to stream Internet videos (shows and stuff that aren't necessarily on Netflix, etc.) to a tv in lieu of paying for both Internet and cable tv. I have a blu-ray player that is dlna certified, so I guess it would be possible to stream wirelessly to the tv through the player? Not sure how well that would work.
I need a new PWM fan for my Hyper 212 plus. I've narrowed it down to the Noctua:
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=66920
I would have bought a Corsair SP 120mm but they don't make a 4-pin version and they seem kind of loud.
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=66920
I would have bought a Corsair SP 120mm but they don't make a 4-pin version and they seem kind of loud.
Please excuse my lack of familiarity with stuff of this sort, but that little box would be able to stream high quality video off the internet to a tv no problem (how much ram would be good?)? Potentially wirelessly? And run recent versions of MS Office programs/perform general pc functions? And cost less than a regular tower even after getting a drive for storage space?
It at least looks like it'd be silent and have no heating issues.
Neat little box if so.
Nope. I'm guessing $150-200 though.
Yes, the one in front generally has more interference.
Arctic Cooling F12, Cougar Vortex for PWM. Less than half the price of the Noctua and still good performance. If you like the SP, but don't want a loud one, then just get a quiet edition.
Yes, 4GB will be fine but 8 if you like to have a ton of chrome tabs, yes (but save yourself headaches and get Powerline Ethernet), yes, yes.
They're pretty sweet!
Pretty much.
Also, here's the WiFi version. I still say powerline > wifi unless your house is really old.
RumblingRosco
Member
My place is 75 years old and I occasionally get some weird "feedback" type of thing from some outlets, so I certainly won't personally be entertaining any ideas of using powerline until I move in a few years... and boy, I cannot wait to switch to it.
Doesn't the need to get:
- Additional ram (I can't tell how much is included - none? And I'd have to install it myself?)
- an OS (none pre-installed?)
- an ssd
Make it end up costing around what a tower does anyway? (E.g. The dell ones on sale I linked to before - though I don't know how they compare ability-wise)
It's times like this that show me just how little I really know about computers, haha.
FallingEdge
Member
Just setup my BenQ 2420T. This monitor is gorgeous. 120hz is the greatest thing ever.
They use far less power, are tiny, and are basically silent. Good 64GB SSDs can often be found for $50-60, this 8GB of Samsung memory is $38. With an OS, you're looking at $400-500, but get the added benefit of really good memory and a really nice SSD (which I can't say enough about). How many of those desktops in the same price range have a nice SSD?
Seriously, right? It's soooooooo huge.
So if I got that box with...
ADATA XPG SX300 ASX300S3-128GM-C mSATA 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
And some ram I'd be good? That ram you linked to is out of stock/discontinued on newegg.ca. How do you install ram?
Thanks for all your help!
You push them in the slots, pretty easy peasy. Probably the single easiest thing to install on a PC. http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148276
I'd grab this mSATA SSD if you are looking for 128GB.
With that setup, I'm not kidding when I say if you were to click on a program, it will appear on the screen nearly instantly. SSDs are rad.
I'd grab this mSATA SSD if you are looking for 128GB.
With that setup, I'm not kidding when I say if you were to click on a program, it will appear on the screen nearly instantly. SSDs are rad.
This is for a Laptop, right?
It depends on the model. Sometimes, the RAM is under the HDD, sometimes it isn't. It's not that difficult and you shouldn't have any problems.
Ok, so now I've got...
- the box
- Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1066 (PC3 8500) Laptop Memory Model CT2KIT51264BC1067
And
- Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD3 mSATA 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) (SSDs just slot into place too?)
So I'd be good then? I think I could get Windows 7 from an older desktop, as well as a spare monitor and power cord, so I guess I wouldn't have to buy those.
How does that compare to say...http://configure.dell.com/dellstore...el_id=inspiron-660&c=ca&l=en&s=dhs&cs=cadhs1& ?
The Dell doesn't have an SSD, but does have 1TB of storage. NUC will have 8GB of RAM, Dell has 6GB. The Dell has a much higher power draw, will be audible, and is big. Other than that, they're pretty much identical for your purposes.
The SSD will make the NUC seem like it is much faster than the Dell though.
The SSD will make the NUC seem like it is much faster than the Dell though.
It would be both smaller and faster than that Dell, with a better graphics chip. Only thing lacking would be hard drive space, but you could easily add a USB3 hard drive if you find space is an issue.
EDIT: The i3-2130 in that Dell has the particularly terrible HD2000 graphics. The minibox has the HD4000 which is half assed capable as far as onboards go.
EDIT: The i3-2130 in that Dell has the particularly terrible HD2000 graphics. The minibox has the HD4000 which is half assed capable as far as onboards go.
FallingEdge
Member
Just bought a Sensei RAW rubberized.
Replacing an aging MX518. THIS BETTER BE GOOD MKENYON!
I just got the Sensei and it is by far my favorite gaming mouse.
Yeah I noticed the difference immediately. Only played league so far but can't wait to try out the other games.
There's a lot of games out there that will limit FPS from anywhere between 60-90 without some key checkboxes clicked which you'll want to look out for. I think you'd be well served by having a Fraps/Afterburner/PrecisionX HUD listing FPS to see for sure.
Yeah, I've heard they're pretty good. I think external DAC+AMP is the way to go though.
Yeah but I don't want to spend that kind of money on a DAC+Amp, but I'm tearing my hair out on which sound card I should get. The Xonar DX or Sound Blaster Z
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