Would you also say its better to just go with the 7850 instead?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161426
Already got one reccomendation, and the prices are pretty close when you take out the rebate giftcard.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
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Would you also say its better to just go with the 7850 instead?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161426
Already got one reccomendation, and the prices are pretty close when you take out the rebate giftcard.
Just make sure everything is screwed in properly. you should be fine.
Dave_6
Member
I've never built a PC or had a dedicated gaming PC so this is all new to me. I've always been a console gamer and still am plus more than likely will be buying both of the new consoles when they release. I've just been wanting to build a gaming PC for the past couple years and I've been bored with my console stuff for the past couple months. I also like that a PC can be upgraded unlike consoles.
Thanks, those are the ones I was looking for actually. I've read that those are better for making room for the GPU.
The sound card, I really have no idea. I noticed it has an optical out so I could hook it up to a 5.1 receiver in my living room. Is one really not needed?
ZombiePlatypus
Member
So, attempting to build one for the first time. (Looking to use it for gaming, digital painting and making music.) Doesn't need to be bleeding-edge but looking to have some oomph. This is what I have so far, but I kinda overshot my $1500 budget. Anything I can shave off? Any beginner mistakes I need to rectify? Input appreciated.
(Sorry if formatting is not ideal. Lemme know and I'll fix it.)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($499.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6/GB ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($279.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 12GB (3 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($72.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Hitachi Travelstar 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Travelstar 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTS 450 1GB Video Card ($160.82 @ NCIX US)
Case: Rosewill REDBONE U3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Samsung P2770FH 27.0" Monitor ($294.98 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Full (32/64-bit) ($162.50 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.39 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech 910-000806 Wired Trackball ($24.17 @ Amazon)
Total: $1881.77
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-13 22:32 EST-0500)
(Sorry if formatting is not ideal. Lemme know and I'll fix it.)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($499.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6/GB ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($279.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 12GB (3 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($72.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Hitachi Travelstar 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Travelstar 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTS 450 1GB Video Card ($160.82 @ NCIX US)
Case: Rosewill REDBONE U3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Samsung P2770FH 27.0" Monitor ($294.98 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Full (32/64-bit) ($162.50 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.39 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech 910-000806 Wired Trackball ($24.17 @ Amazon)
Total: $1881.77
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-13 22:32 EST-0500)
IMO:
Replace the processor with an i5-3570k or i7-3770k.
Get 8GB of the 30nm Samsung RAM instead of the 12GB Corsair.
Get a single 1TB drive instead of two 500GB drives.
Why do you need two Optical drives? Dump one.
Windows 7 Home Premium is $99 at Microcenter.
Maybe add in a Samsung 830 or Crucial M4 SSD.
Koroviev
Member
I would spend more on the graphics card and get a current GPU. The GTS 450 isn't a very impressive card at 1080p, especially for $160. Newegg currently has the 7850 for $200.
Edit: And I don't think you really want a wired mouse and keyboard. You can typically buy a wireless Logitech set for around $40. Do that instead.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
On the contrary with the CPU, KEEP that 3930k. Future proof PCIe 3.0 with 40 lanes on SB-E. Ditch the 2 optical drives though in favor of one.
The 3930k may be the last CPU you will need for 10 years (in general use).
On the PCIe 3.0 bit, x16, x16, x8 - for tripple or full x16, x16 for SLI/XF. No compromises and very future proof CPU that is going to be worth in the long run.
I know all about Haswell but you're not settling for some junk CPU in a 3930k. It's a high end CPU that will continue to be high end for a long, long time. Even with newer architecture or the next Intel step in their CPU cycles.
ALSO
Consider ditching one of the 500GB drives in favor of a cheap 60GB OS SSD.
Zuhzuhzombie!!
Member
Can someone recommend a solid, affordable, wireless keyboard and mouse setup for the living room? Would like to do some gaming on the coffee table or just controlling the PC while laid up on the love seat.
I like the small form factor of the Apple set with the track pad. While that's fine for Civ V it's not for any action games I may boot up (picked up Sleeping Dogs today).
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
I like the small form factor of the Apple set with the track pad. While that's fine for Civ V it's not for any action games I may boot up (picked up Sleeping Dogs today).
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
For digital painting and music making Keep the 3930k. I would also say keep the two 500GB drives; one for backup as it sound like you'll be doing work on this machine. A small OS SSD would go a long way it helping too if you can afford it in your budget. The GTS450 isn't going to do much for gaming but I would stay with NVIDIA for CUDA if your programs use it. Something like a 650TI would cover basic gaming and would be a lot better for CUDA programs.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
There's going to be compromises but the CPU (expensive) is a rock solid investment. A 6 core/12 thread CPU is no slouch nor will it be for a long time.
I agree with the general advise given. 1500 is a lot to play with and I'm building a similarly priced PC for around 1800 but I need some help by selling this PC (which I found a buyer for!).
I agree with the general advise given. 1500 is a lot to play with and I'm building a similarly priced PC for around 1800 but I need some help by selling this PC (which I found a buyer for!).
Is the 3930k so far past the 3770k that it's worth more than double the price at Microcenter? ($230 vs $500) I seriously don't know, because on the surface it doesn't look (to me) like it.
I was sort of attempting to get him back under his $1500 budget and that looked like the most obvious place to start...
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Yes, absolutely but that price is getting you nearly the performance of that 3960x which is double the price. The 3960x has more L3 cache and other benefits but that 3930k is damn good. The main issue is future upgradabilty (not a word
) to proper SLI (if need be). If he's absolutely tied down to this 1500 budget, I would move down to the 3820 (socket 2011) for around 300 AND be ready to upgrade to that 3930k in the future when more money comes along.I would consider the 3900 series the best in the enthusiast level sector but without being dramatically expensive (other than the 3960x). The 3820 will get you in the 2011 (socket) door and it's only around 300. I would not compromise any further than that on the CPU.
If your need is multimedia creation and that's your work its very easy to justify a 3930k because the 6c/12 threads will actually be used and speed up your work. For gaming no its not worth it but he said he does digital painting and music creation.
So I'm going to be upgrading my GPU with some of my tax money. I'm not sure what I should get so I'm going to ask you fine folks. I have a 6870 right now, not a bad card by means, I just want more power lol. So I'm looking to spend around $400, I can go over this a bit if needed but I don't want to really jump into the $500 range. Also don't care about amd or nivida.
QualityPixel
Banned
With that processor you will want 4 sticks of ram because it's a quad-channel system, so 4x4gb for 16gb of ram. But I think it would be a better idea to get something like an i7-3770k and a better video card in the $300 range if you are going to be gaming (Radeon 7950). If you get a more powerful video card then you will want a better PSU.
Also I don't think that processor comes with a cpu cooler. Since it's a 130w cpu you'll want to get a decent heat sink.
QualityPixel
Banned
I just upgraded from a 6950 to a 7970 a month ago and everything is butter now except Skyrim due to microstuttering (which is fixable with a framerate limiter), and ARMA2 mods like DayZ and Wasteland (which are very CPU intensive).
For anyone who runs into this problem, it is a bug with either Ubuntu or ATI's drivers, and I solved it with this: https://help.ubuntu.com/community/BinaryDriverHowto/ATI#WORKAROUND. Obviously, no guarantees, but things look like they're working for me. Now I have some time to customize!
ZombiePlatypus
Member
Thanks for all the input guys. I played around with it some more and ended up with this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($499.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6/GB ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($279.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Scorpio Black 320GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.62 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Scorpio Black 320GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.62 @ Amazon)
Video Card: XFX Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Rosewill REDBONE U3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Samsung P2770FH 27.0" Monitor ($294.98 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.39 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech 910-000806 Wired Trackball ($24.17 @ Amazon)
Total: $1816.68
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-14 00:09 EST-0500)
I'm doing two separate HDD's to opt for the set-up where both store the same data separately but simultaneously just in case one fails. (I know there was a term for this, but I can't seem to remember what it is.) Changed up the graphics card, and definitely got rid of the 2nd optical drive though.
After everything still landed around the same price-point. Will keep looking for ways to reduce the price, but I just might have to bite the bullet on this.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($499.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6/GB ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($279.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Scorpio Black 320GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.62 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Scorpio Black 320GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.62 @ Amazon)
Video Card: XFX Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Rosewill REDBONE U3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Samsung P2770FH 27.0" Monitor ($294.98 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.39 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech 910-000806 Wired Trackball ($24.17 @ Amazon)
Total: $1816.68
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-14 00:09 EST-0500)
I'm doing two separate HDD's to opt for the set-up where both store the same data separately but simultaneously just in case one fails. (I know there was a term for this, but I can't seem to remember what it is.) Changed up the graphics card, and definitely got rid of the 2nd optical drive though.
After everything still landed around the same price-point. Will keep looking for ways to reduce the price, but I just might have to bite the bullet on this.
Why do you want a 6 core i7? Your dumping a ton of money into this and going with a mid range GPU. I would go with at least a 7950 or a gtx 670.Thanks for all the input guys. I played around with it some more and ended up with this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($499.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6/GB ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($279.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Scorpio Black 320GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.62 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Scorpio Black 320GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.62 @ Amazon)
Video Card: XFX Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Rosewill REDBONE U3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Samsung P2770FH 27.0" Monitor ($294.98 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.39 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech 910-000806 Wired Trackball ($24.17 @ Amazon)
Total: $1816.68
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-14 00:09 EST-0500)
I'm doing two separate HDD's to opt for the set-up where both store the same data separately but simultaneously just in case one fails. (I know there was a term for this, but I can't seem to remember what it is.) Changed up the graphics card, and definitely got rid of the 2nd optical drive though.
After everything still landed around the same price-point. Will keep looking for ways to reduce the price, but I just might have to bite the bullet on this.
memecomplex
Member
Just chiming in on some of the info I've read on this page.
Having just built my own system, if you are building it mainly for gaming:
1. Do not install Win 8 just yet. If you have to, get Win 7 with a Win 8 upgrade, so you can roll back. I did. Too many apps and games have problems running in Win 8 atm.
2. Do not buy wireless KBM, the lag may be seem minimal, but it affects gameplay. I tried both wired and wireless over a course of a few days, went with wired regardless of the inconvenience of cabling. If you don't notice these things, more power to you. But if you play shooting games, you'll want the extra precision that comes with all things wired (including wired internet).
3. Buy as much power as you can afford. You monitor may only be 1080p but if you can, target higher resolutions so you can downsample to extract a finer picture quality with a significant amount of added detail. Check the awesum PC screen shot thread for examples: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=506297&highlight=pc+screen+shots
Start off by buying a decently specced Nvidia card with SLI in mind in the future, so you can drop in another card for more power. Currently multi GPUs work better in Nvidia cards than AMD; better support, less microstutter due to hardware etc. If you are going this route, try to go for a 670 minimum as it has more memory bandwidth compared to a 660Ti and will come in handy for resolutions higher than 1080p.
4. CPU is not as important as GPU is a myth. It may not be as important for singleplayer games, but you need a fast CPU for online multiplayer games. Basically, no such thing as overkill in the PC space.
5. Spend that dough for an SSD. Raid 0 them if your motherboard supports it, they load games roughly 2x as fast as a single SSD. 2x 128GBs in Raid 0 costs roughly the same as a 256GB SSD.
Having just built my own system, if you are building it mainly for gaming:
1. Do not install Win 8 just yet. If you have to, get Win 7 with a Win 8 upgrade, so you can roll back. I did. Too many apps and games have problems running in Win 8 atm.
2. Do not buy wireless KBM, the lag may be seem minimal, but it affects gameplay. I tried both wired and wireless over a course of a few days, went with wired regardless of the inconvenience of cabling. If you don't notice these things, more power to you. But if you play shooting games, you'll want the extra precision that comes with all things wired (including wired internet).
3. Buy as much power as you can afford. You monitor may only be 1080p but if you can, target higher resolutions so you can downsample to extract a finer picture quality with a significant amount of added detail. Check the awesum PC screen shot thread for examples: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=506297&highlight=pc+screen+shots
Start off by buying a decently specced Nvidia card with SLI in mind in the future, so you can drop in another card for more power. Currently multi GPUs work better in Nvidia cards than AMD; better support, less microstutter due to hardware etc. If you are going this route, try to go for a 670 minimum as it has more memory bandwidth compared to a 660Ti and will come in handy for resolutions higher than 1080p.
4. CPU is not as important as GPU is a myth. It may not be as important for singleplayer games, but you need a fast CPU for online multiplayer games. Basically, no such thing as overkill in the PC space.
5. Spend that dough for an SSD. Raid 0 them if your motherboard supports it, they load games roughly 2x as fast as a single SSD. 2x 128GBs in Raid 0 costs roughly the same as a 256GB SSD.
tehrik-e-insaaf
Member
Go with at least one SSD... makes a huge difference
On a separate note... Any video card suggestions for an XPS 8000 w/ 350 watt supply (but apparently can handle up to 400 watts?)... I don't mind upgrading the power supply... but I'd like to avoid it and put more money towards a new build in about 12 months...
Would a GeForce 660 Ti survive in a 350-400 W system? I have an i7-860, 8 gigs ram, and 1 terabyte 7200 rpm drive...
ZombiePlatypus
Member
I just don't want performance issues when working with Ableton Live/Photoshop/Illustrator/etc. (I could very well be wrong, but from what I've read, those stress systems easily.) If a lesser CPU can handle that, I'd gladly downgrade.
I would stick with 6 core. Most people here build for gaming so mid-CPU plus high end GPU is the way to go but for Live/Photoshop/Illustrator you want the 6 core CPU.
Koroviev
Member
Does that PSU even have the necessary connectors?
Okay well if that's what your building for, then yeah, the more cores the better.
tehrik-e-insaaf
Member
Yes =) But I hear mixed things regarding whether or not to upgrade... It seems people have been able to get 660 Ti and the 7850 running without using more than 250-300 watts
Hawk269
Member
Unless my reading comprehension has gone out the window, I don't really understand what you are saying. You said that you have both Win 7 and Win 8 installed but you only use Win 7 for benchmarking, but you use Win 8 for everything else. But you also say Win8 is worse for gaming, driver issues, annoying desktop use etc...but you use it over Win 7 still???
Hawk269
Member
Damn it Newegg! I was waiting to get paid cause I don't like to charge stuff on my cards for my ever growing habit if upgrading. I had a new Samsung 840 Pro 512GB SSD in my cart, it was on sale for $499.99. When I went to checkout, they sold out and now the price is back up to $599.99! Anyone know of any upcoming deals on the 840 Pro 512GB? I should of just ordered it when I had it in the cart! <pissed>
QualityPixel
Banned
I don't know about Ableton, but Photoshop and Illustrator will run just fine on any processor you are looking at. The real problem with Photoshop is that it is a moody program. Some days it runs super smooth, and other days transforming and using brush tools will feel slow and jerky. About 1/10 days for me are smooth Photoshop days, and that was with my my old AMD Phenom II 955 and with my new i5-3570k. Oh, and you need at least 8gb of ram if you want to multitask while using Photoshop (but you are going get that much or more anyway). My Macbook has 4gb of ram and you cant run Photoshop with a 1080p monitor hooked up and Netflix on the laptop's main screen with out major lag spikes. But it is just fine on my desktop because I have 8gb or ram.
QualityPixel
Banned
Is there any reason you want that SSD in particular? There are a lot of other SSD's that are the same speed and capacity but cost much less.
ok GAF I turn to you for advice ..... basically I just want to use this computer for, playing video games, streaming movies to my PS3, and doing Homework from college, which I'm just starting to get into programming classes (first class was Introduction to web development where I learned very basic javascript and SOME html).
Also this will be the First time I've ever built a computer, I've installed a graphics card and taken apart some laptops, but that's the extent of my knowledge
This is what I wrote to a buddy of mine, and trying to explain what my logic was
ere's what I'm thinking ........ I don't need a graphics card right away, like If I can somehow get the core components down to like
The Processor
The Mother Board
The Case
The Ram
that would make it so i could afford something like this is what I was looking at.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/x5QC
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/x5QC/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/x5QC/benchmarks/
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Silverline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($33.84 @ NCIX US)
Case: Antec Three Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq 500W ATX12V Power Supply ($54.24 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $448.04
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-11 18:43 EST-0500))
Now here's the 2 questions I have, as you see theres 2 things missing from up there, the first is that there is no storage, and the second is that there is no Video card.
The 2 biggest questions I have is, I have a Dell Dimension 2400 that I'm typing this from, is there any way that I can take the hard drive off of here and put that into the new computer until I can plop a hundred or so down for an SSD drive? I don't want to buy a hard drive because I really want an SSD drive but they are a little pricey, and it would be dumb to just get a normal hard drive when I'm gonna replace it in a month anyways. Plus I have a couple of hard drives from my old laptops
Secondly, can I use just the the "integrated graphics card" in the the core i5, for a week or 2, and save up for a nice 250 - 300 video card? It makes no sense for me to spend 100 bux on one now, and then 200 or so on one later, I'm not asking if I can play GAMES on it without a video card, I'm saying can i get it up and operational and able to browse the web etc make sure I didn't screw anything up with just the "integrated graphics card"
I'm trying to keep this to around $400 now, and have probably an extra couple hundred in mid february to add shit. I have more than 400 bux now but school starts again in like 2 weeks and some of my books are gonna cost me like 200 bux and I want to make sure I save money for that, but in mid february Its my birthday and I expect a little extra than I normally get each month and want to build a gaming computer, something that can at least run some games with.
Also this will be the First time I've ever built a computer, I've installed a graphics card and taken apart some laptops, but that's the extent of my knowledge
This is what I wrote to a buddy of mine, and trying to explain what my logic was
ere's what I'm thinking ........ I don't need a graphics card right away, like If I can somehow get the core components down to like
The Processor
The Mother Board
The Case
The Ram
that would make it so i could afford something like this is what I was looking at.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/x5QC
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/x5QC/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/x5QC/benchmarks/
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Silverline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($33.84 @ NCIX US)
Case: Antec Three Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq 500W ATX12V Power Supply ($54.24 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $448.04
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-11 18:43 EST-0500))
Now here's the 2 questions I have, as you see theres 2 things missing from up there, the first is that there is no storage, and the second is that there is no Video card.
The 2 biggest questions I have is, I have a Dell Dimension 2400 that I'm typing this from, is there any way that I can take the hard drive off of here and put that into the new computer until I can plop a hundred or so down for an SSD drive? I don't want to buy a hard drive because I really want an SSD drive but they are a little pricey, and it would be dumb to just get a normal hard drive when I'm gonna replace it in a month anyways. Plus I have a couple of hard drives from my old laptops
Secondly, can I use just the the "integrated graphics card" in the the core i5, for a week or 2, and save up for a nice 250 - 300 video card? It makes no sense for me to spend 100 bux on one now, and then 200 or so on one later, I'm not asking if I can play GAMES on it without a video card, I'm saying can i get it up and operational and able to browse the web etc make sure I didn't screw anything up with just the "integrated graphics card"
I'm trying to keep this to around $400 now, and have probably an extra couple hundred in mid february to add shit. I have more than 400 bux now but school starts again in like 2 weeks and some of my books are gonna cost me like 200 bux and I want to make sure I save money for that, but in mid february Its my birthday and I expect a little extra than I normally get each month and want to build a gaming computer, something that can at least run some games with.
So I've got quite lazy. I want to be able to switch my radiator fans from a silent profile to a performance profile either at the press of a button or, ideally, when a game is launched. Now I don't know if this exists (bloody well should). I currently have a Lamptron fc 8 fan controller
What would be some solutions to this very first world problem?
What would be some solutions to this very first world problem?
Yes I don't have a license for windows 7 and the crack used no longer works so its shuts down every 2 hours so I only use it for benching.
So I've got quite lazy. I want to be able to switch my radiator fans from a silent profile to a performance profile either at the press of a button or, ideally, when a game is launched. Now I don't know if this exists (bloody well should). I currently have a Lamptron fc 8 fan controller
What would be some solutions to this very first world problem?
Yes it's called aquaero. It's expensive and proprietary but its awesome and fully programmable.
hhhmmmmmm interesting, thanks for the heads up.
After some looking around I think I might go for the Corsair link. It has multi stage auto, so as temps increase the fan can step through multiple preset RPM, which is exactly what I'm looking for. Plus it's done through the PC rather than a crappy touch screen and billions of menus.
You can't use the HDD from the dell. It's most likely a IDE HDD and that motherboard does not have a IDE port on it. Just buy a cheap sata HDD, you can use a ssd HDD at the same time when you get it later for more space. As for the graphics thing, you'll be fine. I have run integrated on first boot most of the time anyway since the drivers for my GPU are not installed yet.
archnemesis
Member
The first step is to run Memtest86+ to see if that's actually the issue or if it's something else, like a faulty driver.
Dave_6
Member
The motherboard already has an optical port on the rear of it
Ah, I learn something new every day.
Ah, I learn something new every day.
Unless you really care about audio quality on-board sound is perfectly good.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Since I'm very much in the dark when it comes to RAID setups, you need 2 HDD's to achieve RAID correct? A few posts back RAID is mentioned and I read it like it works on a single drive. I already have a 128gb Vertex 4 but if performance theoretically doubles then it may be a viable option for me to buy another one if it's going to mean that much better performance.
Zuhzuhzombie!!
Member
Test has been running for hours now. Can't make anything out of the data shown on the screen, nor do I have any idea of how long is left.
archnemesis
Member
I left it running a full work day when I had defective memory a year ago. I don't remember the details, but it was quite clear that it wasn't functioning properly.Test has been running for hours now. Can't make anything out of the data shown on the screen, nor do I have any idea of how long is left.
Edit: The errors column is supposed to say "0" if your memory is working correctly.
I think the top-right "pass" field is the total progress. Once that reaches 100% the test is complete.
archnemesis
Member
2 pass, 1108 errors? Send that image to the store you bought the RAM from and you might get new memory for free. I was surprised to learn that my memory sticks came with a 2 year warranty.
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