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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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mkenyon

Banned
Did you plug in both the power and the sata cable?

What other storage devices do you have? What are your SATA ports set to? IDE? AHCI? RAID?
I'm assuming 2500K, considering 2400 can't be OC'd? If so, there's no reason to upgrade. It's still pretty much the granddaddy of gaming processors.

90C is insane though. You probably seated your cooler poorly or have zero airflow in your case.
He's talking about single-threaded turbo mode I believe.
 
When was the last time you cleaned your case? What's the case airflow situation?

Any upgrade is going to be marginal at this point. You'll get some improvements in UE3 and Blizzard games, but that's about it. You would want to go 2500K/3570K in the $190-210 range, or 2700K/3770K in the $290-320 range.

I'd suggest waiting for haswell and fixing your airflow/cooler issue.

Case is brand new. It's in an open area and the fan is bigger than my first. I can't fathom as to why it's so hot.

The case inside is showing 19c ambient with my temp.sensor I threw in there.
 
My almost full 1,5 tb external hard drive has an crc-error for the 2nd time now and 2/3 of my data is not readable, even after a 30 hour chkdsk. Are there any other ways to restore the data somehow and can somebody recommend me a good 1,5 - 2tb external hard drive? Can I still use the old one without problems when I reformat it or will the error come back later again with different data?
 

mkenyon

Banned
You'll probably need to take it to a computer store to have them get the data off of it. There are no good external drives, they're almost entirely the worst/cheap drives put in external enclosures. If you need it for important backup purposes, get a WD Red/Black or Enterprise Drive (RE4) and put it in an enclosure.
 
You'll probably need to take it to a computer store to have them get the data off of it. There are no good external drives, they're almost entirely the worst/cheap drives put in external enclosures. If you need it for important backup purposes, get a WD Red/Black or Enterprise Drive (RE4) and put it in an enclosure.

Yes I mostly need a hard drive for backup and will later get an SSD for the OS when I reinstall my pc. Can I put the WD Red into my pc case and not in a NAS case aswell? Might grab the 3gb version.
 

scogoth

Member
Eh, the evga customer service is overblown. They have active forums and some really good PR that makes it seem like your situation is well taken care of. When time comes to RMA, an RMA is an RMA is an RMA. They all take about a week.

Tell that to BitFenix! One year and still waiting!
 

Mit-

Member
So, no recommendations on external storage drives? D:

If I'm just using it to store backups and large HD video files and stuff like that, do I really need to be worried that much? Looking for a 2TB external.
 

mkenyon

Banned
An external drive is a HDD put in an external enclosure. Any one you buy is going to be more or less the same from any of the makers, as they all put their budget/cheap HDDs in them. You can buy a HDD and an enclosure, often for less money than buying an external straight up.
 

Spazo

Member
I'll just quote a previous post I made, suffice to say you REALLY REALLY want to install RST (AFAIK there's just one version that you can download from Intel themselves):

After seeing this, I verified the intel website to see if there was an update on the RST driver since my first installation.

and... there was !!

on the same SSD (M4 Crucial 128gb) I went from a score of 600 to 771 !!! WOW :D
 

mkenyon

Banned
So, massive rumors inbound about the GTX 780. Three reports out recently that are all conflicting.

#1 Will NVIDIA make a GK110 consumer card?

There has been a lot of speculation about Nvidia’s GK110 GPU, specifically whether it will end up on the desktop or not. The short answer is that yes, it will.

SemiAccurate moles are saying that as of the latest roadmap update handed out about two weeks ago, there is a GeForce based on GK110. This was not the case on any prior roadmap, and it has some very interesting implications. If you are thinking that I mean upsetting the GPU performance ladder, that has nothing to do with it, GK110 is going to underperform expectations on the desktop because it is an HPC chip, not a gaming chip.

#2 NVIDIA Kepler Refresh GPU Family Detailed

The GK110 will take back the reins of powering NVIDIA's flagship single-GPU product, the GeForce GTX 780. This product could offer a massive 40-55% performance increase over GeForce GTX 680, with a price ranging anywhere between US $499 and $599. The same chip could even power the second fastest single-GPU SKU, the GTX 770. The GK110 physically packs 2880 CUDA cores, and a 384-bit wide GDDR5 memory interface.

#3 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780 Uses GK114 Kepler GPU, Is 15% Better than GTX 680

That the next-generation graphics adapter will use a different GPU than the GK110 is something we learned about at the start of the month (October 2012).

Now we have found confirmation that this is truly the case. No official confirmation, but we'll take what we can get.

SemiAccurate, citing two sources allegedly briefed on the matter, says that the chip in the GeForce GTX 780 will be called GK114 or GK114-GX. Or perhaps there will be two versions of the graphics processing unit.

It will take a while for the launch date to arrive though. NVIDIA has no plans to release the 780 before March 2013. It might not even be before April or May for that matter.

Lots of weird stuff out there.
 

hypernima

Banned
I fixed the drive problem but as always as soon as I fix one problem another pops up.

I tried putting in more RAM I just got from newegg and now my computer wont boot windows. Took the ram out still won't boot. Wondering if I just have to take all my RAM out to snap back in or clear the cmos.
 
D

Deleted member 22576

Unconfirmed Member
So I'm gonna overnight my CPU so I can build this weekend, should I do Amazon or Newegg next day? Is there any difference in reliability? I assume they'll both just use FedEx anyway.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Amazon does cross shipments. Newegg does not.

*edit* oh you mean no CPU yet. Are you west coast? If you do rush processing on newegg by 3pm, they'll ship it today.
 
D

Deleted member 22576

Unconfirmed Member
Yeah I'm in California and I know newegg ships from city of industry, ca. I was just looking at amazon one day shipping and newegg next day and wondering if one was more reliable. Amazon does "guarantee" delivery, but I'm sure that doesn't really mean anything. It's 3 dollars cheaper on newegg.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I buy almost everything from Amazon. Better customer support imo. They just make it happen and 1 day everything.
Shipping rates should be about the same.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yeah I'm in California and I know newegg ships from city of industry, ca. I was just looking at amazon one day shipping and newegg next day and wondering if one was more reliable. Amazon does "guarantee" delivery, but I'm sure that doesn't really mean anything. It's 3 dollars cheaper on newegg.
FWIW, Newegg '2 Day' is next day if you're in southern cali. Haz can attest to this.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
So today I load up Borderlands 2, then after about 3 minutes my screen goes black and I have to restart manually. Upon booting back into windows, I get this:

Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.48
Locale ID: 1033

Additional information about the problem:
BCCode: 116
BCP1: FFFFFA80110D8010
BCP2: FFFFF8800FCEF630
BCP3: FFFFFFFFC000009A
BCP4: 0000000000000004
OS Version: 6_1_7601
Service Pack: 1_0
Product: 256_1

Files that help describe the problem:
C:\Windows\Minidump\101712-5896-01.dmp
C:\Users\Celcius\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-9344-0.sysdata.xml

Read our privacy statement online:
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?linkid=104288&clcid=0x0409

If the online privacy statement is not available, please read our privacy statement offline:
C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt


According to windows event viewer, this is the same error I've been getting all summer. Any ideas?

edit: If I run msi kombuster for 3 minutes, the same thing happens...

edit2: This is the same issue I've been having all summer, I'm starting to think this psu is faulty...
 
No, I tried using MSI's OC Genie 2, and put it to 4.0 but it maxed out at 3.8 :\

I'll try to manually set it, I want it at 4.5

OC Genie is fucking garbage, use the OC settings menu instead to do it manually.


i experimented a bit and did 4.4 but i wasn't digging the temps prime95 was giving off tbh :(
 

scogoth

Member
Yay! New parts! And yes those are aquatuning gummy bears from germany

nID3y.jpg
 

Salsa

Member
oh yeah I never posted this: I got a weird ass issue like a week ago when I was watching a fullscreen youtube video and suddenly the framerate went crazy low and the whole PC starting making a real stressful noise. Even the cursor framerate was fucked up. I looked at argus monitor and everything was super hot and working its ass off during that 5-10 second period, even when it comes to voltage I believe.

I got scared since I had just recently overclocked my cpu to 44x but without manually setting the vcore (cant do that on my mobo)

I lowered to 43x and I havent had problems so far..

in the back of my head I still wonder how risky this could be tho. Here's a CPU-Z screen at idle:

sZzgh.png


the voltage numbers fluctuate between that and say, 1.344 constantly
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
oh yeah I never posted this: I got a weird ass issue like a week ago when I was watching a fullscreen youtube video and suddenly the framerate went crazy low and the whole PC starting making a real stressful noise. Even the cursor framerate was fucked up. I looked at argus monitor and everything was super hot and working its ass off during that 5-10 second period, even when it comes to voltage I believe.

I got scared since I had just recently overclocked my cpu to 44x but without manually setting the vcore (cant do that on my mobo)

I lowered to 43x and I havent had problems so far..

in the back of my head I still wonder how risky this could be tho. Here's a CPU-Z screen at idle:

sZzgh.png


the voltage numbers fluctuate between that and say, 1.344 constantly
That's ok. I'd aim for a max of 1.31V personally if possible. I settled on 4.2Ghz. That's acceptably fast.
 

Salsa

Member
I need some games to really put my new system to test. Suggestions welcome! :p

Metro 2033

so you can realize your upgrade is never enough

also thanks Hazaro. Sadly I cant look at the voltage numbers while gaming since I dont have a multi-monitor setup anymore, but I guess that if the CPU is already running at max clocks the whole time the voltage shouldnt change, right?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Metro 2033

so you can realize your upgrade is never enough

also thanks Hazaro. Sadly I cant look at the voltage numbers while gaming since I dont have a multi-monitor setup anymore, but I guess that if the CPU is already running at max clocks the whole time the voltage shouldnt change, right?
I run superpi or prime95 to see the load voltages on CPU, Shouldn't move around that much.
 
Is this using the 3570k? I have that and a 212+ cooler.

same but its possible my chip lottery draw was not good (meaning you may have gotten a better chip) or i'm overeacting at my temps lol


That's ok. I'd aim for a max of 1.31V personally if possible. I settled on 4.2Ghz. That's acceptably fast.

Whoa i was using less voltage than this. I guess thats the advantage being on 22nm?

oh yeah I never posted this: I got a weird ass issue like a week ago when I was watching a fullscreen youtube video and suddenly the framerate went crazy low and the whole PC starting making a real stressful noise. Even the cursor framerate was fucked up. I looked at argus monitor and everything was super hot and working its ass off during that 5-10 second period, even when it comes to voltage I believe.

I got scared since I had just recently overclocked my cpu to 44x but without manually setting the vcore (cant do that on my mobo)

I lowered to 43x and I havent had problems so far..

in the back of my head I still wonder how risky this could be tho. Here's a CPU-Z screen at idle:

sZzgh.png


the voltage numbers fluctuate between that and say, 1.344 constantly

What temps are you getting on load?
 

Salsa

Member
this is after 5-10mins of a prime95 blend test (ignore the part where I end it)

temps:

wGwda.png


power:

Ntzn1.png



temps are fine. never above 65, and core1 is a cold motherfucker

the power spikes is what I dont get.

And according to CPU-Z the vcore is actually lower when running the 100% usage tests. Im now at 1.344V and during the test it was 1.301 or so
 
120Hz for 2D is totally worth it imo, but it's up to you to have the eye for it and care. The 700D uses the same panel as the 750D (I think) and has amazing colors for a TN panel. Blown away. And it's 120Hz. 3D is not nVidia, it's a 3rd party, but seems ok. I haven't used it yet, don't care very much for 3D.

I ended up going with the Dell UltraSharp U2312HM .

Seemed like a really good buy, and despite it not being 120hz, it has to be better than my current LCD for my headaches.

If not I might send it back and spend the $100 more for the doubled refresh rate.

Edit: Oh and thanks for the reply friend!
 

bro1

Banned
Yeah I'm in California and I know newegg ships from city of industry, ca. I was just looking at amazon one day shipping and newegg next day and wondering if one was more reliable. Amazon does "guarantee" delivery, but I'm sure that doesn't really mean anything. It's 3 dollars cheaper on newegg.
Go amazon. Easier rma
 

Tess3ract

Banned
Okay so far I have a 3570k at 4.2Ghz @ 1.208v and running prime95 I get temps of about 80c with a hyper 212+ and AS5.

I have a shitty case but is that about right? I'll replace the case maybe next week with something that has better airflow.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
this is after 5-10mins of a prime95 blend test (ignore the part where I end it)

temps:

wGwda.png


power:

Ntzn1.png



temps are fine. never above 65, and core1 is a cold motherfucker

the power spikes is what I dont get.

And according to CPU-Z the vcore is actually lower when running the 100% usage tests. Im now at 1.344V and during the test it was 1.301 or so
Vdroop is built in to make sure the CPU doesn't spike around in voltage so usually a loaded CPU under a normal board and setting will use less volts under load.

Small spikes are whatever, computers do things.
Okay so far I have a 3570k at 4.2Ghz @ 1.208v and running prime95 I get temps of about 80c with a hyper 212+ and AS5.

I have a shitty case but is that about right? I'll replace the case maybe next week with something that has better airflow.
Clocks and voltage seems right. You should check that your heatsink is mounted properly and reseat it with new paste if possible. 80C is high.
 

Tess3ract

Banned
I checked my bios and speedstep was on, C1E was not on.

Apparently with this cpu, around 4.2-4.3 you have to start manually adjusting the voltage.

Anyone have a suggested voltage range for 4.5? 4.2 is okay but...
 

derder

Member
Okay so far I have a 3570k at 4.2Ghz @ 1.208v and running prime95 I get temps of about 80c with a hyper 212+ and AS5.

I have a shitty case but is that about right? I'll replace the case maybe next week with something that has better airflow.

I have the ASRock Z77, hyper 212+, and used the mobo's auto-OC to run at 4.4Ghz @ 1.208v @ 60C. (My room is at around 70C)
 

mkenyon

Banned
Impossible to say for sure without knowing the delta temperature (temp of cpu minus ambient), TIM curing time, quality of mount (can change temps by as much as 8 degrees between good and perceived good), and case airflow.

But yeah, that does seem high.
I have the ASRock Z77, hyper 212+, and used the mobo's auto-OC to run at 4.4Ghz @ 1.208v @ 60C. (My room is at around 70C)
SUB AMBIENT TEMPS!?

I kid.
I checked my bios and speedstep was on, C1E was not on.

Apparently with this cpu, around 4.2-4.3 you have to start manually adjusting the voltage.

Anyone have a suggested voltage range for 4.5? 4.2 is okay but...
Every chip and motherboard will require different voltages at different frequencies. Read a guide and start playing. You're not going to hurt anything. MSI has bad power phase control and VRMs though, so you'll probably need a bit more voltage than average assuming average chip lottery.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I checked my bios and speedstep was on, C1E was not on.

Apparently with this cpu, around 4.2-4.3 you have to start manually adjusting the voltage.

Anyone have a suggested voltage range for 4.5? 4.2 is okay but...
Lets get your load temps under 80C before going farther :p
 

Tess3ract

Banned
With MSI at least you don't need to worry about setting offset voltage though, which is one less thing to worry about.

I'm gonna have to look and see what the voltage limits for this cpu is
 

mkenyon

Banned
Is OC Genie providing those volts automatically? It might be that your proc can go higher at those volts, or even require less. This is why things like OC Genie are frowned upon.
With MSI at least you don't need to worry about setting offset voltage though, which is one less thing to worry about.

I'm gonna have to look and see what the voltage limits for this cpu is
Wat?

Offset is required to use speedstep properly. It's what you set to say 'at X frequency, offset the voltage by Y amount from the normal curve'.
 

Tess3ract

Banned
There's no way to turn OC Genie "off" from what I can tell either. There's just a setting for voltage to be auto, but I've googled reports being where 4.3~ is where the MSI boards fail to provide enough voltage for the clock speed.

Offset is required to use speedstep properly. It's what you set to say 'at X frequency, offset the voltage by Y amount from the normal curve'.

As for Offset voltage, that's been abstracted away on MSI boards, thank God, so you don't have to worry about it. "Offset" is what the board always behaves like, and yet it lets you pick a top-end target voltage directly.
 

mkenyon

Banned
As Haz said, you're going to want to remount your heatsink. Applying TIM is only part of it, and you want to be sure you get an even mount more importantly than anything. Did you tighten the four corners very gradually in a cross pattern?
Code:
W    X


Y    Z
Tighten W, Z, Y, X
 
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