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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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When you move your pc parts and motherboard from one case to another and assemble it back, do you have to do a system installation or is everything the way it was?
 
Thats good to know. I currently have a htpc case and thinking of replacing it for a normal case for convenience sake.

Because the pc is 5 meters away from my future gaming monitor I need a wireless keyboard(mechanical preferred) and mouse that will work from that range, I plan on playing BF3 with it. Will they work from that range without losing response time?
 

pkScary

Member
Just want to say that I built my new computer in large part thanks to the guide in this OP, and I am VERY pleased with the results. Honestly, they far exceeded my expectations. You know, when it comes to PC hardware there are so many choices that it can be overwhelming and hard to filter through everything, but the build guide really helped me to narrow down what I should be looking at. Thank you to everyone who made this possible.

btw, in case you're curious:

Thermaltake Commander MS-I Snow Edition ($52)
i7 2700k ($230 at Microcenter)
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO ($36)
Asus P8Z77-V LK ($150 at Newegg)
Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) (For free, bundled with mobo by Newegg)
Samsung 830 SATA III SSD ($70, from the deal I posted in this thread)

$538 USD total, $548 if you include Windows 8 (yeah, I got it for $10 legit from Microsoft, long story but I had a 75% off coupon)

The PSU (a quality 550W) and GPU (Radeon 4850) are from my old comp, and I'm going to replace both of those soon. They probably need to be replaced together anyway - I'm just not sure what I'm going to go with yet.

Thanks again everyone. You made my first computer build a blast!
 

Ledsen

Member
Just want to say that I built my new computer in large part thanks to the guide in this OP, and I am VERY pleased with the results. Honestly, they far exceeded my expectations. You know, when it comes to PC hardware there are so many choices that it can be overwhelming and hard to filter through everything, but the build guide really helped me to narrow down what I should be looking at. Thank you to everyone who made this possible.

btw, in case you're curious:

Thermaltake Commander MS-I Snow Edition ($52)
i7 2700k ($230 at Microcenter)
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO ($36)
Asus P8Z77-V LK ($150 at Newegg)
Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) (For free, bundled with mobo by Newegg)
Samsung 830 SATA III SSD ($70, from the deal I posted in this thread)

$538 USD total, $548 if you include Windows 8 (yeah, I got it for $10 legit from Microsoft, long story but I had a 75% off coupon)

The PSU (a quality 550W) and GPU (Radeon 4850) are from my old comp, and I'm going to replace both of those soon. They probably need to be replaced together anyway - I'm just not sure what I'm going to go with yet.

Thanks again everyone. You made my first computer build a blast!

If you have a good 550w PSU you don't need to replace it at all.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Actually on the i7 versus i5 talk, my HTPC would actually be used for multimedia - as in watching videos (streaming or downloaded) and possibly listening to music. In what tasks specifically would an i7 be preferable?

Anyway, while I'ms till figuring out the wireless keyboard and mouse situation, the last thing I think I need to know about is power supply. I'm guessing that 550w should be enough for the following specs right?

Edit: Oh yeah, RAM. I still don't know the first thing about shopping around for that.
An i5 is overkill if you aren't gaming. You can easily get away with some AMD APU option in an mATX or smaller config. i7 won't help at all.

I'd go for a BP550 since it's modular although there are some 400w modular options now that can do the job.

Samsung 30nm low voltage RAM.
Finally thinking of upgrading my current rig, which was pretty decent for it's time, but is now really starting to show it's age. (Q6600 2.4GHz, GTX 460 1GB, and 4GB DDR2). I'm going to be essentially following the "excellent" build from Hazaro's guide in the OP, aside from the SSD.
The only thing I'm a little reluctant with is the video card. I don't really want to spend more than $250 on one, but I'd want it to be a pretty decent step up from my GTX 460, which is still in excellent condition.
So, should I either hold onto my 460 for the time being, or do you guys have an affordable recommendation that justifies me selling my old GTX 460 for?
A 660Ti should be coming close to the $250 mark after rebates and the 7950 deals around $300 include 3 games to help lessen the blow. Both are great upgrades.
Just want to say that I built my new computer in large part thanks to the guide in this OP, and I am VERY pleased with the results. Honestly, they far exceeded my expectations. You know, when it comes to PC hardware there are so many choices that it can be overwhelming and hard to filter through everything, but the build guide really helped me to narrow down what I should be looking at. Thank you to everyone who made this possible.

btw, in case you're curious:

Thermaltake Commander MS-I Snow Edition ($52)
i7 2700k ($230 at Microcenter)
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO ($36)
Asus P8Z77-V LK ($150 at Newegg)
Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) (For free, bundled with mobo by Newegg)
Samsung 830 SATA III SSD ($70, from the deal I posted in this thread)

$538 USD total, $548 if you include Windows 8 (yeah, I got it for $10 legit from Microsoft, long story but I had a 75% off coupon)

The PSU (a quality 550W) and GPU (Radeon 4850) are from my old comp, and I'm going to replace both of those soon. They probably need to be replaced together anyway - I'm just not sure what I'm going to go with yet.

Thanks again everyone. You made my first computer build a blast!
Shouldn't need to replace a good 550w unit. I ran my computer on my 520W Corsair for a good amount of time.
 

nan0

Member
I'm having more of a hypothetical question. I don't plan on upgrading right now, but I guess I'll need to at least next year.
I've always upgraded selectively and tried to have my system as future-proof as possible, since I can't afford just buying a complete new system every couple of years. Thus, I'm looking for a partial upgrade and need some opinions on what would be the most effective way to do so. I'm not that much into PC gaming anymore, and rather need something with a good price/performance ratio.

My current system looks like this:

Phenom II X4 945 (Deneb, AM3) w/ Freezer 64 Pro
Gigabyte GA-MA69G-S3H (AM2)
Radeon HD4850
4 GiB of RAM (DDR2)
400w PSU (be quiet)

My plan was keeping the CPU and switching to an AM3 Board with DDR3 RAM along with a new GPU (and possible PSU), which should cost me around 330 Euro according to the Falcon Guide from the OT. Is that a viable option? Any new fancy hardware generations to look out/wait for?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Finally thinking of upgrading my current rig, which was pretty decent for it's time, but is now really starting to show it's age. (Q6600 2.4GHz, GTX 460 1GB, and 4GB DDR2). I'm going to be essentially following the "excellent" build from Hazaro's guide in the OP, aside from the SSD.
The only thing I'm a little reluctant with is the video card. I don't really want to spend more than $250 on one, but I'd want it to be a pretty decent step up from my GTX 460, which is still in excellent condition.
So, should I either hold onto my 460 for the time being, or do you guys have an affordable recommendation that justifies me selling my old GTX 460 for?

I'm having more of a hypothetical question. I don't plan on upgrading right now, but I guess I'll need to at least next year.
I've always upgraded selectively and tried to have my system as future-proof as possible, since I can't afford just buying a complete new system every couple of years. Thus, I'm looking for a partial upgrade and need some opinions on what would be the most effective way to do so. I'm not that much into PC gaming anymore, and rather need something with a good price/performance ratio.

My current system looks like this:

Phenom II X4 945 (Deneb, AM3) w/ Freezer 64 Pro
Gigabyte GA-MA69G-S3H (AM2)
Radeon HD4850
4 GiB of RAM (DDR2)
400w PSU (be quiet)

My plan was keeping the CPU and switching to an AM3 Board with DDR3 RAM along with a new GPU (and possible PSU), which should cost me around 330 Euro according to the Falcon Guide from the OT. Is that a viable option? Any new fancy hardware generations to look out/wait for?
You need a rehaul. New CPU/Mobo/RAM/GPU/PSU.

To get the most out of your system NOW just overclock the CPU as high as you can (Swap to a CM 212+ for a heatsink) and drop in a 7850/7870. Will do you well until you can upgrade everything else.

If you aren't upgrading for months come back and see if the next gen of cards is out (Which will drive the prices of the old stock down).
 

mkenyon

Banned
Don't bother with an all new motherboard and RAM unless you are going to get an i5 along with it.

Do videocard now, save for mobo/proc/ram. Haswell might be coming out in March-June 2013, but it's not looking like it's going to be some huge generational leap performance wise. The focus is all on power savings and doing more with less.
 
All my parts came in last week. Everything looks to be working well except the power supply I had to return due to it being DOA. Amazon sent a new one already and I should have it once I return home from work.

Now it is a matter restoring my data and just getting used to the Win8 interface more.
 

Gala

Member
What is the best alternative for a Asus Geforce GTX 670 DirectCU II TOP? It isn't available anywhere anytime soon here in Germany.
 

Recon

Banned
Question for some experts. I replaced my 560Ti's stock cooler with the Arctic Twin Turbo II. I have idle temps of around 41 degrees now, but when I plug my second monitor in, it shoots up to around 81-86. Is this normal? I cant even game with the second monitor plugged in, it overheats and crashes.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Question for some experts. I replaced my 560Ti's stock cooler with the Arctic Twin Turbo II. I have idle temps of around 41 degrees now, but when I plug my second monitor in, it shoots up to around 81-86. Is this normal? I cant even game with the second monitor plugged in, it overheats and crashes.
No, that's really really strange.
That's the one!
 

Prozel

Member
Hmm, shouldn't USB 2.0 devices work when I insert in a USB 3.0? My front USB ports in the Prodigy are 3.0 but my 2.0 gives device/driver error when I insert them.
 

ithorien

Member
Party time. Next 5 hours going to be painful at work.

iOftXb16Kaloj.jpg
 

beje

Banned
Hmm, shouldn't USB 2.0 devices work when I insert in a USB 3.0? My front USB ports in the Prodigy are 3.0 but my 2.0 gives device/driver error when I insert them.

I've used USB 2.0 stuff in the back USB 3.0 ports from my PC and everything works good so there might be something wrong in your side. Just some questions:

- Where are those front 3.0 ports connected? Directly to the mobo? With a long cable to a back 3.0 port as a kind of "extension cord"?

- Have you tested them with an USB 3.0 capable device?

- Have you checked the bios settings just in case? Maybe you have to enable some kind of backwards compatibility mode that is not ON by default or something.

- Have you installed USB 3.0 drivers? They should come with your mobo's installation CD (or the manufacturer website). If Windows automatically installed them, it might be a good idea trying to override the generic ones with the ones from the CD.
 

mkenyon

Banned
So, first weekend after getting my 3x670 rig up and running as well as an extremely potent RoG Matrix 7970, and what do I do?

Play Hotline Miami and War Z all weekend. The first could be run on a laptop, the latter has zero SLI support. Heh.
 
I want to learn/try to build a PC in the near future, but for now it's all too overwhelming.
OP's guide seems wonderful for me, and I may go for a $600-800 range later.
I will keep reading the thread and wait until prices go down.
 

mkenyon

Banned
At this point in the generation, prices are likely to stay where they are until the next video cards launch, which could be as short as a few months, or as far out as six. Processor/motherboard prices will remain constant, even after a new set is launched. Older motherboards might come down a bit, but processors (Intel at least) are stagnant.
 
So, first weekend after getting my 3x670 rig up and running as well as an extremely potent RoG Matrix 7970, and what do I do?

Play Hotline Miami and War Z all weekend. The first could be run on a laptop, the latter has zero SLI support. Heh.

How about Crysis 2?
 
Potentially beyond stupid question here: can I switch out/upgrade my comp's motherboard and CPU without anything "bad" happening? As in, I wouldn't even touch the existing hard drives--I'd just swap out the motherboard and CPU for new parts and reconnect the hard drives and everything else. Is this...ok?
 

Prozel

Member
I've used USB 2.0 stuff in the back USB 3.0 ports from my PC and everything works good so there might be something wrong in your side. Just some questions:

- Where are those front 3.0 ports connected? Directly to the mobo? With a long cable to a back 3.0 port as a kind of "extension cord"?

- Have you tested them with an USB 3.0 capable device?

- Have you checked the bios settings just in case? Maybe you have to enable some kind of backwards compatibility mode that is not ON by default or something.

- Have you installed USB 3.0 drivers? They should come with your mobo's installation CD (or the manufacturer website). If Windows automatically installed them, it might be a good idea trying to override the generic ones with the ones from the CD.

- Yeah, directly to the mobo. Both USB3 cable and also a USB1/2. No extension cords are used.

- Don't actually have any USB3 to test with, I'll to get try to get one to test.

- I installed the ones on the CD from Intel, but I haven't checked for any updates. Will do it now.

Thanks so far!

EDIT: The newest drivers gives me an error:

The setup program failed to install one or more device drivers.

Setup will exit.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Go into device manager and delete the drivers from there. Reboot, reinstall.
Potentially beyond stupid question here: can I switch out/upgrade my comp's motherboard and CPU without anything "bad" happening? As in, I wouldn't even touch the existing hard drives--I'd just swap out the motherboard and CPU for new parts and reconnect the hard drives and everything else. Is this...ok?
If the parts are the same ones, just different physical versions, then no prob. If they are different parts, even within the same chipset type, you will want to reformat.
 
Go into device manager and delete the drivers from there. Reboot, reinstall.

If the parts are the same ones, just different physical versions, then no prob. If they are different parts, even within the same chipset type, you will want to reformat.

ibyp75MUEsWvlO.gif


Dammit. Thanks.
 

kakashi08

Member
What is the best place to get a gaming PC build online. I know its cheaper to build one yourself. But if you wanted to get one from cyberpower, ibuypower, or exotic, ETC.
Which place would you recommend?
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Does having your wireless keyboard and mouse 4-5 meters away from your pc affect your response time?

So much that it will affect how I perform online?


I'd like to know this as well. Since I'm setting up an HTPC in an entertainment room I pretty much have no choice but to sit 10+ feet away from the computer when using it. They don't make keyboards with 15' cords do they?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Dammit. Thanks.
If you do it from USB, it should only take about 30 mins including driver installation.
What is the best place to get a gaming PC build online. I know its cheaper to build one yourself. But if you wanted to get one from cyberpower, ibuypower, or exotic, ETC.
Which place would you recommend?
I say build youself, and if you can't, get an Alienware X51.
So much that it will affect how I perform online?
Absolutely, yes. I don't mean to draw lines in the sand and sound like a snob, but if you're not serious about competitive gaming, it's not something that a lot of people notice or care about. If you are serious and like precision, then it's going to be frustrating.
 
I say build youself, and if you can't, get an Alienware X51.

I've heard about some places were you buy the parts offering a fee to assemble what you bought. Sounds like a really interesting proposition imo.


Also remembered that i didn't even post i picture of my build (before and after) as an appreciation for the great help/advice i got from this thread but GODDAMN do my camera devices suck massive balls.

So i won't be able to post them yet :( plus with that my next step is to get a good digital camera.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Absolutely, yes. I don't mean to draw lines in the sand and sound like a snob, but if you're not serious about competitive gaming, it's not something that a lot of people notice or care about. If you are serious and like precision, then it's going to be frustrating.

So how do I get myself 15+ foot keyboard and mouse cables?
 

nan0

Member
You need a rehaul. New CPU/Mobo/RAM/GPU/PSU.

To get the most out of your system NOW just overclock the CPU as high as you can (Swap to a CM 212+ for a heatsink) and drop in a 7850/7870. Will do you well until you can upgrade everything else.

If you aren't upgrading for months come back and see if the next gen of cards is out (Which will drive the prices of the old stock down).

Don't bother with an all new motherboard and RAM unless you are going to get an i5 along with it.

Do videocard now, save for mobo/proc/ram. Haswell might be coming out in March-June 2013, but it's not looking like it's going to be some huge generational leap performance wise. The focus is all on power savings and doing more with less.

Thanks, I will look into a 7850 then. Is the power consumption significantly higher compared to the 4850?
 
D

Deleted member 22576

Unconfirmed Member
Play Hotline Miami and War Z all weekend. The first could be run on a laptop, the latter has zero SLI support. Heh.

Nice, been playing Hotline Miami all week. Great game, I'm about 2/3rds of the way through.
 

mkenyon

Banned
It's been years since I last ate some freshly picked local fungus, and I don't mean chanterelles. The game is definitely egging me to go back again and have an evening of insanity.
 
If you do it from USB, it should only take about 30 mins including driver installation.

The reinstall itself isn't the problem--I lost my install CDs for some software that I need to use, so I was hoping I could just swap out parts, and finish up my work. I have a friend who can lend me his discs, but not until a week or so. The mobo is a new one (upgrade, not the same chipset), so I don't think that will work.

Ah well--I'll just get the work done on my current build. Thanks!
 

kharma45

Member
Thanks, I will look into a 7850 then. Is the power consumption significantly higher compared to the 4850?

A lot lower, Anandbench only gives the 4870 for comparison but it'll be close enough. According to them you're talking about 50 watts less or so, as well as running a lot cooler.
 
D

Deleted member 22576

Unconfirmed Member
I...don't know why I didn't think of that. Haven't used torrents in forever due to general paranoia, but I'll check it out, thanks.

Torrents are better than they've ever been. Speaking of which is there a premium torrent client for windows? I got waaaay too used to all the beautiful and amazing torrent clients on osx. I'm using the free version of utorrent right now on windows and dont like it. I would definitely pay good money for a well designed and clean app.
 

TheD

The Detective
Having a wireless keyboard and mouse affect response time period.

Well, I would not say that.
My microsoft x8 mouse does not have any noticeable input lag.

Potentially beyond stupid question here: can I switch out/upgrade my comp's motherboard and CPU without anything "bad" happening? As in, I wouldn't even touch the existing hard drives--I'd just swap out the motherboard and CPU for new parts and reconnect the hard drives and everything else. Is this...ok?

Depends, sometimes it can work, some times it does not.

e.g Going from a C2D on an Asus motherboard to an i5 2500K on an Asrock motherboard worked, but going from one ASUS C2D motherboard to an other did not.
 
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