Canis lupus
Member
When you move your pc parts and motherboard from one case to another and assemble it back, do you have to do a system installation or is everything the way it was?
When you move your pc parts and motherboard from one case to another and assemble it back, do you have to do a system installation or is everything the way it was?
When you move your pc parts and motherboard from one case to another and assemble it back, do you have to do a system installation or is everything the way it was?
Just want to say that I built my new computer in large part thanks to the guide in this OP, and I am VERY pleased with the results. Honestly, they far exceeded my expectations. You know, when it comes to PC hardware there are so many choices that it can be overwhelming and hard to filter through everything, but the build guide really helped me to narrow down what I should be looking at. Thank you to everyone who made this possible.
btw, in case you're curious:
Thermaltake Commander MS-I Snow Edition ($52)
i7 2700k ($230 at Microcenter)
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO ($36)
Asus P8Z77-V LK ($150 at Newegg)
Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) (For free, bundled with mobo by Newegg)
Samsung 830 SATA III SSD ($70, from the deal I posted in this thread)
$538 USD total, $548 if you include Windows 8 (yeah, I got it for $10 legit from Microsoft, long story but I had a 75% off coupon)
The PSU (a quality 550W) and GPU (Radeon 4850) are from my old comp, and I'm going to replace both of those soon. They probably need to be replaced together anyway - I'm just not sure what I'm going to go with yet.
Thanks again everyone. You made my first computer build a blast!
An i5 is overkill if you aren't gaming. You can easily get away with some AMD APU option in an mATX or smaller config. i7 won't help at all.Actually on the i7 versus i5 talk, my HTPC would actually be used for multimedia - as in watching videos (streaming or downloaded) and possibly listening to music. In what tasks specifically would an i7 be preferable?
Anyway, while I'ms till figuring out the wireless keyboard and mouse situation, the last thing I think I need to know about is power supply. I'm guessing that 550w should be enough for the following specs right?
Edit: Oh yeah, RAM. I still don't know the first thing about shopping around for that.
A 660Ti should be coming close to the $250 mark after rebates and the 7950 deals around $300 include 3 games to help lessen the blow. Both are great upgrades.Finally thinking of upgrading my current rig, which was pretty decent for it's time, but is now really starting to show it's age. (Q6600 2.4GHz, GTX 460 1GB, and 4GB DDR2). I'm going to be essentially following the "excellent" build from Hazaro's guide in the OP, aside from the SSD.
The only thing I'm a little reluctant with is the video card. I don't really want to spend more than $250 on one, but I'd want it to be a pretty decent step up from my GTX 460, which is still in excellent condition.
So, should I either hold onto my 460 for the time being, or do you guys have an affordable recommendation that justifies me selling my old GTX 460 for?
Shouldn't need to replace a good 550w unit. I ran my computer on my 520W Corsair for a good amount of time.Just want to say that I built my new computer in large part thanks to the guide in this OP, and I am VERY pleased with the results. Honestly, they far exceeded my expectations. You know, when it comes to PC hardware there are so many choices that it can be overwhelming and hard to filter through everything, but the build guide really helped me to narrow down what I should be looking at. Thank you to everyone who made this possible.
btw, in case you're curious:
Thermaltake Commander MS-I Snow Edition ($52)
i7 2700k ($230 at Microcenter)
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO ($36)
Asus P8Z77-V LK ($150 at Newegg)
Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) (For free, bundled with mobo by Newegg)
Samsung 830 SATA III SSD ($70, from the deal I posted in this thread)
$538 USD total, $548 if you include Windows 8 (yeah, I got it for $10 legit from Microsoft, long story but I had a 75% off coupon)
The PSU (a quality 550W) and GPU (Radeon 4850) are from my old comp, and I'm going to replace both of those soon. They probably need to be replaced together anyway - I'm just not sure what I'm going to go with yet.
Thanks again everyone. You made my first computer build a blast!
Finally thinking of upgrading my current rig, which was pretty decent for it's time, but is now really starting to show it's age. (Q6600 2.4GHz, GTX 460 1GB, and 4GB DDR2). I'm going to be essentially following the "excellent" build from Hazaro's guide in the OP, aside from the SSD.
The only thing I'm a little reluctant with is the video card. I don't really want to spend more than $250 on one, but I'd want it to be a pretty decent step up from my GTX 460, which is still in excellent condition.
So, should I either hold onto my 460 for the time being, or do you guys have an affordable recommendation that justifies me selling my old GTX 460 for?
You need a rehaul. New CPU/Mobo/RAM/GPU/PSU.I'm having more of a hypothetical question. I don't plan on upgrading right now, but I guess I'll need to at least next year.
I've always upgraded selectively and tried to have my system as future-proof as possible, since I can't afford just buying a complete new system every couple of years. Thus, I'm looking for a partial upgrade and need some opinions on what would be the most effective way to do so. I'm not that much into PC gaming anymore, and rather need something with a good price/performance ratio.
My current system looks like this:
Phenom II X4 945 (Deneb, AM3) w/ Freezer 64 Pro
Gigabyte GA-MA69G-S3H (AM2)
Radeon HD4850
4 GiB of RAM (DDR2)
400w PSU (be quiet)
My plan was keeping the CPU and switching to an AM3 Board with DDR3 RAM along with a new GPU (and possible PSU), which should cost me around 330 Euro according to the Falcon Guide from the OT. Is that a viable option? Any new fancy hardware generations to look out/wait for?
GigabyteWhat is the best alternative for a Asus Geforce GTX 670 DirectCU II TOP? It isn't available anywhere anytime soon here in Germany.
Gigabyte
No, that's really really strange.Question for some experts. I replaced my 560Ti's stock cooler with the Arctic Twin Turbo II. I have idle temps of around 41 degrees now, but when I plug my second monitor in, it shoots up to around 81-86. Is this normal? I cant even game with the second monitor plugged in, it overheats and crashes.
That's the one!Sorry for the german link, but do you mean this one? http://www1.hardwareversand.de/2048...+2GB+GDDR5,+2x+DVI,+HDMI,+DisplayPort.article
Hmm, shouldn't USB 2.0 devices work when I insert in a USB 3.0? My front USB ports in the Prodigy are 3.0 but my 2.0 gives device/driver error when I insert them.
So, first weekend after getting my 3x670 rig up and running as well as an extremely potent RoG Matrix 7970, and what do I do?
Play Hotline Miami and War Z all weekend. The first could be run on a laptop, the latter has zero SLI support. Heh.
I've used USB 2.0 stuff in the back USB 3.0 ports from my PC and everything works good so there might be something wrong in your side. Just some questions:
- Where are those front 3.0 ports connected? Directly to the mobo? With a long cable to a back 3.0 port as a kind of "extension cord"?
- Have you tested them with an USB 3.0 capable device?
- Have you checked the bios settings just in case? Maybe you have to enable some kind of backwards compatibility mode that is not ON by default or something.
- Have you installed USB 3.0 drivers? They should come with your mobo's installation CD (or the manufacturer website). If Windows automatically installed them, it might be a good idea trying to override the generic ones with the ones from the CD.
If the parts are the same ones, just different physical versions, then no prob. If they are different parts, even within the same chipset type, you will want to reformat.Potentially beyond stupid question here: can I switch out/upgrade my comp's motherboard and CPU without anything "bad" happening? As in, I wouldn't even touch the existing hard drives--I'd just swap out the motherboard and CPU for new parts and reconnect the hard drives and everything else. Is this...ok?
Go into device manager and delete the drivers from there. Reboot, reinstall.
If the parts are the same ones, just different physical versions, then no prob. If they are different parts, even within the same chipset type, you will want to reformat.
Having a wireless keyboard and mouse affect response time period.
Does having your wireless keyboard and mouse 4-5 meters away from your pc affect your response time?
So much that it will affect how I perform online?
If you do it from USB, it should only take about 30 mins including driver installation.Dammit. Thanks.
I say build youself, and if you can't, get an Alienware X51.What is the best place to get a gaming PC build online. I know its cheaper to build one yourself. But if you wanted to get one from cyberpower, ibuypower, or exotic, ETC.
Which place would you recommend?
Absolutely, yes. I don't mean to draw lines in the sand and sound like a snob, but if you're not serious about competitive gaming, it's not something that a lot of people notice or care about. If you are serious and like precision, then it's going to be frustrating.So much that it will affect how I perform online?
I say build youself, and if you can't, get an Alienware X51.
Absolutely, yes. I don't mean to draw lines in the sand and sound like a snob, but if you're not serious about competitive gaming, it's not something that a lot of people notice or care about. If you are serious and like precision, then it's going to be frustrating.
You need a rehaul. New CPU/Mobo/RAM/GPU/PSU.
To get the most out of your system NOW just overclock the CPU as high as you can (Swap to a CM 212+ for a heatsink) and drop in a 7850/7870. Will do you well until you can upgrade everything else.
If you aren't upgrading for months come back and see if the next gen of cards is out (Which will drive the prices of the old stock down).
Don't bother with an all new motherboard and RAM unless you are going to get an i5 along with it.
Do videocard now, save for mobo/proc/ram. Haswell might be coming out in March-June 2013, but it's not looking like it's going to be some huge generational leap performance wise. The focus is all on power savings and doing more with less.
So how do I get myself 15+ foot keyboard and mouse cables?
Play Hotline Miami and War Z all weekend. The first could be run on a laptop, the latter has zero SLI support. Heh.
If you do it from USB, it should only take about 30 mins including driver installation.
No downloadable version?
You can generally find ISO's of most software online.
Thanks, I will look into a 7850 then. Is the power consumption significantly higher compared to the 4850?
I...don't know why I didn't think of that. Haven't used torrents in forever due to general paranoia, but I'll check it out, thanks.
Having a wireless keyboard and mouse affect response time period.
Potentially beyond stupid question here: can I switch out/upgrade my comp's motherboard and CPU without anything "bad" happening? As in, I wouldn't even touch the existing hard drives--I'd just swap out the motherboard and CPU for new parts and reconnect the hard drives and everything else. Is this...ok?