They make those based on speculation and rumors, and essentially serve as a placeholder until more accurate information comes forward. They don't put any credence into it themselves.
Can anyone help me out with this, I'm selling my used parts and I usually sell them to my friend, and he offered 225 euros (almost 300$) for all this, I want to know if that's too low and should I try selling it myself for more. One thing to note, fan on graphics card probably gotta be replaced. I don't mind losing a bit but if it's 50-100e/$ more..
ASUS P5Q Pro LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel.
ASUS EAH4870X2/HTDI/2G Radeon HD 4870 X2 2GB 512-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
COOLER MASTER Real Power Pro1000 RS-A00-EMBA 1000W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9450 Yorkfield 2.66GHz LGA 775 95W Quad-Core Processor BX80569Q9450
G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1000 (PC2 8000) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-8000CL5D-4GBPQ
XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler I5 775 AMD compatible
LevelOne WNC-0500 32bit PCI MIMO Wireless Card
Im not really sure but i would be glad if someone offered me 300$ for that. PC stuff devaluates very quickly.
This is the last thing that I saw about release dates: http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Nvidia-GeForce-GTX-700-Maxwell,21918.html
Sure, but some of it isn't that bad, how much should I proximately value it?
*edit* Realized it was a Q9xxxSure, but some of it isn't that bad, how much should I proximately value it?
This is the last thing that I saw about release dates: http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Nvidia-GeForce-GTX-700-Maxwell,21918.html
I've got $10 that says it's a Titan SE (scaled down, less expensive).
*edit* Realized it was a Q9xxx
$300 sounds fair.
---------------------------------------------------------
My oh my.....
Looks good.
I'm considering upgrading my graphics card to a GTX 690. Can someone please tell me if it will work in my current set-up? My specs are below, but I have a few concerns I'd like alleviated. First is my motherboard. It's a PCI-e 2.0 and the card is a 3.0. A friend of mine said this may be an issue, so I did a google search and found - - - - - this article, - - - - - which said I should be fine, but I figured I'd ask around as well just to be sure since I can post my specs here. He also said, that I might have some trouble with it fitting in my case properly. Unless this GPU is gigantic, I don't think I'll have a problem. Last is my power supply. It's a 750W (min specs for a 690 says 650W) so I assume it should be okay, but I'd like to get others opinion on this before I go any further.
I'm using a 1080p monitor (also below) and my main reason for upgrading is that I'm currently using a 560 Ti and I have to switch to a 720p monitor to get a decent framerate with high settings for my games now. What I'd really like to do is be able to play a game like Crysis 3 with max settings in 1080p w/60 fps without upgrading anything else by my GPU. I really don't want to have to switch my power supply out and I'd prefer to stick with a single graphics card set-up as well. I guess the only other question would be should I wait for the next line of GPUs to come out before upgrading? I would consider holding off if Nvidia is likely to release another dual GPU card in the not too distant future that's PCI-e 2.0 compatible. That may just be wishful thinking though. Anyway, here are my specs:
Samsung 1080p monitor
Intel Core i7 - 2600K CPU
ASUS P8P67 Mobo
Corsair Vengeance DD3 1600 (8 GB)
750W Power Supply
Cooler Master Elite 430 Case
560 Ti GPU
Why not go Titan?
Bumping for a new page.
You can use a PCI-e 3 card on a PCI-e 2.0 board, since PCI-e is fully backwards compatible.
Still you might as well get a titan if you're going to spend that much money on a graphics card. Or go with something more budget conscious like a gtx680 or hd7970, since those cards will also be a massive upgrade from a 560ti. Furthermore if you go with the titan make sure to overclock your CPU, if you haven't done so already, since it will be a big performance bottleneck otherwise.
Looks good.
Thanks for the help. I'm curious, why go with Titan though? The 690 is more powerful correct? It's also the same price and actually in stock.
Goodness gracious. Who would pay that much? I'll take LD PC-V7 or Caselabs SM8 instead thank you.$200 shipping to your door
Get a Titan, they come back in stock fairly regularly.Bumping for a new page.
I just got my computer parts in a whole day earlier than I expected. Sadly, my case is still not for a few days. Very tempted to use my old, ugly case in the mean time because I'm impatient.
Goodness gracious. Who would pay that much? I'll take LD PC-V7 or Caselabs SM8 instead thank you.
That's what I'm saying.Case itself is $350. If you really want one, wait for it to come back in stock at Amazon and use Prime for free shipping
You could at least do an outside test boot to make sure your mobo,cpu,ram,gpu, psu are working.
ha ha, I'd probably do the same.Good point. Although I'm pretty sure I'll just say "fuck it" and just set up my rig in my old case.
Just bought the ASUS VG248QE. This 120Hz stuff better live up to the hype!
I don't think I'll be getting 120 FPS in games with all settings at max with just my single GTX 680, so what's the sweet spot that you guys typically aim for in terms of FPS where going higher doesn't really make much more of a noticeable difference?
Seasonic M12II
That's what I'm saying.
$550 for that when you could have a PC-V7 or SM8 is madness.
Who the heck is charging $200 in shipping?
Ok I'm in the process of putting my build together but I am going to do a test boot first before putting it all in the case. To do this, do I need to install the CPU cooler? I am using the Corsair H60.
If you read the thing, it's a special thing because they're saying they're just getting the first shipment from Hong Kong to their warehouse, and then they'll ship from their warehouse to customers. But for people who can't wait a few extra days, they can pay $200 and have it shipped directly from HK to their house.
That's like an apples and steak comparison. You have yea, a nice effective air cooler in one hand, but in the other hand, you have a super efficient liquid cooling system.So confused with CPU coolers, I've been jumping back and fourth but I was going to go with the Corsair Hydro Series H100i CPU Cooler which is $145, but I've been recommended to go with the Cooler Master Hyper 212.
Why is their a $100 difference? Surely the Corsair one would be more effective, but then again I can only judge by prices since I know nothing about prices.
That's like an apples and steak comparison. You have yea, a nice effective air cooler in one hand, but in the other hand, you have a super efficient liquid cooling system.
Liquid cooling has more parts, a bit more complex, but far more effective.
Justifies the cost difference.
I'm assuming your replacing the bolded product with it? If so than yes, if your planning to overclock or even live in warm climate. Cool cpu is a longer lasting cpu, or capable of over clocking higher.Ohhh okay, got it. Thanks for the response. Might just stick with the H100i.
Is it worth getting the $145 H100i with this build?
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 OC 4GB
Hard Drive: Western Digital WD Black 2TB WD2002FAEX
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liquid CPU Cooler ELC240
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW OEM
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SSD
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
MOBO: MSI Z77 MPOWER Motherboard
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid M850 850W
Does it see it n the Bios? Is this all fresh build, not adding it on after the fact?I am utterly confused and I'm not sure what to do at this point. My computer is not showing my SSD. I've tried connecting it to both types of SATA ports (3.0Gb/6.0Gb). Not only that, but I can't seem to find any documentation about how to fix the issue either.
Mobo: P8 Z77-V LK and SSD: Samsung 840 120GB.
It does read my HDD though, so it can't be the ports on the MOBO.
I'm assuming your replacing the bolded product with it? If so than yes, if your planning to overclock or even live in warm climate. Cool cpu is a longer lasting cpu, or capable of over clocking higher.
I am utterly confused and I'm not sure what to do at this point. My computer is not showing my SSD. I've tried connecting it to both types of SATA ports (3.0Gb/6.0Gb). Not only that, but I can't seem to find any documentation about how to fix the issue either.
Mobo: P8 Z77-V LK and SSD: Samsung 840 120GB.
It does read my HDD though, so it can't be the ports on the MOBO.
First thing, run memtest to test your ram. Everything at stock specs, CPU, RAM, GPU and etc? Are the lockups random or does it happens more often while doing intensive stuff, like gaming, benchmarkings and etc?HELP!
I just upgraded my computer and used a fresh Windows install and now it has random lockups.
I've been using it with an i3+gtx560 without any hassle for a few months. I just upgraded to an i7, gtx670, new RAM, and a wireless card. It has a 700w PSU.
It doesn't slow down or get hot. It'll be running perfectly then suddenly have a complete lockup.
I've tried reseating everything, making sure the fans work, making sure the RAM is reading properly, tried changing the RAM speeds, the hard drive is fine. I don't know what else to do.
Any ideas?
CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116502
RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231568
Wiress: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166021
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130782
MOBO: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157303
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817152042
SDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211603
OLD GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130758
OLD CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116775
OLD RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148194
I am utterly confused and I'm not sure what to do at this point. My computer is not showing my SSD. I've tried connecting it to both types of SATA ports (3.0Gb/6.0Gb). Not only that, but I can't seem to find any documentation about how to fix the issue either.
Mobo: P8 Z77-V LK and SSD: Samsung 840 120GB.
It does read my HDD though, so it can't be the ports on the MOBO.
Don't use the auto tuning for overclock. There are some settings that an overclock ruins in regards to sleep mode. They need to be disabled in BIOS. You can still have sleep mode, but some energy saving modes probably need turned off.Disclaimer: This is why I hate building my own computer. Sigh...
Anyway, I did a very mild overclock of my Core i7-3930k to 4.1GHz. I did it through the ASUS AI Suite Auto Tuning option and just choosing the "Fast" option, not the extreme. Today I tried to resume my computer from sleep and after a few minutes of black screen I had to do a hard power off. When I restarted my computer and got an "Overclock Failed" failure at POST. After a few reboots and restarts it finally worked and is still overclocked, I didn't have to reset BIOS or anything. I'm using this liquid cooling system.
I feel like this is a pretty mild overclock given that I'm using liquid cooling, so I don't think I should be having this problem. And it's not like the CPU or anything else was under load at the time anyway, as the problem happened on a cold boot after resuming from a sleep.
Any ideas?
Not sure if it's the same problem, but on socket 1155, there is a problem with having Internal PLL enable and crashing coming out of resume / hibernate. Try disabling it in your socket 2011 MB in the Bios. Also, it's best to manually overclock. Use the auto OC future to get an estimate what settings you need for X speeds, and then, set it manually yourself.Disclaimer: This is why I hate building my own computer. Sigh...
Anyway, I did a very mild overclock of my Core i7-3930k to 4.1GHz. I did it through the ASUS AI Suite Auto Tuning option and just choosing the "Fast" option, not the extreme. Today I tried to resume my computer from sleep and after a few minutes of black screen I had to do a hard power off. When I restarted my computer and got an "Overclock Failed" failure at POST. After a few reboots and restarts it finally worked and is still overclocked, I didn't have to reset BIOS or anything. I'm using this liquid cooling system.
I feel like this is a pretty mild overclock given that I'm using liquid cooling, so I don't think I should be having this problem. And it's not like the CPU or anything else was under load at the time anyway, as the problem happened on a cold boot after resuming from a sleep.
Any ideas?
Don't use the auto tuning for overclock. There are some settings that an overclock ruins in regards to sleep mode. They need to be disabled in BIOS. You can still have sleep mode, but some energy saving modes probably need turned off.
I find that ultra smoothness is becoming the most important factor when it comes to graphical fidelity. Ultimately, graphics are all trying to create the illusion of motion. While image quality can certainly make it more pretty and lifelike, smooth motion is a paramount factor for me personally.