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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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V

Vinegar Joe

Member
RavenHawk said:
What program are you using when you attempt to overclock your card?
Click to expand...

I've tried both MSI Afterburner and Catalyst.

I should also mention that it seems like the card isn't behaving properly outside of overclocking - it never gets to the 975Mhz stock 'boost' speed regardless of the load (it's never more than 925. which is the 'standard' speed). As far as I can tell the boost speed is the speed that the overclock controls (it's the default in Catalyst overdrive), so for some reason my card never reaches it in the first place.
 
T

Toski

Member
I'm wondering which OS to get between Win7 or 8. Since I've never been a Windows power user, and the new PC will be used mostly for gaming & internet, I'm inclined to go for Win8.
 
R

RavenHawk

Member
Vinegar Joe said:
I've tried both MSI Afterburner and Catalyst.

I should also mention that it seems like the card isn't behaving properly outside of overclocking - it never gets to the 975Mhz stock 'boost' speed regardless of the load (it's never more than 925. which is the 'standard' speed). As far as I can tell the boost speed is the speed that the overclock controls (it's the default in Catalyst overdrive), so for some reason my card never reaches it in the first place.
Click to expand...

Open up Afterburner and run an in-game benchmark of your choice. After it is done, look at Afterburner and you should see a section that is called "Core Clock". Let me know if you see a straight line in the graph, or if there are a lot of peaks and valleys.
 
Irobot82

Irobot82

Member
Dave_6 said:
MSI MPower

Also the power LED on the case isn't working either.
Click to expand...

Also I remember my first post I was using HDMI instead of a DVI cable, try hooking it to a monitor first or using a DVI to HDMI dongle. For some reason it was finnicky that way. If your power LED on the case isn't working check those single + and - connectors. The little tiny bastards, took me a while to get my reset button working. Some mobos have a connector grouper you plug it into then plug that into the mobo. I wish something like that was more standard.

You radiator is upside down you may want to spin it around. If you want I can show you how I modded my case to get that radiator in the front.

cpp_is_king said:
just get Start8 and ModernMix from Stardock. Win8 fixed
Click to expand...

Why does everyone want a start button? I have windows 8 and I have zero use for a start button...



BAM, all my precious at my fingertips. Anything else is pinned to the taskbar.
 
M

mastershake

Member
brentech said:
Ran 3DMark11 for the first time. 3570k @ 4.5Ghz, MSI 660 TF/OC kept at the factory overclock scored a 7013.

Power limit increased to 115%
Upped the core clock by 40mhz and scored P7234.

Now I have to play with the memory clock. And see if I can find something stable there.
Click to expand...

The 720p performance bench that you can run on the free version?
 
B

brentech

Member
Yea, I was using the same test that they use in the 'race your PC' thread.
Was stable in testing, but I got errors out of BF3 twice so I have reset to default for now.

I might need to actually change the voltage to be stable, but I don't know enough about that yet to just do it. Otherwise it did show improved performance while gaming, just gotta get it stable.
 
C

Confusatron

Member
Irobot82 said:
Also I remember my first post I was using HDMI instead of a DVI cable, try hooking it to a monitor first or using a DVI to HDMI dongle. For some reason it was finnicky that way. If your power LED on the case isn't working check those single + and - connectors. The little tiny bastards, took me a while to get my reset button working. Some mobos have a connector grouper you plug it into then plug that into the mobo. I wish something like that was more standard.

You radiator is upside down you may want to spin it around. If you want I can show you how I modded my case to get that radiator in the front.



Why does everyone want a start button? I have windows 8 and I have zero use for a start button...



BAM, all my precious at my fingertips. Anything else is pinned to the taskbar.
Click to expand...

How do you get the category labels on the Start screen?
 
Alexios

Alexios

Cores, shaders and BIOS oh my!
Does Win8 have versions like 7? Home, professional, Ultimate, etc? And is it safe to upgrade from Ultimate 7 to any of 8 (and in general is upgrading all good or leads to issues?).

And could I then install 7 to another PC or will the 8 PC like, use both licenses?
 
B

brentech

Member
I don't really care about a start button so much, but watching videos of basic OS use, I just don't care for how it works in certain aspects. I love the look of it.
 
M

mastershake

Member
brentech said:
I don't really care about a start button so much, but watching videos of basic OS use, I just don't care for how it works in certain aspects. I love the look of it.
Click to expand...

Do you have any results without the CPU o/c'd?

Posted in the race your pc thread but i doubt you'll check that often!
 
P

Pandemic

Member
Ended up going with the Corsair Hydro Series H100i CPU cooler I'm pretty sure, as they didn't have stock of the Corsair Hydro Series H60 SE CPU Cooler. But if they can't fit the H100i, I might just go with the Corsair Hydro Series H80i CPU Cooler.
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 OC 4GB
Hard Drive: Western Digital WD Black 2TB WD2002FAEX
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liquid CPU Cooler ELC240
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW OEM
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SSD
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
MOBO: MSI Z77 MPOWER Motherboard
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid M850 850W

On that note, is the H100i overkill? Or is it alright?
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Pandemic said:
Ended up going with the Corsair Hydro Series H100i CPU cooler I'm pretty sure, as they didn't have stock of the Corsair Hydro Series H60 SE CPU Cooler. But if they can't fit the H100i, I might just go with the Corsair Hydro Series H80i CPU Cooler.
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 OC 4GB
Hard Drive: Western Digital WD Black 2TB WD2002FAEX
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liquid CPU Cooler ELC240
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW OEM
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SSD
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
MOBO: MSI Z77 MPOWER Motherboard
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid M850 850W

On that note, is the H100i overkill? Or is it alright?
Click to expand...
It's alright because it's totally overkill.

I mean, you're definitely paying a lot of money for little benefit, but it *is* the best cooler out there.
 
P

Pandemic

Member
mkenyon said:
It's alright because it's totally overkill.

I mean, you're definitely paying a lot of money for little benefit, but it *is* the best cooler out there.
Click to expand...

Mmm, damnit.. Oh well I guess, it would've been an extra $20-30 or so from the H60/H80i to the H100i which is alright I guess.

Cheers for the help mate.
 
C

cpp_is_king

Member
Based on the advice earlier in the thread I disabled C3 and C6 power states, and adjusted my DRAM timings and voltages based on the manufacturer spec. This allowed me to boot with my RAM at 2400MHz, and also fixed one other minor annoyance, which is that previously my mouse / keyboard were unable to wake my computer from sleep, I had to use the power button.

It didn't fix two different issues though, which are still outstanding:

1) often when resuming from sleep, my mouse and/or keyboard don't work, and I have to unplug them and plug them back in (sometimes a few times) before they receive power and start working.

Actually, I've seen that problem even when booting the system. Like I'll boot and go into the BIOS and my mouse doesn't work, and I have to unplug it and plug it back in.

2) It takes quite a while to resume from sleep. Like from the time the power light on my case goes from flashing to solid, it's a solid 90s - 2 minutes before the computer is back on.

Neither of these problems started until I installed the GTX 680 -- when I was using the HD 7970 I never had either of these issues.

Note that these problems also happen with factory BIOS settings, so it doesn't seem related to the OC per se. One thing I didn't change were the C1E and C7 power states. Any chance that would have an effect on this? Or what else might cause it? I just hope the motherboard or something isn't damaged.

Gonna bump this for a new day in case anyone has some ideas
 
T

The Broken Ska Record

Member
I've been using Windows 8 since January, and I've had no major issues. Getting used to the UI is probably the biggest hurdle, but it's still totally usable.

Not only that but with the SSD, my start time is like 5 seconds.
 
T

Treechopper

Member
Hey PCGaf, I have a friend that's building a PC for the first time. His build is actually pretty close to the Budget build in the OP. He has the ASRock B75M-DGS motherboard but to save a little money he's buying some old RAM that I have. It's Corsair XMS3 1600 MHz, 2GB sticks. Would this work natively and if not is there still a way to make them work?
 
A

AndyBNV

Nvidia
mkenyon, why shouldn't I buy a Corsair 900D? I'm a hair's breath from pulling the trigger on one, but I've seen you and others speak highly of alternatives. What do they do better that would make them a worthy alternative for a top-end 3x Titan system?
 
T

theSlacker

Member
iBboXRM.jpg


What a shame. Looks like it uses the same indented fan mounting placement as the 300r, meaning I will not be able to fit 2 of my favorite 140mm fans in there. Damn you ty-141 and your odd sizing. Worst part about it is that this actually looks like it has proper 140 mounts, but the space is sized to it just exactly fits in 2 standard ones. Don't much like the blockage on the back of the fans either but oh well.

Still good to get some real interior pictures of the case. Don't know why they put so much effort into 2.5" drive bays since you can just as easily tuck a SSD in behind the mb and open up more space.
 
M

memecomplex

Member
AndyBNV said:
mkenyon, why shouldn't I buy a Corsair 900D? I'm a hair's breath from pulling the trigger on one, but I've seen you and others speak highly of alternatives. What do they do better that would make them a worthy alternative for a top-end 3x Titan system?
Click to expand...

Andy I'd check out CaseLabs first before deciding on one. The Corsair looks pretty good but you can't beat the all aluminum construction and the all out flexibility of the CL cases.

On another note, I blew out my CPU fan header, shorted em right out! Can I use a chassis fan header in it's place? Would I run into fan regulating problems when overclocking my CPU? As in it won't adjust the right fan speed for CPU temps?

Thanks
 
A

AndyBNV

Nvidia
memecomplex said:
Andy I'd check out CaseLabs first before deciding on one. The Corsair looks pretty good but you can't beat the all aluminum construction and the all out flexibility of the CL cases.

On another note, I blew out my CPU fan header, shorted em right out! Can I use a chassis fan header in it's place? Would I run into fan regulating problems when overclocking my CPU? As in it won't adjust the right fan speed for CPU temps?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I shudder to think of the shipping costs to Europe :)

RE: your fans, it depends on the motherboard, if it has sensors, etc. If it were me I'd go for it, and simply institute an alarm and automatic shutdown in the BIOS options in case it didn't work.
 
D

DTKT

Member
memecomplex said:
Andy I'd check out CaseLabs first before deciding on one. The Corsair looks pretty good but you can't beat the all aluminum construction and the all out flexibility of the CL cases.

On another note, I blew out my CPU fan header, shorted em right out! Can I use a chassis fan header in it's place? Would I run into fan regulating problems when overclocking my CPU? As in it won't adjust the right fan speed for CPU temps?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I think that a PWM fan requires a 4 pin connector. That's usually the one near the CPU socket. If the others fan connectors are only 3 pin, then I think you can only have them full speed or off. I can't quite remember if you can set the speed in the BIOS.
 
P

Pandemic

Member
So the Corsair Hydro Series H100i CPU cooler didn't fit in the case, so I might just go with the Corsair Hydro Series H80i CPU Cooler.
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 OC 4GB
Hard Drive: Western Digital WD Black 2TB WD2002FAEX
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liquid CPU Cooler ELC240
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW OEM
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SSD
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
MOBO: MSI Z77 MPOWER Motherboard
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid M850 850W

Is the H80i CPU cooler sufficient enough?

Thanks.
 
I

iavi

Member
Pandemic said:
So the Corsair Hydro Series H100i CPU cooler didn't fit in the case, so I might just go with the Corsair Hydro Series H80i CPU Cooler.
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 OC 4GB
Hard Drive: Western Digital WD Black 2TB WD2002FAEX
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liquid CPU Cooler ELC240
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW OEM
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SSD
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
MOBO: MSI Z77 MPOWER Motherboard
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid M850 850W

Is the H80i CPU cooler sufficient enough?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Definitely. I've got my 3570k sits at a stable 4.4 OC with the H80i.

It's a bit expensive for no real extra benefit, though. Water as it is, it's still noisy as hell.
 
P

Pandemic

Member
Alright, so my PC is really close to being completed, and the bloke that's building it said they don't have any stock of the H80i for two weeks.

So, I can either just not get a cooler, and use the one that comes with it (apparently it comes with one or something? Didn't quite understand him), then wait two weeks and order it in, then get it added..

Or.. I can get another CPU cooler if anyone else has suggestions?

Is the.. Corsair Hydro Series H60 SE CPU Cooler any good?
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23_1300&products_id=22310

A quick response would be greatly appreciated as he closes in 30 minutes.

Thanks!
 
C

cpp_is_king

Member
Pandemic said:
Alright, so my PC is really close to being completed, and the bloke that's building it said they don't have any stock of the H80i for two weeks.

So, I can either just not get a cooler, and use the one that comes with it (apparently it comes with one or something? Didn't quite understand him), then wait two weeks and order it in, then get it added..

Or.. I can get another CPU cooler if anyone else has suggestions?

Is the.. Corsair Hydro Series H60 SE CPU Cooler any good?
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23_1300&products_id=22310

A quick response would be greatly appreciated as he closes in 30 minutes.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

All CPUs come with a heatsink and fan combo, just not liquid cooling. Your CPU wouldn't even function otherwise. Unless you're planning to have the guy overclock it for you, you're fine with the standard. Your'e even probably fine with the standard if the guy does overclock it for you, as long as he doesn't overclock it really hard.

I'm nto the best person in the world to recommend which LC system is better, but if you want the H80i or whatever because it's been recommended, I think you're fine waiting unless you need to get some extreme Benchmark results in the next 2 weeks
 
P

Pandemic

Member
cpp_is_king said:
All CPUs come with a heatsink and fan combo, just not liquid cooling. Your CPU wouldn't even function otherwise. Unless you're planning to have the guy overclock it for you, you're fine with the standard. Your'e even probably fine with the standard if the guy does overclock it for you, as long as he doesn't overclock it really hard.

I'm nto the best person in the world to recommend which LC system is better, but if you want the H80i or whatever because it's been recommended, I think you're fine waiting.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, I'll just wait the two weeks then. I doubt I'll overclock it, I don't even know how to overclock yet. :p

Thanks.
 
A

Addnan

Member
Pandemic said:
Hmmm, I'll just wait the two weeks then. I doubt I'll overclock it, I don't even know how to overclock yet. :p

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Any reason you want liquid? 3570K doesn't really benefit from it. I got my 3570K to 4.6 on air, others with liquid can't get it that high. Ivy just hits a wall. Plus if you are not going to OC there really is no need for third party cooler. Although overclocking is so easy you really should do it. Can you not get the Hyper 212 Evo? Its pretty quiet and I have a nice stable OC with it on a 3570K.
 
P

Pandemic

Member
Addnan said:
Any reason you want liquid? 3570K doesn't really benefit from it. I got my 3570K to 4.6 on air, others with liquid can't get it that high. Ivy just hits a wall. Plus if you are not going to OC there really is no need for third party cooler. Although overclocking is so easy you really should do it. Can you not get the Hyper 212 Evo? Its pretty quiet and I have a nice stable OC with it on a 3570K.
Click to expand...

Mmm, I just heard positive things about liquid so I thought that. I haven't overclocked before, but I'm really eager to learn how to and get into the hang of it. Sort of nervous, feels like I'll blow the PC to pieces but I'll see.

I can always change it. I ended up telling him to order the H80i, and I'll use the stock cooler for now. Then he'll add the H80i in 2 weeks for free. Doubt I'll even overclock for the two weeks since I don't know how. Again, I can always change the order if something better recommended pops up.
 
I

iavi

Member
Pandemic said:
Mmm, I just heard positive things about liquid so I thought that. I haven't overclocked before, but I'm really eager to learn how to and get into the hang of it. Sort of nervous, feels like I'll blow the PC to pieces but I'll see.

I can always change it. I ended up telling him to order the H80i, and I'll use the stock cooler for now. Then he'll add the H80i in 2 weeks for free. Doubt I'll even overclock for the two weeks since I don't know how. Again, I can always change the order if something better recommended pops up.
Click to expand...

OCing is literally changing multipliers and sliding sliders. There's a surprising amount of tuning to be had there, but it's easy peasy stuff. Nowhere near as horrific as it sounds.
 
V

Vinegar Joe

Member
RavenHawk said:
Open up Afterburner and run an in-game benchmark of your choice. After it is done, look at Afterburner and you should see a section that is called "Core Clock". Let me know if you see a straight line in the graph, or if there are a lot of peaks and valleys.
Click to expand...

At work at the moment, but will try when I get back. Thanks!
 
P

Pandemic

Member
Done and done, should be finished by tomorrow. Pretty pumped! :D

Does anyone know if it's possible to use Microsoft Word on the new PC, if I've already installed it on my current PC?
 
cripterion

cripterion

Member
I have an issue with SLI.

Prior to adding my 2nd 670, I was basically in cloned display on my setup, having my acter monitor plugged through DVI and my Samsung tv through HDMI. Worked flawlessly for everything (videos, desktop, games).

Now, with the SLI setup, I kept the same config, just enabled the 2nd card and it goes bonkers on some certain games (Guild Wars 2 and Resident Evil 6 for example). It tries to to display the image on both screens, flickers, goes on and off and basically stays black. If I do a quick crtl-alt-suppr I can close the game's process (It's running but not crashed somehow).

And I get a little yellow icon instead of the Nvidia one in the taskbar; can't see the error message.

Why would it do that for certain games? I'm aware when I cloned in the Nvidia settings it told me I would lose performance cloning my display but seems strange when it never took a hit with one GPU and that on some games I see virtually no difference whatsoever (ex: Planetside 2) wether it's cloned display or focused on one screen I get the same frame results.

I also don't like extended display as my monitor is physically to the right of my TV and it would be screen 2, and it's quite annoying, always lose my mouse cursor and just doesn't feel natural with windows appearing on one monitor and the other for no reason.
 
A

AndyBNV

Nvidia
cripterion said:
I have an issue with SLI.

Prior to adding my 2nd 670, I was basically in cloned display on my setup, having my acter monitor plugged through DVI and my Samsung tv through HDMI. Worked flawlessly for everything (videos, desktop, games).

Now, with the SLI setup, I kept the same config, just enabled the 2nd card and it goes bonkers on some certain games (Guild Wars 2 and Resident Evil 6 for example). It tries to to display the image on both screens, flickers, goes on and off and basically stays black. If I do a quick crtl-alt-suppr I can close the game's process (It's running but not crashed somehow).

And I get a little yellow icon instead of the Nvidia one in the taskbar; can't see the error message.

Why would it do that for certain games? I'm aware when I cloned in the Nvidia settings it told me I would lose performance cloning my display but seems strange when it never took a hit with one GPU and that on some games I see virtually no difference whatsoever (ex: Planetside 2) wether it's cloned display or focused on one screen I get the same frame results.

I also don't like extended display as my monitor is physically to the right of my TV and it would be screen 2, and it's quite annoying, always lose my mouse cursor and just doesn't feel natural with windows appearing on one monitor and the other for no reason.
Click to expand...

Create a thread on our forums (https://forums.geforce.com/default/board/50/sli/) with as much detail as possible, then PM me the link and I'll send it on to our customer care team.
 
R

riflen

Member
I'd like to shift my components to a larger case and water cool. I've no experience building a water cooled machine, but I'm not new to PC building.

Current:
Silverstone SG03
Corsair HX850
3570K on stock cooler at stock clock
2 x EVGA GTX 570 SC HD

Looking at:
Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 case
2 x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Radiator 240mm
2 x Aquacomputer aquagraFX for GTX 570 Typ 2 (GF110) G1/4

Space is a concern, so midi tower would be preferred and this case should fit these rads according to reviews.

Any advice in general? I've no clue on the best fans for radiators or which pumps are decent.

This setup would probably be overkill for these parts, but the cooler/quieter the better and I'd like the chance to bump up the 3570K a little. Thanks.
 
B

bro1

Banned
Something is wrong with my GTX 670/i5 3570K. I score fine in 3DMark Fire extreme (3000) but in Unigine Heaven (Tesselation Extreme and 8xAA) I only get 34 FPS for the bench. Can somebody help me understand why and how to trouble shoot it?

I am running the CPU on stock and the GTX is a Windforce and factory OCd.
 
A

AndyBNV

Nvidia
nerdy1 said:
Something is wrong with my GTX 670/i5 3570K. I score fine in 3DMark Fire extreme (3000) but in Unigine Heaven (Tesselation Extreme and 8xAA) I only get 34 FPS for the bench. Can somebody help me understand why and how to trouble shoot it?

I am running the CPU on stock and the GTX is a Windforce and factory OCd.
Click to expand...

You're running 8xMSAA and Extreme Tessellation at an unspecified res with unspecified supporting settings. I'd hazard a guess at that being the 'problem' :)
 
P

Pandemic

Member
Irobot82 said:
Also I remember my first post I was using HDMI instead of a DVI cable, try hooking it to a monitor first or using a DVI to HDMI dongle. For some reason it was finnicky that way. If your power LED on the case isn't working check those single + and - connectors. The little tiny bastards, took me a while to get my reset button working. Some mobos have a connector grouper you plug it into then plug that into the mobo. I wish something like that was more standard.

You radiator is upside down you may want to spin it around. If you want I can show you how I modded my case to get that radiator in the front.



Why does everyone want a start button? I have windows 8 and I have zero use for a start button...



BAM, all my precious at my fingertips. Anything else is pinned to the taskbar.
Click to expand...
Windows 8 actually looks alright. Maybe I should've gone with it rather than windows 7... Hmm.
 
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