• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

Status
Not open for further replies.

lmpaler

Member
Agree on all accounts. It's just so much faster and I do less BS-ing around to get to what I want. Also, the additional FPS is games doesn't hurt!

Agreed. At first I was "WTF is this shit?!", but after a few more minutes of understanding it, I like it. Boots to Metro, click game or Steam, Profit.
 

M3z_

Member
I was wondering if anyone has bought the following case and if they have what their thoughts are on it.

I just this past weekend took my gaming/HTPC system and brought it into the living room. I hate having the case I currently having sit on the ground. I wanted to get this case to place it on my AV stand with all the rest of my components and seems to be a bit taller in height over my receiver.

COOLER MASTER HAF XB RC-902XB-KKN1 Black Steel body

11-119-265-TS

Just to make sure you are aware, while that thing is shaped like a HTPC case, it is not a small from factor(itx/matx). It is still quite large, you can look at videos of it on youtube to see how large. If that doesn't bother you that is fine, just want to make sure you know that it is still quite sizeable and not gonna fit into any traditional entertainment center.
 
Guys I am in the market for a new card and have had enough of not being able to downsample easily on AMD and am coming home to Nvidia. I am selling my two 7870's and looking at buying a 4GB GTX 670 is it worth the extra money for the 2GB more VRAM?

I figured it would help at the higher resolutions I will be multi/supersampling from. Though when I am not doing anything like that I use a 2560x1440 monitor.

I am getting around £300 for my 7870's a normal GTX 670 is £250-£280 and the 4GB is £320 (I have a back up at ebuyer for £350 though). My budget is preferably £350 tops.

I will definitely be SLIing it in future but I am not sure when so for a while I will have only one card.
 
mkenyon, welcome back to the land of the living. Having excluded CaseLabs on the grounds of insane EU shipping costs, are there any other cases I should be looking at before pulling the trigger on a 900D?

Hey Andy how much does it take to ship a CL case to the EU? I'd say don't discount it, I'm working on a Lian Li case for a friend and the all aluminum construction has made me a believer. It's so light and beautiful! My next case is going to be full aluminum for sure. If you're tri-SLI-ing with full WC, you should just go all the way ;-P

I think that a PWM fan requires a 4 pin connector. That's usually the one near the CPU socket. If the others fan connectors are only 3 pin, then I think you can only have them full speed or off. I can't quite remember if you can set the speed in the BIOS.

Thanks for the heads up DTKT and Andy.
 

mkenyon

Banned
There's nothing that indicates the extra memory on a 670 helps at higher resolutions. The card chokes before that extra memory is helpful due to limited bandwidth.

I think a better plan is to get a single 670, and then sell it when the new 7xx series is released with more memory and memory bandwidth. Seems like it's almost an inevitability with PS4 specs being what they are. I have reservations about the current class of cards being a good 2-3 year investment, but am basing that statement purely on speculation and zero hard data. It's just a gut feeling.
 
Switched to an Asrock Z77E-ITX in preparation for my Compact Splash Case.

Got my hands dirty with a manual overclock, got my 3770K up from 4.6Ghz (previously on auto overclock on the Maximus V Gene) to 4.7Ghz stable @1.368V. Chip seems willing to go to 4.8Ghz but I'll wait till I get my watercooling gear and possibly a hammer and vice delidding job before continuing. Dat heatwall.

Also bent some CPU socket pins and rebent them back, shorted out my CPU fan header and had to return a Lian Li case because of factory defect (can ya believe it?) and a malfunctioning Corsair H80i, been a real busy PC building and learning week! Feel like I've ranked up!
 
Just to make sure you are aware, while that thing is shaped like a HTPC case, it is not a small from factor(itx/matx). It is still quite large, you can look at videos of it on youtube to see how large. If that doesn't bother you that is fine, just want to make sure you know that it is still quite sizeable and not gonna fit into any traditional entertainment center.

Thanks, yeah I saw some videos of it online last night and understand that this thing is quite the size. It seems to have some good reviews on several sites that I have looked at.
 

Katyusha

Member
Yes I know but you can not update your drivers so its pretty pointless.

You can update your drivers, you just have to revert to those older drivers to set the custom resolutions.

It is kinda annoying though, and in my experience a res higher than 2720 x 1350 was not achievable. But that might just be my monitor's fault.
 

kennah

Member
Switched to an Asrock Z77E-ITX in preparation for my Compact Splash Case.

Got my hands dirty with a manual overclock, got my 3770K up from 4.6Ghz (previously on auto overclock on the Maximus V Gene) to 4.7Ghz stable @1.368V. Chip seems willing to go to 4.8Ghz but I'll wait till I get my watercooling gear and possibly a hammer and vice delidding job before continuing. Dat heatwall.

Also bent some CPU socket pins and rebent them back, shorted out my CPU fan header and had to return a Lian Li case because of factory defect (can ya believe it?) and a malfunctioning Corsair H80i, been a real busy PC building and learning week! Feel like I've ranked up!

Splashbuddies! I'm thinking of selling my Asus P8Z77-I and getting the Gigabyte board instead so I can hackintosh easily.

Though I'm pretty sure my 2550K will do 5ghz stable under water with the Asus, since I could get it to post, boot and run windows at that speed on air (crashes under any load though). Decisions!

And this is all if I don't put the Splash on hold for a couple months because I need a new MacBook for work.. :(
 
There's nothing that indicates the extra memory on a 670 helps at higher resolutions. The card chokes before that extra memory is helpful due to limited bandwidth.

I think a better plan is to get a single 670, and then sell it when the new 7xx series is released with more memory and memory bandwidth. Seems like it's almost an inevitability with PS4 specs being what they are. I have reservations about the current class of cards being a good 2-3 year investment, but am basing that statement purely on speculation and zero hard data. It's just a gut feeling.

Don't sell yourself short. The knowledge that the next gen is right around the corner, raising the lowest common denominator, is a pretty good factor for making that assumption. Though AMD really needs to step up their game to keep Nvidia and Intel from stagnating or being too big of jerks with pricing.
 
Splashbuddies! I'm thinking of selling my Asus P8Z77-I and getting the Gigabyte board instead so I can hackintosh easily.

Though I'm pretty sure my 2550K will do 5ghz stable under water with the Asus, since I could get it to post, boot and run windows at that speed on air (crashes under any load though). Decisions!

And this is all if I don't put the Splash on hold for a couple months because I need a new MacBook for work.. :(

Hey Splashbuds! :)

Get that Macbook for work now then sell it when you can hackintosh with the Splash? Interesting bit about using the Gigabyte board for that, never knew. Might explore that option one day!
 

Annubis

Member
I got a new PC and I find that my Western Digital VelociRaptor 600 Go 3.5" SATA 6Gb/s is really noisy. I kept my old 7 year-old HDD too and it's actually making less noise.

What worries me is that the noise isn't rotational, sound more like half second blurps that happen in a row, and then nothing for a while (more frequent when the HDD is working)

Anyone seen or heard anything about this? I just finished making the computer and putting the OS & drivers on it. I would be really pissed if the new HD dies on me.
 

kennah

Member
Hey Splashbuds! :)

Get that Macbook for work now then sell it when you can hackintosh with the Splash? Interesting bit about using the Gigabyte board for that, never knew. Might explore that option one day!

Technically you can with just about anything, but the Gigabyte boards - for some reason - don't require special drivers. They just work.
 
I've tried both MSI Afterburner and Catalyst.

I should also mention that it seems like the card isn't behaving properly outside of overclocking - it never gets to the 975Mhz stock 'boost' speed regardless of the load (it's never more than 925. which is the 'standard' speed). As far as I can tell the boost speed is the speed that the overclock controls (it's the default in Catalyst overdrive), so for some reason my card never reaches it in the first place.

Open up Afterburner and run an in-game benchmark of your choice. After it is done, look at Afterburner and you should see a section that is called "Core Clock". Let me know if you see a straight line in the graph, or if there are a lot of peaks and valleys.

OK, so I ran the Bioshock Infinite benchmark (not overclocked) and it flicked to 975 for a split second at the start of the test. It then fluctuated between 501 and 925 for a bit before settling on 925. I ran the Tomb Raider benchmark on max settings and the same thing happened - it only hit 975 for a second in the middle of the test. The rest was 925 or 501. There are peaks and troughs, but it's mostly 925.

I wouldn't be so bothered about this 'turbo boost' nonsense if it wasn't seemingly the only way to overclock the thing! If it isn't faulty, it seems like a daft feature. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
 

Hawk269

Member
Quick Question....

I am going to be removing a Hard Drive from my system, Drive H and replacing it with a newer higher capacity Hard Drive. I already removed all the files from the drive and cleaned it out. Before removing it physically, do I have to do anything within Windows to remove it or can I just take it out and pop in the newer HDD and there wont be issues?
 

brentech

Member
Quick Question....

I am going to be removing a Hard Drive from my system, Drive H and replacing it with a newer higher capacity Hard Drive. I already removed all the files from the drive and cleaned it out. Before removing it physically, do I have to do anything within Windows to remove it or can I just take it out and pop in the newer HDD and there wont be issues?

Is it just a storage drive? If yes then it should be that easy.
 

brentech

Member
Corsairs website appears to be down, atm. =\
Was looking up their fans and the H60i

Yes, it is just for additional Storage. I have the OS on a SSD and just wanted a HDD to the mass storage since I might be doing some video stuff in the near future.

Should be able to just install and get at it.
Go to 'computer management', 'disk management', and get it active before windows will see it in my computer if it is a totally fresh drive.
 

RavenHawk

Member
OK, so I ran the Bioshock Infinite benchmark (not overclocked) and it flicked to 975 for a split second at the start of the test. It then fluctuated between 501 and 925 for a bit before settling on 925. I ran the Tomb Raider benchmark on max settings and the same thing happened - it only hit 975 for a second in the middle of the test. The rest was 925 or 501. There are peaks and troughs, but it's mostly 925.

I wouldn't be so bothered about this 'turbo boost' nonsense if it wasn't seemingly the only way to overclock the thing! If it isn't faulty, it seems like a daft feature. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

Hmm...can you run a test again and take a picture of the core clock graph and post it up?
 

Angry Fork

Member
What video cards under 300$ will be able to handle consumer Oculus Rift (whenever it comes out) to the best of it's ability, without lag, visual issues etc.? Do processors matter for Oculus or it's basically just the video card?
 

Dave_6

Member
Ok I put the RAM in the correct slots, tried it and still wouldn't post. Took the GPU out, plugged the 6-pin into the mobo and then hooked it up to the TV via the mobo HDMI. Voila, it now boots! Got into the BIOS too and checked it out. I don't have the OS yet (will be here tomorrow) so I really can't do anything. Can I update the BIOS without Windows to see if that's why I'm having problems?
 

RavenHawk

Member
No problem: here

The only time it reaches 975 on that image is right at the start of the test.

Definitely not what I was expecting, as the boost cards tend to "throttle" between their two speeds. What resolution are you running?

Edit: I just noticed that you are not getting a core voltage reading...did you attempt to change the values? If so, click reset, then apply, and run the same test again. Before overclocking, I want to make sure we are starting at the default settings so we can tell if the card is working properly.
 

Irobot82

Member
Ok I put the RAM in the correct slots, tried it and still wouldn't post. Took the GPU out, plugged the 6-pin into the mobo and then hooked it up to the TV via the mobo HDMI. Voila, it now boots! Got into the BIOS too and checked it out. I don't have the OS yet (will be here tomorrow) so I really can't do anything. Can I update the BIOS without Windows to see if that's why I'm having problems?

Yeah most modern BIOS have a flash inside them or can download the new bios from inside the bios and install it. I don't think there is anything wrong with your PC at all, some mobo's just don't like to boot certain ways. Once you install windows, reconnect your card, download the driver, shut down, connect to your card, then you should be fine.
 

Hex

Banned
Looking for a motherboard for this build :

COOLER MASTER Storm Stryker SGC-5000W-KWN1 Black and White Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case

Intel Core i7-3770 Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel ...

Mushkin Enhanced Chronos MKNSSDCR240GB 2.5" 240GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GXM

SeaSonic M12II 650 SS-650AM 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Semi-modular Power ...

EVGA SuperClocked+ 03G-P4-3663-KR GeForce GTX 660 Ti 3GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

Western Digital WD Black WD2002FAEX 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive - OEM


I want to spend no more that 170 tops, I am kind of overextending as it is.
I was looking at GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD4H LGA 1155 but have heard that there are better options for the money.
I will not be doing much if any overclocking right away.

Looking to not have to worry about much pc wise for a while.
 

brentech

Member
You guys were saying that if you went with a closed loop water cool on Ivy bridge you'd go with H60 right?
I don't think I'm willing to delid the cpu, even though it reads like that's the best way to handle ivy's heat, but I might replace these sleeve bearing fans I have placed horizontal on top pretty soon and thought maybe I'll do the cooling swap while I'm at it. (was originally going to wait until new line of GPU was introduced and add cpu cooling then, but that could be a while.
 

Dave_6

Member
Yeah most modern BIOS have a flash inside them or can download the new bios from inside the bios and install it. I don't think there is anything wrong with your PC at all, some mobo's just don't like to boot certain ways. Once you install windows, reconnect your card, download the driver, shut down, connect to your card, then you should be fine.

Ok I'll leave it alone for tonight and wait till the OS gets here tomorrow before messing with it any further. Then I will keep my fingers crossed tomorrow night.
 

Varna

Member
Man, is anyone ever going to offer an all-in-one liquid cooling solution for GPUs? I'd love something like the h100 for my 690GTX.
 
2j8OiPm.png


Hate to keep bringing this case up, but gets more more annoyed after waiting around for it. Just saw a corsair rep in another forum mention that them spending money to design and implement the new SSD cage was more important then other aspects people have been complaining about, like the top mesh. Kinda dumbfounded me since I didn't even realize people would care about a specialized SSD mounting cage, when you can just stick them anywhere, even hidden behind the motherboard. Am I wrong? Do people actually want a new mounting system for SSDs? At most I would think the way the bitfenix prodigy does it would be perfect. Little slots that you can just slip them in, but don't add any extra real cost.

Meh I must be wrong, and need to stop hoping for the case I want.
 

kennah

Member
Looking for a motherboard for this build :


Intel Core i7-3770 Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770
I want to spend no more that 170 tops, I am kind of overextending as it is.
I was looking at GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD4H LGA 1155 but have heard that there are better options for the money.
I will not be doing much if any overclocking right away.

Looking to not have to worry about much pc wise for a while.

With that processor you won't be overclocking at all. You need the K version of it.

That kinda cash is in between board classes. Spend 30-50 dollars more to get something amazing. Spend 30-50 less to get something really good.
 

Hex

Banned
With that processor you won't be overclocking at all. You need the K version of it.

That kinda cash is in between board classes. Spend 30-50 dollars more to get something amazing. Spend 30-50 less to get something really good.

ok lets say for 200
 
Definitely not what I was expecting, as the boost cards tend to "throttle" between their two speeds. What resolution are you running?

Edit: I just noticed that you are not getting a core voltage reading...did you attempt to change the values? If so, click reset, then apply, and run the same test again. Before overclocking, I want to make sure we are starting at the default settings so we can tell if the card is working properly.

I'm running at 1920 x 1080.

To be honest I've never had the core voltage available in Afterburner. Not sure why. Those are the default values though, I ran the tests on stock.
 

kennah

Member
ok lets say for 200

Get one of the enthusiast boards in the OP. The MSI MPower is quite good, or you could spend less and get an Asus P8Z77-LK which is still a solid board but a lot cheaper. The OP is there for a reason friend :) Motherboard choice comes down to a lot of personal preference, I know I agonized over my current motherboard for a couple months before choosing (and I still want to change it).
 

Hex

Banned
Get one of the enthusiast boards in the OP. The MSI MPower is quite good, or you could spend less and get an Asus P8Z77-LK which is still a solid board but a lot cheaper. The OP is there for a reason friend :) Motherboard choice comes down to a lot of personal preference, I know I agonized over my current motherboard for a couple months before choosing (and I still want to change it).

I went for one from the op but realized almost too late that it was an ITx , I think the MSI is the winner.
Thanks!
 
Just acquired a free old computer. Not really sure what I'm going to do with it. Thought about turning it into a media center. It has:


  • Q6600
  • 2 Gigs DDR2
  • Radeon 4770

Think that's powerful enough to handle HD files? Was thinking about going full on crazy and ripping ISOs of at least some of my favorite blu-rays. Wasn't sure it'd be able to handle it though. The ram seems so tiny, and sadly there's no empty slots for me to just throw in more. Thoughts?

EDIT: To be a little clearer, I was just going to have a windows install set to boot straight into XBMC.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom