dr3upmushroom
Banned
Yeah, I was thinking 7950.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
- Thread starter Hazaro
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It's pretty much always that price. I got it for that about a month ago.
yn-neko hates a cat
Banned
I just wanted to tell all you rich fucks that I think you're still awesome and thanks for your help last year <3
That's some magical 670 jesus. Is that Bench / Game stable?
I'm actually at stock now since I was trouble shooting, but my day to day OC is very mild.
GTX670 (+72(1215 Boost)/3005/1.175V)
curlycare
Member
Yeah I did numerous Heaven, crysis and 3dmark11 bench-runs and played many hours of Far Cry 3 and Crysis 3 beta. I wasn't expecting so good results when I read that gigabyte cards aren't the best oc'ers.
The default boost clock seems to be 1189 Mhz. Might as well stick to that until Crysis 3 comes out
The GB 670 is a fantastic clocker. Might not match the 'super' cards.Yeah I did numerous Heaven, crysis and 3dmark11 bench-runs and played many hours of Far Cry 3 and Crysis 3 beta. I wasn't expecting so good results when I read that gigabyte cards aren't the best oc'ers.
The default boost clock seems to be 1189 Mhz. Might as well stick to that until Crysis 3 comes out
I double check using CoreTemp and RealTemp together. Under 65C you should be good under artificial load.Hey guys, what are stable temps for 3570K. I have mine running at 4.2GHz. Been running Prime95 for about an hour and its peaking around 52C. I am using Coretemp, how accurate is that?
Why is task manager reporting that it is working at 5.1Ghz?
Because Win 8 is dumb
Just a bit of an update on my high-pitched sound issue.
I turned my PC on this morning to try listening in on the board again to pinpoint where the sound is coming from and it's silent as a mouse now.
When I did my external build yesterday, it made the noise. Then once I completed the internal build and got cracking with installing Windows, the sound wasn't there at all. It only came back after the PC went into standby after sitting idle while I was buying groceries. Then for the rest of the night, no matter how many times I restarted or turned it off, it wouldn't go away.
Now, it's completely gone again. Any ideas why this would happen? I'm a little afraid to keep the computer going, in case whatever is at fault damages my other parts, particularly if it's the PSU or motherboard.
[EDIT] I just ran a benchmark on Heaven for a little while and it stayed silent for a few minutes and now the sound is back and constant even after closing Heaven.
I turned my PC on this morning to try listening in on the board again to pinpoint where the sound is coming from and it's silent as a mouse now.
When I did my external build yesterday, it made the noise. Then once I completed the internal build and got cracking with installing Windows, the sound wasn't there at all. It only came back after the PC went into standby after sitting idle while I was buying groceries. Then for the rest of the night, no matter how many times I restarted or turned it off, it wouldn't go away.
Now, it's completely gone again. Any ideas why this would happen? I'm a little afraid to keep the computer going, in case whatever is at fault damages my other parts, particularly if it's the PSU or motherboard.
[EDIT] I just ran a benchmark on Heaven for a little while and it stayed silent for a few minutes and now the sound is back and constant even after closing Heaven.
high pitched sound is an electrical component on a card, board or inside the PSU vibrating at a very high frequency under certain circumstances
I've luckily never experienced it (totally watercooled and silenced so I would notice it immediately) , until I ran the Windows Experience Index last night and heard a distinct electrical noise coming from my case ... still silent in games though
the only possible fix is to glue down the component to isolate it and stop it from vibrating, not something you can do yourself unfortunately
if you manage to locate the component and think it's excessively loud you can try to exchange it I guess ... not sure how a retailer/manufacturer would react ?
it won't cause any damage though
I've luckily never experienced it (totally watercooled and silenced so I would notice it immediately) , until I ran the Windows Experience Index last night and heard a distinct electrical noise coming from my case ... still silent in games though
the only possible fix is to glue down the component to isolate it and stop it from vibrating, not something you can do yourself unfortunately
if you manage to locate the component and think it's excessively loud you can try to exchange it I guess ... not sure how a retailer/manufacturer would react ?
it won't cause any damage though
Unfortunately, it's proving really difficult to pinpoint what is actually causing it because it's so loud. It's loud enough that it's actually hurting my ears, so I definitely need to do something to sort this out.
I wouldn't mind too much if it was only under intense loads and it was a bit quieter, but it's going non-stop even when nothing at all is happening on the PC.
Does anyone know if a bad capacitor would cause the sound to be constant or only at certain times? This is what is confusing me. It was silent today up until my Heaven bench and now it's been going non-stop for the last hour with nothing but Firefox running.
I wouldn't mind too much if it was only under intense loads and it was a bit quieter, but it's going non-stop even when nothing at all is happening on the PC.
Does anyone know if a bad capacitor would cause the sound to be constant or only at certain times? This is what is confusing me. It was silent today up until my Heaven bench and now it's been going non-stop for the last hour with nothing but Firefox running.
Guys, I might have an issue!
I've got the i5 3570k running at stock speed (will oc after figuring out this), being cooled by a Hyper 212, room temp is around 75F.
RealTemp is showing me a difference of around 10 degrees or more between Core 0 and Core 3, while Core 1 and 2 are somewhere in between:
using prime95's benchmark produced similar results. I reapplied the thermal paste with the same results. Is this normal or is my cooler isn't seated correctly?
I've got the i5 3570k running at stock speed (will oc after figuring out this), being cooled by a Hyper 212, room temp is around 75F.
RealTemp is showing me a difference of around 10 degrees or more between Core 0 and Core 3, while Core 1 and 2 are somewhere in between:
using prime95's benchmark produced similar results. I reapplied the thermal paste with the same results. Is this normal or is my cooler isn't seated correctly?
TimHortons
Member
Guys, I might have an issue!
I've got the i5 3570k running at stock speed (will oc after figuring out this), being cooled by a Hyper 212, room temp is around 75F.
RealTemp is showing me a difference of around 10 degrees or more between Core 0 and Core 3, while Core 1 and 2 are somewhere in between:
using prime95's benchmark produced similar results. I reapplied the thermal paste with the same results. Is this normal or is my cooler isn't seated correctly?
This is pretty normal
Does anyone have the GTX 670 with the 4GB Vram?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130785
Does it make a difference if you will heavily mod your games? Heard the new crysis 3 takes a good chunk of Vram already so im trying to future proof myself here for at least a year or two.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130785
Does it make a difference if you will heavily mod your games? Heard the new crysis 3 takes a good chunk of Vram already so im trying to future proof myself here for at least a year or two.
BF3 Ultra 4xAA at 5760x1080 just barely hits 2GB. Crisis 3 Maxed 5760x1080 is just over 2GB.
Thanks a lot. If crysis 3 already surpasses 2Gbs then i will be buying this. Want to thank Gaf for all the help from this thread's OP and its posts. Was able to get all the parts including monitor, keyboard, mouse, OS, and headset and im still sitting at 1600, exactly where my budget maxes. Would link but im not sure how to link a full cart from newegg.
Guys, I might have an issue!
I've got the i5 3570k running at stock speed (will oc after figuring out this), being cooled by a Hyper 212, room temp is around 75F.
RealTemp is showing me a difference of around 10 degrees or more between Core 0 and Core 3, while Core 1 and 2 are somewhere in between:
using prime95's benchmark produced similar results. I reapplied the thermal paste with the same results. Is this normal or is my cooler isn't seated correctly?
The temperature variation is either a bad mount, improper use of thermal paste, or an inaccurate temperature sensor.
Mid 50s is typical I think for air cool with no OC.
See if you can tweak the voltage, LLC, and turbo ratio to get 75C peak at 4.5 GHz. That's a solid, aggressive, basic OC. Some CPUs and some cheaper motherboards cannot do it reliably, but a mid to high tier Z77 should make 4.4 GHz minimum and reliably.
Dave_6
Member
So I'm thinking about going with a 7970 because of the AMD promotion. Which one would be the preferred and have the best RMA here in the states; Sapphire, Gigabyte, MSI, anyone else?
I was planning on going with a 680 until I saw the news of this promotion yesterday. Hard for me to pass since I'm building my first gaming PC and haven't bought a GPU yet. Bioshock Infinite and Crysis 3 are two games I was going to buy anyways.
I was planning on going with a 680 until I saw the news of this promotion yesterday. Hard for me to pass since I'm building my first gaming PC and haven't bought a GPU yet. Bioshock Infinite and Crysis 3 are two games I was going to buy anyways.
Wrestlemania
Banned
I have a Dell XPS 8500 with the following spec:
Processor: Intel® Core i7-3770 (3.40GHz, 8MB)
2 TB SATA III Hard Drive (7200RPM)
Hard Drive: 256 GB Solid State Mini Card
16 GB Memory (4x4GB) 1600MHz DDR3 Quad Channel
Graphics: 2 GB AMD Radeon HD 7870
8X Blu-ray Disc (BDRE) Rewritable Drive (Blu-Ray, DVD, CD Read & Write)
Got it second hand for about £800, which seemed like a pretty good price.
Leaves me with about £200 of my budget left to spend - is there any upgrades I should consider spending it on or should I just bank it and put it towards a GPU upgrade a bit further down the line? I think the 7870 is going to do me well for the time being (going to be playing at 1080p), but I'd consider swapping that out now if there's something available which will give me a big performance boost and will last me a good while.
Thoughts?
Processor: Intel® Core i7-3770 (3.40GHz, 8MB)
2 TB SATA III Hard Drive (7200RPM)
Hard Drive: 256 GB Solid State Mini Card
16 GB Memory (4x4GB) 1600MHz DDR3 Quad Channel
Graphics: 2 GB AMD Radeon HD 7870
8X Blu-ray Disc (BDRE) Rewritable Drive (Blu-Ray, DVD, CD Read & Write)
Got it second hand for about £800, which seemed like a pretty good price.
Leaves me with about £200 of my budget left to spend - is there any upgrades I should consider spending it on or should I just bank it and put it towards a GPU upgrade a bit further down the line? I think the 7870 is going to do me well for the time being (going to be playing at 1080p), but I'd consider swapping that out now if there's something available which will give me a big performance boost and will last me a good while.
Thoughts?
Screenshot?
It's a little high, but in my opinion perfectly fine.
Do you have an aftermarket heat sync like the 212 +, if so you might try redoing the thermal paste. If your on the stock cooler, I'd say that's to be expected.
Building a brand new PC for the first time. Help, please!
Would love small form factor. Really loving those Fractal Design cases.
The work-related applications (Excel with many calculations, PowerPoint, Skype) are extremely important. I have to have many large files open at once and any crashes slow me down. I really hate losing work!
The hobby-related productive applications (zBrush, Photoshop, Visual Studio, XNA) are nice to haves. Any crashes would just discourage me from using them for my hobby.
I'm a console gamer, so this doesn't need to run big games. So long as it can handle the new SimCity without breaking a sweat I'm happy.
Would love to save money where I can (e.g., using AMD parts instead of Intel), but, again, I'll pay for a stable, fast, quiet system that has legs for years to come.
Anything else I can provide to help you help me?
- Your Current Specs: New build
- Budget: Around $1000 would be great, but willing to pay for a stable, fast, and quiet system. In the US.
- Main Use: Excel (5), HD Streaming (5), 3D/Model work (5), and General Usage (5) (Web, Microsoft Office, 1080p playback) all important, would like them all to run without a hitch.
- Monitor Resolution: New monitor. Start with one, will add another monitor for a dual setup later this year.
- List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:Windows 8, Excel (multiple 25-100MB files at one time, with calculations), PowerPoint, zBrush, Photoshop, Microsoft XNA, Microsoft Visual Studio, Skype, new SimCity game, web browsing...assume many applications running at once, and I want some headroom to upgrade these applications without having to upgrade my system.
- Looking to reuse any parts?: No, everything new
- When will you build?: Within the next 30 days
- Will you be overclocking?: No
Would love small form factor. Really loving those Fractal Design cases.
The work-related applications (Excel with many calculations, PowerPoint, Skype) are extremely important. I have to have many large files open at once and any crashes slow me down. I really hate losing work!
The hobby-related productive applications (zBrush, Photoshop, Visual Studio, XNA) are nice to haves. Any crashes would just discourage me from using them for my hobby.
I'm a console gamer, so this doesn't need to run big games. So long as it can handle the new SimCity without breaking a sweat I'm happy.
Would love to save money where I can (e.g., using AMD parts instead of Intel), but, again, I'll pay for a stable, fast, quiet system that has legs for years to come.
Anything else I can provide to help you help me?
Koroviev
Member
Building a brand new PC for the first time. Help, please!
- Your Current Specs: New build
- Budget: Around $1000 would be great, but willing to pay for a stable, fast, and quiet system. In the US.
- Main Use: Excel (5), HD Streaming (5), 3D/Model work (5), and General Usage (5) (Web, Microsoft Office, 1080p playback) all important, would like them all to run without a hitch..
- Monitor Resolution: New monitor. Start with one, will add another monitor for a dual setup later this year.
- List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:Windows 8, Excel (multiple 25-100MB files at one time, with calculations), PowerPoint, zBrush, Photoshop, Microsoft XNA, Microsoft Visual Studio, Skype, new SimCity game, web browsing...assume many applications running at once, and I want some headroom to upgrade these applications without having to upgrade my system.
- Looking to reuse any parts?: No, everything new
- When will you build?: Within the next 30 days
- Will you be overclocking?: No
Would love small form factor. Really loving those Fractal Design cases.
The work-related applications (Excel with many calculations, PowerPoint, Skype) are extremely important. I have to have many large files open at once and any crashes slow me down. I really hate losing work!
The hobby-related productive applications (zBrush, Photoshop, Visual Studio, XNA) are nice to haves. Any crashes would just discourage me from using them for my hobby.
I'm a console gamer, so this doesn't need to run big games. So long as it can handle the new SimCity without breaking a sweat I'm happy.
Would love to save money where I can (e.g., using AMD parts instead of Intel), but, again, I'll pay for a stable, fast, quiet system that has legs for years to come.
Anything else I can provide to help you help me?
You don't want an AMD processor. They're lousy alternatives to the current set of Intel processors. If you happen to live near a Micro Center or a Frys (which will price match Micro Center), then you can hook yourself up with an i7 3770k for $230, just $10 more than the i5 3570K.
You have 4GB cards right? 5760x1080 is more pixels than 2560x1600...and my VRAM usage was showing 2.8GB. Everything at very high and with 8x msaa...although maybe that huge amount of aa played a role in that
Using these. Bought and installed a few months ago. Noticed quite an upgrade, from using the stock.
http://www.ebuyer.com/176157-arctic-cooling-freezer-7-pro-rev-2-socket-775-1156-1155-1366-ac-frz-7pr2
http://www.ebuyer.com/126410-arctic-silver-5-high-density-polysynthetic-silver-thermal-compound-thermal-paste-3-5gram-as5-3-5
I noticed the max temp is almost hitting 80 now. I think i'm going to pull the overclock back just a little bit.
Koroviev
Member
Other suggestions for a fast, reliable system:
- 8GB low-profile RAM (Samsung recommended!)
- 128/256GB SSD (Crucial M4 or Samsung 840 Pro; Samsung 830 if you can find one) for the OS and programs paired with a 1TB WD Blue HDD for data
- An H77 motherboard...cheaper than a Z77 since you can't overclock with it.
Match those components up with a solid PSU (see OP) and you will have a very fast machine at your disposal.
...And are you sure you aren't interested in gaming with it? If you throw in a 2GB 7850 (~$200), then you will have a very solid gaming PC. Check out the high-res screenshots thread if you're on the fence
Edit: And since you'll be working on this machine, you might want to consider a mechanical keyboard if you don't have one already. Feels so much better to type on and provides excellent feedback!
If you're spending money on a 3570k or a 3770k you really should pay the extra to be able to overclock them. Otherwise I'd agree with this.Other suggestions for a fast, reliable system:
- 8GB low-profile RAM (Samsung recommended!)
- 128/256GB SSD (Crucial M4 or Samsung 840 Pro; Samsung 830 if you can find one) for the OS and programs paired with a 1TB WD Blue HDD for data
- An H77 motherboard...cheaper than a Z77 since you can't overclock with it.
Match those components up with a solid PSU (see OP) and you will have a very fast machine at your disposal.
...And are you sure you aren't interested in gaming with it? If you throw in a 2GB 7850 (~$200), then you will have a very solid gaming PC. Check out the high-res screenshots thread if you're on the fence
Edit: And since you'll be working on this machine, you might want to consider a mechanical keyboard if you don't have one already. Feels so much better to type on and provides excellent feedback!
Koroviev
Member
I haven't overclocked any of my components yet and I do have a 3570K. I'd rather wait until my performance starts to feel lacking. Until then, I don't really see the point. But it will be nice to have the option down the road.
Got all this yesterday at mirco center =]
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Power Supply: Corsair CX 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply
Mouse: Cooler Master CM Storm Sentinel Advance II Wired Laser Mouse
Just need my case- White fractal r4
GPU- 7970
and a monitor
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Power Supply: Corsair CX 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply
Mouse: Cooler Master CM Storm Sentinel Advance II Wired Laser Mouse
Just need my case- White fractal r4
GPU- 7970
and a monitor
Koroviev
Member
Looks great!
Although, waiting for those last two components is going to be a killer!
What is your voltage set at? V. Core?
mikekennyb
Member
Thanks GAF PC thread! Built my first PC yesterday. A couple of weeks ago I had ordered a Dell XPS 8500 refurb (and posted about it in this thread), but ended up cancelling the order and deciding to build one myself. I decided not to get parts to OC, not comfortable with that yet. Perhaps next time. The goal is to get by without upgrading for 3 years.
i5 3570
Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3V
8 GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 RAM
1TB Western Digital Caviar Black HDD
ASUS 12xDVD/DVDRW
PNY GTX 660ti
Antec NEO ECO 620W
Corsair 200R Case
I also picked up a Dell S2340M 1080p IPS monitor that is awesome! Loving this new PC.
Thanks for all of the advice and discussion throughout this thread, I've been checking it everyday for the past two weeks.
i5 3570
Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3V
8 GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 RAM
1TB Western Digital Caviar Black HDD
ASUS 12xDVD/DVDRW
PNY GTX 660ti
Antec NEO ECO 620W
Corsair 200R Case
I also picked up a Dell S2340M 1080p IPS monitor that is awesome! Loving this new PC.
Thanks for all of the advice and discussion throughout this thread, I've been checking it everyday for the past two weeks.
We need pics!
I guess I'll remount it later, then... I'm suspecting I'm putting a bit too much thermal paste too.
thanks! Will report later
Koroviev
Member
mikekennyb
Member
Sorry for the low pic quality, taken from an iPhone 4. Pretty basic looking stuff, but works great!
EDIT: Doh, had one too many [/IMG] brackets
I have a link http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BgpC
The site does not have my mouse for some reason that i picked out but this is it http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826570014
The only thing im not dead set on is the operating system. I would like my new pc to feel brand new and that new interface doesn't bother me at all for windows 8, but the thing that does bother me is the compatibility issues. I really don't want any problems trying to install older games or emulators and having issues getting them to start. Any with windows 8 care to share their opinion? Other then that, if anyone sees anything awkward or something with better quality for around the same price please let me know.
Koroviev
Member
Are you dead set on having 4GB of VRAM? Because for a bit more, you can get a 2GB 680.
I think the VRAM is really persuading me to stay at the 670. Besides, ive heard OC numbers get near 680 levels of performance no? I looked at the comparison benchmarks on the AnandTech site and doesn't seem like a big enough jump to me to drop 2GBs of VRAM. Unless i"m missing something? This PC will be a gigantic upgrade to me as the computer i have now is a shitty walmart one i bought dirt cheap 6 years ago while i was in the service.
Koroviev
Member
But if you get the 680, you will get even more power from overclocking!
Personally, I would go with the 680 unless someone can make an argument for needing more than 2GB of VRAM at 1080p.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...yMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo
This is also an option. Best of both worlds maybe for me? Powerful, 3gbs of VRam, and some free new games to go along with it?
This is also an option. Best of both worlds maybe for me? Powerful, 3gbs of VRam, and some free new games to go along with it?
Koroviev
Member
Looks pretty great to me, but I'd wait for some other people to weigh in first.
Edit: There's also the Gigabyte version, which appears to have some factory OC as well: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...na-_-na-_-na&AID=10440897&PID=3891137&SID=KRB
Oh, and it's only $380 on Amazon! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00752QYLK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Conflict NZ
Member
I have a question about SLI and Nvidia cards. Recently I purchased an EVGA GTX670 and then I won an ASUS GTX670. Can you SLI two cards of the same model from different manufacturers?
Koroviev
Member
Conflict NZ
Member
Thanks for that!
So, one of my Spectre Pro case fans started making a noise as if it was hitting something when it wasn't.
BitFenix Spectre Pro 120mm Fan LED Series
Should I go ahead and replace it or get something different?
I'm tempted to try out the Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition a shot.
Same price as well.
BitFenix Spectre Pro 120mm Fan LED Series
Should I go ahead and replace it or get something different?
I'm tempted to try out the Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition a shot.
Same price as well.
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