-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Holy fucking shit. So I may understand why my H100i temps, and temps in general may be high. Not only have I most likely not installed the backplate correctly as seen here:
Note: Not my motherboard, found it while looking for reasons of why my H100i may not be working correctly.
I think the side that is supposed to let the CPU socket screws open is in the wrong position, not to mention I did not install the extra washers that came with the H100i. So I may suspect that the H100i is not completely flush or properly seated to the CPU itself.
If I am right, and I fix this, which I will be on Tuesday, when I go to pick up the Noctua thermal paste that you guys recommended here, I may see my CPU go 20C cooler. :O
EDIT: My friend made the exact same mistake. He installed the washers and is now getting ~20C cooler. CAN'T WAIT FOR TUESDAY!
Note: Not my motherboard, found it while looking for reasons of why my H100i may not be working correctly.
I think the side that is supposed to let the CPU socket screws open is in the wrong position, not to mention I did not install the extra washers that came with the H100i. So I may suspect that the H100i is not completely flush or properly seated to the CPU itself.
If I am right, and I fix this, which I will be on Tuesday, when I go to pick up the Noctua thermal paste that you guys recommended here, I may see my CPU go 20C cooler. :O
EDIT: My friend made the exact same mistake. He installed the washers and is now getting ~20C cooler. CAN'T WAIT FOR TUESDAY!
Is there a picture of the screws on the other side?Holy fucking shit. So I may understand why my H100i temps, and temps in general may be high. Not only have I most likely not installed the backplate correctly as seen here:
Note: Not my motherboard, found it while looking for reasons of why my H100i may not be working correctly.
I think the side that is supposed to let the CPU socket screws open is in the wrong position, not to mention I did not install the extra washers that came with the H100i. So I may suspect that the H100i is not completely flush or properly seated to the CPU itself.
If I am right, and I fix this, which I will be on Tuesday, when I go to pick up the Noctua thermal paste that you guys recommended here, I may see my CPU go 20C cooler. :O
Do those screws have washers?
Baleoce
Member
Does this seem legit?
http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/1109...ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=65&ff19=0
It's a seller that does refurbished G700's for £35. Rep seems decent enough..
No just on the backplate.
As seen here:
So instead of your backplate looking like this (without the washers) which would give it room to move around:
It will look like this, making your backplate (and cooler as a result) really snug with the CPU:
Friend just did what was said above and here and he is getting ~20C cooler. So I will as well. Hope this helps anyone else with an H100i.
Elaborate?
Also suggestions for the OP should be PM'd. I pretty much read every post, but it's helpful.
Hope so, but Haswell runs stupid hot anywayHoly fucking shit. So I may understand why my H100i temps, and temps in general may be high. Not only have I most likely not installed the backplate correctly as seen here:
Note: Not my motherboard, found it while looking for reasons of why my H100i may not be working correctly.
I think the side that is supposed to let the CPU socket screws open is in the wrong position, not to mention I did not install the extra washers that came with the H100i. So I may suspect that the H100i is not completely flush or properly seated to the CPU itself.
If I am right, and I fix this, which I will be on Tuesday, when I go to pick up the Noctua thermal paste that you guys recommended here, I may see my CPU go 20C cooler. :O
EDIT: My friend made the exact same mistake. He installed the washers and is now getting ~20C cooler. CAN'T WAIT FOR TUESDAY!
Not sure why you would want to downgrade your CPU.
Buy a PCI-E extension cable and fit a full card (7770Ghz / 650Ti Boost) in there somehow
I'm guessing that your motherboard might have the USB 3.0 sleep bug, which in turn may have had them disable sleep mode by default in the BIOS. I'd check for BIOS updates and poke around in the settings somewhere.
IcyRhythms
Member
Elaborate?
Also suggestions for the OP should be PM'd. I pretty much read every post, but it's helpful.
Hope so, but Haswell runs stupid hot anyway
Not sure why you would want to downgrade your CPU.
Buy a PCI-E extension cable and fit a full card (7770Ghz / 650Ti Boost) in there somehow
I'm guessing that your motherboard might have the USB 3.0 sleep bug, which in turn may have had them disable sleep mode by default in the BIOS. I'd check for BIOS updates and poke around in the settings somewhere.
Just talking about building a new machine altogether. Apologies
Oh I know, and I still won't be surprised by the high temps, I'm still glad to see ~20C cooler. Something was wrong, as some stated here previously. I never installed the washers and I didn't place the backplate on correctly, based on the picture above. My buddy also has a 4770k. So I can expect similar results.
No just on the backplate.
As seen here:
So instead of your backplate looking like this (without the washers) which would give it room to move around:
It will look like this, making your backplate (and cooler as a result) really snug with the CPU:
Friend just did what was said above and here and he is getting ~20C cooler. So I will as well. Hope this helps anyone else with an H100i.
Reading the instructions.
The instructions say nothing about putting the washers on the backplate as they are used for mounting the radiator to the casing with the shortest screws.
The standoffs are to be mounted flush with the motherboard as if they are rising from the upper board itself.
If you do it for science and post frame latency graphs for games run at 1080 or 1440p that would be swell.
If you are looking for gaming performance I'd suggest you go Intel.
Anton668
Member
I'm aware of what it is, but would like some elaboration on why it's better before I go off and read 30 pages of OCN and AVS forum posts.
Yeah, I'm looking at that now. I may have to go out and buy some washers, in order to get the backplate more flush with the motherboard itself.
It sucks that I have to go out and buy washers, because the backplate seems to be loose, and it was during my installation - but I thought it was normal. You are right though, those washers look like they are used for the radiator installation. Ugh. Guess I'm going to Home Depot as well.
If you want a custom CPU+GPU loop the parts you'll need are:
CPU block
GPU block
Pump
240mm or 360mm Rad
Atleast 8 to 10 Fittings (barbs or compression) matching the Inner diameter (ID) and/or outer diameter (OD) of the tubing
About 3m of tubing (I'd recommend 3/8"ID 5/8"OD or 1/2"ID 3/4"OD)
Reservoir (can often be integrated with pump or into a drive bay)
Coolant: Premix or Distilled Water (if using distilled water you'll atleast need a biocide in there to kill algae. I use a silver coil, but PT nuke is also good)
2 or 3 120mm fans for on the rad. (Don't buy (cheap) sleeve bearing fans if you're going to mount the radiator horizontally)
For cooling a cpu+gpu you´re going to need a 240mm rad atleast. But if you want to OC both the cpu and gpu I´d go for something bigger like a 360mm, just to give you some headroom. For the thickness I'd say 45mm or 60mm is probably the sweet spot if you can fit it in your case. For the brand I'd recommend alphacool radiators as they make some of the best radiators in terms of performance at a comparatively low price point. But keep in mind that the performance difference between rads of the same size is still quite small.
The price of your average 240 or 360 mm radiator will be about 40 to 70 depending on thickness and brand.
There are many types of good CPU blocks, but If you don't want to spend too much you could look at the EKWB supreme LTX (~34) which seems to be a pretty decent block.
A GPU block is always going to cost about 80 to 100, so you should probably look at some reviews to see what's best for a given GPU. But in general blocks by Aquacomputer, Heatkiller, EKWB and Koolance are pretty good and the performance difference between them is often small. Be sure to check compatibility with the card you're planning to buy though as some GPU vendors like to use non reference designs, so keep that in mind if you're buying a gpu.
For the pump I'd recommend a Laing D5 variant as they offer both very good performance, reliability, and are silent. It will probably cost about 70 to 80. Don't be tempted to cheap out here as a failed pump can cause bad things to happen to your other hardware.
Tubing: I'd recommend getting Feser, durelene or primochill Advance (but definitely not pro). Beware that a lot of other brands of tubing currently have plasticizer problems. 3m will cost around 10 to 25 depending on the brand and size. The performance difference between 3/8"ID and 1/2"ID tubing is very small so you can save some money by going with 3/8"ID.
Reservoir: You can buy a combo reservoir to integrate the pump into or get a seperate tube one. These will often cost between 20 and 50.
Fittings: Get 1/4G threaded stuff as this is the most common type. Barbs are the simplest type of fitting but require tyewraps, herbie clips or hose clamps for properly securing the tube. (about 2 to 3 per fitting) Compression fittings don't require anything else but are more expensive, and some are hard to use while others are not (about 4 to 15 per fitting).
Fans: Scythe GT AP15's are still the best radiator fans (13 a piece), but you can also go with the noiseblocker eloops (16 a piece, but very nice looking) or maybe corsair SP120s (13 a piece).
Coolant: Distilled water is cheap (~0.50/L) and a biocide like a coil or PT nuke costs about 5 to 10 and can be used for a long time. Premix is more expensive and costs about 5/L, but you won't need anything else in there.
I wouldn't recommend colored coolant as it can cause staining which you may not be able to get off of your parts. If you want colors you are better of buying colored tubing.
I think this covers most of it. As you can see it's not going to be cheap, which is something to keep in mind. If you want cheaper you can look at the swiftech H220, which is pre built and can be expanded with a GPU block for example.
Oh and here is a usefull link for info on WC stuff: http://martinsliquidlab.org/
Anton668
Member
prolly just saw the cheap price and "glowing" reviews on the site
koji kabuto
Member
just bought Phobya WaCoolT Benchtable black from aquatuning.us
Thanks to mkenyon for the recommendation
My question is is how to contact aquatuning.us support? kinda difficult to find their email in the that website.
Also any website allows me to chose my shipping address (inside the us) beside my paypal address?
Thanks to mkenyon for the recommendation
My question is is how to contact aquatuning.us support? kinda difficult to find their email in the that website.
Also any website allows me to chose my shipping address (inside the us) beside my paypal address?
I don't understand why you need additional washers. The instructions don't call for them.
Are you planning to push the bracket back with washers so it can sit more flush?
I think your problem is the thermal paste is not making contact with the CPU. How did you use thermal paste and what kind did you use?
Hm. these kinds of problems are better solved with video or in person.
InternHertz
Member
Thanks a lot Mad Max, I'm gonna consider what you said in this and check out that site.
Time for some studying and planning!
theSlacker
Member
Sorry friend. I do not have any experience with refurbished mice. Something else to look into is the newer g700s, which is a newer version of the g700, but I also don't have any experience with that and haven't looked up the changes between the two.
Also the logitech mice have a shape to them that may not fit with your hand, so always good to try to find one at a store to make sure you like it and all the button placements before buying one.
People have been reporting better temps when washers are put on the backplate as shown in my previous posts.
The thermal paste used is the one pre-applied with the H100i.
Also my friend who just contacted me, and also has a 4770k has reported great results by doing just this. So I'm going to try it - it won't hurt.
All right. Just double checking here.
Peace of mind that you're buying from a reputable company and warranty is a good start. I also think they use better quality panels.
Nope. Same rejected A/A- panels from LG. Only the $600 and above from Apple, Dell, Asus and etc. are the better A+ LG panels. The only big plus is the easy warranty replacement since it's locally. Shipping a 27" monitor back to Korea for warranty repairs would cost $270 or more. Not worth it when a new one cost just a little bit more.
PoweredBySoy
Banned
Frosty on air over here, yo's.
Noob question inc. I'm using a corsair 850HX and using the built in gpu pci express cables (6pin, +6pin with the 2pin extension). Is that all I need power wise? I have another pci express power cable that has a 8 pin slot for the PSU and 6pin+2 for the card. Is that fine to use too for the 780 8pin slot?
thanks
thanks
PoweredBySoy
Banned
Ugggggggggggggggggggh, been getting artifacts on my un-oc'd 670 tonight. This thing better not be f'ing dying already.
Isn't there an Nvidia driver problem right now? I'm really not sure and don't know how reliable this site is. Just don't want to see anyone's hardware die.
http://modcrash.com/nvidia-display-driver-damaging-gpus/#.UbUlDJzVrLV
PoweredBySoy
Banned
That's what I'm currently using. I'll switch. Thanks.
AND I was playing BF3 at the time. Christ.
PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/14zUn
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/14zUn/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/14zUn/benchmarks/
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£171.97 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£104.98 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£75.29 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£49.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card (£353.99 @ Aria PC)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Arctic White) ATX Mid Tower Case (£84.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£52.41 @ Dabs)
Total: £893.62
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-09 14:55 BST+0100)
Thanks to your suggestions this is the build I currently have. Do you think these parts are worthy upgrades over:
- CL9 memories
- GTX 660 TI GPU
- Corsair Carbide 200R
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/14zUn/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/14zUn/benchmarks/
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£171.97 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£104.98 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£75.29 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£49.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card (£353.99 @ Aria PC)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Arctic White) ATX Mid Tower Case (£84.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£52.41 @ Dabs)
Total: £893.62
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-09 14:55 BST+0100)
Thanks to your suggestions this is the build I currently have. Do you think these parts are worthy upgrades over:
- CL9 memories
- GTX 660 TI GPU
- Corsair Carbide 200R
Need to pick up a new HDD for media storage purposes. Probably a 2TB. What's my best bet?
EDIT: Looking at a local price list now. What's the difference between a WD Red and WD Green? They don't seem to make WD Blue in 2TB configurations? I think my current WD 1TB that I use for games and storage is a Blue. I intend to move all media to this new 2TB and keep the games installation on the old 1TB Blue. Is this a good idea?
EDIT: Looking at a local price list now. What's the difference between a WD Red and WD Green? They don't seem to make WD Blue in 2TB configurations? I think my current WD 1TB that I use for games and storage is a Blue. I intend to move all media to this new 2TB and keep the games installation on the old 1TB Blue. Is this a good idea?
Wolf Akela
Member
WD Caviar Green
Hi pcGaf , I'm considering to upgrade my current rig . (factoring in E3 outcome)
Firstly , my current rig
i5 2500k stock
8GB DDR
1TB WD
ATi 5850
I'm pretty sure the graphic card is showing it's age , and I desperately need to replace my 7years old Raidmax Scorpio Aluminium chasis . I might allocate $500-$600 budget for upgrade , so I'm looking for graphic card , SSD , and a new casing . I believe my i5 2500k should be fine , it's currently cooled by a CM 212 , so overclocking it should give me more performance headroom .
So now , my upgrade path could be
1.Graphic Card
My preference usually leans on Nvidia , although this 5850 had given me satisfied service over the years . So , I'm thinking along the line of ATi 7590 , or maybe the upcoming Nvidia 760 Ti ? Is 770 Ti worth it considering the performance for its price ?
2. SSD
Not very familiar with SSD tech , but I've installed a Corsair 60GB on my previous company laptop before , and I think SSD is the only way forward . So far , I'm looking for one with 128GB .
3. Case
I've rounded up to 2 options , the Bitfenix Shinobi Window and Corsair Carbide 200r/300r , with the Bitfenix case on higher priority . I'm a sucker for the windowed side panel , and it simply looks better IMO . Anyone had the case for some opinions ?
Firstly , my current rig
i5 2500k stock
8GB DDR
1TB WD
ATi 5850
I'm pretty sure the graphic card is showing it's age , and I desperately need to replace my 7years old Raidmax Scorpio Aluminium chasis . I might allocate $500-$600 budget for upgrade , so I'm looking for graphic card , SSD , and a new casing . I believe my i5 2500k should be fine , it's currently cooled by a CM 212 , so overclocking it should give me more performance headroom .
So now , my upgrade path could be
1.Graphic Card
My preference usually leans on Nvidia , although this 5850 had given me satisfied service over the years . So , I'm thinking along the line of ATi 7590 , or maybe the upcoming Nvidia 760 Ti ? Is 770 Ti worth it considering the performance for its price ?
2. SSD
Not very familiar with SSD tech , but I've installed a Corsair 60GB on my previous company laptop before , and I think SSD is the only way forward . So far , I'm looking for one with 128GB .
3. Case
I've rounded up to 2 options , the Bitfenix Shinobi Window and Corsair Carbide 200r/300r , with the Bitfenix case on higher priority . I'm a sucker for the windowed side panel , and it simply looks better IMO . Anyone had the case for some opinions ?
TheGoddamn
Member
I'm about to buy a PC later today secondhand, from a reputable seller, comprising the following parts:
CPU: i7-3770k
CPU Cooler: CoolerMaster V6GT
GPU: MSI GTX 670/OC
Sound: Creative Titanium Fatality
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD65 Gaming
RAM: G.Skill 16GB Ripjaws 1600
Storage 1: Intel 330 60GB
Storage 2: Intel 330 120GB
Storage 3: Seagate 500GB
PSU: Corsair HX850
Case: Thermaltake Level 10GT
Monitor: LG E2750
All for USD 1409 (a converted price; I am in the Philippines). I have to buy the whole rig-- that's the only way he's selling it. Everything except the case and monitor still have their original packaging and receipts (and therefore warranty).
I went over to his apartment yesterday to give the thing a run and it all seemed to check out. The relatively demanding games I played were Battlefield 3 and Crysis 2. I also played Just Cause 2 and Mirror's Edge.
I'll be going back tonight to finalize the deal. Anything I should keep in mind/be on the lookout for, hardware-wise? This will be my first desktop-- I've been using a mainstream laptop since 2010, which has served me reasonably well in most modern games, but it is getting long in the tooth.
I figure getting an equivalent setup (with a 770 or a 7970) new costs around USD 2052 if I bought it in the States, and USD 2180 if I buy it here, so it does seem worth it.
CPU: i7-3770k
CPU Cooler: CoolerMaster V6GT
GPU: MSI GTX 670/OC
Sound: Creative Titanium Fatality
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD65 Gaming
RAM: G.Skill 16GB Ripjaws 1600
Storage 1: Intel 330 60GB
Storage 2: Intel 330 120GB
Storage 3: Seagate 500GB
PSU: Corsair HX850
Case: Thermaltake Level 10GT
Monitor: LG E2750
All for USD 1409 (a converted price; I am in the Philippines). I have to buy the whole rig-- that's the only way he's selling it. Everything except the case and monitor still have their original packaging and receipts (and therefore warranty).
I went over to his apartment yesterday to give the thing a run and it all seemed to check out. The relatively demanding games I played were Battlefield 3 and Crysis 2. I also played Just Cause 2 and Mirror's Edge.
I'll be going back tonight to finalize the deal. Anything I should keep in mind/be on the lookout for, hardware-wise? This will be my first desktop-- I've been using a mainstream laptop since 2010, which has served me reasonably well in most modern games, but it is getting long in the tooth.
I figure getting an equivalent setup (with a 770 or a 7970) new costs around USD 2052 if I bought it in the States, and USD 2180 if I buy it here, so it does seem worth it.
MrBambinoDent
Member
Noob warning:
So my laptop doesn't have USB 3.0 but it has one if those express card slots and I'm thinking about getting a USB 3.0 card, will this work? Any suggestions?
Appreciated.
So my laptop doesn't have USB 3.0 but it has one if those express card slots and I'm thinking about getting a USB 3.0 card, will this work? Any suggestions?
Appreciated.
I got the shinobi for my brother and I love it. It was pretty easy to move everything over from his old case to the new one. The top and front panels take some force to pull off if you want to put more fans in it but other than that its pretty solid case. Definitely recommend it.
ShinobiFist
Banned
Pricing and its made in the US, so no hassle dealing with 3rd parties to get a Korean IPS monitor. If you're asking on quality, you can't go wrong with an IPS panel. The IQ is fucking nuts. And I just got one from Dell, and I'm blown away by it. And I didn't notice any lag while testing my fighting games.
After putting a 600w PSU and EVGA 670 4gb in my rig last night, I think I'm done upgrading for a decent amount of time. Loaded up Crysis 3 and was pretty happy with the results. Messed around with Precision X and was also pleased.
Is it worth it to overclock the CPU? I wouldn't want to push it very hard, but if it gives me a decent performance boost without much risk I'd try it out.
Is it worth it to overclock the CPU? I wouldn't want to push it very hard, but if it gives me a decent performance boost without much risk I'd try it out.
Guys, just a quick question.
What should I look into if my FX-4130 CPU is showing as running at 2.81 instead of 3.8Ghz? I'm using a Gigabyte motherboard and it allows me to increase the clock multiplier to get into 3800mhz, but is this recommended or should I adjust something else?
What should I look into if my FX-4130 CPU is showing as running at 2.81 instead of 3.8Ghz? I'm using a Gigabyte motherboard and it allows me to increase the clock multiplier to get into 3800mhz, but is this recommended or should I adjust something else?
DamnTheMan
Banned
Not on Win8 but I that's mostly because I don't own it, if win8 still has the commandline available you can run the commandline as admin and type in powercfg -requests to see a list of PID's (process ID's keeping the system from shutting down)
I have personally found steam to be buggy sometimes and it has been prone to causing my system to stay awake for no apparent reason. Other than that try the usual disabling of usb devices that can cause the system to wake up. (although in most cases the system still goes to sleep in cases of a defective usb device)
Hi!
Got a hankering for getting a gaming desktop for the first time in my life sooner or later now (within the next 6 months some time).
Your Current Specs: None, as I do not own a desktop yet.
Budget: 700€ (6500skr)
Main uses: Gaming, Emulation and general usage.
Monitor resolution: Nothing higher than 1080p
Specific games or applications that most run well: Civilization V + expansions, Dark Souls, most games in Dolphin and PCSX2
Will you overclock: Not unless I have too. That would be if Dolphin or PCSX2 demanded it for OK performance.
Found a following build-your-own deal (a set of component that's meant to work good with each other) at a reliable Swedish reseller:
Motherboard: MSI 970A-G46 SLI
Harddrive: 2TB Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm SATA 6Gbit/s
CPU: AMD FX-6300 6C 3.5GHz Black Edition
GPU: XFX Radeon HD7950 3072MB
Memory: Corsair 8GB (2x4096MB) CL9 1600Mhz VENGEANCE
Power supply: XFX Core Edition 550W 80+ Bronze
Computer case: BitFenix Outlaw
It would cost roughly 690€ (6500skr) which I would guess is a decent price in my country. My main areas would be Civilization V and emulators. I've heard that FX-6300 is decent in Civ nowadays and I wouldn't be able to get more than the cheapest i3 in the same price range som a really good CPU isn't an alternative.
Anyone got ideas. I'm in no real rush, but would guess that the Nvidia 7xx series will be mostly out of my price range atm and I haven't heard much about new CPU:s and GPU:s from AMD.
Grateful for any advices on this
Got a hankering for getting a gaming desktop for the first time in my life sooner or later now (within the next 6 months some time).
Your Current Specs: None, as I do not own a desktop yet.
Budget: 700€ (6500skr)
Main uses: Gaming, Emulation and general usage.
Monitor resolution: Nothing higher than 1080p
Specific games or applications that most run well: Civilization V + expansions, Dark Souls, most games in Dolphin and PCSX2
Will you overclock: Not unless I have too. That would be if Dolphin or PCSX2 demanded it for OK performance.
Found a following build-your-own deal (a set of component that's meant to work good with each other) at a reliable Swedish reseller:
Motherboard: MSI 970A-G46 SLI
Harddrive: 2TB Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm SATA 6Gbit/s
CPU: AMD FX-6300 6C 3.5GHz Black Edition
GPU: XFX Radeon HD7950 3072MB
Memory: Corsair 8GB (2x4096MB) CL9 1600Mhz VENGEANCE
Power supply: XFX Core Edition 550W 80+ Bronze
Computer case: BitFenix Outlaw
It would cost roughly 690€ (6500skr) which I would guess is a decent price in my country. My main areas would be Civilization V and emulators. I've heard that FX-6300 is decent in Civ nowadays and I wouldn't be able to get more than the cheapest i3 in the same price range som a really good CPU isn't an alternative.
Anyone got ideas. I'm in no real rush, but would guess that the Nvidia 7xx series will be mostly out of my price range atm and I haven't heard much about new CPU:s and GPU:s from AMD.
Grateful for any advices on this
I'm set for this case then , really like the look myself . Thanks
How about GPU , which has the best price/performance for these
GTX 770 , GTX 760 Ti (on paper) , GTX 670 and AMD 7950/7970 ?
@Kamaji
If you are going for Emulation , wouldn't Intel CPU the better choice/faster ? I'm quite outdated in AMD CPUs knowledge though .
Yes, it will work. Depending on when your laptop was built, that is what ExpressCard version was used, you might not get full USB3 speed.
But if you have a ExpressCard 2.0 slot (for example like on my Lenovo X220), USB3 is guaranteed to work.
Polioliolio
Member
Yikes! I just noticed some pretty crazy texture errors in Nazi Zombie Army, and I'm on that same driver.
Is it really recommended that I remove this driver? Can't I just install a previous version over top of it, or even beta drivers?
...
I simply rolled back to 314.22 in device manager. I'll wait for a new update I suppose.
What's the deal with the complicated method posted at Modcrash?
1) 760Ti should just be an updated GTX670. More info on it should be out in a week or two if you want to wait. Can't go wrong with a 660Ti or 7950. Value after those diminishes.
2) Samsuing 840 Pro 128GB or 840 240GB.
3) I like the Shinobi very much. Haven't built with the 200/300R yet.
Those are all good parts. I'd run memtest / OCCT for a few minutes, check SSD Health, HDD SMART.
If a new rig is that much, might as well go that route.
Absolutely. Should bring up your minimum frames.
If you are serious about emulation and Civ you need an overclocked Intel chip. Differences are too large. Buy a used 2500K/3570K to save ~$70.Hi!
Got a hankering for getting a gaming desktop for the first time in my life sooner or later now (within the next 6 months some time).
Your Current Specs: None, as I do not own a desktop yet.
Budget: 700 (6500skr)
Main uses: Gaming, Emulation and general usage.
Monitor resolution: Nothing higher than 1080p
Specific games or applications that most run well: Civilization V + expansions, Dark Souls, most games in Dolphin and PCSX2
Will you overclock: Not unless I have too. That would be if Dolphin or PCSX2 demanded it for OK performance.
Found a following build-your-own deal (a set of component that's meant to work good with each other) at a reliable Swedish reseller:
Motherboard: MSI 970A-G46 SLI
Harddrive: 2TB Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm SATA 6Gbit/s
CPU: AMD FX-6300 6C 3.5GHz Black Edition
GPU: XFX Radeon HD7950 3072MB
Memory: Corsair 8GB (2x4096MB) CL9 1600Mhz VENGEANCE
Power supply: XFX Core Edition 550W 80+ Bronze
Computer case: BitFenix Outlaw
It would cost roughly 690 (6500skr) which I would guess is a decent price in my country. My main areas would be Civilization V and emulators. I've heard that FX-6300 is decent in Civ nowadays and I wouldn't be able to get more than the cheapest i3 in the same price range som a really good CPU isn't an alternative.
Anyone got ideas. I'm in no real rush, but would guess that the Nvidia 7xx series will be mostly out of my price range atm and I haven't heard much about new CPU:s and GPU:s from AMD.
Grateful for any advices on this
Drop GPU to a 7870XT if you can find them in stock where you are.
CreepingFear
Member
I need a new HDD for some pr0n and videos. I can get http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148834 for $80 with promo code. Any objections?
Hmm. The price difference between 7870XT and 7950 is at the very most 20$
I would definitely have to scale back to GTX 650 TI or at the most a HD 7850 to acommodate even a used I5-2500K instead of the FX-6300 so i'll have to think about it. I'm not sure how to define serious though. I'd like to play 8-10 player games with high settings in Civ 5 and to emulate PS2 and GC/Wii games in HD resolutions so that would be what i'm looking for.
Might be able to wait for a really good deal if a overclocked i5 is necessary for it.
Thanks for the input!
The 7850 and i5 2500k combo is definitely enough for PS2/Dolphin emulation . Just make sure you are going for a good aftermarket cooler for the 2500k and let it fly . Not sure about Civ5 though , I'm pretty sure it is more than enough also .
- Status