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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Changing a couple of settings in the nvidia CP fixed by stutter in BF3. Now let's overclock!

I'm using EVGA Precision X to OC the card and testing via Unigine Valley Extreme HD preset.

I changed the voltage to +13
Did a core offset of +96
Did a mem offset of +96

My card is an ACX Superclocked.

What's a safe voltage to push these cards? My max is now around 1224 (with boost) in-game.

Should I leave the mem alone and just focus on the core?
 

Tomodachi

Member
Sorry for bringing this up again. Anyone?

Back from my summer holiday, I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on a new cpu/mobo/ram set for my pc. I'm glad I waited a few weeks, the Z77A-G45 is finally in stock on Amazon Italy.

I was about to finalize the order when I noticed the Z77A-G41 is much cheaper than the G45 though, 103€ vs 75€, and browsing through the MSI website I figured the only difference between them is in the number of internal and external ports. I don't plan on buying multiple GPUs so I don't really need the extra PCI-E port and stuff and it would be nice to save those extra 30€. Is there something I'm missing that really differentiates the two mobos or can I safely buy the G41 and be done with my upgrade?

Thanks.
 
Start building!

Just need the GPU to arrive, its been overdue at scan since the 23rd August though. Got a fortnight off starting from next Saturday, so I really would like it to arrive by then, but its looking a bit unlikely :(

Will add the SSD and reinstall whenever I can. Any word yet on whether that Amazon offer was legit?
 

Addnan

Member
Just need the GPU to arrive, its been overdue at scan since the 23rd August though. Got a fortnight off starting from next Saturday, so I really would like it to arrive by then, but its looking a bit unlikely :(

Will add the SSD and reinstall whenever I can. Any word yet on whether that Amazon offer was legit?

No idea, I know they are not taking orders anymore. You can start putting things together if you want, run it from the onboard video.

If you went for that 670 like I told you, you could have got Splinter Cell and Batman Arkham Origin AND have had the card by now :p
 
No idea, I know they are not taking orders anymore. You can start putting things together if you want, run it from the onboard video.

If you went for that 670 like I told you, you could have got Splinter Cell and Batman Arkham Origin AND have had the card by now :p

But the possibility of BF4 and WatchDogs :(

:p

Are Amazon generally forced to honour those prices, or can they cancel the orders if they were not supposed to be that cheap?

Can anyone attest to the reliability of the DS3 drivers?
 

Addnan

Member
Haswell i3 and Pentium launched. Haven't seen it posted. Can't find any reviews really.

But the possibility of BF4 and WatchDogs :(

:p

Are Amazon generally forced to honour those prices, or can they cancel the orders if they were not supposed to be that cheap?

Can anyone attest to the reliability of the DS3 drivers?

They can cancel, contract not made until payment taken.

You won't be getting Watch Dogs. That's an Nvidia partnered game ;)
 

RubenCordeiro

Neo Member
Worth noting that I didn;t choose any of the components myself, kharma chose the obvious ones and we talked over the ones which I had options for. I don't know what I'm doing :p


Just to alleviate (or compound) my fears, is there feasibly anything I could do wrong that would break multiple components with the same mistake?

Nothing in particular, the only thing that comes to my mind: ground youself everytime you touch the components, don't assemble the components in a conductive material and don't forget to put the motherboard mounting screws in the case.

Have fun :)
 
Nothing in particular, the only thing that comes to my mind: ground youself everytime you touch the components, don't assemble the components in a conductive material and don't forget to put the motherboard mounting screws in the case.

Have fun :)

Damn, never thought about electrocuting myself.

Gonna poke that power button with a 12-foot stick first time round :p
 
What he is talking about is static discharge into the components causing them damage, not electrocution.

I see.

So some of the componenets have a kind of residual charge which will transfer to my hands, and then to the next component I touch, unless I ground myself (rubber soles and all that) either throughout, or inbetween components?

Am I good to go as long as I wear a pair of trainers (sneakers for the Americans) then? :p
 

Addnan

Member
I see.

So some of the componenets have a kind of residual charge which will transfer to my hands, and then to the next component I touch, unless I ground myself (rubber soles and all that) either throughout, or inbetween components?

Am I good to go as long as I wear a pair of trainers (sneakers for the Americans) then? :p

There is very little risk of damaging parts with static, especially in the UK. Not a very dry place. Just make sure to touch the inside of your case often, discharge any static that could build up.
 
There is very little risk of damaging parts with static, especially in the UK. Not a very dry place. Just make sure to touch the inside of your case often, discharge any static that could build up.

I'll have to keep that in mind, I'm petrified of even the smallest electric shock :p

Really basic question, but do you assemble the parts and then slide the bulk into the case, or do you do it all inside the case from the beginning?
 

Addnan

Member
I'll have to keep that in mind, I'm petrified of even the smallest electric shock :p

Really basic question, but do you assemble the parts and then slide the bulk into the case, or do you do it all inside the case from the beginning?

CPU, heatsink and RAM installed onto motherboard outside of case.

Install motherboard standoffs into the case. Make sure they are all lined up perfectly with the holes on the motherboard. No extra ones hitting the back of the motherboard. Then install motherboard into case.
 

maneil99

Member
CPU, heatsink and RAM installed onto motherboard outside of case.

Install motherboard standoffs into the case. Make sure they are all lined up perfectly with the holes on the motherboard. No extra ones hitting the back of the motherboard. Then install motherboard into case.

If you are using an aftermarket heatsink mount the bracket first outside and put the actual heatsink on inside
 

Tonezorz

Member
Sorry if answered, tried search and only had a few results, but would anyone recommend AGAINST the Z77MA Micro ATX version of the MSI board when comparing to the regular ATX version? Will only be running 1 video card, and the i3 3220.

Is there any real difference?
 
Yeah, for the CPU.

I didn't install my Hyper 212 inside the case. Would be annoying as hell. Did it outside, then stuck the fan on the heatsink inside the case.

I thought the cooler cooled down the entirety of the PC. Or does it indeed do that, but the CPU is the focus?



Do monitors still have problems in rooms lit by sunlight?
 

Shaldome

Member
Sorry for bringing this up again. Anyone?

I don't know if you wrote it already before, but what do you intend to do with it?
If you just want to build a rig with no overclocking or fancy in mind it may very well be sufficient.
Although the fist review I opened from Hardocp is not very assuring.
Anything speaking against the P45 mentioned in the budget build in the OP?
 
Sorry if answered, tried search and only had a few results, but would anyone recommend AGAINST the Z77MA Micro ATX version of the MSI board when comparing to the regular ATX version? Will only be running 1 video card, and the i3 3220.

Is there any real difference?

Well the board will be smaller and more crowded with all the sata connections etc.

But apart from that not much.


If you want to do it for ability to build system in smaller case go for it. If you want to do it to save few bucks I'd advice against as you never know when your conception changes.

Back from my summer holiday, I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on a new cpu/mobo/ram set for my pc. I'm glad I waited a few weeks, the Z77A-G45 is finally in stock on Amazon Italy.

I was about to finalize the order when I noticed the Z77A-G41 is much cheaper than the G45 though, 103€ vs 75€, and browsing through the MSI website I figured the only difference between them is in the number of internal and external ports. I don't plan on buying multiple GPUs so I don't really need the extra PCI-E port and stuff and it would be nice to save those extra 30€. Is there something I'm missing that really differentiates the two mobos or can I safely buy the G41 and be done with my upgrade?

Thanks.

Check G43 it should be much closer to G45 quality with mostly missing multi gpu support.
 

Tomodachi

Member
I don't know if you wrote it already before, but what do you intend to do with it?
If you just want to build a rig with no overclocking or fancy in mind it may very well be sufficient.
Although the fist review I opened from Hardocp is not very assuring.
Anything speaking against the P45 mentioned in the budget build in the OP?
I'll get a 3570K with the motherboard so I'll do a bit of overclocking, I need a Z77 as far as I can tell. The review was very useful, thanks, it looks like the extra money for the G45 is definitely worth it then.
Check G43 it should be much closer to G45 quality with mostly missing multi gpu support.
Unfortunately the G43 is not available on Amazon Italy. I guess I'll just spend a little more and stay safe with the G45. Thank you guys.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
The only bad thing about the R4 is the red ring of death that stares at me all night. Seriously, why red?

I like exclusively red lighting for PC equipment as it's not overly bright or obnoxious. I find blue to be particularly annoying.

Snap opinion: Cherry MX Black vs Red? I'm looking at the CM Storm QuickFire Rapid.

Red by a landslide for me. I can't stand blacks...they're far too heavy. I have brown switches in my keyboard but I really wish I got red...after I tried red I immediately regretted my decision.
 

Diomedes

Member
A few minor questions:

1. What are typical 180mm exhaust fans speeds? Upgraded MB and now getting low RPM warnings on top exhaust fan (see pic related). Should I be concerned, replace?
2. Purchased a Seasonic M12II PSU to replace a TX650v2; I am thrilled with the decrease in sound (barely audible now), but the cables are short. Specifically, the 12-pin ATX (hardwired) won't reach unless coming up through the PSU separating wall rather than around the back, and the SATA power cables (modular) need to really stretch to reach where they need to go. Can I find cable extensions or replacement cables to address these issues?

5zcyEJV.png
 

jester

Neo Member
Can anyone recommend a USB3 external drive solution for running/storing my PC games? I'm looking for something with at least 1TB of space and ideally I would like to run my entire Steam library from it without losing performance.
 

Azulsky

Member
Can anyone recommend a USB3 external drive solution for running/storing my PC games? I'm looking for something with at least 1TB of space and ideally I would like to run my entire Steam library from it without losing performance.

Pretty much buy a hard drive and put it in a USB3 case.

Maybe get these 2 bits

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236221
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182276

You have plenty of enclosure options for 2.5'' and USB3. Vantec,Rosewill, Silverstone

Dont buy a prebuilt external drive. Have seen waaaay too many fail.

You could always get a SSD too but you pretty much have 2 options for 1TB the Samsung 840 EVO or the Crucial M4. That would solve any performance issues but you will always be bottlenecked by the USB3

The other option is to get an external with ESATA. I have not seen 2.5'' enclosures for this.
 

jester

Neo Member
Pretty much buy a hard drive and put it in a USB3 case.

Maybe get these 2 bits

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236221
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182276

You have plenty of enclosure options for 2.5'' and USB3. Vantec,Rosewill, Silverstone

Dont buy a prebuilt external drive. Have seen waaaay too many fail.

You could always get a SSD too but you pretty much have 2 options for 1TB the Samsung 840 EVO or the Crucial M4. That would solve any performance issues but you will always be bottlenecked by the USB3

The other option is to get an external with ESATA. I have not seen 2.5'' enclosures for this.

Thanks for your reply.

Pretty much what you described was what I was leaning towards, but I just wanted to be sure, there is no performance loss by using a self-powered 2.5" USB3 enclosure?
 

maneil99

Member
I'd warn anyone OCing and using AI suite to uninstall everything except fan expert, it will screw with your settings
 

Foxyone

Member
How much system RAM does a game usually use? I know it uses VRAM as well,but I'm just wondering if the new consoles, in relation to PCs with 2 memory types, can use 6 GB of RAM, but a PC would use less VRAM and some system RAM as well?

Basically, what might a game using 6GB of RAM on PS4 use in terms of VRAM on PC?
 

Anton668

Member
How much system RAM does a game usually use? I know it uses VRAM as well,but I'm just wondering if the new consoles, in relation to PCs with 2 memory types, can use 6 GB of RAM, but a PC would use less VRAM and some system RAM as well?

Basically, what might a game using 6GB of RAM on PS4 use in terms of VRAM on PC?

the quick answer is we wont know till we know really.

in the here and now, aside from a select few mods(and uber resolution), 2Gb is a pretty safe bet. going forward.... well...
will it increase? prolly. when? who knows.....
 

brentech

Member
How much system RAM does a game usually use? I know it uses VRAM as well,but I'm just wondering if the new consoles, in relation to PCs with 2 memory types, can use 6 GB of RAM, but a PC would use less VRAM and some system RAM as well?

Basically, what might a game using 6GB of RAM on PS4 use in terms of VRAM on PC?

most games aren't even using 2GB right now. there are some that can make use of more, but don't require it (unless you use a bunch of add-ons that will jack it up). but as of right now, they're kind of just starting to develop over that. The early games that truly use and require more, are probably going to be poorly optimized.
 

jester

Neo Member
Since this thread is so helpful, I figure I would ask this here as well.

YouTube is unusable for me across multiple computers and my phone. Other streaming video works fine. Could this be my ISP or my router? I have a blue Linksys router that I want to upgrade.
 
Thanks again for the help with the build; I'll post my component list again so no one has to go looking back for it (I've been away for awhile; so apologies for the late response):


  • BitFenix Prodigy
  • Intel Core i5-4670K - Socket LGA1150, 3.4Ghz
  • ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI IMPACT Socket 1150 Intel Z87
  • G.Skill 16GB (2 x 8GB PC3-12800 1600MHz DDR3 RAM - 10-10-10-30) - RipjawsX Series
  • Seasonic Platinum-660 Fully Modular 80PLUS 660W PSU
  • MSI GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr 3 2GB GDDR5
  • Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s SSD
  • Corsair Hydro Series H60 2013 Liquid CPU Cooler
  • ASUS (DRW-24B3ST)
  • WD10EZEX 1TB
  • Microsoft Windows 8 64-Bit English OEM


My build is almost identical. Word of advice regarding the Prodigy/H60/Impact combo - it's difficult to mount the H60 2013 (due to the thicker, longer tubes. It's very different to the old version you see in builds) anywhere else other than the top fan hole closest to the front of the case. This means you'll not be able to use the 5.5" bay for a drive (if you were planning to).

Thanks to your forewarning; I spent a heck of a lot of extra time assuring before anything was screwed down; that the tubes would fit. They really were hard to work with; but I managed to get it to fit fairly well at the back of the case; with some creative maneuvering. See the following images:

87585533-8394-4625-a938-4684263c3e2b_zpsbb73688e.jpg


a3fe5ae1-e7dc-4f61-8b1d-e6814bd93bcd_zpsbbb7695b.jpg



Here are pictures of the first boot:

e4fadabc-2ed0-4b9c-89cd-6054217e76dc_zps20645a1b.jpg


7afd9aca-0b95-460b-9cfb-2c1abdf0f91c_zps73e0ade6.jpg


Along with the finished case:

c9f69275-1b21-425b-a57a-d74e4a529a1c_zps33cabcac.jpg



Only get 16GB if you do computer heavy stuff other than gaming. 8GB is already more than you need for gaming. Change the PSU, the Seasonic platinum is fine, but it is one of their older units. If you want to go with high end Seasonic for it's silence get the x650. If not then then the Seasonic G series 550W will be perfect for that build.

I'm going to be running a combination of 3DS Max, Photoshop, (Insert Game Engine Here) on a fairly regular basis; along with gaming. 16GB might be a bit overkill; but my rule in building computers has always been to double the RAM I suspect I would need.


I'm actually having quite a bit of a problem with the Seasonic Platinum and was hoping you or anyone might have some suggestions. There is a fairly audible high pitch electrical whine produced from the unit. I'm finding myself pretty sensitive to it and have even had headaches from the thing.

- The Power Supply emits a loud electrical screech sound; even when the system is turned off and the Power Supply is the only thing on
- The screech gets pretty loud when the system is booted into Windows; with any sort of system strain, it becomes almost unbearable to be in the same room
- After the system is shut down; the whine gets louder
- The system is in my bedroom and sits on the desk; this is at ear level
- It can be heard over every other component; which is completely unacceptable for a power supply


Is this a regular thing for new PSU? Is this something I can fix on my own?

The store return policy period is over; as I was waiting for the Impact to arrive and could not test any of the parts within 14 days. I can RMA the part; but will likely get a refurbished unit and this seems like it might be a common problem with this specific PSU. RMA might make the situation worse.

I'm feeling a bit screwed at this point; as I went well over-budget on this PSU; expecting it to be better. I can't afford a replacement. My only other option is to dig into my old rig and pull out my Enermax 530W unit (many years old; which might be a very bad idea; I'm not even sure if it could be sufficient for this build).

Any suggestions would be heavily appreciated!
 

kharma45

Member
I'm actually having quite a bit of a problem with the Seasonic Platinum and was hoping you or anyone might have some suggestions. There is a fairly audible high pitch electrical whine produced from the unit. I'm finding myself pretty sensitive to it and have even had headaches from the thing.

- The Power Supply emits a loud electrical screech sound; even when the system is turned off and the Power Supply is the only thing on
- The screech gets pretty loud when the system is booted into Windows; with any sort of system strain, it becomes almost unbearable to be in the same room
- After the system is shut down; the whine gets louder
- The system is in my bedroom and sits on the desk; this is at ear level
- It can be heard over every other component; which is completely unacceptable for a power supply


Is this a regular thing for new PSU? Is this something I can fix on my own?

The store return policy period is over; as I was waiting for the Impact to arrive and could not test any of the parts within 14 days. I can RMA the part; but will likely get a refurbished unit and this seems like it might be a common problem with this specific PSU. RMA might make the situation worse.

I'm feeling a bit screwed at this point; as I went well over-budget on this PSU; expecting it to be better. I can't afford a replacement. My only other option is to dig into my old rig and pull out my Enermax 530W unit (many years old; which might be a very bad idea; I'm not even sure if it could be sufficient for this build).

Any suggestions would be heavily appreciated!

Which one is it? there is one that suffers very badly from coil whine I suspect you have it.
 
When is the best time to buy PC parts for someone living in the United States? Maybe November around Black Friday? I'm looking to start from scratch so it's bound to be an expensive upgrade. I'm not in any huge rush though.

I've been disappointed with AMD, so I will most likely be replacing my AMD video card and processor and going with NVidia video card and Intel processor, if that matters at all.
 

kharma45

Member
When is the best time to buy PC parts for someone living in the United States? Maybe November around Black Friday? I'm looking to start from scratch so it's bound to be an expensive upgrade. I'm not in any huge rush though.

I've been disappointed with AMD, so I will most likely be replacing my AMD video card and processor and going with NVidia video card and Intel processor, if that matters at all.

There is no best time tbh, deals come and go.

What has disappointed you about AMD?
 
Can anyone make suggestions to this spec? I know I'm missing RAM, it's cheaper elsewhere. Just wanting suggestions for better price to performance ratio.

I'm not sure about the PSU... may be better to get something higher spec?

OTYGO7u.jpg


EDIT: I've changed the PSU to a Corsair CX500.
 

Palmer_v1

Member
I followed Hazaro's Excellent build for the most part, but have maybe 200 dollars with which to make further upgrades. This PC is meant to be used for gaming mostly. I may also stream media to a TV on occasion. I wouldn't mind having the option to stream games live, but it's not a priority. I would like to try Dolphin emulation as well. I have no plans to overclock anything. The only thing I'm taking from my old computer is the cd/dvd burner, M&KB, and monitor. I'm sticking with all newegg cause i'm lazy. I would like this to work with oculus rift down the line. My current monitor is wide screen 75hz 1366x768. I don't care about audio quality much. I'm fine with a steady 30fps, but wouldn't mind better. I'd like it to be future proof so I can upgrade later on. Plan to order everything tomorrow evening.

tl;dr: $200 left to upgrade/add something below. Need a response today/tomorrow if possible. Thanks!

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1yQai

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($42.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($265.91 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 660W 80 PLUS Platinum Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($115.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1284.80
 

Mutagenic

Permanent Junior Member
My right speaker completely cuts out after a few minutes until I unplug it from the left speaker and then plug it back in. This never happened with my old computer. I reinstalled the drivers. Does anyone have advice? Thanks.
 
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