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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
AmaterasuOkami076
Member
Hi guys, I guess this would be the best place to ask, I'll soon be building my first PC, and if anyone could give me a quick second opinion that'd be awesome.
Budget: I'm in the UK and my budget is £1,150 (at the moment, I'd like to get ordering parts and building ASAP but I could add ~£150 at the end of each month, starting July, if necessary)
Main Use: Emulation (Dolphin is a priority) but gaming in general, also a priority is streaming games in HD. I have a separate capture card already and I want to be able to stream HD (say over Twitch) and some general Web usage + 1080p playback
Monitor Resolution: I'll use my HDTV as a monitor to start with, I'll upgrade to a monitor later.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: To be very specific, games such as Xenoblade Chronicles and Super Mario Galaxy and other Dolphin games at 1080p and 60fps when applicable, I'm not sure how feasible it is, (I'm still doing some research) but I have a HD PVR 2 and would like to stream these games using XSplit on Twitch. But I would like to be able to run newer, more graphically intensive games as well.
When will you build?: As soon as I can, if I need a bit more £££ then I get paid at the end of every month, and would be able to add around £150 each month, but I've been saving slowly for a while, I've just been paid and I'm itching to get going!
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe, we'll see how confident I am with the whole thing, but I'd like the potential to.
With this in mind, I've used the PCPartPicker in the OP and come up with the following:
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing
Motherboard: Asus Z87-K ATX LGA1150
Memory: Kingston 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1333
Storage: Seagate SV35.5 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 680 2GB
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (Red) ATX
PSU: Corsair Builder 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit)
This comes to £1,166, I'll be adding a monitor/optical drive etc later. For it's purpose, is it lacking in a particular direction? I realise that the website has a function to share the build but I was directed to a log in screen, it's 2am here and I'm up for work in 5 hours, but I'll sort it out tomorrow if it helps. I apologise if I've left any important information out and if so, again, I'll edit tomorrow with more info. I just wanted second/third opinions before I delve in since it's an expensive endeavor.
Thanks in advance, GAF!
Budget: I'm in the UK and my budget is £1,150 (at the moment, I'd like to get ordering parts and building ASAP but I could add ~£150 at the end of each month, starting July, if necessary)
Main Use: Emulation (Dolphin is a priority) but gaming in general, also a priority is streaming games in HD. I have a separate capture card already and I want to be able to stream HD (say over Twitch) and some general Web usage + 1080p playback
Monitor Resolution: I'll use my HDTV as a monitor to start with, I'll upgrade to a monitor later.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: To be very specific, games such as Xenoblade Chronicles and Super Mario Galaxy and other Dolphin games at 1080p and 60fps when applicable, I'm not sure how feasible it is, (I'm still doing some research) but I have a HD PVR 2 and would like to stream these games using XSplit on Twitch. But I would like to be able to run newer, more graphically intensive games as well.
When will you build?: As soon as I can, if I need a bit more £££ then I get paid at the end of every month, and would be able to add around £150 each month, but I've been saving slowly for a while, I've just been paid and I'm itching to get going!
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe, we'll see how confident I am with the whole thing, but I'd like the potential to.
With this in mind, I've used the PCPartPicker in the OP and come up with the following:
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing
Motherboard: Asus Z87-K ATX LGA1150
Memory: Kingston 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1333
Storage: Seagate SV35.5 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 680 2GB
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (Red) ATX
PSU: Corsair Builder 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit)
This comes to £1,166, I'll be adding a monitor/optical drive etc later. For it's purpose, is it lacking in a particular direction? I realise that the website has a function to share the build but I was directed to a log in screen, it's 2am here and I'm up for work in 5 hours, but I'll sort it out tomorrow if it helps. I apologise if I've left any important information out and if so, again, I'll edit tomorrow with more info. I just wanted second/third opinions before I delve in since it's an expensive endeavor.
Thanks in advance, GAF!
I don't know if the switches come with the case but you are supposed to use anti vandal switches like these:
Take the nut off, push the button through the front of the designated 5.25 bracket and then use the nut to fasten it from the back. If it doesn't come prewired you are going to have to take care of that too.
Something really odd just happened.
I've been running on latest Nvidia WHQL drivers for a while now and haven't had a single issue. I haven't been gaming too much these last couple of days but I'm pretty confident I've played a pretty long game of FFXIV, Killing Floor and The Witcher 2 with this set. Few minutes ago I attempt to start up FFXIV and I am greeted with a flickering display and a hard lock. I restart my PC and try it again. Same thing... over and over again. At first I think the servers are just having issues but then I try a few other games. Guild Wars 2, Witcher 2, Killing Floor and they exhibit the same. Flickering display and it certain games things that look like artifacts.
I'm pretty freaked out about this. This is like my third RMA 690 and I really don't want to go through this again. But I'm stuck, it's a thousand dollar card. I can't just forget about it.
Anyhow, I do a clean reinstall of the latest beta and now everything seems good. Now I'm just confused. What could have been causing the issues? Driver set seemed solid and I had no issues until today. Or is my card just getting ready to go? Seems to be running fine, heat is good, performance is good. No hitching or anything.
I've been running on latest Nvidia WHQL drivers for a while now and haven't had a single issue. I haven't been gaming too much these last couple of days but I'm pretty confident I've played a pretty long game of FFXIV, Killing Floor and The Witcher 2 with this set. Few minutes ago I attempt to start up FFXIV and I am greeted with a flickering display and a hard lock. I restart my PC and try it again. Same thing... over and over again. At first I think the servers are just having issues but then I try a few other games. Guild Wars 2, Witcher 2, Killing Floor and they exhibit the same. Flickering display and it certain games things that look like artifacts.
I'm pretty freaked out about this. This is like my third RMA 690 and I really don't want to go through this again. But I'm stuck, it's a thousand dollar card. I can't just forget about it.
Anyhow, I do a clean reinstall of the latest beta and now everything seems good. Now I'm just confused. What could have been causing the issues? Driver set seemed solid and I had no issues until today. Or is my card just getting ready to go? Seems to be running fine, heat is good, performance is good. No hitching or anything.
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
I don't know if the switches come with the case but you are supposed to use anti vandal switches like these:
Take the nut off, push the button through the front of the designated 5.25 bracket and then use the nut to fasten it from the back. If it doesn't come prewired you are going to have to take care of that too.
Haha, yeah - thank you! I actually *just* realized this right before you posted. I *thought* that was what I was supposed to do - but the nut was ridiculously tight - eventually had to get a wrench and a vise and use my body weight to get it undone.
Thanks!
I've been meaning to a 120 HZ monitor and the BenQ xl2420t seems to be the best option. Do you guys recommend any other brand/model. I don't care that much about IQ as long as I have no lag and the image is smooth.
Also, as someone who has two 6790, I won't benefit from the 3d, right?
Also, as someone who has two 6790, I won't benefit from the 3d, right?
Oh no I agree, it's a great looking monitor. Just find ASUS' general cocky marketing funny, like a chef praising his own food to high heavens
They feel really confident about their products.
I'll be a bit biased because I was using a laptop with 5 years before getting this computer but I couldn't be happier with it. There's probably a lot of displays better than this one but if 1080p is enough for your gaming and you also value highly other things like watching movies/series, then this is a great choice under 250. I'm not an hardware expert but I did a lot of research and it just seemed like the better choice for me:
+ amazing design;
+ really good color reproduction;
+ great sound for a display;
+ 2 HDMI ports;
+ I've tried playing some FPS and racing games on the X360 and the response is perfectly fine for me;
- doesn't adjust height;
EatinOlives
Member
Hi guys, I have my 770 installed on my PC now but I want to see if this is the expected performance:
Gaming at 1080p here.
Shogun 2 with every single thing cranked up (even DX11) brings FPS down to ~40 when zooming it to the ground.
Just Cause 2, everything on high/turned on (including Bokeh, which is apparently horribly taxing for no reason in this game), in-game 8xAA, pulls down as low as ~45 in the Concrete Jungle benchmark. Booted up the actual game and drove around the jungle biome, ran at a smoother 60.
Is that about right? The reason I'm asking is that I'm running off a 3-year old system with an overclocked i5-750 @ 3.8GHz. Has anyone here run either of those two games/benchmarks and pulled off 60 FPS for sure in those circumstances? I want to see if I'm being bottlenecked by anything.
Gaming at 1080p here.
Shogun 2 with every single thing cranked up (even DX11) brings FPS down to ~40 when zooming it to the ground.
Just Cause 2, everything on high/turned on (including Bokeh, which is apparently horribly taxing for no reason in this game), in-game 8xAA, pulls down as low as ~45 in the Concrete Jungle benchmark. Booted up the actual game and drove around the jungle biome, ran at a smoother 60.
Is that about right? The reason I'm asking is that I'm running off a 3-year old system with an overclocked i5-750 @ 3.8GHz. Has anyone here run either of those two games/benchmarks and pulled off 60 FPS for sure in those circumstances? I want to see if I'm being bottlenecked by anything.
Couchaddict
Member
Sounds like your BIOS battery is dead.
Which motherboard out of these would be best?
http://microcenter.com/product/387627/Z77_Pro3_1155_ATX_Intel_Motherboard
http://microcenter.com/product/388327/GA-Z77-DS3H_LGA_1155_Z77_ATX_Intel_Motherboard
http://microcenter.com/product/401768/Z77A-G45_Socket_1155_ATX_Motherboard
Going to be paired with a 3570k. Brother is looking for an upgrade but doesnt want to spend too much.
http://microcenter.com/product/387627/Z77_Pro3_1155_ATX_Intel_Motherboard
http://microcenter.com/product/388327/GA-Z77-DS3H_LGA_1155_Z77_ATX_Intel_Motherboard
http://microcenter.com/product/401768/Z77A-G45_Socket_1155_ATX_Motherboard
Going to be paired with a 3570k. Brother is looking for an upgrade but doesnt want to spend too much.
Dave_6
Member
I hope not considering it's only ~2 months old. Anyways I started it up again after I posted that and it booted up fine this time.
I took off the HSF and applied some Arctic Silver 5. CPU 0 temp stays under 60 which is awesome but the Fintek reading is still >60 after 8 passes of Prime95 in Blend mode.
I am just trying to determine what reading is more accurate - CPU 0 or Fintek. If it's CPU 0 then I am definitely in the clear.
62C is apparently the max any FX series should have to put up with under load for extended periods of time (i.e. gaming).
Note:
Roland1979
Junior Member
Alright so I have the following received, going to order the rest from a different store in a short while. If there are any "crucial mistakes" just let me know.
So far I have:
That leaves unchecked on my list:
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (ATX)
PSU: Sea Sonic X-650 v2
MoBo: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K
GPU: Palit GeForce GTX 770 JetStream (2GB)
SSD: Samsung 840 Series 500GB
Any comments are welcome. Still not sure about the PSU though.
EDIT: going for a mild to medium overclock, where silence comes first, then temperatures then performance (CPU & RAM). GPU Get's replaced every few years so i don't mind mistreating it, as long as the sound levels are good.
So far I have:
- sound card (Creative Sound Blaster Z)
- case fans (Scythe Gentle Typhoon, 120mm)
- CPU fan (Cooler Master Hyper 412S)
- HDD (Seagate Baracuda ST31000524AS, 1TB)
- RAM (Crucial Ballistix Tactical 1600MHz CL8 2 x 4 GB, 1.35v)
That leaves unchecked on my list:
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (ATX)
PSU: Sea Sonic X-650 v2
MoBo: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K
GPU: Palit GeForce GTX 770 JetStream (2GB)
SSD: Samsung 840 Series 500GB
Any comments are welcome. Still not sure about the PSU though.
EDIT: going for a mild to medium overclock, where silence comes first, then temperatures then performance (CPU & RAM). GPU Get's replaced every few years so i don't mind mistreating it, as long as the sound levels are good.
IcyRhythms
Member
The top fan in my Cooler Master 922 case is having issues. I need to replace it. Any suggestions on reliable 200mm fans is appreciated.
Roland1979
Junior Member
wrong thread?
Hahah yep, my bad.
G45 is a solid board.
*Exasperated sigh* .... I've dropped more than $300 on this acrylic tubing by itself... and I'm very close to just cutting my losses. First I ordered the Primochill rigid tubing - their half-inch stuff - and their rigid ghost compression fittings. Well, unfortunately, those new fittings just weren't very good as most people know by now.
So I ordered e22 tube and their fittings. Freaking crap I can't find ANYTHING to put inside to bend. I bought the heat gun. I bought the bending tool. $30 and $30. I bought a hobby hack saw. etc.
I've purchased every size spring I can find. I've driven miles and miles trying to find silicone or something like it that will fit. Nobody has it. I've ordered some online, it doesn't work. Every freaking thing I try causes kinks in the bend, the bend breaks, or the object gets stuck in the tube. Arg.
I have one more thing coming - from Australia - that is supposedly perfectly sized and works well. I gotta wait a couple weeks for it to get here
***
Everything else looks great, though! Cables arrived today and they look fantastic. A bit loose right now and not perfectly aligned, but I'll get to it. They're beautiful - thanks mkenyon! I've got the res attached to my radiator in front, it looks great. The fittings themselevs are surprisingly nice looking and match well. PSU is installed.Also got the GPU all fixed up after EK sent me an extra screw. I got the PCI slot covers screwed in. I've decided to forgo the HDD cages, and I'll mount my two SSDs on the back. I can use external drives for media - besides, at this point, why do I want anything other than flash, anyway. Fans are all installed - wires are routed to the back.
At this point, other than getting the Blu-Ray drive matte'd up and installed, everything is pretty much good for installation.
That said, Little Devil never sent the replacement front USB cables they initially forgot and said they'd re-send out. Again, I've said this before - the case is wonderful, it really is. But I gotta be honest, I don't think I'd ever buy a case from them again. For nearly $500, I feel like I'm constantly "needing" things and/or something doesn't match. Also... how am I supposed to mount the front power and reset buttons? Seems like another piece is possibly missing - I wouldn't know; the case comes with zero documentation.
Eh, I'm being a bit negative - I'm just sick of spending more and more money, and buying the best of the best - not cheaping out - and still having problems. About two months into the project and I'm getting kind of anxious - especially considering I could very well have a faulty mobo or PSU or anything - who knows if stuff was DOA.
I know when it's all said and done - assuming I don't run into any more critical issues - it'll be beautiful and I'll love it. But I'm a tad frustrated right this moment
Well atleast the parts you have installed look nice
. But the closer you get to trying to do everything perfectly the longer it's going to take. In the meantime try to test if the main parts are working using the stock coolers (not sure if the 3820 comes with one though). It's going to suck if it turns out your mobo or some other part turns out to be dead.
maneil99
Member
If somebody could answer this that would be amazing?
Here is an issue I'd like you guys to help me with. Okay lets go back 3 months, my UD3H Bios dies and I RMA it sell it and get a Gene V. I also RMA the CPU (3570k) I uninstall all the previous junk from the old mother board and test out the new chip running windows 7 SP1. I find I need 1.280 vcore to be stable ( Using Offsets ) with LLC at Ultra High. I run into random freezing issues where my computer would freeze for a few seconds, unthaw with a beep through the computer speakers and return to normal. I reformated to basic windows 7 no SP1 and managed to get my OC to 1.256v however there was vdroop, it hit 1.248v in rpime and 1.256v in normal use. Here is the weird thing it was the exact same offset as before, nothing was changed between formats. So I had network and ping issues so I did some windows updates, lo and behold vcore returns to previous levels, vdroop disappears and random freezes return.
So I have isolated the reason for the Vcore, it is related to AVX, a Intel Instruction Set for windows 7 SP1 and Windows 8. I just upgraded to windows 8 and found out I was using the ASmedia Sata Port and kept getting BSODS. Switched to Intel and its fine now. So I think that accounts for the Freezing.
Back to AVX, when I use a command line to disable AVX things go back down ( freezes still happen this is how I knew it was not an OC issue) temps I get at 73c after 9 hour test 100% fan speed with AVX, 69c with 50% without AVX
What I want to know is
Why does my vdroop disappear? Is this good or bad? Anyone using offets experience this?
Should I leave AVX on or off?
How much time have I killed off my chip by running prime regularly for the last month and a bit?
I have my HDD plugged into the top slot of the intel sata row? it should not effect performance right? (Only have 1 HDD )?
I get 65c max in LoL vsync off (100% CPU Usage) which seems high but considering it was maxing out my CPU I am not sure
Here is an issue I'd like you guys to help me with. Okay lets go back 3 months, my UD3H Bios dies and I RMA it sell it and get a Gene V. I also RMA the CPU (3570k) I uninstall all the previous junk from the old mother board and test out the new chip running windows 7 SP1. I find I need 1.280 vcore to be stable ( Using Offsets ) with LLC at Ultra High. I run into random freezing issues where my computer would freeze for a few seconds, unthaw with a beep through the computer speakers and return to normal. I reformated to basic windows 7 no SP1 and managed to get my OC to 1.256v however there was vdroop, it hit 1.248v in rpime and 1.256v in normal use. Here is the weird thing it was the exact same offset as before, nothing was changed between formats. So I had network and ping issues so I did some windows updates, lo and behold vcore returns to previous levels, vdroop disappears and random freezes return.
So I have isolated the reason for the Vcore, it is related to AVX, a Intel Instruction Set for windows 7 SP1 and Windows 8. I just upgraded to windows 8 and found out I was using the ASmedia Sata Port and kept getting BSODS. Switched to Intel and its fine now. So I think that accounts for the Freezing.
Back to AVX, when I use a command line to disable AVX things go back down ( freezes still happen this is how I knew it was not an OC issue) temps I get at 73c after 9 hour test 100% fan speed with AVX, 69c with 50% without AVX
What I want to know is
Why does my vdroop disappear? Is this good or bad? Anyone using offets experience this?
Should I leave AVX on or off?
How much time have I killed off my chip by running prime regularly for the last month and a bit?
I have my HDD plugged into the top slot of the intel sata row? it should not effect performance right? (Only have 1 HDD )?
I get 65c max in LoL vsync off (100% CPU Usage) which seems high but considering it was maxing out my CPU I am not sure
SuicideUZI
Member
Well after updating my PC I ordered the other components that I kept out of my old PC to have another fully working PC to sell, so I'm just wondering what you guys think is a fair price for this build:
CPU - Core i7 860 with a stable overclock of 3.3GHz
CPU Cooler - Corsair closed loop watercooler, cant remember exact model but its one with a 120mm fan
RAM - 8GB DDR3 1600 Mushkin brand
Motherboard - Asus Maximus III Formula
GPU - GeForce GTX 650
PSU - Corsair CX430
HDD - I have 2 Western Digital Black HDDs that I could use, 1 is 500GB and 1 is 1.5TB, I would probably just charge $50 more if they wanted the 1.5TB
Plextor PX-755SA Dual-Layer DVD burner
the case is a mid-tower Cooler Master case as seen here:
CPU - Core i7 860 with a stable overclock of 3.3GHz
CPU Cooler - Corsair closed loop watercooler, cant remember exact model but its one with a 120mm fan
RAM - 8GB DDR3 1600 Mushkin brand
Motherboard - Asus Maximus III Formula
GPU - GeForce GTX 650
PSU - Corsair CX430
HDD - I have 2 Western Digital Black HDDs that I could use, 1 is 500GB and 1 is 1.5TB, I would probably just charge $50 more if they wanted the 1.5TB
Plextor PX-755SA Dual-Layer DVD burner
the case is a mid-tower Cooler Master case as seen here:
longdi
Banned
vdroop occurs when you are stressing your cpu. For asus boards, at ultra high LLC, it should actually boost the vcore in stress situation. I dont like that imo. Temps shoot way too high. Just turn to normal or high.
AVX i dont think you can or should leave it off it, It is a good thing. If your PC crashed with AVX on, that means your OC is not stable. Try with other settings. If not, you are just lying to yourself.
I just think your OC settings is not stable. what speeds are you at? 4.2 to 4.4 ghz on i5 3570k shouldnt need anything more than 1.2-1.25v
BrokenEchelon
Banned
I've asked laptop GAF already, but I figured I might as well ask here as well:
What's the word on Haswell's performance in laptops? My girlfriend's brother needs one for college and right now I'm hunting for one with the requisite of it having a 4th gen CPU. Is it worth it?
What's the word on Haswell's performance in laptops? My girlfriend's brother needs one for college and right now I'm hunting for one with the requisite of it having a 4th gen CPU. Is it worth it?
GHG
Gold Member
Looks good for what you want to use it for although i wouldnt get a 680 these days. Get the 770 or if budget permits, the 780. The 780 will last you a long time, most OC past titan levels.
Are you just gaming? If so you don't need that much RAM. Also that PSU is junk, I'll throw something else together for you in a minute.
Right I've thrown together this
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/1bNBi
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£263.99 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.49 @ CCL Computers)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£116.34 @ Dabs)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£52.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£70.00 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£50.20 @ Ebuyer)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card (£329.98 @ Dabs)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (£76.78 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: Be Quiet Pure Power 630W Modular PSU (£70 @ Ebuyer)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£68.35 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £1123.12
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-30 13:57 BST+0100)
and then for internet get a set of HomePlugs http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004INVKP4/
Wolf Akela
Member
I just replaced the thermal paste for my i3-2100. I went from 68c/85c down to 55c/64c.
It was my first time and I was too worried I put too much that I had to take it off. I saw that it couldn't have possibly been better. The paste got evenly distributed across the entire surface.
Still too hot and I don't want to bother thoroughly cleaning the heatsink.
Just for comparison, my HD5850 goes 43c/61c.
It was my first time and I was too worried I put too much that I had to take it off. I saw that it couldn't have possibly been better. The paste got evenly distributed across the entire surface.
Still too hot and I don't want to bother thoroughly cleaning the heatsink.
Just for comparison, my HD5850 goes 43c/61c.
Which cooler?
Is this thread only for people that are building? Just looking for some help finding a functional low/mid tier system from a good dealer at a decent price. I've been looking at sites like tigerdirect and newegg for two days now and I'm drowning in options and don't want to make a bad choice and end up with a rig with awful integrated graphics like the one I've been using for 6 years.
What about a low end laptop with dedicated graphics that will run modern games even on low/mid settings? I think I'd prefer that over a desktop.
I suggest swapping out the 680 for a 7970 Ghz, better performance most of the time and cheaper. With the saving you could get a better heatsink.
Wolf Akela
Member
Stock. Heatsink is definitely secured. I guess the dust makes it this bad.
yggdrasill
Member
hey, guys. I have a question on my recent computer order. I just bought a gigabyte GTX 770 4GB and realized that my Corsair HX620W may not have enough power connectors to power it. Should it be fine? I can't find what comes in the box. Does it come with cable adapters?
It is also the stock heatsink making it that bad. Get a hyper 212 even if you aren't overclocking. They will make your computer quieter and cooler.
Jibbajabbawockky
Member
Pulled the trigger on the EVGA 760 GTX with ACX cooling. Should be here in a couple days. Should be a nice jump up from my 5770.
yggdrasill
Member
I should be fine as Gigabyte supplies a 2x4-pin molex to 8 pin pci-e adapter with the card.
It will be a huge jump.
Lionel Mandrake
Member
Thinking about finally pulling the trigger on my final component (outside of OS): the CPU.
I was planning to wait for a sale or price drop, but those are so sporadic that I'm beginning to feel like it's not worth the wait. So, as I was advised earlier, I think I'm going with the i5. In the NewEgg videos I've watched, it's mentioned that Intel's stock heatsinks are a little unreliable. Should I go ahead and get a separate heatsink, even if I'm not planning on overclocking? Similarly, do I need to get thermal paste?
I was planning to wait for a sale or price drop, but those are so sporadic that I'm beginning to feel like it's not worth the wait. So, as I was advised earlier, I think I'm going with the i5. In the NewEgg videos I've watched, it's mentioned that Intel's stock heatsinks are a little unreliable. Should I go ahead and get a separate heatsink, even if I'm not planning on overclocking? Similarly, do I need to get thermal paste?
Stock heatsinks are fine for non-overclockers. If you really think the performance is terrible, then buy an aftermarket. Try it out first.
On my setup, my temps are 36 idle and 50 load.
Yes. I find the thermal paste pre-applied on graphics cards and CPUs terrible. Up to you though. Some other people may offer different experiences.
Why are you buying the 3570K if you're not overclocking?
Lionel Mandrake
Member
Well there's only a five dollar difference between the 3570 and the 3570K, and the K is listed as containing Intel HD Graphics 4000 over Intel HD Graphics 2500 (Which I assume is an improvement) and should I feel more comfortable with the whole thing, I'll at least have the option to overclock in the future.
Part of me is still tempted to go for an i7. Is there really no large difference when it comes to gaming/basic performance?
Ugh, is this a joke? My 770 can't handle ACIII with everything maxed + TXAA? In the theater scene I got drops into the teens, could barely hold 60fps, shit. I'm sick of pinning this on the drivers. 320.49 Beta here. There are moments where everything is just fine but then it just breaks down other times. Is this normal for ACIII?
Roland1979
Junior Member
You cannot keep the games from what i understood (timelocked). But they give you more then plenty time to finish every sp.
Source?
I don't see anything about expiration dates aside from redeeming the promo code.
OK. Just wondering your rationale. I would just overclock on day 1, and I assume you bought a Z motherboard, not H or B (i.e. H77).
Not at all and not worth it in terms of the cost difference. You can surf the web, check e-mail, and even play a few games on Netbook power-level processors. I have a low-powered AMD setup (E-450) specifically for this.
Anton668
Member
the hell are you talking about?!?! nowhere does it say that
http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/Never_Settle_Reloaded_Terms_Conditions.pdf
The 8000 series is just a rebrand of the 7000 for OEM, but the 9000 series is set to be released late 2013 from what I've read.
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