True the CPU is much worse (even without knowing what improvements Steamroller will bring) and of course there is overclocking on the PC side. I still think even the Xbox One will have a decent advantage over it in most titles though, next generation of APUs I'd expect to see it beaten though. Time will tell though, looking forward to the Kaveri reviews and even seeing what the Athlons based on it turn out like if they can keep the rock bottom price.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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True the CPU is much worse (even without knowing what improvements Steamroller will bring) and of course there is overclocking on the PC side. I still think even the Xbox One will have a decent advantage over it in most titles though, next generation of APUs I'd expect to see it beaten though. Time will tell though, looking forward to the Kaveri reviews and even seeing what the Athlons based on it turn out like if they can keep the rock bottom price.
Deified Data
Banned
Thanks Sean - yeah, I was trying to keep my budget comfortably below $1,000.
indigo-cyclops
Member
Yes, another thank you. Your recommendation pushed me to the UD3H and I've been extremely impressed and pleased. I've had no issues, and my first foray into overclocking has been smooth. What a board.
And 60 FPS on all my games now is a blessing.
I have had my 290 for about 4 days now. It runs warm that's true though right now its winter so I am not too worried. I intend to put a aftermarket cooler on it eventually anyways but im just letting it burn in and get general usage to make sure there aren't any failures before I tinker with it.
I managed to get mine before the Bitcoin market caused the prices to jump and I am more than happy with it.
No problem. It's a top quality bit of kit for the price. Glad you're making use of the OC potential of your CPU, always good to hear!
LeGourmand
Member
I just got my Define R4 today, still waiting for more parts. Would getting more fans like one on the side and maybe a second in the front be worth it? And what kind of fan should i get, i mean if it doesn't cost much, why not.
The reason not to would be additional noise. It's probably not needed if you're running a single video card.
You shouldn't have a problem with that.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2hQKl
CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.95 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($42.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $652.87
That's all without an operating system, monitor, keyboard/mouse and whatever other peripherals you might want. Not sure if you have any of these already(or access to a copy of Windows). Even if you have none of these things, you should still be able to keep it under $1000 quite easily.
Should be a good basis to work off of. That setup right there would do you fine, but you might want a different case or something and the motherboard only supports a single GPU, which means you couldn't add a 2nd GTX760 down the line or anything, which may or may not interest you(I don't think that's a big deal, but that's just me).
Why not go for an i3, when the game in question runs undoubtedly better on one?
*edit*
Also don't forget AM3+ is basically a dead socket. Not likely to be any viable upgrades in the future, and you'll be stuck with PCI-E 2.0. It's a terrible decision at this point in the game. I'd advise a Kaveri CPU on A88X at least if one is going for a total budget system at this point.
*edit*
Also don't forget AM3+ is basically a dead socket. Not likely to be any viable upgrades in the future, and you'll be stuck with PCI-E 2.0. It's a terrible decision at this point in the game. I'd advise a Kaveri CPU on A88X at least if one is going for a total budget system at this point.
Oh crap, that is the only difference :lol The comparison link I had was comparing the D3H and UD4H and I just noticed. Derp.
UD3H matches with the blue G.Skill Ares RAM I just received so UD3H it is! I wish I made this decision back during Black Friday
Could've saved about $40+ Thank you kharma45 and mkenyon!PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $217.74)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $149.99)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (Purchased For $109.99)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($164.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Microcenter)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($259.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $74.99)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $64.99)
Total: $1162.65
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-09 20:11 EST-0500)
All I'm missing now is the SSD, HDD, CPU cooler, GPU, and a mechanical KB.
CreepingFear
Member
Just tried to order the 780 ti Classifed from EVGA and the order is not going through. Between EVGA and Google Play, I don't ever want to do deal with an online store not called Amazon.
I ordered another a few weeks ago and it went through easy peasy
I think the 4H has a 'heat pipe' in the vram heatsink that the 3H doesn't lol
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
I recon 780ti's will be sud 750 by February?
TC McQueen
Member
Zotac is supposedly selling theirs at $669.99.
CreepingFear
Member
I'm getting some sort of error message from EVGA's site about shipping address. Their customer service wasn't able to help me. I was able to use the same credit card afterwards to purchase a broken key from my laptop. I'll just wait for the 780 ti Classified to get on Amazon or NewEgg.
aramanKain
Member
So I was able to sell my 7950 for a nice profit of almost $200 (thank you based bitcoin mining) and am going to turn around and use the profit to get a better card. But I can't decide...
7970 GHz Edition
or
R9 280X
or
GeForce GTX 770
I'm seeing so much mixed feedback about R9 280's that it's making me shy away. Any thoughts GAF?
7970 GHz Edition
or
R9 280X
or
GeForce GTX 770
I'm seeing so much mixed feedback about R9 280's that it's making me shy away. Any thoughts GAF?
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
In the states? Link please.
Hmm since you mentioned it, I did a Google search.
UD4H has 16 phase power vs UD3H's 8 phase power. I'm not sure if that will bother me. Should I be? lol
These are going to be overpriced too.
TC McQueen
Member
Here's the source. Sorry if I messed up the link, I'm using a tablet.
So since it is Christmas time I figure maybe an upgrade is in order.
My current rig:
i5 -3570K
16 GB DDR3 Ram
GeForce GTX 670
120 GB SSD
1TB HDD
Any comments on what I should work on to get the best bang for my buck at the moment? Second 670 for SLI? Upgrade to 780TI? Switch out the processor (sounds like a pain)?
My current rig:
i5 -3570K
16 GB DDR3 Ram
GeForce GTX 670
120 GB SSD
1TB HDD
Any comments on what I should work on to get the best bang for my buck at the moment? Second 670 for SLI? Upgrade to 780TI? Switch out the processor (sounds like a pain)?
Felix Lighter
Member
I would guess that the 7970 Ghz Edition and the R9 280X will eat your profit for the same reason.
aramanKain
Member
You're right about the 7970, but my local Micro Center has R9 280's in stock so I'm good there, just unsure about buying one.
Felix Lighter
Member
The R9 280X is a rebranded 7970 Ghz edition. I'm surprised that the price didn't skyrocket with the rest of them.
As noted above, the 7970 and 280x are literally the same card.
770 would be a significant upgrade, Checking on eBay, the 2GB version is going for $300-$330 and might let you walk away with some profit. I'd hunt a little bit though, and try to grab a 4GB 770 for $350ish.
No, 7770 and 7850 are the closest performance wise.
maneil99
Member
Go to intels site.
maneil99
Member
So ive been testing the adaptive vs performance setting from nvidia power management, wanted some advice.
I am using a modded bios for my 780. It disables GPU boost. Downclocking still happens when gpu usage is very low due to being embed in drivers.
I just actually retested performance vs idle in guild wars 2. my GPU runs at 1254 normally when being strained by 99% of games ( BF4, Crysis, ect ) GW2 is obviously one of the CPU bound games that I was talking about earlier that downclocks. Weird thing , while it downclocks on both settings, performance keeps it always at a minimum of 1019, adaptive in the same area moves from the 8xx-9xx. sometimes jumping higher to 1110.
This was in a town. While in a open area it was nearly locked at 1254 on adaptive. On performance it dropped a few times possibly from different circumstances
Arma 3 was nearly always higher on performance while doing a helicopter showcase (1019 vs 9xx)
Would this change the framerate at all, I mean a GPU running at 1019mhz while only 50% is being used is still faster then it running a lower frequency right? Would it be recommended then to set performance mode for all games that downclock due to low usage? Thanks
I am using a modded bios for my 780. It disables GPU boost. Downclocking still happens when gpu usage is very low due to being embed in drivers.
I just actually retested performance vs idle in guild wars 2. my GPU runs at 1254 normally when being strained by 99% of games ( BF4, Crysis, ect ) GW2 is obviously one of the CPU bound games that I was talking about earlier that downclocks. Weird thing , while it downclocks on both settings, performance keeps it always at a minimum of 1019, adaptive in the same area moves from the 8xx-9xx. sometimes jumping higher to 1110.
This was in a town. While in a open area it was nearly locked at 1254 on adaptive. On performance it dropped a few times possibly from different circumstances
Arma 3 was nearly always higher on performance while doing a helicopter showcase (1019 vs 9xx)
Would this change the framerate at all, I mean a GPU running at 1019mhz while only 50% is being used is still faster then it running a lower frequency right? Would it be recommended then to set performance mode for all games that downclock due to low usage? Thanks
SneakyStephan
Banned
This bitcoin mining thing baffles me, can't people by a 7950 or w/e new or a 280x (same card new sticker)
All sold out.
Xbox One GPU has same number of shaders as the 7790 (and it has the True Audio stuff) and the number in the PS4 is just below the 7870, albeit both are clocked slower so their performance isn't quite as good as those cards.
j0hnny_385
Member
Attention Samsung 840 Pro owners!
PRO now supports RAPID tech previously only available to EVO series:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7572/...vo-msata-rapid-for-840-pro-edrive-for-840-evo
What is RAPID and why does it matter?
RAPID: PCIe-like Performance from a SATA SSD
Example:
Samsung SSD 840 EVO 250GB - 4K Random Write, QD1, 8GB LBA Space
PRO now supports RAPID tech previously only available to EVO series:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7572/...vo-msata-rapid-for-840-pro-edrive-for-840-evo
What is RAPID and why does it matter?
RAPID: PCIe-like Performance from a SATA SSD
Example:
Samsung SSD 840 EVO 250GB - 4K Random Write, QD1, 8GB LBA Space
Code:
[B]IOPS[/B] [B]MB/s [/B] Average Latency Max Latency CPU Utilization
RAPID Disabled [B]22769.31[/B] [B]93.26 MB/s[/B] 0.0435 ms 0.7512 ms 13.81%
RAPID Enabled [B]73466.28[/B] [B]300.92 MB/s[/B] 0.0135 ms 31.4259 ms 31.18%Unfortunately, both of those are way more expensive than I was wanting to spend this year. I would get a 290 if they were still $400
Is this just a stock answer to anyone that asks about a driver? The intel extensible usb 3.0 driver on the site does not support windows 8 and intel has said that they will not release a driver for this on 8.1, so we're stuck with the MS driver. I'm getting kb/s transfer speeds when i copy to a class 2 sdhc card (min 2MB/s) so something is wrong with the current driver but there's nothing obvious with which to replace it.
Try disabling xHCI in the bios for those ports as this also sounds like a driver issue. That should kick it back into USB 2.0 i think and see the devices.
EDIT: After putting my own xHCI into manual mode this seems to have improved the transfer rate. For anyone with any USB 3 weirdness on win8.1 i'd recommend looking at this.
Sorry about the thread updates I'm a horrible degenerate (and IRL stuff + Dota is taking my time). Getting insurance is mainly being a pain.
Just want to thank everyone who is contributing.
Do note that it uses 25% or 1GB (whichever is less) of RAM and does cache data which can be lost under a power failure though.
*I also read the entire EVO review, pretty glowing and nice to know that even though I wrote 50GB yesterday it'll last a good 15-30+ years. I think that's far more than enough!
Just want to thank everyone who is contributing.
Thanks for this, I just installed my 840 EVO and was wondering if I should update and exactly what RAPID was (I know it's already available).
Do note that it uses 25% or 1GB (whichever is less) of RAM and does cache data which can be lost under a power failure though.
*I also read the entire EVO review, pretty glowing and nice to know that even though I wrote 50GB yesterday it'll last a good 15-30+ years. I think that's far more than enough!
ASRock (and Zotac) have quite a few mini-itx boards with a mSATA connector. Only one for haswell with Z87 chipset is ASRock Z87E-ITX though...
Your suggestion is correct, but your reason is a bit off... He should get a 3770K because those overclock better (as they produce less heat) and the same can be said of either socket. (1150 might(?) still get Broadwell, but the upgrade won't be all that significant.)
I'm running a 4770K, 290, SSD, HDD (and soon a full custom waterloop) off a 520W Seasonic... (So, yes, it is enough)
But performance is very close to the 7770 and 7850, the 7790 and 7870 on the other hand are notably more powerful.
RedBullEnergy
Member
If I can't re-use my current Windows 7 licence on my new build, can I buy a digital copy to use now? Can't see it on the MS site.
Yeah, what i meant to say is that they re both dead sockets, so with that in mind, better buying the oone that is mmore powerful.
Tnx.
Just finished my first budget build last night, and I have a question.
I installed an AMD FX-6300 Black Edition CPU with the stock cooler for now, since I don't plan on overclocking right away, and when I first booted up my machine the CPU was idling at 50C. I knew this wasn't normal, so I eventually ended up opening up the case and re-seating the heatsink. When I turned my computer back on, it was happily idling at around 20C consistently.
Then, after about 30 minutes of run time, the temp suddenly shot right back up to 50C in an instant while idling still. I opened the case while everything was still running and put pressure on the top of the heatsink and held it for a few seconds. After I let go and a few more seconds passed, the temp returned back to a healthy 20C.
So what's the deal here? Is the stock cooler just a piece of crap? Is the heatsink maybe not installed correctly and failing to make solid contact with the CPU?
FYI - The stock cooler came with a CPU-shaped square of thermal paste already on the bottom. Not sure how good it is.
I installed an AMD FX-6300 Black Edition CPU with the stock cooler for now, since I don't plan on overclocking right away, and when I first booted up my machine the CPU was idling at 50C. I knew this wasn't normal, so I eventually ended up opening up the case and re-seating the heatsink. When I turned my computer back on, it was happily idling at around 20C consistently.
Then, after about 30 minutes of run time, the temp suddenly shot right back up to 50C in an instant while idling still. I opened the case while everything was still running and put pressure on the top of the heatsink and held it for a few seconds. After I let go and a few more seconds passed, the temp returned back to a healthy 20C.
So what's the deal here? Is the stock cooler just a piece of crap? Is the heatsink maybe not installed correctly and failing to make solid contact with the CPU?
FYI - The stock cooler came with a CPU-shaped square of thermal paste already on the bottom. Not sure how good it is.
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