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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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Roland1979
Junior Member
I have a question about fan placement. Before i go building; i have these 2 configurations in my head. Which of the two do you think is best for a Fractal R4? It has great cable management so there should not be too many blocking airflow. It will have a fairly large heat-sink and a large GPU. PSU Will have fan downwards, sucking in air from bottom. My thirst thought would be to go with 2 front intake but several have commented on how great a bottom fan was in reducing temperatures. Here's the 2 fan placements:
There's a third option: top and rear same, but with a bottom fan and a top front instead of a bottom front fan. Your feedback is greatly appreciated!
There's a third option: top and rear same, but with a bottom fan and a top front instead of a bottom front fan. Your feedback is greatly appreciated!
No. I am still using the pre-applied TIM that came with the cooler as I don't have any paste of my own right now. I am thinking about just picking up a CM Hyper 212 EVO for this CPU. Does that come with its own thermal paste?
spindoctor
Member
Yes, it comes with it's own thermal paste.
LeGourmand
Member
I'm also looking to add fans for the Define R4, i was wondering what fan should i get, the define fans or something else?
Whatever you want to get. Spend the extra to get silent ones though like Noctua or Gentletyphoon.
I have a question about fan placement. Before i go building; i have these 2 configurations in my head. Which of the two do you think is best for a Fractal R4? It has great cable management so there should not be too many blocking airflow. It will have a fairly large heat-sink and a large GPU. PSU Will have fan downwards, sucking in air from bottom. My thirst thought would be to go with 2 front intake but several have commented on how great a bottom fan was in reducing temperatures. Here's the 2 fan placements:
There's a third option: top and rear same, but with a bottom fan and a top front instead of a bottom front fan. Your feedback is greatly appreciated!
I would go with the two front fans the only thing else i would recommend is to remove a hard drive cage that is if your case allows it.
First option, but use only a single exhaust out of the rear. Leave the top be. Positive pressure with a single exhaust is plenty for whatever heatsink and GPU you have.
As a general rule of thumb, only add/replace fans if you aren't happy with temps and/or noise.
theSlacker
Member
Anyone here that has the "Asus Gryphon" and or the "Gigabyte G1 Sniper M5" motherboards mind measuring the distance between the first pcie slot and the box surrounding the cpu socket? Still can't find dick about how close a fit a D14 is in them, and now know it is just slightly too close on the Gene VI.
Roland1979
Junior Member
Wait... how do you know what GPU and heatsink i have? (CM 412s, i5-3570k, GTX 770 superclocked). Anyhow, i think i will not go with positive since i'm not really afraid of dust and prefer performance. I'm thinking using just a single front, the rear (both 140mm) and add a single 120mm Scythe Typhoon. Unless you folks would really disapprove or have some better ideas? I have 3 Scythes laying around but i don't mind having a spare or two laying around. I might change my mind and still go with positive, my current rig is very old, negative single exhaust and dust have never really been a problem. I already have removed the top cage by the way.
And thanks for all the suggestions so far. Last question: is a neutral setup strongly discouraged?
Because the TDP of current parts isn't high enough to warrant an array of fans unless you have multiple GPUs. Plus current fan tech has come a long way, and does a great job of moving that heat out of cases. Two fans is plenty enough for what you have. Three is great. Four is going to have basically no effect.
Positive pressure is how you prevent dust. The only intake into the case is where you put fans. With negative pressure, you have air being sucked in through every nook and cranny. With positive pressure, the intake is through the fan filters, which you can pull out and clean often, preventing dust buildup.
Here's my old R4 system. This is with a 7970 DCII (later upgraded to a Matrix 7970 - which was running at 1200MHz) and a 2500K running at 4.5GHz. The total heat being produced by this system are about 150-200W more than what you're going to be using. I ended up pulling out that top exhaust as it was making barely any difference. That's with anemic BitFenix Spectre Pros too.
I'll do it when I get home.
Think about going with something other than the D14? Unless you delid, it's very unlikely you'll see the benefits of it.
Do how about 11 fans then? =P
Also how much would you sell an XSPC dual bay reservoir/pump for? I think I need to go to a two pump system or a D5 vario at least. My flow rate has been slowly dropping to 0.4 g/min now.
Plasticizer buildup perhaps?
I'm not sure how much you could get for it, I'd list it at $30 OBO, with a pump at maybe $60 or $70.
Keep in mind, if your system is staying relatively dust free and your temps are good, then it's not really worth fiddling with unless you want to reduce noise.
theSlacker
Member
Not gonna lie, I really am thinking about it right now. Do plan on deliding eventually, but right now I just want a working computer where the parts aren't touching.
Gonna end up kicking myself for not taking your advice on the Sniper m5 pages ago since from pictures it looks like it's cpu socket is the furthest away from the pcie slot. I really wanna get a certain video card that has a back plate so even an extra 2 mm would be a world of difference over the gene VI. God damn Microcenter and their deals and not having the gigabyte mb.
Blarg.
Roland1979
Junior Member
Alright. Think i'll go with adding a 120mm intake to the top front, leaving the bottom front intake and top back exhasut 140mm in place. More fans become more noisy anyways. If i don't add the 120mm would there not still be positive pressure? Since we then have two 140mm fans (though one behind a filter), but also the fan from the PSU (which ironically is a SeaSonc X series which has a setting which makes it fan-less when not drawing a lot of power. But let's ignore that for now).
No fan out? Isn't it the total of air being taken in versus pulling out? Positive pressure doesn't mean you can't use exhaust fans or am i missing something?
Yea, Skyrim is affected, but its still a game he should be able to max out with a GTX760 paired with it.
And is there really much difference between say, an i3-3220 and an FX-6300? The AMD is still cheaper and has the extra core advantage, which should help for newer games. Dual core seems to be getting outdated pretty quickly.
Two fans would just be balanced pressure, not accounting for the slight differences in restriction.
I mean, you are the one deciding where intake is coming from. When you have more fans exhausting, air will come in from all sorts of different places that you have no control over.
Did you look at the charts I posted? We're talking about the 8350 getting smoked by i3s, let alone the 6300.
The FX-6300 is basically a hyper threaded tri-core. The i3 is a hyper threaded dual core. Not much of a difference. It will not help with newer games when the IPC of Vishera chips is as bad as it is.
On top of all of that, with an i3 you have the option to upgrade to an i5 or i7 at a later date. You get lots of SATA 6, PCI-E 3.0, lower TDP, and better motherboards. With an FX-6300, you can upgrade to an 8350 which is not a gaming proc either.
*edit*
Read this.
Yeah I'd favour the i3 too with Haswell giving it a further advantage over the older IB ones. The FX 6300 would be alright if it was a fair bit cheaper than the i3 but the price is too close to make an argument for the AMD processor.
The only AMD CPU that might be worth considering is the new Athlon X4s when they come out on the back of the Kaveri launch, but obviously we'll need to wait for reviews on them.
The only AMD CPU that might be worth considering is the new Athlon X4s when they come out on the back of the Kaveri launch, but obviously we'll need to wait for reviews on them.
Agreed. Kaveri is very exciting for budget builds.
It'll be interesting to see if they can finally match Sandy Bridge IPC with Steamroller. The fact that there are motherboards like the Gigabyte G1 gives me some hope that it might actually be a worthwhile update but I'm not going to get my hopes up.
Any 1155 board will from H61 to Z77.
Any 1155 board will from H61 to Z77.
You should have seen my pre-Bulldozer AMD hype. I was so stoked to finally upgrade my 970. I learned my lesson on tempering expectations.
Thanks. Any reason to go z77 or h77 ? Going don't really need sli or cf or but will want to get an i5 k and maybe OC
need a z board for oc.
Go Z77 then. What sort of budget do you have?
NoRéN;93222247 said:
Bout 200
Have processor and ps from friend.
300 for mem mobo and case
Found 35 dollar case and 4 gigs of mem 79.99 mobo z77
The ASUS Z77 LK is a good board, $105 after rebate and discount code http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
You'll not go far wrong with it for the price. If you want to spend more I can give you other higher end options.
maneil99
Member
How often should I clean my PC? I have no pets but occasionly eat and drink by my desk, I keep my area pretty clean and have wooden floors. I have a Coolermaster 912 Case. I had it cleaned when I took it to NCIX in augest. I'm also scared because its below my desk and has an open top. Can dust get in or is the positive air flow able to keep it out. Always svcared I am going to short circuit it.
Also my Comrpessed air smells like fish, wtf
Also my Comrpessed air smells like fish, wtf
Celcius
°Temp. member
I've got a 256gb Samsung 840 Pro and Samsung Magician is showing low Random Write IOPS Any tips to get it up to par? I've got Intel Rapid Storage Technology installed as well as all of the drivers from the cd. I'm also running it under the "maximum performance" OS Optimization option. ACHI is enabled and I'm using the Intel Sata 3 port on my Asus P8Z68V-Pro Gen3 motherboard.
Edit: Updated my chipset drivers and now all is well.
Edit: Updated my chipset drivers and now all is well.
Can anyone suggest a build with a $600-700 price range? I heard the new amd r9 270 is pretty good but seriously I have no idea what I'm doing 
even after reading the OP, it's overwhelming. I just want to play Titanfall/source games in march at high settings at 60fps so I'm in no rush at all.
even after reading the OP, it's overwhelming. I just want to play Titanfall/source games in march at high settings at 60fps so I'm in no rush at all.TheFLYINGManga_Ka
Member
Hey guys, what PSU power do you recommend for a gtx 780 sc w/acx? Will it matter if it's 700 or 850w?
Thanks.
Thanks.
maneil99
Member
650w is good enough, if you are thinking sli get 850w. Make sure its good though
TheFLYINGManga_Ka
Member
Thanks.
By the way, would more power do anything with a single gpu, like say 750 or 850? Any negative effects?
CrookedRain
Member
WOOOT
Got used ASUS P8Z77-V LX for 40$ and i bought Kingstone DDR3 1600 4GB.
Question:
Is it worth to pay extra for k version of 3570 ? I mean even non k 3570 should do some OC and i am not quite sure that my mobo will do just fine with better OC of CPU.
Still i consider for my next upgrade adding another HD6870 or maybe i will invest in R290...
Got used ASUS P8Z77-V LX for 40$ and i bought Kingstone DDR3 1600 4GB.
Question:
Is it worth to pay extra for k version of 3570 ? I mean even non k 3570 should do some OC and i am not quite sure that my mobo will do just fine with better OC of CPU.
Still i consider for my next upgrade adding another HD6870 or maybe i will invest in R290...
My point is if it is worth it. As i looked stock without K goes max +400Mhz. Which would put it at 3.8Ghz
K goes to even 4.6 on good mobo.
Now if i consider i have cheaper mobo i will get something more like 4.2 - 4.3 which would be difference of only 400-500Mhz which is small.
oh i saw 3470 benchmarks..
No reason to buy 3570k or without k. 3470 can be OC up to 3.8 on stock cooling cost way less and with changed cooling it can go to even 4.1-4.2.
aaaaand done. Bought for 170$ including tax.
I wonder if my 775 mugen scythe will fit somehow to 1150.. but i doubt it.
maneil99
Member
3570k's turbo boost to 3.8ghz at stock
Also 3570k is 1155 not 1150 and some coolers have new mounting kits
maneil99
Member
So now I am sketching out, anyone else here have a open top PC? My 912 has an open top for optional exhaut. Anyway, I am sketching the fuck out, my keyboard tray lines up above it and has ball bearings, the last desk I had had all the bearings fall out, im just thinking if it happens again it will go inside my pc :S
Anyone have experience with the 10% off promo by using Masterpass on Newegg (or anywhere)? I'm thinking about buying the CPU cooler, SSD, and HDD off Newegg and be done with it lol. Prices are below.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $217.74)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $149.99)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (Purchased For $109.99)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($169.95 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.95 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $74.99)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $64.99)
Total: $1188.57
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-10 21:14 EST-0500)
With the 10% promo, the Noctua NH-D14 will be $76.49, Sammy 840 EVO will be $152.96, and the WD HDD will be $59.36. That totals $288.81 vs the original $320.89.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $217.74)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $149.99)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (Purchased For $109.99)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($169.95 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.95 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $74.99)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $64.99)
Total: $1188.57
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-10 21:14 EST-0500)
With the 10% promo, the Noctua NH-D14 will be $76.49, Sammy 840 EVO will be $152.96, and the WD HDD will be $59.36. That totals $288.81 vs the original $320.89.
maneil99
Member
How did you get the 4770k so cheap
About a week before Black Friday, someone posted here that microcenter has the i7 4770K for $200 and I got to price match it at Staples. A good number of GAF users here did the same before it went OOS on the Staples website.
Remachinate
Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Z87I-DELUXE Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($185.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($236.98 @ B&H)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($35.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $856.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-10 21:34 EST-0500)
I put together the above tentative build for a living room console equivalent, using the CM 120 SFF build as a general guideline, but as it's my first PC build ever, I'm second guessing some of my choices:
1) Would upgrading to an i5 CPU be worth the extra $55?
2) Am I going overboard with the motherboard? The Z87I seems closest to the recommended but discontinued P8H77-I, but it's a lot more expensive than something like the MSI H81I. Does the ASUS have some quality of life features that make it worth the premium?
3) Will the plastic on the RAM make them too tight to fix next to each other on the MB? I've read elsewhere about bulk causing issues.
4) Would the GTX 670 add enough longevity to be worth an extra $45?
5) For someone who won't try to overclock, at least at first, is the stock heatsink good enough?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new to the PC building game. Any other comments on the build are welcomed.
CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Z87I-DELUXE Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($185.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($236.98 @ B&H)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($35.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $856.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-10 21:34 EST-0500)
I put together the above tentative build for a living room console equivalent, using the CM 120 SFF build as a general guideline, but as it's my first PC build ever, I'm second guessing some of my choices:
1) Would upgrading to an i5 CPU be worth the extra $55?
2) Am I going overboard with the motherboard? The Z87I seems closest to the recommended but discontinued P8H77-I, but it's a lot more expensive than something like the MSI H81I. Does the ASUS have some quality of life features that make it worth the premium?
3) Will the plastic on the RAM make them too tight to fix next to each other on the MB? I've read elsewhere about bulk causing issues.
4) Would the GTX 670 add enough longevity to be worth an extra $45?
5) For someone who won't try to overclock, at least at first, is the stock heatsink good enough?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new to the PC building game. Any other comments on the build are welcomed.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Not at all, I've done it myself. $50 is worth it to have your OS and main apps on an SSD.
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