"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Heh, that's pretty awesome then.

Man I'm pissed. I've never done in mail-in rebate before, so I didn't know you had to keep the boxes your stuff came in because you need to cut out the barcode from them and send it in. I threw away my monitor box, so there's $20 out the window.
 
PlayALLtheGames said:
I was going to upgrade right before BF4 to a 4770k and a GTX780, two Samsung 840 Pros in RAID. Mobo and RAM will be needed, too.

Now I'm getting antsy and wondering if I should just do it now. With only a few months, how much cheaper is that hardware really going to get? I don't expect any official price cuts before then. Does anyone else?

Granted, my current setup is pretty good: 2600k, GTX 590, two Corsair Force GT SSDs in RAID, but I figure I can get a decent amount selling those and take a nice chunk out of the total price for the new equipment.

The 590 is starting to show its age a bit. I just got a 30" monitor and some of the newer games on 2560x1600 dip below 30fps on max settings. I figure I can resolve that and be ready for BF4, but I've normally been the kind of person who, whenever I decide to upgrade, force myself to wait a few more months after that.

Should I wait?
Click to expand...

I think there might be a very big chance that Nvidia drop the price on the 780 with the release of the 9970. Back in 2008 Nvidia launched the 280 at $650 and just one month later they dropped the price to $500 in respond to the 4870, not only that but they dropped the price yet again to $450 few weeks later too.

Ofc AMD was in much better shape back then but I'm just telling you that everything is possible.
 
Just put this build together.
FX-8320 8-Core overclocked to 4.3 GHz, 212 Evo cooler, ASRock 990 FX Extreme 4, Crucial Ballistix 2 x 8 GB DDR3-1866, Samsung 840 Pro 128 GB SSD, Seagate 1 TB HDD, XFX 7870 2 GB, Corsair CX 600w, in a Corsair 300R case. I'll clean it up once I get to my final stable overclock.

Taken on a crappy phone camera.
 
kharma45 said:
Have you tried doing a clean install of the drivers to see if that helps? It's either that or you've been unlucky and got a faulty card, and unless you've went for a reference model that isn't AMD's fault it's the OEMs.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers a few times actually. I decided to just send it back to Sapphire and get a replacement since I'm past my 30 days with Newegg.

Whats a reference model?
 
Roland1979 said:
Never change Windows sensitivity. From what i understand it's not linear but exponential, making it totally unreliable. leave it at default. what should be the sixth notch. Also make sure that "Enhance pointer precision" is OFF. So use higher DPI settings if necessary.
Click to expand...

I turned off Enhanced pointer precision and it makes moving so unpredictable. I just can't get use to the mamba, no setting feels right at all. Its like I get close to something and it takes me a few seconds to actually hover over it. If I had to describe it, the cursor doesn't seem to move smoothly, like I'm running in 30hz or something.

The only thing I haven't messed with is "Acceleration" in the shitty mamba software. What should that be set to?
 
What happened between
c50f3b1e_pabp5.png
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and

mkenyon said:
ALMOST DONE

rdkP0pU.png
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BUILD LOGS!
Need a copper pipe fitting and bending write up! I did the sleeving your turn now =P
 
My GOODNESS was that not the most scary thing I've done in a while. Plug in the res/pump, slluuuuuuuuurp WOOSH - sucks up a cup of water and I wait a few seconds and pray to God that nothing starts leaking everywhere. It's like - in three seconds - a good three months of my work and $4K could go to waste.

But luckily, everything filled up fine. There are quite a few air bubbles. And I can hear some "sloshing" in the tubes and in the blocks, so I imagine that's more air that I'll need to work out. But after watching it for twenty minutes - no leaks. It's running now, I'll top of the res in a bit, and let it run all night. And I'm hoping no disasters in the morning. Wish me luck, please!

9267060580_af89cd1d47_c.jpg
 
Skel1ingt0n said:
My GOODNESS was that not the most scary thing I've done in a while. Plug in the res/pump, slluuuuuuuuurp WOOSH - sucks up a cup of water and I wait a few seconds and pray to God that nothing starts leaking everywhere. It's like - in three seconds - a good three months of my work and $4K could go to waste.

But luckily, everything filled up fine. There are quite a few air bubbles. And I can hear some "sloshing" in the tubes and in the blocks, so I imagine that's more air that I'll need to work out. But after watching it for twenty minutes - no leaks. It's running now, I'll top of the res in a bit, and let it run all night. And I'm hoping no disasters in the morning. Wish me luck, please!
Click to expand...

I would wait till tomorrow and run it during the day so you can watch the water level. Then run it all night tomorrow night. Just worried the pump will run dry during the night, there is still a lot of air in the loop

Looking pretty slick with the monsoons
 
scogoth said:
I would wait till tomorrow and run it during the day so you can watch the water level. Then run it all night tomorrow night. Just worried the pump will run dry during the night, there is still a lot of air in the loop

Looking pretty slick with the monsoons
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice! It's been running for about 2hrs, and only dropped another quarter inch. I topped it off, and the res is full. I'll probably go to bed at 11pm, set an alarm for 3am, check it, and then wake up for real at 6am and check it again. I think it'll be okay. I can't run it tomorrow as no one is home for a solid 12+ hours. And I travel Monday, so I'd really like to get everything hooked up and running by Sunday. We'll see, though... I'm still dreading realizing that something is DOA.
 
If you split a fan into 3 headers, for example what the fan controller that comes with the R3, does it create an audible whine for having to increase voltage, also makes your fans slower because it might not be able to take enough voltage to run 3 fans off 1 fan pin on your motherboard?
 
Skel1ingt0n said:
Thanks for the advice! It's been running for about 2hrs, and only dropped another quarter inch. I topped it off, and the res is full. I'll probably go to bed at 11pm, set an alarm for 3am, check it, and then wake up for real at 6am and check it again. I think it'll be okay. I can't run it tomorrow as no one is home for a solid 12+ hours. And I travel Monday, so I'd really like to get everything hooked up and running by Sunday. We'll see, though... I'm still dreading realizing that something is DOA.
Click to expand...

Or maybe if it dropped only a quarter inch you will be fine. My loop was thirsty for about 3 days but my res is much smaller.
 
Lion Heart said:
I turned off Enhanced pointer precision and it makes moving so unpredictable. I just can't get use to the mamba, no setting feels right at all. Its like I get close to something and it takes me a few seconds to actually hover over it. If I had to describe it, the cursor doesn't seem to move smoothly, like I'm running in 30hz or something.

The only thing I haven't messed with is "Acceleration" in the shitty mamba software. What should that be set to?
Click to expand...

Acceleration should be off.
 
Welp this sucks.

My PC won't start. It was working completely fine this afternoon. I unplugged it to clean it out and now it won't boot.

My monitors aren't getting a signal from my GPU and the internal speaker that normally beeps when the computer is booting doesn't make a sound.

I can't figure out what's wrong with it and I don't have the money to build a new one right now.
 
Coldsnap said:
What's the best z68 motherboard I can buy to overclock my i5 2500k? I'm getting a Corsair 350D and a H100i cooler.

Seems like ASUS Maximus IV Extreme Z68 is the answer but it's not available anywhere it seems.

Could get it off ebay, although It would be nice to get something with amazon prime so I can send it back quickly if broken.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-MAXIMU...060685883?pt=Motherboards&hash=item257ff7083b
Click to expand...

You're better of getting a z77 mobo instead, like the ASUS Maximus V GENE or if you want to spend a little less the Gigabyte G1.Sniper M3.

@Skel1ingt0n

If it runs without leaks for a few hours and the water level is stable then you're fine. So I'd say test it for a few more hours and if it doesn't leak you're probably good to turn it on. If there is a bit or air in the loop that's no big deal, it'll disappear after a while as long as the pump is running at a reasonable speed. I usually run furmark for a while to warm the water up a bit, which also seems to get the air out quicker.
 
Coldsnap said:
What's the best z68 motherboard I can buy to overclock my i5 2500k? I'm getting a Corsair 350D and a H100i cooler.

Seems like ASUS Maximus IV Extreme Z68 is the answer but it's not available anywhere it seems.

Could get it off ebay, although It would be nice to get something with amazon prime so I can send it back quickly if broken.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-MAXIMU...060685883?pt=Motherboards&hash=item257ff7083b
Click to expand...


You're better off getting the H80i cooler, it's actually the better one, the 80i has a deeper radiator which helps it cool better.
 
Well after looking at it and rearranging stuff it ended up literally booting, shutting down and booting again over and over until I physically kicked the piece if shit. Now it's booted into Windows and working properly. I don't want to turn it off though, just in case this happens again.

Fuck this computer, I'm tired of it.
 
xJavonta said:
Well after looking at it and rearranging stuff it ended up literally booting, shutting down and booting again over and over until I physically kicked the piece if shit. Now it's booted into Windows and working properly. I don't want to turn it off though, just in case this happens again.

Fuck this computer, I'm tired of it.
Click to expand...
Maybe a mobo jumper broke,thats what happened in my case.
 
Coldsnap said:
How come you say so, to go z77? Just want to understand my decision. Thanks!
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Z77 has native usb3, PCI-e 3.0 and in general z77 boards are better than the older z68 variants. The difference isn't huge but still there really is no reason to go with z68 these days if you're buying new.
 
Mad Max said:
Z77 has native usb3, PCI-e 3.0 and in general z77 boards are better than the older z68 variants. The difference isn't huge but still there really is no reason to go with z68 these days if you're buying new.
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Gotcha cool thanks. Good news because Amazon has the z77 Maximus. You got any recommendation for RAM on this thing? I'm looking at Corsair Vengence 8GB in red.
 
knitoe said:
With SSDs, if you write or test too much within a short time period, they will severely drop performance to protect against damage. Run them normal for a few days and the performance should return.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. Didn't know that. I'll test it again in a few days.
 
Had a pretty shit evening. First I lost out on that $20 rebate. Then we realized that my PC case is missing its frontal fan blades. Obviously a manufacturer's error, because the fan has a motor and wires, just no blades. I emailed them asking if they could possibly just send a replacement fan, because my computer is almost fully assembled so it would be a gigantic hassle to return the whole case at this point.

Well fuck it, whatever, my PC was now fully assembled, ready to rock. I downloaded the Windows 7 ISO and converted it to the USB format with the Microsoft tool. Plugged it in, Windows setup came on, looking good. But wait, it couldn't find my HDD. We tried and tried, but it wouldn't recognize that I had a hard drive. We Googled it, and there were several fixes, like putting the flash drive in a USB 2.0 instead of 3.0. That didn't work. Another fix where you unplug your flash drive and put it into another USB slot, no dice.

It was during that time where we also realized that my optical drive was not powering on. We plugged it into my friend's PC and it didn't work either. Looks like it's DoA. Awesome, I already threw away the box it came in. It's ok though, because my friend had a spare optical drive at another friend's house. We got it and plugged it into my PC, and immediately it made a crackling noise and smelled like it was burnt. My friend turned off my PC and we checked it out. Yep, the optical drive was completely fried. Hope his buddy won't be too mad.

We called it a night there. I don't even know what to think. Is it my PSU that fried the optical drives? The first one never smelled burnt or made a crackling noise. Everything else seems to be running smoothly. And then there's the whole Windows not finding my hard drive.

Goddamn it.
 
Sucks to hear. What model PSU is it?
Sounds like it could be a power issue. Have you tried another SATA port? Assembled the bare minimum outside the case to check for shorts?
Something like not using standoffs, a loose screw, or no IO shield can cause these things.
 
Coldsnap said:
Gotcha cool thanks. Good news because Amazon has the z77 Maximus. You got any recommendation for RAM on this thing? I'm looking at Corsair Vengence 8GB in red.
Click to expand...

Corsair vengeance is pretty good ram, just get one of the 1600MHz or 1866MHz variants as faster clocked ram won't really improve anything.
 
Hey guys my current PC is crapping out on me so I'm looking to build a new machine. The last build I made was actually the $600 budget build from this thread in 2008 so it's been a good while!

Budget: $600~
Main Use: Gaming, Photo Editing, Light video work

Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080. Currently using an Asus VH236H.

Re-usable parts: Right now I have a 5850 I'm planning on holding me over until I can afford a better card. I'm mainly on a dota grind right now so it should be perfectly fine but I'd like to upgrade in the future. I also have a OCZ500MXSP power supply from my old build and was wondering if it would be enough for a i5 3570k or if I should look into a new one.

Planning to build in the next few weeks

Will you be overclocking?: Yes (hopefully?)

I'm looking to get a SSD for the OS as well as one or two games. Do you think I'd be able to fit that into my budget? Thanks GAF!
 
hwateber said:
Hey guys my current PC is crapping out on me so I'm looking to build a new machine. The last build I made was actually the $600 budget build from this thread in 2008 so it's been a good while!

Budget: $600~
Main Use: Gaming, Photo Editing, Light video work

Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080. Currently using an Asus VH236H.

Re-usable parts: Right now I have a 5850 I'm planning on holding me over until I can afford a better card. I'm mainly on a dota grind right now so it should be perfectly fine but I'd like to upgrade in the future. I also have a OCZ500MXSP power supply from my old build and was wondering if it would be enough for a i5 3570k or if I should look into a new one.

Planning to build in the next few weeks

Will you be overclocking?: Yes (hopefully?)

I'm looking to get a SSD for the OS as well as one or two games. Do you think I'd be able to fit that into my budget? Thanks GAF!
Click to expand...

Your PSU is OK so we can stick with it, and if you're happy with the 5850 it would probably continue to tide you over. SSD is doable, but would mean sacrificing the 3770K for a 3570K. These are prices with Microcentre, if you don't have one nearby it works out at $615.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($125.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($108.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Microcenter)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Microcenter)
Total: $594.92
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-12 05:51 EDT-0400)

Edit - Shit no HDD, guess you could drop down to 8GB of RAM and fit one in, but 16GB is more comfortable for media work.

Coldsnap said:
Gotcha cool thanks. Good news because Amazon has the z77 Maximus. You got any recommendation for RAM on this thing? I'm looking at Corsair Vengence 8GB in red.
Click to expand...

Don't get the stupid tall stuff.

HammerOfThor said:
Yeah, I uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers a few times actually. I decided to just send it back to Sapphire and get a replacement since I'm past my 30 days with Newegg.

Whats a reference model?
Click to expand...

One that looks like this. They're the only real AMD ones.

HD7950-1.jpg


Yeah RMA it and see, sounds like you've been unlucky as the 7950 is a pretty awesome card even after a year and a half of being on sale or whatever it is at this stage.
 
IvanI said:
Should I leave the Write Cache OFF for Samsung 840 Pro or turn it on?
The drive has 512MB LPDDR2 SDRAM cache...
Click to expand...

If Write Caches are not battery-backed, you will have hard drive corruption in event of a power loss.

If you have a backup drive and are on a laptop with a battery, you can make a decision of how much of a risk that is and consider turning it on for increased I/O.

Note that this is for traditional HDDs. Not sure if it changes for SSDs, but I wouldn't think it would.
 
This is what I'm thinking of getting. The key things for me were, the GTX650, 8GB RAM and a 1TB HDD. Other things that I need are on there, like the wireless adapter. Things I might get later but don't need right now aren't on there, like an SSD.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£167.99 @ Aria PC)

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£23.62 @ Scan.co.uk)

Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£101.88 @ Dabs)

Memory: Corsair 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£51.47 @ Scan.co.uk)

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£49.91 @ Ebuyer)

Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 650 2GB Video Card (£95.97 @ Dabs)

Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter (£26.96 @ Amazon UK)

Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£47.98 @ Amazon UK)

Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply (£35.82 @ Dabs)

Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£68.35 @ CCL Computers)

Total: £669.95 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-12 14:23 BST+0100)

What would be handy is if someone could perhaps talk me down from an i5 to an i3 since I really only assume I'll need an i5. Also I'm fairly clueless about MOBOs so if someone could reccomend me a cheaper, more suitable one that would be cool.
 
dapperbandit said:
This is what I'm thinking of getting. The key things for me were, the GTX650, 8GB RAM and a 1TB HDD. Other things that I need are on there, like the wireless adapter. Things I might get later but don't need right now aren't on there, like an SSD.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£167.99 @ Aria PC)

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£23.62 @ Scan.co.uk)

Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£101.88 @ Dabs)

Memory: Corsair 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£51.47 @ Scan.co.uk)

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£49.91 @ Ebuyer)

Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 650 2GB Video Card (£95.97 @ Dabs)

Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter (£26.96 @ Amazon UK)

Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£47.98 @ Amazon UK)

Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply (£35.82 @ Dabs)

Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£68.35 @ CCL Computers)

Total: £669.95 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-12 14:23 BST+0100)

What would be handy is if someone could perhaps talk me down from an i5 to an i3 since I really only assume I'll need an i5. Also I'm fairly clueless about MOBOs so if someone could reccomend me a cheaper, more suitable one that would be cool.
Click to expand...

Don't get a Caviar Green, too slow. Caviar Blue instead http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0088PUEPK/

Swap the RAM to this http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006YG94Y2/

Get PowerLine adapters instead of WiFi http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004INVKP4/

That PSU is pretty average, change it to this http://www.dabs.com/products/xfx-45...4_1373636334_2c1f58cdf22ea1e710e1b792a851e6e3 Maplin do them too for £35 if your local has stock

That is a great mobo, stick with it. I wouldn't have recommended it in the other thread otherwise :P Stick with the i5 too, the i3 is starting to be stretched a bit. I'd recommend a better GPU too, 650 is pretty poor. Either go for a 7850 (with 2 free games) http://www.ebuyer.com/390921-sapphi...-displayport-pci-e-graphics-card-11200-14-20g or a 650 Ti Boost http://www.scan.co.uk/products/2gb-...8mhz-gddr5-gpu-1032mhz-cores-768-dport-dl-dvi I'd go with the 7850 myself.

I know this pushes your budget up but if you're going to do it you might as well do it right. You can save money on W7 here too http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004Q0PT3I/

Here's the build I did for you in the other thread slightly tweaked. Took out the SSD and added a copy of Windows

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£172.50 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.99 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£101.88 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£50.39 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£47.98 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£51.87 @ Dabs)
Other: Sapphire HD 7850 OC Edition 2GB Dual DVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card With FREE Never Settle Reloaded download coupon (£136.98)
Other: Crucial BLS2CP4G3D1609DS1S00CEU Sport 8GB Kit (4GBx2), Ballistix 240-pin DIMM, DDR3 PC3-12800 Memory Module (£47.25)
Other: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium with Service Pack 1, 64-bit, English, 1 Pack, DSP OEI (PC) (This OEM software is intended for system builders only) (£53.89)
Total: £687.73
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-12 14:48 BST+0100)
 
dapperbandit said:
This is what I'm thinking of getting. The key things for me were, the GTX650, 8GB RAM and a 1TB HDD. Other things that I need are on there, like the wireless adapter. Things I might get later but don't need right now aren't on there, like an SSD.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£167.99 @ Aria PC)

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£23.62 @ Scan.co.uk)

Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£101.88 @ Dabs)

Memory: Corsair 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£51.47 @ Scan.co.uk)

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£49.91 @ Ebuyer)

Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 650 2GB Video Card (£95.97 @ Dabs)

Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter (£26.96 @ Amazon UK)

Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£47.98 @ Amazon UK)

Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply (£35.82 @ Dabs)

Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£68.35 @ CCL Computers)

Total: £669.95 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-12 14:23 BST+0100)

What would be handy is if someone could perhaps talk me down from an i5 to an i3 since I really only assume I'll need an i5. Also I'm fairly clueless about MOBOs so if someone could reccomend me a cheaper, more suitable one that would be cool.
Click to expand...
If you can,find a good deal on GTX 650ti Boost OC.
 
kharma45 said:
Don't get a Caviar Green, too slow. Caviar Blue instead http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0088PUEPK/

Swap the RAM to this http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006YG94Y2/

Get PowerLine adapters instead of WiFi http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004INVKP4/

That PSU is pretty average, change it to this http://www.dabs.com/products/xfx-45...4_1373636334_2c1f58cdf22ea1e710e1b792a851e6e3 Maplin do them too for £35 if your local has stock

That is a great mobo, stick with it. I wouldn't have recommended it in the other thread otherwise :P Stick with the i5 too, the i3 is starting to be stretched a bit. I'd recommend a better GPU too, 650 is pretty poor. Either go for a 7850 (with 2 free games) http://www.ebuyer.com/390921-sapphi...-displayport-pci-e-graphics-card-11200-14-20g or a 650 Ti Boost http://www.scan.co.uk/products/2gb-...8mhz-gddr5-gpu-1032mhz-cores-768-dport-dl-dvi I'd go with the 7850 myself.

I know this pushes your budget up but if you're going to do it you might as well do it right. You can save money on W7 here too http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004Q0PT3I/

Here's the build I did for you in the other thread slightly tweaked. Took out the SSD and added a copy of Windows

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£172.50 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.99 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£101.88 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£50.39 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£47.98 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£51.87 @ Dabs)
Other: Sapphire HD 7850 OC Edition 2GB Dual DVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card With FREE Never Settle Reloaded download coupon (£136.98)
Other: Crucial BLS2CP4G3D1609DS1S00CEU Sport 8GB Kit (4GBx2), Ballistix 240-pin DIMM, DDR3 PC3-12800 Memory Module (£47.25)
Other: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium with Service Pack 1, 64-bit, English, 1 Pack, DSP OEI (PC) (This OEM software is intended for system builders only) (£53.89)
Total: £687.73
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-12 14:48 BST+0100)
Click to expand...

You trully are the wise and amiable guru, Kharma. Thank you.

And the thing is not even £20 more expensive, great.
 
One thing, wireless adaptors.

Do you guys tend to go for wired setups? I never see them listed in any specs. The way my place is wired though, it would be more practical to go wireless.
 
dapperbandit said:
You trully are the wise and amiable guru, Kharma. Thank you.

And the thing is not even £20 more expensive, great.
Click to expand...

dapperbandit said:
One thing, wireless adaptors.

Do you guys tend to go for wired setups? I never see them listed in any specs. The way my place is wired though, it would be more practical to go wireless.
Click to expand...

Practical maybe but you're using a desktop, so it'll be next to a power outlet. Powerline adapters are the best solution. They pass internet through the electrical cables in your home and wherever you have an adapter plugged in you can get internet. So for this set up the twin pack I suggested would have two adapters, one to go in beside your router to be the main hub and the second acts as a node to relay the internet, and it'd plug in beside your PC.

For example here's my set up with my router

Z3FXmiY.jpg
Click to expand...

Then I've others scattered around the house at various power outlets to give internet

dapperbandit said:
I hadn't spotted this. I didn't even know this was a thing...does it provide the same signal strength as being directly wired to a router?
Click to expand...

Yeah it's the same signal strength. You might notice a very small decrease in speed (depends on the quality of your wiring) but in the two houses I've used it in it has been as quick as being connected to the router, and latencies were the same too.

Raymo said:
Wha...What is this sourcery? That is awesome. It really works that well? I'm interested.
Click to expand...

Oh it 100% works well, I've got 5 of them at home.
 
kharma45 said:
Practical maybe but you're using a desktop, so it'll be next to a power outlet. Powerline adapters are the best solution. They pass internet through the electrical cables in your home and wherever you have an adapter plugged in you can get internet. So for this set up the twin pack I suggested would have two adapters, one to go in beside your router to be the main hub and the second acts as a node to relay the internet, and it'd plug in beside your PC.

For example here's my set up with my router



Then I've others scattered around the house at various power outlets to give internet



Yeah it's the same signal strength. You might notice a very small decrease in speed (depends on the quality of your wiring) but in the two houses I've used it in it has been as quick as being connected to the router, and latencies were the same too.



Oh it 100% works well, I've got 5 of them at home.
Click to expand...

This is a game changer for me personally. Thanks a lot!
 
How come I can't run games on my PC on 60fps? For example, May Payne is running on 40-50fps, its only 60fps in cutsceenes. I don't get it :-(

I got Titan 6gb gpu.
 
My PC is pretty old but I haven't been bothered much by it since I don't play games on it but as of recent I've been kind of annoyed since HD videos and streams don't work all too well.

Considering that I'm on a really tight budget, I was wondering if someone would be kind enough to put together a cheap build that will be able to do the following without issues:

- Watch HD vids
- Watch higher resolution streams and be able to open a few at a time
- Some Photoshop
 
BadWolf said:
My PC is pretty old but I haven't been bothered much by it since I don't play games on it but as of recent I've been kind of annoyed since HD videos and streams don't work all too well.

Considering that I'm on a really tight budget, I was wondering if someone would be kind enough to put together a cheap build that will be able to do the following without issues:

- Watch HD vids
- Watch higher resolution streams and be able to open a few at a time
- Some Photoshop
Click to expand...

How tight is tight?

Sanjay said:
I refuse to believe in this wizardry.
Click to expand...

Believe it.
 
kennah said:
What are your full specs and what resolution?
Click to expand...

GeForce GTX TITAN 6GB
Intel Core i7-3930K @ 3.2GHz
ASUS P9X79 LE
Crucial DDR3 16GB RAM 1600MHz
Samsung SSD 840 Series 250GB
Corsair H60 Hydro Series
Silver Power SP-S750w
Philips LED Full HD monitor

Should this not be good enough to be able to run games on 60fps?
 
RSTEIN said:
WHAT THE FUCK

How come I've never heard of this before?
Click to expand...

It's a conspiracy, a conspiracy I tell you!

...

No but those powerline adapters seriously work - maybe not for hardcore 4K streaming but for every other sane thing they're great little things. If you have bad wiring throughout your home through maybe better to avoid it though...
 
Ally1987 said:
GeForce GTX TITAN 6GB
Intel Core i7-3930K @ 3.2GHz
ASUS P9X79 LE
Crucial DDR3 16GB RAM 1600MHz
Samsung SSD 840 Series 250GB
Corsair H60 Hydro Series
Silver Power SP-S750w
Philips LED Full HD monitor

Should this not be good enough to be able to run games on 60fps?
Click to expand...

Hmm... should be fine. Is this the only game that is running slow? You should be getting over 90 fps from the benchmarks I can find. Are there any weird processes running in the background? Is your card overheating and downclocking itself?
 
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