As cheap as possible, is something below $300 possible?
I don't intend to use it for gaming.
(forgot to mention in case it matters, I'm in Canada)
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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As cheap as possible, is something below $300 possible?
I don't intend to use it for gaming.
(forgot to mention in case it matters, I'm in Canada)
Where in Canada? Might be able to help you out
Mississauga, Ontario.
Fill out the Survey in the OP - specifically do you have any existing parts like keyboard, mouse, monitor, hard drive and such that you can carry over to a new build? Are you comfortable building yourself? How do you feel about used parts?
Wow. Fantastic! I actually found the same mobo at newegg for about $25 more but it comes with 8 GB of the same ram that you listed. The amount of video editing I do is neglible so I think I'll be okay for the time being. With this swap I can actually throw in a WD Blue 1 TB and still be in my budget. Thanks!
Just a note - that ram is a single stick so you'd be running in Single channel mode, meaning your computer will be 10-15% slower than how it should be running. It's not a HUGE deal, but you'll want to get another MATCHING stick later on to make it run properly.
Ally1987
Member
Nah, The Witcher 2 also. I got Steam and Firefox running in the background, and sometimes Winamp.
Where can I see/tell if my card is overheating and downclocking?
(Sorry for stupid questions, Im a new PC-gamer)
Your Current Specs: 2.9 gigs P4, 512 RAM
Budget: very tight, below $300 if possible
Main Use: Video playback, watching streams, photoshop
Monitor Resolution: using the ASUS Evo monitor, 23 inches
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: HD vids, being able to stream more than one stream at a time, being able to watch higher res streams, some photoshop
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?: Nope
Will you be overclocking?: Nope
I do have a mouse, keyboard, hard drive and monitor that I can carry over. Can also probably carry over stuff like the DVD drive/burner. Never built a PC before. Don't have anything against used, as long as it works okay.
Alrighty, I'm doing a facelift on my PC. Let me know what you think. Goal is to get some better quality components in my machine, finally be able to overclock my i5 2500k and get a good overclock at that, and leave some additional growing room if I decide to get a titan or 780 later this year. I figure if I get my i5 2500k near 4.8GHZ+ then it's worth it to keep around given how haswell has gone.
Old -> New
Fractal Design R3 -> Corsair 350D
Asus P8H67 -> Maximus V Gene Z77
i5 2500k -> Keeping
Corsair CMX4 4gig Ram -> Corsair Vengence 8g
Corsair A50 Heatsink -> Corsair H100i
Corsair 750TX -> Corsair ATX760i
Stock Fractal Design r3 Fans - Corsair 140mm Quiet x 2 Front intake, Corsair 120mm Quiet rear intake, Corsair 120mm performance air pressure exhaust on H100i
Old -> New
Fractal Design R3 -> Corsair 350D
Asus P8H67 -> Maximus V Gene Z77
i5 2500k -> Keeping
Corsair CMX4 4gig Ram -> Corsair Vengence 8g
Corsair A50 Heatsink -> Corsair H100i
Corsair 750TX -> Corsair ATX760i
Stock Fractal Design r3 Fans - Corsair 140mm Quiet x 2 Front intake, Corsair 120mm Quiet rear intake, Corsair 120mm performance air pressure exhaust on H100i
j0hnny_385
Member
Hmm... You're not going to see as much improvement as you'd like with a $300 budget. Unfortunately things in Canada are more expensive than in the states and there is less selection. What is the case you currently have? I'll work on putting something together for you over the next little bit. If you were closer I have some parts you could just have, but I think shipping to you would kill any sort of deal it would be.
Looks awesome. I'd keep your existing powersupply (unless you're going from nonmodular to modular)
Really appreciate that man but I wouldn't be able to just take them.
Not sure what case it is, its a prebuilt MDG desktop from 2004 or so. Its a regular tower looking thing.
How much would a decent one cost for the things i would like to do with it? Maybe I'll try to wait and save up some more.
Cool. Yea it would be going from nonmodular to modular. I was looking at another power supply, but for $40 extra I can get the bells and whistles that come with the ATX670i. I sorta like the idea to be able to see how much power stuff is taking from your power supply, sounds fun.
LAUGHTREY
Modesty becomes a woman
What about memory though? He shows how to put it at a regular clock to work on the CPU, and then never goes back to it. I have no idea what I'm doing there, should I just enter the clock speed and voltage thats on the RAM stick?
Stick to canada computers and NCIX for local pickup to cut shipping costs. Unfortunately all I can chip in is a few fans or something which arent really important on a $300 build
Yeah you'll only get below $300 really if you go used. I've thrown this together but it's still over budget
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: AMD A8-5600K 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($99.50 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: ASRock FM2A75M-DGS Micro ATX FM2 Motherboard ($39.88 @ Canada Computers)
Memory: Patriot Intel Extreme Master, Limited Ed 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($55.25 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.00 @ Vuugo)
Case: BitFenix Merc Beta (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply ($44.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Total: $333.61
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-12 11:51 EDT-0400)
Dual channel RAM config is faster but you'll likely not notice much of a difference.
If you can save up a little while longer to like $600-700 then you can get a decent system with some legs/easy upgradeability.
And gaf has been good to me. There are lots of members that have donated parts to other gaffers in need.
and then egged them into spending 1,200 on an 'upgrade'
I think if you can stretch it out a little bit, reuse your case and accept my offer of a GTX9800 you could probably put together an i3 system for pretty cheap that would do you for quite a while if you are still rocking a p4.
Also fiddling with an AMD A6 build which might do what you want but it is a little tricky to get to under $300
Great advice. Thanks
Ah, good to know.
And thanks.
Really appreciate you taking the time man but I think I'll go with kennah's advice and save up some more to be able to get something a little more future proof.
Thanks for all your help man, yeah guess I'll save up some more and bother you guys again later
Thanks for all your help man, yeah guess I'll save up some more and bother you guys again later
That really is your best bet. We just can't guarantee something you'll be happy with for that budget. Hell, I spent that much money on my last case.
Yeah save more and then come back.
Just leave everything memory related set to auto. Generally speaking your mobo will configure it to work at the correct frequency/voltage. But if it doesn't you can enter the correct values manually.
The important thing to realise here is that you can overclock the cpu and memory independently, as long as you stick to using the multipliers for overclocking and leave the baseclock (BCLK) alone.
For example: The default baseclock (BCLK) is 100MHz for s1155. The cpu clock is then determined by the cpu clock ratio (or multiplier): say you set this to 40, then the cpu will run at 40x100MHz=4GHz.
In the same way the memory clock is determined by the memory multiplier: If you set this to 16 the memory will run at 16x100MHz=1600MHz.
Now when you change the cpu mutliplier to 41 the memory frequency will remain untouched, while the cpu will run at 4.1GHz.
SquiddyCracker
Banned
My PC has been behaving pretty funky lately.
Specs:
Node 304
XFX 7950
i5 3750 OC'd to 4
8GB of Samsung low profile DDR3
Samsung regular 840, 250GB
Some fans, maybe fractal
Coolermaster something CPU cooler
Anyway, when I turn my PC off (not manually, but via windows 8), it does the whole turning off sequence and then the TV goes blue (which it normally does when an input goes inactive). The problem is that the fans are still moving (Chassi, CPU, GPU), the 304 node case light indicator is still lit, and I have no idea why.
The fans stop, and the light indicator becomes unlit, only when I press the power button and hold it for a couple of seconds.
Specs:
Node 304
XFX 7950
i5 3750 OC'd to 4
8GB of Samsung low profile DDR3
Samsung regular 840, 250GB
Some fans, maybe fractal
Coolermaster something CPU cooler
Anyway, when I turn my PC off (not manually, but via windows 8), it does the whole turning off sequence and then the TV goes blue (which it normally does when an input goes inactive). The problem is that the fans are still moving (Chassi, CPU, GPU), the 304 node case light indicator is still lit, and I have no idea why.
The fans stop, and the light indicator becomes unlit, only when I press the power button and hold it for a couple of seconds.
I'm waiting too. During the PR circuit Asus recently did with Youtubers, they brought the Maximus boards with them, but only images of the Impact. I'm guessing engineering just simply isn't finished yet. Apparently we'll hear more this month.
Gaming Truth
Member
I'd like to see what you guys come up with for me:
Questionnaire:
Budget: Reasonable, but not capped
Main Use: 3.5: Gaming and streaming, but I'm also interested in future-proofing, so I'm aiming higher than the intended usage. I'm looking to build a top-of-the-line box without using the top-of-the-line parts
Monitor Resolution: Someday: 2560 x 1440
Games/Apps: I honestly would just like to run at near-max settings, no good reason why. I don't care about PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA, unless I'm supposed to
When will you build?: Soon. No deadline, but my impulse to do this will fade over time
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes?!?)
What I came up with:
Questionnaire:
Budget: Reasonable, but not capped
Main Use: 3.5: Gaming and streaming, but I'm also interested in future-proofing, so I'm aiming higher than the intended usage. I'm looking to build a top-of-the-line box without using the top-of-the-line parts
Monitor Resolution: Someday: 2560 x 1440
Games/Apps: I honestly would just like to run at near-max settings, no good reason why. I don't care about PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA, unless I'm supposed to
When will you build?: Soon. No deadline, but my impulse to do this will fade over time
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes?!?)
What I came up with:
- CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Microcenter)
- CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Microcenter)
- Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 12g Thermal Paste ($17.27 @ Amazon) Do I need 12 grams?
- Motherboard: MSI Z77 MPOWER ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($200.41 @ Amazon)
- Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($159.99 @ Amazon) Thinking of backing down to 1866
- Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($239.99 @ Microcenter)
- Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($649.99 @ Amazon)
- Case: Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
- Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
- Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.99 @ Amazon)
You don't need 2133 RAM, go for cheaper 1600 or 1866 stuff. Low profile stuff too, don't get RAM with silly heat fins. Drop the thermal paste. Change your PSU to this, cheaper and better http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00918MEZG/?tag=neogaf0e-20
840 Pro isn't really worth it imo, go for the standard 840.
Oh I misread the deal. It's actually this that comes with the motherboard. I'm reading some of the newegg feedback though and it seems there are a lot of DoA sticks =\
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148543
FUCKING GREAT DEAL
Only says a lot of DOA sticks because everyone that gets a DOA stick complains, you'll likely be fine.
EDIT: oh, wait, I see, it's 1333 MHz and not the 1.35V stuff. It'll probably overclock to 1600 fine. Still good for free.
Good grief I was wrong again. It's actually THIS one. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148661
Just keeps getting better I guess. Thanks for the solid advice kennah! Putting in an order after work today.
Just keeps getting better I guess. Thanks for the solid advice kennah! Putting in an order after work today.
I've had a problem with screen flickering when gaming since I've had my pc, but I've learned to live with it. I've just bought and installed a GTX780 and the flickering seems to be worse than I remember.
When i'm surfing the web theres no issues at all, only when I put a game on. GTA4 is especially bad, however playing the Walking Dead I couldn't notice any issues at all.
I'm using a 21.5 inch Benq monitor connected via DVI. My specs:
Intel Core I7 - 2600k CPU @ 3.40GHz (OC to 4.6GHz)
Gigabyte GTX 780 3GB GDDR5 Dual-DVI HDMI DisplayPort Windforce 3x 450W Cooling System PCI-E Graphics Card
P8P67 LE motherboard
Corsair 16GB DDR3 1600MHz Vengeance LP Memory
2GB Hard Drive
128 SSD
Windows 7
When i'm surfing the web theres no issues at all, only when I put a game on. GTA4 is especially bad, however playing the Walking Dead I couldn't notice any issues at all.
I'm using a 21.5 inch Benq monitor connected via DVI. My specs:
Intel Core I7 - 2600k CPU @ 3.40GHz (OC to 4.6GHz)
Gigabyte GTX 780 3GB GDDR5 Dual-DVI HDMI DisplayPort Windforce 3x 450W Cooling System PCI-E Graphics Card
P8P67 LE motherboard
Corsair 16GB DDR3 1600MHz Vengeance LP Memory
2GB Hard Drive
128 SSD
Windows 7
You are experiencing Screen Tearing, when a game is refreshing faster than your monitor can handle. There are ways to fix this. Most common is to enable VSYNC. Best way is to buy a 120/144hz monitor.
Thanks for the reply. Just to make sure you know exactly what I mean, it's not flickering as in lines of pixels on the screen or anything, I don't know how to explain it......there are lines 'sort of', put they're more pulsing lines/bars, is this still screen tearing?
Forgot to say, Vsync doesn't do anything to fix the issue
Gaming Truth
Member
Drop it completely or just the amount?
CPU cooler comes with thermal paste
Is it possible for you to record a video and upload it somewhere? Its hard to tell with out seeing the phenomenon. Also try and take a screen shot or record video with fraps. If it doesn't show up in the screenshot than it might be the monitor or the cable.
Completely, the cooler comes with its own.
I'll try fraps and report back.
Nothing like that, (i'm not technically minded so bear with me) that video looks like the graphics themselves are corrupting, my graphics are fine, its just I get these constantly moving (up and down) pulsing lines.
Try a different DVI cable.
Got an iphone or camera or something? can you show us a video?
Either driver issues, DVI cable is dodgy (or the ports even) or it could be that the GPU itself is defective.
Anyone .please ?
Recorded a video using fraps but have no way of uploading it online....however when playing back the video (GTAIV) everything looks fine, but when actually in the game itself I did have the issues I mention.
You need some seriously powerful (read: expensive) hardware to use it. You'll need to run everything at a solid 120 fps to make full use of the monitor.
Nah, if you're pushing more than 60 frames you're still making good use of the monitor/regular windows use is sooo much better.
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