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[Hazaro]

***Part 2 Thread: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=835397***
***Part 2 Thread: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=835397***
***Part 2 Thread: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=835397***


Laptop-GAF and TechSupportGAF - Visit our friends here
120/144Hz LightBoost thread - For all your low frametime (High FPS) needs
2013 High-res PC screenshot thread + PC Down / Super Sampling Thread + PC Bullshot Thread (Amazing) - Beautiful candy for your pupils
Race (and Overclock) your PC Thread - Benchmark and Overclock (With Guides) your new or old PC here
Mechanical Keyboard Talk - Talk about buying expensive and loud clacky things here
Online Security Thread - Surf safe

This OP is a constant work in progress. If you have something to correct, add, or critique please PM me or msg @HazardVG on Twitter.

06/10/2014: Builds updated. Devil's Canyon refresh = slightly cooler, +100-200Mhz OC's. 6/30. http://bit.ly/GAFPC2014P2
08/04/2012: Two useful cooling articles: Case Fan Temps and Positioning - (Bit-Tech), 60 Fans Tested (Vortez)

If you want help with a build fill this out AND try making one of your own from the resources in the OP
Use PCPartPickerhttp://pcpartpicker.com/ to find the best prices and have a nice list of parts (Check if items are in stock!). I highly recommend Amazon, Newegg, and NCIXUS in North America.

[Basic Desktop Questions]

• Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)
• Budget: Price Range + Country
• Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD, 3D/Model work (and what program), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).
• Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?
• List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?
• Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)
• When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?
• Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)

PICKING YOUR PARTS

Anandtech's 'Bench' CPU and GPU Benchmarks - A great resource. Helpful for getting a general idea of performance or comparing hardware.


NeoGAF PC Builds

Mkenyon's Small Form Factor Build Sheet - http://bit.ly/GAFBox2014



Haz's PC Build Sheet - http://bit.ly/GAFPC2014 : This thread: http://bit.ly/GAFPC2014P2

[QUIET OPTIONS]

$50 - BitFenix Comrade

$80 - NZXT H230 . . . . .

$100 - Define R4 . . . . . . . .

$130 - Fractal Define XL R2​

[BUDGET]

$40 - NZXT Source 210 .

$45 - Enermax Ostrog .

$50 - CM N400 . . . . . . . . . .

$60 - Corsair 200R​

[ENHANCED]

$90 - Phanteks Pro . .

$100 - Phanteks Pro Adv .

$100 - CM 690 III . . . . .

$110 - Fractal Arc Midi R2​

[ENTHUSIAST]

$150 Corsair Air 540 . . .

$150 - NZXT H630 . . . .

$240 - Phanteks Primo . . . .

$400 - CaseLabs SM8​

[Micro ATX]

​

$40 - Silverstone PS08

$100 - Corsair Air 240 .

$100 - Define Mini . . . . . . .

$110 - Node 804​

• For audio equipment, also check out Headphone GAF
• Mad Lust Envy's Gaming Headphone Guide

These headphones are mainly chosen for positional quality. No budget headsets since most are poor. I suggest going with a 3.5mm mic and Xonar DGX if needed instead.

[HEADSETS]

$80 - Func HS-260

$250/300 - Sennheiser 350 SE / 363D - 363D are open ear, include virtual 7.1 DAC, and are USB.

[HEADPHONES]

$45 - Superlux HD668B

$75 - Creative Aurvana Live!

$150 - BD DT990 250 Ohm Pro

$250 - AKG Q701

[MICS]

$50 - Antlion ModMic 4.0

$3 - DX Clip-on mic (2-6 Week shipping)

[KEYBOARDS]

Mechanical switches are referred to Cherry MX switches. MX Brown = Quiet tactile, MX Blue = loud tactile, MX Black = stiff linear, MX Red = soft linear. Cooler Master University.

$15 - Rosewill RIKB . . . . . .

$15 - MS Keyboard 200

$50 - Corsair K30

$90 - CM Quickfire Stealth

$90 - CM Quickfire XT . .

$180 - CM Novatouch TKL

[PERFORMANCE MICE]

Speed, accuracy, and sensor customization are valued here.

Spawn is an amazing value designed for claw and hybrid grips as it centers weight right under claw grip. If you absolutely love the MX518 shape, then the G400S is a good choice at $45, but is outperformed by the Rival and M45. The Corsair is a better fit for strict palm grip with large hands, and for those who prefer a heavier mouse. The Rival is lighter and is good with palm and hybrid grips and has great software.

$35 - CM Storm Spawn

$45 - Logitech G400S .

$60 - Corsair M45 . .

$60 - SteelSeries Rival

[AMBIDEXTROUS AND MMO MICE]

For those extra buttons over a very precise sensor.

The Recon has a great sensor and firmware for the price, as well as an ambi grip. The Sensei does as well, and has the best sensor here. The M95's side button layout is the best of the MMO oriented mice. G700s is the only wireless mouse listed here.

$35 - CM Storm Recon . .

$60 - SS Sensei Raw

$80 - Corsair M95 . .

$90 - Logitech G700s

[PADS]

For most people, any cheap cloth pad will be fine. These are some other options.

The Ripper XXL is massive, allowing a seamless mousing surface.The CM Storm Control RX is a thicker hybrid design with a lycra surface allowing for easier gliding movements, and is best suited for low CPI/DPI. The CM Storm Power RX is a large textured surface allowing for good control without destroying mouse feet. The Artisan Shiden is a glass coated cloth pad that defies the typical trade-off between textured and smooth surfaces, as it has great control and allows for smooth whips.

$20 - XTrac Ripper XXL

$30 - CM Control-RX . . . .

$35 - CM Power-RX . .

$40-50 - Artisan Shiden L or XL

• What the hell does TN, VA, e-IPS, IPS, and PVA mean?
• What exactly is AA (Anti Aliasing) and how does it affect image quality?
• Scogoth lays out different display connectors. DVI, Dual Link DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort (DP), VGA
• NeoGAF Cheap/Korean 1440p monitor thread
• NeoGAF 120Hz/144Hz monitor thread

[BUDGET]

$140 - ASUS VS229H-P
And any $100-$140 monitor that has decent reviews and is not an lesser brand. Many of the higher monitors also go on steep discounts.

[STANDARD]

$170 - ASUS VS238H-P . .

$170 - ASUS VS239H-P

The 238H is a TN panel with better motion resolution and less input lag. The 239H is an IPS panel with better colors.

[120Hz+ @ 1080p]

$280 - BenQ XL2411Z . . . .

$280 - ASUS VG248QE

$600 - Eizo Foris FG2421

The BenQ XL2411Z is currently the best TN high refresh rate monitor to buy, with a firmware based strobing effect that works with BlurBuster's Strobing Utility. Get the ASUS VG248QE for G-Sync compatibility, module not included. The Eizo is a VA panel with native strobing which allows for very impressive colors with near zero blur.

[1440/4K]

$450 - Nixeus Vue 27 . . . .

$800 - RoG Swift . . . . .

$700 - ASUS PB287Q

The Nixeus Vue is a great H-IPS panel for the money if you're looking for a 1440p panel that has great colors. The panel used is rated A/A+, compared to the typical A- panel used in most of the "Korean IPS" monitors. It also includes a warranty, which is fairly important for a monitor this size. The RoG Swift is a TN panel with a built in G-Sync module, and is capable of 144Hz. Compared to IPS panels, the color consistency won't be as accurate, but motion resolution is near perfect with ULMB, and variable refresh rate with G-Sync will give you a smoother gaming experience on titles you can't run with 8.3ms frame times (120 FPS). The ASUS is the best large 4K monitor you can buy under $1000.

Amazon (Parts)
Newegg (Parts)
NCIX.US (Parts)
Performance-PCs (Cases, Fans Acessories)
Micro Center (Parts and great IN STORE deals)

NCIX (Parts, Assembly, Price Match)
Amazon.CA (Parts)
Canada Computers (Parts) - Eastern Regional
Memory Express (Parts, Assembly, Price Match) - Western Regional
Newegg.CA (Parts, Ships from US)

Novatech (Parts)
Overclockers UK (Parts)
Amazon UK (Parts)
Aria PC (Parts)
Ebuyer (Parts, Custom Built)
Microdirect (Parts)
HardwareVersand (Parts)
Misco (Parts)
Scan (Parts)
Dino PC (Custom Built)
YoYoTech (Custom Built)

PC Case Gear (Parts, Best Online Retailer)
PCDIY (Parts)
CPL (Parts)
Umart (Parts, Cheaper Shipping Outside Victoria)
Scorpion Technology (Parts)
MSY (Parts)
staticICE (Product Finder)

The Tech Report
PC Perspective
AnandTech
TechPowerUp
X-bit labs
HardOCP
Hardware Canucks
Jonnyguru + HardwareSecrets = Legit PSU reviews
Silent PC Review = The quiet side of computing

Ninite A batch downloader and installer for popular programs. A fantastic time saver for any new PC build.
Steam Mover tool for moving Steam games to a different HDD/SSD
Steam Tool Another tool for moving steam games.

MSI Afterburner (aka RivaTuner) allows you to manage GPU overclocking, fan speed/profiles and chart many aspects of your GPU.
CPU-Z - gathers information on your Motherboard, BIOS, CPU, FSB, VCORE voltage and memory timings.
GPU-Z gathers information (Speed, architecture, temps) on your video card and GPU.
Real Temp allows you to monitor the temperature of your CPU core(s).
HWInfo allows you to monitor fan speed, temperature, voltage, etc.
CrystalDiskMark Tests read and write speed of your hard drives.

nVidia Inspector allows you to optimize the display, improve the performance and fully utilize your NVIDIA graphics card.
Radeon Pro allows you to optimize the display, improve the performance and fully utilize your AMD graphics card.
Dxtory / nVidia driver options allows you to limit the frame rate on most games. Excellent for older games or just getting a locked framerate.
Fraps allows you to record real time video, take screen captures and display your FPS.
Open Broadcast Software a streaming and recording program for things like Twitch.TV A free and better competitor to XSplit.

OCCT allows you to stress test your CPU and GPU, along with GPU memory.
Prime95 allows you to stress test your CPU and RAM for stability.
FURMark allows you to stress test your video card.
Memtest86+ allows you to run a full memory scan to deal with the blue screen of death and system errors.

 

[Hazaro]

[Video Build Guides]

The Tech Report - A nicely laid out and compact build guide

TTL OC3D - A more enthusiast build guide that covers some extra things you can do along with cable management

Thermal Paste: Apply as a ~4mm ball to the CPU. Press the heatsink down and tighten. Line method is ok. Application matters way less than you think. If you take the heatsink off, clean it with alcohol and reapply or you will trap air.
That darn CoolerMaster 212: Why won't you install I swear I was good with computers. A handy picture guide.

[Overclocking Guides]

Socket 1155 Overclocking Guide (Sandy, Ivy, 2500K, 3570K, 3770K, all motherboards)
Socket 1150 (Haswell) OC Guide (4670K, 4770K)
3 step guide to overclocking Haswell (Socket 1150, Z87, 4670K, 4770K)
SSD Setup and Tweaking
Video Card Cooler Guide by mkenyon(ZFZ)

[Help! My PC won't turn on/POST/Boot]

• Check your manual for beep codes or debug LED display codes
• Shutoff your PC, switch off the PSU, and unplug the power cable. Wait 10s and hold the power button to drain the remaining power out of the system
• Check your power is on I and the correct Voltage (120V/240V)
• Check that you plugged in the extra motherboard power (4 or 8 pin)
• Reconnect all your cables (Data and Power)
• Try a single stick of memory in the first RAM slot (read your manual), then try the other
• Check for any loose screws or bits in the case and behind the motherboard
• Check that you installed the motherboard standoff screws (Some cases have these pre-installed)
• Remount the GPU on another PCI-E slot, or try no GPU
• As a last step assemble the bare minimum outside the case (PSU, CPU, Heatsink, 1 stick of RAM, nothing else)

[mkenyon's Guide to Efficient Formatting/Windows Installation]

1. Get an ISO of either Windows 7 or Windows 8.
2. While the ISO is downloading, go to your motherboard manufacturer's website to the support section. Locate your motherboard and download the newest Chipset, Audio, USB 3.0, and LAN drivers. If your motherboard has unique features such as the ASUS RoG line, it's a good idea to get the drivers for those as well. Put those on a separate flash drive.
3. Go to NVIDIA or AMD's website and download the latest videocard drivers. Put those on the same flash drive as the motherboard drivers.
4. Next, download the Microsoft USB Installation utility. Use this to put Windows on a Flash Drive.
   
5. If you are installing Windows 7, you'll need to take an extra step of allowing you to choose the proper SKU for installation, as the ISO is Ultimate by default. Once the utility is finished writing the ISO to your Flash Drive, open the drive in Windows Explorer, and locate the 'Sources' folder. In this folder is a file called 'ei.cfg'. Delete that.
6. Next, start the PC with the Flash Drive plugged directly into your rear I/O. Upon boot, go into UEFI/BIOS, as you will need to set the Flash Drive to be the primary boot disk. Once this is completed, restart your system and begin installing Windows.
7. Once you are in, go ahead an put the flash drive in with the drivers. Install those, and reboot.
8. After you reboot, you should be able to run Windows Update, which will most likely install all of the remaining drivers as well as update Windows.
9. When Windows Update finishes, you can go into Device Manager to check if there are any unrecognized devices. If there are, get the drivers for those from your motherboard manufacturer's website.

[SSD Tip and Tools]

SSD Setup and tweak guide [SSDReview]

Disable defragmentation
Description: Defragmenting a hard disk's used space is only useful on mechanical disks with multi-millisecond latencies. Free-space defragmentation may be useful to SSDs, but this feature is not available in the default Windows Defragmenter.
Instructions: Start Menu -> Right-Click Computer -> Manage -> Services and Applications -> Services - > Right-Click Disk Defragmenter -> Startup type: Disabled -> OK

Disable Hibernate
Description: You may free up 1GB of space on the SSD if you have 1GB of memory, 2GB of space if you have 2GB memory. You will lose the hibernation feature which allows the equivalent of quick boots and shutdowns.
Instructions: Start Menu -> Type cmd -> Right-Click the cmd Icon -> Run as Administrator -> Type powercfg -h off -> Type exit

Links to useful SSD tools:
Crystal Mark Bench + NFO Tool
AS-SSD TOOL
Steam Mover Tool

2014 Thread Part 1 + Part 2
2013 Thread Part 1 + Part 2
2012 Thread Part 1 + Part 2
2011 Thread Part 1 + Part 2
2010 Thread / 2009 Thread / 2008 Thread

 

[mkenyon]

Small Form Factor Build Guide
Or, how to build the GAF Box One

Quick note, these builds will be updated in a few weeks with AMD's Kaveri APUs releasing soon. They might shake up a bit more than budget HTPCs.

One of the main factors that one faces when dealing with SFF builds is ensuring that heatsinks and parts fit in the tiny spaces provided. The parts in these build sheets are far less loose in terms of picking out something slightly different. I can only ensure proper clearances on the items that are in the build sheet.

In terms of being able to hold the most powerful hardware, only the CM 120 Elite is limited. So if you want to pack a 280x, 780, or Titan in an ITX enclosure, then you'll want to skip that. From there it's mostly a choice of aesthetics, though the Prodigy/Phenom is the most capable in terms of moving heat.

The AMD APU builds are perfectly good gaming machines if you aren't planning on running anything graphically intensive. Indie games, Source, older titles, and even some newer ones like Dirt will run wonderfully on these systems. You do get what you pay for in terms of performance when you upgrade to the A8 or A10, though the A6 will certainly be able to handle HTPC tasks and light gaming. If you are just looking for an inexpensive computer that will handle browsing, 1080p video, and light gaming, then it's definitely the way to go. The HTPC builds will fit in all of the cases, but I only included them in the two cases that would look acceptable in a media center. That's a subjective call on my part, so if you are smitten with another case design, feel free to apply the HTPC column to any of the other cases.

Also, none of these cases will fit GPUs that are larger than two slots. This means stuff like the Tri-Frozr, Gainward Phantom, ASUS DCuII, and the like. If you have questions about a card in specific, please ask.​

 

[LeeRoyBrown]

Thanks again, I think your enthusiast miniITX build needs an update on the gpu side. I'm building almost the same thing now but with a 290.

 

[mkenyon]

Thanks again, I think your enthusiast miniITX build needs an update on the gpu side. I'm building almost the same thing now but with a 290.

290s and 290xs are $100-$200 over MSRP still.

 

[Tablo]

In the sound department I would like to suggest adding the Sennheiser G4ME ONE/ZERO, refreshes of the 360 and 350 SE headsets, respectively.
I own the ZERO paired with a SoundBlaster Omni USB amp/dac for SBX surround and powering them. 600ohms easily drives the 150ohm ZERO.
Very happy with it, so if you are so inclined I would add the Omni as a cheap and feature rich external sound option, it's 70$ on Amazon and I got it on sale for 50~$.

 

[mkenyon]

TMK, that's the same thing as the 363D, except the 363D comes with a USB DAC.

 

[Katyusha]

That thread title...I'm glad my 2500k is far from being irrelevant. It's probably the best PC related purchase I've ever made.

Second is probably the HD 7950. I had no idea that it would be such a beast when I picked it up on a whim last November

 

[IllumiNate]

Ordered my PC earlier this week. Looking forward to it arriving in the next week or so. Bring on Titanfall!

 

[LeeRoyBrown]

290s and 290xs are $100-$200 over MSRP still.

Not in Australia. It should be based on performance, not some random mining boom ***** in the US.

The 290 is $579 here for the Shappire Tri-X and the 780Ti Asus si $849.

Almost $300 cheaper and you don't lose that much performance.

 

[Tablo]

TMK, that's the same thing as the 363D, except the 363D comes with a USB DAC.

Most probably is fairly similar, though that's yet to be verified, what has changed is instead of that velour type material it's now pretty nice leatherette. For now it's not a great value proposition but seeing as how it just dropped once it goes down from 280$ to something more palatable it's going to be a good option.

What is currently awesome and well priced is the SB Omni, can't overstate how cost effective it is for gamers. Weird thing is the USA version doesn't come with the IR remote control, though it still has the IR port...Kinda feel cheated out there but it's still awesome.

 

[Dictator93]

Not in Australia. It should be based on performance, not some random mining boom ***** in the US.

The 290 is $579 here for the Shappire Tri-X and the 780Ti Asus si $849.

Almost $300 cheaper and you don't lose that much performance.

Well, just hope that the inane mining boom crashes like every other financial fad. Or that people collectively realize it will NOT democratize money or bring about a new wealth equality..

 

[Hazaro]

Let's keep it focused on parts at least for the first few pages please
For a large majority of people who use the guide (75%+), a well priced priced 280 or above is not happening, if it is even in stock at the inflated price.

As always please post or PM comments about the guide, parts, criticisms and suggestions!

Changelog off the top of my head:

• Prices
• Case update
• Headphones update
• Finally added Video Thumbnails (and updated a video guide)
• Trimmed a ton of excess fat from the second post
• Formatted more consistently across both posts
• Massive update to SFF builds (mkenyon)
• Big update to build Spreadsheet
• Renamed two of the builds to make more sense
• Removed Logitech USB Mic and updated ModMic offering
• Cleaned up news for 2014 (Fan article is still really good)
• Updated some of the higher end monitors

Random placeholder links:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GHIPYI/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PIQUB6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IV7OBM/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[mkenyon]

Not in Australia. It should be based on performance, not some random mining boom ***** in the US.

The 290 is $579 here for the Shappire Tri-X and the 780Ti Asus si $849.

Almost $300 cheaper and you don't lose that much performance.

That card won't fit in a number of those cases, and the reference one is too loud. On top of that, you have to start worrying about power limits in a few of the builds (none of the SFX PSUs are safe with that card, IMO), not to mention thermal limits, which means lots more noise.

I will be updating the SFF guide when Kaveri launches, and my hope is that prices on the 290 and 290x normalize to the point where I can begin to include them again. As it is, I can't personally recommend them for a huge portion of people viewing it. If there's a good deal and it works for you though, then that's awesome.

Spoiler

I'm secretly a big time AMD GPU fan because of the value proposition, using a 7970 Matrix @ 1200MHz in my main build even. I'll give them the nod when the time is right.

 

[Bboy AJ]

Ugh, why have those ugly corporate logos on the banner

 

[cuevas. PhD.]

Ugh, why have those ugly corporate logos on the banner

You're right, corsair should be the only one.

 

[Persona7]

Aftermarket coolers always give me problems when I try to install them. I am dreading the new build I am planning.

 

[Vulcano's assistant]

Ugh, why have those ugly corporate logos on the banner

OPs gotta eat too.

 

[Marceles]

Been waiting for the new thread *rubs hands*, time to build my first computer this year

 

[Dennis]

Anyone know when the Intel 8-cores and the Nvidia 800-series are coming out?

 

[TheExodu5]

Great job Haz!

 

[wilflare]

Is it worth buying a new sound card?
currently using an Audinst USB DLC (and yea I use it for gaming...)

 

[Hazaro]

You're right, corsair should be the only one.

Aftermarket coolers always give me problems when I try to install them.

It's quite possible I might add a aftermarket heatsink installation video, it was something I meant to do with the 212, but it's being phased out now.

Always Manual + YouTube.

OPs gotta eat too.

Yeah that would be nice if I got any kickbacks at all. Not on GAF. GOTTA GET THAT WEBSITE UP YA KNO, OH WAIT PCPARTPICKER TAKES ALL THE REFERRAL MONEY

Is it worth buying a new sound card?
currently using an Audinst USB DLC (and yea I use it for gaming...)

I think everyone who is interested should buy a Xonar DGX off Amazon or someplace with hassle free returns and try it out.

 

[mkenyon]

Anyone know when the Intel 8-cores and the Nvidia 800-series are coming out?

Q3 for Haswell-E.

NVIDIA 800 series will likely launch with the Gwhatever104 variant as the top dog, with the Gwhatever110 variant coming out a year later, like they did with Kepler.

 

[Jaxter09]

Not in Australia. It should be based on performance, not some random mining boom ***** in the US.

The 290 is $579 here for the Shappire Tri-X and the 780Ti Asus si $849.

Almost $300 cheaper and you don't lose that much performance.

I've been checking PCCG nearly daily to see when they got it in stock
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26373
2 per customer, already sold out. FFS

 

[Addnan]

I like this guide for the EVO. Hate the video ones. http://www.overclock.net/t/1322128/...-775-1150-1155-1156-1366-2011-am2-am3-fm1-fm2

 

[LeeRoyBrown]

Let me clarify some things for you. Also let me know if I have missed something, I'm open to learning.

That card won't fit in a number of those cases, and the reference one is too loud.

1. The Sapphire Tri-X is dual slot, the XFX Black is dual slot the Asus Direct CUII is dual slot, and they fit both height and width dimensions, you can even fit them in a fractal node. If they were tripple slot, I would understand, again though, they are not, so I don't understand your logic.

On top of that, you have to start worrying about power limits in a few of the builds

2. A 650W PSU is MORE than enough unless you want to liquid cool and overclock. Let alone the fact that the build also lists a 750W PSU

not to mention thermal limits, which means lots more noise.

3. I'm beginning to think you don't know what a Direct CUII, Windforce or Tri-X card are. They exist, they are real, you can buy them. They run around 20-30C cooler under load than the Reference card. Seriously, stop bringing up the reference card.

If there's a good deal and it works for you though, then that's awesome.

The deal is called not America, the only issue is actually getting stock, we already get screwed on price here and if they jack it up the Nvidia cards will end up being cheaper. Hence we don't have that problem.

 

[TerryLee81]

Great job guys!

If I switch mainboards, do I have to install everything from scratch or can I just install the new drivers?

 

[LeeRoyBrown]

I've been checking PCCG nearly daily to see when they got it in stock
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26373
2 per customer, already sold out. FFS

Eh, I check every day I get home, I could have purchased it last night, but I'm waiting for the Direct CUII.

Hard luck if that's the card you wanted bro.

I'd recommend the XFX 290, however I can't seem to find any reviews on it.

The Tri-X is actually getting excellent reviews and it's the first Sapphire card I have considered buying. If the DirectCUII is at a bullshit price I'll consider it.

 

[Dennis]

Q3 for Haswell-E.

NVIDIA 800 series will likely launch with the Gwhatever104 variant as the top dog, with the Gwhatever110 variant coming out a year later, like they did with Kepler.

Thanks.

Can anyone point me in the direction of something reliable stating that Intel will be releasing an 8-core (16-thread) CPU (desktop, not server) in 2014?

I am not upgrading until we get 8-cores.

 

[TheD]

3. I'm beginning to think you don't know what a Direct CUII, Windforce or Tri-X card are. They exist, they are real, you can buy them. They run around 20-30C cooler under load than the Reference card. Seriously, stop bringing up the reference card.

Just because some coolers can keep them at a lower temp in big-ish cases does not mean they output less heat vs a stock card or have the needed air flow in a small ITX case!

 

[mkenyon]

Thanks.

Can anyone point me in the direction of something reliable stating that Intel will be releasing an 8-core (16-thread) CPU (desktop, not server) in 2014?

I am not upgrading until we get 8-cores.

Just search for Haswell-E Q3 on Google. Server procs are Haswell-EP.

 

[Hazaro]

I like this guide for the EVO. Hate the video ones. http://www.overclock.net/t/1322128/...-775-1150-1155-1156-1366-2011-am2-am3-fm1-fm2

Added

Let me clarify some things for you. Also let me know if I have missed something, I'm open to learning.

1. The Sapphire Tri-X is dual slot, the XFX Black is dual slot the Asus Direct CUII is dual slot, and they fit both height and width dimensions, you can even fit them in a fractal node. If they were tripple slot, I would understand, again though, they are not, so I don't understand your logic.

2. A 650W PSU is MORE than enough unless you want to liquid cool and overclock. Let alone the fact that the build also lists a 750W PSU

3. I'm beginning to think you don't know what a Direct CUII, Windforce or Tri-X card are. They exist, they are real, you can buy them. They run around 20-30C cooler under load than the Reference card. Seriously, stop bringing up the reference card.

The deal is called not America, the only issue is actually getting stock, we already get screwed on price here and if they jack it up the Nvidia cards will end up being cheaper. Hence we don't have that problem.

1. I don't know, he mumbled something about this before about 2 hours ago. Dual cards should fit fine and some of the cases can take over 11.5"
2. Something like the Raven has a SFF 450W Gold unit, I'm guessing that's what he is talking about
3. These have been extremely hard to get any of currently. As soon as prices fall back to earth and there is availability the cards are 100% going in the Desktop builds and the SFF. Also consider a 290X uses more power than a GTX690 (A dual GPU setup). It's quite a lot.

North America is accountable for almost 10x the next country in clicks, so unfortunately the trends here and in the UK will dictate a large percentage of build and part availability (Although I did mention the XFX PSU's for the UK, they should be getting the EVGA 500B's in next week).

Great job guys!

If I switch mainboards, do I have to install everything from scratch or can I just install the new drivers?

If it's a different chipset you need to install new chipset drivers and may have to reactivate Windows and . Just give them a call.

 

[LeeRoyBrown]

Just because some coolers can keep them at a lower temp in big-ish cases does not mean they output less heat or have the needed air flow in a small ITX case!

ASUS R9 290X Thermals

That's great and all, however most of the reviews show the 290X running at the same temp or lower than the cards left in the guide.

EDIT: The accoustics are about the same or about 1-2dB louder.

By that logic, almost no cards would qualify for a miniITX build.

 

[Hazaro]

ASUS R9 290X Thermals

That's great and all, however most of the reviews show the 290X running at the same temp or lower than the cards left in the guide.

EDIT: The accoustics are about the same or about 1-2dB louder.

By that logic, almost no cards would qualify for a miniITX build.

The point TheD is making is that even if the card runs at 70C, it's still using 250W load and dumping that into an ITX chassis.

*The 95C figure is just thermal throttling on the terrible stock cooler and shouldn't be used as an argument, any smart fan management or better cooler negates this and also allows the 290/290X to run faster.

 

[TheD]

ASUS R9 290X Thermals

That's great and all, however most of the reviews show the 290X running at the same temp or lower than the cards left in the guide.

EDIT: The accoustics are about the same or about 1-2dB louder.

By that logic, almost no cards would qualify for a miniITX build.

Not only is 94C very high (higher than anything on the ITX build list, as shown by your own link), but a cooler like the DCUII dumps the heat INTO THE CASE! instead of out the back of the case like a ref card!
(e.g My last 3 cards have been Windforce cards and they heat up my full tower Lian Li case)

The point TheD is making is that even if the card runs at 70C, it's still using 250W load and dumping that into an ITX chassis.

Yep, just because a card can run at n C with some cooler in a large-ish case does not mean it is displacing the same amount of heat as a lower end card running at the same temp but with a worse cooler.

 

[Witchfinder General]

I have a problem that I hope you guys can help me with.

Every so often when playing PC games the sound will cut out and stay that way until I quit the game. When I do this sometimes the sound returns to normal sometimes it will sound distorted and occasionally send the sound to my rear speakers. Resetting my receiver sometimes fixes this, other times I need to restart my computer instead. Also, after restarting I can go for days even a whole week without encountering this problem but when it does happen nearly every time I load up a game it will rear its ugly head.

I've come to the conclusion that the PC is to fault. My reasoning for this is:

1) This only happens when I play PC games. Watching videos (youtube, Giant Bomb, Crunchyroll etc) or playing music (Foobar, Spotify) never causes this to happen. Ever.
1) When the sound cuts out and I switch over to another input (say my blu-ray player) I don't have any problems.
3) Changing HDMI cables (I'm a comfy-couch gamer) made no difference so it's not that.

I've updated everything on my PC thinking it might be a driver issue but that hasn't made any difference. It could be my GPU (GTX670) but I have the latest drivers and I'm pretty certain I started getting this problem before I updated the drivers.

I'm at a loss.

 

[KAL2006]

I was looking into upgrading my CPU to 4670k and upgrading my RAM and Motherboard. However I am such a noob, I haven't built a PC in a long time, so far I have upgraded my GPU to 7870, but all other components are old and need upgrading.

Are these overclocked 4670k bundles worth buying, starting prices are £400ish for CPU, Mobo, RAM, Cooler
http://www.scan.co.uk/3xs-overclocked-bundles

 

[LeeRoyBrown]

Not only is 94C very high, but a cooler like the DCUII dumps the heat INTO THE CASE! instead of out the back of the case like a ref card!

Just checking we are talking about the same card here, it hits 78C on LOAD not 94C in a game in performance mode, why on earth would I run a game in silent mode. I mean, I want it to run cool, It's the whole point of my buying a D14 for my CPU.

Yep, just because a card can run at n C with some cooler in a large-ish case does not mean it is displacing the same amount of heat as a lower end card running at the same temp but with a worse cooler.

Bitfenix Prodigy, 2 X Noctua 120mm, 1 X 140mm, 1 X 230mm Bitfenix Spectre. D14 CPU Cooler, power supply exhaust video card cooler....vs a benchmark done on a bench?

What card runs at a cooler temp for the same price, with the same performance bear in mind?

 

[wilflare]

I think everyone who is interested should buy a Xonar DGX off Amazon or someplace with hassle free returns and try it out.

hmmm. guess there's really no point these days to get a good sound card for gaming?

still using the Aego M as speakers.

is there an active Windows 8.1 thread/discussion?

 

[Corto]

Thanks once again Hazaro and Mkenyon for this. I'm mostly a lurker on these threads but I had to congratulate your work and leave my appreciation. When the time is right

Spoiler

spiked prices be damned

I'll be here seeking advice on the AMD 290 and what should I upgrade on my PC. Until then I'll be just window shopping hehehe

 

[Hazaro]

I have a problem that I hope you guys can help me with.

Every so often when playing PC games the sound will cut out and stay that way until I quit the game. When I do this sometimes the sound returns to normal sometimes it will sound distorted and occasionally send the sound to my rear speakers. Resetting my receiver sometimes fixes this, other times I need to restart my computer instead. Also, after restarting I can go for days even a whole week without encountering this problem but when it does happen nearly every time I load up a game it will rear its ugly head.

I've come to the conclusion that the PC is to fault. My reasoning for this is:

1) This only happens when I play PC games. Watching videos (youtube, Giant Bomb, Crunchyroll etc) or playing music (Foobar, Spotify) never causes this to happen. Ever.
1) When the sound cuts out and I switch over to another input (say my blu-ray player) I don't have any problems.
3) Changing HDMI cables (I'm a comfy-couch gamer) made no difference so it's not that.

I've updated everything on my PC thinking it might be a driver issue but that hasn't made any difference. It could be my GPU (GTX670) but I have the latest drivers and I'm pretty certain I started getting this problem before I updated the drivers.

I'm at a loss.

You are using HDMI to carry both video and audio to a single Monitor? TV?
Have you tried another cable with higher gauge?

I was looking into upgrading my CPU to 4670k and upgrading my RAM and Motherboard. However I am such a noob, I haven't built a PC in a long time, so far I have upgraded my GPU to 7870, but all other components are old and need upgrading.

Are these overclocked 4670k bundles worth buying, starting prices are £400ish for CPU, Mobo, RAM, Cooler
http://www.scan.co.uk/3xs-overclocked-bundles

This is what I would go for if you really aren't going to do it yourself, alternatively the ASUS Z87-A I guess...

Just checking we are talking about the same card here, it hits 78C on LOAD not 94C in a game in performance mode, why on earth would I run a game in silent mode. I mean, I want it to run cool, It's the whole point of my buying a D14 for my CPU.

Bitfenix Prodigy, 2 X Noctua 120mm, 1 X 140mm, 1 X 230mm Bitfenix Spectre. D14 CPU Cooler, power supply exhaust video card cooler....vs a benchmark done on a bench?

What card runs at a cooler temp for the same price, with the same performance bear in mind?

You still aren't addressing the point that putting a card that draws over 250W in an ITX chassis is a concern or that you can't currently buy the cards. I'm not putting a card in a build that currently costs 33% more to over 75% of the people that use the thread and is unavailable for purchase.

hmmm. guess there's really no point these days to get a good sound card for gaming?

still using the Aego M as speakers.

is there an active Windows 8.1 thread/discussion?

Having an audiocard is nicer. Some notice, some don't, onboard can be fine for many.
It's up to the person to try it themselves and see.

 

[KAL2006]

Cool, I have calculated the components if I bought them separately, and I would only save about £25ish if I did everything myself. I think the extra £25 is worth it for a pre built system that's already overclocked.

 

[LeeRoyBrown]

You still aren't addressing the point that putting a card that draws over 250W in an ITX chassis is a concern or that you can't currently buy the cards. I'm not putting a card in a build that currently costs 33% more to over 75% of the people that use the thread and is unavailable for purchase.

Oh ok cool well, sorry for not being American I guess.

Why is the 250W a concern?

 

[j0hnny_385]

new year, new thread! who ho! \o/

 

[TheD]

Just checking we are talking about the same card here, it hits 78C on LOAD not 94C in a game in performance mode, why on earth would I run a game in silent mode. I mean, I want it to run cool, It's the whole point of my buying a D14 for my CPU.

As I said before, it dumps the heat into the case unlike most of the cards on that list (ITX build list or in that review) and it is not about how hot the GPU runs with the cooler on it, it is how much heat that is displaced by the cooler!

Bitfenix Prodigy, 2 X Noctua 120mm, 1 X 140mm, 1 X 230mm Bitfenix Spectre. D14 CPU Cooler, power supply exhaust video card cooler....vs a benchmark done on a bench?

The Prodigy is a pretty cramped case around the GPU, I would not bet money on it being cooler in the case than on a bench.

What card runs at a cooler temp for the same price, with the same performance bear in mind?

Not the point.

 

[Hazaro]

Oh ok cool well, sorry for not being American I guess.

Why is the 250W a concern?

Come on dude. And don't tell me a reference 290 is a good purchase.

250W card in here I'd be dubious of. Plus one of the main things is low noise. Without a good case cooling solution thermals very well could impact the performance of a 290/290X because of the 95C balancing act.

This isn't some fuck yeah USA conspiracy or nVidia jerking, if you have anything else just keep it to PM so we can keep the thread clean.

 

[CRS]

And subscribed.

 

[neoanarch]

Lian Li PC-7HX
I bought a case that was on sale and I kind of regret it I wish I'd bought something smaller. The case I have is too big.

 

[mkenyon]

Lian Li PC-7HX
I bought a case that was on sale and I kind of regret it I wish I'd bought something smaller. The case I have is too big.

I've been pushing for the abandonment of ATX in favor of mATX for well over a year now. There's very few people who need ATX these days. At least we have mATX options in the OP!