I don't really care. I just want whatever way is safest and will last
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I don't really care. I just want whatever way is safest and will last
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
Motherboard CPU header then, you don't want the fan running at 100% all the time unless you want to lubricate it every 6 months.
Almost done guys. Just 3 more questions
1) Where do I connect the power switch, LED switch and reset switch on the motherboard? I have a Gigabyte UD4H to be specific
2) Do I use the 6 pin or 8 pin connector for the graphics card?
3) Can I connect my optical drive from SATA to PSU?
1) Where do I connect the power switch, LED switch and reset switch on the motherboard? I have a Gigabyte UD4H to be specific
2) Do I use the 6 pin or 8 pin connector for the graphics card?
3) Can I connect my optical drive from SATA to PSU?
1. It's in your motherboard manual.
2. You have to use what your video card requires. If there are 8 pin holes, you need an 8 pin.
3. Umm... It requires two connections. Data (skinny port) and power (wider port)
1) Just found it. Thanks
2) The GTX 780 has one 6 pin and one 8 pin. That means I have to connect both yeah?
3) My stupid optical drive didn't come with anything else. Guess I'm screwed til I can buy those connectors
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
Optical drive uses the same connectors as hard drives. You should have some extra included with the motherboard.
You have to have all the connectors on your GPU populated, yes.
2) Both need to be connected.
3) Look through accessories in PSU and mobo boxes, maybe you are lucky.
Well here she is guys
Gonna troubleshoot everything and pray it works
Edit: Well, shit. Not even a peep. WTF could have gone wrong? Maybe when I forced the heat sink screw into the motherboard? I know all the connections are correct. I mean it took 2 fucking days for fucks sake. This is fucking depressing. GOD DAMN IT!!!
Oh well at least I tried
Gonna troubleshoot everything and pray it works
Edit: Well, shit. Not even a peep. WTF could have gone wrong? Maybe when I forced the heat sink screw into the motherboard? I know all the connections are correct. I mean it took 2 fucking days for fucks sake. This is fucking depressing. GOD DAMN IT!!!
Oh well at least I tried
NOooooooooooo
The only water cooling store in Canada (literally), has stopped stocking the radiators I need for my build
This poster on Tom'sHardware is selling a ton of cheap water-cooling parts. Perhaps you can find what you need there.
Well here she is guys
Gonna troubleshoot everything and pray it works
Edit: Well, shit. Not even a peep. WTF could have gone wrong? Maybe when I forced the heat sink screw into the motherboard? I know all the connections are correct. I mean it took 2 fucking days for fucks sake. This is fucking depressing. GOD DAMN IT!!!
Oh well at least I tried
Are you saying it doesn't power on? Can you be a bit more specific?
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
First check to see if you connected the power button leads to the motherboard correctly. Then reseat the big 24-pin motherboard power connector if that doesn't work.
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
Try connecting your monitor to your motherboard, if that works then the GPU isn't installed properly (or there's some other issue related to it).
Im using my tv... Friend was supposed to lend me his extra monitor but changed his mind. Im using HDMI but the screen is black. I plugged the keyboard and the LEDs turned on so now Im stuck and dont even know how to shut the computer down
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
Just press the power button again. Your motherboard has HDMI on it right? Connect it to that.
phxxBullet
Banned
This.
That's why my first build wouldn't boot up and I was like "damn this whole PC build things it just sucks". After changing 1 single, 3mm wide cable, it worked like a charm.. haha
Infinite Justice
Member
take out the GPU and connect your monitor to your motherboard video port and see if it shows up there.
phxxBullet
Banned
Is your GPU-fan spinning? If not, check the power connectors from PSU to GPU.
I have the HDMI connected to the motherboard but nothing is happening. I have to go to bed though so I'll report back sometime tomorrow. Shit sucks but oh well. Thanks for the help guys
Edit: yes GPU fan is spinning, all fans are spinning, motherboard light is on, GPU geforce logo is glowing, keyboard is lit...
My brain wants to keep going but my eyes are failing me. Good night everyone
Edit: yes GPU fan is spinning, all fans are spinning, motherboard light is on, GPU geforce logo is glowing, keyboard is lit...
My brain wants to keep going but my eyes are failing me. Good night everyone
Echelon079
Member
Trying turning tv on and off. I know mine will not pick up a device if I plug it in while the tv is on. Sometimes I have to turn it on and off
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
If the GPU is working, then the TV should be connected to the GPU.
phxxBullet
Banned
If you are using a TV instead of a monitor, you could try to FIRST turn on the TV, pick the "digital input" where you connected the PC, THEN turn on the PC and wait if it gets a picture.
My TV will not show any picture at all and will go to sleep-mode if I turn on the PC before the TV.. only thing I can do to avoid this is re-connecting the DVI once or twice, or by doing it like I said.
Hope that this helps, I know how frustrating a failure at the first build can be, been there done that. /:
Infinite Justice
Member
also maybe try switching the input source on the tv then switch back
Try inserting your CPU power cable again, I've seen this problem some times.
tsunami643
Member
Can you try connecting a normal monitor through your motherboard's VGA or DVI connection? It's possible the HDMI port might be bad, or won't work in BIOS.
So I determined that my 4 year old Corsair 128gb SSD drive that I used to boot my computer with has kicked the bucket. Got it when SSD was still the new thing and I paid $400 for it.
Anyways I am out of the loop when it comes to modern SSD tech. I didn't personally notice any speed improvements from my SSD drive over a regular hard drive though I don't know how fast today's SSD drives are.
My question is this: Is it worth upgrading to a modern say 256gb SSD drive (any recommendations?) or better to just buy a 4tb regular hard drive for a similar price?
Anyways I am out of the loop when it comes to modern SSD tech. I didn't personally notice any speed improvements from my SSD drive over a regular hard drive though I don't know how fast today's SSD drives are.
My question is this: Is it worth upgrading to a modern say 256gb SSD drive (any recommendations?) or better to just buy a 4tb regular hard drive for a similar price?
Baloonatic
Member
Surprised you couldn't notice a difference, although my first SSD was two years ago so maybe they had improved by then? I could never go back to a HDD as my main drive, the difference in game load times and just booting the system is huge to me.
Here is what I'm currently looking at:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W00ZD1539
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W00ZD1539
Q2, but it's unlikely, that you will see a huge price drop on CPU's, because they usually tend to stay on the same price (for example the 3770K still is 290 here and you can get a 4770K for the same price). You should keep your eyes open on deals, though.
Just get an 840 Evo or a Crucual M500. Pro isn't worth the extra.
nkarafo
Member
My biggest concern right now is if its worth it buying an older generation i5 CPU now. I need to be able to upgrade the CPU in 2 or 3 years, without changing the motherboard. Is socket LGA1150 safe? Are 3rd generation CPUs safe? Or should i get the most modern ones?
Also i know that the "K" letter after the name of a CPU means its good for overclocking. But what do "T" and "S" mean?
Also i know that the "K" letter after the name of a CPU means its good for overclocking. But what do "T" and "S" mean?
cyen
Member
There is no safe socket for Intel unless you go E series.
eot
Banned
You'll probably need a new mobo the next time you want to upgrade your CPU, but on the upside you probably won't need to upgrade your CPU for ages. It's not like how it used to be.
The random read write performance has always been light years ahead of HDDs simply because of flash based vs rotating disk. Thats where most of the loading time performance is gained especially with applications and Windows OS (due to small file sizes).
A HDD barely hits 1MB/s on 4k random R/W, the earliest SSDs hit 20MB/s, and now we are at about 30MB/s.
helloresolven
Member
Thoughts on the following build?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($123.95 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($344.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($153.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($136.50 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1349.34
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-19 09:16 EDT-0400)
Your Current Specs: iMac, so not much use for this.
Budget: $1450, US
Main Use: This is purely a gaming machine, nearly everything else done on other computer.
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080, already owned.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: 60fps on High (at least) on games like Wildstar / Dark Souls 2 / DayZ.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: As soon as I make up my mind on specs.
Will you be overclocking? Not now, but okay with preparing myself for eventuality.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($123.95 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($344.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($153.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($136.50 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1349.34
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-19 09:16 EDT-0400)
Your Current Specs: iMac, so not much use for this.
Budget: $1450, US
Main Use: This is purely a gaming machine, nearly everything else done on other computer.
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080, already owned.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: 60fps on High (at least) on games like Wildstar / Dark Souls 2 / DayZ.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: As soon as I make up my mind on specs.
Will you be overclocking? Not now, but okay with preparing myself for eventuality.
Consider the 240gb EVO over the 128gb Pro SSD unless you're getting it for professional reasons (and doing LOTS of daily writes to it etc.)
If you're not against picking up Windows 8.1 Pro from reddit's software swap, you could probably put the money you save towards a 780.
Otherwise it's looking good!
Edit: This ends up at $1466.36 for example, or $1422.40 with a Crucial M500.
If you're not against picking up Windows 8.1 Pro from reddit's software swap, you could probably put the money you save towards a 780.
Otherwise it's looking good!
Edit: This ends up at $1466.36 for example, or $1422.40 with a Crucial M500.
Hyperthreading. It's not being taken advantage of for gaming yet, really...but in the future it could prove to make a difference (see the Watch_Dogs specs thread for example). Has current real benefits for professional uses.
It begins.
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Hey guys, need a bit of help figuring out memory compatibility with my old Mobo.
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8P67_PRO/specifications/
It supports 1600hz, so it should work for something like this?
http://www.ncix.com/detail/patriot-viper-3-16gb-2x8gb-1c-95807-1018.htm
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8P67_PRO/specifications/
It supports 1600hz, so it should work for something like this?
http://www.ncix.com/detail/patriot-viper-3-16gb-2x8gb-1c-95807-1018.htm
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Wow compatibility for something that's 4 years old is pretty good.
HowardRoark
Member
Is now a good time to upgrade my graphics card? I want an Nvidia Shield, but my 570 GTX is not compatible. Is now a good time, or are new revisions/die shrinks coming in the near future (3-4 months)?
I have the deluxe version of that MB. It's closer to 2.5 years old. And, DDR3 has been around for 5 years. Later this year, we finally move to DDR4. I can finally upgrade.
Maxwell is suppose to be in the next couple of months. Probably, best to wait for that.
Just looking for some opinions on whether I should go for a PC with a 780ti 3GB, or wait for the 880 at this point?
I found a great deal on a pre-built PC with a 780ti, 4770k, 16GB memory, Corsair 750w PSU and Win8 for £1200 - having priced it up parts wise it works out about £90 more expensive than buying and building myself which isn't bad at all considering the included warranty and the fact I've never built a PC before and probably wouldn't want to risk it when spending that much on components.
The deal was at eBay of all places, but the seller has 99.7% positive feedback from 36000+ ratings, so that doesn't worry me. Only drawbacks I could see in the spec were only a 1TB hDD (no SSD) and a fairly cheap case (Zalman Z3+). Everything else looks good quality from what I can see.
Just looking for advice really, go for that for £1200 now or wait and get an 880 build in a few months, but probably end up paying quite a bit more? I'd like this to last at least 3 years if not more if possible, playing at 1080p so with a 780ti, 4770k and 16GB that shouldn't be difficult, right?
I found a great deal on a pre-built PC with a 780ti, 4770k, 16GB memory, Corsair 750w PSU and Win8 for £1200 - having priced it up parts wise it works out about £90 more expensive than buying and building myself which isn't bad at all considering the included warranty and the fact I've never built a PC before and probably wouldn't want to risk it when spending that much on components.
The deal was at eBay of all places, but the seller has 99.7% positive feedback from 36000+ ratings, so that doesn't worry me. Only drawbacks I could see in the spec were only a 1TB hDD (no SSD) and a fairly cheap case (Zalman Z3+). Everything else looks good quality from what I can see.
Just looking for advice really, go for that for £1200 now or wait and get an 880 build in a few months, but probably end up paying quite a bit more? I'd like this to last at least 3 years if not more if possible, playing at 1080p so with a 780ti, 4770k and 16GB that shouldn't be difficult, right?
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