IMACOMPUTA
Member
Can anyone link me to that post that was quoted in here a little while back about why intel destroys amd right now ?
Thanks!!!!
Thanks!!!!
I have yet to hear about Sennheisers that are a bad choice, but in that price class I'd look at Beyerdynamic DT-990s (also recommended in the first post). Super comfortable. If you want closed-back, totally isolating phones, Audio-Technica M series is worth looking at; they are also very well built, but for me were uncomfortable.Are the Sennheiser HD 558 good headphones at $180? Only need it for pc games and electronic music. I have a $25 gift card to bring the cost down further.
I have yet to hear about Sennheisers that are a bad choice, but in that price class I'd look at Beyerdynamic DT-990s (also recommended in the first post). Super comfortable. If you want closed-back, totally isolating phones, Audio-Technica M series is worth looking at; they are also very well built, but for me were uncomfortable.
If you want the HD 558's specifically, they seem to be $123 on Amazon.
Do you guys have PWM fans? If you don't, there's no adjusting fan speed without voltage adapters.For some reason I don't know, my rig did started to do the same thing, a month or two ago. But just the CPU cooler fan. The temps never were over 40°C at idle, and this was the max in summer when ambient temperature was almost 30°C.
But now it's just spins with 100%, at 1500-1600rpm, with temps at 27-31°C.
Got it temporary fixed using speedfan, but I'm a bit scared I might damage something with leaving it permanently at lowered settings, so I only slow it down while browsing. ALTHOUGH after a 3 hour session of Borderlands2, temps are at 45°C, so I should be fine.
Is there a way to change speedfans in BIOS? I've never touched anything in there except for changing the HDD boot order.
I'm going to take this and just say that to all the idiots still somehow convincing people like this dude to not go Windows 8.1 or newer, please stop, it's really misleading unless there is a very specific reason why you need W7 for important SW/HW to work.In light of this new discovery... I think I'm going to switch back to Windows 8. The performance delta between Win7 and Win8 seems to be much more apparent on lower end hardware. In SR3 I'm finally without tearing or input lag, but now I get occasional fps drops to the mid 20's along with some audio hitching. This happens no matter how low I drop the settings, so I'm thinking that my Pentium CPU is the bottleneck. This never happened in Win8, I couldn't get the game to drop a frame there if I tried even on Ultra settings with 8x MSAA.
Can't wait to re-install my operating system again. -_-
You live and you learn...
Damn its been a lot harder than I thought adjusting to m/k gaming. Kinda gave up and bought a 360 pad
I'm going to take this and just say that to all the idiots still somehow convincing people like this dude to not go Windows 8.1 or newer, please stop, it's really misleading unless there is a very specific reason why you need W7 for important SW/HW to work.
Start menu is coming back by the fall iirc too, so no excuses.
Welcome (back to?) a newer more efficient operating system bro!
Did you try running it as administrator?
Damn its been a lot harder than I thought adjusting to m/k gaming. Kinda gave up and bought a 360 pad
I'm going to take this and just say that to all the idiots still somehow convincing people like this dude to not go Windows 8.1 or newer, please stop, it's really misleading unless there is a very specific reason why you need W7 for important SW/HW to work.
Start menu is coming back by the fall iirc too, so no excuses.
Welcome (back to?) a newer more efficient operating system bro!
I have the mouse. It comes with software to change any of the buttons. I currently use the DPI buttons as volume control for example.I believe I'm set on getting a Corsair Raptor M45 mouse (Want the Red LED's and don't care too much about Lazer mice) but I'm wondering if it's possible to change the DPI buttons to be on the two side buttons where the thumb would be instead of under the scroll wheel.
Anyone know the answer to this?
I have the mouse. It comes with software to change any of the buttons. I currently use the DPI buttons as volume control for example.
+repYou've not wasted your money. It can be a bugger to get rid of judder, tearing and input lag in all games. Some titles will require more attention than others, but I found it helps when you understand why phenomena like input lag and tearing occur. Essentially, there is no magic bullet right now (G-Sync is the closest thing to that) and you'll need to experiment. Apologies if you know all this already.
First off, adaptive v-sync will disable v-sync when you cannot maintain the requisite frame-rate. If that happens you'll get tearing until the frame-rate returns to the required rate. It was designed to address judder and make a changeable frame-rate less jarring. It will not help input lag if you are at the requisite frame-rate or higher, as it uses standard double-buffered v-sync.
Standard adaptive v-sync requires 60+fps, if you choose adaptive half, you'll need to maintain 30+fps to keep v-sync enabled. So if you are seeing tearing using adaptive v-sync, then you're not maintaining the requisite frame-rate, or you've capped it too low. Input lag will not be present when v-sync is disabled, as you've observed.
Input lag is caused when you enable v-sync and the system is generating more frames-per-second than the v-sync rate is allowing to be displayed. I believe this is because the extra frames are held until the display is ready to show them. In this scenario you're essentially viewing the past as far as the game engine is concerned.
As you can't correct your inputs until you see the result of them on screen, this leads to very sluggish, high-latency input response. This is awful when using a mouse, but not so noticeable with a game-pad, I find.
Triple buffering can reduce input lag, but if it's not available, you should cap the game's frame-rate. If the game has a frame-rate limiter, try using it before Afterburner or Inspector. Capping at a few frames-per-second less than the v-sync limit might give better results for some games. i.e. 58fps or 28fps cap.
I find that D3DO does not work well for all games. For some titles, using the in-game v-sync feature (perhaps with a frame-cap to battle input lag) works best. For others, the in-game v-sync is garbage and you're better off disabling it in-game and forcing though Inspector.
To be fair, console games have not solved this problem at all. Mostly they employ double-buffered v-sync and put up with input-lag by hiding behind high-latency controls. Sorry for the wall of text.
I need to upgrade from my HD5550 and I was looking into the EVGA 750ti for gaming at 1080p/1200p
I don't care if I can have max settings as long as most games run fine
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/geforce...?id=1219104862829&skuId=4906008&st=categoryid$pcmcat182300050008&cp=1&lp=3
This card here. I have an i5 3570k @ 4.2 and a 500w Earthwatts, will this be sufficient?
The mouse is actually not the problem. I'm actually doing OK with it. The keyboard on the other hand is a nightmare. I'ts just so uncomfortable and frustrating. Gonna keep practicing though until I just can't do it anymore. Hopefully it doesn't come to that since I have a pretty decent mouseA pad is better for some game types. If you're having problems with first-person shooters though, I strongly advise you stick to a mouse. A lot of new players set their mouse sensitivity too high and leave acceleration enabled, which can make it hard for them to be consistently accurate.
I would just spend the extra $50.00 and get a 760. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130933
However if you decide that you can't go any higher in price, the 750 ti should be able to handle just about anything you throw at it on high settings with minimal anti-aliasing.
I need to upgrade from my HD5550 and I was looking into the EVGA 750ti for gaming at 1080p/1200p
I don't care if I can have max settings as long as most games run fine
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/geforce...?id=1219104862829&skuId=4906008&st=categoryid$pcmcat182300050008&cp=1&lp=3
This card here. I have an i5 3570k @ 4.2 and a 500w Earthwatts, will this be sufficient?
Depends on your definition of "run fine."
I have a 750Ti but am bottlenecked by my cheap CPU. It's fine for me though since I built this machine to play games at 1080p30. I'm doing that just fine with my dual core non-hyperthreading Pentium, so you'd get even better results. Better enough to hit consistent 60fps though? Possibly not.
That's assuming maxed out graphics though. If you're cool with lowering shit, then yeah, you'll be totally fine. The 750Ti is a hell of a GPU for $150.
I've been holding out a bit since last I came in here, but with my PC taking over 10 minutes for a full boot, I felt I can't hold out any longer and hop on the SSD train come pay day.
So my question is, is the Crucial M500 120GB still worth it?
And how is the PNY XLR8 120GB SSD? They're both currently the exact same price (649 SEK/~£58) so I could go for whichever.
Thanks!
Edit: I might stretch for a Samsung 840 EVO 120GB if it provides a better experience to the other two. But if it's negligible I'll stick to the lower priced ones.
Quoting myself because of new page. Any insight? Thinking of picking it up next week.
Quoting myself because of new page. Any insight? Thinking of picking it up next week.
I have an AsRock z87 Extreme4 mobo. One of the features of the board is an HDMI in (a la XB1). I have the A-Tuning program, which enables HDMI switching, installed. However, when I try to use HDMI switching nothing happens. What is really strange is if I hit alt tab or go into taskmanager I can see the damn program is running, but when I select it, it isfucking invisible.
Obviously I tried uninstall reinstall. Also tried running as admin. Neither worked. Would flashing the bios help? IO connector bad? Defective mobo? HDMI/HDTV incompatibility?
Yes, Crucial M500 is still worth to buy it, and I am considering it myself. The M500 and EVO are both the ones to consider for most people. EVO is a bit faster but you are fine with the M500.
Don't know the other SSD, would probably get the M500.
iirc, the read or the write time on the m500 is really slow at that size. FWIW, I have that PNY ssd in my laptop and the 480GB version of the M500 going into my PC. Both have worked flawlessly for the time I've owned them.
Awesome post. Thank youDepends on your definition of "run fine."
I have a 750Ti but am bottlenecked by my cheap CPU. It's fine for me though since I built this machine to play games at 1080p30. I'm doing that just fine with my dual core non-hyperthreading Pentium, so you'd get even better results. Better enough to hit consistent 60fps though? Possibly not.
That's assuming maxed out graphics though. If you're cool with lowering shit, then yeah, you'll be totally fine. The 750Ti is a hell of a GPU for $150.
...and if you're cool with 30fps, dude, this card is the best value of all time. I've been recording fucking video of my gameplay at 30fps without performance drops. Shadowplay so based.
The Witcher 2 - http://youtu.be/lzJmItRJVjM
Saints Row: The Third - http://youtu.be/BhMACZh13UI
Recorded on this beastly rig. ^_^
I think the thing going into the HDMI In has to be on before you try and switch over ot it.
Also I think you have to use the iGPU to have it work it won't work through a discrete video card.
Thanks for the reply. My devices were on when I attempted to switch to them.
iGPU = integrated gpu? Does the extreme4 have this? If so how do I enable it?
Woop, thanks guys. I don't have too much money to spend and figured that in combination with a 1TB drive I wouldn't need much more space than 120GB. Might go for the M500 though, don't know much about PNY.
I need to upgrade from my HD5550 and I was looking into the EVGA 750ti for gaming at 1080p/1200p
I don't care if I can have max settings as long as most games run fine
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/geforce...?id=1219104862829&skuId=4906008&st=categoryid$pcmcat182300050008&cp=1&lp=3
This card here. I have an i5 3570k @ 4.2 and a 500w Earthwatts, will this be sufficient?
Yeah the M500 should be fine, but it is relatively slow sometimes, they fixed that at the lower capacities with the M550, but that's likely too much $$ for your budget. I'm always leery of PNY though.
I had a look at AMD alternatives to the 750Ti earlier and landed on this.
That EVGA 750Ti uses a bunch less power and is super overclockable though, which is worth bearing in mind.
The EVGA SC cards are $139 and $159 for ACX on Newegg after rebate too.If anyone really wants a 750ti, Newegg has a Gigabyte one that is priced at 129.99 after rebates!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125502
Thanks for the reply. My devices were on when I attempted to switch to them.
iGPU = integrated gpu? Does the extreme4 have this? If so how do I enable it?
I'd have to get a new power supply, so that's technically like $120 more I'm paying, I'd rather not at this point.
The EVGA SC cards are $139 and $159 for ACX on Newegg after rebate too.
Should be fine. Upgrade when it feels slow. Don't spend money until you need to.
What video card do you have now and what were you thinking of getting?
560 to a 770 I'd wait unless you're really hurting. The 680 was released in 2012 .560ti -> 770 potentially, but not sure yet; might wait for more Maxwell stuff.
Separately I'm thinking about a 750ti for my HTPC, but it has a crummy Athlon II X2 215 CPU. Afraid it'll bottleneck the crap out of a 750ti.
No way I would pay $199 for a 750ti...that seems way high.
Look at this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121868
It's an ASUS DCUII....R7 265. A better card than a 750ti, and it comes with two free games.
Also, R9 270s are cheaper than that 750ti....and another step up in quality.
Hell, you could get a 270x with two free games for $219.
And yes 500 watts would be fine for all of these cards.