eBay Huckster
Member
He was talking about Watch Dogs, not Western Digital.
...hence the "comically miss the point" portion of that post
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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...hence the "comically miss the point" portion of that post
Hey man Im interested in that 4670k!
Probably best to send a PM about it.
OK, after some more research I'm down to two scenarios.
1) I buy a SG09 or SG10 and just move my current setup into that case
2) I buy a new mITX mobo (some of the cheaper LGA 1155 ones can be had around $50) and a Fractal Design Node 304.
The issue with the Node 304, as mentioned before to me, is that with a modular PSU a long GPU can block the necessary connectors.
So the downsides of this case are A) It may not fit my GPU and B) Even if it does I may not be able to upgrade to longer cards in the future without buying a new PSU.
The GTX 660 in the image above is listed as having the same length as my current GPU, GTX 480.
This is my PSU, HX620
Looking at the first image it seems like the GPU ends up at about 40-50% of the PSU length which would be cutting it real close to the two connectors I need for the GPU power. I only use two of the 5 other connectors so those shouldn't be an issue.
Has anyone done a similar build in a Node 304? Did you have issues with long video cards and a modular PSU? If it seems like too much of a risk/hassle I'll probably stick to the first plan and get a mATX mini tower like the SG09 or SG10.
1) I buy a SG09 or SG10 and just move my current setup into that case
2) I buy a new mITX mobo (some of the cheaper LGA 1155 ones can be had around $50) and a Fractal Design Node 304.
The issue with the Node 304, as mentioned before to me, is that with a modular PSU a long GPU can block the necessary connectors.
So the downsides of this case are A) It may not fit my GPU and B) Even if it does I may not be able to upgrade to longer cards in the future without buying a new PSU.
The GTX 660 in the image above is listed as having the same length as my current GPU, GTX 480.
This is my PSU, HX620
Looking at the first image it seems like the GPU ends up at about 40-50% of the PSU length which would be cutting it real close to the two connectors I need for the GPU power. I only use two of the 5 other connectors so those shouldn't be an issue.
Has anyone done a similar build in a Node 304? Did you have issues with long video cards and a modular PSU? If it seems like too much of a risk/hassle I'll probably stick to the first plan and get a mATX mini tower like the SG09 or SG10.
It's entry-level, but I'm quite pleased with the Lamptron FC2. It's simple, well built and can provide quite high wattage per fan. Others I looked at couldn't power some of my fans at max RPM.
I drive my remaining fans from the motherboard and control them with OpenHardwareMonitor. I'm water cooling so there's not much need to alter their RPM very often.
EDIT: Way too late. I'm no match for Smokey's impulse buying skills.
Amen.
OK, after some more research I'm down to two scenarios.
1) I buy a SG09 or SG10 and just move my current setup into that case
2) I buy a new mITX mobo (some of the cheaper LGA 1155 ones can be had around $50) and a Fractal Design Node 304.
The issue with the Node 304, as mentioned before to me, is that with a modular PSU a long GPU can block the necessary connectors.
So the downsides of this case are A) It may not fit my GPU and B) Even if it does I may not be able to upgrade to longer cards in the future without buying a new PSU.
The GTX 660 in the image above is listed as having the same length as my current GPU, GTX 480.
This is my PSU, HX620
Looking at the first image it seems like the GPU ends up at about 40-50% of the PSU length which would be cutting it real close to the two connectors I need for the GPU power. I only use two of the 5 other connectors so those shouldn't be an issue.
Has anyone done a similar build in a Node 304? Did you have issues with long video cards and a modular PSU? If it seems like too much of a risk/hassle I'll probably stick to the first plan and get a mATX mini tower like the SG09 or SG10.
If the HX620 is 150mm in length then I think it will fit fine, you can gain another 15-20mm by removing the PSU bracket so the PSU can by pushed further away from the GPU. I have a Seasonic M12 II 620 in my node 304 and a gtx 780 using this method, and I think my PSU was 160mm long.
What does the bracket do besides take up extra space?
Screws the PSU to it and the case. Not really needed. I put a small pad of double sided Duck tape too keep the PSU from sliding. Although it hardly moves anyways with how the cables have been ziptied to the case.
My PSU was W160 x L150 x H86 mm.
That seems like maybe make it a bit unstable if traveling with it often. I plan to have it go with me maybe 1-3 times a week in a car.
Chance Hale
Member
There any indication what Nvidia will be showing at Computex? Suppose I can wait 3 more days before buying a 700 dollar card.
Either the original Duck Tape or a high quality adhesive Velcro will be fine. I use this stuff on my RC cars which take quite a lot of high impact forces without things that i have Duck taped falling off or even budging. The quality stuff wont wear out over time though. For this case its worth it!
phxxBullet
Banned
You could just use some Velcro ® fastener (don't blame me if that's wrong, it's what google came up with as idk the english word for it).
Your PSU won't slide a millimeter using some of those. And the increased high shouldn't be a problem either.
// Darn, 1 minute too late. Thanks to Google translator
Hmm, so that solves that problem.
I'm leaning toward the SG09/10 due to it being a slightly cheaper ooption (no need to buy a new mITX mobo). I'm not sure if the extra size decrease from SG09/10 to Node 304 is worth the cost of a new mobo to me. I'll keep my options open, but at the moment I'm probably going with a mATX case.
Does anyone have any recommendations on carrying options for SFF cases? Silverstone makes a carrying duffle bag, but I aint paying $60 for a duffle bag.
phxxBullet
Banned
You got 2 healthy hands, no need to give them any money for a bag hehe
As for the SG09 vs node304 size, it wouldn't be worth a new mobo to me. But the look of the node is just a completely different story
Looks are almost a non factor to me as it will be in my place, my car inside a cheap duffle bag, and then inside my gf's place. No one else will ever see it most likely.
I will definitely try and find something to carry it in, moving it at lease once a week would start to be a pain when you start to consider the power cord, DVI to HDMI cable, KB/M if needed, controller, other crap, etc. I have a few gym bags and duffle bags which I hope one will fit. That sugo pack seems pretty silly, convenient, but $60 worth of convenience, not even close. That's around 60% the cost of the case.
I'm just curious if anyone has a SFF case, or a SG09/10 and has found a good bag it fits snug in.
Yeah if you got all the parts for mATX i would probablty not buy a new mobo, unless you know you can sell bits to break even. For me the aesthetics of the Node 304 are just more pleasing.
phxxBullet
Banned
If it doesn't matter to you, then there's nothing stopping you from going with a SG09/10. Just saying that I prefer the look of the node, as you don't see any fans on the front or anything else. It's just a flat surface
Right, for me it's just about that too.
SHADES
Member
Dries
Member
Hey guys, I'm pretty sure I just, for the first time, overclocked my i5 2500k CPU! Went from 3.3 ghz (stock) to 4.1 ghz. Still some questions of course:
1. How okay is it to just keep my PC in "OC-mode?" Maybe it's better if you keep different profiles in your BIOS to load accordingly to what game you want to play?
2a. For my current overlock I used this manual (http://www.overclock.net/t/910467/the-ultimate-sandy-bridge-oc-guide-p67a-ud7-performance-review). What I understand from this guide is that the CPU Vcore parameter automatically adjusts itself according to what parameter you use for CPU clock ratio. So does that mean that I don't need to fiddle with any voltage settings at all? One could think "since they are automatically set for me, so why bother"?
But, looking at this guide (http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cpu_mainboard/gigabyte_z77_overclocking_guide/7) they strongly disaggree with keeping Vcore on AUTO.
What is the best method concercing voltages? What voltages should I set, if it is indeed better to manually set them?
2b. In one of the guides they also said you can take down the voltage level step by step if you want. Is this something that is pretty mandatory? Because I don't really feel like trial and erroring just to get the perfect balance. If my auto adjusted Vcore parameter works well, can I just leave it at that or would real harm come from that?
3. My CPU cores are going up to 58 celcius when gaming. Is this acceptable and when should I be taking a step down?
4. For stress testing I'm using the software Prime95. I assume I should do a torture test. Is Blend the best way to stress test? And how long should I do this? Only thing I'm noticing is that the temps are rising on my CPU cores, but I don't see how I'll get smarter from that.
5. Is there a way I can see my total power consumption? I know my PSU is 700W, but how can I see if it's almost up to it's limit?
Thanks!
1. How okay is it to just keep my PC in "OC-mode?" Maybe it's better if you keep different profiles in your BIOS to load accordingly to what game you want to play?
2a. For my current overlock I used this manual (http://www.overclock.net/t/910467/the-ultimate-sandy-bridge-oc-guide-p67a-ud7-performance-review). What I understand from this guide is that the CPU Vcore parameter automatically adjusts itself according to what parameter you use for CPU clock ratio. So does that mean that I don't need to fiddle with any voltage settings at all? One could think "since they are automatically set for me, so why bother"?
But, looking at this guide (http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cpu_mainboard/gigabyte_z77_overclocking_guide/7) they strongly disaggree with keeping Vcore on AUTO.
What is the best method concercing voltages? What voltages should I set, if it is indeed better to manually set them?
2b. In one of the guides they also said you can take down the voltage level step by step if you want. Is this something that is pretty mandatory? Because I don't really feel like trial and erroring just to get the perfect balance. If my auto adjusted Vcore parameter works well, can I just leave it at that or would real harm come from that?
3. My CPU cores are going up to 58 celcius when gaming. Is this acceptable and when should I be taking a step down?
4. For stress testing I'm using the software Prime95. I assume I should do a torture test. Is Blend the best way to stress test? And how long should I do this? Only thing I'm noticing is that the temps are rising on my CPU cores, but I don't see how I'll get smarter from that.
5. Is there a way I can see my total power consumption? I know my PSU is 700W, but how can I see if it's almost up to it's limit?
Thanks!
You did reinstall Windows correct? It's necessary after upgrading a motherboard.
Prophet Steve
Member
1. Yes, you can keep it in OC-mode. I don't think anyone sets things back again when they are not playing a game.
2. Setting Vcore manually is better. With auto Vcore you have no control over how high it is going to be. It probably uses a bit more voltage than it needs. The issue with that, besides using more power, is that the temperatures rise.
3. Below 70 is perfectly fine and even when you are higher than that things don't have to be suddenly wrong.
4. I think blend was the best one yes, not entirely sure anymore but I think it is correct. Some do it for 24 hours, but you'll probably be fine too to have it like 8 hours or even way less.. It completely utilizes your CPU, so you know whether the voltage you have is enough, because otherwise it makes mistakes and can crash. It will also use the most voltage, which means the highest temperatures. So you can see whether your temperature stays below 70.
5. No, not really. The 700W also isn't a hard limit, it depends on the PSU how much is safe to utilize. You'll most likely be fine though. Especially if you only have 1 GPU.
1) Yes, if your board supports an adaptive Vcore, such as an offset mode, then the Vcore will scale with CPU load and Clock speed. This will prolong your CPU, and means itll run cooler at idle. Offset can require more Vcore overall though, as stability is sometimes harder to achieve. Always start with offset though, if you arent getting close to the OC you want, switch to Fixed vcore and see how it goes. That will tell you if its just a crap CPU/Mobo.
2a) You dont want to leave Vcore at idle as 90% time its more voltage than really needed, which means excessive heat at load situtations. And excessive degradation compared to the optimal Vcore.
2b) Yes this is what you want to do. Run 10-15min Prime95 tests with Small FFT to get you in the ball park for the optimal Vcore. See earlier for leaving at AUTO...
3) Yes 58c is fine, push to 70c.
4) Prime95 small fft for getting in the ball park Vcore. Then finally running longer Prime95 Blend - Custom with 90% RAM tested. I recommend 2hours minimum.
5) No it wont be at the limit at all you dont need to worry about this. My 3960x pulls 250W at 4.5Ghz. Your CPU wont be getting anywhere close, and i run a 650W PSU. As long as you have a decent quality PSU you have nothing to worry about. HWmonitor can give an indication of power consumption, but that only really got somewhat accurate after sandy bridge CPUs.
Ally1987
Member
Press + on CPU Vcore Offset Voltage: AUTO, that will give you +0.005v as your start point. Then bootup.
Other tips, disable CPU Spread Spectrum, will be right at the bottom of that page. Prevents the motherboard from shifting the bclk to avoid EMC interference, can be a disadvantage whilst overclocking. And as precaution you can set CPU Strap to 100Mhz. You may as well stick the DRAM Frequency to 1600Mhz too.
Other tips, disable CPU Spread Spectrum, will be right at the bottom of that page. Prevents the motherboard from shifting the bclk to avoid EMC interference, can be a disadvantage whilst overclocking. And as precaution you can set CPU Strap to 100Mhz. You may as well stick the DRAM Frequency to 1600Mhz too.
Ally1987
Member
I dont understand... when I press + i can choose between + or - , i dont see any auto?
I have done the other two things you mention.
Like so
The Offset Mode sign applies to the Offset Voltage.
For example Offset Mode +, and Offset Voltag 0.005 means +0.005v on the Dynamic VID that the BIOS determines for the 45 Multiplier for your CPU.
Therefore if the BIOS thinks that 1.3v is good for 45 Multiplier (Dynamic VID), you will see around 1.305v at Load in CPUz.
Offset Mode -, and Offset Voltag 0.005 means +0.005v on the Dynamic VID that the BIOS determines for the 45 Multiplier for your CPU.
Therefore if the BIOS thinks that 1.3v is good for 45 Multiplier, you will see around 1.295v at Load in CPUz.
But it saves you from the alternative -- Wi-fi
Ally1987
Member
Ok, i see... didnt understand everything there, but some of it.
anyway, is this how it should look like? I have set it to 0.005v now
phxxBullet
Banned
Wlan is the devil itself. Never ever will I not go with a cable, at least for a gaming rig.
For my iPhone that crappy connection is enough tho
Ally1987
Member
aiit I'll do that. thanks alot for the help!
Oh Shit - On the Impact too.
Core i7-4790K (4.0Ghz, 4C, HT, L3:8M, HD Graphic, 88W, rev.C0)
Same for the Gryphon, the Gene and Z87M-Plus as well - so mATX is completely covered.
Way cool. Now I get to choose between Z87 and Z97 for my new build.
Either a 4tb hard drive you connect locally, or an online backup service like carbonite or mozi.
Demon Lizardman
Banned
Is the new Haswell E more powerful than a intel 4770k processor?
EDIT: Wait, are they the same thing?
EDIT: Wait, are they the same thing?
Won't know until it comes out. But probably.
4770K = Haswell (consumer) = Socket 1150
59xx = Haswell-E[nthusiast] = Socket 2011 replacement.
Different class of chips. But we don't anything for sure until it is released.
phxxBullet
Banned
Btw, are there any new AMDs coming in the near future to replace the old AM3+?
First time in the thread :3
So, I already have a build I bought last year I think, and I'm wondering if it's a good idea to improving slowly, like buying a new case, a GPU, or a PSU separately over time? I really don't have the money right now to build a brand new PC, so money is a serious restriction.
So, I already have a build I bought last year I think, and I'm wondering if it's a good idea to improving slowly, like buying a new case, a GPU, or a PSU separately over time? I really don't have the money right now to build a brand new PC, so money is a serious restriction.
Demon Lizardman
Banned
Did they announce when it is going to be released?
phxxBullet
Banned
Doubtful. If there was we'd have heard about it The current AM3+ line up is expected to continue the whole way to 2015. AM1 and FM2+ is the future for them I'd imagine.
Specs!
Looking for an upgrade, don't have the budget to full-on build from scratch right now.
CPU: Intel Core i5-650 @ 3.20GHz
RAM: 1x Kingston 4GB DDR3-1333
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-H55M-S2V Micro ATX LGA1156
GPU: Geforce GTX 650 1GB GDDR5
PSU: Pixxo Jaguar 600W 24 pins SATA
Case: Generic, sorry for messy crappy pics:
Right now, I may buy a new case, this one's giving me problems with the GPU and its position.
Also a thing that bothers me is the noise, my PC is pretty loud, so I would be interested in making it considerably silent, maybe be able to sleep with it on.
Looking for an upgrade, don't have the budget to full-on build from scratch right now.
CPU: Intel Core i5-650 @ 3.20GHz
RAM: 1x Kingston 4GB DDR3-1333
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-H55M-S2V Micro ATX LGA1156
GPU: Geforce GTX 650 1GB GDDR5
PSU: Pixxo Jaguar 600W 24 pins SATA
Case: Generic, sorry for messy crappy pics:
HDD: Toshiba 2TB 7200 RPM 3.5" (DT01ACA200)
- Budget: ~$400. Mexico.
- Main Use: 3/5. Gaming, but emulation would be ideal.
- Monitor Resolution: Main Monitor: 1440x900, TV: 1360x768. Looking into upgrading to a 1080 monitor, ideally when I upgrade so the resolution doesn't impact performance too much.
- Games: Sleeping Dogs is the bane of my PC right now; The Witcher 2; Want to be able to run Witcher 3 when it comes out; Metro Last Light. My goal is 60 FPS 1080p, and ideally run decent PhysX effects with little to no impact to 60FPS, I'm not interested in SuperSampling or CUDA right now.
- Reuse any parts?: Yes, but if necessary I'll upgrade anything, just not everything at once because of money.
- Deadline?: Nope.
- Overclocking?: Not in my plans right now. May look into it depending on how complicated and troublesome it is.
Right now, I may buy a new case, this one's giving me problems with the GPU and its position.
Also a thing that bothers me is the noise, my PC is pretty loud, so I would be interested in making it considerably silent, maybe be able to sleep with it on.
phxxBullet
Banned
First off, the heck is this PSU? I'd suggest that's the first part you better upgrade.
Then toss in another 4gig of RAM, 8 gig is enough for gaming, and will be enough for at least another 2 years.
A new GPU like a 770 should give enough performance, although if you upgrade step by step, might wait till 800 series drops.
A new monitor will require a new GPU , otherwise you'll definitely see a decrease in performance, as you have to put out in 1080p and not 900p.
// I guess this was an OEM build?
Lol it has 36A on the 12v rail for 432W. It has 60A on the 5v Rail though ahaha.
phxxBullet
Banned
Nice stealth edit there haha
I wouldn't want something like that in my rig
//
60A on the 5v Rail and 36A on the 3,3v Rail seems kinda odd to me
For comparison, my CM Silent Pro has 20A / 20A on those rails
MWS Natural
Member
What do you guys use for installing harddrives into 5.25 bays? I bought a huge stardock 3 bay one but it's too big and noisy for my case.
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