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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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Scythian

Member
First off, the heck is this PSU? I'd suggest that's the first part you better upgrade.
Then toss in another 4gig of RAM, 8 gig is enough for gaming, and will be enough for at least another 2 years.
A new GPU like a 770 should give enough performance, although if you upgrade step by step, might wait till 800 series drops.
A new monitor will require a new GPU , otherwise you'll definitely see a decrease in performance, as you have to put out in 1080p and not 900p.

// I guess this was an OEM build?

It wasn't OEM ;_; I built it with help a little under a year ago.
Well, that PSU is the result of living in Mexico, not having a big budget, and not having access to big quality retailers of Computer parts.

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll look into buying another PSU today, I guess 600W is enough? I'm also not sure what to look for in a PSU, I'm not really that well-informed ._.
I was kinda worried about upgrading my Mobo because of really annoying stuttering when accessing the HDD (I guess?), so I figured something in my build really needed upgrading.
 
What do you guys use for installing harddrives into 5.25 bays? I bought a huge stardock 3 bay one but it's too big and noisy for my case.



something like these:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ords=3,5"+to+5,25"&rh=i:aps,k:3\c5"+to+5\c25"

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001UZQWG/?tag=neogaf0e-20

worked best for me

It wasn't OEM ;_; I built it with help a little under a year ago.
Well, that PSU is the result of living in Mexico, not having a big budget, and not having access to big quality retailers of Computer parts.

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll look into buying another PSU today, I guess 600W is enough? I'm also not sure what to look for in a PSU, I'm not really that well-informed ._.
I was kinda worried about upgrading my Mobo because of really annoying stuttering when accessing the HDD (I guess?), so I figured something in my build really needed upgrading.

Oh, okay I see.
Well, wait for others to comment about the PSU, but I'd say get a decent one. 600watt is kinda oversized though. 500-550 is enough for almost all cards, except the high end ones.
What do you mean by "stuttering when accessing the HDD"?
 

zychi

Banned
Gaf, I sold my 2 Crossover Korean 1440p monitors, and am in the market for a decent sized monitor that can do better than 1440p, I have $700 to spend. I'd prefer 4k, but can't find any good ones that are below $1000

Any recommendations from actual owners of 1440p and above?
 

molnizzle

Member
Fuck.

My new GTX 770 is powerful, but now I have a problem with screen tearing. It seems that no matter what I do I simply cannot get rid of tearing in the original Borderlands when running at 60fps. Using the Adaptive Vsync 1/2 system I had before I get no tearing at 30fps, but shit, I don't have to play at 30fps anymore.

I couldn't get RadeonPro to work and I can't use D3DOverrider as I'm running Win 8.1

Is there anything I can do here? I'm almost regretting the upgrade. -_-
 

LilJoka

Member
It wasn't OEM ;_; I built it with help a little under a year ago.
Well, that PSU is the result of living in Mexico, not having a big budget, and not having access to big quality retailers of Computer parts.

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll look into buying another PSU today, I guess 600W is enough? I'm also not sure what to look for in a PSU, I'm not really that well-informed ._.
I was kinda worried about upgrading my Mobo because of really annoying stuttering when accessing the HDD (I guess?), so I figured something in my build really needed upgrading.

Problem with PSU is its specs, not the Watts. A PSU wattage is not solely determined on the wattage advertised for use PC gamers as we need th bulk of the power to be delivered on the 12v rail. PSUs have 3 rails, 12v, 5v, and 3.3v. Crap PSUs will have majority of power on the 3.3v and 5v rails. So thats why a 700W PSU can be beaten by a 450W PSU.

Your 700W PSU has 36A on the 12v rail which is 430W. A decent PSU like a CM V550S (550W) has 45A (540W) on its 12v Rail. As you can see a 550W PSU just beat your 700W PSU. The V550S could support SLI of GTX 770's, your 700W would support a single GPU.

On top of that your PSU manufacturer states it delivers 60A on the 5V rail = 300W add the 432W on the 12v rail and we get close to 700W, except your main comonents use the 12v Rail, not the 5v Rail. The V550S only has 20A on the 5v rail which is more than sufficient. It screams of either falsified specifications, or poor quality.

Fuck.

My new GTX 770 is powerful, but now I have a problem with screen tearing. It seems that no matter what I do I simply cannot get rid of tearing in the original Borderlands when running at 60fps. Using the Adaptive Vsync 1/2 system I had before I get no tearing at 30fps, but shit, I don't have to play at 30fps anymore.

I couldn't get RadeonPro to work and I can't use D3DOverrider as I'm running Win 8.1

Is there anything I can do here? I'm almost regretting the upgrade. -_-

Try nVidia Inspectors Vsync options.
 
Fuck.

My new GTX 770 is powerful, but now I have a problem with screen tearing. It seems that no matter what I do I simply cannot get rid of tearing in the original Borderlands when running at 60fps. Using the Adaptive Vsync 1/2 system I had before I get no tearing at 30fps, but shit, I don't have to play at 30fps anymore.

I couldn't get RadeonPro to work and I can't use D3DOverrider as I'm running Win 8.1

Is there anything I can do here? I'm almost regretting the upgrade. -_-
Is RadeonPro even supposed to work with nVidia cards? Thought it's Radeon (so AMD) only.

On top of that your PSU manufacturer states it delivers 60A on the 5V rail = 300W add the 432W on the 12v rail and we get close to 700W, except your main comonents use the 12v Rail, not the 5v Rail. The V550S only has 20A on the 5v rail which is more than sufficient. It screams of either falsified specifications, or poor quality.

I'd bet on poor quality. The specs are something I'd expect from a OEM PSU, so most likely it's something like a OEM one

Will the Excellent configuration on Haz's ones with a 7950 be enough for gaming on ultra at 1080p?

Not sure on the newest games, but older ones? Definitely
 

maneil99

Member
Fuck.

My new GTX 770 is powerful, but now I have a problem with screen tearing. It seems that no matter what I do I simply cannot get rid of tearing in the original Borderlands when running at 60fps. Using the Adaptive Vsync 1/2 system I had before I get no tearing at 30fps, but shit, I don't have to play at 30fps anymore.

I couldn't get RadeonPro to work and I can't use D3DOverrider as I'm running Win 8.1

Is there anything I can do here? I'm almost regretting the upgrade. -_-

Use the in game vsync or buy a 144hz monitor :p
 

molnizzle

Member
Use the in game vsync or buy a 144hz monitor :p

What's this "monitor" you speak of? Is that what people used to use to play PC games on before Big Picture mode? Sounds rough. =P

I seem to have Borderlands running decently now with a combination of the in-game Vsync and turning off the "smooth frame rate" shit in the INI. It still tears every now and then, but that's the least evil solution that I've been able to find.
 
Fuck.

My new GTX 770 is powerful, but now I have a problem with screen tearing. It seems that no matter what I do I simply cannot get rid of tearing in the original Borderlands when running at 60fps. Using the Adaptive Vsync 1/2 system I had before I get no tearing at 30fps, but shit, I don't have to play at 30fps anymore.

I couldn't get RadeonPro to work and I can't use D3DOverrider as I'm running Win 8.1

Is there anything I can do here? I'm almost regretting the upgrade. -_-

Vsync?
 

kami_sama

Member
Is RadeonPro even supposed to work with nVidia cards? Thought it's Radeon (so AMD) only.



I'd bet on poor quality. The specs are something I'd expect from a OEM PSU, so most likely it's something like a OEM one



Not sure on the newest games, but older ones? Definitely
Right now I have a phenom 1055t, it will be an upgrade :p Will I be able to play graphics light games at 1440p?

Another thing, my drive's speed has dropped with time, it could be due to OS bloat, but from time to time it makes some loud noises. It's going to die soon, isn't it?
 
Right now I have a phenom 1055t, it will be an upgrade :p Will I be able to play graphics light games at 1440p?

Another thing, my drive's speed has dropped with time, it could be due to OS bloat, but from time to time it makes some loud noises. It's going to die soon, isn't it?

Wait what? I didn't think about the CPU part as I didn't know what your current one is, and since yyou were just talking about the GPU, I only thought about GPU changes. Welp, ofc you'll see a difference with that CPU upgrade, but depending on the games, it won't be a big one.

Don't ask me about 1440p stuff tho.

Loud noises in the sense of ? Like a a clicking or something like that? Or just a loud loading up ?
What HDD and how old is it?
Might just try to defrag it and use CCleaner to get rid of old useless files first.
 

kennah

Member
Gaf, I sold my 2 Crossover Korean 1440p monitors, and am in the market for a decent sized monitor that can do better than 1440p, I have $700 to spend. I'd prefer 4k, but can't find any good ones that are below $1000

Any recommendations from actual owners of 1440p and above?
The new Samsung one pretty regularly goes on sale for $700. I think smokey just got one?
The $200 I asked for my 4GB 670 in the B/S/T thread is reasonable right? Two on ebay at the moment with bids of 215 plus.
Great price.
Fuck.

My new GTX 770 is powerful, but now I have a problem with screen tearing. It seems that no matter what I do I simply cannot get rid of tearing in the original Borderlands when running at 60fps. Using the Adaptive Vsync 1/2 system I had before I get no tearing at 30fps, but shit, I don't have to play at 30fps anymore.

I couldn't get RadeonPro to work and I can't use D3DOverrider as I'm running Win 8.1

Is there anything I can do here? I'm almost regretting the upgrade. -_-
Time for 120hz monitor. I ran into the same issue when upgrading to a 670.
Will the Excellent configuration on Haz's ones with a 7950 be enough for gaming on ultra at 1080p?
Probably. Depends on the game and what frame rates you find acceptable.

Edit. Jumped the gun a little
 

kami_sama

Member
Wait what? I didn't think about the CPU part as I didn't know what your current one is, and since yyou were just talking about the GPU, I only thought about GPU changes. Welp, ofc you'll see a difference with that CPU upgrade, but depending on the games, it won't be a big one.

Don't ask me about 1440p stuff tho.

Loud noises in the sense of ? Like a a clicking or something like that? Or just a loud loading up ?
What HDD and how old is it?
Might just try to defrag it and use CCleaner to get rid of old useless files first.
OK, I'll do that. It's a 1 TB drive I don't want to throw away, even if it's slow. I think it's a 5400 rpm with sata 2.

And I want to change everything in my rig, except the graphics card and the psu.
 
First off: you're getting kinda annoying about this. He said that he would give it away to a gaffer. Not the first gaffer to remember and point it out. I imagine it would be through a contest that would give more people a chance to enter. Mkenyon is honorable but it would need to be done in due time and on his terms.

I.. eeh.. whut?
I'm sorry if I - in any kind of way - am annoying while posting infos about a PSU I wasn't sure about if it's actually a OEM china bomber or not, but I really don't know what you're talking about.

OK, I'll do that. It's a 1 TB drive I don't want to throw away, even if it's slow. I think it's a 5400 rpm with sata 2.

And I want to change everything in my rig, except the graphics card and the psu.

Well, 5200RPMs being loud is something strange. But for the slow loading times you mentioned, it isn't unlikely that a full disk-defrag and some cleaning with a program like CCleaner will pump up the speed a bit.
 
Gaf, need some advice if possible. I've been looking into upgrading my PC for awhile now, and I think I've found a build that, in the very least, is a good starting point.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI B85M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($58.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial M500 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.43 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($319.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $875.33
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-31 13:33 EDT-0400)

I want to stay around $800-900, and I'm only using this for gaming and internet browsing/school related stuff. Is there anything I should correct? I'm a little concerned with the wattage on my PSU...
 
Hey guys, I'm looking for a nice 1TB HDD for my upcoming build. Newegg emailed me a $10 off code for this HDD (Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB).

Comes out to $55 shipped. Does anyone have experience with this model? Thanks!


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...14-Index-_-InternalHardDrives-_-22148840-L02A

From what I heard, don't go with Seagate. 2 years warranty and shitty HDDs, vs Western Digital 5 years warranty and way better HDDs

// Okay, was wrong about the 5 year warranty, that's for Enterprise HDDs only. Still better value with this one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=western_digital-_-22-236-339-_-Product
 

LilJoka

Member
Hitachi make good drives and decent warranty. I think only WD Black has 5 year warranty.
Budget builds for my mates have Seagates and they are doing fine. I have the infamous 7200.11 in my rig and it's still ok lol.
 

Weetrick

Member
From what I heard, don't go with Seagate. 2 years warranty and shitty HDDs, vs Western Digital 5 years warranty and way better HDDs

Good to know. Looking into it more, it doesn't seem to be that great of a deal anyway. Thanks for the advice though! I'll shop around for a WD.
 
Gaf, need some advice if possible. I've been looking into upgrading my PC for awhile now, and I think I've found a build that, in the very least, is a good starting point.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI B85M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($58.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial M500 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.43 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($319.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $875.33
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-31 13:33 EDT-0400)

I want to stay around $800-900, and I'm only using this for gaming and internet browsing/school related stuff. Is there anything I should correct? I'm a little concerned with the wattage on my PSU...


Go with a "K" i5-4670, or just go with the cheapest i5 available, as non "K" aren't overclockable, and the higher price isn't really worth the light boost.
If you want to OC; you'd need a "Z" series mobo tho, and a CPU cooler
Samsung EVO SSDs are a bit better in reading/writing than the Crucial one
I'd go with a Western Digital HDD
 

kennah

Member
I.. eeh.. whut?
I'm sorry if I - in any kind of way - am annoying while posting infos about a PSU I wasn't sure about if it's actually a OEM china bomber or not, but I really don't know what you're talking about.



Well, 5200RPMs being loud is something strange. But for the slow loading times you mentioned, it isn't unlikely that a full disk-defrag and some cleaning with a program like CCleaner will pump up the speed a bit.

Nah you're ok. I got you mixed up with someone else. Really really sorry.
 
Nah you're ok. I got you mixed up with someone else. Really really sorry.

Glad to her, and no problem haha
Was kinda shocked for a moment. Must have looked like this:

t_9f5747a0-647f-11e1-afaa-c16d0c100001.jpg
 

Dries

Member
1. Yes, you can keep it in OC-mode. I don't think anyone sets things back again when they are not playing a game.

2. Setting Vcore manually is better. With auto Vcore you have no control over how high it is going to be. It probably uses a bit more voltage than it needs. The issue with that, besides using more power, is that the temperatures rise.

3. Below 70 is perfectly fine and even when you are higher than that things don't have to be suddenly wrong.

4. I think blend was the best one yes, not entirely sure anymore but I think it is correct. Some do it for 24 hours, but you'll probably be fine too to have it like 8 hours or even way less.. It completely utilizes your CPU, so you know whether the voltage you have is enough, because otherwise it makes mistakes and can crash. It will also use the most voltage, which means the highest temperatures. So you can see whether your temperature stays below 70.

5. No, not really. The 700W also isn't a hard limit, it depends on the PSU how much is safe to utilize. You'll most likely be fine though. Especially if you only have 1 GPU.

1) Yes, if your board supports an adaptive Vcore, such as an offset mode, then the Vcore will scale with CPU load and Clock speed. This will prolong your CPU, and means itll run cooler at idle. Offset can require more Vcore overall though, as stability is sometimes harder to achieve. Always start with offset though, if you arent getting close to the OC you want, switch to Fixed vcore and see how it goes. That will tell you if its just a crap CPU/Mobo.

2a) You dont want to leave Vcore at idle as 90% time its more voltage than really needed, which means excessive heat at load situtations. And excessive degradation compared to the optimal Vcore.

2b) Yes this is what you want to do. Run 10-15min Prime95 tests with Small FFT to get you in the ball park for the optimal Vcore. See earlier for leaving at AUTO...

3) Yes 58c is fine, push to 70c.

4) Prime95 small fft for getting in the ball park Vcore. Then finally running longer Prime95 Blend - Custom with 90% RAM tested. I recommend 2hours minimum.

5) No it wont be at the limit at all you dont need to worry about this. My 3960x pulls 250W at 4.5Ghz. Your CPU wont be getting anywhere close, and i run a 650W PSU. As long as you have a decent quality PSU you have nothing to worry about. HWmonitor can give an indication of power consumption, but that only really got somewhat accurate after sandy bridge CPUs.

Thanks dudes. Now I've set my Vcore just a tad bit under the value which it set itself upon once I changed my Clock Ratio.
 
Just saw that the Parvum Systems S2.0 is being sold in Germany now, and I really like the design of the case.
But.. umm, 260$ is too much for me. Keeping in mind that there's not a single fan inside, I'd need at least 3 seperate ones, and there's no way I'm going to spend 300bucks for a case.

Are there any similar cases like the Parvum?
I don't care about the side window that much, but how it's built up inside.
Wouldn't mind a case with 120/140mm fans at the rear, 3x80 ones would be like a Boing 747 anyways.
 

Scythian

Member
something like these:

Oh, okay I see.
Well, wait for others to comment about the PSU, but I'd say get a decent one. 600watt is kinda oversized though. 500-550 is enough for almost all cards, except the high end ones.
What do you mean by "stuttering when accessing the HDD"?

For example, when I'm installing a program on my computer, and listening to music at the same time, the audio and the whole computer stutters for a second, then it resumes working normally, granted, it doesn't happen that often, it is worrying when it does happen D:
 

Smokey

Member
Gaf, I sold my 2 Crossover Korean 1440p monitors, and am in the market for a decent sized monitor that can do better than 1440p, I have $700 to spend. I'd prefer 4k, but can't find any good ones that are below $1000

Any recommendations from actual owners of 1440p and above?

I am using the Samsung U28D590 4k monitor. It's <$700. It's not without it's faults. The stand is not adjustable and it is a TN panel.

There's also this Asus PB287Q 4K monitor. Supposed to come in <$700.

It uses the same panel as the Samsung but the stand is far superior. You can actually adjust it, tilt, it and use swivel. Neither are perfect, but for their price they are a nice entry into 4k IMO.

Just make sure you have the hardware to push games at that res if you go this route.
 
For example, when I'm installing a program on my computer, and listening to music at the same time, the audio and the whole computer stutters for a second, then it resumes working normally, granted, it doesn't happen that often, it is worrying when it does happen D:
Never had anything like that, but seems like a more than slow HDD to me.
How much space is used up on your 1TB drive by the way?
 

Scythian

Member
Never had anything like that, but seems like a more than slow HDD to me.
How much space is used up on your 1TB drive by the way?

It's a 2TB, and it's used up very little space,around 40GB
I recently formatted and reinstalled windows. This is a replacement for my old 1TB, since I was having another issue, the computer would freeze the cursor icon (for example, if it changed to the ' I ' icon when writing), then the whole PC would freeze for a few seconds, then unfreeze, freeze and repeat until I restarted it; I changed my GPU for the 650 and it was resolved.
 

Lagaff

Gub'mint Researcher
Gaf, I sold my 2 Crossover Korean 1440p monitors, and am in the market for a decent sized monitor that can do better than 1440p, I have $700 to spend. I'd prefer 4k, but can't find any good ones that are below $1000

Any recommendations from actual owners of 1440p and above?

Did you find those korean monitor good for gaming ?
 

Zaru

Member
It's a bit late since I already bought it, but did I make a mistake with the power supply?
I bought an EVGA Supernova NEX650G. My (not yet assembled, the parts haven't arrived yet) new PC will likely not even cross 500 Watt under full load (Xeon 1231v3, GTX 770, 1 SSD and HDD each, PCPartspicker says around 430W) so an overdimensioned PSU will probably waste quite a bit of power during normal use (with the graphics card not working hard, it will probably use even less)

Should I return it and try to get a decent 500/550 Watt PSU instead? I don't plan on putting anything extra in there (like SLI or something)
 
It's a bit late since I already bought it, but did I make a mistake with the power supply?
I bought an EVGA Supernova NEX650G. My (not yet assembled, the parts haven't arrived yet) new PC will likely not even cross 500 Watt under full load (Xeon 1231v3, GTX 770, 1 SSD and HDD each, PCPartspicker says around 430W) so an overdimensioned PSU will probably waste quite a bit of power during normal use (with the graphics card not working hard, it will probably use even less)

Should I return it and try to get a decent 500/550 Watt PSU instead? I don't plan on putting anything extra in there (like SLI or something)

In this case, yeah I would. Get something from Corsair or Coolermaster in the 500watt range, best 80Gold.

//
It's a 2TB, and it's used up very little space,around 40GB
I recently formatted and reinstalled windows. This is a replacement for my old 1TB, since I was having another issue, the computer would freeze the cursor icon (for example, if it changed to the ' I ' icon when writing), then the whole PC would freeze for a few seconds, then unfreeze, freeze and repeat until I restarted it; I changed my GPU for the 650 and it was resolved.

Sry missed your post.
To be honest, this is out of my knowledge. The only reason I could think of would either be a damn slow HDD for whatever reason, which I can't see here. Or a faulty HDD, which I don't believe to be the reason.
 

Chinbo37

Member
Hi guys, hope this is the right thread or at least someone can help me.

I recently purchased a used, authentic Sega Saturn USB controller. I pluged it into my PS3 and it worked great, this controller feels great in Soul Calibur 5!


Well that was a couple months ago and I just built a new PC so I thought I would play some MegaMan on a NES emulator. However, the DPad (and some of the buttons) dont seem to be working! I ran the Windows Game Controller program and it shows the controller and some of hte buttons register, but the DPad isnt working at all? Im a bit stumped not sure what to do, there are no drivers for this controller it just uses the Windows HID drivers.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks


Oh one thing I just noticed, on the Windows Game Controller program, it shows 9 buttons, some seem to be lit up like they are constantly being pressed, but I assure you the buttons are not being pressed down. Those that arent lit up can be pressed and seem to be functioning normally, again nothing on the DPad. I tried a USB 2.0 and 3.0 port.
 

Mohasus

Member
Fuck.

My new GTX 770 is powerful, but now I have a problem with screen tearing. It seems that no matter what I do I simply cannot get rid of tearing in the original Borderlands when running at 60fps. Using the Adaptive Vsync 1/2 system I had before I get no tearing at 30fps, but shit, I don't have to play at 30fps anymore.

I couldn't get RadeonPro to work and I can't use D3DOverrider as I'm running Win 8.1

Is there anything I can do here? I'm almost regretting the upgrade. -_-

After disabling dynamic shadows, I could run the game easily at 60fps locked with a 660 @1440p.

For some reason, I have way more screen tearing with adaptive v-sync than without v-sync at all (when a game isn't at 60fps).
 

DoctorZ

Member
Well, my favorite mITX cases:

Fractal Design Node 304
Silverstone Raven RVZ01
Silverstone SG08
Lian Li PC-Q08

Some requiere SFX PSUs, small CPU coolers, and things like that

OK, let me expand my question. I've been getting advice from GAF the past few days on a downsize from my CM Storm Scout to a more portable case.

What would be some mITX cases GAF would recommend that fit...

GTX 480 (9.5-10")
HX620 PSU (150mm) Semi modular, which I know can be a problem in the Node 304, but I'm pretty sure it'll fit.
2 x 3.5" HDD
Hyper 212+ Hestsink (I'm willing to buy a low profile one if needed)

Obviously I'd need a mITX mobo, so I'd go with a cheap one without 6GBps since I probably won't get an SSD anytime soon.

As of right now I am leaning toward the Silverstone SG09 since its a bit lighter than the SG10 and is about as small of a mATX case as you can get. I would not need to buy any new parts (i.e. mITX mobo, heatsink, etc) and would just move my current PC over to it for a portable system.
 
OK, let me expand my question. I've been getting advice from GAF the past few days on a downsize from my CM Storm Scout to a more portable case.

What would be some mITX cases GAF would recommend that fit...

GTX 480 (9.5-10")
HX620 PSU (150mm) Semi modular, which I know can be a problem in the Node 304, but I'm pretty sure it'll fit.
2 x 3.5" HDD
Hyper 212+ Hestsink (I'm willing to buy a low profile one if needed)

Obviously I'd need a mITX mobo, so I'd go with a cheap one without 6GBps since I probably won't get an SSD anytime soon.

As of right now I am leaning toward the Silverstone SG09 since its a bit lighter than the SG10 and is about as small of a mATX case as you can get. I would not need to buy any new parts (i.e. mITX mobo, heatsink, etc) and would just move my current PC over to it for a portable system.

Node 304
 

Zaru

Member
In this case, yeah I would. Get something from Corsair or Coolermaster in the 500watt range, best 80Gold.

Would the Seasonic G-550 be a good choice? The reviews make it sound quite excellent and it should have more than enough power for the GTX 770 with room to spare for additional stuff I might put in later (but not so much waste as with the EVGA 650)
 

kharma45

Member
Would the Seasonic G-550 be a good choice? The reviews make it sound quite excellent and it should have more than enough power for the GTX 770 with room to spare for additional stuff I might put in later (but not so much waste as with the EVGA 650)

It would be. What country are you in?
 
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