Not that I know of.I've mostly lived in Vancouver and so I bought systems I could spec online and have assembled, from NCIX or local competitors. Can anyone recommend any online stores for American purchasers that'll do that?
Have a beer.Posting this after I upgraded a CPU for the first time (i3 2100 to i7 3770k)...Lord Jesus in Heaven, I've never been so terrified to turn a computer back on in my life. XD
One of the wires got snagged while I was putting the heatsink in (that's what I get for not paying attention -_-), so I ended up having to clean the heatsink and CPU off, drive to Best Buy to get thermal grease since my dumbass didn't buy it while I was at Micro Center, reapply it, and then put everything back together again. Then I got scared as hell when Chrome didn't run well...until I checked Steam and realized I was downloading something, LOL.
So yeah. It wasn't nearly as hard as I was expecting, but it was still one of the scariest upgrades I've ever done for my computer. I'm really glad I did it though.
Is there anything else I should do now?
Sounds like a bad slot. Will probably require an RMA.Alright, I got Windows 8.1 up and running great so far.
But RAM is still being a bitch, only works with 1 stick in a certain slot from what I can tell.
I'm gonna have to investigate this further, but for now 4GB will be fine.
Thanks, sir. I don't really know how fast the computer gaming world moves so I didn't know if the builds in the OP were out of date or not. I still feel like there's too much that I can screw up, or stuff that might drive me nuts. I see all the folks in here with weird compatibility issues other issues that require lots of time and effort to troubleshoot. I know myself, and I will get frustrated when things don't work and I worry about the endless cycle of "tweak this, but this breaks, so tweak this, but..." that can happen if you don't know what your'e doing.
Fuck. Fuckity fuck. I do not want to have to replace the mobo dammit!Sounds like a bad slot. Will probably require an RMA.
Woah woah, you tried the other sticks of RAM in the same slot and they work? Just making sure.Fuck. Fuckity fuck. I do not want to have to replace the mobo dammit!
How much of a performance hit would 1 8GB DIMM vs dual channel bring D:
Ugh. serves me for not testing the mobo out of the case first :'(
#scrublife
Gonna need to post more info than that. Voltage? Offset? VCC? Temps? The OCN guide is pretty through.Could I have a bad CPU or motherboard? Following the overclocking guide in the OP and did 4.0 easily through the bios(what I have had it at) but trying to it up 41 or higher just makes my entire PC freeze/crash and requires resetting it on the motherboard.
Get through occt test for 4.0 without issues.
I have a question for all of you! A poll sort of, I guess.
Do you prefer putting out money on a higher wattage PSU, and when the time comes to upgrade, grabbing a second GPU and running SLI/Crossfire? Or would you rather have a lower wattage PSU and to upgrade, sell the old and buy the new? I'm curious because I'm undecided on this.
Gonna need to post more info than that. Voltage? Offset? VCC? Temps? The OCN guide is pretty through.
I have a question for all of you! A poll sort of, I guess.
Do you prefer putting out money on a higher wattage PSU, and when the time comes to upgrade, grabbing a second GPU and running SLI/Crossfire? Or would you rather have a lower wattage PSU and to upgrade, sell the old and buy the new? I'm curious because I'm undecided on this.
Have a couple lying around for testing purposes or just fitting the job right. I have an AX650, Seasonic 860W plat, and AX760i. Might grab one of those EVGA G2 1200W in case I get a wild hair and decide to get another two 290sI have a question for all of you! A poll sort of, I guess.
Do you prefer putting out money on a higher wattage PSU, and when the time comes to upgrade, grabbing a second GPU and running SLI/Crossfire? Or would you rather have a lower wattage PSU and to upgrade, sell the old and buy the new? I'm curious because I'm undecided on this.
I have a question for all of you! A poll sort of, I guess.
Do you prefer putting out money on a higher wattage PSU, and when the time comes to upgrade, grabbing a second GPU and running SLI/Crossfire? Or would you rather have a lower wattage PSU and to upgrade, sell the old and buy the new? I'm curious because I'm undecided on this.
What CPU/MBFollowing this guide step by step
Voltage set to 1.13, load calibration set to extreme, turbo turned off, and OC'd to 4.0. Going any further just causes everything to stop working and I don't know why :/ 43C at idle which seems high but it completes the OCCT and never goes higher than 75 on any of the cores after an hour.
I did notice when I reset the motherboard that at default the motherboard has the voltage set to 1.225.......which doesn't seem like it should happen.
Set manual Voltage to 1.28V and see if it can get into Windows at 4.1Ghz (41 multi)Following this guide step by step
Voltage set to 1.13, load calibration set to extreme, turbo turned off, and OC'd to 4.0. Going any further just causes everything to stop working and I don't know why :/ 43C at idle which seems high but it completes the OCCT and never goes higher than 75 on any of the cores after an hour.
I did notice when I reset the motherboard that at default the motherboard has the voltage set to 1.225.......which doesn't seem like it should happen. Tried the overclock at that voltage just to see if it'd work as the guide does say there will be variability in what yo need but the issue remains.
GELID and mwave/eBay are best betguys I need some VRM heat sink for R9 290 the temperature with Kraken G10 w/ x60 are near 88 deg C.
Any please I can get them fast ? I am in Canada.
Buy a good 550W or 750/850W unit depending on your budget and what you think you will do with the PC. Really only two choices unless you go super high end and then you should drop the money on a bigger supply.I have a question for all of you! A poll sort of, I guess.
Do you prefer putting out money on a higher wattage PSU, and when the time comes to upgrade, grabbing a second GPU and running SLI/Crossfire? Or would you rather have a lower wattage PSU and to upgrade, sell the old and buy the new? I'm curious because I'm undecided on this.
i53570K
GA-Z77X-UD5H
Man, I went over my computer parts purchases since 2011. My GTX 570 was $349, GTX 670 was $398, then I got a 780 TI Classified in 2013 for $726. I think my next GPU purchase will be over $1000. To make matters worse, I've upgraded GPU's every year, but I definitely can't this year and probably can't next year until very late 2015 at the earliest. I'm going to go through with GPU withdrawl aka the Smokey syndrome.
If that does not work try Offset
If that does not work try the OC for me pls button
It's just to figure out if it was a voltage hump or not, continue tweaking from there with lower voltages.Seems to be working at 1.28, was just put off by the guide getting to 4.6 with the vcore only set to 1.18 and them starting at 1.1
Learning experience! Overclocking a GPU is much less complicated, lol.
Edit: Really appreciate the help!
There is Offset overclocking (tweaking the auto voltage) and Manual.What do you mean by "try Offset" and the "OC for me pls button"?
1.5GBQuick GTX question guys. I run one of the overclocked GTX580 3gb cards and have been offered a GTX590 3gb for a good price.
My question is-I know its 2x870s stuck together so will games see it as 1.5gb in sli? This I don't want due to all the problems with running a proper sli setup.
1.5GB
Define good price, I wouldn't want one of those in my machine.
There is Offset overclocking (tweaking the auto voltage) and Manual.
Then you + or - that in the simple sense.So basically Offset overclocking is just running with the Vcore that your CPU automatically hands out to you when you tweak the Clock Ratio?
Then you + or - that in the simple sense.
So if 4.4Ghz is 1.28V on Offset you apply -0.02 and run 1.26V. The main benefit is you can use the voltage stepping to help conserve power.
Also note that we're running our memory at 1600MHz
DDR stands for Double Data Rate, so whatever the number CPU-Z shows is doubled to get your speed. So both your sticks of RAM are running at 800x2 = 1600MHzIn CPUz my memory is running at 798.1 Mhz. I have 2 x 4GB of RAM, so should I multiply that 800Mhz by 2 which would get me that 1600 MHz they're talking about in that guide?
Or is my full 8 GB of RAM running at a total of 800 Mhz?
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Since no one visits the OC thread:
ASUS clocks like poop and hits thermal problems before more volts can cure it, may do better under water, but whatever. MSI did a ton better and if I submit to HWbot would have the fastest stock 290 IN US AMERICA.
P14940 - MSI R9 290 (1200/1625/+100mV/+50PL) - 3770K @ 4.5Ghz - 8GB Samsung DDR3 @ 1600 - ASUS Gene V - Hazaro - Kraken X60 Water - Link 3DM11
10921 - MSI R9 290 (1200/1625/+100mV/+50PL) - 3770K @ 4.5Ghz - 8GB Samsung DDR3 @ 1600 - ASUS Gene V - Hazaro - Kraken X60 Water - Link 3DMark - Fire Strike
2911 / 69.6FPS - MSI R9 290 (1200/1625/+100mV/+50PL) - 3770K @ 4.5Ghz - 8GB Samsung DDR3 @ 1600 - ASUS Gene V - Hazaro - Kraken X60 Water - Link Valley EHD
Ah well, I'm anticipating Saints Row IV going for silly-low prices in the Steam summer-sale anyway, so I can live with that.
Yes, or you could stick with the Z97 and get a 4790K so you can overclock.Thanks for your help. Would a ASRock H97 Pro4 do?
Hey guys I plan on a almost complete update of my PC, here is what I plan on buying:
GPU: ASUS GTX-770 DirectCU II (GK104, 2GB)
Mainboard: ASUS MAXIMUS VII RANGER (LGA 1150, Z97, ATX)
CPU: Intel Core i7 4790 BOX (LGA 1150, 3.60GHz)
CPU fan: Cooler Master Hyper TX3 Evo (120mm)
Power: Cooler Master V700 (700W)
Case: Fractal Define R4 - Black Pearl
I will take my 120GB SSD, 16GB RAM, 1TB HDD and BD drive from my old PC and put them into the new one.
What do you guys think? Are all components I plan on buying compatible with each other?
Thank you very much already in advance!![]()
Guys about to do a window 8.1 install and wondering what type of account I should make? As I understand I can make a local account and lose some features or the one that connects to a Microsoft account, any tips?
Using a Microsoft account to log in to your PC allows you to use the Microsoft Store, among other things like simpler integration for Microsoft applications like One Drive and Skype. If you're not interested in those features, just use a standard Windows user account.
What is the Microsoft Store?