"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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It's more cooler, gpu and power supply that will need considering. The mobo choice is solid. Take a 4790k instead of the 4770k

Ah yeah I meant the 4790k. Will update my post.

Is the cooler I choose (Cooler Master Seidon 120XL) up to the task if it fits? I have only used heatsinks in the past so this is sort of new territory for me.
 
fuuuudge

so, built the new PC, everything works great

except... the internet is SUPER slow. I have a PLEK400 Powerline adapter, when I use it with my laptop the internet speed is fine (aka what it should be), but when I use it with my desktop pc it's SUPER slow. Tested with speedtest. The adapter driver is the e2200 killer one, I've tried overwriting it with the "regular" driver and that didn't help. Tried a different port on the router, restarting the router, downloading new drivers, etc. etc. nothing helps. Anyone got an idea of what I could do? It's frustrating 'cause it can't be the powerline, which works with my laptop.
 
I use realtemp or hwmonitor for cpu and EVGA Precision X for gpu.

I've moved to MSI Afterburner instead of EVGA Precision for 64bit game support.

fuuuudge

so, built the new PC, everything works great

except... the internet is SUPER slow. I have a PLEK400 Powerline adapter, when I use it with my laptop the internet speed is fine (aka what it should be), but when I use it with my desktop pc it's SUPER slow. Tested with speedtest. The adapter driver is the e2200 killer one, I've tried overwriting it with the "regular" driver and that didn't help. Tried a different port on the router, restarting the router, downloading new drivers, etc. etc. nothing helps. Anyone got an idea of what I could do? It's frustrating 'cause it can't be the powerline, which works with my laptop.

Test the onboard LAN first. And in my experience Intel NICs are still the best and get the best reliability too. Intel's drivers are pretty top notch.
 
I've moved to MSI Afterburner instead of EVGA Precision for 64bit game support.



Test the onboard LAN first. And in my experience Intel NICs are still the best and get the best reliability too. Intel's drivers are pretty top notch.

how do I test the onboard LAN?
 
Ok IMO it's a big marketing scam, a Killer NIC is just a normal NIC (Atheros chipset) which used Killer software to provide management. And Killer software is not so stable.

Unfortunately they didn't even provide the Intel LAN on that board instead provided only the Killer NIC.

I would try this guide:
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/guide-turn-your-killer-e2200-nic-into-qualcomm-athero-ar8161.198899/

I tried that already, didn't help :( It's not even like it's just a bit slower, I'm literally runninng on 1-2mb/sec vs the normal 25.
 
I tried that already, didn't help :( It's not even like it's just a bit slower, I'm literally runninng on 1-2mb/sec vs the normal 25.

Ok can we eliminate the power line adaptor by connecting directly to the router? (I know the laptop is ok but it's on an Intel NIC).
What OS are you using?
 
Ok can we eliminate the power line adaptor by connecting directly to the router? (I know the laptop is ok but it's on an Intel NIC).
What OS are you using?

On my laptop, W7, on the PC, W8.1.

And I can't connect it directly to the router because the router is in the living room. If I could connect it directly I wouldn't need the powerline adapter to begin with. :P
 
Has anybody here experimented with running a dedicated PhysX card in a 4x PCI-E slot? I intend to move up from two 670s to two 870s (or perhaps 880s if the price is right) and am toying with the idea of keeping my generic 670 for PhysX purposes, but I'm wondering if a 4x slot will be too constrictive for this to be a worthwhile endeavour.
 
Hey guys, sorry if this is not the right place for this - but I can't think of any better place to get help. Yesterday my screen flickered during half a second and then the GPU temp started skyrocketing - gained more than 20º in two seconds, from the usual 29º idle to 56º and didn't seem to go down. I switched the computer off in a hurry and didn't turn it on until today - it seemed working correctly, if a bit hot (32/33º idling - it's been a hot summer in Ireland so it's not worrying me a lot)

My wife thinks it might have been a power spike but technically the power strip is surge-proof. I built the PC myself more than a year ago. Any thoughts?
 
Has anybody here experimented with running a dedicated PhysX card in a 4x PCI-E slot? I intend to move up from two 670s to two 870s (or perhaps 880s if the price is right) and am toying with the idea of keeping my generic 670 for PhysX purposes, but I'm wondering if a 4x slot will be too constrictive for this to be a worthwhile endeavour.

No point, physx is being run on dedicated hardware, you'll have more overhead running it seperatly probably. Plus the extra noise and power consumption.
 
Hey guys, sorry if this is not the right place for this - but I can't think of any better place to get help. Yesterday my screen flickered during half a second and then the GPU temp started skyrocketing - gained more than 20º in two seconds, from the usual 29º idle to 56º and didn't seem to go down. I switched the computer off in a hurry and didn't turn it on until today - it seemed working correctly, if a bit hot (32/33º idling - it's been a hot summer in Ireland so it's not worrying me a lot)

My wife thinks it might have been a power spike but technically the power strip is surge-proof. I built the PC myself more than a year ago. Any thoughts?

Where are you reading these temperatures from as they are very low, GPU danger zone is 90c+
Why not play a game and record the temperatures, the card isn't going to die instantly if it overheats (100c+).
 
Fixed or offset vcore?
If it's offset try a fixed vcore with a few extra notches and see if it holds up.
I have a feeling this is a motherboard issue, not the overclock though.

Fixed vcore. Haven't fiddled with offset at all.

Does it do it when it isn't overclocked?

The cold boot problem I've always had. Even when my CPU wasn't overclocked. My vcore was set to AUTO back then. Recently since I've gotten into overclocking, in addition to the cold boot problem, I also get this error screen I've showed in this post. This screen only shows in combination with a cold boot btw. Usually happens the first time I turn it on in the morning. After that, during the day it'll mostly boot up fine.

But I'm passing OCCT and Prime95 perfectly well! And my system is running all my games etc great, so I don't know why my PC is complaining so much :P
 
Has anybody here experimented with running a dedicated PhysX card in a 4x PCI-E slot? I intend to move up from two 670s to two 870s (or perhaps 880s if the price is right) and am toying with the idea of keeping my generic 670 for PhysX purposes, but I'm wondering if a 4x slot will be too constrictive for this to be a worthwhile endeavour.
Saw a video for this once with Batman Arkham Origins. Ran worse with the dedicated old physx card.
 
Where are you reading these temperatures from as they are very low, GPU danger zone is 90c+
Why not play a game and record the temperatures, the card isn't going to die instantly if it overheats (100c+).

SpeedFan and the nVidia desktop gadget. Keep in mind that those are idle temperatures - for example, it easily gets to 70 when playing Wolfenstein TNO. I haven't tried gaming on the PC since this happened - I'll give it a shot later, thank you.
 
Fixed vcore. Haven't fiddled with offset at all.



The cold boot problem I've always had. Even when my CPU wasn't overclocked. My vcore was set to AUTO back then. Recently since I've gotten into overclocking, in addition to the cold boot problem, I also get this error screen I've showed in this post. This screen only shows in combination with a cold boot btw. Usually happens the first time I turn it on in the morning. After that, during the day it'll mostly boot up fine.

But I'm passing OCCT and Prime95 perfectly well! And my system is running all my games etc great, so I don't know why my PC is complaining so much :P

Disable C States and Intel Speedstep.
I think this is still an inherent motherboard issue, you are not the only one reporting issues from my googling.

The message you recieve is triggered when the machine is Overclocked and fails to POST, the board assumes it's the overclock but we know it's not. The issue is likely not overclock related but totally down to the board and it bios failing to POST due to some bug and then throwing up that error.
 
SpeedFan and the nVidia desktop gadget. Keep in mind that those are idle temperatures - for example, it easily gets to 70 when playing Wolfenstein TNO. I haven't tried gaming on the PC since this happened - I'll give it a shot later, thank you.

70c is perfectly acceptable. Speedfan is outdated junk, use GPUz for GPU sensor information or HWmonitor. I don't know about desktop gadgets but if it's third party software it's probably also junk.
 
I'll be switching my PC to a new case tommorow, anything I should know about the process?

Also when did RAM get so expensive? I bought 8 gigs for like 30 GBP like 2 years ago, now it's all like 70 GBP.
 
Disable C States and Intel Speedstep.
I think this is still an inherent motherboard issue, you are not the only one reporting issues from my googling.

The message you recieve is triggered when the machine is Overclocked and fails to POST, the board assumes it's the overclock but we know it's not. The issue is likely not overclock related but totally down to the board and it bios failing to POST due to some bug and then throwing up that error.

Thanks for the info bro. Concerning Intel Speedstep: To me, this sounds like something I would want to have enabled though? It seems beneficial that my CPU will downclock it's Clock Ratio when it's idle or performing small tasks and it will only go (max) stock speed when performing on load. That sounds logical to me. To have it at max stock speed at all times (even in idle mode) doesn't seem too healthy for the CPU. Or am I seeing this all wrong?
 
I'll be switching my PC to a new case tommorow, anything I should know about the process?

Also when did RAM get so expensive? I bought 8 gigs for like 30 GBP like 2 years ago, now it's all like 70 GBP.
When the factory burned down and ddr4 started getting made.
 
Thanks for the info bro. Concerning Intel Speedstep: To me, this sounds like something I would want to have enabled though? It seems beneficial that my CPU will downclock it's Clock Ratio when it's idle or performing small tasks and it will only go (max) stock speed when performing on load. That sounds logical to me. To have it at max stock speed at all times (even in idle mode) doesn't seem too healthy for the CPU. Or am I seeing this all wrong?

No you are 100% correct, but it can be a factor with bootup whilst overclocked. When you tested with Prime95/OCCT you never tested any of the transitional states, meaning the only thing that you proved stable was your max clock and max vcore state. Its something to check temporarily, if it has no impact on your current situation you can re-enable them. This issue is less prevalent on fixed vcore overclocks, but still something to check.
 
Has anybody here experimented with running a dedicated PhysX card in a 4x PCI-E slot? I intend to move up from two 670s to two 870s (or perhaps 880s if the price is right) and am toying with the idea of keeping my generic 670 for PhysX purposes, but I'm wondering if a 4x slot will be too constrictive for this to be a worthwhile endeavour.
Yes and it's not worth it. I have a gtx 750ti boost I used as a physx card with my gtx 780ti. The only game it helped was ass creed 4. Everywhere else not so much
 
When you tested with Prime95/OCCT you never tested any of the transitional states

Is there actually any way to test this?

So for now I disabled EIST and C states. Let's see if I notice improvement. I hope I'm not "damaging" my CPU too much though by having my clock ratio maxed 24/7.
 
Is there actually any way to test this?

So for now I disabled EIST and C states. Let's see if I notice improvement. I hope I'm not "damaging" my CPU too much though by having my clock ratio maxed 24/7.

No the CPU wont get damaged at all.
And no the only way to test is everyday usage, my best methods include testing with programs that provide variations in load Prime95 blend can help when the test change from one FFT to an another, but that is once every 15minutes by default. This is generally why when overclocking its advised to disable these features. Because they are too much of an unknown. Some CPUs will happily work with the power saving features, its down to how lucky you are in the silicon lottery. The ideal chip has very good voltage scaling, low leakage, and good VID's for each multi to allow offset overclocking with all power saving features.

So i tend to use other things too, realbench, unigene heaven with low settings vsync off and a bit of Aida64. But general usage is the best, usually BSOD during idle situations is a tell tell sign, and since youve never reported that, my feeling are still that no matter what you change in the BIOS its got some inherent bug which is causing failed POST from cold boot. Nothing to do with the overclock.
 
So, I am looking through Haz's builds, specifically the Silverstone RVZ01 HTPC one, and I can't find a Maximus VII Impact motherboard from ASUS as recommended. Is that supposed to be a Maximus VI Impact?
 
One final question about the Silverstone Enthusiast Haswell HTPC build.

Will that Silverstone PSU be able to handle all of the recommended hardware?
 
Hi PCGaf!

I'm getting into PC gaming again and want to upgrade my 2y old gaming PC. Since I lost the track a little in the hardware world I want to know something.

I game on 1080p resolution, and since my 1GB HD 6870 can't handle that longer I was wondering what amount of vram I need now. Is 3GB enough or better go for 4GB? I can't seem to find any good and low priced cards with 4GB of vram so I was wondering if 3GB will be futureproof.

Thanks in advance!
 
Hi PCGaf!

I'm getting into PC gaming again and want to upgrade my 2y old gaming PC. Since I lost the track a little in the hardware world I want to know something.

I game on 1080p resolution, and since my 1GB HD 6870 can't handle that longer I was wondering what amount of vram I need now. Is 3GB enough or better go for 4GB? I can't seem to find any good and low priced cards with 4GB of vram so I was wondering if 3GB will be futureproof.

Thanks in advance!

Even at this stage 2GB is still fine. A good sweet spot card though is something like the 280 or 280X. 3GB VRAM and plenty of power.
 
As long as it's the PCI cables then it's all good. In my picture above, it's one cable that has a 6pin and a 6+2 pin connectors and it works fine.



It does but it's like 1 to 2c difference. Are you having issues with your temps?

Sorry for not answering I fell asleep after asking, I ask because I just built the PC a month ago, temps at idle were at 29-33°C and now I'm getting 34-39°C, room temperature has been the same or colder. Prime95 gave me 67°max and now I'm getting 75°C and don't have a clue why. CPU is a 4670k and I'm afraid I'm not gonna have much room for OC'ing since I do emulation.

And it's only been a month, I was thinking of reapplying the thermal paste with the pea method but with Arctic Silver and cleaning dust inside the radiator with those Amazon blowers.

Arctic silver was the thing years ago. Now what comes with the hyper 212 is just as good

I was afraid of that answer :/
 
Even at this stage 2GB is still fine. A good sweet spot card though is something like the 280 or 280X. 3GB VRAM and plenty of power.

Thanks!

Maybe I'll be starting a war with this question(don't kill me), were do I get most bang for my buck, AMD or Nvidia?
 
Thanks!

Maybe I'll be starting a war with this question(don't kill me), were do I get most bang for my buck, AMD or Nvidia?

AMD.

Nvidia's stuff in isolation is still good, and you could make a case for the 760 and 780, but in terms of raw performance per pound/dollar AMD is on top at the minute. Nvidia does have a nicer, more mature software offering with the likes of G-Sync, Shadowplay etc. but AMD is beginning to make progress in that area too.

Where are you in the world and what's your budget? Don't forget you can still sell your old card too and get a bit of extra cash too.
 
So I removed my HDD and SSD but realized that I can't remove the Sata cable from the power supply, it's going directly inside the power supply itself rather than connecting to it. What can I do? Just buy some Sata cables for my new rig?
 
AMD.

Nvidia's stuff in isolation is still good, and you could make a case for the 760 and 780, but in terms of raw performance per pound/dollar AMD is on top at the minute. Nvidia does have a nicer, more mature software offering with the likes of G-Sync, Shadowplay etc. but AMD is beginning to make progress in that area too.

Where are you in the world and what's your budget? Don't forget you can still sell your old card too and get a bit of extra cash too.

I live in Belgium, and my budget is max 750 euros. I'll go with AMD then.

What is a better choice, the 280X VaporX OC or Toxic. Since Toxic has 3 fans I guess it's better at keeping the card cool?
 
Wait are you building from scratch again?

I plan on keeping my case, RAM and HDD. All the other components like my MB and CPU are too old now I think.

I can't get my MB type out of my head but it's one from ASrock, a very cheap one. My CPU is an i5 3450 at 3,1 GHz.
 
I plan on keeping my case, RAM and HDD. All the other components like my MB and CPU are too old now I think.

I can't get my MB type out of my head but it's one from ASrock, a very cheap one. My CPU is an i5 3450 at 3,1 GHz.

Is it by any chance a Z68/Z75/Z77 motherboard? If it is you've an upgrade path to the 3570K or 3770K. Even if it's not you can still upgrade to an i7, but that's not worth doing yet.

Anyway, that's still a good CPU. I wouldn't be looking to change it yet.
 
Sorry for not answering I fell asleep after asking, I ask because I just built the PC a month ago, temps at idle were at 29-33°C and now I'm getting 34-39°C, room temperature has been the same or colder. Prime95 gave me 67°max and now I'm getting 75°C and don't have a clue why. CPU is a 4670k and I'm afraid I'm not gonna have much room for OC'ing since I do emulation.

And it's only been a month, I was thinking of reapplying the thermal paste with the pea method but with Arctic Silver and cleaning dust inside the radiator with those Amazon blowers.



I was afraid of that answer :/
Was the ambient temperature of the room five degrees cooler a month ago?
 
Is it by any chance a Z68/Z75/Z77 motherboard? If it is you've an upgrade path to the 3570K or 3770K. Even if it's not you can still upgrade to an i7, but that's not worth doing yet.

Anyway, that's still a good CPU. I wouldn't be looking to change it yet.

I think it's the Z68. Would I get a big performance upgrade if I would buy a newer CPU?
 
Sorry for not answering I fell asleep after asking, I ask because I just built the PC a month ago, temps at idle were at 29-33°C and now I'm getting 34-39°C, room temperature has been the same or colder. Prime95 gave me 67°max and now I'm getting 75°C and don't have a clue why. CPU is a 4670k and I'm afraid I'm not gonna have much room for OC'ing since I do emulation.

And it's only been a month, I was thinking of reapplying the thermal paste with the pea method but with Arctic Silver and cleaning dust inside the radiator with those Amazon blowers.



I was afraid of that answer :/

Have you manually set the voltages or do you have it set on auto? Because if they're on auto, maybe they've been going higher for some reason?
 
I found a sata power cable, but it has multiple 15pin connectors along, can I connect both HDD and SSD to that one cable, or do I have to use separate ones? No raid setup.
 
I think it's the Z68. Would I get a big performance upgrade if I would buy a newer CPU?

Depends on the game, as with you having a Z68 board you can put a 3570K or a 3770K in and overclock them to 4GHz plus.

I'd be in no great rush to do so mind. I'd just look at the GPU upgrade.
 
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