What model do you have, and what model are you looking at?
"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Seriously? how are they even accomplishing that?
Protagonist Jake
Member
I have no idea why I typed 34 inch instead of 32. Worst of all didnt catch it till now. My eyes sometimes man.
Anyway yeha my mistake, its 32, and just in case it ISNT 1080p, I checked its model no. LC-32B56.
Turns out its 1080i, is that THAT much worst?
Also yeah Im probably just gonna save for a bit. Maybe wait till holiday where I know Ill have a lot more money.
What's the model number for that tv?
Just ordered the RM650W 80 Plus gold, and was thinking about upgrading my GPU in a years time, since we don't know anything about the power draw of unreleased cards, I figured I may have to upgrade to a 750W PSU, if that was the case I'd upgrade to the RM750W 80+ gold
Protagonist Jake
Member
Just checked it myself, its 1080i, is the difference of that and 1080p worth getting a new TV for?
Most of the companies that sell PSUs don't actually make the guts of them. They generally just pick the casing, fan, and then cable interface.
Corsair has done a pretty good job with streamlining everything, and all but the 24 pin cables are totally interchangable between the AX (second gen plats, not first gen golds), RM, and HX PSUs.
This is a pretty big accomplishment, because even the AX x60 Plats are Seasonic, whereas the AX x60is are Flextronics.
Going from something like the CX to the RM though is no good. It's all really complicated.
Corsair has done a pretty good job with streamlining everything, and all but the 24 pin cables are totally interchangable between the AX (second gen plats, not first gen golds), RM, and HX PSUs.
This is a pretty big accomplishment, because even the AX x60 Plats are Seasonic, whereas the AX x60is are Flextronics.
Gotcha, yeah, the RM series is all gravy.
Going from something like the CX to the RM though is no good. It's all really complicated.
Wildstar75
Member
Currently thinking about this as a build:
Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
ASRock Fatal1ty Z97X Killer ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory
Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Superclocked ACX Video Card
Corsair C70 Military Green (Green) ATX Mid Tower Case
SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Bluray Burner TBD
No additional case fans other than the 212 and the 3 case fans that come with the C70
For USB I will power a DK2 with a gamepad or flightstick, and sometimes I will power my USB audio device for music production.
No plan to SLI.
My biggest concern is will the power supply work? Anything else I should be concerned about?
Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
ASRock Fatal1ty Z97X Killer ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory
Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Superclocked ACX Video Card
Corsair C70 Military Green (Green) ATX Mid Tower Case
SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Bluray Burner TBD
No additional case fans other than the 212 and the 3 case fans that come with the C70
For USB I will power a DK2 with a gamepad or flightstick, and sometimes I will power my USB audio device for music production.
No plan to SLI.
My biggest concern is will the power supply work? Anything else I should be concerned about?
Looks solid to me! The PSU will be fine.
Wildstar75
Member
Thanks!
Protagonist Jake
Member
Actually I know someone who will trade me their TV for mine which IS 1080p (checked the model no. and everything) for only 20$. He doesnt really care about resolution.
Yes. 1080i is, for all intents and purposes, the same as 720p.
A next-gen console or a gaming PC aren't going to be fully realized until you get a 1080p display.
So yea man, I would say that should be your top priority going forward.
I'd recommend a different case, unless you are enamored with the green military theme. It's a decent case, albeit overpriced. I'd also advise going with a motherboard that has an Intel NIC on it. There's some funky stuff with the Killer NIC and windows 8.1 that seems to be maybe or maybe not fixed, but still worth avoiding.
The ASUS Z97 Plus, Gigabyte UD3H, or ASRock Z97 Extreme 3/4 are all great for the price.
Have you thought about Powerline Adapters?
1080i is not 1080p. 1080i is basically 1080 downscaled to 720. So that tv very likely also has a native resolution of 1366x768.
You basically need new everything.
Protagonist Jake
Member
Just barely said this above you so screw it, one repost wont hurt.
Actually I know someone who will trade me their TV for mine which IS 1080p (checked the model no. and everything) for only 20$. He doesnt really care about resolution.
So I should be secured on the TV then right?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dktTreQRlaR/p_68932LC7D/LG-32LC7D.html
This post is making me freak out thinking my 600W PSU was the reason my GPU died
ASUS RMA process is kinda a pain with how much stuff they present to you on the support page, but I have an RMA number now, just got to box up the GPU and send it in.
Going to upgrade to Windows 8.1 though when I get the GPU back, might as well. Yay for consoles in the meantime.
Not all PSUs are created equal, but chances are it's not the fault of the PSU.This post is making me freak out thinking my 600W PSU was the reason my GPU died
ASUS RMA process is kinda a pain with how much stuff they present to you on the support page, but I have an RMA number now, just got to box up the GPU and send it in.
Going to upgrade to Windows 8.1 though when I get the GPU back, might as well. Yay for consoles in the meantime.
The TV you just linked is 720p, but I'm not sure if that's the one that you have or your friend has.
It's good to know that if needed I could do it like that, but like you said the world of PSU sounds awfully complicated, and worth the extras hassle of just re-wiring everything
Thanks for confirming this, I've got no intentions of going SLI, and will most likely be sticking with Nvidia.
Beaten!
Is the tv that you linked the one you'd want to get, the highlights state that the resolution is "1366 x 768 pixels"
Protagonist Jake
Member
It accepts the signal, but displays it at 720p.
That is also just a 1366x768 TV. Same as yours. Just because it can accept a 1080p input doesn't mean it can output that.
Where do you live?
Protagonist Jake
Member
Yeah I feel like and old timer fool.
*Sigh* Sorry for probably frustrating the shit outta you guys here.
Any recommended TVs guys?
Its all good man. We can try and catch you up as much as possible.
But where do you live? US? Canada? UK? Europe mainland? Australia?
Protagonist Jake
Member
Ok.
And one more question - how far are you from your TV(viewing distance)?
Yea, wow.
What is it and how much does it cost?
Any pics of the interior? q
Protagonist Jake
Member
About 7 feet
Does it come in black?
It's a Jonsbo Case, and is sold under the "Rosewill Legacy" line in the US at Newegg.
http://www.jonsbo.com/en/index.html
http://www.jonsbo.com/en/index.html
Yep: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147201
Which is exactly how far I am from my TV, that makes it easy.
If you're gonna do this right, I would try and go a bit bigger. Nothing huge, but something that is going to give you a nice view of your gaming action. 39-40" would be a real good size. I literally just went from a 32" to 39" TV yesterday and its what I needed. The 32"(which was also the same resolution as yours) did its job, but would have been largely wasted on high fidelity graphics from 7 feet away.
Here's a good deal on a brand name 39".
Just a suggestion. I wouldn't go with a no-name brand if I could help it. They often have bad image quality problems, motion resolution problems and reliability problems. No need to be too picky about this otherwise.
If you cannot go above 32" for whatever reason, here's something that might do.
Again, just a suggestion. I like the 39" deal, though. Size matters with TV's in my opinion.
Oh my, they have a red version:
And none of the European resellers carry it
Anyway, now to find the best CPU cooler with a height of less than 150mm.
Oh my, they have a red version.
And none of the European resellers carry it
Anyway, now to find the best CPU cooler with a height of less than 150mm.
Let us know what you come up with.
Protagonist Jake
Member
If you're playing on tv it doesn't matter. They will all be worse than a good monitor.
AgentCooper
Member
I just installed a 4TB WD Black and you guys weren't kidding when you said they were loud. The vibrations I'm getting from the drive are making me crazy, and apparently with some of these drives that's normal, and some not.
Anyhoo, I'm looking for suggestions for good and quiet options for large drives. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Anyhoo, I'm looking for suggestions for good and quiet options for large drives. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
wow, i don't know why but this is shocking to me. I would have figured if the cable connected to a modular PSU fit another one it would be compatible. are they not just.. carrying power?
that's unreal. damn.
rosewill makes my wifi adapter... ha
Protagonist Jake
Member
Yeah I know, just curious.
There's some GAFers in Japan that will you ship you one of these.Oh my, they have a red version:
And none of the European resellers carry it
Anyway, now to find the best CPU cooler with a height of less than 150mm.
Also check out the Cubitek Magicube. Then there's the Silverstone FT05 which has a pending release soon too.
Doesn't matter. Blues are fast and quiet. Just never trust any hard drive ever.
Tertullian
Member
I'm almost ready to begin the above. Here's my PC Parts Picker link:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/KdJmNG
Can someone let me know if this looks good?
Thanks for the help, everyone!
Words to live by.
Basically this.^
I mean, there are some TV's with respectable input lag figures, but you're talking higher end(and thus price bracket) stuff.
Working on a budget, I think your main priority is to have a not-crappy 1080p set at the moment. Luxuries like low input lag, SmartTV functionality, full array LED backlighting, 3D, and whatnot will probably have to be overlooked. But that's ok. You don't need to have top of the line stuff to have a good gaming setup.
AgentCooper
Member
I hear you. I have two 1TB Blue drives already, but they don't make any sizes larger than 1TB for Blues for what I could tell.
Not bad (I've looked at Abee before), but neither of those excites me nearly as much as the UMX2. It's so clean. I think I'll get the silver version. Just read a German review and other than the CPU cooler height issue it seems to be very functional internally as well.
I'd consider swapping the PSU for something else, but with how often those get discounted, I wouldn't really suggest anything until the day you purchase. Most likely something like the Corsair RM650, EVGA G2 650, Seasonic G Series 650, or even the CM V650.
750W PSUs are in a terrible spot, IMO, because they're definitely far too much for any single GPU setup, and generally not enough for two top of the line GPUs.
I'd also swap the case with the standard Fractal Define R4. To give you an idea of the amount of space you have in one, here's my old one with a giant 7970 DCuII in it:
If by chance you can buy something today, I'd highly suggest taking advantage of the MX100 1TB deal on Newegg. It is $390 with promo code EXLPBWG222.
The only other thing to consider, is that X99/Haswell-E is supposed to be dropping later this month. Newest leaks say August 29th. You'll likely be able to get a 6 Core 5820K for $350-400, plus DDR4. There's few instances when someone would generally benefit that much more for a gaming rig going to the enthusiast platform, but with such a large budget, it's something that I think you should seriously think about.
How's the cooling on it? Seems like airflow would be at a premium with a design like that. Nothing some high pressure fans couldn't overcome, I'm sure.
*edit*
Oh, I just realized where the fans are. Brilliant design. All that nice cool air straight at the GPU, where it most matters.
CloudyTuba
Member
That's surprisingly similar to the build I just completed. I went with the Z97-A and a smaller Crucial SSD for Windows and programs. Corsair power supply and case. Supplied my own video card, BD/DVD drive and supplemental HDD drives though. Put the thing together in 3 hours, my first full build. Running like a dream.
Runs hotter than I expected with the air 212 but I've been told it's normal for this CPU (~30c idle 70c burntest). Didn't stop me from redoing the thermal paste three additional times to make sure I was getting the best results I could. I'd be interested in knowing your idle/load temps when you've finished.
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