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[paskowitz]

I'd like some advice on this too.

Oh, and do receiving devices have to have some new hardware to be AC-compatible?



I have that exact same wireless card, and it get's absolutely terrible reception from my router. Then again I'm probably farther away from my router than most people are to theirs.

How to build a PC:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIF43-0mDk4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zAdwedmj1M

I used this one a while ago:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_56kyib-Ls

Hope that helps.

 

[afternoon delight]

Sweet.
You don't need 16GB RAM, though.

Thank you!

 

[SugarDave]

Everything's here aside from the 970 now, really hope it arrives before next Friday. Hurry the eff up, Amazon!

 

[j0hnny_385]

Thank you!

IMHO, unless you're into heavy video/photo editing, 16GB isn't necessary.
8GB for gaming is just fine. For now.
RAM isn't cheap as it used to be anyway. :/

 

[appaws]

Time to face it... I ain't got a clue how to put all this together.

only the 970 and the h240x left to arrive.
Im like a kid with a new toy

Thank you my fellow Gaffers.

I'll report once I get it up and running.

Oh shit son, I had a friend help me with setting mine up. Do you know of any people who could help you put yours together?

Youtube videos are your friend. I believe there are some linked in the OP. Techreport has some too. Take your time and enjoy it. It's very fun.

Personally I'd never touch an ASrock mobo even if it had a good review since being burnt the first time...

I was burned by the Z77 voltage reporting fiasco....and have not gone back since....

I will say though that I follow this shit closely and have not heard of them having any serious problems since. They do offer great value.

I think we have reached a time of stasis with motherboards where they are all the same in performance and we are really only making buying choices on extra features and looks.

Welp, a friend of mine told me how much he saved buying parts on Black Friday so it looks like I'm finally purchasing my rig. I've watched others and customized part orders but this is my first dedicated build- I'm excited to learn such a valuable skill.

Priorities
- Play games like The Witcher 3 and Alien Isolation with good settings.
- Emulate the PS2/GC era with ease.
- Introduce me to 1080 era gaming (still stuck in 720 land, finally ready to see next gen)
- No need to overclock, I'm easily amused.

Not that big of a deviation from the recommended spreadsheet- which is gold.

Intel i5-4690 3.5GHz
16GB RAM (2x8GB)
GTX 970 4GB
512GB SSD
Windows 8.1

Sound okay fellow citizens? You people are wonderful, I've been lurking this thread a long time.

I think you should buy a 4690k and a Z97 motherboard. I know you say no overclocking, but why close off the possibility of taking advantage of free performance, either now or later when your PC starts to show its age.

 

[afternoon delight]

IMHO, unless you're into heavy video/photo editing, 16GB isn't necessary.
8GB for gaming is just fine. For now.
RAM isn't cheap as it used to be anyway. :/

Well I've been editing video on 4GB for almost five years now and I've never been too bothered by "render time" benchmarks, though honestly, it is noticeable working with certain materials.

I also think it has something to do with cough cough Adobe's bullshit memory usage cough cough.

I think you should buy a 4690k and a Z97 motherboard. I know you say no overclocking, but why close off the possibility of taking advantage of free performance, either now or later when your PC starts to show its age.

Honestly, if I can have it last a year past this gen's duration I'll be more than happy. I'm still playing and beating games on 1280x720, the ultra effects or special PhysX settings of the future have been and will not be a want for me.

 

[Vulcano's assistant]

Well I've been editing video on 4GB for almost five years now and I've never been too bothered by "render time" benchmarks, though honestly, it is noticeable working with certain materials.

I also think it has something to do with cough cough Adobe's bullshit memory usuage cough cough.

Get the 16Gb then imo. Now you can have both premiere and after effects open each using 6Gb. it feels nice to not have to think about whether you have enough memory.

 

[afternoon delight]

Get the 16Gb then imo. Now you can have both premiere and after effects open each using 6Gb. it feels nice to not have to think about whether you have enough memory.

I edit video about once or twice a year, it is not even close to a primary use haha

Thank you again all for so much feedback, I wish their was a tip jar or something for its continued upkeep.

 

[vocab]

Guess i'm waiting till black friday to buy some new stuff.

 

[paskowitz]

Youtube videos are your friend. I believe there are some linked in the OP. Techreport has some too. Take your time and enjoy it. It's very fun.



I was burned by the Z77 voltage reporting fiasco....and have not gone back since....

I will say though that I follow this shit closely and have not heard of them having any serious problems since. They do offer great value.

I think we have reached a time of stasis with motherboards where they are all the same in performance and we are really only making buying choices on extra features and looks.



I think you should buy a 4690k and a Z97 motherboard. I know you say no overclocking, but why close off the possibility of taking advantage of free performance, either now or later when your PC starts to show its age.

Besides not like ASRock's Mobo software and the poop brown board color, I am quite happy with my Z87 Extreme 4. I also got it for like $80 at Microcenter, so that helped.

 

[knitoe]

I already have it at negative 0.015v offset. If I put it lower it flashes red on BIOS (prior selecting it). If I lower the offset by more than negative 0.005 on 4.6 or higher, it doesn't boot to windows or it freezes right away or it BSODs. Maybe there are some other settings I can mess with?

If I leave it as it is though for the 4.5GHZ setting is that okay?

What MB do you have? Certain settings add a % to the core voltage, like Load Line Calibration (LLC). By using a lower LLC setting = less core voltage, you can use a higher offset number that doesn't make your bios flash red.

I am surprise you can't hit 4.5GHz with 1.35V or less with a 2500K. My old 2600K@4.5GHz only requires 1.27V.

 

[appaws]

Honestly, if I can have it last a year past this gen's duration I'll be more than happy. I'm still playing and beating games on 1280x720, the ultra effects or special PhysX settings of the future have been and will not be a want for me.

Trust me, overclocking is so easy these days...there is NO reason for you to not want to do it. You can slap a $30 CPU cooler on there, change a few settings in the bios...and boom....a big performance boost. I know a lot of people are scared of it because they have some image from 10 years ago of the crazy lengths people went to to OC. It's not like that anymore....

Plus, if you mean the "generation" based on the life cycle of the consoles...? Then that is a loooong time in PC gaming performance.

Besides not like ASRock's Mobo software and the poop brown board color, I am quite happy with my Z87 Extreme 4. I also got it for like $80 at Microcenter, so that helped.

LOL. Yes, the poopy brown PCB is quite heinous. However, I will say that I am getting so sick of black and red these days that it is starting to look better to me. I wish mobo makers could offer a whole line of colors on the same boards.

The new black and white mobo from MSI certainly catches the eye.....

 

[Vulcano's assistant]

Black and white is the hottest combination right now. So long black and red.

 

[LilJoka]

I already have it at negative 0.015v offset. If I put it lower it flashes red on BIOS (prior selecting it). If I lower the offset by more than negative 0.005 on 4.6 or higher, it doesn't boot to windows or it freezes right away or it BSODs. Maybe there are some other settings I can mess with?

If I leave it as it is though for the 4.5GHZ setting is that okay?

Ok first listen to yourself - How can a greater negative offset be dangerous? It goes red because the offset sign is not relevant to the the offset number. There are 2 options Offset +/- and another Offset value. The Value doesnt know the state of the offset +/- setting, so will go red even if you are using a negative offset. So keep giving a bigger negative offset at your other speeds to see what is the lowest VCore required. So far all we know is the minimum Vcore for 4.6Ghz since that is the only one which fails to boot with a lower Vcore (higher negative offset).

And no, it isnt OK just to leave it at 4.5Ghz with current settings. You havent even optimized the Vcore let alone any other voltages, you are just starting the journey.

 

[zero shift]

Ok first listen to yourself - How can a greater negative offset be dangerous? It goes red because the offset sign is not relevant to the the offset number. There are 2 options Offset +/- and another Offset value. The Value doesnt know the state of the offset +/- setting, so will go red even if you are using a negative offset. So keep giving a bigger negative offset at your other speeds to see what is the lowest VCore required. So far all we know is the minimum Vcore for 4.6Ghz since that is the only one which fails to boot with a lower Vcore (higher negative offset).

And no, it isnt OK just to leave it at 4.5Ghz with current settings. You havent even optimized the Vcore let alone any other voltages, you are just starting the journey.

When I get off of work I'm going to take pictures of my Bios so you people can help me.

 

[rabhw]

Question Regarding The Vanishing of Ethan Carter

Did anyone else have severe performance issues running SLI + AA?

I have 2x980's, and if I turn on any sort of AA, the performance completely tanks - ONLY when I look up at the trees, it's bizarre.

The performance is fine (120+fps) and then I look up at the trees and the performance goes to shit. If I turn off AA but keep SLI, performance is fine. If I disable SLI, I can run with AA, and the performance is at least consistent, regardless of where I look.

I've only found one thread with the same issue, and there isn't really a solution there.

I took some video demonstrating the issue.

 

[sixghost]

Hey guys, do you think it's about time to get a new GPU if I've got a 7870? I mostly just play Dota, but the Evolve alpha sold me on that game. The performance of the alpha has got me a little spooked though, even on medium it's not running at 60.

 

[kharma45]

I'd not base buying a new card off the performance of a game that's not even made it to beta status yet.

 

[DontBlink]

I'd like some help with picking out RAM for my future build. I have a i7-4790K and ASRock Z97 Extreme6, with MSI or ASUS GTX 970 coming later on.

Now, my question is should I get a 1600 or 1866 RAM? Reading the OP I'm assuming 1866 will have some small performance boosts and the difference between PC3 1490 and 1500 is basically non-existent.

I'm going for 2x4GB, so would any of the first three below be a good choice ? Or is there something a little cheaper that can perform just as well?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...EMMark=0,N,1&bop=And&Order=RATING&PageSize=30

 

[Specialmias]

My mouse is now dead...

Poor thing won't turn on anymore. I'm trying to find a VERY sensitive mouse like the sensei that's ambidextrous. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[kennah]

Another Sensei?

 

[garath]

Another Sensei?

I was literally about to post exactly this lol

 

[zeroeffect]

How long does it take to RMA through EVGA? I believe I have hit a point where I need to RMA the 980, and can't decide between Newegg (where I bought it), or just contacting EVGA.

They have advanced RMA programs you can use. You can pay a fee up front and they will hold the deposit and ship you a card while you wait to ship to them. Once they receive your card, inspect it and see no wrong doings, they'll refund you the money. I think they still do this program. It only took me a couple days to get a GPU replacement from them in the past. That's why I refuse to use any other company. 980 would obviously be a lot different since it's in such ridiculous demand.

 

[Specialmias]

I was literally about to post exactly this lol

lol tossed that idea around. The razer oruoboros is a close second but it looks cheaper and far more expensive than one. Maybe I'll go for rubberized black this time.

 

[kennah]

I reallllly want a Sensei, but can't justify it since I already have a spawn

 

[Specialmias]

I reallllly want a Sensei, but can't justify it since I already have a spawn

It's a fantastic mouse with an unparrlaleld comfort. It also has the highest possible sensitivity and accuracy of any mouse I've ever owned. The drivers are a massive pile of shit though. They often crash, they sometimes can brick the mouse during the flash process and although not steelseries fault they conflict pretty badly with razer synapse.
*edit also a minor thing but the cable strips its outer cloth "braiding" fairly easily to expose the naked plastic sheath covering the cable underneath.

 

[Grums]

Upgraded to Windows 8.1 on the new PC, but I cant get the wireless to work now. Tried two wireless network adapters but cant install the drivers.

Can anyone recommend a wireless network adapter that will work with Windows 8.1?

Thanks.

 

[Boss Man]

How long does it take to RMA through EVGA? I believe I have hit a point where I need to RMA the 980, and can't decide between Newegg (where I bought it), or just contacting EVGA.

I just contacted EVGA today and they're sending me a new 970 that comes with pre-paid shipping to send them my old one. Everyone says their CS is top notch and I can't argue.

 

[axb2013]

thanks

i ended up getting a 290 on newegg for $250. w/e

Cool that's a good price for it. If you want to sweeten the deal, you can try unlocking it into the 290X. This guy bought 4 290's and all of them unlocked into X's: http://www.overclock.net/t/1443242/the-r9-290-290x-unlock-thread/1500

 

[Celcius]

Lately I've been having an issue with getting page redirects while surfing the web. I don't see anything suspicious in my program files folders, in the registry, or processes running in the background. I'm using Chrome and have also checked for extension or add-ons / plug-ins but everything looks normal to me. Avast! and another antivirus program didn't seem to see anything. Is re-installing windows my only option to get rid of it?

 

[DontBlink]

Lately I've been having an issue with getting page redirects while surfing the web. I don't see anything suspicious in my program files folders, in the registry, or processes running in the background. I'm using Chrome and have also checked for extension or add-ons / plug-ins but everything looks normal to me. Avast! and another antivirus program didn't seem to see anything. Is re-installing windows my only option to get rid of it?

Redirects are usually caused by scripts running on the site/browser. Did you try disabling all extensions? Does it happen on any particular page or multiple?

 

[Bunta]

Well, my video card just died. I'm thinking about picking up this: http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Computer-Corp-290-GAMING/dp/B00HPS4AFG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1415066588&sr=1-1&keywords=r9+290

Any thoughts?

edit: Nvm, bought.

 

[Celcius]

Redirects are usually caused by scripts running on the site/browser. Did you try disabling all extensions? Does it happen on any particular page or multiple?

Multiple types of pages, I'll try disabling extensions.

 

[garath]

It's a fantastic mouse with an unparrlaleld comfort. It also has the highest possible sensitivity and accuracy of any mouse I've ever owned. The drivers are a massive pile of shit though. They often crash, they sometimes can brick the mouse during the flash process and although not steelseries fault they conflict pretty badly with razer synapse.
*edit also a minor thing but the cable strips its outer cloth "braiding" fairly easily to expose the naked plastic sheath covering the cable underneath.

I have a rubberized black sensei raw. I love it. Super comfortable for my fingertip grip, great sensitivity, good clicking but man you are right about the software. It's utter garbage. When I first got it I had a bitch of a time getting it installed. It kept hard crashing and locking up my PC. Eventually did a firmware update with the stand alone tool to get it to work. In the end I use the engine but it crashes if I so much as look at it sideways.

Great hardware, shit software. Still, I wouldn't trade it. I want to try a steel series rival next.

 

[xBladeM6x]

I just contacted EVGA today and they're sending me a new 970 that comes with pre-paid shipping to send them my old one. Everyone says their CS is top notch and I can't argue.

I'm assuming you called them up (instead of sending a support ticket thingy)? Also, this is really reassuring to know their CS is so good.

 

[Damerman]

Hey gaffers, I'm trying to add an internal SSD via sata connection to install games and other stuff, do i have to set it up in raid 0 to have normal performance?

It's mostly because i hear Raid 0 works best when you have identical drives, and the new drive i'm buying could not be more different. my old drive is an OCZ and the new one is the Samsung 850 Pro.

 

[Boss Man]

I'm assuming you called them up (instead of sending a support ticket thingy)? Also, this is really reassuring to know their CS is so good.

Yeah I called them, was a pretty painless process.

Looking at the RMA thing, I get the impression that I might have to pay shipping to them. Pretty sure he said otherwise though, we'll see.

 

[jordn613]

Awesome, thanks! I just ran 3DMark Fire Strike for the first time and here are my results:
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/4585546

9514 with NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970(1x) and Intel Core i5-3450 Processor
Graphics Score 12643
Physics Score 6207
Combined Score 4626

Core clock1,316 MHz
Memory bus clock1,830 MHz

Over the weekend my MSI 970s Unigine Heaven benchmarks were between 52 and 62fps and my scores were rising to the 1400s and even 1500s. Now I can't get past 53/54fps and a score of about 1360, pushing the card as much or farther using Afterburner the same way I did this weekend.

The only change I've made is pushing the voltage up from stock about 10-15mV. Not sure why that would be limiting rather than helping the benchmarks though.

Any ideas?

 

[Lunar15]

Sorry to be that guy, but just reposting sice my old post hit the bottom of a page.

Ok, just about satisfied on my build. I'm upgrading from an older computer so some stuff, like my cooler (H60), my power supply (750W), and my storage are all fine. I went AMD last time, but now I'd like to hop on over to an i5. Thought about an i7, but the gains aren't there to justify the price. (for what I aim to do with it, at least)

• CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core $229.97
• Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 $124.98
• Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 $138.61
• Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX $349.99

On the fence about getting a new case. Currently I have the Antec Twelve Hundred, but I don't really like all the work you have to do to get components in and out, it's kind of old at this point, and it's quite a loud case compared to more modern ones. I *really* like the Corsiar Air 540, but the cube design doesn't fit with how my room is setup. I have also been looking at the Phanteks Enthoo Pro, which has stellar reviews, but I'm not sure if I even need a new case at this point. Smaller form factor would be nice, but I don't really know the first thing about that kind of stuff.

So, what say you GAF? Despite having built a computer before, I'm still pretty ignorant about most of this stuff. Any recommendations on different memory or motherboard? I'm all ears!

Also, will the cooler I already have (Corsair H60) still hold up with new new build? Or should I look into investing into something bigger/newer.

 

[Brofist]

I'm looking for a new case. Anyone using a NZXT H440, and have impressions? I love the look of it, and from what I've heard it's a quiet case.

 

[zero shift]

So I think I found the main culprit, load line calibration. I disabled it and now my CPU Voltage is so much lower that I find myself adding offset voltage. 0.015 extra to be exact in order to get a stable 4.5GHZ clock (anything less and it crashed).

My new results after five minutes in Prime95 (I would test longer but I have to go to bed).


4.5GHZ
.96 - 1.312V (1.320V Peak)*flashed 1.328v twice, was 1.320v for the first minute of the test
62C 69C 70C 65C

I wouldn't be surprised if I upped the offset voltage a little more and get 4.6GHZ, but that is for tomorrow.

Anywhere here are pictures from my Bios so you guys can give me advice on my current settings:

(What's "12V" and why is it so high? Is that bad?)

 

[Ianan]

Gaf I need your help!
I've been scouring the far reaches of the internet all morning to try find information on this but everything I find is a bit too vague.
I'm hoping someone here has a similar set-up to myself.

I'm currently running my system in a Corsair 600T Graphite with a Sabertooth Z77 Mobo. I want to get a new CPU Cooler and I'm really set on the Corsair H105 but I'm just not sure if its going to fit. Does anyone have any idea if I can squeeze this in? Some places say yes but I'm a bit concerned by the size of the Z77 heat sink near the top of the case where the H105 radiator would mount.

EDIT: Nevermind, I think I'm just going with the Corsair H75 now after checking reviews, at least I know it will fit.

 

[Bumhat]

GAF... I did it! I ordered the parts you suggested! I felt like I was going to be sick after dropping over £1100 in one go but hoo boy, I have a feeling it'll be worth it. The RAM has already arrived in the post:

I am ridiculously excited about putting this beast together. More to come soon!

 

[Bumhat]

Sorry for the double post, but I've just realised I have spectacularly failed to buy myself a disc drive even though I've ordered the DVD version of Windows 8 - whoops! I've had a browse through the highest-rated optical drives on PC Part Picker and have found this remarkably cheap one:

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-optical-drive-sh224dbrsbs

Quick question - has anyone used/bought this drive? The reviews are very good given it costs a measly £11. I would cough up a bit more money for a bluray drive but I've got a separate player and it's extremely unlikely I'll be burning media to bluray discs anytime soon.

 

[LilJoka]

So I think I found the main culprit, load line calibration. I disabled it and now my CPU Voltage is so much lower that I find myself adding offset voltage. 0.015 extra to be exact in order to get a stable 4.5GHZ clock (anything less and it crashed).

My new results after five minutes in Prime95 (I would test longer but I have to go to bed).


4.5GHZ
.96 - 1.312V (1.320V Peak)*flashed 1.328v twice, was 1.320v for the first minute of the test
62C 69C 70C 65C

I wouldn't be surprised if I upped the offset voltage a little more and get 4.6GHZ, but that is for tomorrow.

Anywhere here are pictures from my Bios so you guys can give me advice on my current settings:

Now you are getting there. I use LLC set to medium usually, that gives a reasonable compensation when there is a high burst load - And manage offset to compensate for that. What you should do is work out the minimum 4.5Ghz vcore now, then see the minimum 4.6Ghz Vcore. If it scales badly, stick to 4.5Ghz, if it scales good, try for 4.7Ghz, repeat. Then settle for the speed that didnt hit a brick wall in terms of voltage and had reasonable load temps.

I wont go into all the details (unless you want to know more), but LLC wasnt your problem at all. Although higher LLC will mean higher voltage at the same offset, you can just use a lower offset like i had suggested, however that will severely reduce the Idle stability as the offset is applied to all the VIDs at each multiplier. When using a fixed Vcore its ideal to use an LLC that provides some compensation, ideally so the idle vcore is just above the load vcore, usually that is the medium setting for Asus.

 

[LilJoka]

Sorry for the double post, but I've just realised I have spectacularly failed to buy myself a disc drive even though I've ordered the DVD version of Windows 8 - whoops! I've had a browse through the highest-rated optical drives on PC Part Picker and have found this remarkably cheap one:

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-optical-drive-sh224dbrsbs

Quick question - has anyone used/bought this drive? The reviews are very good given it costs a measly £11. I would cough up a bit more money for a bluray drive but I've got a separate player and it's extremely unlikely I'll be burning media to bluray discs anytime soon.

You know you can just download the ISO from Microsoft legally and use their USB Installer tool to create a Windows USB Installation media. That means there is no need for a DVD Drive. All you need is the serial number. If the serial was for Win 8 then you need Win 8 ISO, if it was Win 8.1 then you need Win 8.1 ISO.

 

[Bumhat]

You know you can just download the ISO from Microsoft legally and use their USB Installer tool to create a Windows USB Installation media. That means there is no need for a DVD Drive. All you need is the serial number. If the serial was for Win 8 then you need Win 8 ISO, if it was Win 8.1 then you need Win 8.1 ISO.

That's good advice, thanks! I'll probably buy the drive anyway because I will most likely be burning DVDs, but it's good to know about the ISO route.

Another question for you (sorry) - what cables will I need to connect an optical drive to the motherboard? The drive I'm looking at doesn't come with anything and it'd be a shame to start building only to realise I can't actually connect it. It's a Micro ATX board, and the drive is just a standard SATA one. I'm fully aware I am asking some really, really dumb questions here, but this is the first time I've put a PC together!

 

[LilJoka]

That's good advice, thanks! I'll probably buy the drive anyway because I will most likely be burning DVDs, but it's good to know about the ISO route.

Another question for you (sorry) - what cables will I need to connect an optical drive to the motherboard? The drive I'm looking at doesn't come with anything and it'd be a shame to start building only to realise I can't actually connect it. It's a Micro ATX board, and the drive is just a standard SATA one. I'm fully aware I am asking some really, really dumb questions here, but this is the first time I've put a PC together!

The motherboard you bought should come with a few SATA cables, that connects the DVD to the Board just like your Hard Disks, and similarly it uses SATA Power from the PSU to power the DVD Drive.

DVD Drive you picked is fine btw.

Also i asked these questions at my first build too. Once you get it built, youll think it was way easier than you imagined lol.

 

[Bumhat]

The motherboard you bought should come with a few SATA cables, that connects the DVD to the Board just like your Hard Disks, and similarly it uses SATA Power from the PSU to power the DVD Drive.

DVD Drive you picked is fine btw.

Also i asked these questions at my first build too. Once you get it built, youll think it was way easier than you imagined lol.

That's great, thanks - the cables only cost a couple of quid, so once I've received all the parts I'll see if I need any extra ones. Also, I'm glad to hear I'm not alone in fretting about absolutely everything! I think I have this irrational fear that I'm going to connect all of these expensive components and then my computer will catch fire and explode. This is admittedly unlikely, but you never know!

 

[Bananajama]

Is it just me or has DDR3 bumped up in price the last couple of weeks?