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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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this is why I ask these questions lol

modified list: http://i.imgur.com/tPK1vVi.png

You got a laptop 2.5" HDD there. Get the WD Blue 7200rpm 3.5" disk.

That PSU is very old (but capable), do they not have any other seasonic's? Preferably the new G Series.

Yup, get this one. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339&cm_re=WD_blue-_-22-236-339-_-Product

Those RAM sticks are laptop memory.

Good catch, I was on the phone so didn't see that.
 

Xiraiya

Member
Looking around at Windows 7 Pro in Aus, seems like the cheapest I can find it for is $165, I know OEM is suppose to be a one machine thing, but if I'm just planning to install it on a new PC I'm building, it's not going to matter really?
 

DontBlink

Member
Bumping this to hopefully get an answer.
I'd like some help with picking out RAM for my future build. I have a i7-4790K and ASRock Z97 Extreme6, with MSI or ASUS GTX 970 coming later on.

Now, my question is should I get a 1600 or 1866 RAM? Reading the OP I'm assuming 1866 will have some small performance boosts and the difference between PC3 1490 and 1500 is basically non-existent.

I'm going for 2x4GB, so would any of the first three below be a good choice ? Or is there something a little cheaper that can perform just as well?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...EMMark=0,N,1&bop=And&Order=RATING&PageSize=30
 

appaws

Banned
Bumping this to hopefully get an answer.

I'm not a super RAM expert....but I'll try to tell you some stuff.

I think the differences between the speeds, especially between very close numbers like 1600 and 1866 are very minimal for the average user. There are people who are way into overclocking things to the hilt....trying to squeeze out every digit of increase in some benchmark or other. I wouldn't worry about it for gaming.

Stick to the main brands that you have heard of and you will be fine. G. Skill is very good. Get stuff without the big, stupid heatsinks on it. They do not do much of anything and they can create problems when you are trying to attach a cooler to your motherboard.

That Ares stuff you have in there is what I personally have used recently, and it is good.

Edit: beaten by haz....!
 

phinious

Member
Nope. I have a 2500k at 4.2Ghz and I'm running just fine with my 970. When I get around to it, I'll get it up to 4.4. After that the returns are diminishing pretty quickly.

I just oc'd my pc to 4.0 with stock cooling and it went to 93 deg Celsius in bios.

I guess you need like water cooling to get 4.5
 
ow yeah lets do this :D

B1ns6snCQAEfXqH.jpg

That case.
 

Kvik

Member
I think the differences between the speeds, especially between very close numbers like 1600 and 1866 are very minimal for the average user. There are people who are way into overclocking things to the hilt....trying to squeeze out every digit of increase in some benchmark or other. I wouldn't worry about it for gaming.

As someone who overclock their RAM, I will say this though: clock speed indeed didn't matter much, but it is preferable to get kits that has tight timings, rather than high clock speed, since ultimately this would matter in the real world application, especially when you're multitasking a lot in your computing. You will see the benefit if you're running a 24/7 system and Windows start swapping pagefiles in and out. In DDR3, you should try to get kits with 8-8-8-24 1T, for example.
 
Aaaaaaand nothing. No power. Zip. Zilch. Not a blink.

Edit:
I'm dumb. The power switch on my new PSU flips the opposite way from my current. I am dumb as shit.
 

Addnan

Member
Why have I basically never heard of wireless mechanical keyboards? Can I at least get one with a 12ft (4m) cable?
Many have replaceable cables so you can just buy a long USB cable eg the Cooler Master ones have cables you can change or just a USB extender.
 

DontBlink

Member
Any 1.5V 1866 sticks like it says

Low profile is better so you wont have heatsink clearance issues

I'm not a super RAM expert....but I'll try to tell you some stuff.

I think the differences between the speeds, especially between very close numbers like 1600 and 1866 are very minimal for the average user. There are people who are way into overclocking things to the hilt....trying to squeeze out every digit of increase in some benchmark or other. I wouldn't worry about it for gaming.

Stick to the main brands that you have heard of and you will be fine. G. Skill is very good. Get stuff without the big, stupid heatsinks on it. They do not do much of anything and they can create problems when you are trying to attach a cooler to your motherboard.

That Ares stuff you have in there is what I personally have used recently, and it is good.

Edit: beaten by haz....!

Just to expand 1.5v CAS 9 1600 or CAS 10 1866, whichever is cheaper.

As someone who overclock their RAM, I will say this though: clock speed indeed didn't matter much, but it is preferable to get kits that has tight timings, rather than high clock speed, since ultimately this would matter in the real world application, especially when you're multitasking a lot in your computing. You will see the benefit if you're running a 24/7 system and Windows start swapping pagefiles in and out. In DDR3, you should try to get kits with 8-8-8-24 1T, for example.

Thanks for all the insight.

About timings and CAS, would a 1600 8-8-8 CAS 8 be a better option than 1866 9-10-9-28 CAS 9? Or would the difference be minimal in everyday use?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...548&cm_re=g.skill_ares-_-20-231-548-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...550&cm_re=g.skill_ares-_-20-231-550-_-Product
 

xBladeM6x

Member
This is probably a dumb question, but is the 4790k, or 5820k better? (The reason I'm asking, is that I saw some reviews saying that the 5820k is a bit slower, but much better for stability when having multiple programs in the background running while gaming)
 
Quick question y'all. My 2nd drive (which has a lot of my backed up files, which are also backed up on another drive, too) isn't showing up in Win8.1

was previously using Win7 and that is my storage for things like my music, etc.

It's showing at Dynamic: Foreign in Disk Management.

Is there a safe way to convert to a basic disk without losing data or should I just buy an enclosure and roll off with the data to my other Win7 machine and import a different way?

Thanks!

Edit: Fixed.
 

Stat!

Member
Monitor talk:

I need one for my ps4/PC. Im using a monitor from 2007 that is using HDMI to DVI for my Ps4 and DVI For my PC. Im in the $200 to $300 Canadian price range.

I love the BenQ XL2411z but I need 2 hdmi ports. I don't want to use a switcher since a lot are fairly unreliable. I don't want to unplug the damn thing every day.

So I'm trying to find comprables.

How do the BenQ rel2455hm compare? Any other options for needing 2HDMI? I want to plug in a Ps4/Pc (and the occasional 360 via VGA).

Should I just bite the bullet and get this instead? http://www.ncix.com/detail/benq-xl2420z-24in-led-144hz-06-94227-1383.htm which is over my price range but in the end, over 5-6 years, worth it?
 

Kvik

Member
Thanks for all the insight.

About timings and CAS, would a 1600 8-8-8 CAS 8 be a better option than 1866 9-10-9-28 CAS 9? Or would the difference be minimal in everyday use?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...548&cm_re=g.skill_ares-_-20-231-548-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...550&cm_re=g.skill_ares-_-20-231-550-_-Product

Unfortunately not all application will benefit from either higher clock or lower latency; still, I'd recommend getting the 1600 since the timings are already tight on that kit.

If you planning to OC your RAM, since the 1866 has a XMP profile for higher clock, then this one can be a good investment. Usually GSkill kits has Hynix chips inside, and they are great chips for overclocking, and can actually be overvoltaged if need be (depending on the motherboard as well, of course). The reason is that sometimes you need to add more voltage if you want to hit tighter timings. Some 1866 modules can go for 8-9-8-28 at 1.65v, for example.

For everyday usage, the differences are not great. You can observe this if you're 7-zipping gigabyte-sized folders, running virtual machines, or compiling your own kernel, for example. With higher clocked kits you will have a slight edge, but for gaming, it's practically negligible.
 

mdsfx

Member
So as I mentioned before I RMA'd my Asus Strix 970 and instead bought a Gigabyte. All I can say is that this card is amazing. It overclocks so much better and stays incredibly cool. So glad I made the switch :)
 

Damerman

Member
is RAID 0 necessary if you adding a new Hard drive to install games or can i just throw it in there Via SATA connection?
 

Vamphuntr

Member
I'm starting to get fed up waiting for my gtx 970. Ordered mid October and still waiting for it. Received all of my other parts a while ago and I'm stuck gpu less while companies seems to have fun supply constraining their cards :( ugh.
 

bro1

Banned
Anybody else having issues with nvidia drivers and displayport? I have an asus 4k monitor and its a crapshoot on the monitor being found during driver upgrades.

Also, is there a closed loop gpu cooler available for gtx780 cards? My audio card and wifi card are inbetween my video cards and the fans are getting super loud.
 

Lunar15

Member
You might want to check out the Intel Xeon series. It pretty much offers the same performance as an i7 at a lower price because it isn't overclockable and doesn't have an integrated graphics unit. If you don't need those 2 things the Xeon E3-1231 v3 is the way to go.

I'm actually surprised I don't see it mentioned more often in american forums.
In Germany it's has basically become the go to CPU around that price range.
You want i7 performance at an i5 price? Take the Xeon E3-1231 v3

I haven't found any english reviews but you can check the benchmarks on this german website
http://www.computerbase.de/2014-05/intel-xeon-e3-1231-v3-nachfolger-1230-test/4/

Huh, I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere. It's not that I don't trust you, I do, but I will definitely do some research on it. Thanks for pointing it out.

Doesn't even show up in Anandtech. Is it newer?
 

DontBlink

Member
Unfortunately not all application will benefit from either higher clock or lower latency; still, I'd recommend getting the 1600 since the timings are already tight on that kit.

If you planning to OC your RAM, since the 1866 has a XMP profile for higher clock, then this one can be a good investment. Usually GSkill kits has Hynix chips inside, and they are great chips for overclocking, and can actually be overvoltaged if need be (depending on the motherboard as well, of course). The reason is that sometimes you need to add more voltage if you want to hit tighter timings. Some 1866 modules can go for 8-9-8-28 at 1.65v, for example.

For everyday usage, the differences are not great. You can observe this if you're 7-zipping gigabyte-sized folders, running virtual machines, or compiling your own kernel, for example. With higher clocked kits you will have a slight edge, but for gaming, it's practically negligible.

Unfortunately not all application will benefit from either higher clock or lower latency; still, I'd recommend getting the 1600 since the timings are already tight on that kit.

If you planning to OC your RAM, since the 1866 has a XMP profile for higher clock, then this one can be a good investment. Usually GSkill kits has Hynix chips inside, and they are great chips for overclocking, and can actually be overvoltaged if need be (depending on the motherboard as well, of course). The reason is that sometimes you need to add more voltage if you want to hit tighter timings. Some 1866 modules can go for 8-9-8-28 at 1.65v, for example.

For everyday usage, the differences are not great. You can observe this if you're 7-zipping gigabyte-sized folders, running virtual machines, or compiling your own kernel, for example. With higher clocked kits you will have a slight edge, but for gaming, it's practically negligible.

In that case I think I'll go with the 1866, since I do plan on running a VM and PS, among other things. Don't plan on overclocking though, but the slight performance boost and lower price make it seem like the better choice.
 

knitoe

Member
Anybody else having issues with nvidia drivers and displayport? I have an asus 4k monitor and its a crapshoot on the monitor being found during driver upgrades.

Also, is there a closed loop gpu cooler available for gtx780 cards? My audio card and wifi card are inbetween my video cards and the fans are getting super loud.
I didn't have any issue updating on my Acer XB280HK Gsync 4K on the displayport.
 

x3sphere

Member
This is probably a dumb question, but is the 4790k, or 5820k better? (The reason I'm asking, is that I saw some reviews saying that the 5820k is a bit slower, but much better for stability when having multiple programs in the background running while gaming)

Max overclock is generally going to be higher on the 4790k I think. Having an extra 200-300 MHz over the 5820k is not going to make a huge difference though. Two extra cores, when they're actually being utilized, will.

I'd recommend the 5820k for long term builds, I think we'll definitely start to see more games scale to 4+ cores in a year or so.
 

orochi91

Member
Question:

I have a chance to purchase an i7-4790k from a friend at a heavily discounted price, since he wants to get rid of it for his new build.

I'm currently running an FX-8350 at 4.8Ghz.

I mostly play on emulators, so how much of an upgrade (if at all) will I see in emulator performance if I decide to go with the i7?

My GPU is a 280x.
 

Dance Inferno

Unconfirmed Member
I'm starting to get fed up waiting for my gtx 970. Ordered mid October and still waiting for it. Received all of my other parts a while ago and I'm stuck gpu less while companies seems to have fun supply constraining their cards :( ugh.

That sucks dude. I ordered all my parts this past Monday and was looking for a GTX 970 but they were out of stock everywhere. I didn't know how long I'd have to wait for the card to come back in stock so I instead decided to pull the trigger on a R9 280 that was on sale for $165. I figured I'd rather get something cheap and decent now and then possibly upgrade it in a few years than wait an undetermined amount of time until the GTX 970s are back in stock.

Hope you get your card soon!
 
Question:

I have a chance to purchase an i7-4790k from a friend at a heavily discounted price, since he wants to get rid of it for his new build.

I'm currently running an FX-8350 at 4.8Ghz.

I mostly play on emulators, so how much of an upgrade (if at all) will I see in emulator performance if I decide to go with the i7?

My GPU is a 280x.

Huge difference*, I would jump on it no question. Keep in mind that you'll need a different motherboard though.

*I think.
 

grkazan12

Member
Really close on pulling the trigger for the Asus 970 Strix, but the thought of 8GB versions down the line worries and I'm not sure if it will run the Witcher 3 at max settings. Also is the MSI better than the Asus 970 or vice versa?

What should I do gaf?
 
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