Im really close to convincing myself to jump to pc gaming, just owned consoles my whole life. Can somebody do me a favour and click this link: http://www.ukgamingcomputers.co.uk/medusa-extreme-pc-p-170.html
And answer a few questions.
1) Is the price reasonable for the specs.
2) How future proof would this pc be
3) If im paying this much for a PC, should i get a moniter also, or just hook it up to my TV.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can take a minute to help me out.
Ehhh, I don't know really.Im really close to convincing myself to jump to pc gaming, just owned consoles my whole life. Can somebody do me a favour and click this link: http://www.ukgamingcomputers.co.uk/medusa-extreme-pc-p-170.html
And answer a few questions.
1) Is the price reasonable for the specs.
Extremely future proof!2) How future proof would this pc be
3) If im paying this much for a PC, should i get a moniter also, or just hook it up to my TV.
I am about to buy a gtx 970. What version should I get?
Looking at gigabyte 4GB OC version, but I am nervous about buying a card pre overclockedThe one that is in stock.
Why? Almost every high end card these days is factory OC'd.Looking at gigabyte 4GB OC version, but I am nervous about buying a card pre overclocked
Why? Almost every high end card these days is factory OC'd.
It's tested by the manufacturer and it just works. Why the worry?![]()
What are you nervous about? Factory overclocking is usually very stable and reliable.Looking at gigabyte 4GB OC version, but I am nervous about buying a card pre overclocked
Hey Gaf,
I've been playing around with my fully built gaming PC for a month now. I've got a 970 and a 4790k. I've been running both at stock settings but I think I'm ready to dive into overclocking.
Sorry to be that guy, but just reposting sice my old post hit the bottom of a page.
Also, will the cooler I already have (Corsair H60) still hold up with new new build? Or should I look into investing into something bigger/newer.
Did you not read the thread title? If you haven't already, OC the 2500K to 4.4-4.6GHz and you will be fine for another few years.Will I be severely bottleneckef using an i5 2500k with a gtx 970 4gb?
Will I be severely bottleneckef using an i5 2500k with a gtx 970 4gb?
Nope. I have a 2500k at 4.2Ghz and I'm running just fine with my 970. When I get around to it, I'll get it up to 4.4. After that the returns are diminishing pretty quickly.
Over the weekend my MSI 970s Unigine Heaven benchmarks were between 52 and 62fps and my scores were rising to the 1400s and even 1500s. Now I can't get past 53/54fps and a score of about 1360, pushing the card as much or farther using Afterburner the same way I did this weekend.
The only change I've made is pushing the voltage up from stock about 10-15mV. Not sure why that would be limiting rather than helping the benchmarks though.
Any ideas?
Now you are getting there. I use LLC set to medium usually, that gives a reasonable compensation when there is a high burst load - And manage offset to compensate for that. What you should do is work out the minimum 4.5Ghz vcore now, then see the minimum 4.6Ghz Vcore. If it scales badly, stick to 4.5Ghz, if it scales good, try for 4.7Ghz, repeat. Then settle for the speed that didnt hit a brick wall in terms of voltage and had reasonable load temps.
I wont go into all the details (unless you want to know more), but LLC wasnt your problem at all. Although higher LLC will mean higher voltage at the same offset, you can just use a lower offset like i had suggested, however that will severely reduce the Idle stability as the offset is applied to all the VIDs at each multiplier. When using a fixed Vcore its ideal to use an LLC that provides some compensation, ideally so the idle vcore is just above the load vcore, usually that is the medium setting for Asus.
So I think I found the main culprit, load line calibration. I disabled it and now my CPU Voltage is so much lower that I find myself adding offset voltage. 0.015 extra to be exact in order to get a stable 4.5GHZ clock (anything less and it crashed).
My new results after five minutes in Prime95 (I would test longer but I have to go to bed).
4.5GHZ
.96 - 1.312V (1.320V Peak)*flashed 1.328v twice, was 1.320v for the first minute of the test
62C 69C 70C 65C
I wouldn't be surprised if I upped the offset voltage a little more and get 4.6GHZ, but that is for tomorrow.
Anywhere here are pictures from my Bios so you guys can give me advice on my current settings:
LLC has the options if enabled, auto, and disabled. This are my only choices with it,
I also can't lower my offset core voltage as my computer will crash.
Should I turn of internal PLL overvoltage? And is 12V level bad? What does that mean?
Honestly, the 100Mhz you would gain going to 4.6Ghz isn't going to be all that meaningful. Unless it requires a very insignificant bump in voltage, I would stick with 4.5, but once you start hitting the out limits of your CPU, the voltage requirements start jumping up rapidly.
Need more info for CPU overclocking advice, i.e does your motherboard have an 'easy overclock' application in the BIOS?, my Asus Hero z97 will overclock my 4690K to 4.5Ghz with a single click in its BIOS, pretty much all modern motherboards do now have some sort of automated overclocking feature.
..but definately overclock your CPU before the GPU.
The 4790k runs at 4.4GHz at stock so you're not gonna see any huge gains from overclocking it, especially not in games. The 970 on the other hand has a ton of headroom for overclocking which will translate directly into better game performance. It's also super easy to do it using Afterburner and you don't need to worry about temps since the aftermarket coolers are way too big for this chip anyway.Hey Gaf,
I've been playing around with my fully built gaming PC for a month now. I've got a 970 and a 4790k. I've been running both at stock settings but I think I'm ready to dive into overclocking.
What are the best guides to follow for both CPU and GPU overclocking? Is it better to do one before the other?
It's this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128714
I'm not sure if it does. I'm not home otherwise I'd check myself.
I have been meaning to get a new case recently and I was wondering if the Fractal Define R4 is really as quiet as people say. I really like the understated and subtle design of it
Can any owners comment on this?
1. It is reasonable for a prebuilt machine. Though you can get it cheaper if you build it yourself but given the fact that you have been a console gamer your whole life you might not be comfortable with that.
2. I think it will last this entire gen.
3. It depends on your preference, a TV is fine if you prefer to lie on your couch. So anything really.
LLC has the options if enabled, auto, and disabled. This are my only choices with it,
I also can't lower my offset core voltage as my computer will crash.
Should I turn of internal PLL overvoltage? And is 12V level bad? What does that mean?
Leave LLC disable.I performed another test for 4.6GHZ and got these results:
4.6GHZ
.96 - 1.336V (1.344V Peak)
64C 70C 72C 66C
However, to get that I had to bump the offset voltage to plus 0.035. Is the offset voltage irrelevant as long as the core voltage is correct?
Ehhh, I don't know really.
I don't know UK prices, but always consider that some form of price mark up is in place since it's a prebuilt machine.
You can check the price of individiual components on PCpartpicker (be sure to pick UK) to compare.
Be sure to check the OP, especially Haz's build sheet.
There's something for every budget.
Extremely future proof!
This whole gen for sure.
What is your preference? If you plan to play strategy games (Starcraft 2, etc.) you're better off with a desk , comfy chair and a monitor. Not saying that playing RTS is impossible on TV, but it ain't practical.
If you want a "console-like" experience, you're in for a treat because PC <-> TV compatibility has never been better (Steam Big Picture mode! Yay!).
I performed another test for 4.6GHZ and got these results:
4.6GHZ
.96 - 1.336V (1.344V Peak)
64C 70C 72C 66C
However, to get that I had to bump the offset voltage to plus 0.035. Is the offset voltage irrelevant as long as the core voltage is correct?
The 4790k runs at 4.4GHz at stock so you're not gonna see any huge gains from overclocking it, especially not in games. The 970 on the other hand has a ton of headroom for overclocking which will translate directly into better game performance. It's also super easy to do it using Afterburner and you don't need to worry about temps since the aftermarket coolers are way too big for this chip anyway.
I'd say start with the GPU and then maybe bump up the CPU a little if you want to.
It's mainly due to the video card. The difference between 970 vs 760 big. If you can get the 970 + Great, you will not notice a difference for gaming.Assuming that I'd be able to take the time to build my own, under Haz's builds in the OP, is it under the "Excellent" build that the hypothethical machine that can "slay just about every game for a while" will run most games at 1080p60fps? How big is the dropoff in performance from that build to the "Great" build?
Leave LLC disable.
Disable PLL too. Only need for OC 4.8 and above. With it enable, your computer will BSOD coming out of sleep.
I notice you have C1,C3 and C6 disable. They should be enable so your cpu speed downclocks while idling.
So I was playing The Evil Within and it BSOD me. I'm not sure if that was the game (it is well known for being poorly optimized) or the CPU but I went to the Bios and added 0.005 to my offset voltage. It now stands at plus 0.050.
Here are my results with ten minutes in Prime95:
4.6GHZ
.96 - 1.344V (1.352V Peak)
65C 72C 73C 68C
I think I will end it here. I don't believe that my CPU temperatures surpassing 80C is good. And a gain of 100 or 200MHZ will likely be trivial.
That said I am still surprised by the performance gains. Blade Symphony went from ~48fps to well surpassing 60fps. It is a buttery-smooth 60fps under vsync.
I had to keep these enabled as I was coming across serious stability issues when they were disabled.
I never put my computer to sleep anyway due to: #1 Having a SSD & #2 The OCZ tech support guy told me not to as it could shorten my SSD's life.
So I was playing The Evil Within and it BSOD me. I'm not sure if that was the game (it is well known for being poorly optimized) or the CPU but I went to the Bios and added 0.005 to my offset voltage. It now stands at plus 0.050.
Here are my results with ten minutes in Prime95:
4.6GHZ
.96 - 1.344V (1.352V Peak)
65C 72C 73C 68C
I think I will end it here. I don't believe that my CPU temperatures surpassing 80C is good. And a gain of 100 or 200MHZ will likely be trivial.
That said I am still surprised by the performance gains. Blade Symphony went from ~48fps to well surpassing 60fps. It is a buttery-smooth 60fps under vsync.
I had to keep these enabled as I was coming across serious stability issues when they were disabled.
I never put my computer to sleep anyway due to: #1 Having a SSD & #2 The OCZ tech support guy told me not to as it could shorten my SSD's life.
EDIT - You weren't kidding about it crashing when it goes into sleep mode. Actually what happens it that I hit a key to wake it up and the computer starts but the screen doesn't... I had unplug the power supply and wait a few minutes to try again and then finally the computer woke up properly with the screen in tact. But again, I NEVER use sleep mode.
Avoid the Green. If you want to save money, get one of those extension HDD (search for what brand is inside), crack them open and put them into your PC. Note, this could void the warranty if you can't put it back together nicely.Need some opinions here.
I'm looking to get a HDD specifically for storage as I just recently got an SSD for the main OS.
I've been looking at both the WD Blue 1TB and WD Green 2TB but not sure which to get.
On the surface the 2TB drive seems really good value as it's double the storage and only abit more expensive but then I hear that the Green drives aren't very reliable.
What would be the best option here? Even if I go for the Blue and decide to get another down the line it's still going to be more expensive that way than one 2TB drive.
It's mainly due to the video card. The difference between 970 vs 760 big. If you can get the 970 + Great, you will not notice a difference for gaming.