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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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appaws

Banned
Yes yes. Like a super console.

You could do this:

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xvGnjX
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xvGnjX/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($133.49 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($81.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($585.68 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $1482.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-09 00:56 EST-0500

Don't want to rain on your parade...but that case you pointed out would be very limiting as far as components. You want a big old 980 in there, something has to give. And that case uses a smaller form power supply as well, which I am not sure you want to do in a system with a 980.

The Bitfenix case I picked here is widely considered easy to build in....supports a 240mm AIO on top for CPU cooling so you can OC the system. And will take that big, long badass GPU you want.
 

paolo11

Member
You could do this:

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xvGnjX
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xvGnjX/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($133.49 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($81.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($585.68 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $1482.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-09 00:56 EST-0500

Don't want to rain on your parade...but that case you pointed out would be very limiting as far as components. You want a big old 980 in there, something has to give. And that case uses a smaller form power supply as well, which I am not sure you want to do in a system with a 980.

The Bitfenix case I picked here is widely considered easy to build in....supports a 240mm AIO on top for CPU cooling so you can OC the system. And will take that big, long badass GPU you want.

Should I go i7 4790k?
 

Hopey

Member
I just finished putting mine together. Upgraded from an i7-930

Here it is

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/p8gQhM

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 Liquid Cooling
Motherboard: Asus SABERTOOTH Z97 MARK 1 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory
Storage: Corsair Force LX Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card
Case: Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
 

paolo11

Member
Is there a case like the syber console case or Tiki Z that can house 980gtx? I love the specs given to me above but I just need a case like Tiki Z or Bolt 2
 

demolitio

Member
Debating whether or not to upgrade my 6970 for Christmas but don't know what to get for $250 or so that would be worth it. Damn Star Citizen making me want to upgrade...
 
Is there a case like the syber console case or Tiki Z that can house 980gtx? I love the specs given to me above but I just need a case like Tiki Z or Bolt 2

Both of those models can house a gtx 980, the PSU is a bigger issue. If you find a case like that (like this http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=503) you have to be very careful at picking parts, and putting it together is not as easy as following manufacturers instructions anymore.

and you'll need one of these:
aw8i.jpg


edit: this is probably what you are looking for: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163252
 

paolo11

Member
Both of those models can house a gtx 980, the PSU is a bigger issue. If you find a case like that (like this http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=503) you have to be very careful at picking parts, and putting it together is not as easy as following manufacturers instructions anymore.

and you'll need one of these:
aw8i.jpg


edit: this is probably what you are looking for: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163252


The last link fits the titan z as well?
 
This is the PSU I got from my friend, will it be OK to power my 970?

jwn7rks.jpg


I'm guessing nobody has heard of the brand before (neither had I), I picked it cause I thought 1000W should be plenty enough, but now looking at those numbers on the 12V rails I'm not so sure.

12V * 17A = 204W... And I read that the 970 draws around 300W at full load, right? So it's a no go?

Is this why people say avoid multi 12V rail PSUs?

I don't understand power supplies.
 
The last link fits the titan z as well?

I don't know, the card looks like it is 2" thick. (Which by the way you are going to go with a reference model for your gpu maybe not, seem like some people over Overclocked.net are doing fine with non-reference models). But If you are going to buy a $1,500 GPU, you may as well wait for a Titan that is Maxwell architecture. I don't even know what power supply you are going to need for the current Kepler model either.

this is a better guide than anything I can offer: http://www.overclock.net/t/1466816/silverstone-raven-rvz01-ml07-ml08-ftz01-owners-club

stolen from a fine user from that site
This is what my build is now.
Case: Raven RVZ01.
CPU Cooler: Noctua Low-Profile Quiet CPU Cooler NH-L9I
Processor: Intel Core i7-4770K Quad-Core Processor. ---------------------- (you are going i7 4790k)
Motherboard: Gigabyte LGA 1150 Intel Z87 Mini ITX GA-Z87N-WIFI. ------------------ (You are going z97, MAYBE a Asrock Z97E-ITX/ac or MSI Z97I Gaming (this one has Wi-Fi))
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866.

HD 1: Crucial MX100 512GB Internal Solid State Drive.
HD 2: Western Digital 500 GB WD Black SATA III 7200 RPM 16 MB Cache OEM Notebook Hard Drive. -------- (you don't need these many drives. get the 256GB MX100 SSD and a 1TB 2.5-inch hard drive) (it doesn't have to be 2.5 inches now that I look at some pictures there)
HD 3: HGST Travelstar 2.5-Inch 1TB 7200RPM SATA 6GB/s.


DVD: Panasonic UJ-8C5.
Video: ZOTAC Geforce GTX 970 4GB. ----------------------------- (You are going GTX 980)
PSU: Silverstone 600 Watt SFX PSU.
 

Addnan

Member
Does my new PC have a ghost. It turns itself on in the middle of the night, have never dealt with something like this. Where do I begin with the troubleshoot. Have just turned off the PSU at night now.
 

vocab

Member
Does my new PC have a ghost. It turns itself on in the middle of the night, have never dealt with something like this. Where do I begin with the troubleshoot. Have just turned off the PSU at night now.

I have had this happen on my old pc from 2004-2009 era. It used to piss me off. I would shut it down, and then it would just turn on randomly.

My guess? some wake on lan bullshit.
 

paolo11

Member
I don't know, the card looks like it is 2" thick. (Which by the way you are going to go with a reference model for your gpu maybe not, seem like some people over Overclocked.net are doing fine with non-reference models). But If you are going to buy a $1,500 GPU, you may as well wait for a Titan that is Maxwell architecture. I don't even know what power supply you are going to need for the current Kepler model either.

this is a better guide than anything I can offer: http://www.overclock.net/t/1466816/silverstone-raven-rvz01-ml07-ml08-ftz01-owners-club

stolen from a fine user from that site

Are both 970 and 980 GPU cards the same size?
 
Are both 970 and 980 GPU cards the same size?

varies when you got into non-reference models. The Gigabyte windforce both 970 and 980 are really long (don't buy that one for the Raven RVZ01). I would look at pictures on that thread (boxes of what people purchased, for instance, to be safe). But yeah, sizes of 970 and 980 should be about the same, except for the 970 zotac that is really small, like 8 inches.
 

LilJoka

Member
This is the PSU I got from my friend, will it be OK to power my 970?

jwn7rks.jpg


I'm guessing nobody has heard of the brand before (neither had I), I picked it cause I thought 1000W should be plenty enough, but now looking at those numbers on the 12V rails I'm not so sure.

12V * 17A = 204W... And I read that the 970 draws around 300W at full load, right? So it's a no go?

Is this why people say avoid multi 12V rail PSUs?

I don't understand power supplies.

No that isn't why we avoid multi rail PSUs, but bad manufacturers do dodgy things with multi rail PSUs more often than with single rail ones.

That PSU is fit for the bin, it has no efficiency certification, not enough amps on 12v rail combined and probably won't even deliver it's rated power output.
 

LilJoka

Member
The last link fits the titan z as well?

Consider the Fractal Node 304 case too.
RVZ01 should fit a Silverstone SFX 600W so that will work too. GPU length has to be less than 330mm.

Does my new PC have a ghost. It turns itself on in the middle of the night, have never dealt with something like this. Where do I begin with the troubleshoot. Have just turned off the PSU at night now.

Windows update default schedule updates at 3am. Check that.
 

XBP

Member
Ok guys, I really need some help with this stuff as this would be my first new rig after 6 years. I'm trying to get the best possible components that'll last me 4-5 years ( minus GPU and RAM which i will upgrade I'm sure). Anyway,

Your Current Specs: N/A

Budget: $2500 , Canada . (preferably close to 2200-2300)

Main Use: 1. Gaming (will be my main gaming machine, so I'll be playing all future and current releases on it). 2. Emulation (PS2) 3. Streaming games 4. General Use

Monitor Resolution: Currently 1080p but plan on downsampling.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
Games: Crysis franchise, Witcher Franchise, Skyrim, Bioshock franchise, Metro Series (pretty much most current releases and future games).

Looking to reuse any parts? Only my current monitor. I dont think I'll need a optical drive (can always get that later) but I do need a keyboard and mouse.

When will you build?: By the end of this month.

Will you be overclocking?: Yes (not something extreme though, maybe 10-15% increase).


Just a small note. I am not great at building PCs and dont have any intention of dealing with DOAs. So i'll be going with NCIX's PC assembly option (not included in budget). Which means that all my parts will have to be from NCIX or at least a majority of core parts. The 'smoky' build in the first post is out of my budget so maybe a little toned down version of that would work?
 

Kezen

Banned
This is the PSU I got from my friend, will it be OK to power my 970?

jwn7rks.jpg


I'm guessing nobody has heard of the brand before (neither had I), I picked it cause I thought 1000W should be plenty enough, but now looking at those numbers on the 12V rails I'm not so sure.

12V * 17A = 204W... And I read that the 970 draws around 300W at full load, right? So it's a no go?

Is this why people say avoid multi 12V rail PSUs?

I don't understand power supplies.

It's shit. Go for some reputable brands : Seasonic, Corsair (which uses Seasonic btw), Cooler Master, Antec, Be Quiet.
650W is enough for a 970.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171093&cm_re=cooler_master_V650-_-17-171-093-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139012&cm_re=corsair_HX650-_-17-139-012-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088&cm_re=seasonic_650-_-17-151-088-_-Product
 

kharma45

Member
This is the PSU I got from my friend, will it be OK to power my 970?

jwn7rks.jpg


I'm guessing nobody has heard of the brand before (neither had I), I picked it cause I thought 1000W should be plenty enough, but now looking at those numbers on the 12V rails I'm not so sure.

12V * 17A = 204W... And I read that the 970 draws around 300W at full load, right? So it's a no go?

Is this why people say avoid multi 12V rail PSUs?

I don't understand power supplies.

It's a terrible unit as others have said. Even as a free unit I'd not use it. Give us a budget for what you'd be able to spend and we'll get you something quality and reliable for your 970.

Don't chance an excellent new GPU on that PSU.
 
No that isn't why we avoid multi rail PSUs, but bad manufacturers do dodgy things with multi rail PSUs more often than with single rail ones.

That PSU is fit for the bin, it has no efficiency certification, not enough amps on 12v rail combined and probably won't even deliver it's rated power output.


It's a terrible unit as others have said. Even as a free unit I'd not use it. Give us a budget for what you'd be able to spend and we'll get you something quality and reliable for your 970.

Don't chance an excellent new GPU on that PSU.

What about either one of these two:

?

Again, I live in the middle east, can't order one online (shipping would make it prohibitively expensive, plus 1-2 week wait). The cheapest good PSU I can find locally (Seasonic) is $170 and I'd really prefer not to spend that money right now.
 

LilJoka

Member
What about either one of these two:


?

Again, I live in the middle east, can't order one online (shipping would make it prohibitively expensive, plus 1-2 week wait). The cheapest good PSU I can find locally (Seasonic) is $170 and I'd really prefer not to spend that money right now.

Even if those PSUs were reputable, they don't supply enough power for your rig.
 
*sigh* I guess I need to buy a new one. Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.

Am I likely to need more than 750W in the next few years, say if I go with SLI or new power hungry cards come in the market? I'd rather fork a bit more now to "future proof" the PSU and not have to go through this again.
 

roytheone

Member
If it's DDR3, sure, buy 4GB and then you can just transfer it over to your new build.

Alright, thanks, will do that.

On a related note, this is what speccy says about my current RAM:

DL2fgX9.jpg


What will the best thing be to do? Add a 2 x 2 GB module, add 2 separate 2 GB modules or add one 4 GB module (is this even possible?).
 
After using the ASUS ROG Swift monitor for a few days, I'm keeping it. I've never played on a 60+Hz monitor before, so seeing 144 fps was awesome. G-sync is fantastic at 45 fps and above, and I notice no stuttering in areas where fps is in the 27-30 fps range (e.g., MMO large city maps).

I was slightly worried about getting this monitor for MMO playing since I read that sub-30 fps ranges would cause the module to hitch. But because I'm no longer tied down to V-sync and a 60 fps cap, I can really let the 780 Ti stretch its legs. In Guild Wars 2 world-versus-world I was used to seeing 15/30 fps because of V-sync. Now I'm seeing 44-45 fps with dozens of players on screen and it's glorious. No more stuttering.

The picture quality is definitely not as good as IPS, though. I was gaming on a 32" S-IPS TV that is over four years old and even I immediately noticed the difference, someone who does no media work whatsoever. Even after adjusting the factory settings which come with brightness/contrast/R/G/B all maxed out I couldn't match the picture quality of my old IPS screen. For a TN panel there is actually less color distortion when viewing from above or from the sides than I anticipated. It's most apparent when viewing from below.

Backlight flickering is a known issue, too. I've only seen it occur during loading screens. Internets is telling me that it's tied to the G-sync module. Overall the tradeoff for smooth gameplay at 1440p, >60 Hz is worth it to me. To me this has been a game-changer.
 

RGM79

Member
Both motherboards were Biostar. The one in the current specs is, I believe, fried just like the first one was.
If the motherboards both died the same way, it's possible the power supply had something to do with it. As a cheaper solution you could try replacing the motherboard and PSU, but I guess a new build wouldn't be a bad idea if you could sell the processor and reuse other parts.
 
I'm going to be building my first PC for video games/art works/ and a little bit of video editing. I was wondering if this would be a good set up for that:
CPU: i7 4770K 4C/8T
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H
Graphics: AMD R9 280X 3GB
SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB
Storage: 2TB HDD
Power Supply: BP550 Plus 550W
Soundcard: Xonar DGX
Case: - CM N400
Optical Driver: SATA DVD Burner 20p

Edit: my budget is around 1,500
 

ricki42

Member
Thanks. Plan on buying this set:
http://www.mycom.nl/componenten/geh...akersclick&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=tweakers

It is 1600 mhz while my old ram is 1333 mhz, but that shouldn't be a problem right? (My motherboard can handle 1600, i already checked that).

From what I understand the most important part is that they both run at the same voltage (1.5V in your case). When you use them together, the motherboard will run the 1600 mhz modules at 1333mhz though, the slowest module determines the speed of all modules.
 

The Llama

Member
I'm going to be building my first PC for video games/art works/ and a little bit of video editing. I was wondering if this would be a good set up for that:
CPU: i7 4770K 4C/8T
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H
Graphics: AMD R9 280X 3GB
SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB
Storage: 2TB HDD
Power Supply: BP550 Plus 550W
Soundcard: Xonar DGX
Case: - CM N400
Optical Driver: SATA DVD Burner 20p

You can probably get a 4790k for the same price. Mobo looks good. I'd try to step it up to an R9 290 (you can get them really cheap right now, like $250 sometimes) or a GTX 970 (depending on your budget). An MX100 SSD might be cheaper than the 840 EVO. I'd try to get a slighter better power supply. You probably won't need a soundcard. Case is personal preference. You can probably drop the optical drive unless you know you'll need it.

Also, whats your budget?
 
You can probably get a 4790k for the same price. Mobo looks good. I'd try to step it up to an R9 290 (you can get them really cheap right now, like $250 sometimes) or a GTX 970 (depending on your budget). An MX100 SSD might be cheaper than the 840 EVO. I'd try to get a slighter better power supply. You probably won't need a soundcard. Case is personal preference. You can probably drop the optical drive unless you know you'll need it.

Also, whats your budget?

Thanks for the info, im down to put around 1,500 dollars Into it.
 

taoofjord

Member
If the motherboards both died the same way, it's possible the power supply had something to do with it. As a cheaper solution you could try replacing the motherboard and PSU, but I guess a new build wouldn't be a bad idea if you could sell the processor and reuse other parts.

Yeah, I'd be nervous to use the PSU again, even though the I've seen people mentioning that there's a problem with the case too. Could you suggest the remaining parts that'd be right for the build that i mentioned in the original post? I definitely want the GTX 970 as well as the i5-4690. Then I can re-use the 256GB Samsung SSD I already purchased. Is my G.Skill ram compatible with whatever motherboard I upgrade to? I'd appreciate some help picking the heat sink and PSU as well. Thanks :)
 

Boss Man

Member
I think like in every case like this things are extremely exaggerated.

FWIW I've got an EVGA 970 FTW and it has no coil whine whatsoever.
Well that's irritating, I have the same card with coil whine. I don't think it's very exaggerated, you're the first person I've heard of who has the card without coil whine.

I would say that EVGA is a good route to go though. I'm getting a new one next week and it's coming with the shipping label for my old one. Didn't cost me anything.
 

paolo11

Member
Ok. Would this work for my Steam Machine aka plug this on TV instead of monitor to play 1080p max out settings?

http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/partlist/

$1499.85

Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor

Cooler Master Seidon 120V 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler

Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard

Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory

Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card

BitFenix Prodigy (White) Mini ITX Tower Case

Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer

Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)
 

ricki42

Member
I'm going to be building my first PC for video games/art works/ and a little bit of video editing. I was wondering if this would be a good set up for that:
CPU: i7 4770K 4C/8T
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H
Graphics: AMD R9 280X 3GB
SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB
Storage: 2TB HDD
Power Supply: BP550 Plus 550W
Soundcard: Xonar DGX
Case: - CM N400
Optical Driver: SATA DVD Burner 20p

RAM?
Also, it's probably a good idea to add a CPU cooler so you can overclock if you want to. The Hyper 212 Evo is fairly cheap and does a decent job, if you want a bit better performance, the Noctua NH-D14 is also good.
 

kharma45

Member

If they're all about the same price I'd get the G-750. Best quality one and 750w is plenty of power for almost any dual GPU set up.

The M12II's are decent units too, you'd not go wrong with them either.
 
If they're all about the same price I'd get the G-750. Best quality one and 750w is plenty of power for almost any dual GPU set up.

The M12II's are decent units too, you'd not go wrong with them either.

Yeah the G-750 and the 850W M12II are exactly the same price in my local store. The 750W M12II is like $7 cheaper. Thank you!
 

RGM79

Member
Yeah, I'd be nervous to use the PSU again, even though the I've seen people mentioning that there's a problem with the case too. Could you suggest the remaining parts that'd be right for the build that i mentioned in the original post? I definitely want the GTX 970 as well as the i5-4690. Then I can re-use the 256GB Samsung SSD I already purchased. Is my G.Skill ram compatible with whatever motherboard I upgrade to? I'd appreciate some help picking the heat sink and PSU as well. Thanks :)

You can reuse the SSD, hard drive, and the RAM. You'll end up with a extremely good PC if you spend $1300, but you can easily get away with less. Do you have any other requirements like tower size (compact or regular tower)? Air or water cooling?

$1000 build - i5 4690K, GTX 970, water cooling

$1300 build - i7 4790K, GTX 980, air cooling
 

Moobabe

Member
Wit's end.

I bought an R9 280 to replace my old ATI card. i was having a fair amount of BSOD (all graphics related) so I bit the bullet and bought it.

I uninstalled old drivers, cleared all that stuff off and installed the new card and update to the latest drivers. I turned the resolution up to 1920x1080 to find a bunch of horizontal lines across my monitor - but ONLY at that resolution. Also now I'm running on the in built graphics (at the same resolution) with no lines - leading me to believe it's an ATI/graphics/driver error.

I'm still having occasional lockups, though the BSOD has subsided. I turn my PC on today to find error code 31 - telling me that my PC isn't recognising my card, or that there's been a driver problem.

I'm on the verge of sending the card back, clearing any and all ATI shit off my PC and going nvidia. But before I do - can anyone tell me why I shouldn't? Or does all of this point to graphics and driver issues?
 

appaws

Banned
Ok. Would this work for my Steam Machine aka plug this on TV instead of monitor to play 1080p max out settings?

http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/partlist/

$1499.85

Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor

Cooler Master Seidon 120V 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler

Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard

Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory

Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card

BitFenix Prodigy (White) Mini ITX Tower Case

Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer

Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)

Go back to the PSU I suggested to you on the previous page, or choose a fully modular one. You really want fully modular instead of semi-modular in a small form factor build.

I always stick to low profile RAM. but I suppose it makes less difference if you are using an AIO instead of an air cooler.

Otherwise I think that will be a pretty kick ass machine for you.
 

The Llama

Member
Wit's end.

I bought an R9 280 to replace my old ATI card. i was having a fair amount of BSOD (all graphics related) so I bit the bullet and bought it.

I uninstalled old drivers, cleared all that stuff off and installed the new card and update to the latest drivers. I turned the resolution up to 1920x1080 to find a bunch of horizontal lines across my monitor - but ONLY at that resolution. Also now I'm running on the in built graphics (at the same resolution) with no lines - leading me to believe it's an ATI/graphics/driver error.

I'm still having occasional lockups, though the BSOD has subsided. I turn my PC on today to find error code 31 - telling me that my PC isn't recognising my card, or that there's been a driver problem.

I'm on the verge of sending the card back, clearing any and all ATI shit off my PC and going nvidia. But before I do - can anyone tell me why I shouldn't? Or does all of this point to graphics and driver issues?

Yeah, honestly at this point it just seems like the AMD drivers aren't playing nice with your system. I guess it COULD be some kind of weird mobo issue, but that seems unlikely. Do you have more than 1 PCI-E slot? I'd just try the card in another slot just to make sure. But yeah I'd just go nVidia at this point because clearly somethings up.
 

appaws

Banned
Ok guys, I really need some help with this stuff as this would be my first new rig after 6 years. I'm trying to get the best possible components that'll last me 4-5 years ( minus GPU and RAM which i will upgrade I'm sure). Anyway,

Your Current Specs: N/A

Budget: $2500 , Canada . (preferably close to 2200-2300)

Main Use: 1. Gaming (will be my main gaming machine, so I'll be playing all future and current releases on it). 2. Emulation (PS2) 3. Streaming games 4. General Use

Monitor Resolution: Currently 1080p but plan on downsampling.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
Games: Crysis franchise, Witcher Franchise, Skyrim, Bioshock franchise, Metro Series (pretty much most current releases and future games).

Looking to reuse any parts? Only my current monitor. I dont think I'll need a optical drive (can always get that later) but I do need a keyboard and mouse.

When will you build?: By the end of this month.

Will you be overclocking?: Yes (not something extreme though, maybe 10-15% increase).


Just a small note. I am not great at building PCs and dont have any intention of dealing with DOAs. So i'll be going with NCIX's PC assembly option (not included in budget). Which means that all my parts will have to be from NCIX or at least a majority of core parts. The 'smoky' build in the first post is out of my budget so maybe a little toned down version of that would work?

Wow. You can build a killer machine for that. So, figuring that is about $2200 USA dollars, you could do something like this:

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yM6pFT
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yM6pFT/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Swiftech H240-X 90.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($169.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII FORMULA ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($306.55 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($203.20 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Red 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($349.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($349.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 780T ATX Full Tower Case ($174.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $2133.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-09 13:33 EST-0500

You will be the envy of your friends and most gaffers.

I threw the 2TB red in there as more of a long-term storage thing, while you would put your OS and games on the SSD. The case is of course a personal taste thing. I think the new 780T is pretty bad ass, but an Enthoo case or something like that would work fine of course.

As for the CPU cooler, watch this video of the destruction it rains down on other AIO CPU coolers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYKdKVxbnp8&list=UUCcDWx7QLF_L4D7TNrsljJA
 

LilJoka

Member
Go back to the PSU I suggested to you on the previous page, or choose a fully modular one. You really want fully modular instead of semi-modular in a small form factor build.

I always stick to low profile RAM. but I suppose it makes less difference if you are using an AIO instead of an air cooler.

Otherwise I think that will be a pretty kick ass machine for you.

This case is pretty big tbh, they got an Matx board in the phenom with the same dimensions. I built one for a mate with a Corsair TX650 non modular and there is a cable management hole next the PSU where I dumped all the cables that weren't being used.

Hybrid modular is fine since you are going to use CPU and ATX power regardless. But yeah this case is not really small form factor imo. Node 304 is a lot better since it can hold 4HDD plus cram an SSD in there without issues and a full length GPU. Node has front intake and exhaust so has better airflow too. Mates GTX 970 hit 70c easily whereas mine sits at around 66c in the Node all fans at minimum speeds.

Node is also easier to clean on the exterior but a lot more pain to work in!
 
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