If it's not a bumpy ride, it'll probably be fine. Just lay the computer down with the motherboard facing up, and obviously, secure it so it's not sliding around in the trunk. I guess theoretically the parts to be worried about are hard drives (some don't take impacts and shocks well, SSDs don't suffer from this) and maybe the graphics card if it's rather large (circuit board flex).
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Thanks for the help.
I'll probably just skip out on getting more ram or a new cooler, get the new case, but invest in some quieter fans. I liked having a bunch of fans in the Anetc, but that shit was loud.
Professor Lich
Member
So going over the gathered list, I've made a slight custom build for myself. Any thoughts?
Few questions for you guys;
PartPicker takes things like sizes into account? The list mentions something like that and I don't want to have an issue like that come up.
Also, what are the chances prices fluctuate? I know rebates come and go, but I'm thinking about waiting a month before getting stuff, does that make a major difference?
Also, I went for the 980 over the 970 since I figured that'd be better for the long haul, but this is technically 200 over my ideal budget. Would I be alright dropping the card and saving money or is the extra 200 worth it?
Any help is appreciated!
Few questions for you guys;
PartPicker takes things like sizes into account? The list mentions something like that and I don't want to have an issue like that come up.
Also, what are the chances prices fluctuate? I know rebates come and go, but I'm thinking about waiting a month before getting stuff, does that make a major difference?
Also, I went for the 980 over the 970 since I figured that'd be better for the long haul, but this is technically 200 over my ideal budget. Would I be alright dropping the card and saving money or is the extra 200 worth it?
Any help is appreciated!
You have a micro-ATX board in a full tower case. Were you planning to go mATX or ATX?
Low-profile RAM is better with that cooler.
As for price fluctuations, just keep an eye on sales. Newegg almost always has some PSU and RAM on sale, just wait for one that fits your requirements.
A time has come to get my first ever not pre-build pc and I have some questions 
.
I'm an Architecture student and I still use my Pentium 4 based computer from 2006, you can guess how well it works with AutoCAD, not to mention the awesome performance in SketchUP or other 3d modeling programs, I won't even talk about rendering or gaming capabilities (dying Geforce 7300 GT - it even chokes on CS:Source now) because I will get depressed.
What I will be using the new PC for: 2d and 3d AutoCAD, SketchUP + Vray, some 3Dsmax, photo retouching in Lightroom, Photoshop and Capture One Pro, maybe some light video editing, graphic design in Photoshop and Illustrator, gaming.
What I plan upgrading later (next 1-2 years): The CPU - to an unlocked i5, double the RAM, maybe SSD, getting a second monitor.
BUILD:
CPU Intel Pentium G3258
CPU Cooler SilentiumPC Fera 2
MOBO MSI Z97-G43 GAMING
GPU Sapphire Radeon R9 280 DUAL-X 3GB DDR5
RAM 1xGoodRam DDR3 8GB 1600MHz CL10
HDD Western Digital Caviar Blue, 3.5'', 1TB
PSU Corsair CX Series 500W ATX, Modular, 80 Plus Bronze
CASE Corsair Carbide Series 200R
Total: ~2400 PLN (718 USD)
The questions:
I can't go over the 720 USD/2500 PLN mark and I still have to get an operating system, a decent keyboard and mouse and a monitor. I chose the G3258 because of financial reasons and the OC capabilities.
For the monitor I was thinking about a Dell U2414H or the Asus VG248QE listed in the OP.
I appreciate all suggestions and help as I'm new to pc building and optimizing the specs.
.I'm an Architecture student and I still use my Pentium 4 based computer from 2006, you can guess how well it works with AutoCAD, not to mention the awesome performance in SketchUP or other 3d modeling programs, I won't even talk about rendering or gaming capabilities (dying Geforce 7300 GT - it even chokes on CS:Source now) because I will get depressed
.What I will be using the new PC for: 2d and 3d AutoCAD, SketchUP + Vray, some 3Dsmax, photo retouching in Lightroom, Photoshop and Capture One Pro, maybe some light video editing, graphic design in Photoshop and Illustrator, gaming.
What I plan upgrading later (next 1-2 years): The CPU - to an unlocked i5, double the RAM, maybe SSD, getting a second monitor.
BUILD:
CPU Intel Pentium G3258
CPU Cooler SilentiumPC Fera 2
MOBO MSI Z97-G43 GAMING
GPU Sapphire Radeon R9 280 DUAL-X 3GB DDR5
RAM 1xGoodRam DDR3 8GB 1600MHz CL10
HDD Western Digital Caviar Blue, 3.5'', 1TB
PSU Corsair CX Series 500W ATX, Modular, 80 Plus Bronze
CASE Corsair Carbide Series 200R
Total: ~2400 PLN (718 USD)
The questions:
- Will the PSU be enough for the future upgrade?
- I am not sure about the mobo, it's in a good combo deal with the CPU but there are different cheaper ones. I plan on overclocking the CPU. I know the CPU is not amazing for rendering and video editing but I had to go for the best bang for buck and leave myself space for upgrades (CPU Socket).
I can't go over the 720 USD/2500 PLN mark and I still have to get an operating system, a decent keyboard and mouse and a monitor. I chose the G3258 because of financial reasons and the OC capabilities.
For the monitor I was thinking about a Dell U2414H or the Asus VG248QE listed in the OP.
I appreciate all suggestions and help as I'm new to pc building and optimizing the specs.
Quick SSD question if anyone's had similar experience:
Getting a shiny new 1TB drive tomorrow and want to give my old SSD to my sister. Samsung's clone software allows you to go from a mechanical system drive to an SSD, but should I expect any issues with this (Win7)? I know it's better to a clean install, but I really don't have the time to reinstall her entire system.
Getting a shiny new 1TB drive tomorrow and want to give my old SSD to my sister. Samsung's clone software allows you to go from a mechanical system drive to an SSD, but should I expect any issues with this (Win7)? I know it's better to a clean install, but I really don't have the time to reinstall her entire system.
Professor Lich
Member
I'm not sure what that means. I'd be fine with a normal sized board and a full tower. I would figure that it'd be easier to build anyway. I guess when I picked the board, I didn't realize is was micro. I switched out the GENE for a HERO, hope that's an alright choice.
How can I find out if RAM is Low-Profile? I see there are these Patriout Vipers that actually have that in the name, would those be an alright choice?
Cool, good to know! Thanks for all the help.
You can use a mATX board in an ATX tower, I think he just asked because he wanted to make sure you didn't actually want to go with a mATX build. It doesn't really matter in a lot of circumstances, to be honest, but obviously ATX boards have more slots for future expansion (if thats something you want to keep open for the future).
Low profile RAM is kind of hard to explain, but basically they lack the taller heatspreaders. If you just google "low profile RAM" you'll see what I mean. Basically they're "normal" height RAM that will fit under all CPU HSF's.
Professor Lich
Member
Alright, I'll be sure to be on the lookout when I have everything properly budgeted and stuff. Thanks again for all the help / advice guys!
After experiencing the disaster of BF4 performance on my system, I'm wondering if an upgrade to 16gigs of RAM might be a good idea. I'm not planning on upgrading my CPU until it actually means something so maybe an $80 RAM upgrade might be beneficial with the new wave of games?
My current system:
i5 2500k @ 4.2
970
8 gigs RAM
Alternatively, maybe a SSD might be better and with no page file on the system it might prevent the BF4 problems I saw.
The issues I was having with BF4 was despite having 120+fps with everything on high, I'd get frequent freezes where I was assuming it was paging stuff for some stupid reason. My RAM usage during the game was only around 4-5gigs systemwide, VRAM was only 1.5gigs of the 4. CPUs weren't parked and happily sitting around 60-80% usage. GPU usage was fine. It would hitch or freeze completely every 30 seconds or so then "catch back up". This got really bad in the second campaign map where I'd even still hear the sound going. Was like watching a lagging stream on twitch.
I honestly don't care about BF4. Was only trying it with the free gametime but I'm wondering if any other new games might exhibit the same issue. I haven't really played anything "new" recently. No Mordor, evil within, etc. Farcry 4 is next on my list next week.
My current system:
i5 2500k @ 4.2
970
8 gigs RAM
Alternatively, maybe a SSD might be better and with no page file on the system it might prevent the BF4 problems I saw.
The issues I was having with BF4 was despite having 120+fps with everything on high, I'd get frequent freezes where I was assuming it was paging stuff for some stupid reason. My RAM usage during the game was only around 4-5gigs systemwide, VRAM was only 1.5gigs of the 4. CPUs weren't parked and happily sitting around 60-80% usage. GPU usage was fine. It would hitch or freeze completely every 30 seconds or so then "catch back up". This got really bad in the second campaign map where I'd even still hear the sound going. Was like watching a lagging stream on twitch.
I honestly don't care about BF4. Was only trying it with the free gametime but I'm wondering if any other new games might exhibit the same issue. I haven't really played anything "new" recently. No Mordor, evil within, etc. Farcry 4 is next on my list next week.
Probably just BF4. That game was a disaster when it launched, and while tbf it's good now (and I like it quite a bit), it might just not get along with your system.
That said, if you don't own a SSD with that system, get one! The difference is enormous (if you haven't had the pleasure of using one yet).
As The Llama said, you can use a mATX mobo in an ATX tower, but it has fewer expansion slots. On the other hand, that case may be larger than you think (and than you need).
Low-profile basically means that there are no huge heatsinks sticking out above the PCB.
I actually enjoyed the game quite a bit but the stuttering was killing me. I played around with it for a couple hours, doing almost every trick I could find to fix it but no avail. I'm down to either more RAM, or getting Windows 8.1. I suspect Win 7 and some funky paging might be the culprit.
I want an SSD. I really do but it's been a low priority because of its impact to actual gaming and I've been watching the prices just plummet. I don't want one smaller than 512 either so the $200 makes it more than an impulse purchase lol.
2 x 4 GB is better than 1 x 8 GB. But since you say you'll be using it mainly for AutoCAD and graphics, if you can afford 2 x 8GB, it's probably worth it.
Goldenmoney
Member
You might consider going mid tower instead of full tower. I went mid tower for my first build, and I still think it's huge. Here's what I would do if I were you:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-Pro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($140.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($368.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Rosewill 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1328.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-10 11:32 EST-0500
CPU will be a bit more expensive if you don't live near a microcenter. It's a z87 motherboard, but it will work with devil's canyon cpu's. I have the same board and I love it. The RAM I chose is low profile and a pretty decent price. 8GB will be enough for gaming, but you can stick with 16 if you're doing other heavy tasks like video editing. I put 970 because I think it's better price/performance wise, but you could stick with the 980 if you want. 500 watts is enough to power a 970 or 980.
Hey guys, I've got a computer essentially from 2008, and I'm looking to upgrade so I can edit video with the best quality preview setting on in Sony Vegas, use After Effects smoothly, and other video editing related work! Need a little advice, so here we go.
Your Current Specs: Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 2.8Ghz / 4GB / P5QL Pro Motherboard / ATI Radeon HD 3800 / 430 Watt PSU / 123GB SSD for OS, 2 GB 7200 rpm drive for storage
Budget: Less than $400, ideally around $300 (USA) And I'll mention that is the probably the single most important factor for me in whether I upgrade or not. So I'd say this is the most important part to me.
Main Use:
Light Gaming - 3
Gaming - 2
Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 3
Video Editing - 5
Streaming games in HD - 2
3D/Model work (and what program) - 1
General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5
Monitor Resolution: 1280 by 1024 (Two monitors, both at this resolution)
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
- MUST run Sony Vegas, After Effects, and Photoshop very well.
- The grahics card needs to have OpenCL so I can take advantage of GPU rendering in Vegas.
Looking to reuse any parts?:
I want to reuse my case and hard drives. Pretty much everything else needs to go I think.
When will you build?: No deadline, but ready to upgrade now.
Will you be overclocking?: Sure if it saves me money.
Anyway, not sure if this is even doable at that price range, but I imagine anything will be better than my 6 year old computer (which actually still runs great, just doesn't handle what I need all that well)!
Your Current Specs: Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 2.8Ghz / 4GB / P5QL Pro Motherboard / ATI Radeon HD 3800 / 430 Watt PSU / 123GB SSD for OS, 2 GB 7200 rpm drive for storage
Budget: Less than $400, ideally around $300 (USA) And I'll mention that is the probably the single most important factor for me in whether I upgrade or not. So I'd say this is the most important part to me.
Main Use:
Light Gaming - 3
Gaming - 2
Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 3
Video Editing - 5
Streaming games in HD - 2
3D/Model work (and what program) - 1
General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5
Monitor Resolution: 1280 by 1024 (Two monitors, both at this resolution)
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
- MUST run Sony Vegas, After Effects, and Photoshop very well.
- The grahics card needs to have OpenCL so I can take advantage of GPU rendering in Vegas.
Looking to reuse any parts?:
I want to reuse my case and hard drives. Pretty much everything else needs to go I think.
When will you build?: No deadline, but ready to upgrade now.
Will you be overclocking?: Sure if it saves me money.
Anyway, not sure if this is even doable at that price range, but I imagine anything will be better than my 6 year old computer (which actually still runs great, just doesn't handle what I need all that well)!
Professor Lich
Member
Awesome, thanks for taking the time to do this. Best part is that it's under my estimated budget.
Just out of curiosity, how hard would it be to upgrade things with this? I'm trying to be a better PC owner, and I hear it's better to upgrade part by part than start over new. I'd do it now but I think my current rig is too old, 4-5+ years.
paolo11
Member
Planning a PC really takes time most especially on a first timer like myself. Well anyway, please rate my micro ATX Steam Box possible SLI in the future set up:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yFhvNG
Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler Master Seidon 120V 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Gigabyte GA-Z97/MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 MotherBoard
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card
BitFenix Pandora Core MicroATX Mid Tower Case
EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)
External Wifi adaptor
$1600.00 Estimate.
Also, since I got no disc drive in there, how can I install Windows 8.1? Should I buy an external disc drive?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yFhvNG
Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler Master Seidon 120V 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Gigabyte GA-Z97/MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 MotherBoard
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card
BitFenix Pandora Core MicroATX Mid Tower Case
EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)
External Wifi adaptor
$1600.00 Estimate.
Also, since I got no disc drive in there, how can I install Windows 8.1? Should I buy an external disc drive?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Looks very good.
If you have a windows 8.1 key you can make a bootable windows installation USB.
AHA-Lambda
Member
Guys, quick questions (crossposting in Steam thread too):
I want a GTX 970; what's the best GPU manufacturer to buy from Gigabyte, Asus and MSI?
I also bought the Fractal Design case that was recommended earlier and also have a CPU cooler, do I need anything regarding cooling? Does the GPU need cooling?
Also, is this monitor overkill? It's real damn expensive =/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LBZLIXG/
I want a GTX 970; what's the best GPU manufacturer to buy from Gigabyte, Asus and MSI?
I also bought the Fractal Design case that was recommended earlier and also have a CPU cooler, do I need anything regarding cooling? Does the GPU need cooling?
Also, is this monitor overkill? It's real damn expensive =/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LBZLIXG/
paolo11
Member
Nice. How do I do that?
Also, is it true that if you have no internet connection and you boot Windows 8.1, youare unable to use it aka DRM online only thing?
spons
Gold Member
Do you know the required version of OpenCL? NVidia strangely enough is behind the rest of the pack (Intel/AMD). The latter both support 2.0 where NVidia is stuck with 1.1.
You could use something like Rufus on a different computer with a DVD drive. Otherwise, use the Windows 8.1 USB installation tool from Microsoft itself.
The DRM isn't that harsh, you have to activate within 30 days and you'll be reminded about it, other than that there really isn't anything. You have to enter your key before starting the installation though. If you use the wrong kind of key you can't activate (upgrade vs. OEM).
paolo11
Member
I have a question. Let's say I build my new computer, installed my Windows 8.1 using the USB installation tool and activated windows 8.1. Once I activate it, can I use it offline for life?
spons
Gold Member
Theoretically that's possible since you only have to be online when activating the thing. It would be best if you make a local account when installing though. The setup wants you to make an online Microsoft account for logging in to your computer (which is nice if you use OneDrive but apart from that I don't see any reason to do so).
paolo11
Member
And if you don't make a MS account, you can't use Windows 8.1 then, right?
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
I finally received all the parts for my PC so I'm going to start building it today. Aside from the TechReport video linked in the OP, are there any other handy guides/videos I should go over before I start? This is my first time putting together a PC so I want to make sure I do everything properly.
Just take your time, don't be afraid of putting a little force on the CPU to lock it in, and make sure everything is plugged in
You need an account, just like you need an account on every version of Windows. But in Windows 8 there's a distinction between online and offline accounts, mostly for OneDrive integration. You don't need an online account.
spons
Gold Member
I might not have been clear enough in my wording: you don't have to be online after activating. You don't need a Microsoft account. I meant to say that you just have to make a local account during installation, which is an option that comes up later in the setup. They really try to push online accounts but it's not necessary. You'll miss some features like the new apps and OneDrive sync but that's it. You can work with Windows 8.1 offline just fine.
paolo11
Member
I see.
Can I just buy the Windows key to install the OS instead of buying the disc or a disc is necessary?
If you can get the iso of said os on a USB drive sure.
paolo11
Member
By using this?
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media
or using Rufus?
Reformatted and back.
PC feels a little slow - but I do need to update my CPU at some point. Regardless:
From a completely clean Windows install I have updated my brand new R9 280 to the latest drivers. I'm still having feint horizontal lines across the screen.
What's more - when I'm on the in built graphics the image displayed goes to the corner of the screen. When I updated my graphics card and went to 1080p - it doesn't stretch to the corners of the screen. As a result the image isn't as sharp as you would expect 1080p to be.
I could update to the beta drivers, or roll back to a previous one. In truth I'm loathed to roll back - because that's just delaying the problem. Does anyone know why my image isn't hitting the corners of the screen?
I know you said you tried integrated and everything was ok but just for the heck of it, do you have a spare different DVI cable to try?
Are you using a DVI cable? Can you test it with a different cable or monitor? Maybe its one of those thats going bad.
spons
Gold Member
Rufus uses an existing DVD as a source then makes a USB stick, the Microsoft tool uses the internet to download the sources, then writes it directly to USB. Your choice.
I'm fairly certain 1.1 is fine. I came up with this build. My two questions are is my 430 watt power supply sufficient for this, and SSD and a 7200 rpm hard drive?
Also, is the video card bump from a Radeon 3850 to a R7 240 a significant enough bump?
If you got 8.1 I bet your problem would go away. BF4 has quite a few enhancements with 8.1 iirc.
I was using a DVI to HDMI cable and I've swapped it to a standard HDMI cable (my old card didn't have an HDMI output) and still no joy. I have another monitor but it doesn't have an HDMI input.
yeah. From what I was reading, there are some memory management issues with the game and Win 7 that are handled completely different in 8.1 or something along those lines.
On the bright side, when it's not hitching, it runs REAL well on the 970 hah.
If I finally justify a SSD I'll probably get a cheap reddit 8.1 key and give it a shot.
Can you try not using HDMI? No standalone DVI cable?
I'm going to try the beta drivers first (since they've just downloaded.) If there's still no joy I'll try a standard DVI cable.
Naked Snake
Member
Need quick answer, Google search didn't help:
What are the velcro straps that come with the power supply for?
Bought the Seasonic G-750 today and trying to install it now. Never installed a PSU before.
What are the velcro straps that come with the power supply for?
Bought the Seasonic G-750 today and trying to install it now. Never installed a PSU before.
Cable management.
Naked Snake
Member
Oh, I thought that's what the cable ties are for? Thanks!
Ok - swapped to a DVI cable and the image hits the corners of the screen and the lines are gone...
Who knew? I'll monitor the situation for a bit longer to see if I have lock ups or anything of the sort. I'm hoping that that the lockups were somehow related to the first problem as well.
Naked Snake
Member
Another noob question:
I disconnected the HDDs while moving the mb to the larger case. I have two drives configured in RAID-0, but the puzzling thing was they were connected to ports SATA-0 and SATA-2... shouldn't they have been connected to ports 0 and 1? I have one of the early Sandy Bridge motherboards with the faulty SATA controller (I couldn't send them back to Intel cause I live in shit land). I think I remember the faulty ones were the 3gb/s ones (numbered 2 and 3, colored black), and I figured I'll just keep using the 6gb/s blue ports numbered 0 and 1... But how come my drives were connected to different speed ports and were running in RAID-0?
My brain is full of fuck.
I disconnected the HDDs while moving the mb to the larger case. I have two drives configured in RAID-0, but the puzzling thing was they were connected to ports SATA-0 and SATA-2... shouldn't they have been connected to ports 0 and 1? I have one of the early Sandy Bridge motherboards with the faulty SATA controller (I couldn't send them back to Intel cause I live in shit land). I think I remember the faulty ones were the 3gb/s ones (numbered 2 and 3, colored black), and I figured I'll just keep using the 6gb/s blue ports numbered 0 and 1... But how come my drives were connected to different speed ports and were running in RAID-0?
My brain is full of fuck.
Naked Snake
Member
Now I also don't know which drive was connected to which port, am I fucked? Does the order they were plugged in matter?
I forgot how stressful building a PC was, I've only done it once before and that was years ago.
I forgot how stressful building a PC was, I've only done it once before and that was years ago.
You probably set it up that way. You don't need same speed sata ports to run raid. It will run at bottleneck speeds though.
Just look up the documentation of your motherboard for the ports. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out what you need.
Naked Snake
Member
Damn all those years I've been running my drives needlessly bottlenecked?! I'm so mad at myself.
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