FreddieQuell
Member
Real Temp or SpeedFan.
I have speed fan installed, I should be looking at core 0 and core 1 temps right?
Real Temp or SpeedFan.
When I need to start increasing voltage, what size increments should I be making? Also, when I'm testing for stability am I just looking for crashes?
Alright, what are ok temperatures? And is say the prime95 blend test a good way to check stability?
What is the difference between the CoolerMaster Hyper 212X and Evo versions? Do you guys think they are good enough or are there any better fan based cooling solutions?
I thought maybe I'd wait with the new cooler because I realized I will need to take everything out of the case again, so I was thinking about getting new case and the cooler in a few months but playing Dragon Age 2 my CPU reaches 80C.. prefer to do it now
You could set the page file to be on a different drive if there's one. The sites I pulled the solutions from mentioned that 1GB page file was already too small. Try 1.5~2GB.
Any noob tips on applying thermal paste on CPU? CPU cooler is Cooler Master Seidon 120m.
Pea sized in the middle, let the heatsink spread it.
Supposedly the X has slightly better performance than the Evo
Whether either is good enough depends on what you want and how much you want to pay. I replaced my Evo with a Noctua NH-D14, and the temps went down by at least 10C so I could overclock a bit more.
Depending on your case, you might not have to disassemble everything. It depends on how big the cutout in the motherboard tray is. If it's big enough to reach the cooler backplate, you can just leave everything in the case. That's what I did when I replaced the cooler, just took out the GPU and RAM to have more space.
I'm not looking to do OC any time soon, the problem is I get higher temperatures than usual with my CPU for some reason, so I want to get a cooler that will help deal with that.
I don't mind investing more, the question is will the Hyper 212X be good enough to get me temperatures to where they need to be
I didn't really understand your point about the case and the backplate tho.. I thought the backplate was also supposed to support the extra weight of these coolers?
Can you tell me if I'll need an to use a backplate or not?
Antec 900
GIGABYTE Z97X-GAMING 7
Can anyone offer a second opinion on the extreme build on this site?
http://www.build-gaming-computers.com/high-end-gaming-computer.html
Would I be good if I follow everything on that list or are there better parts I can switch out?
Quick and probably weird question: Is it possible to lock framerates to a decimal value? I overclocked my monitor to 75hz and would like to lock the framerate of some games to 37.5fps instead of the usual 60hz 30fps setup. If not, should I lock the framerate at 38 or 37fps for best results?
Don't think so... Can you change your monitor to 74 or 76 hz?
Without a doubt it is a very high end build.
IMO, that case is terrible and ugly. I would switch it out with something like a Corsair 780T or one of the Phanteks cases.
You don't really need to spend that much on the motherboard, although it is a really good one. You could go down to a lower priced but still fully featured board from Asus or another of the good companies. There is no real performance delta between motherboards these days. It is all features and looks.
You should make sure you get low-profile RAM so there are no clearance issues with that air cooler.
Unless you are really going to be watching Blu-rays on it...I would save the $$$ and get rid of that optical drive. It is unnecessary. Put that $60 towards maybe a bigger SSD.
Is there much of a difference between the Gigabyte GA-Z97X UD3H and the UD5H?
If it's just the extra USB 3.0 slots, I'd rather save my money and get the UD3H
How is this guys
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD FX-8320E 3.2GHz 8-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($93.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 730 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Micro Center)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.70 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 300R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case ($77.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Micro Center)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($82.79 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1198.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-23 16:15 EST-0500
The sticks that are sold in a set have been tested together to ensure that they work well together. Since this is DDR4, I guess you are on X99 and thus quad-channel. Getting a set of 4x4 GB ensures that you can advantage of that. The 2x(2x4) GB may still work well together, though.
I thought it wasn't a good idea to mix different kinds of ram? Let's say I do this. What settings would I use in the BIOS? Would I essentially just use slower timings for my current ram?
And since I was at the bottom of the page, here's my original post:
Yes, you only need one for the OS. it's not that each drive needs one, but that the OS just needs a space to do memory swap work.Really? You only have to have one page file between all your drives?
YYou can compare the diffrences on the manufacturer's website. I don't know where you are going to be buying the motherboard, but in the US, the UD3H is $125 and the UD5H is $150, however the UD5H also has a $20 mail in rebate, so if you don't mind that sort of thing, $130 makes it a very good deal.Is there much of a difference between the Gigabyte GA-Z97X UD3H and the UD5H?
If it's just the extra USB 3.0 slots, I'd rather save my money and get the UD3H
There's a very high chance that they will work just fine. It's the exact same product, rated for the exact same speed and memory timing. If they don't work together but work separately in the same motherboard, then you could even invoke warranty on the product and get a replacement.How high are the chances of them not working correctly when they are exactly the same RAM? I've already bought the RAM so I cant really do anything right now. I guess returning them is an option.
How is this guys
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD FX-8320E 3.2GHz 8-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($93.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 730 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Micro Center)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.70 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 300R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case ($77.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Micro Center)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($82.79 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1198.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-23 16:15 EST-0500
Hey guys, quick question regarding a usage case and appropriate requirements, particularly because I've never built for this scenario before.
I have a strong primary PC. I want to build a mini ITX support machine to stick in the living room and hook up to my television.
Most use cases for this are standard HTPC things, light RetroArch, BluRay playback, streaming content from my server, etc.
But I want to accomplish two things with this that are slightly different from standard.
- I want to use the machine to stream via Steam In Home Streaming from my primary PC.
- I want to capture content from my consoles (also hooked up in the living room) for both recording and streaming to twitch/hitbox. Preferablly at 1080p60, so that rules out some of the USB options.
Now, the capture device and so on along with the mini ITX requirement means that'll eat my PCI-E slot and I'll be without a video card.
My question is if something like an i3 4130 with onboard video would be able to handle the streaming and capturing, or am I better off going with something like an i5 and a 750ti and then using a USB solution for the capture device?
How high are the chances of them not working correctly when they are exactly the same RAM? I've already bought the RAM so I cant really do anything right now. I guess returning them is an option.
How is this guys
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD FX-8320E 3.2GHz 8-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($93.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 730 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Micro Center)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.70 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 300R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case ($77.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Micro Center)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($82.79 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1198.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-23 16:15 EST-0500
How is this guys
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD FX-8320E 3.2GHz 8-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($93.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 730 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Micro Center)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.70 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 300R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case ($77.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Micro Center)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($82.79 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1198.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-23 16:15 EST-0500
So a little update on my progress. I have my g3258 at 4.7Ghz at 1.323v and ~65C at load, with about a 15 min test so far.
I'm trying to dial back the voltage a bit (going from 1.323 to 1.321) but it doesn't seem like my change in the bios is being reflected in cpuz. Anyone have any ideas why that might be?
Normal, you may not see the impact in CPUz, but its working, trust it. The small increments can be hard to detect due to things like Load Line Calibration which reactivly increase Vcore during load scenarios. The strength of the load line calibration means that certain Vcore "levels" just tend not to be what you want it to exactly do.
If you decrease by another notch of Vcore you may see the impact, but it may end up being lower than expected.
You can compare the diffrences on the manufacturer's website.[/url] I don't know where you are going to be buying the motherboard, but in the US, the UD3H is $125 and the UD5H is $150, however the UD5H also has a $20 mail in rebate, so if you don't mind that sort of thing, $130 makes it a very good deal.
And just to add on to this, just IMO but if you're sort of relying on load line calibration to increase the Vcore a bit, your voltage is probably a bit too low. Others may disagree, but I'm a "better safe than sorry" type.
So... the Alienware Alpha.
Looked at my options for building a pc, bearing in mind I've never done that before, Is this my best option for a:
Low power consumption
Small form factor,
Plays current gen games as well as/better than my xbox one or ps4.
Will use it a lot for keeping it on and as my DLNA server for devices across my house.
Was thinking of the £700 model. So thats my budget. £700
Alienware Alpha
£699.00
4th Generation Intel® Core™ i7 Processor
Windows 8.1
8GB Memory
2TB Hard Drive
Low power consumption - Yes
Small form factor - Yes
Plays current gen games as well as/better than my xbox one or ps4. - No GTX 860M is pretty rubbish - Laptop GPU. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hID4TNtJ8U
Will use it a lot for keeping it on and as my DLNA server for devices across my house. - Yes
Also 5400rpm data drive not really ideal. CPU overkill for that GPU, really the base spec CPU in the top spec choice would make no difference to gaming performance.
So what are my alternatives? Can you help me out please 😊
So what are my alternatives? Can you help me out please 😊
Thanks, will definitely switch the case for the black and red 780T and have consoles that can run bluray so I will be allocating that money elsewhere. As for the board and ram what would you recommended?
You'll need an i5 with a "k" at the end if you want to overclock the CPU, IIRC. And make sure that the motherboard supports it natively.
That's not really recommended anymore.Now I was under the impression the "K' meant the multiplier was unlocked which is what you need for much higher overclocks. Can still increase the base clock while leavig the multiplier the same like I did on my i5 760?