I had a problem like that and basically had to reinstall my OS. I forget what caused it exactly.
"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
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I had a problem like that and basically had to reinstall my OS. I forget what caused it exactly.
I have the same cooler, case is a Fractal Design R4. I mounted the cooler with the motherboard in the case. It was easier to mount the backplate that way, and I just laid the case on its side to mount the cooler from above.
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
So which one do I keep...?
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Where is that? ^
theSlacker
Member
Hard choice. Just send them both out to me and I'll do some testing for you imo.
Moral Panic
Member
My next monitor is definitely ultrawide. I hear the LG's can have pretty bad backlight bleed though.
Sky lake is likely to come out mid 2016 if we expect broadwell desktop to hit summer 2015.
And if you look at CPU history, sany bridge to ivy to haswell/haswell refresh has been very incremental, like 10% and literally no difference for games.
Be less worried about CPU lineup, look for GPU line ups, and now is a great time to make a GTX 970 build.
FreddieQuell
Member
Alright, I'll keep that in mind. The final parts just came in so I'm going to start putting it together here in a minute
Damn it, I forgot that broadwell was the next iteration
Guess in that case I might as well go for that 5820K/GTX970 build...
BrokenFiction
Member
Can I get a bit of advice?
I've got a PC that's getting slightly long in the tooth, not too bad, but I'd like to upgrade a little.
CPU: Phenom II X4 965 Black AM3 3.4Ghz
Mobo: Gigabyte AMD AM3 6 Core MotherBoard GA-880GM-UD2H
Video card: XFX ATI Radeon HD6870 1GB DDR5
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws-X F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL - 8GB : 2x4 GB - DIMM 240-pin - DDR3 - 1333 MHz / PC3-10666 - CL9
Power: Cooler Master GX Series 650W
I've also got a 256GB Crucial SSD C300 I haven't yet installed.
My big questions are:
1) Is it worth it to go to 16GB RAM, keeping the same mobo? Would it help with gaming performance?
2) Is there anything I can do, faster CPU-wise, without changing the mobo?
3) The video card obviously is old, thinking about a R9 280 or 290 - would the power supply hold up? Would the AM3 on the mobo give me the speed increase I'm hoping for?
Thanks!
I've got a PC that's getting slightly long in the tooth, not too bad, but I'd like to upgrade a little.
CPU: Phenom II X4 965 Black AM3 3.4Ghz
Mobo: Gigabyte AMD AM3 6 Core MotherBoard GA-880GM-UD2H
Video card: XFX ATI Radeon HD6870 1GB DDR5
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws-X F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL - 8GB : 2x4 GB - DIMM 240-pin - DDR3 - 1333 MHz / PC3-10666 - CL9
Power: Cooler Master GX Series 650W
I've also got a 256GB Crucial SSD C300 I haven't yet installed.
My big questions are:
1) Is it worth it to go to 16GB RAM, keeping the same mobo? Would it help with gaming performance?
2) Is there anything I can do, faster CPU-wise, without changing the mobo?
3) The video card obviously is old, thinking about a R9 280 or 290 - would the power supply hold up? Would the AM3 on the mobo give me the speed increase I'm hoping for?
Thanks!
phxxBullet
Banned
1) 8 is enough for gaming
2) I got the Phenom II 965 too, never tried to OC it, but it could help you out a bit.
3) Sure, a 280 / 280x won't be a problem at all, and even a 290/290x should leave some headroom left for OC.
Damn it, I forgot that broadwell was the next iteration
Guess in that case I might as well go for that 5820K/GTX970 build...
If you plan to stick to single GPU, which i highly advise, save your money and go for the 4790k. If you are set to SLI in the future, then 5820K is ok, although it does have some limitation on PCIE lanes compared to 5930k, it shouldnt effect at PCIE 3.0 bandwidths and 2 GPUs.
This might be a better use of your money:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£162.18 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: MSI H97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£63.56 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£61.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£51.00 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 290 4GB DirectCU II Video Card (£209.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£30.36 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£35.82 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£69.29 @ Aria PC)
Monitor: Asus VS247H-P 23.6" Monitor (£113.09 @ Scan.co.uk)
Keyboard: Corsair Raptor K30 Wired Gaming Keyboard (£34.99 @ Amazon UK)
Mouse: Cooler Master CM Storm Xornet Wired Optical Mouse (£15.03 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £847.30
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-25 20:12 BST+0100
A few notes:
- I've included an Operating System in this as yours was missing one, and you wanted the entire setup.
- If your main use is gaming, I would strongly recommend going for an overclocking setup (i.e. the 4690K, cooler and Z97 board). Even if you don't overclock now, it will increase longevity in the future when you can overclock then to get a boost rather than spend further money.
- By getting a smaller form factor case and spending less on a PSU, you can fit a better graphics card in, further increasing longevity. In this case I've put in a Radeon R9 290, but you could fit a GeForce GTX 970 in your budget if you wished.
Soodanim
Member
Did a format in the end, thanks for the push. Well, not a complete format, but whatever Windows calls its "Start again" feature. Fallout works, thankfully. I think I'll buy a 360 controller to avoid messing round with driver masks and whatnot.
Sorry, just caught this post.
Nothing was sealed, there was some crappy celotape closing the box. The GPU box!
No wrapping but the box was okay iirc so I don't think it was the driver. I took pictures and sent it to them and they were fine with me returning it.
Yeah I think thats what I had to go. Luckily everything has been fine since.
Agreed about the 360 controller though. I just use one instead of a PS3/4 controller because it "just works" with everything.
The Dutch Slayer
Member
So yeah I really do need a new pc mine is almost 5 years old and just can't handle new stuff anymore.
Looking at a full new build max budget is 1500 euro.
Now I have been building my own pc for about 12 years now so most of the stuff I know.
But I did have a question what is that best way to see how much PSU/Power you really need and what is overkill.
How do you determent that in a way that is easy to understand?
Looking at a full new build max budget is 1500 euro.
Now I have been building my own pc for about 12 years now so most of the stuff I know.
But I did have a question what is that best way to see how much PSU/Power you really need and what is overkill.
How do you determent that in a way that is easy to understand?
Are you changing the refresh rate using the monitor or in system settings? Set it to 120hz in system settings then choose ULMB. Make sure Gsync is unchecked in NVCP and is not active in the Global profile. What drivers are you using?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
- CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K 4,0 GHz LGA1150
- Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII RANGER Intel Z97 LGA 1150
- Memory: Kingston HyperX FURY Black 16 GB KIT (2 x 8 GB)
- Storage:
Seagate Barracuda 3 TB 64 MB 7200 RPM 3.5" SATA IIISamsung 840 EVO SSD 250 GB 2.5" SATA3 - Video Card: Asus STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5 GTX 970 O.C. DIRECTCU
- Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
- Power Supply: Corsair CX850M V2 CX-sarjan 850
Total: 1570 euros.
I am in Helsinki, Finland. Could you guys tell me what you think?
Also I would love to have some tips about shops here in Finland. As these are listed in Verkkokauppa and it is kind of expensive. So if anyone has any tips about buying these in Finland, I would love to hear it.
Thanks for the input. I want to go higher just for future-proof, SLI etc. Could you recommend me a good PSU out of these ones?
http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/catalog/298c/Virtalahteet-ATX?s=price&o=A&l=100
I'd go for a smaller (650W would be fine) but higher quality power supply. Thats it though.
FreddieQuell
Member
Well, looks like I need some help. I hooked everything up and turned it on, and I didn't get anything on my monitor. Only sign of life is the fans spinning.
Anyone have any ideas on stupid things I might have missed? Feel free to ask questions to get some more information.
Anyone have any ideas on stupid things I might have missed? Feel free to ask questions to get some more information.
What fans are spinning, just to make sure? All of them? CPU, GPU, and case? You made sure to connect all the necessary power cables, right?
If you have onboard graphics try plugging into that first (Mobo VGA connection vs GPU).
Soodanim
Member
Edit: I'm almost certain it has something to do with the keyboard sleeping in some way. because the Number Lock light goes off for a split second when it happens.
Edit2: Fixed it - power saving > USB. Stupid thing.
Edit 3: I haven't fixed it. This is really annoying now. Does anyone have a clue why a keyboard would deactivate after a few seconds, even with keys held?
Final Edit: finally fixed.
I'm having no luck with Google, so I turn to you once again, GAF.
When I'm playing games, I'll be moving around and for some reason a key will stick. It's happened on both W and A, and it's software-side because I hear a Windows sound. I've disabled Mouse/Sticky/Toggle/Filter Keys along with their shortcuts. I've checked keyboard settings too, and there's nothing there.
It's annoying, and the last straw was playing chicken with a train in HL2 and W locking just as I went to strafe to safety.
Keyboard is a Microsoft Wired Keyboard 200 - a standard plug and play keyboard.
Edit 3: I haven't fixed it. This is really annoying now. Does anyone have a clue why a keyboard would deactivate after a few seconds, even with keys held?
Final Edit: finally fixed.
I'm having no luck with Google, so I turn to you once again, GAF.
When I'm playing games, I'll be moving around and for some reason a key will stick. It's happened on both W and A, and it's software-side because I hear a Windows sound. I've disabled Mouse/Sticky/Toggle/Filter Keys along with their shortcuts. I've checked keyboard settings too, and there's nothing there.
It's annoying, and the last straw was playing chicken with a train in HL2 and W locking just as I went to strafe to safety.
Keyboard is a Microsoft Wired Keyboard 200 - a standard plug and play keyboard.
FreddieQuell
Member
All the fans are spinning. And I believe I connected all the power cables. The mobo is just the 8 pin and the ~24 pin, right?
I'm trying to use onboard graphics (g3258), does it need to be VGA? I've tried HDMI and display port.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Nevermind.
Chance Hale
Member
I was doing it in the system settings and disabling gsync via nvcp but I did forget to change it in global settings. Is probably the issue, will check when I get home. Drivers are the ones before the latest set as those broke Alien: Isolation
Does your mobo have any LED's or whatever? Do they come on?
FreddieQuell
Member
I'm using a z97i-plus and there is standby power led that is on.
Smooth Criminal
Member
Thank you for the response, I think I'll take you up on that overclocking suggestion. The estimated wattage on my updated setup is only 277W, probably the lowest I've ever (hypothetically!) built. Should my power supply change as a result? I'm fortunate enough to already have a spare copy of Windows 7 so I'm not looking for an operating system at this time. Would you recommend going for a full tower with this setup?...
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/EoinCheyne/saved/mMy8TW
I currently have a monitor which doubles as my TV and I'm wondering if I could use that as a temporary measure to save a bit of cash. It's a Samsung SyncMaster P2270HD, it is a few years old though... What do you think?
I really do appreciate the help, it's a pretty interesting subject to gain knowledge about but I'm quite ignorant right now!
The Dutch Slayer
Member
My picks for new any suggestions?
I game at 1080p on my tv trough hdmi.
Main focus is fps and details over resolution.
Will be putting more HDD in that I already have.
Power ok? I can do with less?
1716 Euro from various good Dutch webshops.
I game at 1080p on my tv trough hdmi.
Main focus is fps and details over resolution.
Will be putting more HDD in that I already have.
Power ok? I can do with less?
Soodanim
Member
Nope, but I did manage to find a Microsoft link where someone found the fix in the comments. The part I needed was hidden in device manager, so I had to show hidden then USB devices until I found one Windows lets sleep, and disable that setting.
Looking for some guidance/suggestions as I am very out of touch with what is good and what is not (though I have the thread) and I've been waffling back and forth on builds and hesitating to pull the trigger for the past two years. I think we're at a 'stable' point with no imminent forthcoming new tech so I'm probably going to bite soon. I did ask earlier in the thread for suggestions on min specs for emulation and took that into account in my tentative build.
Current Specs: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (2.4 GHz) / 4 GB DDR2-1066 (Speccy reports this clocking at 800... wonder when that happened) / ASUS Maximus Formula (LGA775) / XFX Radeon HD 6870 / Coolmax 650W PSU / Antec Sonata Plus 550 / WD 1 TB Caviar Black
Budget: I'm in Canada, and I'd like to target around CAD$1500, pre-tax/shipping.
Main Use: Light Gaming - 3, Gaming - 4, Emulation - 4, Video Editing - 2, Streaming - 4, General Usage - 5.
Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050 (Acer X223W). Not upgrading currently, but likely will within 2-3y.
Specific Games/Apps: Camelot Unchained, Elite, Star Citizen, Dolphin (emu). Would like to hit at least high settings at native resolution, but happy with supersampling/higher quality. Has to play nice w/ Oculus Rift.
Re-Use Parts: I'm pretty sure all of this will go in the scrapheap and can't be recycled. Maybe the PSU, but I might keep this machine and use it as a server.
Build Deadline: Would like to sit through Black Friday/Boxing Day and purchase early in the new year. Been delaying on this build for 2y.
Overclocking: Yes, eventually. Can delay on parts for this if the funds can be better allocated elsewhere.
Tenative Build: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/espher/saved/BVLp99
I paid about CAD$1400 pre-shipping/taxes for my original rig back in Apr 2008 (slightly different than above specs -- only had 2 GB of memory, had a Geforce 8800 GTS, had a Seagate HD, and had a different PSU. I added more RAM and swapped the HD in 2011, and upgraded the video card and PSU in early 2012. The intent was for that build to last me four to five years with minor updates (which, at the time, I expected to be memory and possibly a PSU) -- it's lasted me six and a half, and I could probably keep going, but the video card is acting up (mostly fan/heatsink issues, and I've already gotten replacement parts from the vendor + tried aftermarket stuff, and the damn thing is unbearable loud), so I'm ready to take the plunge. My target with the new rig would be something that, barring a major tech jump that devs take advantage of, would last for the same four to five years with some minor updating along the way.
I haven't picked anything in the linked sample build, but I am open for recommendations on wireless options (card, built-in, USB adapter) in the event I decide to move this into the living room down the road. I could also axe one of the SATA drives to shave some cash off if needed (I don't have any NAS and was going to just use a second drive as my temporary media storage). Where vendors are concerned, if possible, I would like to avoid NCIX as I got dicked around there when buying the aforementioned Radeon Card to the tune of $60 (+ a $25 giftcard XFX were offering), on a $200 card, but I'll pursue price matches with another vendor or even consider giving NCXI my business if the price difference is tangible.
Thanks in advance.
Current Specs: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (2.4 GHz) / 4 GB DDR2-1066 (Speccy reports this clocking at 800... wonder when that happened) / ASUS Maximus Formula (LGA775) / XFX Radeon HD 6870 / Coolmax 650W PSU / Antec Sonata Plus 550 / WD 1 TB Caviar Black
Budget: I'm in Canada, and I'd like to target around CAD$1500, pre-tax/shipping.
Main Use: Light Gaming - 3, Gaming - 4, Emulation - 4, Video Editing - 2, Streaming - 4, General Usage - 5.
Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050 (Acer X223W). Not upgrading currently, but likely will within 2-3y.
Specific Games/Apps: Camelot Unchained, Elite, Star Citizen, Dolphin (emu). Would like to hit at least high settings at native resolution, but happy with supersampling/higher quality. Has to play nice w/ Oculus Rift.
Re-Use Parts: I'm pretty sure all of this will go in the scrapheap and can't be recycled. Maybe the PSU, but I might keep this machine and use it as a server.
Build Deadline: Would like to sit through Black Friday/Boxing Day and purchase early in the new year. Been delaying on this build for 2y.
Overclocking: Yes, eventually. Can delay on parts for this if the funds can be better allocated elsewhere.
Tenative Build: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/espher/saved/BVLp99
I paid about CAD$1400 pre-shipping/taxes for my original rig back in Apr 2008 (slightly different than above specs -- only had 2 GB of memory, had a Geforce 8800 GTS, had a Seagate HD, and had a different PSU. I added more RAM and swapped the HD in 2011, and upgraded the video card and PSU in early 2012. The intent was for that build to last me four to five years with minor updates (which, at the time, I expected to be memory and possibly a PSU) -- it's lasted me six and a half, and I could probably keep going, but the video card is acting up (mostly fan/heatsink issues, and I've already gotten replacement parts from the vendor + tried aftermarket stuff, and the damn thing is unbearable loud), so I'm ready to take the plunge. My target with the new rig would be something that, barring a major tech jump that devs take advantage of, would last for the same four to five years with some minor updating along the way.
I haven't picked anything in the linked sample build, but I am open for recommendations on wireless options (card, built-in, USB adapter) in the event I decide to move this into the living room down the road. I could also axe one of the SATA drives to shave some cash off if needed (I don't have any NAS and was going to just use a second drive as my temporary media storage). Where vendors are concerned, if possible, I would like to avoid NCIX as I got dicked around there when buying the aforementioned Radeon Card to the tune of $60 (+ a $25 giftcard XFX were offering), on a $200 card, but I'll pursue price matches with another vendor or even consider giving NCXI my business if the price difference is tangible.
Thanks in advance.
I'm using the dame drivers as you then and everything is fine. I bet the gsync setting in the global profile is screwing things up.
SolidSnakeUS
Member
I was just thinking to myself, if I was willing to go SLI (for the money), but don't really have the board for it right now, and would get one card, should I just buy a GTX 980 and then get another later? Is it worth going for the 980?
For SLI or CF, you should do that right at the start. If you buy one card and wait later for another, you run into the issue of why not just get the new faster card or one coming soon instead. As for 980, get it if you want the current fastest card and can afford it.
Chance Hale
Member
Wish it would just automatically disable gsync on when you turn ULMB on but oh well. Especially annoying given 3D settings take up to a minute to become intractable on a first boot. Not sure why the Nvidia Control Panel is so slow when inspector works fine. Went to the control panel to change it and suddenly gsync settings have completely disappeared. Why do you hate me RoG ;-;
Restarting fixed it but it's a bit annoying. Also having an issue where I'm sometimes unable to switch between 60/120/144 modes without restarting. Imagine it's a driver issue if restarting fixes it?
Edit: Turned gsync completely off, in 120Hz mode, 120 hz set in nvidia settings, and vsync off in-game and Fear still is capping to 60(70 in menus) FPS with ULMB which makes no damn sense given how well it runs with gsync on. I just don't understand what is happening.
Edit 2: Well, it works with Dementium II(lol) so I guess Fear and other games just don't like it. Is there a list of what games it works with? Dead Space and Devil May Cry 4 turn it off while starting.
I'd say it depends what you use your computer for. I've got the UM95 (flat version), and it's amazing.
I've been on IPS since 2008 and I couldn't go back to a TN monitor for general usage. Especially since I do web design and color accuracy is important.
The LG is the perfect all-around monitor for me. It handles everything well. But if you'll just be gaming most of the time on your PC the higher refresh rate monitor is a better buy.
Just looking for some second opinions / thoughts on a build. I'm replacing a 6yr old PC build I did a while ago (Intel E8400 lol). I haven't followed CPU/GPU developments since then as much as I used to, so I'm a bit lost. I wouldn't mind going a bit cheaper if I could, but can't really see where given my planned use.
I'll use it 50/50 for gaming (I'm mostly a console player tho) and then photo editing, light video editing. I mean, given what I've been using I feel like anything is going to feel like a massive jump, but I'd like to get a build that lasts for a while too and is a good value.
I already have storage (Samsung 256gb SSD primary & 2 Deskstar 7K3000 3TB drives).
I went with 2x8GB RAM so I could eventually get another 8GB IF it was ever worthwhile, not really saving any money going 4x4GB anyway.
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($107.93 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($158.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($339.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($138.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($62.26 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1237.10
I'll use it 50/50 for gaming (I'm mostly a console player tho) and then photo editing, light video editing. I mean, given what I've been using I feel like anything is going to feel like a massive jump, but I'd like to get a build that lasts for a while too and is a good value.
I already have storage (Samsung 256gb SSD primary & 2 Deskstar 7K3000 3TB drives).
I went with 2x8GB RAM so I could eventually get another 8GB IF it was ever worthwhile, not really saving any money going 4x4GB anyway.
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($107.93 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($158.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($339.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($138.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($62.26 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1237.10
Someone else can give you better advice, but a GTX 760 in an $1100 build would be terrible.
Yeah, I had a GTX 970 in there before and had downgraded to the 760 when I was trying to lower the price, but agree, not worth saving the <$100 between the two. I had the EVGA 04G-P4-2974-KR (that's out of stock everywhere) in there at $339.
I've updated my post to reflect this - sorry if yours seems out of date now. hah.
Hah just seeing it now, no worries.
My only suggestion now would be to make get rid of the optical drive, or at least just drop it down to a DVD drive instead of a bluray drive. I mean, if you really want the bluray drive, get it, but you probably won't need it. And maybe get a slightly more powerful power supply. The one you have will probably be fine, but I'd try to get a 650W just to be safe.
Bucket-o-roadkill
Member
I've got another motherboard, same socket, etc.. How do I go about doing this? What's the best way of scraping off the old thermal paste and am I good to go just booting up to my current ssd, or should I reformat? I was hoping I could put on the new mb drivers and carry on..!
Blu-ray/DVD burner for my video stuff. It still wouldn't get very much use, so I could drop it for now, but that's still only $60. I'll bump it up to a 650W as suggested then (EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W @ $69/49)
DarkoMaledictus
Tier Whore
I personally would wait. The 980 is only 10-15% faster than the year old 290x. Seems like a place holder card, if you're going to spend 500-600$ wait for at least the next wave with 6 or 8 gigs of ram... and cards that can actually do 4k.
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